JM1BL1V75C15491062012 MAZDA Mazda3Touring/GS

The contact owns a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The vehicle was transported from the east to Texas, and the vehicle was bought used. The contact stated that the dashboard was sticky and that a gap was between the instrument panel and cover. The contact stated that a small to medium bubble had started to form. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000. The VIN was not available.

The car leaks gas when the tank is full and if the car is inclined slightly. I've noticed the problem several month ago with an occasional odor but finally saw the gas leaking recently when it was parked on a sloped street.

The brake pedal is soft and sometimes unresponsive unless it is pumped repeatedly. There have been several times where I have been concerned if I would come to a complete stop. I have had both sets of brake pads replaced in the last year, and have on driven 9,000 miles. Two independent service centers diagnosed the problem as a faulty master cylinder. However, upon replacing the master cylinder and doing three brake flushes, and inspecting my brake pads and calipers, the problem persisted and is unresolved. They directed me to order a new ABS module, believing that that is the only other part that could be causing the cars brake problems. This part (BFY1437AZCO) is on backorder until November 2025.

The Seat Lifter on the driver's side seat frame broke, the metal has a clear stress fracture right near the bracket where the frame connects to the rail. This is the same part that was recalled in the 2010 and 2011 Models by Mazda in 2017. NHTSA Campaign No. 17V-082 It causes the driver side seat to change positions while driving creating hazardous conditions and does not appear structurally stable if involved in an accident potentially putting the driver's life at risk.

Our fuel tank is leaking for no reason. Brought it in last year (2024) for state inspections and let them know we smell gas when we park sometimes. They poke around and find nothing, but note there is a faint gas smell and to bring it to the dealer. We take it to Mazda to see if they can fix, they find nothing and charge my wife $250. Fast-forward to a year later, go for the same state inspection and we get failed. Our mechanic says theres a noticeable gas leak from the fuel tank and to take it to Mazda. There is clearly some issue with the fuel tank parts. The car itself only has 77k miles and it is 13 years old.

The contact owns a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated that after refueling the vehicle, there was an abnormal gasoline odor inside and outside the vehicle for the next 5 days, prompting the contact to only fuel the vehicle halfway. The contact observed fuel leaking underneath the vehicle near the fuel tank. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed a failure with the welded fuel tank nipple fuel line connector. The contact stated that the component was cracked along the bottom of the weld. The contact was informed that the fuel tank needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 81,000.

2012 Mazda3i 5dr hatchback. Persistent issue with headlights, both low beam and high beam, as well as interior lighting and other lighting. The headlights flicker for several seconds any time the brake pedal is applied. Interior lighting also flickers when brake pedal is applied. Headlights sometimes flicker when vehicle is decelerating and no brake pedal is applied, most notable when vehicle is traveling downhill. Further, the luminosity (brightness) of the headlights visibly dims, but does not flash, when the vehicle is parked and the brake pedal is applied. A high volume of others report the same issue, including documented complaints. These vehicles are unsafe, defective as designed, and do not conform to FMVSS No. 108. NHTSA must investigate further. Many other owners are not aware of the cause of the issue and attempt to fix it by replacing headlights, alternator, etc. Mazda was aware of issue prior to July 2013, when it issued TSB 01-019/13. This document states, "Some vehicles may exhibit the headlights flickering when the vehicle is decelerating (by applying the brakes) with the headlights on. This concern is caused by inadequate alternator output (controlled by the PCM) when the battery is under a heavy load. To correct the problem, the control logic of the PCM has been changed." This appears to be at best a temporary fix. Bommarito Mazda in Missouri required payment of $199.88 to "diagnose" this problem and address it in the manner prescribed in TSB 01-019/13. This service was not covered under warranty. Service Manager M.D. claimed to have never heard of this issue before and that it would need to be diagnosed, despite being informed by the owner of the precise issue, that others reported experiencing the same issue, and that others reported the issue was addressed by reprogramming the PCM. Immediately following this service, the headlights continued to visibly dim when the vehicle is parked and the brake pedal applied.

The Mazda dealership reported to me the push rod was broken, that it ‘just snapped’. The car was towed by Zaben towing company courtesy of the auto insurance company associated with the vehicle to the Mazda dealership, however the towing company was on its way to another Mazda dealership per their app despite a clear address location given by the purchaser of the auto insurance. I found one of the hubcaps missing and placed in back seat of the Mazda after delivery and the Mazda not parked properly at Mazda dealership. The hubcap was not in back seat prior to the drop off. The clutch snap, as described by Mazda, did not happen while I was driving the vehicle. It was working perfectly fine two days prior to the discovery of collapsed clutch when I was driving around town. The clutch was found not working, collapsed after the car was parked for two days. Also, Texas Mazda dealership recommended another eight hundred dollar worth of work totaling near two thousand dollars yet I have between ninety and ninety six thousand miles on a twenty twelve Mazda three sport sedan. I mainly drive it in the city. The Mazda dealership recommended the valve cover and slave cylinder be replaced as well. They need to clean out air system, ‘bleed system’ too.

Weak braking and spongy brake pedal created near accidents at highway speeds. Brake pedal needs to be pumped to get firmness. But the check engine warning light did not come on, either. So I had mechanics replace front rotors, front disc pads, and bleed/refill system with fresh brake fluid and inspect system for leaks. But spongy brake pedal problem was not fixed. So when I researched the problem on the internet, it appears that it's a systemic, long-time (10 model years or more) safety issue with Mazda that they failed to recall nationwide. Totally irresponsible. Among Mazda owners, after replacing all other brake system components and not solving the spongy brake pedal issue, it turned out to be a faulty ABS System Module, a $2,000 to $3,000 repair at Mazda dealerships.

Car started jerking and on the way home, the car lost all power to the transmission. The check engine light came on as well as the AT and traction lights. Absolutely no power to the transmission. codes P0780 and P0751.

Passenger side door airbag is open

My issue is with computer firmware updates the manufacturer (Mazda) needs to have done occasionally to help w/traction control and other issues, that the consumer is stuck paying for it, I had a check engine light come on and took it to the dealer. The dealer said that the TCM (traction control module)and the PCM (power control module)needed to be updated. And being the car was out of warranty that I was going to be responsible for paying $330. I would think that if a manufacturer decided to make new updates to help with safety and performance that it shouldn’t fall on the consumer as we bought the car thinking they had this stuff already figured out. Like our smart phones when there updates we the consumer don’t pay for the updates to help protect our phones from security issues and other things…. So why is it acceptable for consumers to pay for auto industry’s updates to help with safety.

The dashboard of my 2012 Mazda 3 has separated from the instrument panel causing a gap between them. The dashboard has become very sticky leaving a black sticky film on the surface. This has caused a glare on the windshield making it hard to see at times while driving. There is a letter dated May 2017 from Mazda, Special Service Program (SSP) A9. The letter states that the warranty was extended 7 years (84 months) from the original warranty start date or April 30, 2018, whichever is later, with no milage limitation. As I read it, 7 years of 84 months from 2018 should extend the warranty for repair of replacement through 2025. Mazda refuses to make repairs, or replacement of this equipment that has an impact on the proper function of the airbag system and impairs the driver's vision because of the constant windshield glare. This is an issue. that needs to be addressed as an important safety.

[XXX] covers a safety oriented problem with my car. Jim Ellis Mazda in Marietta refuses to work on my car because it is more than 10 years old. This is a proprietary issue since it deals with the computer system in the car. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Headlight flickering and turns off and on randomly.

The car started to stall, hesitate and even stop completely for no apparent reason. The mechanic first recommended a new ECU/TCU which did not help the problem and in the course of duplicating the problem check engine light has come on for the transmission with problems shifting/sticking in a gear and not returning to first gear. My mechanic has stated that there is a known problem with Mazda3 transmission, and I should reach out to Mazda. They indicate there is no recall, but mechanic provided me TSB reference number 0500814 from a service bulletin. The car is a death trap and I have stalled while driving on the streets and freeway so obviously I can't drive the car. The car is still at the mechanics since parts cannot be found. Please help any way possible. Thank you.

My brake pedal became very spongy and soft after the ABS was activated. The brake pedal has to travel all the way to the floor to stop the vehicle. My rotors, pads and other brake parts are checked by experts and there is not any issue found with other brake parts. Even though the brake system is not working properly, there are no ABS lights on the dashboard. I risk an accident every day. I killed a squirrel because the brake system didn’t work properly. Maybe one day I will die or cause to lose someone’s life because of this braking issue. I started to be affected psychologically. I've read many complaints from Mazda users on forums about this problem. In subsequent investigations, Ford has recalled 600,000 2006-2010 Fusion, Mercury Milan, and Lincoln MKZ midsized cars to fix an ABS problem. The ABS valve reacts with the brake fluid currently used in the vehicles and can significantly slow or stop the action of the ABS valve, leading to braking problems. When I took my car to my mechanic, I just learned these Mazda 3s were equipped with the same ABS Controle Units as these specific Ford models. However, there are no recalls for these Mazda’s. It cannot be a coincidence that the same ABS control module is used and the same problem occurs. It is unacceptable that Mazda did not recall any vehicle while Ford took a step in this regard. This problem needs to be solved urgently before someone dies! This is a big safety issue! All companies using this ABS Controle Unit must Recall!

The contact owned a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked, the contact woke up to the fire department extinguishing a fire in the vehicle. The fire department stated that the fire began under the hood and that the fire was due to the electrical system. The vehicle was deemed totaled by the insurance company. A police report and a fire report were filled out. The vehicle has not been towed yet. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Driver seat rocks back and forth. There was a recall for 2010-2011 models for this exact issue but 2012 and 2013 are not included in the recall. This is an issue for later models and was even an issue for the 2014-2018 as a separate recall was issued for that generation. 2012 and 2013 need to be recalled for the seats rocking back and forth. This is a safety concern.

After topping off my fuel tank at a gas station, fuel begins to leak from the top of the tank. Prior to noticing the leak, I had noticed a strong smell of gas after topping off and driving home. Symptoms include smell of gasoline, and a gasoline puddle on the ground. The fuel appears to be leaking from the top of the fuel tank, running down the side, and dripping onto the ground. Because of other nearby components that generate heat, this is a very dangerous situation that may lead to fires. Other 2012 Mazda 3 owners have experienced the same exact situation. The following threads shows comments from various people that have experienced the issue. The component that seems to have failed is the vent hose which allows gasoline to seep to the exterior of the tank. Fuel leaks are extremely dangerous as sparks, matches, cigarettes, or other heat sources can ignite the fuel leading to a total loss. https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/fuel-leaking-from-gas-tank-area-after-filling-up.236569/ https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/resolved-fuel-leak-by-tank.14228/ Quotes for repair seem to vary with some people claiming up to $900.

driver seat support links are broken and seat rocks back and forth, same as recall for 2010-2011 models

The seat track on the drivers seat has come apart, so now the drivers seat rocks back and forth with every acceleration and brake, and feels like it's about to come off entirely. There was no incident that seemed to cause this, just one day I got in the car and the seat was loose. I took it to the dealership and they confirmed the seat track is coming apart, but there is no recall out for this VIN so I would have to pay $2400 to replace this defective part.

I've only driven my car 54,000 miles in more than 10 years. Yet, I've had an abundance of brake issues. I've had to replaced my brake pads, brake master cylinder, and brake power booster unit. Now, some mechanics are suggesting that I also need to replace my brake rotors and brake calipers. It's ridiculous.

Both front brake rotors fractured while braking, resulting in reduced braking distance and the need for evasive maneuvers to avoid collision. Fracture occurred in the casting, between the hub flange and braking pad surfaces. A photo of one of the rotors is available, but the hardware has been disposed of. Inspection of fracture surfaces shows some local evidence of rust, indicating that the rupture was proceeded by fatigue/corrosion cracking. No other advance warning was available.

This was my first new car and sometimes when I would brake the brake would go all the way down to the floor. It was random so I didn’t really think about it. It’s been happening since the car was new and I searched up the issue and it’s been something common happening to other people. It recently started happening again.

Exactly as described in safety recall "2014-2016 Mazda3 and 2014-2015 Mazda6 Hand-Operated Parking Brake Concern Safety Recall 1217F NHTSA Campaign No. 17V-393" both of the rear caliper parking brakes have corroded and become stuck causing the parking brake to not hold the vehicle in place when engaged. The problem has not been inspected or confirmed by any 3rd parties. I currently have 1 of the calipers that failed but will need to return it for a core charge refund. No error or warnings were presented, but noticed the parking brake becoming less effective and eventually not effective at all over the course of a few months. the passenger side failed first and was replaced July 2021, the driver side failed over early summer 2022 and needs to be replaced now.

The contact owns a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving 70 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently downshifted from 5th gear to 3rd gear with several unknown warning lights illuminated. The vehicle started to slide and the contact depressed the brake pedal and the vehicle came to a stop. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed. The contact referenced NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V072000 (Power Train) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000.

I can be turning left from a full stop and a few times almost went up onto the median seperating traffic. The car doesn't keep straight in it's own lane unless i put a lot of pressure with both hands on steering wheel and that doesn't always keep it straight, it veers left and right going down the road. Tire pressure light keeps coming on. when backing up hear like a grinding sound in passenger front tire. I bought this used at a Ford car dealership in June 2021. thats all i can think of right now. This has happened more than once no just one time.

Headlights flicker when brakes are applied or when slowing down.

The brakes have to be pressed to the floor in order to break. They were not breaking like normal. The ABS module was deemed faulty and replaced.

When driving at night with exterior lights on, when brake and or gas pedal is pressed the exterior lights strobe/flashes. The Mazda dealership has been contacted about this issue and there is a technician service bulletin stating that the ECM needs to be reflashed/programmed. No recall has been set for this issue and the Mazda dealership stated that I would have to pay $265 out of pocket to have the problem fixed. I believe that because it's a problem with there programming or software that the company should have to issue a safety recall and fix the factory defect. I'm currently in the process of filing a lawsuit against Mazda because of this and I have already filed a complaint with the better business bureau for this issue.

Driver seat has become loose and rocks forward in an up and down fashion while driving. Can be rock by hand as well when not sitting in the seat. A prior recall addressed this issue with 2010-2011 Mazda 3's. This is a 2012 that is having the same problem, but the recall does not apply to it. The recall needs to be expanded to included all vehicles experiencing this issue. NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V082 Manufacturer Mazda North American Operations Components SEATS Potential Number of Units Affected 173,859

Dashboard melting and warping causing visibility issues, as well as the dashboard should never be melting. This should be recalled as it is a known and widespread issue.

Brakes became soft. Needed to pump them to stop the vehicle. My mechanic changed pads, rotors and master cylinder. However, it did not fix the problem. I have read several reports of people complaining about the same issue, likely related to a faulty ABS module. Safety issues should be addresses promptly by reputable manufacturers.

The contact owns a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while at a standstill, she heard a popping sound coming from the driver’s side seat resulting in the seat moving and not maintaining an appropriate driving position. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer to be diagnosed. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V082000 (Seats) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 95,000.

my power steering has randomly failed for a second time. It happened once before as I pulled into a store -this time it happened while I was travelling southbound on highway 1 a very curvy road with steep cliffs where the speed limit is 55 so it was very scary when my steering suddenly went to manual steering. Turning the car off and waiting a few minutes seemed to remedy it. I continued to have a check engine light which cleared the next time I turned the car off. The power steering pump is an electric hydraulic pump so no belts involved. No weird noises just sudden scary failure. I researched on Mazda forums and found quite a few others with similar complaints and having spent money on dealers with no resolution. The car has 65k on it. The mfr does not have a change cycle for the fluid and I have verified the fluid clean. I did install a new battery and cleaned the ground on the terminal for the power steering pump as it seemed to help someone else. Mazda of course wants to take it and charge me to diagnose but based on other experiences with the dealer i do not trust them. Here is another person's similar story https://www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/power-steering-failure.108977/#post-1439705

Seat height adjustment lifter link has lost the push nut which retained it to the seat rail. Driver seat, left hand front link.

I was coming up on a car waiting to make a left turn. While attempting to move to the right-hand passing lane, five lights lit up and the power steering went out. The five lights were "Power Steering Malfunction Indicator Light", "TSC/DSC Off Indicator Light", "Security Light", "ABS Warning Light", and "Seatbelt Warning Light" (even though my seat belt was on and buckled). Realizing I could not turn in time, I attempted to stop instead and could not stop in time to avoid striking the other vehicle. There had been no indication of problems with any of the indicated systems prior to this incident. The vehicle is currently in possession of our insurance company, as it was deemed a total loss, and no inspection for defects has been performed.

Passenger airbag off flashing intermittently while driving on roadway

The contact owns a 2012 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving 40 mph, the automatic trans-axle warning light illuminated and the vehicle suddenly stalled. The contact was able to restart the vehicle however, the failure reoccurred for a second time that day and she was unable to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the battery cables had detached. The contact stated that the vehicle was repaired however, the failure persisted. The vehicle was taken back to the same dealer who diagnosed that the transmission control module had failed. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was opened. The approximate failure mileage was 85,598.

The dashboard on my Mazda3 has popped up and is causing me to be distracted while I drive, and I am concerned that this could have an impact on airbag deployment, as the lifted dash provides an opening to the wiring and airbags within. I became aware yesterday that this is an issue that Mazda tried to remedy by extending their warranty in 2017 for my car model. However, I was never notified, and the warranty has now expired. I spoke with Mazda Corporate (call reference # 1-4144339276) and they would not honor the extended warranty to remedy the issue because the time frame has expired. Had I been notified by Mazda and known that this were an issue, I would have had the dash replaced when the warranty was extended. Mazda did not do their due diligence and notify me of their dashboard issue, and denied their failure to notify me when questioned. This places a concern about the practices of Mazda and caring for the safety of their car buyers.

Dashboard is warping creating a gap between the instrument panel and information display. The dashboard was replaced once by the dealer under extended manufacturing warranty. The new dashboard that was installed now have the same issue.

Using my headlamps at night when I break my headlamps begin to flash, as to dim and brighten I took it into the dealership because it was a recall that my Vin number was not part of. They refused to take care of it without a fee. I reported it to Mazda of North America but because the cars older it falls outside of what they would normally do to take care of it. In short, The braking system causes the headlamps to brighten and dim down. I use country Roads, this could become a hazard. Im concerned it could completely go out at some point and leave me in the dark and create an accident

MOTOR CYLINDER #1 LOW COMPRESSION TOOK IT TO MAZDA THEY COULDNT FIGURE IT OUT AND LESS THAN 20 MILES AFTER THE MOTOR THREW A ROD AT 70,001 MILES TOTAL. CYLINDER 1 WALLS WHERE NOT MADE CORRECTLY

THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A MASSIVE VOLTAGE DROP WHEN SLOWING DOWN OR LOWERING SPEED. HAPPENS CONSISTENTLY IN ALL DRIVING CONDITIONS, HIGHWAY/CITY, NIGHTTIME/DAYTIME. THIS LEADS TO ALL INTERIOR LIGHTS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, HEADLIGHTS DIMMING AND FLASHING WHENEVER THE ENGINE SPEED DROPS. THIS OFTEN MEANS AT NIGHTTIME WHEN GOING AROUND CORNERS VISIBILITY IS NEARLY ZERO UNTIL THE LIGHTS COME BACK ON AFTER A FEW SECONDS. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ARE ALL FINE WITH INSPECTION. UPON GOOGLING IT, APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AND SOFTWARE RELATED.

I RECENTLY HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING VISIBILITY ISSUES WITH MY 2012 MAZDA 3 SEDAN. IT STARTED WHEN THE PLASTIC INTERIOR ABOVE THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME "GOOPY" AS IT HEATS UP FROM THE SUN. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE AND HAS LEFT BEHIND A SHINY SURFACE THAT REFLECTS ON THE WINDSHIELD IN FRONT OF MY DRIVING PERIPHERAL. I'VE RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE AND HAVE FOUND RECALLS FOR OTHER YEARS OF MAZDA MAKES/MODELS, BUT NOT MINE. THERE IS NOTHING I CAN DO AND IT'S BECOMING WORSE MAKING IT SO I CAN BARELY SEE OUT MY FRONT WINDSHILD ON BRIGHT, SUNNY DAYS. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS ISSUE CAN BE RESOLVED IN ANYWAY AS IT AFFECTS MY EVERYDAY LIFE AND IS BECOMING MORE AND MORE DANGEROUS TO DRIVE, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE SUN IS AT HIGH NOON. I HAVE ATTACHED SOME PHOTOS TO SHOW HOW THE INTERIOR PANEL HAS BECOME NATURALLY. IT'S CURRENTLY A CLOUDY DAY SO THE GLARE ISSUE IS NOT SHOWCASED AS MUCH. I HAVE TEMPORALLY LAID A TAN CLOTH OVER TO REDUCE SOME OF THE GLARE BECAUSE IT'S LESS SHINNY THAN THE MELTED INTERIOR (WHICH SEEMS TO REDUCE THE GLARE PROBLEM BY 50%). THANK YOU FOR LISTENING AND I HOPE TO HEAR BACK SOON.

THE CLEAR COAT WAS NOT PROPERLY APPLIED DURING MANUFACTURING OF THE VEHICLE LEADING TO EXTENSIVE PAINT LOSS AND CORROSION BEGINNING ON THE ROOF OF THE VEHICLE AND HOOD. EVENTUALLY THE FAILURE OF THE PAINT WILL LEAD TO RUST AND CORROSION OF THE ROOF AND SUPPORT SYSTEM OF THE VEHICLE WHICH CAN CAUSE BODILY HARM IF THE VEHICLE IS INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT.

ON THE DASHBOARD IN THE CENTER FRONT WINDSHIELD AREA, PART OF THE CAR SEEMS TO HAVE COME DETACHED. THERE IS A LARGE GAP ABOVE THE VENTILATION/RADIO AND IT SEEMS TO CONTINUE PULLING FURTHER AWAY. I AM NOT SURE IF IT IS DIRECTLY AFFECTING THE VENTILATION/AIR SYSTEM BUT I WAS HEARING SOME STRANGE NOISES. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A WHILE (APPROX. 3+ YEARS) BUT CONTINUES TOO PROGRESSIVELY WORSEN.

HIGH BEAM LIGHTS BLINK/FLASH WHEN BREAKING LOW BEAM LIGHTS DIM WHEN BREAKING INSTRUMENT LIGHTS DIM SLIGHTLY WHEN BREAKING WITH BOTH CONDITIONS MENTIONED

HEADLAMPS PULSE DURING BRAKING WHILE DECELERATION

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE SEATED IN THE DRIVER'S SEAT, THE CONTACT HEARD AN ABNORMAL SOUND AND BECAME AWARE THAT THE SEAT WAS NO LONGER IN LINE WITH THE STEERING WHEEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CARDINALEWAY MAZDA - PEORIA (8424 W BELL RD, PEORIA, AZ 85382; (623) 738-0755) WHO STATED THAT THE SEAT TRACK AND ADJUSTER NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED DUE TO THE PARTS BEING ON BACK ORDER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 183,000.

AIRBAG RED WARNING LIGHT FLASHING IN DASH, MY VIN IS NOT SHOWING AN AIRBAG RECALL AT THIS TIME.

MY MAZDA3 HAS EXPERIENCED THE SAME MANUAL SEAT LIFTER FAILURE ISSUE AS ADDRESSED IN NHTSA RECALL 17V-082. I WAS INVOLVED IN A REAR END COLLISION ON SEPTEMBER 8, 2020 WHICH CAUSED ME TO EXPERIENCE WHIPLASH DUE TO THE SEAT BECOMING LOOSE. THE COLLISION CENTER FOUND THE SEAT IS MISSING THE PUSH NUTS AND THE LIFT BRACKET HAS BROKEN AT THE WELDS WHICH IS IDENTICAL DUE TO SAFETY ISSUES STATED IN THE ABOVE RECALL. MAZDA STATES THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE FOR THIS VEHICLE BUT I COULD HAVE BEEN SEVERELY INJURED DUE TO THIS. MY CAR WAS GOING SLOWLY BEFORE I WAS HIT FROM BEHIND WHICH PUSHED THE CAR FORWARD ON A STANDARD CITY STREET IN A CONSTRUCTION ZONE. I WAS GOING LESS THAN 5 MILES PER HOUR.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING HER VEHICLE AND THE FRONT CV AXLE COMPLETELY SNAPPED IN HALF. STILL NOT SURE WHAT COULD HAVE POSSIBLY OCCURED BEING THERE IS NO ACCIDENT REPORT ON THIS VEHICLE. PERHAPS THE PART WAS CORRODED OR FAULTY.

WHEN I DRIVE DOWN THE ROAD.MY CAR SPEEDS UP AND I DON'T PRESS ON THE EXCILERATOR ANY HARDER. THE CARS IDOL GOES UP AND DOWN WHEN DRIVING AND AT PARK. THIS HAPPENS ON ALL TYPES OF ROAD WAYS. SOMETIMES IT SPEEDS UP ON ME SO FAST I HAVE TO HIT THE BRAKE WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD.

AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT FLASHES INTERMITTENTLY, DEALERSHIP SAID MY CAR IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE TAKATA AIRBAG RECALL. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT.

SMELL OF FUEL IS VERY NOTICEABLE AFTER FILLING UP THE GAS TANK. FURTHER INVESTIGATION INDICATES THERE IS LEAKING SOMEWHERE NEAR/AROUND THE TANK BUT NOT ON TOP WHERE THE FUEL PUMP IS. IT IS OBSERVED THAT THE LEAK HAPPENS WHEN TANK IS FILLED UP FULL AND MORE SO IF PARKED UPHILL. IF FILLED UP FULL, THE LEAK SEEMS TO STOP IF CAR IS PARKED DOWNHILL. RESEARCH INDICATES SEVERAL OTHER 2012 MAZDA 3 OWNERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE SAME ISSUE. THIS IS QUITE DANGEROUS. FOR A PART THAT IS NOT MOVING OR WEARING OUT, WHETHER THE TANK OR ATTACHED HOSE, TO BREAK FOR A 7-8 YEAR OLD CAR IS UNACCEPTABLE. THIS CAN CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION LEADING TO DEATH.

DASHBOARD IS LIFTING AND ITS SUPPOSE TO BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY FOR REPLACEMENT PER MAZDA. BUT MAZDA DEALERS DECLINE TO FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY CLAIMING THE 10 YEARS ARE UP. THIS IS A LIE. THE VEHICLE IS A 2012. ITS 2020.

WHILE DRIVING I HAD NOTICED THAT EVERY TIME I CAME TO A STOP LIGHT OR A STOP SIGN OR TO EVEN SLOW DOWN BY RELEASING MY FOOT OF THE ACCELERATOR, MY HEADLIGHTS WOULD START TO FLASH. I STARTED TO DIN INTO THE PROBLEM BY DOING RESEARCH ONLINE TO SEE IF IT WAS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH MY VEHICLES MAKE AND MODEL. UPON READING MORE AND MORE INFORMATION I FOUND ON THE ISSUE I WAS HAVING WITH MY CAR. IT ALL SEEMED TO BE LINKED TO AN ALTERNATOR ISSUE THAT MAZDA KNEW ABOUT RELEASED A RECALL ON IT THEN TOOK THE RECALL AWAY. MY CAR IS HAVING THE ISSUE FOR THE RECALL THEY TOOK AWAY. IT POSES A DANGER AND A RISK WHILE DRIVING. IT CAUSES A DISTRACTION TO THE ON COMING TRAFFIC AS WELL AS DISTRACTS THE DRIVER IN FRONT OF YOU. I HAVE HAD CARS BREAK HARD IN FRONT OF ME THINKING I WAS SIGNALING THEM FOR WHATEVER REASON. ONE EARLY MORNING I HAD BEEN DRIVING TO WORK ON THE FREEWAY AND MY WHOLE CAR SEEMED TO HAVE SHUT OFF AND AS SOON AS IT WENT OFF IT CAME BACK ON.

I APPLIED THE BRAKES, AND THE CAR KEPT MOVING FORWARD EVEN THOUGH I WAS PRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL. I PULLED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE BUT THAT DIDN'T STOP THE CAR FROM MOVING FORWARD AND HITTING THE BACK OF THE TRUCK IN FRONT OF ME. I WAS ON A HIGHWAY.

WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT WHEN YOU BRAKE THE HEADLIGHTS DIM SIGNIFICANTLY AND FLICKER UNTIL YOU GO BACK TO THE GAS OR STOP. I NOTICED THIS WHEN I DROVE THE CAR I BOUGHT FOR MY DAUGHTER ONE NIGHT IN OCTOBER 2019.

GAS LEAKING FROM BACK OF FUEL TANK AFTER FILLING IT UP. IT I ONLY FILL UP HALF WAY NO LEAK

POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON, STEERING BECAME IMPOSSIBLE AT FIRST, CHECKED FLUID, AND LINES, ALL WAS OK, THEN STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP, COULD NOT DRIVE ANYMORE. CAR WAS IN MOTION WHEN IT ALL STARTED, ON A PUBLIC ROAD.

A HOT AND HUMID NIGHT WAITING IN LINE AT A DRIVE THROUGH WITH A SLIGHT UP HILL SLOPE, THE TRANSMISSION DID NOT ENGAGE FROM NEUTRAL TO DRIVE. AFTER SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE IT WENT INTO 3RD GEAR WITH AND ENGINE LIGHT, HAZ ROAD AND AT LIGHT. PO751 01/02, PO780 02/02 CODES. TRANSMISSION SHOP STATED: TRANSMISSION SOLENOIDS BAD AND SMELL OF BURNT FLUID. FLUID WAS BROWN, CAR WAS ONE OWNER 233K ..POSSIBLE FLOOD DAMAGED FROM 4 MO EARLIER.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKING CAUSING DIMINISHED VISIBILITY AT NIGHT. THIS IS A KNOW PROBLEM AND SAFETY HAZARD. KNOWN ENOUGH TO HAVE A SERVICE BULLITEN. THIS IS A FACTORY DEFECT CAUSING SAFETY ISSUES THAT MAZDA WANTS CUSTOMERS TO PAY FOR IN ORDER TO BE FIXED. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL AS IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD

MY CAR IS AUTOMATIC, AND I HAD PULLED INTO A PARKING LOT OFF THE STREET IN FRONT OF A STORE, AND WAS TURNING RIGHT INTO THE PARKING SPOT, AND WAS PUTTING ON THE BRAKE, THE CAR SURGED, AND WENT FORWARD, STILL AS I AM PRESSING ON THE BREAK, AND WENT THROUGH A STORE WINDOW. THEN ONCE IT STOPPED INSIDE THE STORE I PUT IT IN PARK, AND STARTED TO TAKE MY FOOT OFF THE BREAK, AND IT STARTED TO MOVE FORWARD, SO I PUT ON THE BREAK AGAIN. THEN TRIED IT AGAIN, TAKING MY FOOT OFF THE BRAKE, AND IT MOVED AGAIN A BIT, AND STOPPED. SO I TURNED OFF THE CAR.

THE FRONT DRIVER SEAT NOW WOBBLES BACKWARD. THE SEAT IS NOT SECURELY IN PLACE, WHICH IS VERY UNSAFE. THE SAME MODEL VEHICLE HAD A RECALL FOR THE 2010-2011 VERSIONS FOR THE SAME ISSUE. THE FOLLOWING LINK SHOWS THAT OTHER 2012 MAZDA 3 OWNERS ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUES HTTP://WWW.CARPROBLEMZOO.COM/MAZDA/MAZDA3/SEATS-PROBLEMS.PHP I HAVE EMAILED MAZDA TODAY ABOUT THE ISSUE AND ARE AWAITING THEIR REPLY, BUT I THINK THIS NEEDS TO BE LOOKED INTO. THE VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY IN THE SHOP FOR A TRANSMISSION ISSUE AT THE MOMENT, IF NEEDED I CAN HAVE THE SHOP TAKE PHOTOS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WAS POPPING OUT OF THE DISPLAY PANELING. THE FAILURE HINDERED THE VISIBILITY OF THE SPEEDOMETER, FUEL GAUGE, AND OIL LEVELS. JOHN HINE TEMECULA MAZDA (42050 DLR DR, TEMECULA, CA 92591, (951) 553-2000) STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 62,000.

WHEN THE VEHICLE SLOWS DOWN OR I HIT THE BRAKES, THE HEADLIGHTS AND INTERIOR LIGHTS FLICKER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR CAMBER WAS SET AT A NEGATIVE ANGLE, WHICH MADE THE REAR TIRES WEAR OUT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ONLY THE INSIDE OF THE REAR TIRES MADE CONTACT WITH THE ROAD AND THE DESIGN WAS SET UP FOR RACING RATHER THAN NORMAL DRIVING. AN UNKNOWN DEALER STATED THAT NOTHING COULD BE DONE ABOUT THE DESIGN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CALLED AND THE CONTACT WAS SUPPOSED TO CALL THEM BACK WITH THE VIN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 15,000. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN.

AT 41K MILES HAD TO HAVE THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY REPLACED BECAUSE THE TIPTRONIC FAILED TO CHANGE GEARS WHEN USING THE "MANUAL" MODE. AT 64K MILES, EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUE (APPROX 3 YEARS AFTER INITIAL REPAIR).

THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY (TIPTRONIC) FAILS TO CHANGE GEARS WHEN USING THE "MANUAL" MODE. VEHICLE HAS 64K MILES. VEHICLE WAS SERVICED FOR SAME ISSUE 3 YEARS PRIOR.

DRIVERS SEAT SNAPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING AND CHAIR FELL BACKWARDS. I SEE A SIMILAR RECALL WAS ISSUED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM IN 2011 MAZDA 3 MODELS. I AM CONCERNED A PART USED IN 2011 WAS USED FOR THIS 2012 CAR. THE ELECTRONIC BASE OF THE CHAIR WORKS, BUT THE SEAT WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE TRANSMISSION SKIPPED GEARS AND THE RPMS ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING. IN ADDITION, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURES OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC CHANGED THE OIL AND DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE TRANSMISSION HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 95,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

HIGH BEAM LIGHTS BLINK/FLASH WHEN BREAKING LOW BEAM LIGHTS DIM WHEN BREAKING INSTRUMENT LIGHTS DIM SLIGHTLY WHEN BREAKING WITH BOTH CONDITIONS MENTIONED. ALSO I HAD THE ALTEERNATOR CHECKED AND IT IS WORKING LIKE IT SHOULD. I FOUND OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD SAME PROBLEM WITH SAME YEAR MAKE AND MODEL. I AM 2ND OWNER THE PERSON WHO BOUGHT IT NEW DIDNT DRIVE IT MUCH AND DIDNT DRIVE IT AT NIGHT SO THEY NEVER KNEW IT HAD ISSUES. THE PEOPLE WITH THE ISSUES WAS ABLE TO GET IT FIXED FREE SINCE THEY BOUGHT IT NEW AND HAD THE ISSUE HAPPEN TO THEM. SEAMS THERE WOULD OF BEEN A RECALL OUT TO HAVE THIS FIXED AND MOST DEALERS KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. BUT NOT THE ONE I TOOK MY CAR TO SINCE IT IS A NEWER DEALER.

HIGH BEAM LIGHTS BLINK/FLASH WHEN BREAKING LOW BEAM LIGHTS DIM WHEN BREAKING INSTRUMENT LIGHTS DIM SLIGHTLY WHEN BREAKING WITH BOTH CONDITIONS MENTIONED

WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT WITH THE LIGHTS ON AND PUTTING ON BRAKES OR SLOWING DOWN, HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS FLICKER AND DIM NOTICEABLY

UPON DOWNSHIFTING OR BRAKING FROM NORMAL DRIVING SPEED THE 2012 MAZDA3 I HEADLIGHTS FLICKER LIKE A STROBE LIGHT CREATING DISTRACTION FOR BOTH THE DRIVER AND OTHER DRIVERS. MAZDA HAS NO RECALLS ON A SOFTWARE UPDATE FOR PDM TO EASILY CORRECT THE PROBLEM. THIS IS ONLY OCCURRING ON SKYACTIVE MODELS

STEERING GETS REALLY STIFF WHEN STATIONARY AND WHEN SPEED IS LESS THAN 5MPH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SEAT BELT FAILED TO RETRACT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO NELSON MAZDA MURFREESBORO (1214 FORTRESS BLVD, MURFREESBORO, TN 37128) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT AN UNKNOWN PART IN THE SEAT BELT RETRACTOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT SHE WOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 91,000.

WHEN DRIVING THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS WILL FLICKER/DIM WHEN I TOUCH THE BRAKES. I AM DRIVING BACK ROADS AND HIGHWAY. NIGHT TIME WITH HEADLIGHTS ON. HAPPENS PRETTY CONSISTENTLY AND IS DISTRACTING AND GREATLY REDUCES MY VIEW OF THE ROAD!! HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR AT LEAST 4 MONTHS. REPLACED THE BATTERY AND STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ACTIVATED, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKERED AND PULSATED WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AOXMOOR MAZDA (7913 SHELBYVILLE RD, LOUISVILLE, KY) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A SOFTWARE MALFUNCTION. THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE WAS UPDATED AND THE FAILURE WAS REMEDIED. THE THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT NO SOLUTION WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNSPECIFIED SPEED, THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO JENKINS MAZDA OF OCALA (352-815-2425, LOCATED AT 1740 SW COLLEGE RD, OCALA, FL 34471) WHERE THE FUEL PUMP AND GAUGE WERE REPLACED. THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED SIX MOTHS LATER. FIVE MONTHS LATER, THE VEHICLE LEAKED FLUID IN THE DRIVEWAY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED AND REPLACED THE DRIVER'S SIDE TRANSMISSION AXLE. SEVEN MONTHS LATER, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE MADE A CLUNKING SOUND AND WAS TOWED TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED AND REPLACED THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES AND OFFERED TO PROVIDE A DISCOUNT TOWARDS THE COST OF A NEW VEHICLE. THE OFFER WAS NOT ACCEPTABLE. THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 31,740.

CODE U0101 DESCRIPTION LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE CODE SCAN DASHBOARD LIGHT

FUEL FILLER LINE LEAK. WHEN GAS TANK IS FULL FUEL LEAKS FROM SMALL WHOLE IN LINE THAT GOES INTO GAS TANK. MY MECHANIC SAYS IT IS WHERE THE LINE IS WELDED TO GAS TANK HAS BROKEN THE MAZDA SERVICE MANAGER TELLS ME IT'S NOT AN ISSUE THAT MAZDA WILL FIX, EVEN THOUGH IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE. MY MECHANIC SAYS THAT THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH THE 2013 MODELS, SO IF THE SAME THING HAPPENS TO A 2012 MODEL WHY IT NOT BE REPAIRED BY MAXDA?

WHEN DRIVING, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER SEVERELY ANYTIME THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED. AT NIGHT, IT LOOKS LIKE I'M FLASHING MY LIGHTS. THIS HAPPENS AT RANDOM TIMES, ANY ROADWAY. WE HAD THE CAR SERVICED AFTER FINDING A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN (SB-01-019-13). THE ISSUE WAS FIXED FOR A FEW MONTHS, BUT HAS RETURNED.

THE LINK CONNECTING THE FRONT LEFT OF THE SEAT SHEARED OFF. IT SOUNDS EXACTLY LIKE THE RECALL FOR THE 2011 MODELS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GEARS SLIPPED INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING IN ANY GEAR. THE MANUFACTURER INDICATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS EXCLUDED FROM WARRANTY CAMPAIGN BULLETIN NUMBER: O5-OO8/16 DUE TO BEING UNDER MILEAGE; HOWEVER, THE STATUTE FOR THE DATE TO RECEIVE SERVICE WAS ALSO EXPIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BYERS MAZDA (2455 BILLINGSLEY RD, COLUMBUS, OH 43235, (614) 792-2455) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE OWNER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 58,000.

DASHBOARD PEELING OFF

THE REAR SHOCKS HAVE AN UPPER ATTACHMENT THAT IS MADE OUT OF ALUMINUM. AFTER ONLY 49000 MILES THE SHOCK MOUNT CORRODED AND BROKE. IT ALSO CAUSED THE SHOCK ROD TO BEND.

AS I WAS ENTERING MY VEHICLE ON A SATURDAY MORNING A METAL PIECE UNDER THE SEAT SNAPPED. THE SEAT WAS NO LONGER STABLE AND I BROUGHT IT TO A MAZDA DEALER A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER TO INSPECT THE ISSUE. THEY PROVIDED ME WITH THE PART NUMBER FOR THE BROKEN PART IN MY VEHICLE. THAT PART NUMBER, BBM4-88-H50A, IS THE SAME ON ALL MAZDA3S FROM 2010-2012. IT IS ALSO THE SAME PART THAT WAS RECALLED ON 2010-2011 MAZDA3S BUT NOT THE 2012 MODEL. THIS PART SHOULD ABSOLUTELY BE RECALLED ON 2012 MODELS SINCE IT IS THE SAME PART AND I AM EVIDENCE THAT THE PART WAS STILL FAULTY ON THE 2012 MODELS. I HAVE ATTACHED 4 PIECES OF EVIDENCE THAT SHOW PROOF OF THE INSPECTION, THE PART THAT WAS BROKEN, THE FACT THAT THE PART WAS THE SAME FROM 2010-2012 MODELS, AND THE NHTSA DOCUMENT SHOWING THE RECALL OF THAT PART. I AM NOT A LARGE PERSON, ~145 LBS, AND THERE IS NO REASON A METAL PIECE HOLDING MY SEAT IN PLACE SHOULD HAVE SNAPPED IN TWO.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE LEAKED FUEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO GREEN MAZDA (217-391-2400, LOCATED AT 3760 S 6TH ST, SPRINGFIELD, IL 62703) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT A CHARCOAL CANISTER FILTER WAS LOOSE AND NEEDED TO BE TIGHTENED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE WAS REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 142,000.

MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR FAILED AT 38,000 MILES CAUSING THE CAR TO STALL AND WOULDN'T RESTART.

THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE VARIABLE VALVE TIMING SYSTEM CAUSING REDUCED ACCELERATION PERFORMANCE. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS DISPLAYED. THIS PROBLEM IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE RECALL ON MAZDA3 VEHICLES MANUFACTURED BETWEEN JULY 2011 AND NOVEMBER 2011. THE CAR LOST ACCELERATION AND A VEHICLE BEHIND ME ALMOST REAR-ENDED MY VEHICLE. FOR SOME REASON MAZDA IS NOT RECOGNISING THE RECALL ON LATER MODELS AFFECTED BY THE SAME ISSUE. MAZDA RECALL REFERENCE IS 6511K. THE RECALL SHOULD BE EXPANDED TO COVER ADDITIONAL VINS

EACH TIME THE VEHICLE IS FUELED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON. I HAVE CLICKED THE FUEL CAP SEVERAL TIMES. I HAVE HAD THE CAP REPLACED. THERE IS AN EVAP CODE SHOWING. THE CAR CANNOT PASS ANY STATE INSPECTION

I PURCHASED MY 2012 MAZDA 3 ONE YEAR AGO (2017). I FIRST NOTICED THE ISSUE ABOUT A MONTH AFTER OWNING MY CAR. I TURNED ON MY AIR CONDITIONER AT FIRST LOW, THEN ALL THE WAY UP, IT FELT SLIGHTLY COOL, BUT ONLY AS IF MY FANS WERE BLOWING AND NOWHERE NEAR WHAT AN AIR CONDITIONER SHOULD PROPERLY FEEL LIKE. THIS WAS AFTER LETTING THE CAR WARM UP, AND DRIVING ON BACK ROADS OR HIGHWAYS AS WELL AS WHEN PARKED. I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK AND THE TECHNICIAN HAD SOME TROUBLE FIGURING OUT HOW TO FIX IT. THE AC COMPRESSOR WAS REPLACED, AND YET I AM STILL NOW DEALING WITH A CAR THAT WILL NOT BLOW COLD AIR! ONLY SEMI COOL ON THE HIGHEST FAN SETTING ! ALSO WHEN ACCELERATING AND HAVING THE AIR CONDITIONER ON MY CAR DOES NOT ACCELERATE AS WELL OR FEEL AS THOUGH IT IS DRIVING AS WELL AS IT DOES WITHOUT NEEDING THE AIR CONDITIONER ON. MY CAR REALLY FEELS LIKE IT IS WORKING EXTRA HARD TO PUT OUT SEMI COOL AIR. I HAVE HAD THE AIR CONDITIONER CHECKED AGAIN AND IT SAYS ITS NOT AS COOL AS IT SHOULD BE. I NEED A RESOLUTION TO THIS PLEASE.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A WINDING ROAD WHEN MY CAR STARTED TO LOSE POWER AND AND THEN COMPLETELY STALLED. PROR TO IT STALLING, IT WAS ACTING STRANGE, WOULD REV HIGH AND NOT KICK IN TO THE NEXT GEAR (NOT SURE IF THAT'S A CORRECT DESCRIPTION AS THIS IS AN AUTOMATIC CAR). THREE LIGHTS CAME ON: THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, THE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXILE LIGHT AND TCS/DSC INDICATOR LIGHT. IT WAS TOWED TO A LOCAL SMALL AUTO SHOP WHO DIAGNOSED IT AS A COMPUTER CODE ISSUE BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO FIX IT. IT WAS THEN TOWED TO MAZDA WHO COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. SINCE THIS INCIDENT, MY CAR DOES NOT HAVE GOOD POWER, ESPECIALLY ON INCLINES. IT SEEMS TO SHAKE AT TIMES AND RUNS ROUGH AND THIS WAS NOT THE CASE PRIOR TO THE STALLING INCIDENT. I BELIEVE IT IS A TRANSMISSION ISSUE BUT SINCE MAZDA COULDN'T DIAGNOSE IT, I'M NOT SURE.

HEADLIGHTS PULSATE WHEN APPLYING BRAKES. A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WAS ISSUED. IT IS A SOFTWARE ISSUE INVOLVING THE ALTERNATOR AND RE-CALIBRATING THE PCM. IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME YOU BRAKE WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ON.

TOLD BY MAZDA TECHNICIAN THAT RIGHT REAR SWAY BAR LINK IS DEFECTIVE- FAILING, AND CAUSING A CLUNKING NOISE. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 54K MILES ON IT, NOTICED THE NOISE AROUND 52K MILES

HEADLIGHTS INTERMITTENTLY DIM WHEN SLOWING DOWN. COULD BE FROM LETTING OFF ACCELERATOR OR APPLYING THE BRAKES. IT IS DISTRACTING AND MAZDA KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE INCLUDING THE FIX YET HAS NOT MADE COMMINICATIONS TO OWNERS.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS 2012-2013 MAZDA3 VEHICLES (WITH SKYACTIV-G 2.0L AND HALOGEN TYPE HEADLIGHTS)

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE SUN ROOF EXPLODED WITHOUT WARNING. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. TACOMA MAZDA IN TACOMA, WASHINGTON STATED THAT THEY WERE UNAWARE OF THE FAILURE EVER OCCURRING IN THE PAST. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 22,000.

WHEN DRIVING WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON, THE HEADLIGHTS APPEAR TO PULSATE, DIMMING AND BRIGHTENING VERY NOTICEABLY. THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS MOVING. MAZDA HAS IDENTIFIED THE PROBLEM, ISSUED A TSB REFERENCE SB-01-019-13. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL SINCE IT'S DISTRACTING AND DANGEROUS TO THE DRIVER AND OTHER MOTORISTS ON THE ROAD. NHTSA HAS AN ID NUMBER 10053740 ASSOCIATED WITH THIS.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER/PULSATE WHEN APPLYING BRAKES. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH 2012-13 MAZDA3 THAT REQUIRES A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO REMEDY. CURRENTLY, MAZDA IS CHARGING A MINIMUM OF $99 TO 'DIAGNOSE' THE ISSUE. SINCE THE ISSUE OCCURS IN MOTION, I DO NOT HAVE PHOTOS, BUT I DO HAVE VIDEOS. GIVEN THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE CAUSED BY FAULTY SOFTWARE THAT ONLY MAZDA CAN UPDATE, THERE IS NO REASON THAT OWNERS SHOULD HAVE TO PAY THEM TO FIX THEIR OWN MISTAKE. IT'S A SCAM, AT BEST. DOCUMENTATION OF OTHERS WITH SAME ISSUE AND CONSISTENT SOFTWARE UPDATE SOLUTION: HTTPS://WWW.MAZDAFORUM.COM/FORUM/MAZDA3-26/MAZDA-3-HEADLIGHTS-FLICKERING-PULSATING-WHEN-BRAKING-34536/ HTTPS://WWW.GOOGLE.COM/AMP/S/AMP.REDDIT.COM/R/MAZDA3/COMMENTS/6AAEIK/20122013_HEADLIGHT_FLICKERING_SOLUTION/ - THIS LINK INCLUDES A MAZDA CANADA SERVICE BULLETIN, INDICATING THAT THE COMPANY IS FULLY AWARE OF THE ISSUE HTTPS://WWW.MAZDAS247.COM/FORUM/SHOWTHREAD.PHP?123843988-2013-MAZDA-3-HEADLIGHTS-BLINK-WHEN-BRAKES-APPLIED

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE CLUTCH FAILED ON THE HIGHWAY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTES DIAL FLUCTUATED RAPIDLY. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE AND PARK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED FOUR TIMES FOR THE SAME FAILURE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED EACH TIME THE FAILURE OCCURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO JOHN HINE MAZDA (45 CAMINO DEL RIO S, SAN DIEGO, CA 92108 (888) 714-7925) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CLUTCH FAILED DUE TO DRIVER ABUSE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000.

MORE THAT ONE PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE. 1) IT STARTS HONKING WHILE DRIVING, INSTRUMENT PANEL AND INTERIOR LIGHTS FLASH ON AND OFF, THE CAR WILL ONLY MAKE RIGHT TURNS AND WILL NOT RESTART WHEN VEHICLE IS TURNED OFF. YESTERDAY, IT DID IT ONCE AGAIN IMMEDIATELY AS I TURNED RIGHT ONTO THE CITY STREET FROM A PARKING LOT. LUCKILY THERE WAS ANOTHER PARKING LOT ENTRANCE ON THE RIGHT, SO I PULLED IN, PARKED AND TURNED OFF THE VEHICLE. IT CONTINUED TO HONK, FLASH INTERIOR LIGHTS AND INSTRUMENT PANEL AND IGNITION WOULD NOT WORK NOR CRANK. I TRIED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE SEVERAL TIMES OVER A FIVE (5) MINUTES, WHEN IT FINALLY RESTARTED AND I WAS ABLE TO GET THE VEHICLE HOME WITHOUT IT HAPPENING AGAIN. THIS VEHICLE HAS DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES AND IT WILL START HONKING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT WHILE PARKED AND OFF FOR NO REASON. THERE ARE TIMES THAT AS QUICKLY AS IT STARTED HONKING IT WILL STOP, OTHER TIMES, I MUST GO ATTEMPT TO TURN VEHICLE ON AND EVENTUALLY IGNITION WILL CRANK AND ENGINE WILL START. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO MAZDA BUT THEY ARE NOT ABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM AND TELL ME THERE'S NOTHING THEY CAN DO. I AM WORRIED I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO TURN ONE OF THESE DAYS AND HIT SOMEONE AND GET HIT BY SOMEONE ELSE WHEN THE CAR DECIDES IT WON'T TURN LEFT. NOT TO MENTION IF THE CAR WILL NOT START WHILE I AM IN A BAD AREA AND BE HARMED WHILE WAITING FOR THE CAR TO STOP HONKING, FLASHING AND REFUSING TO CRANK AND START. 2) WHEN YOU PUT GEAR IN DRIVE, FROM EITHER PARK OR REVERSE, AND TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE THE CAR ACCELERATES AND LUNGES FORWARD WITHOUT PRESSING THE GAS PEDDLE. THE FIRST TIME IT DID IT I ALMOST HIT A PARKED CAR! THANKFUL I ACTED QUICKLY AND REAPPLIED THE BRAKE. NOW I ALLOW ENOUGH SPACE, AS IF I DRIVING A TRUCK AND AM READY TO APPLY THE BRAKE. DEALERSHIP STATES NOTHING IS WRONG WITH IT. MAZDA NEEDS TO TAKE THESE MATTERS SERIOUSLY. BUT IT'S GOING BACK!!

I WAS DRIVING 30 MPH ON A SMALL RURAL ROAD GOING THROUGH A RIGHT-HAND TURN WHEN THE A/T, ENGINE, AND STABILITY CONTROL LIGHTS CAME ON. I PUSHED THE STABILITY CONTROL SWITCH IN ATTEMPT TO SHUT IT OFF BUT TO NO AVAIL. I STOPPED AND TURNED THE IGNITION OFF BUT THAT DIDN'T RESOLVE THE ISSUE EITHER. I DROVE IT HOME BUT IT WASN'T EASY. THE CAR HAD NO ACCELERATION (NO TORQUE) AND COULD BARELY GET UP THE HILL TO MY HOME. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE DEALER. THEY ARE REPLACING AN ELECTRONIC MODULE THAT COMMUNICATES BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION. THE MODULE AND LABOR IS $1,000+. THE CAR HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED AND HAS 105,000 MILES AND IS ONLY DRIVEN ON FREEWAYS AND NORMAL SURFACE STREETS.

TAKATA AIRBAG RECALL-I BELIEVE THE 2012 MAZDA 3 SHOULD BE PART OF THE RECALL. MY AIRBAG LIGHT FLASHES. IT WAS DIAGNOSED AS DRIVER SIDE OPEN. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN. MY VEHICLE HAS NEVER BEEN IN A AN ACCIDENT, BUT THE COMPUTER SAYS MY AIRBAG HAD BEEN DEPLOYED WHEN IT HAS NOT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE AIR BAG INDICATOR ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 95,000.

I WENT TO THE MADZA PLACE ON AUGUST 22 I TAKED TO CLARK HE SAW MY DASH BOARD AND TOLD ME THAT I HAD A RECALL THAT HE WOULD NEED TO ORDER THE PART AND IT WOULD TAKE A MONTH TO GET IT IN. I HAVE CALLED MANY TIMES TO GET MY CAR FIX THEY TOLD ME THAT THEIR WAS NOT A RECALL AT THIS TIME. I AM NOT VERY HAPPY THAT CLARK TOLD ME HE WOULD CALLED AND LET ME KNOW THAT THE PART WAS IN. I AM VERY NOT HAPPY AT THIS TIME TO WHAT I NEED TO DO. NO ONE AT THE DEALER SHIP IS HELPING ME AT ALL BOB MOORE MADZA (405) 775-7000. I NEED MY DASHBOARD FIX ASAP. PLEASE HELP

TAKATA RECALL IS THERE A RECALL ON MY VEHICLE. THE LOCAL DEALER SAID THERE IS NOT. DON'T KNOW HOW HE COULD KNOW THAT AS HE DID NOT ASK FOR THE VIN. SO FAR THERE HAVE NOT BEEN ANY AIRBAG PROBLEMS BUT I HAVE NOT HAD AN ACCIDENT. IF YOU CALL, YOU MUST INCLUDE *82 BEFORE THE PHONE NUMBER. IF YOU DON'T, MY PHONE MAY SAY THE PHONE IS DISCONNECTED. TOO MANY SALES CALLS.

I PARK CAR AND IT STILL MOVES A FEW INCHES FORWARD

TAKATA RECALL - VEHICLE WAS PARKED/STATIONARY. THE DASHBOARD IS BREAKING APART WHERE THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG IS. SEE ATTACHED PICTURE. THIS VEHICLE HAS NEVER BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT AND I HAVE BEEN THE ONLY OWNER OF THE VEHICLE. I WILL BE CALLING THE DEALERSHIP TO GET THIS REPAIRED SINCE THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE FOR THE OCCUPANTS (MY FAMILY) OF THE VEHICLE.

DASH BOARD

WAS INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT IN APRIL 2017 HIT FROM THE BACK AND PUSH INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE THE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY BUT THE LIGHT CAME ON AND WAS FLASHING EVERY SINCE THEN. WE WERE SITTING STILL AT A STOP WHEN WE GOT REAR ENDED AND PUSH INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE.

THE HEADLIGHT HAVE BEEN FLICKERING SINCE A FEW MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THE CAR, & IT CAUSES INADEQUATE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, IT HAS ALSO CAUSED ISSUES WITH LOSING MY POWER STEERING. THE HEADLIGHT NOT ONLY FLICKER WHEN BREAKING, BUT HAVE GOTTEN TO THE POINT THEY WILL COMPLETELY GO OUT, & WILL ALSO FLICKER ALL INTERIOR LIGHTS WHEN BRAKING & TURNING THE WHEEL. I HAVE BEEN PULLED OVER DUE TO POLICE THINKING I AM FLASHING MY LIGHTS WHEN BREAKING, BUT WAS LUCKY TO BE ABLE TO SHOW THE POLICE OFFICER THE SERVICE BULLETIN 01-019/13 & HE LET ME GO WITH A WARNING & STRONGLY ADVISED ME TO GET IT FIXED. IT IS NOW TIME FOR MY CAR TO GO THROUGH INSPECTION, & IT WILL NOT PASS WITH THE LIGHTS FLICKERING & GOING COMPLETELY OUT. THE PROBLEM HAS ONLY CONTINUED GETTING WORSE TO THE POINT THE HEADLIGHT ARE GOING COMPLETELY OFF WHILE DRIVING DURING HOURS WHEN HEADLIGHTS ARE NEEDED. I HAVE LOST MY POWER STEERING MULTIPLE TIMES AFTER STARTING MY CAR AND BEGAN DRIVING, WITH A BRAND NEW BATTERY INSTALLED BY A MECHANIC, & WHEN I HAVE LOST POWER STEERING I HAVE ALMOST CRASHED INTO THE SIDE OF MY WORK OFFICE & HAVE HAD TO TRY PULLING OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD DUE TO LOSING POWER STEERING WHILE DRIVING. IT IS TIME FOR ACTION TO BE TAKEN & THIS BE A RECALL BEFORE SOMEONE IS KILLED, GMC CAN RECALL FOR THE SAME COMPUTER SYSTEM UPGRADE THAT IS NEEDED FOR MY MAZDA 3, BUT HAVE ONLY BEEN TOLD THAT IT IS NOT COVERED AND THAT I HAVE TO PAY OUT OF POCKET, WHICH I HAVE GOTTEN QUOTES FROM SEVERAL MAZDA DEALERS OVER THE SEVERAL YEARS I HAVE OWNED & CONTINUE TO DEAL WITH THE ISSUE AND IT WILL COST ME OVER $500 TO HAVE REPAIRED!! DUE TO NOT HAVING THE MONEY TO AFFORD TO COMPUTER UPGRADE WHICH I CONSIDER A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE THAT SHOULD BE MAZDA'S PROBLEM TO FIX BEFORE THEY HAVE A CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT BROUGHT AGAINST THEM, BECAUSE SOMEONE DRIVING A MAZDA 3 GET SERIOUSLY INJURED OR SERIOUS INJURE SOMEONE ELSE!

TAKATA RECALL I AM TRYING TO SEE IF MY 2012 MAZDA 3 HATCHBACK IS PART OF THE TAKATA AIRBAG RECALL. SO FAR ALL I HAVE RECEIVED IS A NOTICE THAT I MAY BE ELIGIBLE TO TAKE PART IN A CLASS ACTION SUIT IN FLORIDA.

THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG LIGHT COMES ON WHEN NO ONE IS IN SEAT,MANY PICTURE AND GAVE TO DEALER AND NOW THE PASSENGER AIRBAG LIGHT IS ON WHEN SOMEONE SITS IN THE SEAT,THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES ,MANY PICTURES AND VIDEOS SENT TO DEALER.THIS HAS BE GOING ON SINCE JAN 2017 TO PRESENT.ALL THIS HAPPENS JUST AFTER THE CAR IS STARTED AND AIRBAG SYSTEM DOES SELF TEST.

MY HEADLIGHT HOUSING HAS CONDENSATION AND THAT IN TURN HAS CAUSED MY HID LIGHTS TO FAIL. I HAVE READ OVER AN OVER THAT MAZDA'S FROM 2010-2011 HAVE THIS PARTICULAR PROBLEM. WHY DO THEY NOT TAKE THIS ISSUE SERIOUSLY. I WAS TOLD BY A MAZDA IN LEXINGTON, KY THAT THIS WOULD COST ME IN EXCESS OF $600.00 TO REPLACE. WHY DOES THIS STILL CONTINUE TO BE A PROBLEM. ANYTIME IT RAINS THERE IS MORE CONDENSATION BUILD UP. THE PASSENGER SIDE WAS AFFECTED FIRST NOW IT APPEARS AS THOUGH THE DRIVER SIDE IS STARTING TO HAVE BUILD UP OF CONDENSATION, WHICH WILL ULTIMATELY CAUSE A FAILURE WITH THE HID. SO INSTEAD DRIVING WITH ONE HEADLIGHT AND FOG LIGHTS (WHICH THE FOG LIGHTS HELP) I WILL HAVE NO HEADLIGHTS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. NORTH POINTE MAZDA DEALER STATED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE REMEDY WOULD BE PROVIDED ONCE THE PARTS WERE AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 08/24/17*LJ *CN

I GOT A NOTICE FROM MAZDA TELLING ME MY CAR HAS A RECALL ON A LIFT GATE DAMPER THIS HAS BEEN OVER 6 MONTHS AGO AND THEY FAIL TO REPLACE IT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE). THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE DEALER (COREY FAIRBANKS MAZDA) INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY HAD NOT RECEIVED THE PARTS FOR THE REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY WOULD SEND A SECOND LETTER ONCE PARTS WERE AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

THE PASSIVE RESTRAINT LIGHT IS FLASHING SAYING THAT THE AIR BAGS WILL NOT DEPLOY IF A ACCIDENT OCCURS? THIS SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM ON OTHER YEAR MODELS AS WELL.

VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVE WAY WHEN FOR NO REASON, THE MOONROOF EXPLODED. THE GLASS HAD NO PREVIOUS IMPACT FROM ROCKS, ETC. IT WAS A MILD DAY, NOT HOT AND NOT COLD.

IT WAS A RECALL ON THE DAMPERS ON MY MAZDA 3 HATCHBACK I RECIEVED ANOTICE IN OCTOBER 2016 FROM MAZDA AND ALL THEY DO IS GIVE ME THE RUN AROUND ON REPLACING THE DAMPERS,I CANT GET ANYWHERE WITH THEM

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE POWER STEERING WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE POWER STEERING SEIZED. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON, IT OPERATED AS INTENDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.

WHEN I FILL MY GAS TANK, GASOLINE GUSHES OR SPURTS OUT WHEN THE TANK IS FULL. I KNOW NORMALLY THE GAS PUMP SHUTS OFF AUTOMATICALLY WHEN TANK IS FULL. THE AUTOMATIC SHUTOFF WHEN FUELING DOES NOT WORK. GAS ALWAYS OVERFLOWS (REGARDLESS OF WHAT GAS STATION I GO TO OR IF I HOLD THE PUMP WHEN FUELING). IT IS A MAJOR OVERFLOW. NOT A LITTLE GAS COMES OUT, A LOT COMES OUT, AND FORCEFULLY. I CANNOT FILL MY TANK MORE THAN 10 GALLONS. GAS WILL LITERALLY SHOOT OUT AROUND THE PUMP. FUEL HAS HIT MY LEGS AND FEET SEVERAL TIMES. THE CAR IS ALWAYS TURNED OFF WITH THE KEY REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION WHEN FUELING.

IN THE MORNING OF MARCH 31, 2017 WHEN I'VE PROCEEDED TO VA 206 TO THE NAVAL LAB (25-MILE SPEED LIMIT ZONE), TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM (TCS/DSC) INDICATOR LIGHT SUDDENLY LIT UP, AND CAR STALLED. I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATED BUT RECEIVED NON RESPONSE FROM THE CAR. THE CAR STAYED AROUND 20- 25 MPH. I PULLED IN THE AUTO SHOP AND TURN OFF THE ENGINE. I RE-STARTED THE CAR AND THE TCS/DSC INDICATOR LIGHT WAS OFF AND CAR BEHAVED NORMALLY. HOWEVER I DON'T KNOW IF THE PROBLEM WILL HAPPEN AGAIN.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHEN BREAKING FROM A SPEED OF 35 MILES PER HOUR THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER TO A VERY DIM DEGREE. IT IS NEARLY A STROBE LIGHT. APPARENTLY THERE IS A SOFTWARE UPDATE FIX FOR THIS FROM A TSB SO WHY ISN'T THIS RECALLED? IT IS CLEARLY DANGEROUS AND COMMON.

WE RECEIVED A NOTICE THAT OUR VEHICLE HAD A SAFETY RECALL FOR LIFT GATE STAY DAMPERS IN OCTOBER 2016. AT THIS DATE 1/24/2017. THE PARTS ARE STILL NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE REPAIR. BASED ON THE SAFETY RECALL THAT THE LIFT GATE COULD CORRODE AND FALL WE BELIEVE THIS IS NEEDING A MORE SPEEDY RESOLUTION THAN THAT WHICH IT IS CURRENTLY RECEIVING. *TR

CRUISE QUIT WORKING, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND SHORTLY THEREAFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THEN ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH STARTED FLASHING AND WENT INTO LIMP MODE. CAR DECELERATED AND I PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. TURNED CAR OFF AND THEN IT WOULDN'T START. WAITED ABOUT 10 MIN AND RESTARTED SUCCESSFULLY WITH THE CHECK ENGINE AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT STILL ON. DROVE ANOTHER 70 MILES GOING IN AND OUT OF LIMP MODE WITH DASH LIGHTS FLASHING ON & OFF. TOOK TO DEALER AND REPLACED THE ANGLE (SP?) SENSOR IN STEERING WHEEL. DEALER RESET ALL CODES AND IT'S DONE IT TWICE SINCE GETTING CAR BACK, DEALER CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT'S WRONG. HAVE TO GO IN AND HAVE THE CODES RESET EVERY TIME TO GET IT BACK TO RUNNING AGAIN.

MY BATTERY WAS DEAD. I JUMP STARTED THE CAR AND BACKED OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY. WHEN I STARTED FORWARD, THE POWER STEERING HAD AN INTERMITTENT MALFUNCTION AND SEVERAL WARNING LIGHTS ACTIVATED. I REPLACED THE BATTERY, AND EVERYTHING RETURNED TO NORMAL. IN MY CASE, THERE WAS NO PROBLEM BECAUSE THE CAR WAS IN MY DRIVEWAY. HOWEVER, HAD I JUMP STARTED THE CAR ELSEWHERE, A SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT FOR EXAMPLE, THE LOSS OF STEERING MAY HAVE HAD ADVERSE CONSEQUENCES. IN RESEARCHING THE PROBLEM, I FOUND THAT THIS FREQUENTLY OCCURS IN MAZDA3S REGARDLESS OF THE YEAR.

WHEN DRIVING, THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS WILL FLICKER/STROBE/DIM WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS ENGAGED OR WHEN MY FOOT IS REMOVED FROM THE GAS PEDAL. USUALLY THE LIGHTS WILL HAVE A MORE PRONOUNCED FLICKER AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 45-60 MPH; HOWEVER, I HAVE NOTICED THE FLICKER AT SPEEDS AS LOW AS 30 MPH. THIS HAS HAPPENED EVERY MORNING/NIGHT FOR A WEEK OR SO AND EVERY DEALERSHIP I HAVE TALKED WITH DOES NOT KNOW OF THIS ISSUE. I RESEARCHED A FEW MAZDA FORUMS AND FOUND MULTIPLE POSTS REGARDING A PROGRAMMING UPDATE FOR THE VEHICLE THAT WOULD BE A FIX. I AM WORKING ON GETTING IN TOUCH WITH MAZDAUSA FOR ADDITIONAL SUPPORT BECAUSE GOING TO A DEALERSHIP FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTS AND SUCH IS EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE AND NOT AT ALL CUSTOMER FRIENDLY.

RAN CAR INTO SIDE FENCING PUT UP FOR CONSTRUCTION IN REGARDS TO DODGING DEBRIS ON I295 FROM CONSTRUCTION WORK. MY TIRE BLEW OUT FROM HAVING TO RUN INTO THE GUARD RAIL AND I HAD TO PUT A DONUT TIRE ON. I BELIEVE THIS INCIDENT IS CORRELATED TO THE CONSTRUCTION WORK GOING ON FOR MONTHS NOW AND THAT I SHOULD BE REIMBURSED A NEW TIRE AND RIM FOR MY 2012 MAZDA 3/

ABOUT A YEAR AGO, I HAD TO REPLACE MY TIRES AT JUST UNDER 30,000 MI BECAUSE THE TREADS WORE IMPROPERLY. FAST FORWARD A FEW MONTHS, MY AXLE WORE OUT AND HAD TO BE REPLACED. HOWEVER, THE REAL PROBLEM COMES WHEN ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO, I WAS DRIVING AT ABOUT 75 MILES AN HOUR ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY, FOUR LANES OF TRAFFIC, AND THE ENGINE STARTS JUMPING. THE RPMS GO UP AND DOWN, BUT THE CAR WON'T ACCELERATE. I GET THE CAR TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD ON PURE MOMENTUM. THE CAR THEN TURNS COMPLETELY OFF WITH THE KEY IN THE ON POSITION, BUT NOT LIGHTS COME ON. I REMOVE THE KEY, WAIT 5 MINUTES AND THE CAR TURNS BACK ON. IT DIED AGAIN A FEW MIN LATER SO I HAVE IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC, WHO CAN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG. 5 MIN AFTER LEAVING THE MECHANIC'S SHOP, MY CAR STARTS JUMPING AGAIN; I BARELY MADE IT BACK. THE MECHANIC IS AT A LOSS AND RECOMMENDS THE DEALERSHIP SINCE THERE ARE NO CODES. THE DEALER GETS IT AND WORKS WITH IT FOR A FEW DAYS AND SAYS THAT THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR (MAFS) WAS CLOGGED, WHICH WAS TURNING OFF THE CAR, AND THE BEARINGS WERE ALSO CAUSING PROBLEMS BECAUSE THEY WERE WORN OUT (FROM THE AXLE BEING IMPROPERLY INSTALLED). THEY REPLACED THE BEARINGS, CLEANED THE MAFS, AND RESET THE COMPUTER, UNDER THE WARRANTY, AND TOLD ME MY CAR WAS OK. 2 DAYS LATER, I'M DRIVING ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY AGAIN AND THE CAR STARTS JUMPING AGAIN. I WAS ABLE TO BARELY MAKE IT OUT OF TRAFFIC BEFORE THE CAR DIED AGAIN. THE CAR STARTS UP AGAIN 5 MIN LATER AND I TAKE ABOUT 10 MIN TO GET TO SAFETY AS THIS REPEATS. THE DEALER HAS MY CAR FOR ALMOST 3 WKS, MAZDA'S FIELD ENGINEERS GET INVOLVED, THEY-CHECKED THE FUEL COMPONENTS, THE COMPUTER, FILTERS ETC, AND THEN MAZDA RECOMMENDS CHECKING THE WIRING HARNESS. A CLIP HAD BROKEN ABOVE THE AXLE ON THE ENGINE THAT ALLOWED THE WIRING TO WEAR OUT. THEY HAD TO REDO THE WIRING IN A DIFFERENT WAY SO IT WOULDN'T WEAR--THIS SEEMS LIKE IT HAS HAPPEN TO OTHERS W/O RESOLUTION.

AFTER 90K MILES, THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON. I TOOK THE CAR INTO THE DEALERSHIP, THE DIAGNOSTIC REQUIRED ME TO REPLACE THE SAS MODULE. I WOULD NEED TO RE-CALIBRATE THE AIRBAG SENSORS, IF THIS WAS UNSUCCESSFUL THEN I WOULD NEED TO SPEND ANOTHER $2400 REPLACING THE AIRBAG SENSORS. THE CAR HAS BEEN IN NO ACCIDENTS AND NO FENDER BENDERS, SEEMS LIKE A MANUFACTURE DEFECT.

GAS CAP. THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM. THE GAS CAP WORKS ITSELF LOOSE AND CAUSES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO ILLUMINATE SINCE A LOOSE GAS CAP INTRODUCES AN OXYGEN LEAK. THE DEALER'S FIX IS TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. HOWEVER, ONCE THE CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY, THIS CAUSES THE OWNER TO HAVE TO EITHER BUY A CODE SCANNER TO RESET THE CODE OR GO TO THE DEALER AND PAY FOR A DIAGNOSIS. THIS PROBLEM IS NOT AFFECTED BY THE TYPE OF DRIVING OR ROAD CONDITIONS. THE CAP WORKS ITSELF LOOSE AND THAT TRIGGERS THE WARNING LIGHT.

WHEN DECELERATING, I'LL PUSH IN CLUTCH, APPLY BRAKE, AND SHIFT TO A LOWER GEAR. AS I LET OUT THE CLUTCH, CAR WILL SOMETIMES LURCH FORWARD (AS IF I'M DEPRESSING ACCELERATOR EVEN THOUGH I'M NOT). I MUST IMMEDIATELY DEPRESS CLUTCH AGAIN AND LET OUT SLOWLY TO PREVENT THE SUDDEN SURGE IN ACCELERATION. MOST OFTEN HAPPENS WHEN I AM COMING OUT OF A TURN AND BEGIN TO LET OUT CLUTCH. ALSO, AT 3 1/2 YEARS OLD, WITH 95,000 MOSTLY HIGHWAY MILES, MANUAL TRANSMISSION HAS STARTED POPPING OUT OF 4TH GEAR WHILE DRIVING. I'LL BE DRIVING ALONG AND FOR NO REASON SHIFTER WILL POP OUT OF GEAR. INDEPENDENT TRANSMISSION SHOP SAID CAUSE IS LIKELY BAD BEARINGS INSIDE TRANSMISSION AND RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT WITH MANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION. I NEVER HAD PROBLEMS WITH MY 2010 MAZDA 5 WITH 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. I'VE REPORTED PROBLEMS TO MAZDA SERVICE AND OF COURSE THEY CAN NEVER GET PROBLEM TO REPEAT ITSELF WHILE THEY ARE DRIVING.

THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR SENSOR ON THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR. AT RANDOM INTERVALS THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WILL TURN ON AND THE DASH INDICATES THAT THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR IS OPEN AFTER THE DOORS AUTOMATICALLY LOCK DUE TO SPEED. THIS WILL CONTINUE UNTIL I UNLOCK THE DOORS. UNFORTUNATELY THEY RELOCK AUTOMATICALLY IF I STOP FOR A TRAFFIC LIGHT AND THEN ACCELERATE. THE INTERIOR LIGHTS COME BACK ON AND THE DASH INDICATES THE DOOR IS OPEN AGAIN AS SOON AS MY SPEED IS SUFFICIENT TO MAKE THE DOORS AUTOMATICALLY LOCK AGAIN. THIS IS A NUISANCE DURING THE DAY BUT A MAJOR DISTRACTION AT NIGHT. HAVING THE INTERIOR LIGHTS SUDDENLY TURN ON WHILE DRIVING AT 10 PM IN THE RAIN IS HORRIBLY DISTRACTING AND A LITTLE SCARY. THIS WILL SOMETIMES OCCUR FOR 2-3 DAYS IN A ROW AND THEN NOT HAPPEN AGAIN FOR 2-3 WEEKS. MY CAR HAS ONLY 38000 MILES ON IT BUT THE DEALER SAYS THIS ISN'T COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY.

SQUEAKING NOISE FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT. SOURCE APPEARS TO BE ENGINE MOUNT#4. NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND GREASED. NOISE OCCURS IN MOTION, NO CORRELATION WITH TURNING OR SPEED.

THE TIRES ON THIS CAR WORE OUT BY 30000 MILES AND THEY GOT EXTREMELY LOUD SOONER THAN THAT. I HIT A NAIL AND 2 DIFFERENT TIRE SHOPS REFUSED TO REPAIR THE TIRES BECAUSE OF UNEVEN TREAD WEAR. I ALWAYS TAKE THE CAR IN FOR INSPECTIONS AND MAINTENANCE ON TIME. I WENT TO THE MANUFACTURERS WEBSITE AND FOUND THE SAFETY AND QUALITY CUSTOMER RATINGS ON THE STOCK TIRES ARE EXTREMELY LOW. I HAVE NOTICED THE CAR DID NOT HAVE VERY GOOD TRACTION FROM THE START FORCING ME TO GO BELOW THE RECOMMENDED SPEED LIMIT ON TURNS. I CALLED THE MANUFACTURER TO ASK IF THERE IS A RECALL ON THE TIRES AND THEY SAID NO, BUT THEY DID VOLUNTEER THAT THOSE TIRES WERE SPECIALLY ORDERED FOR THAT MODEL CAR TO MAKE IT APPEAR TO HAVE BETTER FUEL ECONOMY. THE FUEL ECONOMY DROPPED A BIT ONCE I HAD SAFER TIRES INSTALLED. IT SEEMS TO ME THAT MAZDA IS USING CHEAP UNSAFE TIRES TO ARTIFICIALLY INFLATE THE FUEL ECONOMY WINDOW STICKER AT THE EXPENSE OF CUSTOMER SAFETY.

GPS AUDIO GOES DEAD AND ENDANGERS DRIVER'S & OCCUPANTS ' SAFETY WHILE DRIVING THROUGH UNFAMILIAR ALLEGEDLY CRIME-RIDDEN PARTS OF STRANGE CITIES & NEIGHBORHOODS. NOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM SINCE LIGHTS AND WIPERS ETC WORK.. SEEMS LIKE DEFECTIVE GPS WITH POTENTIAL TO ENDANGER SAFETY OF DRIVER & PASSENGERS.

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE BRAND NEW IN JULY OF 2012. IN MAY OF THIS YEAR (2015), I HAD A TIRE BLOW OUT ON ME (OEM BRIDGESTONES) WHILE TRAVELING AT 75MPH ON THE FREEWAY. AT THE TIME, MY CAR HAD BARELY 30,000 MILES ON IT. OF COURSE, THEY ARE NOT WARRANTED. HOW IS IT THAT MAZDA HAS A 3 YR./36,000 MILE WARRANTY ON THEIR VEHICLES, BUT CAN'T MANAGE TO EQUIP IT WITH TIRES THAT WOULD DO THE SAME?!

HELLO, TIRES HAVE 12,103 MILES ON THEM THEY ARE EXHIBITING CRACKING AT THE BEAD WHERE THE THREADS MEET THE SIDE WALL I HAVE TOLD TOYO THEY SAY THIS IS NORMAL OZONE CHECKING WHO EVER HEARD OF THAT ON A 3 YEAR OLD TIRE PLEASE UNBELIEVABLE WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO DIE OR BUY NEW TIRES AT MY OWN EXPENSE WHEN I AM OUT OF WORK AT THE MOMENT SOMEONE PLEASE HELP THIS IS TERRIBLE I WILL INCLUDE PICTURE OF CRACK TIRES HAVE ALL THE THREAD LEFT STILL THAT IS WHY I CAN NOT UNDERSTAND THAT THESE SHOULD BE RECALLED ALSO THANK YOU [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

I JUST GOT OFF WORK AND GOT IN MY CAR TO LEAVE. I TURNED ON THE CAR AND EVERYTHING SEEMED NORMAL. I PULLED OUT OF THE PARKING LOT AND AS SOON AS I PULLED UP TO THE LIGHT, WHICH WAS 1BLOCK AWAY, MY CAR SHUT OFF. I WAS JUST AT THE RED LIGHT WAITING THEN MY CAR TURNED OFF AND WOULD NOT TURN BACK ON. ALL THE POWER IN THE CAR WAS THERE BUT MY CAR WOULD JUST NOT TURN BACK ON, MY VEHICAL WAS BEING OPERATED IN THE AUTOMATIC POSITION.THIS WAS DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT WAS A FRIDAY AFTERNOON DURING THE 5 O'CLOCK TRAFFIC AND I HAD ALL THESE VEHICALS LINED UP BEHIND ME HONKING AND I HAD TO PUSH MY VEHICALS OFF TO THE SIDE AND CALL A TOW TRUCK. MY VEHICAL WAS LUCKILY ON THE CITY STREET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THERE WAS A RATTLING NOISE UNDERNEATH THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE AND THE TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT CONSTANTLY ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TIRES NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE TIRES WERE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 40,000.

AS I WAS DRIVING THE POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON, AND I LOST ALL POWER STEERING. I PULLED OVER AND CHECKED THE FLUID, IT WAS FINE. WHEN I GOT BACK IN AND DROVE THE LIGHT WENT OUT. I CALLED THE DEALER AND EXPLAINED WHAT HAPPENED, MADE AN APPOINTMENT, TOOK MY CAR IN AND THEY SAID THEY COULDNT GET THE CAR TO DO IT AGAIN SO JUST WATCH IT. ABOUT A MONTH LATER THE CAR DID IT AGAIN BUT I WAS TRAVELING AT ABOUT 67 MILES AN HOUR, AND LOST POWER STEERING! THE LIGHT STAYED ON LONG ENOUGH FOR ME TO RECORD WHAT WHAT HAPPENING AND TO DRIVE TO THE DEALER. AGAIN THE LIGHT WENT OUT AS I ENTERED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THERE WERENT ANY CODES ON THE CAR NOR WERE THERE ANY IN THE MEMORY. THIS IS DANGEROUS AS I WAS TURNING INTO THE DEALER, THE POWER STEERING TURNED BACK ON AND I ALMOST SPUN IN A DONUT BECAUSE I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL REALLY HARD DUE TO NO POWER AT THE TIME. ITS ANNOYING AND I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO HAVE IT FIXED BUT NOBODY CAN TELL ME WHAT IT IS!

PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE ON AUG 27TH 2014 AS A USED VEHICLE AND DID THE INITIAL TEST DRIVE DURING THE DAY. A FEW DAYS LATER WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT I DECELERATED WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY (SPEED IS 55MPH) TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AT A 4 WAY INTERSECTION. THE MOMENT BRAKES ARE APPLIED THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS FLICKER AND CONTINUE TO DO SO UNTIL FULLY STOPPED. I'VE TESTED THIS AT MULTIPLE SPEEDS AND ROAD TYPES AND IT HAPPENS EACH TIME. WE LIVE IN A HEAVILY POPULATED AREA WITH PLENTY OF CHILDREN AS WELL AS WILD LIFE AND THIS DECREASES MY CHANCES OF SEEING THEM IF THEY RUN OUT (EVEN WHILE BRAKING, SAY IF I WAS DOING SO SLOWLY A CHILD RUN OUT I CAN E-BRAKE OR APPLY MORE PRESSURE TO BRAKES TO STOP QUICKER...CAN'T DO THAT IF I DON'T SEE THEM IN TIME). IT ALSO IS EXTREMELY DISTRACTING AND ANNOYING. I'M SURE OTHER DRIVERS DON'T APPRECIATE IT WHEN IT'S IN THEIR REAR VIEW MIRRORS NOR WHEN THEY ARE DRIVING TOWARDS ME ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ROAD. HONESTLY I'M SURPRISED I HAVEN'T BEEN PULLED OVER AND TICKETED FOR "ILLEGAL MODIFICATION TO HEADLIGHTS" ETC. I'M NOT SEEING A RECALL ON THIS, HOWEVER THERE IS SERVICE BULLETINS FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM. WHY HASN'T THE PCM OR THE ALTERNATOR BEEN RECALLED? THIS PROBLEM AMONG OTHERS I'VE DEALT WITH SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE AND THE FACT THAT PROBLEMS ARE BEING FIXED BY THE MANUFACTURE MAKE IT TO WHERE I'LL NEVER PURCHASE ANOTHER MAZDA IN THE FUTURE.

DASHBOARD POPS OUT IN 85 DEGREE WEATHER

MY CAR WAS T-BONE, IT SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN DRIVEN. MY DAUGHTER WAS MADE TO DRIVE THE DAMAGED CAR HOME INSTEAD OF USING A TOW TRUCK TO TAKE IT TO THE NEAREST BODY SHOP. THE SUSPENSION WAS BENT COMPLETELY INWARDS (DOUGHNUT TIRE WAS USED TO DRIVE THE CAR HOME WITH A BENT SUSPENSION). I WAS TOLD BY THE INSURANCE COMPANY TO DRIVE THE CAR TO THE NEAREST SHOP THEY DO BUSINESS WITH, AND I DID. I ASKED THE SUPERVISOR/ADJUSTER TO TOTAL THE CAR BEFORE EVER SEEING THE INTERNAL DAMAGE. I KNEW THE CAR COULD NOT BE REPAIRED BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS, ALMOST NEW CONDITION. WE WENT BACK AND FORWARD ABOUT TOTALING THE CAR. HE REFUSED TO TOTAL ONLY AFTER PLEADING WITH HIM, HE AGREED TO DO SO. AFTER SEEING THE CAR STRIPPED FROM LID OF TRUNK, TIRES OFF, I SAW THE RIGHT TIRE COMPLETELY BENT INWARD. I WAS TOLD IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE THAT WAY. I TOLD THE ADJUSTER I DID NOT WANT THE CAR THAT IT IS DESTROYED, AGAIN I ASKED HIM TO TOTAL THE CAR. HE SAID NO, THE CAR COULD BE REPAIRED. I WAS ASSURED BY THE BODY SHOP OWNER THAT HE WOULD REPAIR IT BACK 100%. HE DID NOT. THE SHOP KEPT MY CAR APPROX. 2 MONTHS FROM THE 15 DAYS PROMISED TO BE FIXED. I PICKED UP THE CAR ON 6/24/15. MY DAUGHTER AND I EXAMINED IT AND THE BACK SEAT PULLED AWAY FROM THE BACK AND BASE OF THE SEAT; WOULD NOT STAY LOCKED DOWN. IT PULLED COMPLETELY AWAY FROM THE BACK, OUT, AND UP; TAIL LIGHTS DID NOT WORK; SUSPENSION WAS UNBALANCED, THE CAR PULLED LEFT. THE RIGHT SUSPENSION WAS LOWER ABOUT 5/8" LOWER THAN THE LEFT SUSPENSION; NAIL IN TIRE WHICH MADE THE TIRE SENSOR LIGHT STAY ON; CAR SMELLED OFFER INSIDE; IT WAS NOT WASHED BEFORE GIVEN BACK TO ME; PAINT HAD DRIPPED AND DRIED UP AT THE BASE OF THE CAR WHERE REPAIR WORK HAD BEEN DONE; RIGHT DOOR DID NOT ALIGN; BACK PANEL DID NOT ALIGN; SUSPENSION WAS NOT COATED, LEFT TO RUST OUT; RADIO HAD BEEPING SOUND WHEN CHANGING STATIONS; MY DAUGHTER HAS 13 MONTH OLD WHO RIDES IN THE CAR.

PURCHASED AS CERTIFIED PREOWNED FROM LOCAL MAZDA DEALER. PREMATURE TIRE CUPPING OF REAR TIRES. RESULT IN TIRE ROAD NOISE, UNEVEN WEAR, EARLY REPLACEMENT. REAR CAMBER SETTING IS POSSIBLE ISSUE EXPRESSED "UNOFFICIALLY" BY MAZDA MECHANIC.

DASHBOARD POPS OUT IN TEMPERATURES OVER 90 DEGREES.

DRIVING WITH NO TRAFFIC IN FRONT OF ME AND MOONROOF EXPLODED. DID NOT SEE OR HEAR A ROCK, JUST HEARD WHAT SOUNDED LIKE A GUNSHOT. PULLED OFFER RIGHT AWAY AND MOON ROOF WAS SHATTERED. IT LOOKED LIKE IT BLEW OUT AS OPPOSED TO SMASHED IN. *TR

I DROVE OVER BUMPY RAIL ROAD TRACKS, WENT TO GIVE IT GAS TO GO AND ENGINE REVVED BUT NO ACCELERATION. DASH LIGHT THAT NORMALLY SAYS 'D' WAS BLANK. SHIFTED TO MANUAL MODE AND ATTEMPTED TO UP OR DOWN SHIFT BUT DASH LIGHT STILL BLANK AND NO SHIFTING POSSIBLE. THE CAR WAS RUNNING IN NUETRAL BUT THE GEAR SELECTOR WAS IN DRIVE OR IN MANUAL MODE. HAD TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. NOTED TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WAS ON WHILE SHIFT SELECTOR INDICATOR WAS BLANK. I PUT THE CAR INTO PARK, TURNED CAR OFF AND THEN ON AGAIN AND SEEMED TO DRIVE OK AT THIS POINT AFTER THIS. I WAS LUCKY THAT I WAS DRIVING AT A SLOW SPEED AND HAD ROOM TO GET OFF THE ROAD. IF I HAD GOTTEN STUCK ON THE TRACKS THIS COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH WORSE. AND THE DEALER SAYS THEY CAN DO NOTHING UNLESS THERE IS A CODE STORED. NO CODE SO NOTHING I CAN DO. THIS RANKS UP THERE IN LEVEL OF DANGER YET MAZDA CAN DO NOTHING?

I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND AS I WAS SHIFTING THROUGH THE GEAR I CAME UP TO A SPEED ZONE SO I TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE GAS AND AS SOON AS I PRESSED MY FOOT ON THE GAS THE SHIFTER POPPED OUT OF 4TH GEAR AND INTO NEUTRAL I HAD TO QUICKLY PUT IT BACK INTO 4TH GEAR SO I WOULDN`T GET HIT FROM BEHIND AFTER IT HAPPENED A FEW MORE TIME I TOLD MY HUSBAND AND HE CALLED THE DEALER WHERE WE BOUGHT THE CAR THE DEALER CHECKED IT OUT AND SAID THEY COULDN`T FIND ANYTHING THAT WOULD CAUSE IT SO I TOOK IT BACK AS A SAFE CAR. THE CAR NOW HAS ABOUT 60000 MILES ON IT AND CONTINUES TO POP OUT OF GEAR WHILE DRIVING ON MAJOR HIGHWAYS WE HAVE TOLD THE DEALER ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS BUT WHEN THEY HAVE THE CAR IT DOESN`T DO IT BUT THEN AGAIN THEY D. ..RIVE IT ON A TWP ROAD NOT A HIGHWAY. I PURCHASED THE CAR BRAND NEW FROM WEISLEIDER FORD IN BRICK NJ

AFTER A MECHANICS CHECK IT WAS FOUND: 1) SLIGHT FEATHERING/EDGEWEAR/CUPPING ON ALL TIRE'S AND 2) POWER STEERING WARNING LIGHT ON IGN ON HOWEVER CLEARS ON ENGINE START. THIS IS ALL DESPITE FULL MAINTENANCE HISTORY AS PER MAZDA GUIDELINES. THE PROBLEM CAUSES SIGNIFICANT TIRE NOISE WHEN DRIVING. ALTHOUGH TIRE THREAD ON THE VEHICLE IS AT 87%, IT WAS RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE ALL FOUR TIRES AT TIME OF INSPECTION. WHEEL ALIGNMENT SHOWS THE VEHICLE IS WITHIN FACTORY GUIDELINES FOR THE VEHICLE. POSSIBLE ISSUE COULD BE FLAWS IN SHOCK/STRUT MANUFACTURING AS THE VEHICLE IS WELL WITHIN REPLACEMENT TIMEFRAME FOR THESE PARTS. *TR

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY - I WAS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED. THE CAR LOST SORT OF RESET ITSELF - DASH WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON (ACCORDING TO MY WIFE). RADIO/CD STOPPED MUSIC - ABS LIGHT WENT ON (THAT'S ALL I CAN SEE FROM PASSENGER SIDE). MY WIFE SAID OTHERS TOO BUT SHE WAS FOCUSED ON THE ROAD BECAUSE IT WAS A CONSTRUCTION ZONE. SHE WAS NERVOUS AND SAID THE CAR WAS NOT RESPONDING TO THROTTLE. LUCKILY ALL WENT BACK TO NORMAL AFTER 2 OR MAYBE 3 SECONDS. THE MUSIC CAME BACK ON ALSO. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR ANY SIGN OF TROUBLE. WE PULLED OVER AND I CHECKED THE FRONT TO SEE IF WE HIT SOMETHING THAT COULD HAVE CAUSED IT. RESTARTED THE CAR - ALL SEEMED NORMAL AND REACHED OUR DESTINATION. THIS WAS OUR FIRST 200 MILE TRIP OR MORE ON THIS CAR. 1 DAY AFTER ARRIVAL - I DID A ONCE OVER SAFETY CHECK (FLUIDS, TIRE PRESSURE, ETC) NOTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY. GOT MY OBD2 CODE READER AND IT HAD THE FOLLOWING U3003 U0140 U0428. SO I WILL TAKE THIS TO OUR DEALER FOR CHECKUP. *TR

DRIVING AT 70MPH, LOST ACCELERATION AND MULTIPLE ENGINE LIGHTS CAME ON. HAD TO MOVE OVER TO EMERGENCY LANE ON INTERSTATE AND DRIVING TO NEAREST EXIT AT APPROX 40MPH. CAR TOWED TO DEALER FOR REPAIR. *TR

DRIVING AT APPROX 45MPH, CAR LOST ACCELERATION, POWER STEERING, AND MULTIPLE ENGINE LIGHTS ON. CAR MOVED TO SITE OF THE ROAD AND TOWED TO DEALER. *TR

TOOK VEHICLE IN FOR TIRE ROTATION. NOTICED LOUD HUMMING NOISE IN FRONT TIRES AFTER ROTATION. TOOK CAR BACK TO MECHANIC TO LOOK AT IT. I WAS TOLD THE FRONT TIRES WERE CUPPED BUT WOULD POSE NO PROBLEM FOR DRIVING. GAS MILEAGE HAS GONE DOWN 2 MPG SINCE THEN. *TR

THE RIGHT FRONT HEADLAMP ASSY. GET'S MOISTURE IN IT THAT MADE THE HEADLAMP BULB BLOW OUT. *JS

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAD BEEN ON FOR A WEEK; THE DEALER SAID IT WAS NO BIG DEAL AND TO BRING IT IN AT ANY TIME. HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER ONE DAY AND OTHER WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE HOME AT A VERY LOW RATE OF SPEED AND HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALER. THE DEALER SAID IT WAS A BAD FUEL INJECTOR AND REPLACED IT. HOWEVER, NOW, FOUR MONTHS LATER, THE CAR IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM -- THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS COME BACK ON. THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN GETTING THE MAXIMUM MPG (ABOUT 10 PERCENT LESS) AND THERE IS A NOTICEABLE HESITATION WHEN THE CAR SHIFTS GEARS. I WILL BE BRINGING IT BACK TO THE DEALER. THIS IS VERY SIMILAR TO THE SAME COMPLAINT OF OTHERS REGARDING THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER -- THANK GOODNESS I WAS NOT ON A HIGHWAY. *TR

I HAD A MECHANIC ROTATE MY TIRES AND NOTICED THE FRONT TIRES WERE MAKING ALOT OF NOISE. I RETURNED TO THE MECHANIC FOR AN INSPECTION AND HE SAID THAT THE TIRES CURRENTLY ON THE FRONT THAT WERE ON THE REAR HAVE SEVERE CUPPING PROBABLY DUE TO A SUSPENSION PROBLEM. THE MECHANIC RECOMMENDED TAKING THE CAR TO THE DEALER ALTHOUGH THERE IS NO RECALL NOTICE FOR THE PROBLEM. I HAD THE MECHANIC ROTATE THE TIRES BACK. THE TIRES *TR

PREMATURE TIRE CUPPING OF REAR TIRES. ALL TIRES ROTATED ACCORDING TO MAZDA MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. RESULT IN TIRE ROAD NOISE, UNEVEN WEAR, EARLY REPLACEMENT. REAR CAMBER SETTING IS POSSIBLE ISSUE. *TR

MAZDA 3 SKYACTIVE 2012, 45,000 MI. DRIVING DOWN ON A DRY STREET, SUNNY DAY, GOING AT APPROX 35MPH WHEN SUDDENLY ENGINE STARTED REVVING HIGH BUT CAR WASN'T ACCELERATING. THIS WAS VERY DANGEROUS AS CAR WAS STALLING IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. THE AT, TCS/DSC, AND ENGINE LIGHTS CAME ON. PULLED OVER SAFELY ASAP TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON. TURNED OFF ENGINE, WAITED 2 MINUTES, RE-STARTED ENGINE AND LIGHTS WERE OFF, AND DROVE HOME SLOWLY. FOLLOWING MORNING, ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON BUT CAR SEEMS TO BE DRIVING NORMALLY. WILL TAKE TO DEALERSHIP ASAP. *TR

WE WERE JUST RETURNING FROM A TRIP OF 9 DAYS WHICH CONTAINED MANY HIGH SPEED HIGHWAY HOURS AND MOUNTAINOUS TERRAIN. CAR HAS 20000 MILES ON IT. AS WE PULLED OFF THE HIGHWAY AND ONTO A CITY STREET, ALL THREE LIGHTS ( ENGINE, AUTOTRANSMISSION, AND SLIPPAGE ICON) WENT OFF AND THERE WAS A BARE MINIMUM OF POWER TO MOVE CAR FORWARD. MAYBE 5 MPH. WE DRIFTED INTO PARKING LOT, RESTARTED CAR AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE TO DEALERSHIP WITHOUT INCIDENT ALTHOUGH THE LIGHTS REMAINED ON. IF THIS HAD HAPPENED WHILE PASSING A TRUCK ON THE HIGHWAY IT WOULD HAVE BEEN DISASTROUS. IN SHOP OVER A WEEK. *TR

UPON TURNING OFF THE ENGINE, THE EXHAUST FUME SMELLS LIKE ROTTEN EGG SMELL. THE MAZDA DEALER SAID THAT THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO BECAUSE THERE IS NOT A RECALL ON THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. THE MAZDA DEALER SUGGESTED USING ONLY SHELL GAS. THE MAZDA DEALER ALSO REPORTED THAT THERE IS NOT ENOUGH INCIDENTS YET FOR MAZDA TO RECALL THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. *TR

I WAS DRIVING SLOWLY IN TRAFFIC WHEN I NOTICED A LARGE WHITE SPIDER ABOUT THE SIZE OF MY THUMB COME OUT OF THE DASHBOARD (WHERE THE MPG DISPLAY IS LOCATED). THE FOLLOWING MORNING, I NOTICED ANOTHER SPIDER ON MY DASHBOARD NEAR THE VENT AT THE VERY FRONT. BOTH SPIDERS LOOKED EXACTLY LIKE THE WHITE SAC SPIDERS DESCRIBED IN THE MAZDA 6 RECALL. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TODAY TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT BECAUSE I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE PROBLEMS THESE SPIDERS ARE KNOWN TO CAUSE IN THE FUEL TANK. MAZDA REFUSED TO LOOK AT MY CAR STATING THAT MY MODEL WASN'T PART OF THE RECALL AND THEREFORE IT WAS NOT THEIR PROBLEM. GRANTED MY MODEL IS NOT ON THE RECALL LIST, I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AS THE RECALLED VEHICLES. I ASKED THEM TO WRITE, SIGN AND DATE A PAPER STATING THAT THEY ARE DECLINING TO LOOK INTO MY CAR'S PROBLEM IN THE OFF CHANCE THAT SOMETHING HAPPENS. I WANT TO BE SURE THAT MAZDA IS HELD LIABLE FOR REFUSING TO EVEN LOOK AT MY FUEL TANK. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON A CITY STREET, STOPPED FOR A RED LIGHT, THEN WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE IT WAS REALLY SLOW. I LOOKED AT THE DASH AND SAW THE TCS/DSC LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. AS I CONTINUED DRIVING THE ACCELERATION CONTINUED TO BE REALLY SLOW AND WOULDN'T GO ABOVE 2000 RPMS, TOP SPEED WAS 40MPH. I LIMPED HOME LIKE THIS WITH MY HAZARDS ON, PARKED FOR AN HOUR OR SO, THEN STARTED THE CAR AGAIN TO SEE IF THE LIGHT WAS STILL ON IT HAD GONE OFF SO I DROVE AROUND THE BLOCK AND IT RAN PERFECTLY FINE. I CALLED THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF I SHOULD BRING IT IN AND WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE A WASTE OF TIME IF THE LIGHT IS NOT CURRENTLY ON AND IT'S RUNNING FINE. WHEN I ASKED IF HE HAD HEARD OF THIS HAPPENING WITH THE 2012 MAZDA 3 SKYACTIV HE SAID A FEW TIMES. THAT ALONG WITH READING ON THIS SITE THAT THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS TELLS ME THIS IS NOT AN ISOLATED ISSUE. I'M JUST GLAD I WASN'T ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY BABY IN THE CAR. THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN VERY DANGEROUS. I'M SURE MAZDA DOESN'T WANT TO WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE IS INJURED OR KILLED BEFORE THEY DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS, RIGHT? *JS

TL-THE CONTACT OWNS 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG LIGHT ILLIMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE ERROR CODE B229A HAD TO BE CORRECTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,000. PAM

VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM CLASSIC MAZDA OR ORLANDO, FLORIDA IN DECEMBER OF 2012. ALL VEHICLE MAINTENANCE HAS BEEN PERFORMED ACCORDING TO DEALERSHIP RECOMMENDATIONS AT CLASSIC MAZDA OF ORLANDO, FLORIDA. VEHICLE WAS IN FOR SERVICE WITHIN THE PREVIOUS TWO DAYS AND HAD BEEN DRIVING NORMALLY WITH NO PROBLEMS NOTED AFTER INSPECTION. ON SATURDAY MORNING, MAY 17, 2014, VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN AND NOTED NO PROBLEMS. AFTER BEING PARKED FOR A FEW HOURS, VEHICLE WAS STARTED, AND IT ROLLED DOWN THE DRIVEWAY, ONLY TO BE STUCK AND UNABLE TO MOVE WHEN IN GEAR AND RELEASING THE CLUTCH. I CALLED MAZDA ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE WHO TOWED IT TO CLASSIC MAZDA ON 5/18/14. ON 5/19/14, MAZDA FOUND THAT THE CLUTCH HAD BEEN TOTALLY DESTROYED, AND WITH ONLY 17000 MILES ON VEHICLE. MAZDA IS ONLY WILLING TO PAY FOR PARTS AND LEAVE THE BIGGER EXPENSE OF LABOR TO THE OWNER OF APPROXIMATELY $600. THIS CLUTCH SHOULD LAST LONGER THAN 17000 MILES AND I BELIEVE IT TO BE DEFECTIVE AS THERE ARE MANY OTHER COMPLAINTS SIMILAR TO MINE EVERYWHERE. I BELIEVE MAZDA HAS DESIGNED A LESS THAN ACCEPTABLE CLUTCH TO BE IN USE ON THESE VEHICLES, AND SHOULD BE 100% LIABLE FOR REPAIR COSTS. I REQUEST A FORMAL INVESTIGATION INTO THIS CONCERN AS IT COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY IF AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHEN FAULT OCCURS. *JS

I WAS DRIVING ALONG A CITY STREET ON THE WAY TO A MALL WHEN I NOTICED THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING LIGHT COME ON. MY CAR THEN STARTED TO DECELERATE. I PRESSED ON THE GAS AND NOTICED THAT THE NEEDLE ON MY TACHOMETER WAS RUNNING HIGH INDICATING HIGH RATE OF RPM. I COULD NOT DRIVE FASTER THAN 35 MPH FOR FEAR OF REDLINING AND POSSIBLY DAMAGING THE ENGINE. I WENT BACK HOME AND PARKED MY CAR. LATER WHEN I STARTED MY CAR THE TRACTION CONTROL WARNING LIGHT HAD TURNED OFF AND I WAS ABLE TO DRIVE THE CAR NORMALLY AGAIN. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS MATTER THAT COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS ACCIDENT IF IT HAD HAPPENED ON A FREEWAY OR ON A MOUNTAIN ROAD. I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR, NOT KNOWING WHEN THIS MIGHT OCCUR AGAIN. I WILL BE HAVING THE CAR INSPECTED AT THE DEALERSHIP SINCE IT IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ALONG FINE @55MPH THEN THE DSC/TSC LIGHT CAME ON & THEN MY CAR HAD NO SPEED AT ALL, IT WOULDN'T MOVE EVEN WITH THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY PRESSED, I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED ON THE HIGHWAY!!! THIS IS THE 2ND TIME IT HAS HAPPENED IN THE LAST WEEK! I SEE SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS HERE ABOUT THE SAME THING. THE MAZDA DEALERSHIP STATES THERE IS NO RECALL ON THIS CAR! WHAT NOW??? TAKE A CHANCE & CONTINUE DRIVING IT??? PLEASE FIX THE ISSUE!!! THE VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED ASAP! LIVES ARE ON THE LINE. *TR

WHILE DOWNSHIFTING FROM 4TH TO 3RD AND/OR 5TH TO 4TH TO SLOW DOWN WITHOUT HAVING MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL (ONLY ON THE CLUTCH) MY 2012 MAZDA 3 TOURING 6 SPEED MT ACCELERATES VERY RAPIDLY AND JERKS ABOUT. IT HAPPENS FOR SEVERAL SECONDS AND THEN STOPS. IT'S ALMOST EVERY TIME I DOWNSHIFT. I BROUGHT IT TO THE ATTENTION OF THE MAZDA DEALER ON THE FIRST SERVICE APPOINTMENT AT 5000 MILES IN APRIL 2013. HOWEVER, THE SERVICE ADVISOR INFORMED ME THAT MECHANIC CHECKED THE PROBLEM AND FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE CAR THAT WOULD BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM. *TR

DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND CAR LOST POWER, EVEN WHEN PUSHING ON THE GAS PEDAL I COULD NOT GET THE SPEED TO GO PAST 40, VERY DANGEROUS ON A FREEWAY. HAD TO GET ALL THE WAY OVER TO GET OFF THE FREEWAY, GOING 40, WITH PEOPLE GOING 80 MILES PER HOUR AROUND ME! LUCKY I WAS NOT HIT! TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WAS ON AND STAYED ON THE ENTIRE TIME. PULLED OFF FREEWAY AND CALLED THE DEALER THEY HAD ME COME IN AND SAID THEY RESET THE COMPUTER BECAUSE THEY COULD NOT FIND AN ERROR CODE. THEN IT JUST HAPPENED AGAIN ON THE FREEWAY, I WAS CHANGING LANES AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND AGAIN I HAD NO POWER EVEN WITH THE GAS PEDAL PUSHED ALL THE WAY DOWN. IT WAS A SUNNY 75 DEGREE DAY SO NO REASON FOR IT TO COME ON. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY AND IS VERY DANGEROUS!! I TOOK INTO THE DEALER AND AGAIN THEY SAID NO ERROR CODE SO IF IT HAPPENS AGAIN BRING IT IN. I TRIED TO TELL THEM WHEN THIS HAPPENS IT IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE IT. THIS NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED BEFORE SOME ONE GETS INJURED OR KILLED BECAUSE OF THIS MALFUNCTION! *JS

HAD EXITED THE HIGHWAY, AND WAS ON THE SURFACE STREETS TO GO HOME. ROADS WERE DRY, MIDDLE OF DAY, TANK WAS 1/4 FULL, CAR WAS IN DRIVE (NOT IN TRIPTONIC MANUAL). STOPPED AT LIGHT, AND WHEN TRIED TO ACCELERATE CAR, IT ACTED FUNNY. AS APPROACHED 30 MPH, THE "TRACTION CONTROL" LIGHT CAME ON, CAR'S RPM WENT UP TO NEARLY 4000, AND LOST ABILITY TO ACCELERATE. FELT LIKE CAR WAS IN HYDROGLIDE OR SLIDING ON ICE. SEEMED LIKE ONLY IN 2ND GEAR. IN RESPONSE, I PUT CAR INTO MANUAL TRIPTONIC MODE, BUT NO GEARS WERE DISPLAYED ON THE DASHBOARD, AND BASED ON RPM METER, AND LACK OF CHANGE IN CAR'S RESPONSE, THIS MANUAL SHIFT COULD NOT FORCE SHIFT TO HIGHER GEAR EVEN THOUGH I TRIED TWICE. SLOWED AND PULLED TO SIDE OF ROAD WITH BLINKERS FLASHING. LIMPED CAR THE 1/2 MILE HOME AT 20 MPH, AND LET IT SIT FOR 90 MINUTES. RESTARTED CAR AND NO WARNING LIGHTS WERE ON. TOOK IT AROUND BLOCK, AND AGAIN WHEN APPROACHED 30 MPH, THE CAR LOST ALL ACCELERATION, RPMS WENT HIGH, AND NOW 3 WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON, "ENGINE", "AT" AND "TRACTION CONTROL". PARKED IN FRONT OF HOUSE AND CALL MAZDA ASSISTANCE FOR A TOW. *TR

I HAVE ONLY OWNED THIS VEHICLE FOR 10 MONTHS AND ON FEB 14, 2014 NOTICED THERE IS A CLUNKY SOUND AT THE BACK RIGHT SIDE OF THE CAR. TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND FOUND UP THAT ALL SWAY BAR BOLTS WERE LOOSE. SERVICE MANAGER INDICATED THAT THE FACTORY DID NOT TIGHTENED IT PROPERLY. FOLLOWING WEEK NOTICED THAT MY DASHBOARD ABOVE THE COMPUTER STUFF WAS LIFTING/WARPING. THEY HAD REPLACED AND THE SERVICE ADVISOR MENTIONED THAT I AM THE 5TH MAZDA 3 2012 OWNER TO TAKE IT IN WITH THE SAME ISSUE WITH THE DASHBOARD. I HOPE NOTHING ELSE WILL START TO FALL APART. *TR

HELLO, I WAS DRIVING DOWN A HIGHWAY GOING ABOUT 30-40 MPH IN THE PASSING LANE. I WENT TO ACCELERATE PAST A TRUCK WHEN I NOTICED I WASN'T GAINING ANY SPEED. I LOOKED DOWN AND THE ABS LIGHT WAS ON. THINKING THAT I MIGHT BE IN A LOWER GEAR AND MY AUTO TRANSMISSION WASN'T SHIFTING WELL I CHANGED IT OVER TO MANUAL. THERE WERE NO GEAR LIGHTS INDICATED ON THE DASH. I COULD NOT GET ANY POWER TO THE TRANSMISSION FROM THE ENGINE. I HAVE TO PULL OVER ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, WHILE STILL KIND OF ON THE ROAD CONSIDERING I HAD NO POWER. IN A DESPERATE ATTEMPT I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON AND EVERYTHING SEEMED TO BE RESET. I CALLED MAZDA TODAY AND THEY SEEMED ALMOST LIKE IT WAS NO BIG DEAL. WELL I CONSIDER THIS A BIG DEAL, LOSING TRANSMISSION POWER ON A HIGHWAY IS A BIG DEAL. ANYWAYS I SAW A POST A FEW DAYS AGO WITH THE SAME EXACT ISSUE. THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN! *TR

I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. ONCE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I PRESSED ON THE GAS AND THE CAR REVVED TO 3000 RPM BUT WAS BARELY MOVING AND WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF FIRST GEAR. I LOOKED AT MY SPEED AND NOTICED THE TCS PROBLEM LIGHT WAS ON. BY THIS TIME OTHER MOTORISTS WERE HONKING AT ME AT CURSING I'M SURE BUT I COULDN'T GET ANY SPEED TO PULL OVER QUICKLY. I PUT THE CAR IN MANUAL MODE, BUT THERE WERE NO NUMBERS THAT INDICATED WHAT GEAR I WAS IN. I HAVE NO CLUE WHY THE TCS LIGHT CAME ON AND PRETTY MUCH DISABLED MY CAR. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER INTO A MALL PARKING LOT WHERE I TURNED CAR OFF AND CALLED FOR HELP. HOWEVER, WHEN HELP ARRIVED, AND WE STARTED THE CAR BACK UP, THE TCS LIGHT WAS OFF AND EVERYTHING WORKED FINE. I DROVE THE CAR HOME. AFTER READING THAT OTHERS HAVE HAD THE SAME COMPLAINT AS I HAVE, I WILL MAKE SURE MAZDA WILL HAVE A LOOK AT MY CAR AND MAKE THEM AWARE THERE IS AN ISSUE.

OVERNIGHT, THE MOONROOF GLASS BROKE ALONG THE FORWARD LEADING EDGE PARALLEL TO THE METAL BRACE THAT IS IN CONTACT WITH THE GLASS BENEATH IT. UPON CLOSING THE DOOR, THE FRACTURED GLASS BOWED UP AND PIECES OF THE SHATTERED GLASS ENDED UP ON THE FRONT EDGE OF THE ROOF. PICTURES ARE AVAILABLE, IF NEEDED. NOTE: NO DEBRIS WAS FOUND ON THE MOONROOF SUGGESTING THERE WAS NO IMPACT FROM ANY OUTSIDE SOURCE. NOTE: IT WAS NEGATIVE SIX DEGREES FAHRENHEIT WHEN DISCOVERED. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ABOUT 60 MPH ON THE FREEWAY I HEARD A LOUD BANG AND SHATTERING SOUND FOLLOWED BY RUSHING WIND. THE SOUND WAS RIGHT BY MY HEAD AND I SAW SHARDS OF GLASS FLYING IN MY REARVIEW MIRROR. I PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO SEE WHAT HAPPENED. THE SUNROOF HAD SHATTERED ON MY 2012 MAZDA 3. I ONLY HAD ABOUT 20000 MILES ON IT. NO ONE WAS INJURED BECAUSE I HAD THE CLOTH INTERIOR CLOSED, BUT HAD I BEEN DRIVING I COULD HAVE EASILY TAKEN GLASS IN THE FACE AND CRASHED. MY SUNROOF WAS DEFECTIVE AND MAZDA CLAIMS IT HAS NO RESPONSIBILITY IN THE MATTER. THEY SAY IT MUST HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY A PEBBLE EVEN THOUGH THERE WERE NO OTHER CARS AROUND AND I WAS DRIVING AT 5:30 IN THE MORNING. THEIR REASON FOR THIS BELIEF IS THAT IF THEY ARE DEFECTIVE THEY "USUALLY BREAK EARLIER." *TR

WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT, ALL THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IN THE CAR SHUT OFF FOR A SPLIT SECOND, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE HEADLIGHTS, AUDIO SYSTEM, INTERIOR LIGHTS, AND DASHBOARD. THE ELECTRONICS RECOVERED AFTER THE SPLIT SECOND, AND THE CAR RAN NORMALLY. THE ENGINE WAS NOT AFFECTED. THIS ISSUE RECURRED ONE MONTH LATER. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA, MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH, THE POWER STEERING ASSIST FAILED WITH THE ILLUMINATION OF THE WARNING INDICATOR. THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME DIFFICULT TO TURN. THE VEHICLE WAS MANEUVERED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WHERE THE ENGINE WAS TURNED OFF. THE MALFUNCTION CONTINUED UPON RESTARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

TOOK DELIVERY OF 2012 MAZDA3 I GRAND TOURING WITH 19,293MILES ON IT. NOTICED DRIVER'S SEAT ROCKED BACK AND FOURTH UNDER ACCELERATION AND BRAKING. TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE I GOT IT AND WAS TOLD TO TAKE IT TO MAZDA DEALER AS IT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO LOCAL MAZDA DEALER ON FEB 17 2014 AND THEY NOTICED THE ROCKING IN THE SEAT AND REPLACED THE SEAT TRACK. AFTER REPLACING THE TRACK, THE SEAT STILL ROCKED AND THE DEALER ACKNOWLEDGED THE FACT IT WAS STILL DOING IT. THEY CONTACTED MAZDA TECHNICAL SUPPORT WHO GOT BACK WITH THEM TODAY, FEB 21 2014, AND MAZDA TECH SUPPORT SAID IT IS NORMAL FOR THE SEAT TO DO THIS. I FIND IT VERY UNCOMFORTABLE THAT EVERY TIME I HIT THE BRAKES MY SEAT ROCKS FORWARD, WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN IN AN ACCIDENT? IS THE SEAT GOING TO HOLD UP? I HOPE SOMEONE TAKES A HARD LOOK AT THIS ISSUE, THERE ARE NUMEROUS ACCOUNTS OF THIS ALL OVER THE MAZDA3 FORUMS AS WELL, WITH SIMILAR RESPONSES FROM MAZDA. I PERSONALLY THINK IT'S A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON FOUR LANE HIGHWAY, CAR SLOWED AND FAILED TO RESPOND TO GAS PEDAL. COULD NOT SHIFT GEARS IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION. PULLED TO SIDE OF ROADWAY AND CALLED FOR TOW TO DEALER. DEALER FOUND FRONT SURFACE OF CLUTCH DISK TO BE COMPLETELY WORN AWAY, THUS ALLOWING CLUTCH TO SLIP. DANGER WAS INABILITY TO MAINTAIN FLOW WITH HEAVY TRAFFIC. DUE TO LOW MILEAGE, SUSPECT DEFECT IN PARTS OR ASSEMBLY. *TR

WHILE TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 35 - 40 MPH (ACCELERATING) ON A LONG WINDING WOODED RURAL INTERSTATE ONRAMP, NO OTHER VEHICLE TRAFFIC NEARBY, THE SUNROOF (CLOSED AT THE TIME) LITERALLY BUCKLED UPWARD AND EXPLODED OUTWARD. IT WAS VERY LOUD LIKE A SHOTGUN. AT THE TIME IT HAPPENED, IT GAVE BOTH MYSELF AND MY DAUGHTER THE IMPRESSION THAT SOMEONE HAD FIRED A GUN AT US AND WE DID NOT STOP UNTIL WE REACHED THE NEXT EXIT. WE WERE VERY RATTLED BY THE INCIDENT. THERE WAS DEFINITELY NO PREVIOUS DAMAGE TO THE GLASS AND NO ROCK OR OTHER FOREIGN OBJECT INVOLVED. THE GLASS THAT WAS EXPELLED FLEW UP AND OUT BEHIND THE VEHICLE EXCEPT FOR SOME GLASS PIECES THAT STAYED ON THE ROOF AND THE TRUNK. VERY LITTLE OF THE APPROXIMATELY 8"X10" SECTION OF MISSING GLASS FELL IN THE TRAY BENEATH. IF THIS HAD HAPPENED WHILE WE WERE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC AT HIGHER SPEEDS, OR EVEN IF MY TEENAGE DAUGHTER HAD BEEN DRIVING AT THE TIME, I'M NOT SURE IT WOULDN'T HAVE CAUSED A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. *TR

AFTER SLOWING TO MAKE A U-TURN ON A BOULEVARD, THE POWERTRAIN WENT INTO LIMP MODE AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE WITH THE WHEELS TURNED FAIRLY SHARPLY TO THE LEFT. CAR WAS FULLY WARM; VERY LIGHT ACCELERATION IN 2ND GEAR (MANUAL TRANSMISSION, SKYACTIVE MODEL). NOT EVEN CLOSE TO WHEELSPIN POSSIBLE. DRY PAVEMENT AND BARELY PUSHED GAS PEDAL. RAN VERY ROUGHLY BUT HAD ENOUGH POWER TO PULL INTO A PARKING LOT. TRIED PUSHING TRACTION CONTROL BUTTON TO TOGGLE OFF WITHOUT RESULT. TURNED CAR OFF AND RE-STARTED AND CAR RAN FINE. DO NOT HAVE A CODE READER TO CHECK TO SEE IF THIS INCIDENT SET A CODE OR NOT. APPROX 900 MORE MILES PUT ON WITHOUT INCIDENT. *TR

I DRIVE A 2012 MAZDA I TOURING SKYACTIVE. WHILE DRIVING HOME ABOUT 45 MPH WHEN I WAS CAME TO A STREET LIGHT. AS I APPLIED MY BRAKES THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTED DOWN HARD, THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND THE TRANSMISSION DISENGAGED, WHICH FORCED ME TO PULL TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE TRANSMISSION TYPE IS AN ELECTRIC AUTO/MANUAL. WITH THE CAR STILL RUNNING, I PUT THE CAR IN TO MANUAL MODE AND NOTHING HAPPENED (NO POWER). ONLY AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF AND RESTARTING IT DID THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT GO OFF AND THE CAR RAN AS NORMAL. THIS IS NOTHING I WOULD WANT TO HAPPEN WHILE ON A THRUWAY. ALSO, OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS I HAVE NOTICED DOWNSHIFTING HARD ONE IN A WHILE, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO TAKE IT TO A DEALER. AFTER TO NIGHT, I WILL BE TAKING MY CAR OVER TO THE DEALER IN THE MORNING. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE TRACTION SKID WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY SHIFTED INTO A LOW GEAR AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. THE FAILURE WAS RECURRING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS HOWEVER, THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 26,900. *TR

CAR HIT COYOTE AT 75MPH. CAR NEVER WAVERED FROM WHAT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO DO. IT SAVED OUR LIVES THAT NIGHT. HEADLIGHT NOT HIT BY COYOTE BUT BARES A LARGE "BLIND SPOT" ON DRIVERS SIDE MAKING CAR UNSAFE TO DRIVE AFTER DARK. CAR TAKEN TO DEALERSHIP, DEALERSHIP SAYS HEAD LIGHT IS WITHIN SPECS AND WAS COMPARED TO ANOTHER CAR OF THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL YEAR AND THE "BLIND SPOT" IS NORMAL. THIS PARTICULAR MAZDA 3 "DOESN'T LIKE TIRES". THAT IS WHAT THE GUY WHO PUT ON THE 3RD FULL SET OF TIRES TOLD ME. MILEAGE 46,000 THE CAR KEEPS BREAKING MOTOR MOUNTS AND MAZDA CLAIMS THIS IS ALL FROM THE ACCIDENT NOW 15 MONTHS AGO. THEY REFUSE TO FIX HEADLIGHT AND I HAVE BEEN TOLD NOT TO DRIVE THE CAR AFTER DARK AS MY INSURANCE COMPANY MAY FIGHT IF I SHOULD HAVE AN ACCIDENT DUE TO THE FAULTY HEAD LIGHT. I HAVE NEVER KNOW A CAR MANUFACTURER TO OFFER HEADLIGHTS WITH BLIND SPOTS BUT I HAVE AN INVOICE FROM THE DEALERSHIP SAYING THIS IS NORMAL ON THE MAZDA 3. THESE CARS ARE NOT MADE TO TAKE THE IMPACT OF A COYOTE SO I CAN ONLY IMAGINE WHAT WOULD HAPPEN TO THE MAZDA 3 SHOULD IT HIT SOMETHING LARGER THAN A DOG. *TR

DRIVING AT A STEADY 65 MPH, THE CAR SUDDENLY LOST POWER AND RAPIDLY BEGAN DECELERATING. TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON. PRESSING THE ACCELERATOR DOWN RESULTED IN ONLY A MINOR CHANGE IN RPM. NARROWLY AVOIDED A COLLISION AND MADE IT TO THE SHOULDER. I TOOK THE NEXT EXIT AND JUST MADE IT HOME AS THE CAR WAS BARELY ABLE TO CLIMB THE SLIGHTEST GRADE. IT FELT LIKE I WAS PILOTING A LARGE MOTOR BOAT. AT HOME, I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND RESTARTED. TCS LIGHT CAME ON AND THEN OFF AS IT NORMALLY DOES. THE LIGHT STAYED OFF AND THE CAR THEN PERFORMED NORMALLY. *TR

I WAS DRIVING MY 2012 MAZDA 3 SKYACTIV AND A COUPLE SPIDERS CAME OUT OF NOWHERE ALMOST CAUSING ME TO CRASH. I KNOW, STUPID. I WAS ABLE TO IDENTIFY THE SPIDERS AS THE SAME SPIDER THAT MAZDA HAD ALREADY RECALLED FOR OTHER MODEL YEARS, YET DID NOT FOR OURS. I'M A LITTLE ANNOYED THERE ARE STILL SPIDERS IN THERE CARE AND MAY CAUSE FUEL PROBLEMS, AND I DON'T BELIEVE I SHOULD HAVE TO PAY TO HAVE THEM REMOVED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA, MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH THE VEHICLE DOWNSHIFTED INDEPENDENTLY, CAUSING THE VEHICLE DECELERATE WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER HOWEVER, THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 22,000. UPDATED 12-30-13 *BF

VEHICLE WAS TRAVELING ON HIGHWAY GOING 45MPH WHEN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DOWNSHIFTED SUDDENLY TO FIRST GEAR AND WOULD NOT UPSHIFT. ATTEMPTED TO MANUALLY SHIFT GEARS AND GEAR DISPLAY THAT SHOWS THE GEAR NUMBER WAS BLANK. TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON, NO ENGINE CODES WERE TRIGGERED. CAR OPERATED NORMALLY UPON RESTART. *TR

I HAVE A '12 MAZDA MAZDA3 ITOURING HATCHBACK W/2.0L SKYACTIV I-4 (BL GENERATION) WITH SKYACTIV 6MT. WHEN STARTING OFF FROM A STOP IN 1ST GEAR AND SHIFTING INTO 2ND GEAR (CLUTCH PEDAL COMPLETELY DEPRESSED BEFORE SHIFTER WAS PULLED OUT OF 1ST, NO GAS PEDAL WAS APPLIED) TRANSMISSION WOULD GRIND WHEN SHIFTER IS BEING PULLED INTO 2ND GEAR. GRIND CAN BE HEARD INSIDE AND OUTSIDE, AND CAN BE FELT IN SHIFTER. GRIND WOULD CONTINUE FOR LESS THAN A SECOND THEN WOULD POP FULLY INTO 2ND GEAR. ALONG WITH ISSUE, WHENEVER GRIND DOES NOT OCCUR, SHIFTING INTO 2ND GEAR REQUIRES SIGNIFICANTLY MORE FORCE TO FULLY ENGAGE COMPARED TO REVERSE, 1ST, 3RD, 4TH, 5TH AND 6TH GEARS. MAZDA DEALERSHIP COULD NOT DUPLICATE SYMPTOM, THEREFORE DECLARING AN "NPF" OR "NO PROBLEM FOUND." *TR

WHILE DRIVING AT APPROX. 45 MPH WITH CRUISE CONTROL ENGAGED; THE HEADLIGHTS TURNED OFF FOR ABOUT 2 SECONDS THEN CAME BACK ON. WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS CAME BACK ON THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE WHOLE ISSUE GAVE THE APPEARANCE OF PART OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM LOSING POWER AND THE POWER THEN BEING RESTORED. DURING THE INCIDENT THE ENGINE DID NOT APPEAR TO LOSE POWER, NOR DID THE CRUISE CONTROL DISENGAGE. *JS

AFTER TAKING A LEFT HAND TURN ONTO A LOCAL ROAD,I NOTICED THAT MY CAR WAS DECELERATING DESPITE THE FACT I WAS PRESSING ON THE GAS. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT ON THE DASH CAME ON AND THE CAR APPEARED TO BE STUCK IN 1ST OR 2ND GEAR; I COULD NOT GO FASTER THAN 40 MPH WITHOUT THE RPMS GOING TOO HIGH. THIS CAR HAS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. I TRIED TURNING OFF THE TRACTION CONTROL BY PRESSING ITS BUTTON, BUT THIS DID NOT WORK. I ALSO TRIED SWITCHING TO MANUAL MODE BUT COULDN'T GET THE CAR TO SHIFT OR THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT TO SHUTOFF. I FINALLY HAD TO PULL OVER AND RESTART THE CAR TO GET THE LIGHT TO TURN OFF AND THE TRANSMISSION TO ACT NORMALLY. I HAVE SEEN OTHERS POST A SIMILAR PROBLEM, THOUGH THEY WERE IN MUCH MORE SERIOUS ENVIRONMENTS - ON THE HIGHWAY GOING 70 AND ALL OF A SUDDEN HAVING TO PULL ACROSS TRAFFIC AND RESTART THE CAR BECAUSE OF THIS WEIRD TRANSMISSION-TRACTION CONTROL ISSUE. THIS CREATES FOR AN INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS SITUATION AND I AM PETRIFIED OF THIS HAPPENING AGAIN IN A SIMILAR SCENARIO. THIS IS SOMETHING MAZDA NEEDS TO ADDRESS IMMEDIATELY. *TR

I WAS DRIVING IN CITY IN THE EVENING TEMP. ABOUT 65-70 F,DRY AND SMOOTH ROAD(MY DAILY ROUTE TO WORK) IN STEADY SPEED OF I WOULD SAY 45 MPH, TRYING TO CHANGE LANE MY CAR TRACTION LIGHT WENT ON AND ENGINE LIGHT AND AT LIGHT BELOW MY GEAR SCREEN, MY CAR LOCKED MY TRANSMISSION,CAR WAS IN DRIVE MODE SO I PUT ON MANUAL TO TRY CHANGE GEAR MANUALLY BUT DID NOT CHANGE GEAR, I WAS STUCK ON ONE GEAR AND I COULD NOT SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I WOULD LOOSE MY RPM MIDDLE OF THE ROAD, I DROVE ABOUT 2 MILE TILL I HAD SAFE PLACE TO STOP, PULLED OVER TURN OFF THE CAR AND WAIT FOR FEW MINUTES,THEN TURN ENGINE BACK ON,TRACTION LIGHT WAS OFF SO AS THE AT LIGHT BUT ENGINE LIGHT WAS STILL ON,CAR WAS BEHAVING NORMAL AND I COULD DRIVE IT HOME, NEXT DAY I TOOK IT TO DEALER I TURNED IT OFF FOR WAITING TO CHECK-IN MY CAR WHEN THE DEALER SERVICE PERSONAL TURNED IT ON AS SHE SAID THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS OFF TOO, BE SHE SAID WE KEEP IT TO MAKE SURE ITS FINE,I GOT A RENTAL CAR FROM THEM,THEY TOLD ME IF SOMETHING IS WRONG MAZDA WILL PAY FOR RENTAL, THEY KEPT THE CAR OVERNIGHT,MECHANIC DROVE IT WITH HIM HOME, DID NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT,THEY CONTACT MAZDA AND REMOTELY CHECKED THE SKYACTIV COMPUTER, DID NOT FIND ANYTHING EITHER, THEY UPDATE THE COMPUTER SOFTWARE AS THEY TOLD ME AND THEY WERE GUESSING IT WAS A COMPUTER GLITCH BUT THEY WAVED THE RENTAL CAR FOR DAY AND HALF!! SINCE THEN IT NEVER HAPPENED AGAIN,I EVEN TESTED THE TRACTION FUNCTION IN SLIPPERY ROAD AND WORKS FINE. *TR

DATE & MILEAGE APPROXIMATE. I WAS DRIVING 35MPH AND SPED UP TO MERGE 1 LANE TO MY RIGHT SO I WOULDN'T MISS MY TURN. I SPED UP, MAYBE TO 40 AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WENT ON AND THERE WAS NO ACCELERATION AT THAT POINT. I AM GLAD I DIDN'T GET REAR ENDED BUT DID GET FLIPPED OFF FOR CUTTING SOMEONE OFF AND SLOWING DOWN. I MADE MY TURN AND HIT THE TRACTION CONTROL BUTTON BUT IT STAYED LIT. I HAVE AN AUTOMATIC WITH THE MANUAL OPTION, I TRIED DRIVING MANUALLY,THE LIGHT DIDN'T GO OFF. I THEN PULLED OVER TRIED THE TRACTION BUTTON AGAIN, IT STAYED LIT. THE WEATHER CONDITION WAS WARM AND NICE OUT. I TURNED THE CAR OFF FOR A FEW MINUTES, STARTED IT, LIGHT WAS OFF AND IT DROVE FINE. IF THIS HAPPENED AND THE DRIVER BEHIND ME HADN'T PAID ATTENTION I WOULD HAVE BEEN HIT! I DON'T WANT TO THINK ABOUT HAVING TO CROSS A STREET WHERE THE ONCOMING CAR HAD RIGHT OF WAY AND MY CAR DIDN'T ACCELERATE. ON ANOTHER NOTE I HAVE HAD MY CAR UNLOCK ITSELF 3 TIMES, WHEN I KNOW IT WAS LOCKED WITH THE FOB. THE FOB IS NOT DAMAGED IN ANY WAY. TWICE IN SAME LOCATION WEEKS APART. IT WAS LOCKED, BEEPED THE LIGHTS FLASHED.MY KEYS WERE SET DOWN UNTOUCHED AFTER THAT, NOT IN MY POCKET MOVING AROUND BUT ON THE COUNTER. FIRST TIME I THOUGHT I MUST HAVE FORGOTTEN; MY CAR GOT RANSACKED. SECOND TIME I KNEW I LOCKED IT, I TOLD MYSELF MAYBE THE CAT STEPPED PERFECTLY ON THE KEY FOB, ON JUST THE UNLOCK BUTTON THAT NIGHT. MY CAR GOT RANSACKED AGAIN BUT TO THEIR SURPRISE NOTHING WAS IN THE CAR AS EVERYTHING WAS STOLEN THE FIRST #@#& TIME! THE THIRD TIME I HAD A WITNESS WATCH ME LOCK THE CAR WITH THE FOB AND I EVEN CHECKED ALL THE HANDLES-LOCKED. WE LEFT THE RESTAURANT, AGAIN UNLOCKED. I CANT LEAVE ANYTHING IN MY CAR BECAUSE I FEAR IT MAY HAPPEN AGAIN.. I WONDER IF SOMEONE'S KEY FOB IS ON THE SAME FREQUENCY AND STRANGERS ARE UNLOCKING IT? IM GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP IN A FEW DAYS. IM AFRAID TO DRIVE AND PARK MY CAR. *TR

WHEN I DROVE THE CAR, THE POWER ASSIST LOST WHICH MADE ME SO HARD TO TURN AND CONTROL THE STEERING WHEEL. *TR

MY CAR IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. I WAS DRIVING IN TRAFFIC ON THE HIGHWAY (ABOUT 20 MPH) AND NOTICED THAT WHEN I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR, THE CAR DID NOT ACCELERATE OR SHIFT NORMALLY. INSTEAD, THE CAR STAYED IN LOW GEAR, AND THE RPM REACHED OVER 4000. AT THIS POINT, I NOTICED. THE STABILITY CONTROL LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD WAS STAYING ON, INDICATING A PROBLEM WITH THE CAR'S STABILITY CONTROL. ONCE I REACHED A PLACE I COULD STOP, I TURNED OFF THE CAR AND RESTARTED - THE PROBLEM APPEARED TO HAVE GONE AWAY - NO MORE LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD AND NO MORE WEIRD ENGINE SPEEDS/FAILURE TO SHIFT GEARS. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THIS BECAUSE IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON COMPLAINT BOTH ON THE NHTSA SITE AND ON MAZDA FORUM WEBSITES. I BELIEVE AN INVESTIGATION INTO THIS PROBLEM IS WARRANTED, AS IT REPRESENTS A DEFINITE SAFETY RISK, AFFECTING THE CAR'S ABILITY TO ACCELERATE APPROPRIATELY. *TR

I HAVE AN AUTOMATIC SKYACTIV 2012 5DR HATCHBACK. I WAS PULLING OUT ON A BACK ROAD THAT WAS 60MPH AND AS SOON AS I PRESSED THE GAS TO SPEED UP WITH TRAFFIC IT WAS AS IF THE CAR LOST ALL POWER. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR SLOWLY ACCELERATED AS I HAD THE GAS PRESSED TO THE FLOOR. IT VERY SLOWLY SPED UP TO 60MPH AND WOULD NOT GO ANY FASTER. I TRIED PRESSING THE TRACTION CONTROL BUTTON TO TURN IT OFF AND NOTHING HAPPENED. MY WIFE AND I GOT LUNCH AND AFTERWARDS IT WORKED FINE. LAST TIME I WAS AT THE DEALERSHIP THEY TOLD ME THERE WAS A RECALL FOR THE STALLING ISSUE AND THAT THEY HAD FIXED IT. THIS WAS ABOUT A MONTH OR SO BEFORE I EXPERIENCED THE STALL. BEFORE THEN I HAD NOT HAD ANY ISSUES WITH STALLING, JUST WITH PULLING OUT ONTO ROADS. THAT LEADS ME TO MENTION THAT THIS CAR DOES NOT DO WELL WHEN PULLING OUT ONTO ROADS. THE CAR DOES NOT RESPOND WELL. IT LAGS AND THEN WHEN IT REALIZES YOU HAVE YOUR FOOT PRESSED ON THE GAS IT THROWS YOU BACK INTO YOUR SEAT. IT'S AS IF THE CAR IS IN 3RD GEAR WHEN YOU PULL OUT AND THEN THROWS ITSELF INTO 1ST GEAR. THE CAR FEELS VERY UNSAFE. I WISH I WOULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT MAZDA'S 2012 MAZDA3 SINCE, AFTERALL, IT WAS THEIR FIRST ATTEMPT AT THEIR NEW SKYACTIV ENGINE. *TR

MY 2012 MAZDA 3 SKYACTIV HATCHBACK WITH THE 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION IS EXHIBITING UNINTENDED ACCELERATION. AFTER DOWNSHIFTING INTO 2ND OR 3RD GEAR, OR AFTER COASTING IN ONE OF THOSE GEARS WITH THE CLUTCH DISENGAGED, THE ENGINE REVS AND THE CAR "SURGES" FORWARD UPON RE-ENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH. WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS ONLY BEING SLIGHTLY PUSHED, BUT THE CAR ACTS AS IF IT HAS BEEN PUSHED ALMOST TO THE FLOOR. DEPENDING ON THE POSITION OF THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ENGINE WILL EITHER REV TO 3000 TO 4000 RPM, OR THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FORWARD UNTIL EITHER THE BRAKE OR CLUTCH PEDAL IS PRESSED. THIS ISSUE WAS PRESENTED TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND I TOLD THEM THAT YOU HAVE TO DRIVE IN THOSE CONDITIONS IN ORDER TO RE-CREATE THE PROBLEM. I ALSO TOLD THEM THAT I"VE BEEN DRIVING MANUALS FOR THE LAST 28 YEARS AND DON'T THINK ITS A DRIVER ISSUE, ESPECIALLY SINCE THERE ARE MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS OF THIS SAME ISSUE ON THIS SITE AND OTHER MAZDA FORUMS. THIS NEEDS TO BE TAKEN SERIOUSLY BY MAZDA!!!!!!!!!! *TR

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY THE VEHICLE ALL OF A SUDDEN LOST POWER AND BEGAN TO SLOW DOWN. THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT TURNED ON AT THIS TIME. PUSHING THE ACCELERATOR DID NOTHING. WHEN I SWITCHED THE MANUAL MODE FOR THE TRANSMISSION THE GEAR WAS NOT DISPLAYED ON THE DASHBOARD AND TRYING TO UP OR DOWNSHIFT DID NOTHING. AFTER PULLING OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD I WAS ABLE TO PLACE THE TRANSMISSION IN PARK. I LIFTED THE HOOD AND CHECKED FOR FLUID LEAKS OR SPILLS OF WHICH THERE WERE NONE. AFTER TURNING OFF THE CAR AND WAITING A COUPLE OF MINUTES I TURNED IT BACK ON AND NOW HAD THE TRACTION CONTROL, AT, AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS LIT. AFTER PUTTING THE TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE AND PUSHING THE ACCELERATOR THE VEHICLE WAS EXTREMELY SLUGGISH IN ACCELERATION AND WOULD SHIFT THROUGH THE FIRST FOUR GEARS BUT AT RPMS MUCH HIGHER THAN NORMAL. I WAS ABLE TO LIMP THE VEHICLE HOME AS THE DEALERSHIP WAS ALREADY CLOSED. AFTER LETTING THE VEHICLE SIT FOR 15 MINUTES OR SO I TURNED IT BACK ON AND NOW ONLY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS LIT. WILL BE TAKING TO THE DEALER IN THE MORNING. *TR

THERE IS A ROTTEN EGG SMELL COMING FROM THE EXHAUST PIPE FROM THE CAR. MAZDA DEALER IS UNABLE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM WHEN I WENT BACK FOR SERVICE. I CHANGE GAS TO SHELL AS RECOMMENDED BY THE DEALER, AND THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. DEALER SAID THAT THIS IS COMON PROBLEM AND BLAMED IT ON THE GASOLINE BLEND. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IT WAS DIFFICULT TO START THE VEHICLE. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS STARTED AND WHILE DRIVING 15 MPH, THE POWER STEERING, TRACTION CONTROL, AND ANTI-LOCK BRAKES FAILED. MOMENTS LATER, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL BECAME UNRESPONSIVE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURES RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS AND THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE LOCATED. THE FAILURES RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS AWAITING ADDITIONAL DIAGNOSTICS. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 16,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

MY 2012 MAZDA 3 SKYACTIV HATCHBACK WITH THE 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION IS EXHIBITING UNINTENDED ACCELERATION. THE SYMPTOMS EXHIBITED ARE CONSISTENT WITH MULTIPLE OTHER REPORTS IN THIS SYSTEM. AFTER DOWNSHIFTING INTO 2ND OR 3RD GEAR, OR AFTER COASTING IN ONE OF THOSE GEARS WITH THE CLUTCH DISENGAGED, THE ENGINE REVS AND THE CAR "SURGES" FORWARD UPON RE-ENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH. WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS ONLY BEING SLIGHTLY PUSHED, BUT THE CAR ACTS AS IF IT HAS BEEN PUSHED ALMOST TO THE FLOOR. DEPENDING ON THE POSITION OF THE CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ENGINE WILL EITHER REV TO 3000 TO 4000 RPM, OR THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FORWARD UNTIL EITHER THE BRAKE OR CLUTCH PEDAL IS PRESSED. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN CONFIRMED BY MAZDA AFTER MULTIPLE TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR SERVICE. UPON THE LAST VISIT, A DATA RECORDER WAS INSTALLED AND RECORDED 7 SPECIFIC UNINTENDED ACCELERATION EVENTS BETWEEN THE DATES OF 11/13/12 AND 11/20/12. ACCORDING TO AN EMAIL I RECEIVED FROM THE DISTRICT SERVICE & PARTS MANAGER FOR DISTRICT 2 OF MAZDA NORTH AMERICA OPERATIONS (MNAO) ON 12/23/12, "THE CONCERN FOUND ON THE DATA RECORDINGS TAKEN FROM YOUR VEHICLE WERE FOUND TO BE A PCM CALIBRATION ISSUE. MAZDA CORPORATION IS WORKING ON A NEW CALIBRATION FOR THE PCM WITH AN UNKNOWN TIME OF COMPLETION." WHEN I REQUESTED THAT MY VEHICLE BE REPLACED WITH ANOTHER OF THE SAME MODEL, THIS WAS THE RESPONSE FROM THE SAME DISTRICT SERVICE & PARTS MANAGER: "SINCE THE CALIBRATION OF THE PCM IS THE SAME ON A 2013 LIKE MODEL WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION IT WOULD NOT BE ADVISED TO TRADE YOU INTO THAT VEHICLE AS IT COULD POTENTIALLY EXHIBIT THE SAME CONCERN DEPENDING ON YOUR DRIVING HABITS AND CONDITIONS." I AM CURRENTLY AWAITING A RESPONSE FROM MNAO'S MEDIATION DEPARTMENT REGARDING EITHER REPLACING MY CAR WITH ANOTHER MODEL, OR BUYING BACK THE CAR FROM ME. *TR

APPROXIMATELY TWO OR THREE TIMES A WEEK WHEN DOWNSHIFTING OUT OF A RIGHT OR LEFT HAND CURVE OR TURN, MY 2012 MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAZDA 3 HATCHBACK WILL ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN. THIS IS CHARACTERIZED BY A VARYING INCREASE OF RPMS: 2100 RPMS TO 4500 RPMS, DEPENDING ON THE INCIDENT, AND A SUDDEN LURCHING OR SURGING FORWARD OF THE VEHICLE ITSELF. WHEN APPROACHING CURVES OR TURNS, AT 30 OR 40 MPH, THAT DO NOT HAVE TO BE TAKEN AT A COMPLETE STOP, I ENGAGE THE CLUTCH, APPLY THE BRAKES, AND SLOW THE VEHICLE TO 15-20 MPH. UPON COMING OUT OF THE TURN I SHIFT THE VEHICLE INTO SECOND GEAR. WHEN I SLOWLY RELEASE THE CLUTCH, WITHOUT DEPRESSING THE GAS PEDAL AT ALL, THE CAR'S ENGINE WILL REV, RPMS WILL SURGE TO AS HIGH AS 4000 - 4500, AND THE CAR WILL LURCH FORWARD UNTIL THE CLUTCH IS ONCE AGAIN DEPRESSED. THESE INCIDENTS ARE RANDOM AND ARE NOT DEPENDENT ON SPEED, WEATHER CONDITIONS, OR LOCATION. THESE INCIDENTS HAVE ONLY BEEN DUPLICATED WITH A MINIMAL INCREASE OF RPMS AND NO LURCHING FORWARD WHEN A MECHANIC IS PRESENT. THESE INCIDENTS CAN NOT BE DUPLICATED FOR THE DEALERSHIP AT THEIR FULLEST AND MOST DANGEROUS. *TR

WHEN DOWNSHIFTING (MANUAL TRANSMISSION) FROM 3RD TO 2ND AS I WAS SLOWING DOWN BECAUSE OF A RED LIGHT, THE ENGINE RPM WENT WAY UP, MAYBE AROUND 4,000 RPM. I PRESSED THE CLUTCH TO AVOID THE CAR JERKING FORWARD AND HITTING THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. THIS WAS THE THIRD TIME THIS ACTUALLY HAPPENED. I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW AND HAVE ONLY OWNED IT 5 MONTHS. *TR

WHEN THE CAR DECELERATES (BRAKING OR DOWN-SHIFTING) THE HEADLIGHTS FLASH. WHEN I TAKE THE CAR BACK TO MAZDA SERVICE, THEY TELL ME THAT THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE THAT IS EFFECTING MANY OF THE NEW SKYACTIV ENGINES. THEY SAY THAT THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT THAT IS MAKING THE LIGHTS FLASH. THEY STATE THAT MAZDA ENGINEERS HAVE NOT GIVEN THEM A FIX FOR IT YET, SO THEY CAN'T FIX IT. I BELIEVE THIS IS A REAL SAFTEY HAZARD. PEOPLE ON THE HIGHWAY THINK I AM FLASHING MY LIGHTS AT THEM. I BOUGHT A SECOND CAR (SAME MODEL AND YEAR) AT THE SAME TIME AND IT DOESN'T HAVE THIS PROBLEM. WHEN I TELL THIS TO MAZDA, THEY ACT SURPRISED AND STATE THAT I MUST HAVE GOT LUCKY BECAUSE MOST OF THE CARS HAVE THESE FLASHING LIGHTS. THEY SEEM TO JUST WANT ME TO LIVE WITH IT. YOU NEED TO INVESTIGATE THIS SINCE THEY ARE SAYING IT IS A COMMON ISSUE. I THINK THESE CARS NEED A RECALL. *TR

DRIVERS DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE. DEALER REPORTS LATCH CABLE IS BROKEN. THIS IS THE SECOND OCCURRENCE OF THE DRIVERS DOOR LATCH CABLE BREAKING. *TR

CRUISE CONTROL: PEDAL DOES NOT STAY WHERE IT IS SET - IT RETURNS TO A 0 MPH POSITION. THIS MAKES IT UNCOMFORTABLE TO KEEP YOUR FOOT RESTING ON THE PROPER PEDAL WHILE IN CRUISE, LEADING TO LOSING OF 'PLACE'. IT COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE. ACCELERATION ANOMALIES. WHEN STEPPING ON IT (GOING STRAIGHT) ENGINE WILL HESITATE, SEEM TO WIND UP AND THEN GO, NOT GIVING YOU THE POWER YOU NEED WHEN YOU NEED IT, BUT SECONDS AFTER THE FACT. OTHER TIMES ENGINE WILL ACCELERATE UNEXPECTEDLY WITH MORE POWER THAN ANTICIPATED MOST FREQUENTLY WHEN ACCELERATING INTO A TURN. SEEMS UNSAFE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHEN DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH AND PULLING INTO HER DRIVEWAY THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL GOT JAMMED AND AS A RESULT THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO HER GARAGE. THE DRIVER SUSTAINED INJURIES TO HER UPPER BACK AND NECK. THE POLICE WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE DEALER WAS LATER CONTACTED AND THEY OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE WHO THEY ADVISED HER THAT THEY WOULD LOOK INTO THE ISSUE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REMOVED FROM THE CONTACTS GARAGE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 700.

I WAS DRIVING HOME ON A BUSY HIGHWAY BUT LUCKILY CROSSING AT AN INTERSECTION WITH LIGHTS. I TURNED LEFT AND IT WAS AS IF MY CAR WENT IN NEUTRAL. I HIT THE GAS AND I DIDN'T GO ANYWHERE. I HAD TO GLIDE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AS CARS WERE BEEPING AT ME. I NOTICED THAT THE STABILITY CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON. I REGULARLY TURN LEFT AT OTHER SECTIONS OF THIS HIGHWAY WHERE THERE ARE NO LIGHTS AND YOU JUST HAVE TO GO WHEN YOU CAN MAKE IT THROUGH QUICK. WHAT IF THIS HAPPENED THEN? I WOULD HAVE BEEN HIT MY MULTIPLE CARS GOING VERY FAST. THE DEALERSHIP SAID THE COMPUTER NEEDED TO BE RESET AND IT SHOULD BE FINE. "SHOULD BE FINE"! I HAVE A FAMILY AND BOUGHT A NEW CAR SO WE ARE SAFE THEN THIS HAPPENS AND I HEAR "SHOULD BE FINE". *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY WHEN SUDDENLY THE TRACTION CONTROL INDICATOR LIT UP ON MY DASHBOARD. WHEN I EXITED THE FREEWAY AND ATTEMPTED TO MAKE A LEFT TURN, MY CAR SUDDENLY LOST POWER. IT WAS AS IF MY CAR WAS IN NEUTRAL. I LOOKED AT THE GEAR SHIFT TO ENSURE IT WAS STILL IN DRIVE, AND IT WAS. SOMEHOW I MADE IT THROUGH THE TURN AND INTO A NEARBY PARKING LOT. I TURNED THE CAR OFF, WAITED A FEW MINUTES, AND THEN WAS ABLE TO LEAVE. IT WAS SCARY AND UPSETTING AS MY CAR IS ONLY 4 MONTHS OLD. THE DEALER SAID THEY WON'T BE ABLE TO DETERMINE WHAT HAPPENED SINCE THE INDICATOR IS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED. I ASKED IF THERE WAS ANY WAY AT ALL TO DO A DIAGNOSTIC TEST AND THEY SAID NO. I AM HAVING A HARD TIME BELIEVING THIS. I'M JUST GLAD I WASN'T REAR ENDED WITH MY GRAND BABY IN THE BACK SEAT. *TR

THE VEHICLE WILL RANDOMLY AND SPORADICALLY SPEED UP AND THE RPMS INCREASE UNEXPECTEDLY WHEN THE CLUTCH IS RELEASED AFTER DOWNSHIFTING FROM 3RD TO 2ND OR 4TH TO 3RD. MOSTLY FROM 3RD TO 2ND. THE VEHICLE REALLY PULLS FORWARD AND DOES NOT SLOW DOWN WHEN THIS IS HAPPENING. INSTINCT IS TO JUMP THE BRAKE, WHICH SLOWS THE CAR, DECREASES THE RPMS AND APPEARS TO STOP THE INCIDENT. THIS IS A DEFINITE SAFETY CONCERN, ESPECIALLY WITH SNOWY, ICY ROADS JUST AROUND THE CORNER. I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO REPLICATE THIS AS IT IS SPORADIC. THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE FIRST DRIVING THIS VEHICLE JUNE, 02, 2012. MILEAGE,SPEED AND DATE OF OCCURRENCE ENTERED ARE APPROXIMATES AS SEVERAL INCIDENTS OCCURRED PRIOR TO THE START OF DOCUMENTING EACH ONE. THE STATE AND ZIP CODE ENTERED IN THE ADDRESS INFORMATION IS THE CLOSET ONE TO ME. I LIVE IN CANADA AND HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND A NATIONAL SITE TO FORMALLY LODGE A COMPLAINT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE PARKING, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AND CRASHED AGAINST A CEMENT POLE. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED AND NO INJURIES WERE REPORTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE WHO STATED THAT THEY WOULD LIKE TO FURTHER INSPECT THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS IN THE PROCESS OF BEING REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN. UPDATED 11/13/12 *CN UPDATED 11/29/2012 *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHROME PANELING ON THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE DASHBOARD WAS CAUSING MOMENTARILY BLINDNESS WHEN THE SUN OR LIGHT REFLECTED OFF THE CHROME. THE CONTACT NOTIFIED THE MANUFACTURER AND THEY ADVISED THAT THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO TO ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE CAR SOMETIMES SURGES DURING DOWNSHIFTING. I WILL BE DRIVING IN MODERATE TRAFFIC IN THIRD GEAR. THE TRAFFIC SLOWS, AND I LET IN THE CLUTCH AND APPLY THE BRAKE. WHEN THE TRAFFIC STARTS TO PICK UP AGAIN, I AM GOING TOO SLOW FOR THIRD, SO I SHIFT INTO SECOND AND LET THE CLUTCH OUT. MY RIGHT FOOT IS JUST RESTING LIGHTLY ON THE GAS PEDAL. THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN IDLING FAST, BUT AS SOON AS THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED, THE ENGINE SUDDENLY ROARS AND THE CAR LEAPS FORWARD, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE NOT PRESSED THE GAS AT ALL. I LET IN THE CLUTCH AGAIN TO AVOID AN ACCIDENT. WHEN I LET IT OUT AGAIN, IT WORKS NORMALLY. THIS HAPPENS ONCE, TWICE, OR NOT AT ALL IN A 40-MILE ROUND TRIP OUT OF TOWN AND BACK. IT ALSO HAPPENS FREQUENTLY WHEN I MAKE A LEFT TURN WITHOUT STOPPING, BUT WHERE I NEED TO SLOW AND DOWNSHIFT. I COAST INTO THE TURN WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL IN, SHIFT DOWN, AND ATTEMPT TO LET THE CLUTCH OUT WHEN COMING OUT OF THE TURN. I WOULD EXPECT THE CAR TO SLOW WHEN I SHIFT DOWN UNLESS I AM PRESSING THE ACCELERATOR, BUT SOMETHING OTHER THAN ME IS GIVING IT GAS. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO PREDICT WHEN THIS WILL HAPPEN, AND IT NEVER HAPPENS TWICE IN A ROW. I HAVE MADE IT HAPPEN ON PURPOSE, BUT I THINK THAT WAS PURE LUCK. IT HAPPENS WHEN DOWNSHIFTING INTO ANY GEAR, BUT BECAUSE OF THE HEAVY TRAFFIC IN OUR AREA, IT ENDS UP USUALLY BEING THIRD TO SECOND. IT HAS HAPPENED TO ME WHEN DOWNSHIFTING INTO THIRD OR FOURTH ALSO. *TR

DRIVING HOME LAST NIGHT (ON THE FREEWAY) AT APPROXIMATELY 9:45 PM I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE TO MAKE A LANE CHANGE. I NOTICED THE CAR WASN'T MOVING ANY FASTER THE ONLY THING I HEARD WAS THE ENGINE GUNNING. THE CAR WAS SLOWING DOWN IN VERY FAST TRAFFIC AND I IMMEDIATELY PUT MY HAZARDS ON WHILE TRYING TO MOVE THE GEAR SHIFT WHICH WAS STUCK. ITS A MIRACLE THAT I DIDN'T GET HIT TRYING TO GET TNATE TO HAVE IT APOENHIS VEHICLE OVER TO THE RIGHT SHOULDER WHICH I EVENTUALLY DID. I REMOVED A SMALL COVER BESIDE THE GEAR SHIFT INSERTED A SCREWDRIVER IN THE HOLE AND WAS ABLE TO RELEASE THE SHIFT. I PUT IT IN PARK, TURNED THE CAR OFF FOR ABOUT A MINUTE. STARTED THE CAR AND SHIFTED IT TO DRIVE BUT THE CAR JERKED BACK AND THE GEAR SHIFT IS STUCK AGAIN. I HAD TO BE TOWED HOME. THIS WAS A VERY DANGEROUS AND FRIGHTENING SITUATION FOR A MALE ADULT AND WOULD HATE TO HAVE THIS HAPPEN TO A SINGLE MOTHER WITH CHILDREN IN THE CAR. THIS IS NOT THE ONLY TIME THE GEARS HAVE LOCKED. I WAS FORTUNATE TO HAVE IT HAPPEN IN MY DRIVEWAY AND WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK WITH THE METHOD I DESCRIBED ABOVE. I FEEL THIS REALLY SHOULD BE LOOKED INTO. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FUEL SYSTEM WAS DEFECTIVE AND THAT THERE WERE SPIDERS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM AREA. THE VEHICLE ALSO BEGAN TO JERK WHEN ACCELERATING. THE DEALER WOULD NOT INSPECT THE VEHICLE, STATING THAT BUGS AND SPIDERS WERE NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 11,000.

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

THE DRIVERS DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE. BROKEN INNER DRIVERS DOOR CABLE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WERE AIMED TOO HIGH, CAUSING DIFFICULTY WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER, BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO REPAIR THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 600. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 MAZDA MAZDA3. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED THE AIR BAG LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIANS RECALIBRATED THE SEAT AND STATED THE SENSOR FUNCTIONED CORRECTLY. THE TECHNICIANS ALSO STATED THE WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION WITHIN THE SEAT MADE IT DIFFICULT FOR THE SEAT TO RECOGNIZE THAT THE DRIVER WAS IN THE SEAT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10.