JF1VA1A62F98069932015 SUBARU WRXWRX (w/o Lip-Spolier)

My engine starting making like a clunking sound I always have took my car for service at the dealership i own the 2015 subaru wrx premium i haven’t move the car after the noise due to scare I might mess something with the engine

The contact owns a 2015 Subaru WRX. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, he heard an abnormal sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed failures with the drive belt, front drive axles, rear axle differential seals, and windshield washer reservoir. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 87,000.

The secondary o2 pump will burn out or continue running causing unsafe risk to short circuit a fire. Recall has already been previously documented in the -2014 models however Subaru uses the same design and part number. My car Secondary o2 Pump was replaced under warrenty at 55k miles now at 90knmiles have the same CEL code.

Engine has rod knock present common amongst owners. Short block replaced under warranty at 55k miles. How can a stock engine with synthetic oil changes commonly fail? Flaws.

I first noticed the car engine began making a loud ticking sound and significantly lost power as I exited the freeway heading toward my home after work. After towing the vehicle to the Subaru dealership, they tore apart the engine and found a connecting rod bearing had failed. It had slid out between the rod and crankshaft and shattered in the oil system sending shards of metal into the engine and all components that the oil touches. Every component that oil touches needed to be replaced. Prior to this problem, maintenance and oil changes were performed according to Subaru's specifications. Had the engine completely failed on the freeway during my commute home (during rush hour traffic) I could have caused an accident and possibly hurt myself and others. Subaru inspected and kept the components that were faulty though they never accepted responsibility for the failure of the components. There was absolutely no indication nor warning signal prior to the failure of the connecting rod bearing. Subaru blamed me for the component failure saying the vehicle was not properly maintained though they never asked me for proof of maintenance. I had to pay $7868 to repair the car to it's original mechanical state.

-Engine Head Gasket (Blown), Yes. -Engine coolant created cloud of white vapor while driving, impairing ability to visually assess the road. Leaked hazardous fluid over freeway possibly contaminating soils and affecting local wildlife. -The problem has been reproduced and confirmed by Eastside Subaru in Kirkland, WA. -The vehicle has been inspected by Eastside Subaru in Kirkland, WA. -There was no warning (check engine lights) until the incident occurred.

* Battery charging system damaging battery resulting failure of battery. Suspecting overcharging or constant draining of battery below cycling. * Improper charging of battery could result in catastrophic battery failure which may cause battery to catch on fire. * Failure of battery in inclimate/severe weather may impede egress from elements and/or not allow for certain functions of the vehicle that would assist in providing warmth or cooling to occupants. *No, dealer simply replaced battery *No *Vehicle in question was purchased new in 2015 with no electrical modifications. OD reads ~92000 miles. This is the third battery replacement with evidence of suspected overcharging such as excessive build up of copper sulfate and corrosion on positive battery terminal (present on all replaced batteries).

Turbocharger intake cracked and causes the engine to have an extremely rough idle and stall. My vehicle has the same issue as NHTSA campaign number 16V16200 however it was manufactured before April 10th 2015 so it is not included in that recall.

Car battery is constantly drained even when car is used every other day

DEFECTIVE OEM THROW-OUT BEARING and FORK in the SIX SPEED manual transmission completely BURNING the clutch. I was going up a hill and the car just started rolling back. No gear would work on the car.

The engine blew up around 75k miles, it had blown a rod barring even though the car had been maintained. The clutch prematurly went out causing me to have to replace everything but the flywheel at under 75k miles. The clockspring is bad in the car affecting the horn and air bags. Having to get that replaced as well. The car is currently at a dealership getting everything resolved other than the clutch as thats already been replaced. My safely and others safely were at risk as if the clutch went out while driving, my horn would not work, my airbag light was on flashing and possibly wouldn't deploy in an accident and the engine blowing up due to a thrown rod barring put me at risk as it was on the freeway this happened. You can get all this info on mileage and what has been replaced. This has cost me thousands upon thousands of dollars to fix in the car when none of it should of happened.

Battery lasted only less than 2 year s

I OWN A 2015 WRX LIMITED CVT. WHEN I GO TO MY CAR TO GO TO WORK AND I START IT, THE CAR SPUTTERS. I'VE ONLY NOTICED THIS ON COLD STARTS ONLY, ONCE THE CAR IS WARMED UP IT'S FINE. FOR SOME REASON THOUGH WHEN THE CAR IS SPUTTERING ON START UPS IT WILL TRIP MY CEL AND BASICALLY PUT THE CAR INTO 'GET HOME' MODE, BUT IT ONLY SEEMS TO TRIGGER THE CEL WHEN IT WANTS TO. THE CAR WILL ALWAYS SPUTTER ON START UP BUT SOMETIMES THE CEL WILL COME ON AND I CAN'T USE THE DRIVE MODES AND SOMETIMES IT WON'T COME ON. NO MATTER WHAT I DO I CAN'T GET THE CAR TO STOP SPUTTERING. I'VE CLEANED PRETTY MUCH EVERY SENSOR I COULD AND NOTHING WORKED. I SCANNED THE OBD2 PORT AND GOT P0300 FOR RANDOM MISFIRE, WHICH TELLS ME ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.

WHEN I TAKE SHARP TURNS (LIKE PARALLEL PARKING OR BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY) MY STEERING COLUMN CLUNKS. MAINLY LEFT TURNS ... BUT IT DOES HAPPEN TIME TO TIME WITH RIGHT TURNS.

RUST IS ON THE INSIDE OF THE TRUNK.

RUST APPEARING ON DOOR(S) FRAME INSIDE NEAR WEATHER STRIP, BUBBLING OUTWARDS AND SHOWING OUTSIDE ON B-PILLAR.

VEHICLE IS BURNING OIL, OIL CAME OUT THROUGH WHERE THE DIP-STICK IS PLACED. FOUND OIL ON THE EXHAUST TIPS. MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR IS MALFUNCTIONING. REQUIRES NEW COILS AND SPARK PLUGS EVEN THOUGH I HAVE ALREADY REPLACED THEM. REQUIRED A NEW BATTERY, HOWEVER, REPLACING THE BATTERY DID NOT KEEP THE VEHICLE FROM TURNING OFF BY ITSELF. O2 SENSOR, BANK 1 SENSOR 2, IS ALSO MALFUNCTIONING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 SUBARU WRX. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE, A CREAKING NOISE WAS PRESENT COMING FROM THE ENGINE BAY. ALSO, A GRINDING SOUND WAS PRESENT WHEN SHIFTING BETWEEN GEARS AND THE VEHICLE WOULD JOLT WHILE ACCELERATING AND DECELERATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (MID HUDSON SUBARU LOCATED AT 1715 U.S. 9, WAPPINGERS FALLS, NY 12590) WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION PITCHER STOPPER MOUNT WAS FAULTY AND WAS SEPARATING FROM THE ENGINE FIRE WALL AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE BUT NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000. *LN *DL

SQUEAKY CLUTCH PEDAL AND WHIRRING NOISE WHEN CLUTCH DEPRESSED

DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT ~70 MPH AND SUDDENLY LOST ALL THROTTLE RESPONSE, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE ONLY LOOSE SPEED. ENGINE STARTED TO SHUTTER TO LOW RPMS, AND BECAUSE OF THIS DRASTICALLY LOST SPEED AND NEARLY GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT WITH ONCOMING TRAFFIC WHILE MOVING TO THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY TO PULL OVER. AFTER EVENTUALLY PULLING OVER, ENGINE CONTINUED TO SHUTTER TO LOW RPMS AND COULD NOT HOLD AN IDLE - WOULD JUST STALL AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO START IT UP. CAR WAS TOWED TO CLOSEST DEALERSHIP AND AFTER WAITING 4 DAYS FINALLY HEARD IT WAS THE ENGINE WIRE HARNESS THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. RESEARCHING THE ISSUE I FOUND THAT SUBARU MADE A DESIGN CHANGE FOR THE WIRE HARNESS TO PREVENT WATER/MOISTURE FAILURE WHICH IS MOST LIKE WHAT HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE. STUCK WITH A $1400 BILL DUE TO A DESIGN FLAW, I DECIDED TO PURCHASE A 2020 MODEL WHICH HOPEFULLY DOESN'T HAVE THE SAME ISSUE. AFTER CALLING SUBARU OF NORTH AMERICA AND EXPLAINING THE SITUATION, THEY OFFERED ME $1000 TOWARDS THE NEW PURCHASE. IT WAS A KIND GESTURE HOWEVER I QUESTION IF IT IS SOMEWHAT ADMISSION OF GUILT FOR THE DESIGN FLAW. 2015 WRX 138K MILES WAS METICULOUSLY MAINTAINED WITH ALL NECESSARY MAINTENANCE COMPLETED AT PROPER INTERVALS AND OIL CHANGES EVERY 3-4K MILES.

THE RPM DROP AND THE ENGINE STALLS, BUT NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS COME ON. IT ONLY HAPPENS IN FIRST GEAR, FROM WHAT I'VE NOTICED.

DECIDED TO GET MY SPARK PLUGS REPLACED, AND GOT A COMPRESSION TEST DONE WHILE THAT SERVICE WAS DONE FOR CONVENIENCE. COMPRESSION CAME OUT LOW ON ONE SIDE OF MY FA20DIT ENGINE. WITH MORE RESEARCH, BECAUSE THE ENGINE IS DIRECT INJECTED, THERE IS OBVIOUS BUILD UP ON THE INTAKE VALVES, CAUSING BAD AIR FLOW. THIS IS NOT A WEAR AND TEAR ISSUE.

VEHICLE HAD A BRAND NEW SHORT BLOCK WITH APPROXIMATELY 6,000 MILES ON IT, AND SPUN A BEARING.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY ON MY WAY TO WORK NOT FOLLOWING ANYONE CLOSELY. I DID NOT GO UNDER ANY OVERPASSES OR TREES AND I HAD MY SUNROOF CLOSED WITH THE SHADE VISOR OPEN AT THE TIME. ALL OF A SUDDEN MY SUNROOF EXPLODED OUT OF NOWHERE (LOUD BOOM) AND A LARGE AMOUNT OF GLASS FELL ON ME INTO THE VEHICLE. LUCKILY, THERE WAS NO ONE NEAR ME ON EITHER SIDE AND I KEPT MY COMPOSURE UNTIL I PULLED OVER ON THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY TO LOOK AND CLEAR THE GLASS FROM MY SEAT AND THE PASSENGER SEAT. WHEN I INSPECTED THE SUNROOF GLASS, IT LOOKED LIKE SOME OF THE BROKEN PIECES ARE FORCED IN AN UPWARDS MANNER AS IF DUE TO PRESSURE OR TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATION. I CHECKED OVER THE REST OF MY VEHICLE AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS CHIPS AND DEEP SCRATCHES FROM THE GLASS THAT DAMAGED MY ROOF, SHARKFIN ANTENNA, AND MY TRUNK AREA WHICH I WILL NEED TO HAVE REPAIRED TO AVOID RUST. I WAS COMPLETELY SURPRISED BY THIS INCIDENT AND GOT A FEW SMALL CUTS ON MY HANDS FROM CLEANING THE GLASS OFF SO I COULD DRIVE BACK HOME. I HAVE DASHCAM FOOTAGE (THAT CAN BE PROVIDED AS WELL) OF ME DRIVING DURING THIS OCCURRENCE AND I WAS NOT ABLE TO FIND ANYTHING THAT WOULD HAVE HIT THE SUNROOF TO DAMAGE IT IN SUCH A WAY. THERE WERE ALSO NO OBJECTS THAT WENT INTO MY CAR'S CABIN FOLLOWING THE BREAKAGE. I WAS READING OVER OTHER SIMILAR REPORTED ISSUES AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A PROBLEM THAT IS SPREAD ACROSS VARIOUS MAKES AND MODELS THROUGHOUT THE YEARS. THIS IS DEFINITELY A FACTORY DEFECT THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF AND COVERED BY MANUFACTURERS AS IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE.

I'M TRYING TO FIND THE AGENCY RESPONSIBLE FOR REGULATING CAR ENTERTAINMENT INTERFACES. THE NOTE 9 WITH ANDROID AUTO HAS TWO DEFECTS ONE WHERE THE NAVIGATION BAR DOES NOT RESPOND TO TOUCH INPUT. AND THE SECOND IS THAT TOUCH CONTROLS FOR THE GPS NAVIGATION SCREEN. THE PHONE HAS BEEN LIKE THIS FOR TWO MONTHS AND SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED THIS ISSUE ON THE SUPPORT FORUMS, NEITHER GOOGLE NOR SAMSUNG HAS FIXED THE ISSUE OR GIVEN A TIMELINE ON WHEN WE CAN EXPECT THE ISSUE. THIS IS INCREDIBLY DISTRACTING TO THE DRIVER WHEN USING THE INTERFACE, EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE OF WHAT ANDROID AUTO IS SUPPOSED TO ACCOMPLISH.

MPG REPORTED ON THE DASH IS EXAGGERATED. VEHICLE SHOWS 27.3MPG FOR THE FOLLOWING TRIP, THAT IS BETWEEN THE LAST AND CURRENT FUEL FILL UP. REAL WORLD CALCULATED MPG IS 19.55, WHICH IS SIGNIFICANTLY OFF, OF WHAT IS BEING REPORTED BY THE VEHICLE.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY GOING UP A HILL AND MY SUBARU WRX WAS NOT SHIFTING CORRECTLY. IT SMELLED LIKE BURNT RUBBER AND IT FELT LIKE MY VEHICLE DIDN'T HAVE ANY POWER AT ALL SO I GOT OFF ON THE NEAREST EXIT. I STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT, PUT THE VEHICLE IN 1ST GEAR AND IT WOULD NOT MOVE AT ALL. I HAD TO PUSH THE CAR OUT OF THE ROAD WITH A STRANGERS HELP. THE CAR SMELLED LIKE BURNT RUBBER AND IT PUT ME IN A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION. CAR WAS TOWED TO THE NEAREST SUBARU DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I CALLED THE DEALER WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE AND THEY SAID THAT THEY ALREADY REPLACED THE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL BEFORE I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE AT 27,000 MILES. WHEN MY CLUTCH WENT OUT, MY VEHICLE HAD 35,000 MILES ON IT AND NOW SUBARU DOESNT WANT TO PAY FOR THIS CLUTCH. SO NOW I AM ON MY 3RD CLUTCH AT 35,000 MILES. ITS OBVIOUS THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH OTHER OWNERS. IN FACT, SUBARU EVEN KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE. THEY HAVE ISSUED TWO SERVICE BULLETINS (DESIGN CHANGES) FOR THE CLUTCH'S IN THEIR 2014-2017 SUBARU WRXS. MY GUESS IS, THEY KNOW THIS IS A PROBLEM AND THEY ARE TRYING TO COVER IT UP. I NEVER WOULD HAVE PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IF I KNEW ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND I WILL NEVER PURCHASE A SUBARU AGAIN

DRIVING ON STRAIGHT ROAD. STEERING WHEEL STOPPED WORKING. VEHICLE CROSSED OTHER LANE OF TRAFFIC AND CRASHED INTO SIGN AND DRAINAGE CULVERT. WAS TOTALLED FROM THE DAMAGE.

THE CLUTCH KEEPS GOING BAD IN A FEW THOUSAND MILES UNDER NORMAL USE. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME ONLY AFTER 2000 MILES. SUBARU TELLS ME I ABUSE THE CLUTCH AND DON'T KNOW HOW TO DRIVE. I HAVE DRIVEN ONLY MANUAL TRANSMISSION CARS, NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE WITH ANY CAR. THIS SUBARU HAS A BAD CLUTCH WHICH THEY WON'T ACCEPT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 SUBARU WRX. WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE SUN ROOF EXPLODED WITHOUT WARNING. THERE WERE NO INJURIES SUSTAINED. THE CONTACT CALLED SUBARU OF AMERICA AT (866) 520-7894 (3161 AUTOMOBILE BLVD, SILVER SPRING, MD 20904) AND WAS INFORMED TO CALL A LOCAL SUBARU DEALER FOR INSPECTION. THE LOCAL DEALER (CORPUS CHRISTI SUBARU, 3615 S PADRE ISLAND DR., CORPUS CHRISTI, TX 78415, (361) 826-0630) WAS CONTACTED, BUT THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT WAS ADVISED TO COVER THE SUN ROOF WITH PLASTIC UNTIL THE VEHICLE COULD BE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 34,500. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHILE WAITING IN A PARKING WITH CAR AND AC TURNED ON, THE CABIN BEGAN TO SMELL VERY HARD LIKE GAS THIS HAPPENED APPROXIMATELY 10 MINUTES AFTER PARKED AND WAITING. DID IT AGAIN WHILE WAITING IN ANOTHER PARKING WITH CAR AND AC TURNED ON AFTER 10 MINUTES. ONLY HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY, PARKED WITH AC ON. NOT WHILE DRIVING OR FREQUENT FAST STOPS.

AT 300 RPM CAR MADE LOUD SOUNDS AND DIED SIDE OF HIGHWAY. HAD TO BE TOWED 100 MILES. ALSO HAD OIL ISSUE - WENT THROUGH A LOT OF OIL

DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT IS RANDOMLY DISABLED. LIKE THE MAJORITY OF OTHERS HAVING THIS ISSUE, MY CAR HAS BEEN IN A COLDER CLIMATE (MINNESOTA) WHEN THIS STARTED OCCURRING. THERE IS NO WAY OF TURNING IT BACK ON. *TR

I AM A 44 YEAR OLD WOMAN, DRIVING A 2015 WRX. I HAVE ONLY OWNED AND DRIVEN MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS MY ENTIRE LIFE. MY LAST CAR, A MAZDA 3, I DROVE TO 110,000 MILES AND THE CLUTCH NEVER WENT OUT. MY 2015 WRX IS AT 22,000 AND THE CLUTCH IS BEING REPLACED. A BEARING WENT BAD AND DID DAMAGE TO THE CLUTCH. THE DEALERSHIP IS PUTTING A NEW CLUTCH IN THE VEHICLE. *TR

FIRESTONE FIREHAWK WIDE OVAL TIRES CRACKING IN SIDEWALLS AFTER 13834 MILES ON VEHICLES. THREE OF THE FOUR TIRES WERE GROWING CRACKS IN THE SIDEWALLS, NEAR THE TREAD. ALL CRACKS WERE ON THE INSIDE AND ONLY VISIBLE AFTER THE WHEELS WERE REMOVED.

DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY DURING RUSH HOUR AND TRIED TO DOWNSHIFT (MANUAL TRANSMISSION) FROM 6TH GEAR TO 3RD SINCE TRAFFIC SLOWED DOWN BUT THE SHIFTER WON'T GO INTO GEAR AND I WAS GOING UP HILL. I TRIED 4TH, 5TH, 3RD AGAIN, 2ND, AND I'M SLOW ENOUGH TO TRY EVEN 1ST AND STILL WON'T GO INTO GEAR. FORTUNATELY I HAD ENOUGH MOMENTUM TO GET TO THE SHOULDER GOING UP HILL IN THE FREEWAY. I HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE SERVICE REP COULD NOT SHIFT IT INTO GEAR ALSO. HE WAS ABLE TO PUT IT INTO THE SERVICE BAY BY TURNING OFF THE ENGINE, PUTTING IT INTO GEAR, TURNING ON THE ENGINE AND DRIVING IT. AT THAT POINT IT SHIFTS JUST FINE AND WAS TOLD TO LET THEM KNOW IF IT HAPPENS AGAIN. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME IF IT HAPPENS AGAIN SINCE I WON'T BE ABLE TO SHIFT/ACCELERATE TO AVOID OBSTACLES OR PREVENT ACCIDENTS. THERE ARE TIMES WHEN I'VE FELT THAT IT'S BEEN A LITTLE HESITANT TO GET INTO GEAR.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION CAR. ABOUT 28000 MILES WHEN THE ISSUE HAPPENED. AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 10 MILES, WHILE COMING TO A STOP IN A TRAFFIC LIGHT THE CAR COULD NOT BE SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL FROM 5TH GEAR. CLUTCH OPERATED NORMALLY SO I STOPPED USING THE CLUTCH, WHILE TRYING TO SHIFT OUT OF 5TH HEAR. AS THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN I MOVED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. MOVING SLOWLY IN 5TH GEAR CAUSED CLUTCH TO SMELL, BUT CONTINUES OPERATING. AFTER STOPPING THE ENGINE AND STARTING IT AGAIN AND PRESSING AND DEPRESSING CLUTCH MULTIPLE TIMES WHILE TRYING TO SHIFT, SHIFTER EVENTUALLY WENT TO NEUTRAL AND THEN SHIFTED NORMALLY FOR A MONTH. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH, IN SIMILAR CONDITIONS AFTER DRIVING SEVERAL MILES, WHILE STOPPING AT TRAFFIC LIGHT, THE CAR WOULD NOT SHIFT TO NEUTRAL FROM 3RD GEAR. TRIED STARTING AND STOPPING THE CAR AND PRESSING AND RELEASING CLUTCH, AND STILL COULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF 3RD. SINCE I WAS ABOUT 1 MILE FROM HOME, DROVE CAR TO HOME IN 3RD GEAR. HAD THE CAR TOWED TO DEALERSHIP, AND THEY DISASSEMBLED THE TRANSMISSION AND FOUND SOME PART OF THE DIFFERENTIAL HAD BROKEN, CAUSING THE ISSUE. CAR WAS REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY BY THE DEALER. IF THE SHIFTING ISSUE HAD OCCURRED DURING HIGHWAY DRIVING COULD BE A HAZARD. I AM REPORTING THIS ISSUE AS IT SEEMS OTHER OWNERS HAVE THE SAME SYMPTOMS.

IN A 2015 SUBARU WRX WITH A 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION PURCHASED 03/2015 AND DELIVERED TO PURCHASE DEALER 04/2015. REPORTED TO SUBARU DEALER 02/19/2016 A ROUGH IDLE WITH ENGINE RPMS RECORDED BETWEEN 400 AND 1K. ROUGH IDLE TRIPPED A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AFTER FUELING AND CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT BEGAN FLASHING. DIAGNOSTIC CODE P0420 REPORTED A FAULT IN CATALYTIC CONVERTER. SOFTWARE UPDATE TO COMPUTER PERFORMED RESOLVED ISSUE TEMPORARILY. 04/10/2016 AT 9.7K MILES ROUGH IDLE ISSUE RETURNED RPMS OF 400 TO 1K AGAIN AFTER FUELING. IN NEUTRAL 30-60 SECONDS AFTER STARTING VEHICLE STALLED AT FUEL STATION. UPON RE-STARTING VEHICLE CHECK ENGINE, FLASHING CRUISE CONTROL, ABS, HILL-START ASSIST, AND TRACTION CONTROL FAULTS TRIPPED. VEHICLE BEHAVIOR SIMILAR TO NHTSA RECALL 16V-162 WHERE NHTSA NOTED 'DUE TO THE USE OF INCORRECT MATERIAL FOR A PORTION OF THE ENGINE TURBOCHARGER AIR INTACT DUCT CRACK, THE ENGINE MAY DEVELOP A ROUGH IDLE, REDUCED POWER, AND POSSIBLY STALL'. COMPLAINANT BELIEVES RECALL MAY NEED TO BE EXPANDED TO INCLUDE A WIDER RANGE OF VINS BEFORE LISTED PRODUCTION DATES IN RECALL ORDER.

ON MY 24K SERVICE. VEHICLE WAS CHECKED IN AT BRIGGS SUBARU OF LAWRENCE, FOR TYPICAL RECOMMENDED SERVICE. AFTER LEAVING THE SERVICE CENTER ONCE THE SERVICE WAS COMPLETED, A SHORT WHILE DOWN THE ROAD, I CAME TO A STOP AT A RED LIGHT PLACING THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO GEAR TO CONTINUE. I HAD TO CALL THE SERVICE CENTER, AND THEY HAD TO PAY FOR THE TOW BACK TO THE SERVICE CENTER. WHERE A SERVICE TECH JOINED ME OUTSIDE, HE THEN PROCEEDED TO START THE VEHICLE, WHILE IN NEUTRAL; REVVED THE RPM TO ROUGHLY 5K AND SHIFTED INTO FIRST. THE VEHICLE MADE A TERRIBLE GRINDING SOUND, LURCHED FORWARD, AND WAS ABLE TO BE SHIFTED NORMALLY AT THIS POINT. THIS STALLING\INABILITY TO SHIFT INTO GEAR\DOWNSHIFT HAS HAPPENED ON SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES IN THE WRX, WHILE MOVING AND AT A STOP AFTER THIS POINT. AT EACH DESIGNATED SERVICE INTERVAL, I REPORTED THIS TO MY SERVICE ADVISOR; THEY COULD NEVER REPLICATE THE ISSUE. PROCEEDING TO THE 60K SERVICE, THE CLUTCH HAS SINCE FAILED, AND I'VE HAD NUMEROUS STALLS WHERE I WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO GEAR, THE CERTIFIED SUBARU REPAIR CENTER, STATES THIS IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY AND IN NO WAY DOES MY PREVIOUS ISSUES WITH NOT SHIFTING INTO GEAR EFFECT THE CLUTCH OR ANY INTERCONNECTED PART THEREOF. JUST IMAGINE HAVING THIS STALLING OR CLUTCH FAILURE HAPPEN WHILE ACCELERATING TO GET ON THE FREEWAY OR A BUSY INTERSECTION, LIKE I MYSELF HAVE EXPERIENCED. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN.

DRIVING CAR WITH PASSENGER IN COLD WEATHER (~0 DEGREES F) ON CITY STREETS. AFTER 10MIN OF DRIVING, PASSENGER AIR BAG LIGHT SWITCHED OFF, NOTIFYING ME THAT PASSENGER AIR BAG WAS TURNED OFF WHILE PASSENGER WAS SEATED. ADDITIONALLY, NEAR THE SPEEDOMETER, THE SRS AIRBAG ERROR NOTIFICATION TURNED ON, SIGNALING AN ISSUE WITH THE SRS SYSTEM. INCIDENT HAS NOT BEEN REPLICATED.

HEADLIGHTS DISABLED WARNING PRESENT ON CAR AND HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK. WARNING HAS BEEN ON FOR TWO DAYS FOR NO APPARENT CAUSE. CAR WAS PARKED OUTSIDE FOR TWO DAYS PRIOR TO WARNING COMING ON IN 75 DEGREE WEATHER. DURING THE TIME THAT IT WAS PARKED THERE WAS A LOT OF HEAVY RAIN. FORTUNATELY THE TIME CHANGE HAS HAPPENED AND I AM NOT DRIVING TO WORK IN THE DARK. I HAVE NOT SEEN ANY REASON FOR THIS ISSUE SO WILL BE TAKING TO DEALER ASAP.

ONCE, THREE MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING, AND A SECOND TIME EIGHT MONTHS LATER, MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY WOULD NOT ENTER GEARS FROM NEUTRAL. IN THE FIRST EVENT, THE CAR WAS STILL WARMING UP, DRIVING QUICKLY. IN THE SECOND EVENT, THE CAR WAS AT RUNNING TEMPERATURE, DRIVEN FOR ONE HOUR, DRIVING CONSERVATIVELY. IN BOTH SITUATIONS, I HAD TO PULL OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND CALL A TOW. ~1 HOUR LATER, THE VEHICLE WORKED FINE. NO BURNT CLUTCH SMELL, NO CHANGE IN THE FEELING OF THE CLUTCH/GEARS. DEALERSHIP COULD NOT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM, CORPORATE IS DENYING THE PROBLEM.

PURCHASED THE VEHICLE NEW WITH LESS THAN TEN MILES ON ODOMETER. FROM NEW, THE VEHICLE PRODUCED A STRONG ODOR OF BURNING OR MELTING PLASTIC EVERY TIME IT WAS DRIVEN. CLUTCH BEGAN SLIPPING AND THEN CATASTROPHICALLY FAILED AT 5100 MILES. TOWED TO DEALERSHIP, CLUTCH REPLACED. AT 7,200 MILES, CLUTCH THROW-OUT BEARING FAILED, DEALER REPLACED. AT 11,709 MILES, THROW OUT BEARING FAILED AGAIN, DEALER DISCOVERED CLUTCH WAS ON THE VERGE OF SECOND FAILURE DURING SERVICE. A SECOND REPLACEMENT CLUTCH HAS BEEN ORDERED. ADVISED BY SERVICE MANAGER THAT CAUSE OF ALL FAILURES WAS THAT A "PLUG" OF SOME SORT HAD WORKED LOOSE, CAUSING CLUTCH TO REMAIN ENGAGED AT ALL TIMES, LEADING TO CLUTCH FAILURE. IF CLUTCH FAILURE OCCURRED AT INTERSECTION OR RAIL CROSSING, THIS MANUFACTURING DEFECT COULD LEAD TO THE SEVERE INJURY OR EVEN THE DEATH OF OCCUPANTS IN THE DISABLED VEHICLE, AS THIS FAILURE RENDERS THE VEHICLE IMMOBILE.

2015 WRX 2.0L MANUAL TRANSMISSION WHILE DRIVING THE CAR IN EVERYDAY SITUATIONS I HAVE HAD (3) DISTINCT PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE ENGINE/THROTTLE/IDLE. 1) GHOST BLIP: WHEN COMING TO A STOP, AROUND 5-15 MPH, PUT IT IN NEUTRAL COAST TO A STOP IDLE WILL INEXPLICABLY SPIKE FROM ~700RPM (IDLE) --> ~1.2-1.5K RPM (FOR A SECOND OR TWO...LIKE A GHOST BLIPPED THE THROTTLE). NO PRESSURE APPLIED TO ACCELERATOR. 2) ROUGH IDLE: WHILE SITTING AT A STOP, IN NEUTRAL, ~700RPM (IDLE) --> WILL DIP TO ~650-600RPM FOR A FRACTION OF SECOND & REOCCUR EVERY 2-4 SECONDS. FEELS LIKE SOMEONE LIGHTLY SHAKING YOUR SEAT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. 3) NEAR STALL: WHILE SITTING AT A STOP, IN NEUTRAL, ~700RPM (IDLE) --> WILL DIP THE RPMS LOW ENOUGH THAT THE WHOLE CAR NOTICEABLY SHAKES...SIMILAR TO THE SHAKE YOU WOULD EXPERIENCE IF THE ENGINE WERE ACTUALLY ABOUT TO STALL. THE RPMS WILL FUMBLE AROUND A BIT AND THEN HICCUP BACK TO NORMAL IDLE AFTER 4-5 SECONDS. ALL THREE ITEMS HAVE BEEN BROUGHT TO THE ATTENTION OF THE LOCAL SUBARU DEALER ON (2) OCCASIONS W/ THE REPLY UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE PROBLEM AND/OR IT IS NORMAL.

DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT NIGHT, A LIGHT CAME ON MY DASH THAT DISPLAYED, "HEADLIGHTS DISABLED." THE HEADLIGHTS WERE STILL FUNCTIONING, SO I IGNORED THE MESSAGE. FEW HOURS LATER, THE LIGHT FLICKERED ON AND OFF REPEATEDLY FOR ~15 SECONDS AND THEN WENT AWAY. THE NEXT DAY, DRIVING AT NIGHT ON THE FREEWAY, THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON AND BOTH HEADLIGHTS TURNED OFF. I CAUTIOUSLY PULLED OVER, AND SET MY EMERGENCY LIGHTS ON. I FLICKED THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH ON AND OFF REPEATEDLY AND THEY CAME BACK ON. DROVE FOR ANOTHER 10 MINS AND THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT TURNED OFF, AND THE PASSENGER HEADLIGHT STAYED ON. I MADE IT HOME SAFELY, BUT THE LIGHT NEVER CAME BACK ON. THE NEXT DAY, THE MESSAGE IS STILL DISPLAYED, BUT BOTH HEADLIGHTS ARE FUNCTIONING. I FEEL IT VERY UNSAFE FOR ME TO DRIVE MY VEHICLE AT NIGHT, WHICH IS A HUGE INCONVENIENCE, AS THE HEADLIGHTS MAY TURN OFF AGAIN. *TR

THREE SEPARATE OCCURRENCES OF THE LED HEADLIGHT MALFUNCTION LIGHT COMING ON, TOTALLY DISABLING HEADLIGHTS, DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS, AND BLINKERS. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN AS I PRIMARILY DRIVE TO WORK AT NIGHT AND HEADLIGHTS ARE OBVIOUSLY NEEDED. THIS PROBLEM OCCURS IN COLD WEATHER, THE LAST OCCURRENCE AT -6F. STEPS TO REPLICATE ISSUE: 1) WARM CAR UP ABOUT 5 MINUTES. 2) DRIVE TO DESTINATION. TURN CAR OFF AND LET IT SIT 5-10 MINUTES. 3) START CAR BACK UP AND THE LED WARNING LIGHT APPEARS. WHEN THIS LIGHT COMES ON, YOU CANNOT TURN ON THE LIGHTS WITH AUTO, OR MANUAL. THE LAST OCCURRENCE HAPPENED DURING THE DAY FORTUNATELY, BUT THE HEADLIGHTS WERE IN THE OFF POSITION. THIS HAS BEEN TAKEN TO A DEALER, BUT THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO SINCE THE LIGHT WAS OFF EVEN THOUGHT I HAD STRESSED TO THEM THIS WAS A SAFETY CONCERN THAT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED AT. .....UPDATED 12/15/15 *BF *TR UPDATED 9/25/2017*CN

HEADLIGHTS DISABLED. STARTED THE CAR, "HEADLIGHTS DISABLED" MESSAGE ON DASHBOARD. HEADLIGHTS WERE NON-FUNCTIONAL. THIS WAS IN VERY COLD WEATHER, APPROXIMATELY -10F. AFTER ABOUT 2 HOURS THE HEADLIGHTS STARTED WORKING AGAIN, MESSAGE ON DASHBOARD WENT AWAY. DEALER SERVICE COULD NOT DUPLICATE THIS PROBLEM. IF ALL THE HEADLIGHTS HAD BECOME DISABLED WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT, A MAJOR SAFETY PROBLEM IS CREATED BY THIS ISSUE. NOTHING SHOULD BE ABLE TO SUDDENLY DISABLE ALL THE VEHICLE HEADLIGHTS WITHOUT WARNING. .....UPDATED 12/15/15 *BF

I DO NOT DRIVE MY VEHICLE VERY OFTEN AS I DRIVE MY WORK TRUCK SIX DAYS A WEEK. I GOT INTO MY VEHICLE BEFORE GETTING ON THE FREEWAY AND REALIZED I NEEDED GAS BEFORE I LEFT. I GOT TO THE GAS STATION WITH MY GAS LIGHT ON AND PARKED. AFTER PAYING FOR GAS I REALIZED MY GAS CAP ACCESS DOOR WAS NOT OPEN, AS I THOUGHT I OPENED IT. I TRIED MULTIPLE TIMES OPENING THE DOOR WITH THE RELEASE LEVER ON THE FLOOR BY THE DRIVERS SEAT. AFTER TWENTY MINUTES OF CONFUSION I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY TOLD ME TO BRING IT OVER RIGHT AWAY ( GOOD THING THEY ARE DOWN THE STREET FROM ME). AFTER WAITING FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND TALKING TO THE TECH AND SERVICE WRITER I WAS ABLE TO OBTAIN INFORMATION ON THE CAUSE OF THIS (SOME WHAT). THERE IS A PART ON THE RELEASE MECHANISM THAT IS WEAK AND FAILS CAUSING YOU TO NOT BE ABLE TO ACCESS YOUR GAS CAP. THIS COULD BE CATASTROPHIC IF YOU ARE ON A ROAD TRIP OR AWAY FROM ANY DEALERSHIP. THE SERVICE WRITER ALSO HAD SAID THIS IS FAIRLY COMMON WITH THE NEW 2015 WRX AND THEY ARE GETTING ABOUT TWO VEHICLES COMING BACK WITH THE SAME PROBLEM PER WEEK. SUBARU NEEDS TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR FAULTY DESIGN AND RECALL ALL VEHICLES AFFECTED. THIS SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED IMMEDIATELY. *TR

AVOIDING A VEHICLE IN BLIND SPOT. THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF THE TRUCK IN FRONT OF ME HIT HIS BREAKS CAUSING THE TRUCK IN FRONT OF ME TO HIT HIS BREAKS, I CLIP THE RIGHT FRONT FASCIA INTO THE LEFT SEAT CORNER OF THE TRUCK. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY AND THE SEAT BELT TENSIONER DID NOT WORK. I PULLED OVER, TURNED MY VEHICLE OFF AND MY VEHICLE CAUGHT FIRE. MY VEHICLE COMPLETELY BURNED DOWN TO THE FRAME AND IS A COMPLETE LOSS. *TR

SON HAD JUST PURCHASED CAR. TOOK THE CAR TO AN AREA WHICH HAD AN UNPLOWED PARKING AREA TO TEST THE HANDLING OF THE CAR IN THE SNOW. CAR DIED WHILE DRIVING AND THERE WAS AN IMMEDIATE STRONG SMELL OF THE CLUTCH BURNING. COULD NOT START THE CAR WITH THE CAR IN GEAR AND THE CLUTCH PUSHED IN. CAR WOULD ONLY START IN NEUTRAL. WHEN CAR STARTED COULD NOT GET THE CAR TO GO INTO GEAR. WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR PUSH STARTED AND DRIVEN APPROX. 0.2 MILES TO A SECURE AREA AND THEN HAD CAR TOWED TO DEALERSHIP WHERE THE CLUTCH WAS FOUND TO BE BURNED OUT. DEALERSHIP CLAIMS IT WAS DRIVER'S ERROR BUT THEY SENT PICTURES TO ME AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE DAMAGE DOES NOT LINE UP WITH WHAT THEY SAY THE PROBLEM WAS. *TR

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WAS IN MANUAL MODE. LEFT STOP SIGN AND USED THE UPSHIFT PADDLE SHIFTER TO CHANGE GEARS. CAR WOULD NOT UPSHIFT. HAS OCCURRED 4 TIMES IN THIS 6200 MILES SINCE PURCHASED. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 SUBARU WRX. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 50 MPH, THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION FAILED TO RESPOND WITH A STRONG BURNED CLUTCH ODOR. THERE WERE NO PRIOR WARNINGS. THE VEHICLE WAS MANEUVERED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE DEFECT. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,500.