5NPD74LF9HH0740832017 HYUNDAI ElantraSE Base

I own a Hyundai Elantra with approximately 103,000 miles. The vehicle has developed an intermittent issue where the engine will suddenly stall while driving. This most often occurs when I am decelerating and turning, such as when entering or navigating roundabouts. At the time of the stall, multiple warning indicators appear simultaneously, including the check engine light, battery warning light, and a “no key detected” message. There are no prior warning signs before the failure occurs—no unusual noises, no loss of power leading up to the event, and no dashboard warnings in advance. The stall is sudden and unexpected. When the vehicle stalls, I must quickly shift into park and restart the engine. The car restarts immediately without hesitation, and all warning lights disappear. The vehicle then operates normally again until the issue randomly reoccurs. This has happened multiple times. This issue creates a safety risk because the vehicle loses power unexpectedly while in motion, particularly during low-speed turns and in roundabouts, which could increase the risk of a collision due to sudden loss of propulsion and reduced control. The problem has not yet been formally diagnosed by a dealer or independent repair shop, but based on research and similar reported cases, it may be related to an intermittent engine or electrical signal failure. The issue has not yet been inspected by the manufacturer, police, or insurance representatives. UNKNOWN as to the exact failed component, but the failure appears to involve a sudden loss of engine operation without warning, followed by immediate recovery upon restart.

Car is burning oil. Replaced timing chain and it continues to burn oil.

Component or system failed: The electrical and/or engine system failed spontaneously. Gray smoke originated from under the hood, followed by black smoke and an intense fire. The vehicle is NOT available for inspection as it was declared a total loss and scrapped 30 days after the incident. Safety risk: My safety was at immediate risk as I was inside the vehicle when the fire began. Public safety was also threatened; the Bloomingdale Fire Department had to evacuate a Wendy’s restaurant and its customers for two hours due to the intensity of the fire and smoke. Confirmation of problem: The problem was confirmed as a Total Loss due to fire by the Bloomingdale Fire and Police Departments on the scene. Inspections: The vehicle was inspected at the scene by police and fire officials. No manufacturer or dealer inspection was possible because the fire occurred only 7 days after purchase and the vehicle was destroyed. Warning symptoms: There were no warning lamps, messages, or symptoms prior to the failure. The smoke appeared suddenly while the vehicle was parked and idling.

I am filing a formal complaint regarding my 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE (VIN: [XXX] ). The vehicle is currently experiencing severe safety issues, including unexpected engine stalling and loud mechanical rattling, alongside a P0014 diagnostic code. These symptoms align directly with the defects described in Recall 203 (NHTSA 21V301000) involving improper piston ring heat treatment and Service Campaign 966regarding engine bearing wear. As a consumer, I am extremely concerned about the risk of a crash due to sudden loss of power. I am really concerned for my son and I as I drive my vehicle. I am requesting: 1. An immediate inspection and confirmation of eligibility for an engine replacement at no cost to me. 2. Verification of the lifetime long-block warranty extension associated with the KSDS (Campaign 966) update. 3. Provision of a loaner vehicle or rental reimbursement while my primary vehicle is unsafe to operate. Please assign a case manager to this matter and provide a timeline for resolution. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Subject: Escalation of Unresolved Case – Request for NHTSA Assistance Dear NHTSA, For several months, I have been dealing with an unresolved issue regarding my Hyundai vehicle. On February 18th, I was told the supervisor of my case manager at Hyundai Motor America would contact me within 5 to 10 business days. Today is March 16th, and despite repeated requests, no supervisor has reached out. As a dialysis patient without a vehicle, these prolonged delays are affecting my health and safety. Since I have not been able to receive a response from the supervisor of my case manager, I am escalating this matter to your agency. I have a full email chain documenting these events, which I can provide upon request. For transparency, I am copying my case manager and Hyundai national customer service. I appreciate your assistance with this urgent matter. Sincerely, [XXX] Tel. [XXX] CC: [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The paint keeps chipping off the nose of the hood as well as areas above the doors. I have had it repainted one time and it is chipping off again.

The passenger airbag is not activating reliably. There was not an accident but the light indicating airbage is active does not light up when passenger sits in front.

Car was constantly losing power, called Hyundai dealer about the OBI system thinking that could be the cause they told me no, and then in 2 years ago the car started stalling when you slowed down and on the way home from work it completely died. Car still turns over but car will not go, engine and transmission are completely done. It’s been at my house sitting since. Hyundai dealer is a joke a wouldn’t help when the issue first arised.

1: Driver’s window: don't go up or down, it doesn't respond to control. 2: Headlight warning lights is on all the time because bulbs are burn out so soon after replacement .

I have been having this issue for several months. First, it was the steering wheel being locked. I believe at one point and time on the past they updated the computer on that vehicle. But this time the dealer told me there is nothing they can do. As of today, the car won’t start. How can I go to work? There is no Safety Recall for this, but I didn’t brake the car’s computer, I don’t even know and want to know where it is located.

There was a recall Electronic Power Steering (EPS) motor connector that was being done for 2017 hyundai elantras and my car is affected by it. Hyundai is saying my car is not affected by the recall that they put out for this issue.

After no previous issues, car stalled out multiple times on short drive to work. No warning lights and no subsequent diagnostic codes were reported. Upon final restart, engine started knocking severely. Upon investigation, the oil stick showed no oil in the pan. Vehicle was towed to trusted, licensed mechanic for evaluation where we were informed about the potential of a failure due to rapid oil consumption. The mechanic confirmed the engine failure to to oil loss. Vehicle had received regular, documented maintenance and fluids were checked periodically between cycles. There was no low-fluid indicator prior to the mechanical failure. Dealership-level conversations confirmed the rapid oil consumption issue for the 2017 Elantra is common, but because the vehicle VIN was not listed as part of a prior recall no assistance could be provided to repair the engine. The dealer provided a full cost quote of $9,000 to replace the engine block with a remanufactured unit.

Driving on the highway in the far left lane. Check engine light came on, car stopped accelerating. Car came to a stop, car shut off. Smoke was coming out from under the hood and flames were seen underneath the car. Police and fire department arrived. Report states an electrical fire. Had car towed to Hyundai. Hyundai stated that the engine seized followed by the starter catching on fire. Car was only 2,000 miles in from last oil change. Was up to date on maintenance and safety inspection. Hyundai also stated there was a hole in the engine block. No prior issues with the car. The car would need roughly $16,000 in work done, confirmed by Hyundai. Car is now totaled. Car only had 121,000 miles on it.

With no 'low oil' warning, the car's engine started may a knocking noise. Then, all kinds of warning lights started. Parked the vehicle and checked the oil the next day and there was NO OIL in the engine. This should not have been the case considering this car gets regular oil changes. Also, there was no oil spots or stains on the driveway to also indicate an oil leak. This happened to my son while driving home from work on the interstate at 10:30 at night. That is concerning.

PROBLEM: DEALER CREATES FINANCIAL BARRIERS TO RECALL COMPLETION I am reporting systematic barriers to recall completion created by Hyundai's authorized dealer that forced me to incur $834.60 in transportation costs for what should be a "no charge" recall repair, potentially discouraging recall compliance. THE BARRIER: UNCONSCIONABLE LOANER TERMS PREVENT RECALL COMPLIANCE How Dealer Creates Recall Barrier Capitol Hyundai's Loaner Contract: Service Manager Tray Nichols confirmed in writing (email 12/15/25, 7:42 AM) that loaner customers are liable for "ANY new damage that was not present before," including: Rock chips from highway driving Door dings in parking lots Small scratches from normal use Customer pays all repair costs Customer pays insurance deductible Customer risks insurance rate increases Why This Creates Barrier to Recall Completion Statistical Reality: AAA research: Average driver gets 1-2 windshield rock chips per year Over 36-day recall service period, rock chips are statistically inevitable Door dings in parking lots over 5+ weeks are unavoidable Customer cannot prevent damage no matter how careful Financial Risk to Customer: Potential repair costs: $500-1,000+ Insurance deductible: $500-1,000 Insurance rate increases: Long-term costs Total risk: $1,000-2,000+ for "free" recall Customer's Forced Choice: Use loaner → Risk $1,000-2,000+ in costs Don't use loaner → Pay for alternative transportation ($834.60 in my case) Delay/avoid recall → Keep driving defective vehicle Result: Financial disincentive to complete recall

While driving, pressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle hesitated and stalled. No warning lights came on until after I attempted to turn the vehicle back on then the check engine light and low oil light were illuminated. My vehicle was towed to a local mechanic and I was informed that the engine was blown and to tow my car to a Hyundai dealership as I was still under the 10 year/100k mile warranty. After getting my car to Hyundai, I was told I had to get a combustion cleaning for $800 whether the cleaning worked or not before any warranty work could be completed. The cleaning did not work and it was then found that a pin was sheared off inside the engine. My engine was then replaced under warranty but I still had to pay for the cleaning. A second mechanic looked over my paperwork after getting my car back 2 months later and noted that the engine failure could have been diagnosed without the cleaning as the cleaning would not have affected where the pin was sheared off. My 2017 Elantra had 90,315 at the time of this incident.

to whoever it is that can help, I am reaching out to submit a formal complaint regarding my 2017 Hyundai Elantra due to ongoing mechanical and structural issues that began very shortly after I purchased the vehicle, which have progressively worsened. I made the purchase in January 2024 for approximately $13,000 with 60,000 miles. The vehicle now currently has approximately 108,000 miles. Since purchasing the car, I have experienced consistent time consuming and serious issues that I believe indicate defects in manufacturing or design. First, the thermostat had failed during the first winter season I owned the Elantra, despite replacement the vehicle’s heating system still does not function properly. I’m not a fan of the cold. Also, the engine burns oil at an extreme rate. I am required to add oil literally every 2–3 days to prevent the engine from running dry, which presents a serious risk of engine failure and potential safety hazards while driving. And is also costly as oil is not cheap. In addition, the vehicle’s headlights developed spiderweb pattern cracking and shattered from the inside after approximately nine months of use, without any external damage. The paint has chipped across the vehicle, including in door jambs and other protected areas, suggesting poor paint quality. And recently, the lower engine underbody cover has completely broken down and disintegrated over time due to clips constantly falling out. Given the age of the vehicle and the normal use, the amount and severity of these issues are unacceptable. These defects have caused significant financial burden and raise serious concerns on vehicle safety and manufacturing quality. I am requesting that this complaint be reviewed for potential defects or recalls. I would also like Hyundai to be held accountable, either through compensation for the repairs required or replacement. Thank you for your time and attention to this matter. Sincerely, Owner of the 2017 Hyundai Elantra

I bought a car in Hyundai ELANTRA2024 at drivers Mart in Orlando, Florida. About a month after I bought the car I brought it back for something to service dealership area and let them know that the paint was coming off my car. I did notice that there was a tiny little spot that someone putcover paint about a half inch to an inch. The service people the dealership told me that there was a known classaction lawsuit. They weren’t sure what had happened. I looked up the Class action lawsuit for peeling paint, and it did state that there was one for white, beige, and light blue in Canada that was an ongoing lawsuit. The one for US was only doing certain white vehicles. But there was a class action lawsuit for USA, but it was dismissed I think because they thought that it had to do with pebbles or something that came on the freeway etc. basically said it was buyers fault. So now I have taken it to Hyundai dealerships talking to corporate office making appointments four times, now my car as you see is almost 12 inches in diameter by eight more or less and getting bigger by minute because every time I wash the car{has to be by hand, or it rains. My car is bubbling the paint the paint on my car is all the way down to the metal. The metal is not protected so it’s actually rusting, etc. every time it rains it will add another couple inches to my paint coming off. I have called the corporate office again and got my answer on Wednesday, January 5 stating that there’s nothing else they can do, because my car’s is not on the recallThis does not make any sense. Obviously there’s a Facebook/Google sites called Hyundai paint peeling 7.7 k people are in the same predicament and very upset at Hyundai motors not doing anything. Is there any governments or state regulations that are helping people get their car painted or helping people have them be accountable for everything that needs to be done? Government/local have done nothing what is the agency that we need to contact?

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 MPH, the steering wheel became difficult to turn to the left or the right. The contact stated there was no warning light illuminated. The contact had taken the vehicle to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed and determined that the power steering module needed to be replaced. The mechanic advised the contact of NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering) and referred the contact to the dealer. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact called a local dealer and was informed that the VIN was not included in the recall. The contact stated that the loss of power steering functionality was intermittent but gradually became a recurring failure. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 18,000.

Component or System Involved Engine and internal lubrication system. The engine and related components are available for inspection upon request. Description of the Problem In January 2025, this vehicle experienced a catastrophic engine failure and seized. An independent repair facility inspected the engine and reported metal fragments in the engine oil, indicating internal engine damage. The vehicle was then transferred to a Hyundai-authorized dealership for major engine repairs, which were completed on January 18, 2025. Less than one year later, the vehicle developed excessive oil consumption. In October 2025, the engine stalled and was found to have no oil, despite having received an oil change approximately one month earlier. The vehicle is currently undergoing Phase 2 of Hyundai’s oil consumption testing. The dealership has indicated a full engine replacement will likely be required. Oil consumption has been measured at approximately 1.5 quarts per 1,000 miles. This vehicle is not currently included in Hyundai’s engine recall or warranty extension, despite being the same make, model, and model year as vehicles that are covered and exhibiting the same failure characteristics. Hyundai and NHTSA have documented similar engine defects on other Elantra models due to piston oil ring issues, resulting in excessive oil consumption and engine failure. My vehicle exhibits the same symptoms and failure mode. Safety Risk Excessive oil loss can result in sudden engine stalling or seizure without warning, creating a risk of loss of propulsion while driving, including at highway speeds. Confirmation or Reproduction of the Problem The failure has been confirmed by an independent repair facility and by a Hyundai-authorized dealership through inspection and ongoing oil consumption testing. Inspections by Others The vehicle has been inspected by both an independent repair facility and a Hyundai-authorized dealership.

Year/Make/Model: 2017 Hyundai Elantra ________________________________________ Component or System Involved Exterior paint and primer adhesion on multiple body panels. Affected areas are available for inspection upon request. Description of the Problem This vehicle has experienced progressive paint peeling and delamination over approximately five years. The issue was first reported to Hyundai at approximately 60,000 miles, when peeling was limited. Since that time, large sections of paint have peeled from the hood, roof, and other exterior panels, exposing bare metal. Hyundai reviewed the condition and declined assistance. Hyundai has acknowledged similar paint and primer adhesion failures on certain vehicles through Warranty Extension Z05 and related Technical Service Bulletins. My vehicle, while not included due to paint color, exhibits the same type of paint failure. Safety Risk Paint delamination presents potential safety concerns, including glare from exposed surfaces, driver distraction, and the possibility of paint material detaching from the vehicle while in motion. Confirmation or Reproduction of the Problem The condition has been visually confirmed by the vehicle owner and reviewed by Hyundai. Inspections by Others The vehicle’s paint condition has been inspected by Hyundai representatives. Warning Lamps or Symptoms No warning lamps or messages are associated with this condition. The issue developed progressively over time. ________________________________________ Request for Review I am requesting that NHTSA review whether paint delamination and primer adhesion defects acknowledged by Hyundai may extend beyond the currently covered paint colors and affect additional vehicles of the same make and model. Reference: Hyundai Warranty Extension Z05 and related Technical Service Bulletins documenting paint adhesion failures. Thank you for your time and consideration

Excessive oil consumption/ vehicle dies while driving.

The contact owns 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 20 MPH and depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle hesitated and stalled. The check engine warning light and the low coolant level warning light were illuminated. The contact stated that a bystander assisted in pushing the vehicle into a parking lot. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the camshaft needed to be replaced. Additionally, the dealer diagnosed that the Continuously Variable Valve Timing (CVVT) and the timing chain needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 21V727000 (Engine); however, the model of the vehicle was not included in the recall. The dealer notified the manufacturer of the failure and was informed that the cost of the repair would not be covered because the VIN was not included in the recall. The failure mileage was 99,112.

I've owned a 2017 Hyundai Elantra for a few years now, and it has been a headache. Over the course of the past year and a half, the engine has went out (seized) not once, not twice, but three times without any warning. I go to start the car one day and the engine bay starts shaking and power of the engine goes either completely out or down significantly. It feels like a gamble every few months of if my car will simply stop working. I've had the engine rebuilt twice already and will probably have to have it rebuilt again for the same issue (the timing).

Both Driver and Passenger doors do not open from the outside.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the contact heard an abnormal whistling sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an unknown dealer, where it was diagnosed that the fuel pump was fractured and had failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 15,000.

The contact owned a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that they were informed by a family member that when the vehicle was turned on and moved into the driveway, smoke was coming from underneath the hood, where the engine was located. A while later, when returning to the vehicle, they noticed the vehicle had caught fire. The fire department was called and extinguished the fire. There were no injuries or medical attention needed. The contact was unsure if a report was filed. The vehicle was towed and determined totaled. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Paint is peeling on hood and roof. Hyundai has recalled some vehicles with white paint but there are other colors affected. My car color is symphony silver.

Check engine turn on , sent to shop for check up and they find out the engine is leaking.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to be restarted. The contact also stated that the rear passenger’s side door failed to open when the unlock button was engaged. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that the engine had failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not diagnosed regarding the door failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,541.

Was traveling at 5mph in traffic. Pressed the brake to stop, and my car kept rolling. I pressed the foot pedal brake many many times without stopping. I pulled the emergency brake and I still didn’t stop. I came to rest on the back bumper of a semi truck in front of me.

Dual clutch transmission failed at 49,000 miles

I own a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The vehicle has developed an issue with the steering column worm shaft bearing, which is documented in Hyundai’s Technical Service Bulletin 20-ST-003H-1. When turning the wheel, the steering intermittently feels loose and unresponsive, creating a sensation of loss of control. This is especially noticeable during turns and lane changes. Hyundai has acknowledged this problem in a TSB, but no recall has been issued. Since this defect affects the steering system and can compromise safe handling of the vehicle, I believe it should be classified as a safety defect and covered under a recall. This issue poses a serious risk of loss of vehicle control and potential crash

[XXX], this is the 2nd time driving in the freeway going 55 mph and steering wheel automatically lock . [XXX] first time it happens and it is really scary going 60 in a freeway and steering locked itself. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

My EPS, ABS and electronic stability control lights all came on at once and my steering wheel went stiff while driving on interstate

Oil consumption, 1 quart a week with no known or visible leaks. 64,000 miles

This is for a paint problem that my car has lost its paint within six months. My car is peeling off very fast and there was a class action lawsuit. And now a new one has started. I see nobody at your office wants to help people.

the defrost does not work good, Hard to see when it's raining and fog

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at a slow speed, the electric power steering message was displayed. The contact was unable to steer the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who confirmed that the vehicle was not included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering). The vehicle was diagnosed and repaired. The manufacturer was contacted but declined to provide additional assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 83,590.

Back door on driver's side will not open from inside or outside when door is unlocked. I have checked and the child safety feature is not on. I have not had it checked into yet. No one rides in the back currently but this is a definite safety hazard. No messages/warning lamps of any problems. I wanted to place a few grocery bags back there and it would not open. Have repeatedly tried over a couple of months and nothing changes. Even though I can hear it unlock.

When driving at low speeds(20mph and under) vehicle stalls. It appears to happen at random. It makes driving pretty dangerous for other vehicles that would not be able to tell the vehicle has stalled and hit me at low speeds. All electrics stay on, there is no check engine light. The problem first appeared after ignition lock was broken, even before replaced it started stalls at low speeds, seems to possibly happen more after engine is warmed up.

RAPID LOSS OF POWER FAILURE OF IGNITION COIL. HAPPENED FOR ALL FOUR. SUDDENLY UNABLE TO OPEN FRONT OR REAR DOORS ON PASSENGER SIDE. ACTUATOR FAILURES. BOTH OF THESE CONDITIONS REPORTED TO HYUNDAI, MY COMPLAINT IS THAT HYUNDAI IS WELL AWARE OF THESE PPROBLEMS DEALER CONFIRMED THEY ARE COMMON ACROSS MODELS. THEY ARE EXPENSIVE REPAIRS. WHY ARE THEY NOT RECALLS. COILS HAPPENED ABOUT 2023 WITH 55000 MILES (OUT OF WARRANTY). DOORS ARE CURRENT AND I CANT AFFORD $2000 FOR REPAIR.

While driving down the road, the car lost complete power. No warning lights came on until after the car had lost power. Car struggled to start back up. I put flashers on in hopes that others would notice my disabled vehicle in the middle of the road, while it was also pouring down the rain. The vehicle was towed to my local dealership where it was confirmed that I would need a new engine. The engine had a high oil consumption issue that caused it to stale while driving. The dealership informed me either there was a rod bearing issue or a piston slap in the engine. They recommended to park the car until fixed

A car pulled out in front of me. I hit my brakes and now the calipers are locked. When the incident happened the brakes on the left side of the car locked up. I have no warning lights and the caliper is still locked. I have been to a couple mechanics and no one understands. If you unplug the brake line from the ABS unit the calipers release. Front calipers, brakes, and brake lines have been replaced

Hi, Over the course of the 8 years I have owned this vehicle. The brake lights have needed to be replaced multiple times on multiple areas. This is a common issue that there’s entirely Facebook and Reddit pages dedicated to because of the known faulty harness issues. It is an incredibly expensive repair and these parts should be recalled as they are a known issue. My service guys know it. Every Hyundai owner knows it. And even random Facebook/redditors know it.

unknown, stalls randomly after driving for about 10 minutes

The vehicle has experienced ongoing powertrain and electrical malfunctions over several months. The most common symptoms include being stuck in 4th gear (limp mode), complete loss of RPM and speedometer readings, and illumination of the check engine and ESC lights. Most recently, while traveling at approximately 10 mph, the vehicle experienced a sudden loss of both acceleration and braking. The brake pedal became stiff and unresponsive, and the car had to coast to a stop without driver control. This posed a serious safety risk to myself and nearby traffic. These issues have persisted across multiple service visits to Ricart Hyundai in Groveport, Ohio. That dealership has replaced the crankshaft position sensor three times, the powertrain control module (PCM), and the battery, but the underlying problems remain unresolved. A technician at the dealership was able to reproduce the stalling event during a test drive. Despite that, the dealership has refused to proceed with further diagnostics unless I pay for an oil change, even though previous inspections by their own staff found no visible leaks and confirmed the oil level was sufficient at the time. They have also revoked complimentary access to a loaner vehicle despite the unresolved and unsafe condition of the car. The vehicle remains available for inspection. The problem has been confirmed by a dealership, has occurred repeatedly, and continues to pose a safety concern. Warning lights and gauge failures typically appear when the issue occurs.

Odometer Fraud. The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic for servicing, the contact was informed that there was a mileage discrepancy. Additionally, the contact was informed that the check engine warning light had been tampered with and tape had been applied over the check engine warning light prior to the purchase. The vehicle was a dealer sale. At the time of purchase, it was reported that the mileage was 85,000, and upon taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic shop, it was discovered that the mileage on the Carfax report was 215,000 on September 2024.

Door lock actuator on rear driver's side door not working. Door stuck closed, even though power to lock is present and locking / unlocking mechanism works. Door will not open from inside or outside.

My auto has a problem with the brake light on the drivers side not working at some times. The issue seems to happen almost every 6 months or so. The first time it stopped working, I took my auto to the dealership where i purchased it from costing me about $65.00, the second time 6 months later the brake light went out again. The bulb was replaced by the dealership at no charge, I was told that the bulb was put in wrong. The brake light is now out again. I noticed that it may come on but when I press the brake pedal and release the emergency brake, it goes out and stays out until I shut the auto off for a long period of time. Often it will be on when I'm driving and then it goes out.

I was told by the mechanic about the following. My car has shown engine oil burning issue, and it made the timing chain placing in the faulty function frequently. I changed the timing chain last year and was advised that I would need to check engine oil level because of engine oil burning issue. I was advised to check it at every 2500 miles. Recently my car showed check engine light on again, so I visited the repair shop and found out that the engine oil was totally gone before 2000 miles. The synthetic engine oil change should be at every 5000 miles. The rapid engine oil consumption made my car getting check engine sign on and I was told that it eventually would stop my car. And I was told that it is very hard to fix it because it is due to faulty engine issue.

My vehicle was towed to manly Hyundai in Santa Rosa Ca June 18,2025. The vehicle when driving steered all over the lane then locked up on me almost causing a crash. The dealership says it’s the electrical column assembly. My vehicle is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra but don’t see any recall on it and I am being charged $3400.00. The red steering wheel light went on . I’m looking for a recall on this vehicle seems many others have had the same issue. I do not have any receipts yet since it was towed and parts are being ordered and work will start this week. As soon as I have paperwork I can forward it to you. Thanks for your help in advance. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle lost automotive power and then lost power after driving a short distance. No warning light was illuminated. In addition, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine. The vehicle was taken to a local independent mechanic; however, the failure was not replicated. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously taken to the same independent mechanic, and the spark plugs were replaced. The local dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 150,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the brake pedal felt stiff while depressed. Additionally, the vehicle failed to slow down as intended. No warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that prior to the failure, the brake pads and rotors were replaced. The local dealer was contacted; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired due to the cost. Upon further investigation, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V063000 (Service Brake, Hydraulic); however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 63,000.

passenger front door wont open as of2-15-25 and rear door won't open as of 3-14-2024

Timing chain looseness, Sudden loss of engine power/motive power. Vehicle was sold, unknown if available for inspection. Engine failure on and in the middle of the interstate/highway, and this caused a major crash risk, and safety hazard. This make and model of vehicle has multiple reports of similar incidents. The repairs would’ve cost over 3 times the value of the car. As stated by the vehicle manufacturer, the entire engine would need to be replaced, with a factory built engine in order to comply with NHTSA and safety regulations. I’m no longer in possession of the vehicle. It was sold. While the vehicle was operating, and drivable there would be a chime and a flashing check engine light/indicator on occasion. Although no codes were present at maintenance center, therefore unable to identify the exact cause.

Car had check engine come on with No significant symptom. Mechanic said this code leads them to either timing chain, phasers, or piston valve all located in the engine. The car does not have much time at this point. It’s very costly after just having changed all the oil gaskets from a leaky engine. Mechanic said it will suddenly get bad if left unpaired and could be dangerous for me while driving.

See attached document for complaint.

Coil 1 & 4 misfire. Won’t accelerate well & engine light blinks. Car will stall then die when engine light blinks too much in 1 minute.

I was currently in an accident and my airbags did not deploy. My safety was at risk because I am pregnant. The vehicle was inspected by insurance representatives or body shop. No warning or other symptoms of problems prior to failure

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle was intermittently shuddering while accelerating. The vehicle was taken to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the timing belt and exhaust camshaft needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and referred the contact to the dealer who confirmed the diagnostic results. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and opened a case. The failure mileage was approximately 108,000.

My car has been stalling and shaking for months on acceleration. This has put me in unsafe situations where vehicles are going very fast on the highway and I am going 20 miles under the speed limit, or I am accelerating to merge and my car fails to accelerate, or I'm on the regular road and my car slows to a crawl while people are coming in fast behind me. The Error Code is: Cylinder 3 misfire. Took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it because the light was not on, they updated the software, as soon as I drove home the problem came back. They still charged me $200 for service, even thought the vehicle is under powertrain warranty which covers the cylinder block head and all internal parts. Online research shows this is a common problem in 2017 Hyundai Elantras. Many tried replacing coils and spark plugs only for the problem to return again a few months later. One successful fix found the computer needed to be replaced with a new one.

Constant misfire issue causes vehicle fo completely bog down while driving..

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while attempting to park the vehicle in a driveway, she was unaware if she was depressing the brake pedal or accelerator pedal; however, the vehicle accelerated out of control and crashed into her barn, where it came to a stop. No air bags deployed. The contact stated that she did not sustain injuries. No medical attention was required. The contact stated that a police report was filed. The vehicle was towed by her insurance company. The fire department was at the scene. The contact mentioned the vehicle was stuck in the barn on both the driver and passenger sides of the vehicle. The contact mentioned that the seat belt did not retract. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

November 1st, 2024 My husband and I were northbound on I71/75 at mile marker 160 while traveling in the high speed lane, doing 65 mph, when the car suddenly lost power, the check engine light immediately came on (NO prior) warnings. The car would not respond, had to coast to the side of road while traffic is whizzing past us at 65+ mph. The car at that point was DOA, lights would come on but motor would not respond . After many discussions with Hyundai corporate and sending them proof of eligibility for remaining factory warranty (window sticker information) that I was told in detail by the dealership representative. I was told emphatically that with it being a lease turn in that I was still eligible for all remaining warranties. Hyundai corporate says that even though I only have 88,000 ( odometer reading at purchase was 24,147) of a 10year/100,000 warranty on the engine. Hyundai corporate says that because I wasn't the original purchased that the warranty is null and void. I feel like there is something very wrong here when these warranties can be voided at the whim of the manufacturer. I have since had to purchase another vehicle in order to make it to the VA medical center for my husband and make it to the hospital for my cancer treatments.

The electronic power steering is not working in my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. My vin# is showing as unaffected for this specific recall, however I am having the same issue that the recall is for. I have a code that came up for the electronic power steering. It is quite a coincidence.

Engine light keeps coming on... took back to dealer twice coil misfiring had to be replaced Car was bought in 2018 Coils were replaced twice in 2020 because of check engine light and car not running In 2024 coils had to be replaced again because of engine failure 2025 blinking check engine light on again engine failed needs to be replaced Maxon Hyundai refused to replace the engine.,. Car has 86,000 miles Does not meet the 100000 threshold

The vehicle has been randomly shaking at idle since around 100,000 miles. There have now been a few instances where the engine will shake when decelerating. There are no warning lights, codes, or diagnostic readings that have given a solution for this. Around 145,000 miles the engine began to shake aggressively while driving, as I stopped and put the car in park the engine light, oil light, and battery light came on and then the entire system failed and the car shut off and could not be turned back on. This happened on a “highway” CA-108. I was stranded in the middle of the road, during school traffic hours. I towed the car to the dealership where they said they couldn’t replicate the concern but replaced the oil control valve. It has been 2 months since the repair, the vehicle is again starting to shake when decelerating. I now pull over when this happens though it typically stops within 45 seconds. I have seen the other Elantra engine recalls and feel as though mine fits the description.

The rear door no longer open and the front doors need to be tugged several times before opening. This is a huge safety problem and I’ve seen many others with my type of vehicle and year with the same problem. The actual door problem is unknown. I just know they will not open and it all happened at once. I haven’t gotten into an accident or no force to prevent the door from opening has not happened. So I’m not sure of the actual problem.

Issue with engine burning oil after I passed 104000 miles. I had my oil changed just after 100000 with no issues and just before the 104000 mile mark my Elantra began to make a clicking noise and my oil light came on. I took it to get the oil changed and I was told I was completely out of oil. I began monitoring the issue every few days and after traveling about 300 miles in a day I rechecked the oil level and noticed a definite drop in level. I contacted the dealer and was told nothing could be done due to the fact it was over 60000 miles and there were no active recalls. There is an TSB posted for the issue already. As well as there are recalls for the 2014-2016 hyandai Elantras burning oil after 100000 miles.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the vehicle was making abnormal sounds while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where unknown engine parts and a computer part were replaced; however, the failure recurred. The contact stated that while coming to a complete stop, the vehicle was jerking. The low oil pressure warning light was illuminated; however, the contact stated that an oil change had recently been performed on the vehicle. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer, where it was diagnosed with excessive oil consumption. The dealer determined that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the repair could not be covered because the VIN was not under recall. The failure mileage was approximately 202,000.

Front doors won't open from outside.

Identical problem also reported under NHTSA 11632482 to an individual on other side of US and other report numbers for this 2017 Hyundai Elantra. This is a re-occurring hazard. Rear door while unlocked will not open from either inside or outside of vehicle. Very dangerous for passengers. I assume it is the door actuator.

Hi the smart junction box on this vehicle is acting up. When riding in free way all doors locked open automatically and then the headlights just went off, and all the 4 blinkers stopped working creating hazard to all people in the freeway including mine . Mechanic has quoted me 2k to fix the issue and replace the Smart junction box . Please provide me fairness in this matter

Motor locked up

The clutch/transmission clunks or jerks randomly when accelerator is pressed to gain speed, from stop or passing, in any drive mode. Believe this has been going on the past several years.

Air bag light will not turn off so I’m not sure if the air bags work. Oil is going missing from the car causing it to suddenly shut down. It also makes the rpm’s go really high (close to 5,000) when trying to go up hills or accelerate. I don’t see a leak, or puddles under the car, nor black smoke.

VEHICLE PASSENGER DOOR SUDDENLY BECAME UNABLE TO OPEN. MECHANIC SAID THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN MANY MODELS AND YEARS OF HYUNDAIS.

My 2017 Elantra with 107,000 miles (it has a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty) on it has just experienced the same issue as all of the other Hyundais that have been recalled. I was driving on Xmas evening 2024 and started hearing my engine making noises I had not heard before when excellerating but then they would go away. On my way home the check engine light went on for a couple of minutes but then went off and I was able to get home although the car did not seem to be riding well. The next day, the check engine light went on again and so I brought it in to my mechanic. He said that there were metal fragments/shavings in my oil that were clogging my engine, etc. He said that I need a new engine and said he had several other Elantras with the same issue and that I should take it to a Hyundai dealer because of all of their recalls/Class Action Lawsuits which extend warrantees, etc. for the same exact issue. I was able to drive the car there but it was not a safe drive. Their assessment was basically that I need most of my powertrain replaced to the tune of $4100.00 but once they get in there, it might be more extensive and end up having to be replaced. However, they did not say anything about the metal fragments and when I brought it up to them, they acted like they didn't see them. However, my mechanic (with no skin in the game) said they were all over the place in my car's oil. So, I am a little wary that they decided to skate that issue, since it is the basis for all of their Class Actions, etc. I'm kind of stuck, Hyundai has my car and it really isn't drivable. I've checked many Elantra forums and have seen that this is happening to Many other 2017 Hyundi Elantra SE even though they have not yet been added to the recalls/Class Actions, etc. I really think that the Hyundai engine issue is more widespread than just the cars on the current list and I hope that this is looked into as it is extremely dangerous and comes on very quickly without warning.

IN FRONT OF VEHICLE THERE ARE SIDE MARKER PARK LIGHTS AND IN CENTER THERE ARE 2 PARK LIGHT TURN SIGNAL COMBINATIONS. DRIVERS SIDE PARK LAMP IN CENTER WORKS PASSENGER SIDE DOES NOT INSIDE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY ON PASSENGER SIDE THERE IS NOT A POWER FEED WIRE ON ORIGINAL OR REPLACEMENT FOR THE PARK LIGHT CIRCUIT. DRIVERS SIDE DOES HAVE THIS WIRE.

The door locks are faulty and do not allow the door to open. This is the second time the vehicle has had issues with the doors not unlocking. The first time it was my front passenger side a few years ago and I paid an auto shop to repair it as this was an immediate safety concern in case of a car accident or fire. A few months later Hyundai issues a recall and sent me an email about the faulty door locks and that they could be repaired at a Hyundai. I called to ask for reimbursement since I paid out of pocket and they refused. Now another door lock is broken, this time the rear driver side, and I have the same safety concerns as before since the door does not open from the inside or outside. In both cases, the issue was sudden and no other damage occurred to the vehicle. It's unsafe to have to drive with doors that cannot unlock from either inside or outside.

I am writing to formally lodge a complaint regarding the ongoing recall issue with my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I am extremely frustrated and disappointed with both Hyundai and the dealership’s handling of the recall and the associated repair costs. We received a recall notice for our vehicle last year, at which point we promptly took the car to the Hyundai dealership. Despite multiple attempts to address the issue, we have experienced significant delays, poor communication, and no clear resolution from the dealership or Hyundai. After several months of waiting, we were informed that the recall, which pertains to paint damage caused by a manufacturer’s defect, would cost $3,200 to repair. Furthermore, we were advised that we would be responsible for an out-of-pocket expense of $1,000. We find this situation both perplexing and unacceptable. As consumers, we should not be burdened with costs related to a defect that is clearly the responsibility of the manufacturer. We purchased the vehicle in good faith and expect the manufacturer to uphold its responsibility for repairs related to defects covered by recall notices, especially when the problem is identified after the warranty has expired. The fact that Hyundai is only offering to cover 60% of the repair cost is unreasonable and further exacerbates our frustration. I am requesting that the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) investigate this matter and hold Hyundai accountable for its failure to resolve the recall issue in a timely manner, as well as its refusal to fully cover the cost of repairs related to a defect for which we should not be responsible. Please consider this letter a formal complaint, and I kindly ask for your assistance in resolving this matter promptly. I both dealership and Hyundai corporate admitted they sent the letter after the warranty expired. We’ve been dealing with this issue for over a year. Thank you for your time and attention to this matter.

Power windows stop working, car cuts off, heated seats stop working intermittently

Ignition coil failure. Causing misfires and rough idle. Misfire initially found in cylinder 2 when check engine light illuminated and check with an OBD II reader. Swapped the cylinder 1 ignition coil with cylinder 2. Check engine light returned the next day with the same signs. Check engine light and rough idle. OND II code scanner now says misfire in cylinder 1. The rough idle makes for slow acceleration until above 20mph.

My alarm keeps going off and car won’t start

The oil level burns down to next to nothing approximately every 2 months, with no oil light warning or engine light. However, the engine light does periodically come on but shuts down itself before able to get it checked. The same issues occured with my son's 2017 hyundai which caused the engine to blow and catch fire. His was recalled and repaired. His was a different model. The oil burn on my car has occurred at least 3 times. The steering feels as though it is grinding at lower speeds an makes parking difficult as well. Both of these issues are most concerning.

The cars just stops running as you are driving. It's happened multiple times. We've changed the crankshaft sensor & cleaned the fuel system. We saw these remedies online as multiple people are having this same problem with their Hyundai.

Was driving my car noticed that it was running a little rough and took it in for an oil change thinking maybe it was being a little weird because of that. I religious have my oil changed routinely. The gentleman changing my oil told me there was oil in the engine. Went to Hyundai and they did a diagnostics and told me that something had come off in the engine and clocked the oil gallery not allowing oil to flow through engine and power train. Was told it would be a $9000 engine replacement. I only have 93000 thousand miles on it still owe 3000 on it. Hyundai knows that their engines have been having issues. Salesman at Hyundai was trying to force me to buy a new car because of this issue. he was only going to give me 2500 on my car but told me if it had been in perfect condition then he would've 6000. This is not something I did to my engine it was something that came off in the engine and blocked the flow of oil

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 60 MPH, the vehicle stalled. The contact was able to veer to the side of the road. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle failed to restart and was towed to an independent mechanic, where the contact was informed that the engine pin in the crankshaft might have failed. The mechanic informed the contact that the engine needed to be taken apart for a definitive diagnostic test. The dealer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the VIN was not under recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.

Driving 55 miles an hour on [XXX] engine shut off and seized I filed a complaint with Hyundai corporation Claim number [XXX] They said they were going to make a decision October 25th still didn't hear anything called them back now they said October 30th The vehicle is sitting at Webb Hyundai Merrillville Indiana. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Hyundai claims its engines have a 100,000-mile warranty, but my Elantra 2017 engine blew up/ broke down just after 890200. Therefore, I called the Hyundai corporate office to fix my car. I also approached local Hyundai dealers at Jaining Road Hartford, Connecticut, but they refused to resolve my problem and denied replacing my car engine. I have no choice but to fix my car. I filed my complaint to Hyundai case no. [XXX], but Hyundai is not ready to resolve this issue. I have spent $4000.00 from my pocket to put my car on the road. I am requesting for the reimbursement. I have all the repaired bills and invoices. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The child lock is on the back left door and I can't get the door open from the inside or from the outside of my car it's been this way for two years first the dealer said they would fix it for free because it was a recall on it but they had to order the part then he never called back then a year later they said the part came in but they wanted to charge me alot of money to get my door with the child lock on it fixed. I told them last time they said it would be free of charge, then that's when they changed it and said it was no recall on the door so I'm still stuck years later without my kids and I being able to use the left back door on my car

The vehicle has about 136,000 miles and was driving when the engine just started knocking. There were no engine warning lights or any other indications there might be an issue. We Towed the vehicle to the dealer, and they advised that it needs a new engine. We are the original owners and maintained the vehicle with regular service and oil changes.

Loss of power steering assist that occurs at lower speeds that would require higher steering effort and which may increase the risk of a fatal/deadly crash.

Check engine light on Transmission sensor is wack Car slugs and knocks. This car also has the white paint defect! This is my first and last Hyundai, go to accelerate onto interstate but can barely get the car to go past 30mph

All four engine coils blew before 60,000 miles. The car was being used and maintained properly and there were no associated engine or spark plug defects noted. However, all four original engine coils failed and had to be replaced.

When my car was stolen and crashed the whole front end was smashed in but the air bags did deploy. I saw there's several recalls on these cars, one was the airbags. I never got any recall for it and it shows there are no recalls. The brakes have problems, being that it takes forever to slow down. I have to leave about 3 car lengths ahead of me because I can't stop, it takes a while to slow it down. And the steering wheel feels stuck. I had a friend drive it and he said the same thing. It's difficult to handle and not lose control. I'm to the place I'm scared to get on the highway anymore because not being able to stop quickly and swerving all over cause it's hard to control the vehicle. I have had zero recalls tho even with me experiencing this. And the paint is coming off, but at least that won't kill me.

Loosing power steering assist while driving.

2017 Hyundai Elantra SE sedan. Car starting stalling around turns and the next day engine had rattle and loud noises coming from engine. No lights to indicate problems prior to stalling out or engine issues.

Altimax RT43 205/55R16 The sidewall in the front passenger side tire has developed a very significant bulge. I have photos to confirm. I'm extremely concerned about an imminent blowout, regardless of speed, and the loss of control, significant damage to the front-right part of the car, wheel rim, and potentially causing accidents with other drivers. It hasn't yet been verified both 3rd parties (insurance, manufacturer, etc). I noticed it approximately 8/28/24 when a low-tire-pressure indicator came on on my dash. The tread is in good condition, and the tires have less than 20,000 miles on them.

My steering wheel locks up on me and the my check engine light flashes on as it does. I also have a steering wheel light with an explanation point beside it flashes when and before my steering wheel locks up! I can be sitting at a red light and my steering wheel locks up on me. My traction control light is also on and will not turn off. It turned on when my steering wheel locked up and my steering wheel icon came on.

The car engine is consuming too much oil causing the oil to run out of the car too soon. The car engine starts knocking & the car keeps cutting off.

Original catastrophic engine failure in Sept. of 2022 while exiting the highway, was able to safely leave roadway. Determined that the motor had suffered symptoms shared with models related to Recall 203. Hyundai honored "goodwill" repair, but the repaired motor began suffering substantial and sustained loss of power with evidence of cylinder scoring 1 year/20,000 miles after replacement. Secondary incident occurred while merging onto highway and required evasive maneuver to avoid collision. Car is now parked and cannot be driven due to inability to operate safely on the road. Summary of events, related correspondence to repair, goodwill repair sheet, and original purchase documentation attached.

Oil consumption. The engine eats oil and is now becoming a concern because timing is off. not to mention the numerous bills for other things going wrong now due to the oil consumption.

The engine failed without warning! The car stalled and could not be started again. There were no warning lights or indicators that the engine was having problems. The car had fresh oil and luckily I was just completing the safety check after an oil change. Had I been on the road, this could've been dangerous. The Hyundai dealership noted a seized engine with no further explanation without an extra $1000 charge. It will cost $10,000 to replace the engine that was well taken care of and only had 106, 748 miles on it.

White pearl paint peeling exposing metal while advancing and getting larger. Had issue shortly after purchasing the car and was addressed by dealership. Just got recall notice and VIN search showed it was covered since paint is peeling on the rear of the roof now. Different dealer but in same dealership says Hyundai refuses to honor recall because the front part of the roof was already repainted. This was before the recall was issued and was done for the recent purchase. The safety issue is that if not addressed, the roof will rust and damage the structural integrity of the cabin. When I just did a search, NOW there are no paint recalls for my VIN after inquiring about the fix with Hyundai customer service.

Power steering is loose or tight. It turns off while driving. Clunky sounds when it's working.

Doors are locking up for what reason I don't know. This is a safety problem and the dealership wants to charge me for their problems with the car.The maker of this know what the is , but charging 1500 dollars to correct their problem with these doors.

Our Hyundai Elantra Se 2017, engine blown. Started with knocking sound and when we stopped on the side of the highway it powered down. We have been told that unfortunately so many of hyundai's vehicle engines have been super problematic within the last decade. We were stranded on vacation. Had to pay for towing twice and a rental car to get back to North Carolina because we had to get back to work. We also have had to pay to diagnose the vehicle twice. We had the issue diagnosed with an independent service center Tuffys Auto in St. Johns Florida and now it currently is at Hyundai in St. Augustine. We have been without our vehicle for over a month and with the trending problems with these engines we shouldnt have to come out of pocket to fix it. Hyundai corporate has not been helpful at all even though we have had a case manager for over a month and they havent given us any info.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the vehicle was experiencing an abnormal oil consumption and engine oil needed to be added on several occasions. The contact inspected the vehicle but there were no leaks were found. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where no leaks were found. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer, but the diagnostic result was unavailable. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.

When car is unlocked the drivers door will not open until you pull 3 times. Now the passenger door will not open at all from the outside. You have to open door inside car and push door open.

Have a raw fuel smell every time I park my car

The vehicle engine is burning oil. I found my oil pan having little to no oil and having a burnt smell to it and only 70,000 miles on the odometer. Hyundai made me pay for to have a combustion cleaning to help with the issue and would not cover it! This could have had my car blow up having no oil

I've heard that 2017 Hyundai Engines have had some recalls and looking online at others with these vehicles also experiencing same problems. Car only has 82,000 miles and now cutting off in the middle of driving under 1500 RPMs also shaking until it cuts off. Seems these cars engine warranty should cover the attached repairs as we've always done excellent service on these vehicles. I'm trying to see if there is anything I can do as we now have a $3500 repair and have to get a rental car in order to get to work.

The engine of my vehicle malfunctioned. It is available for inspection upon request, it will have to be towed. The problem put myself and others in danger as the car stopped as I was driving in the middle of a 3-lane highway in the far left lane. Others were put in danger as they had to swerve to avoid hitting me. That itself could have caused a chain collision as other vehicles in the middle lane were put in danger. I was also at risk to get rear ended as one might not notice that my speed has stopped increasing. I have already had it towed to a local Hyundai dealership and auto shop; both said it needs a new engine. Towing receipt is shown below. I had no warning lights on my dash prior to the engine failure. A battery light and check engine light appeared after I was able to safely pull to the side of the road and try to start the car again.

The car doors on my Hyundai Elantra often have jammed frequently jammed the front door was repaired when A few weeks later the back driver side door also jammed and could not be opened from the outside Unless you pushed in and pulled out. Then it finally jammed altogether and would not open . If there were an incident and someone needed to get into the car to get my child out they would be unable to.

While driving on three occasions I was driving and my car completely shut off where I had to pull over once to restart the car. The other two times I was on the freeway and had to put the car in neutral and restart the car. I almost got hit both times on the freeway when this happened.

The rear passenger door will NOT open from inside or outside. The front passenger door will ONLY open from the inside. This is a safety concern with young children in car seats in the back or for general emergencies. F on my research this is a common Hyundai issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle failed to accelerate as needed and stalled. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was diagnosed by an independent mechanic, however; the contact was unaware of the diagnostic result. The contact stated that the independent mechanic stated that the vehicle was a total loss because and would cost more to fix than the vehicle was worth. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering). The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and confirmed that the vehicle was not under recall. The failure mileage was approximately 96,000.

When reversing and turning my wheels either right or left would hear a clunking sound. When putting my car in drive and straighten wheels, I would hear and feel something slip. While driving and making a right or left turn, on several occasions I have had to literally jerk the steering wheel to straighten vehicle wheels back straight to prevent from keep turning. Dealing with this issue and several trips to a dealership and the issue unresolved I went elsewhere. The automotive repair shop immediately shared with me the issue was related to the "steering coupler"! To date I am very concerned about the safety of driving my vehicle as to not knowing when or if it will completely fail while driving? Safety issue!

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while coming to a stop sign, there was a failure with the brake pedal. The contact was unable to depress the brake and instead engaged the parking brake to stop the vehicle. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer however, the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The dealer stated that after the vehicle was inspected, there were no failures found with the braking system. The contact stated that the failure persisted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 52,900.

I'm having issues with my car and I don't feel safe riding in it. While driving it start to coast. If I make a turn it shuts down. I am having some of the same issues some elantra having but because the VIN# doesn't show a recall I'm penalize for having this car.

My 2017 Hyundai Elentra Sport engine failed with 127,000 miles on it. Hyundai had a class action lawsuit for many models that guaranteed engine replacement and extended the life of the warranty to 15 years/150,000 miles. Unfortunately, it is the same issue with my model. Oil consumption issues resulting in a Blown piston. Oil was changed a week prior. Preston Hyundai confirmed that it was a Rod failure in the second piston. Paid the diagnostic fee and they put in a “Good Will claim and it was denied within 30 minutes. Preston Hyundai still has not sent me a receipt detailing their diagnostic or a copy of the goodwill claim after multiple requests. I want the record of this because the class action lawsuit that ended up protecting owners many years later

Without any warning lamps coming on, the vehicle car stalled while driving on the highway. It randomly stalls constantly when turning corners, especially on left turns (odd?). The scariest thing that happened was it got stuck on the speed limit of 55-60 miles per hour and I couldn't brake or accelerate. This put my kids, other drivers, and my life at risk. On Father’s Day, while my husband was out with the kids the vehicle tried to accelerate on its own when he was at a stop. It happened multiple times as he tried to make it home. Then when he was in stop and go traffic, it got difficult for him to brake. The brakes started failing. What more can I say?

Safety concern is that the car lost power without warning while driving on 4 lane highway. My son was attempting to pass another vehicle and he noticed the hyundai was not accelerating with his foot on gas pedal. he had to coast back across the lanes of traffic to avoid being hit. Confirmed issue:The car had to be towed and Hyundai dealer states the vehicle needs a new engine. Vehicle has been inspected by Hyundai dealer no warning signs at all

I bought my used Hyundai Elantra 20017 in July of 2022. It's at the shop again for the same thing. While driving, it will just shut off. In traffic. My son was with me a few times when this happened, almost causing accidents. It's in the shop, second time, for engine failure! This car is crap and needs a recall on the engine before someone/ people get hurt while they are driving it.

Loss of engine power, car shuts abruptly off while driving. increases the risk of a crash and death. Less than a year after I purchased my car from the dealer. My check engine light would turn on and off frequently. Secondary mechanics couldn’t diagnosis problem engine check would show unnecessary/ different codes. Car burns oil at a very fast rate. Shut of three times while driving yesterday on the LIE. I am scared for myself and my families safety. I can’t afford a new engine or car. Please help The 2017 Electra SE has many recalls for make and model. My vin isn’t under recall.

Since January 2024 I have had issues with my car starting due to low oil. I just had an oil change so I knew something was wrong. The repair shop stated there were no leaks and put more oil in and said that sometimes the car will not start if there is not enough oil. February 2024 and the car wont start again. Filled it with oil and took it to the shop again. They stated that the engine is eating the oil and to take it to the dealer for a test. Since then the car has turned off multiple time both while idling and while on the freeway. When you hit the gas it will not accelerate either. In the past I was able to turn the car off and back on again and it would work just fine but now it seems more frequent. Also, while driving when experiencing these issues I have had the stereo screen shut off and restarted by itself. At times the slippery when wet alert will also show on the dashboard which has been a sign for me that they car is going to act up so I turn it off right away and back on then it runs.

Rear Passenger door does not open.

For a little over a year now, my back doors do not open on my Hyundai Elantra. The child lock is not on. Also in the past year, my passenger and driver door do not open. I have to go back and forth on the handle 20-30 times before my door opens. I have changed the battery in the key fob and I have tried unlocking my doors with the actual key with no success. Sometimes if they do not open I have to go through my sunroof. This is such a safety issue it’s insane. I’ve called Hyundai dealerships but they said they will need to keep it for 2 weeks. I do not have any other vehicle to just leave it there for that long. Please help.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the contact stated that while decelerating, the vehicle independently turned off. Additionally, the check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact restarted the vehicle and drove to the destination. The contact stated that the vehicle then failed to restart. The vehicle was towed to the dealer; however, the vehicle was not diagnosed. The contact was informed that an engine teardown needed to be completed before the cause of the failure could be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was filed. The failure mileage was approximately 117,000.

the door handle doesn’t open from the outside, causing you to open from the inside

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that upon attempting to enter the vehicle, the driver's side door failed to open, after which he became aware that the failure existed with all four doors. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed failures with the door actuator on all four doors. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 35,000.

When I stop at stop signs or stop lights, the car will stall out. I have to turn off the car fully, turn it back on, and immediately step on the gas pedal in order to start the car up again. This was incredibly dangerous as the first few times this happened, the stoplights had turned green, but I could not move the car. I am also afraid that the car could potentially stall in the middle of driving. The engine light has turned on and the car was inspected by Hyundai and a third party auto shop. The third party auto shop informed me that they had seen multiple models of my car with the same issue. The car is available for inspection upon request.

My two back doors will not open they just opening

Some bad guys tried to steal my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. They broke the ignition from the steering column to gain access and try to start the vehicle. This is the same issue that still happening after 3 years from the Kia/hyundai boys ticktock hack. The federal gov need to intervine. This a very concerning safety issue. The cars are getting to easy to steal. We as consumers can do as much we can, but has been very difficult. It’s not fare for all us to paid for cost related to this issue (cars without immobilizer) like Hyundai and Kia’s. This 2 company’s should paid and respond to the gov and the customers for their fatal flaw in designing this cars.

I had my steering wheel telescope out and tilted up when driving down highway I had to hit my brakes Because of the car in front of me hitting his as I did so my steering wheel collapsed inward And down We'll do an approximately 45 miles an hour on the freeway. This could have caused me to lose control of the vehicle. And cause major injuries to others and was locked in positiand should have not been able to push in without it being unlocked.

The car randomly dies on de-acceleration. It gives no warning and I have seen online this is a known issue with this year/model. I have 55,000 miles on it, it's been regularly serviced. When I got to slow down then start to accelerate it shuts off. I've nearly been hit multiple times going to merge from a stop. It's very dangerous. I've replaced all 4 spark plugs, all 4 ignition coils, air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, PCV valve and I've only owned it 6 months. No engine light comes on and no reader is picking up any codes. I'm at a loss as to what causes this.

Car will lose power and quit suddenly on the highway with no warning lights. It has happened twice in the last month on a trip both times. Light’s low beam randomly won’t turn on either but high beams work. Had it into the Hyundai dealership and another mechanic shop but cannot find the problem.

My car has been dying while on the road when I'm slowing down. I have spent $2,700 to get this issue fixed, and after replacing everything the computer said was wrong, the auto shop has determined that the issue is, in fact, the computer itself. There is nothing left to fix, but the car still will completely shut down while driving. Not safe at all, especially since I live in a high traffic area. There are no warning signs before the car shuts down, but lights do show up on the dash when it has shut down. The check engine light, oil light, and battery light come on.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving to the emergency room at approximately 50 MPH, the vehicle began to lose motive power and the contact had to pull to the side of the road. The contact stated that when the vehicle was restarted, there was a knocking noise coming from the engine. The contact continued to drive the vehicle to the emergency room, and after leaving emergency room when the vehicle was started, the knocking sound continued. The contact stated that while coming to a stop light, the oil and check engine warning lights illuminated. The contact drove to a nearby gas station where 2.5 quarts of engine oil was added to the vehicle however, the engine continued making the knocking sound. The contact discovered an unknown NHTSA Campaign related to the engine however, the VIN was not included. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed with Low Oil Pressure, Low/No Engine Oil, Lower End Rod Block, and the dealer recommended that the engine be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was opened. The failure mileage was approximately 131,000.

My car has been stalling shortly after purchasing when slowing down and turning. Then it started stalling on the freeway which is a safety big time issue multiple times. Dealership spoke of maintenance they said it needed. They changed a part and parts on my car has been changed multiple times it doesn’t make since.

My passenger doors will not open from outside or inside when it is unlocked. It sometimes open when it wants but it causes trouble if I would have to get out of the car.

When driving about a month ago my car all the sudden started making a clinking noise not so much knocking in the engine or near the engine. And then it died all the sudden at a red light out of no where. Well I put the car into park and started my car again when I accelerate the rpm takes a lot longer to catch up to the speed I'm trying to go, so it takes longer to accelerate which is dangerous because cars usually accelerate alot faster than that and I almost got rear ended twice because of it. I parked it for a few days but moved recently so I had to move the car it started and everything but the knocking, or clinking was still there. The following day I went to start my car and know it won't even start and the anti theft light comes on, on my dash board. So now my car is stuck at a motel because of it. I think it may be the crank shaft position sensor. Yes my vehicle is available for inspection upon request. No my vehicle has not gotten in any accidents. It has not been inspected by a manufacturer.

Right Rear Door (Right rear passenger) will not open. all other three doors open and close. Right rear door will not unlock to open. This is a safety concern.

Entire engine needs to be replaced due to cylinder malfunction. My safety was at risk because the car would turn off randomly at red lights or when making wide turns. Sometimes, the car would not start and sometimes it would. The problem has been confirmed by an independent service center. No messages or lights appeared indicating an engine issue.

The Issue started back in December of 2023.The Engine failed while driving to Lake Worth, TX. Vehicle Information: Model is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Limited 2.0 Engine, US Built. Mileage during the1st incident was at 100,125 miles and the VIN Number is [XXX] . I was on a Maintenance plan the first 2 years with Clay Cooley Hyundai of Dallas with Dealership Warranty when I first purchased the vehicle back in 2017 so I kept up maint.Stalling began & was making a significant tapping noise.Dgnstcs were performed and I initially got Misfire codes P0303, P0300 &P0301. Ignition coils and sprk plugs were observed and replaced. Instantly following I ran another diagnostic and began receiving Camshaft codes P011.The VVT Solenoids were also replaced and this still did not resolve the issue. I was losing oil after every oil change and the oil was not lubricating the engine. I then took to a local shop and they said engine was beyond repair and had it towed to dealership. loud knocking noise from the engine that increases in frequency as the engine rpm increases. Then there is Reduced power and/or hesitation and vibration. With these issues the Illumination of the “check engine and Engine Oil Pressure” light come on in the instrument cluster. Safety Concerns: Stalling and Shutting off of the engine while driving at accelerated speeds is a Dangerous Manufacturing issue that could have resulted in a major car crash not only jeopardizing our safety but the safety of other drivers. Similar Incidents: There have been several reports and forums that we have read that report the same issues with their Elantras. Impact on You: This has impacted me Tremendously as the Dealership states that they cannot assist with the Damages and that I would have to come of pocket by paying over $8,000 to replace the engine. Financially this is beyond my means in what I can afford and stalls my primary source of transportation for commuting back and forth to work, taking care of day to day priorities. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Just to clarify, the vin number claims my vehicle is a 2017 Hyunda Elantra… but it is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra LIMITED, which there are differences in the design/model of the vehicles. The vehicle was not inspected at time of purchase like originally mentioned to me in our agreement. (They only transferred my registration to the new vehicle) I had done nothing out of the ordinary to the vehicle, after inspection the vehicle then displayed a check engine light and would not start after leaving work for the day. It then began to stall every time I applied pressure to the brake or slowed down. After inspecting the issue at Empire Hyundai they said the camshaft had been sheered by the cvvt pin and extensive repairs were needed. This happened in November 2023 and I have not been operating the vehicle since. I have gone through multiple sources to try to have this repaired by the dealership on their cost not mine due to me just purchasing the vehicle and this type of issue is a well known issue in Hyundais after they reach 100,000 miles- which I just surpassed.

I was driving and would hear a squeaking sound when turning right. Then I started to hear rattling I pulled in my driveway that has a curb and noticed an object sticking out that looks like it should have been screwed into something. It ended up being the front right passenger strutt it exploded through its casing. Not only damaging the casing but the hood of the car. If I would have continued to drive on it I could have loss control of the vehicle and put me and others in danger on the road. I was unaware this was a reoccurring issue with this model until I did some digging on the internet it sounds like a manufacturer defect. Now I was going to take it to hyundai dealership but they are stating they have to do a diagnostic for 170.00 which you can visibly see the strutt sticking out the hood. Everyone keeps saying the tire can come off this happened with no warning I am unsure of what to do.

My steering wheel locked while I was driving and it was very difficult to pull the car over to stop, as the steering wheel became very tight. I was in a roundabout and almost crashed. My EPS light came on and went off once I turned the car off. I have had the car looked at by a mechanic and the entire steering column needs to be replaced.

Car has faulty engine. Have spoke to mechanics all over the state saying Hyundai Elentras have engines that are bound to die on you . Car started out stalling while driving on highway at about 85,000 miles , I bought it used at 78,000. Have replaced the vvt solenoids because this is what the engine light codes have said were the problem. I have been to hyundai dealerships and they aren't doing anything because its no recall even tho since 2017 people have been reporting this problem all over the internet . Mechanic says I have another 2,500 miles if that left on the engine even though its barely at 120,000 miles . Ive seen online people having to get new engines as low as 50,000 miles . This is a obvious problem and with Hyundai’s being a foreign car I would think the government would push for a recall on there faulty products .

Driving at 70mph, another vehicle that is sitting on the grass on the side of the road decides to pulls out in front of me as I'm approaching(no warnings occurred from the collision assist system). I swerved to avoid the other vehicle and then he decides to pull into the lane that I'm trying to get into to avoid him. I break hard but not hard enough to lock the tires up or set off the ABS. Moments after that incident, faults begin to pop up on my instrument cluster, Check Lane Departure Warning System(LDWS), Check Autonomous Emergency Braking System(AEB) and Check Smart High Beam System. I figured that since some of these are safety related that I should report it. My vehicle has approximately 38000 miles.

For the past two weeks, the car has intermittently stalled out and the engine, oil, and battery lights come on. The dashboard electronics and radio stay on. When this happens, I have to put the car in park and turn it off, then turn it back on. It has restarted immediately each time and drives normally. It has stalled out multiple times in a day, but not everyday. I took it to my mechanic twice to pull an error code from the warning lights, but he could not. My safety and the safety of others were put at risk when it stalled out while I was deaccelerating on an exit ramp that merges with three other lanes. I could have been hit from behind by others exiting the interstate highway or hit on either side of my car from drivers switching lanes at that junction. It stalled out the same day in the middle of a roundabout, where drivers yield and merge at 30 mph. I've noticed that when it stalls out, I'm usually braking or the vehicle is turning. The car is currently at the mechanic, who has not yet been able to reproduce the stalling and warning lights, but he did pull a diagnostic trouble code: P010600; Description: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. He's not sure if it's a faulty sensor or if something is causing the trouble code since the warning lights weren't on with the code. The car has not yet been inspected by the dealership or others.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The contact was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be restarted. After restarting the vehicle, the vehicle returned to normal functionality, but the failure became a regular occurrence. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or an independent mechanic. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 95,000.

My back door on the driver side does not open at all from inside or out but the window still works, and the passenger side front door only opens from the inside

My vehicle keeps shutting down while I’m driving. It happened 5 times in the past week and twice today. It happens when I’m driving slow to make a turn or after the car has been stopped for a while (i.g. stop light and drive through window). Three out of five times were in areas where I could safely restart my car. The other two were in the middle of a busy expressway while making a turn and passing through a busy intersection. I was almost hit from behind. The car that swerved to avoid hitting me was also nearly hit by a vehicle in the other lane. I’ve done research and several other people had this issue but there’s no recall on my car. I don’t know if it’s a battery issue or electrical wiring, etc., but it is terrifying. Each time it happens my vehicle makes a strange rattling nose and I can’t quite tell where it’s coming from. The car also shakes for a while afterwards.

Driver's side door will not unlock. The other 3 doors unlock, but I have to go over to the passenger side and reach across to unlock the driver's side. I am an elderly female and it could be very dangerous out in a parking lot to be a victim of theft or violence. There should be a recall. Mileage is 81,000 and it's a 2017 Hyundai Elantra.

The index pin from the CVVT got stuck in my exhaust camshaft. I have replaced multiple sensors hoping those were the issue and not my CVVT and Exhaust Camshaft

I was driving down the street, and the air bags deployed in their own. I was injured.

Front passenger door doesn't open from the outside and rear left door won't open from the outside or inside of the car.This is a safety issues and I have kids, my son also has Autism.

Without warning, the rear, driver side door was unable to be opened from the inside or outside. Several months later in October 2023, the same issue has happened with the rear passenger side door. This a a safety issue because passengers will become trapped inside the vehicle since the doors are unable to be opened from the inside or outside! A Technical Service Bulletin has now been issued, however the dealership says that they are unable to replace the defective latches on the remaining two doors UNTIL THE PARTS FAIL! This would be the driver's and front passenger doors. The service technician JOKED that I would have to "Duke's of Hazard" the car and crawl out of the window if the driver's door failed!

I was driving and I was making a right turn and my steering wheel locked on me and I almost got into a accident most scariest experience ever and my steering coupler is not the problem!!

When turning I get a warning light on the dash with the symbol of a steering wheel and the wheel is hard to turn. This happens randomly and seems to be happening for now only when making a turn while stopped.

The doors will randomly stop working intermittently causing passengers to be stuck in the vehicle and in the event of an emergency making it difficult to safely exit the vehicle. The vehicle while In motion the engine would not function probably and would be flashing different engine light but never a code and the engine would stop

After driving the vehicle at night and turning the engine off certain exterior lighting components would not shut off. Turn signals and reverse lights and brake lamps we stuck in a static on position even when not being activate by turn signal switch or brake pedal being depressed

The entire engine failed and threw a rod on cylinder 3. My safety has been put at risk twice since the beginning of the engine troubles. The safety issue is I was merging onto a busy highways just fine until the accelerator wasn't doing anything. So frantically I had to start checking Visuals and there were none. There weren't any warning signs of the impending doom of the engine. It would just die out of no where like someone unplugged it, but then it would start right back up. Upon Making it home safely, thankfully. I start looking at all the basics and decided to change the oil as well as it was coming due in mileage very soon. To my surprise I was a missing half of the oil I put in it last change. There are no oil puddles or marking where I park my car nor have I seen any oil leaks after driving it for a while. It's like the oil disappeared. Needless to say the oil was quite dirty looking but no metal chunks or pieces and low some how. That same night I was driving and out of no where I heard a knocking and within seconds of that mh car died/stalled/seized up. Rendering the car useless and could of been a very serious safety issue has it happened in traffic. I couldn't stare it or anything, buy luckily somehow just made it to the shoulder barely before it stopped for good. 2 questions. 1) where did my engine oil go as I know I put just under 5 qts of fresh oil in it in August and only a couple months later the issue started and I had almost been running the engine dry due to excessive oil consumption of the engine amd I never received a low oil light or anything warning on the dashboard 2) how the heck did the original brakes last longer than the not even 7 year old engine? 3) why is nothing being done to help us out as I seen hundreds of the same type of complaint. Low oil engine from excessive consumption, the random power cut offs, and the knock emanating from the same exact place as others in the engine. BigManufacturers defects

The number 3 cylinder threw a rod through the cylinder wall. Previous to this happening the car HVAC fan wouldnt turn on unless switched to the on position and waited a while then it would suddenly turn on. It also would randomly shut down, not a stall, or the engine would lose power which happened to me the first shutdown of the engine merging onto the highway creating a huge safety problem. None of the warning lights were on and the car gave no indication of what was wrong or going on. The only time I got a warning light was a after the engine threw the rod. It shut down multiple times and/or had a loss of power. The engine only has 130k miles on it. Has been well taken care of with regular oil changes. It showed 0 signs before throwing the rod and made no noise. I'm only submitting it, because I can't be the only one who had this experience and would like there to be a record of it in order to ensure the safety of others and myself on the road.

Doors will not open

The initial problem was that the car began to stall out at slower speeds. This caused potential accident situations because of the sudden loss of control. We brought it to a service station which could not identify a specific problem. The car continued to experience this problem, so a couple of days later we brought it to a second service station. They thought it might be the crankshaft position sensor, so replaced that. While the second service was working on the car, they noticed a quiet knocking noise, which caused them to check the oil, which they found to be 3 quarts low, despite the fact that we had had the oil changed about 2 months (2,000 miles) earlier. There had been no warning light that the oil level was low prior to the service station checking it, and there was no indication of an oil leak. When we drove away from the second service station, the engine noise began getting much louder and the car again started stalling suddenly, so we brought it back to the service station. They indicated that the engine had likely been ruined as a result of the low oil situation, and suggested that we have it towed to a Hyundai dealership so they could address it. We did that, but Hyundai, after taking months to provide a response, determined that the problem was not one they would take responsibility for. We have done research and seen other consumers have this exact same problem, with similar non-support from Hyundai. I am also aware that there was a class action around this that seems to have been dismissed under odd circumstances. This problem is not akin to brakes wearing out; it is a clear manufacturing problem that causes very serious dangers to the public. Hyundai recognized this risk because they suggested a very aggressive oil-maintenance regimen to purchasers of these cars. They should stand behind their dangerous product. I have receipts and documentation supporting the above work by the service stations, including the prior oil change, if needed.

It has happened multiple times over the years that when I press the gas pedal to go, the car does not go or does not accelerate. Several times it has happened when attempting to make a left turn. So the car goes enough to get me in the way of the intersection but not very fast so I have been nervous that I might get hit. Generally stomping the pedal a second time gets it to move, but it is unnerving. I'm including the most recent date this has happened in the next part.

The driver's side door handle does not open on the first attempt. I have to pull between two and six times to get the door to open. This occurs attempting to enter the vehicle. I have not had issues attempting to leave the vehicle yet. It occurs after the doors have been locked. It does not matter if the door was locked using the fob or the button on the door handle. It also does not matter if the doors were unlocked using the fob or the button on the door handle.

The body of our car has been losing paint in big strips. As we drive, large paint chunks will fly off parts of our vehicle. Hyundai is aware that their 2017 "white pearl" Elantras are having this issue; however, they refuse to do anything to help with the cost of repainting the car. They claim that an extended paint warranty was issued until Dec. 10, 2022; however, the paint issue on our vehicle just began happening on October 11, 2023. On Oct. 11, we had another motorist stop us at a light to tell us that paint came off the roof of our car onto their windshield as we were driving down a state road. Paint is now bubbling and beginning to peel from different places on the vehicle (the roof, the hood, and the passenger side door). It is dangerous to other motorists on the road as the large strips of paint flying off can be distracting and/or can obstruct their view if/when it lands on their windshield.

On 6/3/2022 my car stalled in my work parking lot. My coworker was behind me and had to slow down as to not hit me. I took my car to a local Service Station who services our Company's cars as driving to the Hyundai Dealer would have been too far. They told me that it was out of oil. The oil light never went on and there were no oil stains in our garage where I park my car, nor anywhere else where I parked. I had 89,210 miles on my car at that time. Then on October 20, 2022, at 99,666 miles I was driving and it stalled again. Fortunately I was at a stop sign. When I brought it to the same service station again, they said it was out of oil. Again, the oil light never went on at any time to warn me. My VIN number does not come up in any of the Hyundai safety recalls for engine related issues, nor for the extended warranty yet I have the same issues as other engines included in the recall. Additionally they will not cover the repair (my engine needs replacement) as I did not go to a Hyundai Dealer. Yet I went to the closest place when I initially had the issue and I have had bad experiences with the Hyundai Dealer by my home. I had no idea the issue was related to the powertrain warranty or that Hyundai engines had these issues or I would have taken it to a different Hyundai Dealer before the 100,000 mile warranty was up. I know that is not the focus here but rather the safety issue however I just wanted to include that information for what it is worth. Currently, I travel with the risk of my engine stalling if it runs out of oil with no warning due to the warning light never coming on to date. The only recourse is to continually check the oil. This has occurred even in between oil changes. I can provide my Service receipts as well.

I am writing to report a recurring issue with my car's electric power steering system. On multiple occasions, the steering wheel has locked up unexpectedly, particularly while making turns. This presents a significant safety concern, and I believe it is crucial to address this issue promptly.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at 5 MPH and attempting to make a left turn, she became aware that the power steering was not functioning. The electronic power steering warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the electronic power steering. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating the failure, the contact related it to NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering), but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a case was opened. The failure mileage was 75,500.

While at red lights, coasting or waiting in drive-thru the car starts jerking and shaking. Will stall and fail to accelerate, sometimes coming a complete stop. Turning on and off the vehicle only works some of the time. This started in 2020 and went on for months while Hyundai kept "fixing" the car. Coils were replaced in 2020. Now again in 2023, exact same issue. On 9/29/23 car starting jerking while waiting at red light, turning car on and off worked. On 10/1/2023 car starting jerking and shaking while waiting in a drive thru, this time it did not stop no matter how many times I turned my car on and off. They are trying to tell me this is wear and tear on my part. Car is no longer drivable since you never know when this issue will happen.

On 9/13 my engine stopped as I was coming to a stop at an intersection. I put the vehicle in park and restarted the engine. This happened three more times within a 2 mile drive. The vehicle was towed to the dealership. On 10/6 I was told my vehicle was repaired. I drove it approximately 3 miles and the engine stopped as I pressed the break approaching an intersection. It then occurred twice more as I was attempting to safely pull over. On both dates, I was driving in traffic and was nearly rear ended putting my safety at risk as well as the safety of other drivers. The dealership told me there was no code and tried to have me pick up the vehicle after the first instance. I refused, insisting that the vehicle is not safe to drive. The dealership repair paperwork shows that they did duplicate the issue and did receive code p0014. Ultimately the camshaft assembly and other components were replaced. When phoning the dealership on 10/6 to report my problem, I received assistance in the form of a loaner vehicle and was told that they needed to investigate my vehicles problem “further”.

when driving (typically at a low speed) the engine will shut off with no warning.

For more than two years, at irregular intervals, the passenger air bag light on the front panel blinks and the associated chime sounds for about two minutes, then stops. This happens with no passenger in the seat. I have asked the dealer (Fitzgerald Hyundai in Rockville, MD) several times to look into this. My concern is that if the air bag alarm cannot be trusted when there is no passenger, how can it be trusted to work when it needs to? This seems to me to be an unsafe condition. The dealership stated that since the problem occurs intermittently, they cannot determine a cause, and advised me to contact Hyundai Motor America and would likely meet with a representative. I contacted the company in July, and was designated Case No. [XXX]. Over the next two months, in several email communications with "[XXX]," I was informed that I should take the car to another dealer. I noted that given the intermittent nature of the problem, there was no reason to believe another dealer would have better luck replicating and resolving the issue. That was the total of Hyundai Motor America's help. I terminated the case last month. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

My vehicle is stalling and there are sounds coming from engine. The stalling issue is happening on the highways that might cause the accident which can be life taking. Am not sure to be done get this fixed

The power steering went out as I was driving with my infant in the car. I was making a turn and it completely went out. That is very dangerous.

On 4/3/2023, our 2017 Hyundai Elantra was taken to Bob Howard Hyundai in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma to diagnose why it kept dying after putting gas in it. It was eventually serviced on 4/17/23 by determining they needed to replace the intake camshaft oil flow control valve, as well as a synthetic oil change, including filter and gasket-engine oil plug. Almost three months later, on 8/20/23, in Tulsa, the car just stopped running suddenly, with no active warning lights, and we found it had completely spewed out all its oil! My [XXX] son could have been killed had it happened on the highway! We had it towed to Danny's Auto Repair in Sand Springs, OK. They determined the oil drain plug had completely fallen out while driving, causing the total oil loss- and resulting in the car to come to a stop, and the engine to be ruined. They documented the undercarriage of the vehicle to show there was no other damage, and after contacting our extended warranty plan we had purchased, we were told this was not covered under the warranty. Danny's then contacted Bob Howard Hyundai in OKC, explained the issue, and Bob Howard's requested the vehicle be towed to them as they would need to see for themselves. We had it towed 108 miles back to OKC. After inspecting the vehicle, Bob Howard's contacted Danny's on 9/5/23 to inform them/us, they are NOT responsible for the engine. We sent certified letters to both Bob Howard and to Hyundai Consumer Affairs, and they opened case #[XXXXXXX]. They said Bob Howard would have to address the issue & they would follow up with them. They did, and Bob Howard again said not responsible. We reported to Better Business Bureau, and have left a message for an attorney to review the circumstances. Then today researched several Hyundai lawsuits about this same issue hundreds of other customers have had. Nothing has been done. Hyundai won't take responsibility. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

For the people that have the doors that will not lock or unlock there has been a resolution for that and I am surprised that it isn’t on this site. It’s called “ DOOR LATCH REPLACEMENT(WARRANTY EXTENSION TXXL” number 21-BD-006H you can go to any Hyundai dealership and they will replace it free of charge. I had to do my own research since nobody would help me, including this website to find out the information. This is very disappointing that there was no recall or any information to help anybody regarding this situation. Especially since it’s a huge safety issue. Not to mention when it rains my car leaks which could be the cause. I do not know, but I will never buy another Hyundai ever again. The lack of support from anybody is null and void and you are on your own to find the information. So nobody has to do the work I uploaded the file for you.

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra has problems with the ignition coil packs, sensors and engine. The car stalls at lights. It idles very rough and shakes when driving. Acts as if it will stall on the highway and extremely slow acceleration. Dealer told me there was metal parts in my oil, oil was thick sludge and that I never changed the oil. False and I have the oil change receipts to prove my oil changes. I have taken the car to the dealer numerous times for the stalling and no acceleration problems. Dealer can never get the codes or replicate the issues.

Steering locked up on the highway and car became uncontrollable.

I was downhill turning right. My vehicle turned off. I started it and it turned off again. Happened again. Turned it back on and was able to continue to drive. Luckily for me there was no other vehicles on the road but could have caused an accident if car was behind me. I am planning on making appointment to take to dealer. No warning signs, engine light flashed on when car turned off but that's it.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving approximately 70 MPH, there was an abnormal rattling sound coming from the engine compartment. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the connecting rod bearing needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 105,405.

Steering wheel sometimes makes grinding sounds when steering at low speed (25-35moh). On Sept 17, 2023 at approximately 5pm I was turning into my driveway going approximately 5mph when the electronic power steering light illuminated and I lost steering capability. When I turned off car then turned it back on light was off and steering power returned. After researching issue I discovered this is somewhat of a common problem.

My door handle requiring repeated attempts to open the door, same as in the TSB Number: 21-BD-006H (NHTSA Number: 10196574). It is possible that hyundai does not includes a lot of vehicles with similar problems.

The car door will not open from inside or outside. This is the 3rd door that this has happened too

The engine stalled while stopped at a stop sign. And while driving up a mountain steep grade road to a friends house, the car struggled to go up the hill as if it lost gas flow to the engine.

My passenger rear door in my 2017 Elantra won’t open from the inside or out. Nothing is making it open. I looked it up and it’s very very common in this year of Elantras . I believe it should be a recall because it’s a safety issue. My baby is on that side of my vehicle . Seeming it’s a problem with a lot of Elantras right now how can we get this issue resolved? It’s going to cost me $300 just for Hyundai to take the door off and see why it’s doing this .

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while pulling out of the driveway and shifting into drive (D), the vehicle started lunging and jerking. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle responded as needed as she continued driving. The contact stated that the failure recurred several times while driving. The vehicle was taken to AutoZone, where it was determined that the failure was related to the catalytic converter. The vehicle was not repaired. Additionally, the contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle lost motive power. The contact was unable to pull to the side of the road. The contact beeped the horn to avoid being rear-ended. The contact was able to restart the vehicle and continued driving. The contact also stated that the vehicle failed to respond while driving from a complete stop at the traffic light. The dealer and the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 145,000.

The rear driver side door will not open from either the outside, nor the inside. This is a major safety concern for any passengers that ride in the backseat, especially children. I just bought this vehicle on 08/12/2023 and was unaware of the issue until after purchasing the vehicle upon leaving the dealership. The dealership has been made aware, and quoted that they'd "take a look at it" when I bring the vehicle in to be serviced for another predetermined purpose. But, that hasn't been scheduled as of yet. I researched this and can't find if Hyundai has an active recall for this on the 2017 Elantra, but many others have made complaints that this has happened to them. This is very scary to think that it could happen to the other door as well and trap my child, or any passenger, in an emergency!

My 2017 Elantra experienced complete power steering loss which nearly caused a serious accident. I was traveling approximately 25 MPH as I went around a bend, and lost all power steering. I was able to get my car home with no power steering. When I restarted the ignition and turned the steering wheel there was partial power steering, but wheel made a clunking noise as I turned the wheel. I researched online and discovered there was a partial recall of the 2017 Elantra's for faulty power steering connectors. As the original owner I never received a recall notice. I double checked with dealership and they advised no outstanding recalls. The steering continues to stick and loses power. Thank you very much, [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

Excessive Oil consumption. My engine has stalled multiple times WHILE DRIVING. The stall typically happens while turning in the middle of an intersection. I've had several near-misses and I'm terrified of being hit. I continue to have to fill my oil in-between oil changes. This problem continues to get worse.

When coming to a stop, turn or sometimes when driving throttle goes to zero, oil, engine, and battery light come on and gas peddle no longer works (car no longer accelerates) . Have to turn car all the way off and restart it and it runs fine (all lights turn off and car accelerates) until coming to a stop again (the same exact thing happens). Went to trade it in as soon as person test drove it he almost crashed because the engine stalled again. This has been happening for months but progressively worsened (happens very often now almost causing crashes)

When making a turn or just steering, the steering wheel, the wheel locks up and has difficulty turning or steering. A steering wheel with an exclamation mark shows on my dash, and I have to pull over and turn off the car in order for the car to resume driving normally. Also, the trunk automatic opening does not work. The trunk is supposed to open when you approach it with your key, and it doesn’t work. That feature stopped working one year after I got the car.

CAR WAS STOLEN BY BREAKING THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE BACK WINDOW AND THEN STARTED THE CAR WITH A USB CABLE. I HAVE VIDEO SHOWING HOW THEY STARTED THE CAR AFTER IT WAS RECOVERED. I CONTACTED THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP AND COMPANY WHERE I PURCHASE THE CAR FROM, ALL I KEPT GETTING IS THAT THE CAR IS OK AND THE DEALERSHIP SENT ME AWAY BACK IN APRIL OF 2023, EVEN WHEN I HAVE A RECALL MAILED NOTIFICATION. I was told also that on this website there is no recall when they enter my VIN, but yet the car was stolen because of the poor immobilizer in these cars. Priceless and valuable items was stolen from my car belonging to my deceased mother(she passed in 2018), this is so upsetting.

Doors sometimes fail to open when car is electronically unlocked after being previously locked. This is apparently a well-known problem with Hyundai vehicles. From what I've read, the cable assembly responsible for locking and unlocking the doors is not well made and can either stretch or jump a cog, keeping the door from unlocking. In my case, I believe the cable must've stretched. The car is available for inspection. I believe this failure is dangerous for several reasons. First, suddenly and unexpectedly not being able to enter your vehicle can happen at times when it is unsafe to remain outside--especially when a child might be locked inside, as might happen in a roadside emergency. Second, it encourages people not to lock their vehicles especially if they know there's a good chance they won't be able to get back inside once they've locked their car. Finally, it can cost over $1000 per door to have the problem fixed--if you can find a mechanic willing to do it.

While driving the vehicle it will start shaking. This has happened at different times and speeds so it I am unsure what the cause is. The check engine light will also come on. The shaking is very concerning and scary. The first time it happened I immediately pulled over and turned the car off. When I turned the car back on the problem was gone. When it happened again at a later date, I made an appointment to see a mechanic. The Hyundai dealership mechanic was not able to find the problem since the error code was not there when the card had been turned off and turned back on. They could not trigger the issue either. Even though they could not find the exact problem with the car they charged me over $700 to 'fix' what they *thought* was causing the problem. They said if the problem occurred again to return the car. The problem did occur again and this time I took a video of the check engine light. The check engine light and shaking stopped while driving and not me turning the car off this most recent time. I made an appointment to go back to the Hyundai dealership mechanic and they asked me "are you sure it's the check engine light that comes on." This was very frustrating, and I felt that they were gaslighting me as a female at their dealership since they could not find an issue with the car. I showed the video to the mechanic and he said, "oh yes that is the check engine light." Once again they could not figure out the issue or trigger the shaking. They said if it happens again to drive straight to the Hyundai dealership and sent me on my way.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the Electronic Power Steering Assist would randomly fail and the steering wheel would become difficult to turn in either direction. After restarting the vehicle, the failure was corrected. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic who diagnosed that the Electronic Power Steering system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was notified and informed that the VIN was not included in the NHTSA Campaign Number: 17V213000 (Steering). The contact indicated that the vehicle had experienced that same failure listed in the recall. The local dealer was not contacted. The VIN was not available. The failure mileage was 60,000.

The steering wheel locked up on my daughter making her go straight while the road turned. She ended up in the grass on the right side of the road and ended up crashing into the guardrail from behind. The stability control light was on the entire time.

I was driving on the highway, operating vehicle at posted speed limit, traveling about 70mph when vehicle experienced complete power loss for a short duration of time. All electrical off, loss of braking, loss of power steering. Power subsequently returned and vehicle resumed normal operation. This is not the first time this has occurred, but this episode has me concerned since I was driving on the highway this time. I understand that Hyundai has other vehicles experiencing engine problems, not sure if my vehicle is may be experiencing a similar engine part failure.

Rear passenger door will not open inside or out. Driver door takes multiple times to open from the outside.very concerned that in an accident someone will not be able to exit.

The door opening mechanism in both the drivers door and the right rear passenger door continually does not allow the door to open resulting in the driver and passenger becoming trapped in the vehicle, and often does not allow opening of the door to enter the vehicle. I and my passengers have been trapped within the vehicke several times where we unsuccessfully tried to use the cars unlock button, the key fob, the key, and even the manual lock levers in conjunction with either the inside or outside door levers. It is dangerous to be trapped inside a vehicle and so i believe this issue should be corrected by a manufacturers recall

The engine is making weird noises and the vehicle is stalling and is not accelerating. If am trying to accelerate the crank shaft noise is coming from the engine. Koi

When slowing down to turn or stop the vehicle would stutter and stall. It would not give an active code when checked, only historical for cam position sensor error. Found that it was low on oil but no signs of a leak. After an oil change and replacing the sensor the stalling seemed to improve, but it is still losing oil quickly. Purchased the car a few months ago with about 70k miles on it. After reviewing the car it seems to be a common problem, and nothing is being done to address it. Hyundai will not warranty the car since we are not the original owners, despite being within their warranty period.

Rear passenger doors will not open from inside or outside. Only will open occasionally after repeatedly pulling aggressively. Or getting into back seat to push on the cable within door handle. It is a safety hazard to get my kids out of the back seat.

While driving the vehicle when making left hand turns vehicle occasionally shuts off with no warning.

Vehicle is not accelerating, have to push the pedal hard and while doing it the engine started making sounds and the vehicle stopped. There are weird sounds coming from the engine that’s making the vehicle to not turn on.

Vehicles with the same year and model have been recalled due to thermostats issue. I am experiencing an issue exactly like other that have had recall have experienced. My engine overheated causing my vehicle to shut down. Smoke was coming from engine oil tank. I called Hyundai and they are advising me that my particular model has not been recalled although I'm experiencing the exact issue of what was recalled for other vehicles with the same year and model.

Exterior and interior door handles failed to open vehicle door. Handle may work upon repeated engagement, but this does not always work. This is happening on both rear and front doors, both driver and passenger side. This endangers people's safety both inside and out. Should a person need to quickly exit a scenario (a woman being chased or threatened) the exterior door handle failing puts her at risk of unnecessary danger. Should this car be involved in an accident and people inside the car injured the failure of the door handle to open would prohibit help and aid to the people from people outside. Should the passengers or driver be incapacitated they could be trapped inside the vehicle, even with people there to assist them. The interior handles not opening could potentially cause severe injury or death to drivers or passengers. If doors cannot open from the inside than people inside the car cannot exit the car in the case of a crash or other hazardous situation. If no one is there to provide aid passengers inside the car may be trapped. No notice was given of the issue before it appeared. It began several months ago. My vehicle has not been inspected by a manufacturer or anyone else yet. My car has not yet had this issued confirmed by a dealer, but this is a well documented issue on youtube. Hyundai is also aware of the issue as they have issued a technical service bulletin for door latch replacement for "some" 2017 Hyundai Elantra models.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving approximately 30 MPH, the vehicle stalled in the middle of the road. The contact stated that the instrument panel went black, and the power steering and power brakes became inoperable. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred following the engine replacement and the failure had become a recurring failure. The contact took the vehicle back to the same dealer who could not determine the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 54,000.

Car would just stall out while driving! Would have to put car in park and then try to turn back on. Also burning through oil very fast. Had to replace the timing belt just for 20K miles later having the same issue!

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated upon coming to a complete stop, the vehicle accelerated unintendedly over a concrete bar and drove up a hill. The contact depressed the brake pedal but to no avail. The contact steered the vehicle to the right direction to avoid entering a pool. She then crashed into multiple objects including trees, concrete parking bars, and multiple vehicles before coming to a stop. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact was taken to the hospital by ambulance and was treated for injuries to her neck and back. A police report was filed. Due to the failure, the vehicle was towed to an independent tow yard where it was destroyed. Parking barriers and trees were damaged as a result of the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000.

Vehicle would do a complete stop without warning while driving. No, engine light isn’t reflected on dashboard of 2017 Hyundai Elantra, went into a complete stop on hwy. Had vehicle checked everything looked good, Hidden problems couldn’t be resolved dealing with matter that could have been deadly if traffic were to occur.

My car was serviced according to the recall sent by Hyundai to install anti-theft security software to my vehicle. My car was locked, broken into, and stolen with the installed security 3 months later. The attached summary outlines the details of the car as it was purchased, recalled, stolen, and recovered, with pictures of the damage included. The Hyundai recall software was not installed correctly or is not effective at preventing vehicle theft for automobiles without immobilizers.

The steering wheel will not unlock

I attempted to open my rear passenger driver side door and it wouldn't open from the outside, then tried inside door handle and still would not open. Tried the door lock and key fob. Still would not open. Searched on Google and many other people have the same issue with the same car where the rear driver side door will not open. This is a safety hazard as you are unable to escape from the vehicle in an accident from that door.

Since buying my vehicle new, it has had three ignition coils fail at different times. The car begins to shudder, rough idle, not accelerate and all of a sudden just will not respond to giving it gas. This happens at any speed therefore it is a danger especially entering or exiting highways or switching lanes. It has been unpredictable. The check engine light does come on some of the time as this problem is occurring, not before. The dealer replaced the first two coils (51, 576 miles and 56, 446 miles) under the warranty. The third coil replaced (78, 391 miles), they would not cover under warranty, nor would they replace the 4th coil as a precaution.

The vehicle's engine light has been coming on for the past 3 years(2020-2023). I had multiple engine servicing checks done at the Hyundai dealership, but the dealership continued to say that there was nothing wrong with the car until this year 2023. Starting 2023 when I would drive, the engine oil light started flashing on and off and the car kept cutting off at stops AND while driving, which can cause accidents leading to death. In 2023 I started noticing that the oil kept being low, but it did not have an oil leak, it was like the oil was vanishing. Now the same Hyundia dealership claims that reason the oil light flashes on is because engine oil is going into the engine which can cause a fire to the car resulting in death. There are also a multiple lawsuits about Hyundai engines catching on fire and oil going into the engine but the dealership is claiming that it's not my particular model which I do not believe! At this point I am fearful to drive the car because it will definitely stop while in drive and stop in traffic and I'm afraid of having an accident and someone dying in the car or the car Catching Fire in my driveway or garage. PLEASE HELP these companies should not get away with this knowing MANY of there models have oil/Engine issues!!

Car shaking when accelerating. Check engine light. Misfire code. Earliest appointment with dealership is Thursday June 1st. At 2 pm on Saturday May 27th check engine light went off.

My car is rapidly losing oil at an alarming rate and I believe the 2017 Elantras should be a part of the Oil consumption recall. For at least over the past year at 111,094 miles, my car needs to have the oil refilled at every 3 week period averaging only 1,000 miles. NO CHECK OIL LIGHT ever comes on, and I am only aware of the fact due to diligently checking my car's oil. Countless mechanics have told me of this issue, that it's not normal to consume this much oil. On other forums hundreds of Hyundai users have stepped forward that they are having the same problem. It was cost me countless repairs and when I did go to Hyundai for arguably the same problem (low oil) under warranty, I was never given a new well functioning engine. I also have reason to believe that Hyundai is WELL AWARE of this issue as the 2017 manual states that owners are expected to check oil every 350 miles which is excessive. There needs to be consequences for this indecent operation of business and these customers need to be compensated.

Have had the vehicle throw a code for a misfire 4 times in the 30,000 miles I have driven it. The times I have taken it to Hyundai dealerships in Northglenn and Boulder, Colorado they tried an update and just swap ignition coils to different cylinders. Example misfire is cylinder 3. They swap number 3 and 4 ignition coils to see if they can recreate the problem I the new cylinder. There is already a TCS 20-FL-001h. I recommend a full recall of these defective ignition coils be put out as the problems are still occurring. The problem is reoccurring and the time it takes to get into the shop is 3 weeks out at this time. By the time I get it in the code usually resolves and I have to wait until I get violent shakes and poor acceleration to indicate it is back. Had an accident in January if 2023 and it seemed the brakes were t working as they should. Twice after that the brakes felt as if they weren’t stopping as well as they should. I took the vehicle in and had the rear drum brakes adjusted and that seemed to fix the problem.

Steering wheel locks unsafe to drive. I have complained to the Towne Hyundai in Denville was told it was the left strut that was causing problem. I paid out of pocket and problem is still there. I was advised by two mechanics my car has a recall but Hyundai in Denville aand Paramus NJ will not accept responsibility. I'm afraid to drive my car as the steering wheel locked in the past. The light for electric power steering warning light came on. Thank you.

I'm having constant issues with my front doors. Last year There was a door latch recall issued for the front drivers side door. I took my car to the dealership to get it handled however my FT DS door was making a clicking sound. It was fixed but since gone back to the dealership twice and now possibly a third time due to FT PGR Door making the same noise.. I keep getting locked out of my car or the doors wont close right. All doors make a clicking sound when opened. Which is one of the reasons I have taken car twice. The main concern is me not being able to get in the car without having to click on the key fob and doorlatch getting stuck.

Ignition Coil Failure on 2017 Hyundai Elantra with just over 29,000 miles. Engine misfiring, jerking, idling roughly, and hesitating while accelerating, along with the Check Engine Light turning on. On-board diagnostic tool generated a P0-301 Diagnostic Trouble Code - indicating that cylinder number 1 experiencing misfires. Took my car to dealer for repair. Ignition coil and software updated pursuant to Hyundai TSB # 20-FL-001H. Cost $321.46. Hyundai would not pay for all/part of the repair because car is beyond the 5 year/60,000 mile warranty, despite this being a safety issue they acknowledged by issuing the TSB to address the replacement of the defective ignition coils. Hyundai previously issued safety recall on 2106 Sonata models related to a similar defective ignition coil issue. See Hyundai TSB # 16-01-003-1. Ignition coils are expected to last at least 100,000 miles. The premature failure of this part, as evidenced by the 2016 recall, and the 2020 TSB, poses an unreasonable safety risk to the public. Imagine the safety issues while traveling on a roadway with your car misfiring, jerking, or lacking power when accelerating, or stalling.

I can’t pinpoint the issue as it cannot be checked due to check engine light not staying on. I have narrowed it mostly down to being the Ingnition coil packs as I have a cylinder 3 misfire listed. My car started having this issue in 2021. I would eat my lunch in my car and noticed a drop in rpm’s while idle along with vibration of the vehicle. It has progressed to vibrating while driving on the road and not being able to accelerate in a timely manner. I know 2 other people that have the same year of car and they are experiencing these same issues. You can find, on the internet, countless complaints related to the ignition coils failing in these vehicles. A recall needs to be created for the safety of the drivers and passengers in these vehicles. It is irresponsible for a company to use faulty components and proves that the safety of their consumers is not in their best interest. I will continue to report the issue until something is done about it.

I received a mailer and text with my VIN stating I had the 993 recall for my anti-theft software in March. I made an appointment beginning of April for May1st for the recall, after going to the dealership I was informed the recall did not exist and the mailer was wrong. After calling hyundai service I was informed that an appointment could be made to fix it and then after another call to Hyundai I was informed that the recall did not apply to my car, also during this call the lady told me that I can just buy a wheel lock to fix the issue.

Door latch on back two doors failed and will not open at all. First door failed at 60,000 miles while getting additional maintenance at Hyundai dealership and door was discovered broken upon pickup. Dealership diagnosed problem but refused to fix it. The second door latch failure occurred at 67,000 miles. It happened while out on family trip. Having both rear doors unable to open was a major safety hazard for our children seated in back who would be unable to be easily retrieved if accident were to occur. No warning lights or any other signs of warning occurred. Doors just would not open upon arrival at destination. Hyundai dealership confirmed latch failure is cause. After researching online we discovered this is a common problem with this make and model car. Hyundai stated it will take several weeks and cost $500 per door when quoted. To fix will be a several week wait and when quoted. We are worried about using the car with kids in the backseat and also worried the other two door latches will fail closed. Since this is a known problem for this model and a major safety concern it should be a recall.

Receiving intermittent warnings to check Automatic Emergency Braking System, Lane Departure Warning System, and Automatic High Beam Light System. All three warnings occur together and happen intermittently while driving. Problem may or not begin when first start driving. The problem will also seem to rectify itself after a period of time then begin to cycle again several minutes or hours later. Will occur at any speed or while idling.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra equipped with Hankook Tires, Tire Line: Kinergy GT H43, Tire Size: 225/45/R17, DOT Number: (Unavailable). The contact stated that while making a left turn, she heard a loud popping sound. The tire pressure warning light was intermittently illuminated. The contact then stated that she maneuvered the vehicle to a service station. The contact then stated that upon inspecting the vehicle, she noticed that the front passenger’s side tire tread had detached. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the tire needed to be replaced; however, the tire was replaced with the temporary spare tire until the tire became available. The vehicle was repaired however, the contact then stated that the same front passenger’s tire had recently been replaced in less than a year. In addition, the contact stated that on numerous occasions while attempting to unlock the doors using the key fob, the doors intermittently failed to operate as designed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure could not be duplicated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the failure was not covered under the warranty. No further assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 34,007.

Driver side strut popped through housing, and penetrated front hood. Confirmed by Hyundai dealer on 10 April 2023, and also confirmed by another mechanic - which will make the repair, on 10 April 2023. No warning lamps. Alerted by rattling/rubbing/popping noise that occurred soon after taking the car to a Hyundai dealer in Springfield, VA to resolve a safety recall anti-theft matter. Mileage is estimated between 60K and 66K (car is being fixed now). Not only will strut and related items require repair, but the front hood also now requires repair.

vehicle stolen.

I bought my 17 Hyundai Elantra back in august 22 and noticed sometime after buying it that it smelled like coolant burning when it ran. So I kept my eye out to see if there where any leaks no leaks. Sometime this year I took the car to central Hyundai to get it looked at cause of the burning coolant smell and because after it had been running if I opened the engine oil area on the top of the engine smoke would come out and the oil was pitch black no coolant was mixing with the oil though. The service area there told me that the car was fine and that it was just burning oil because it was an old car. I went out of state for a few days after that so I got a rental instead of taking my car thankfully cause I drove the car for 2 days when I got back and the engine went completely. I was driving down the road and I spun a bearing then blew a piston through the engine block oil leaked all under the car. I called the dealership that looked at it to complain and they completely switched up what happened the day I got my car looked at and said that hd told me it would be best for him to keep the car to look at longer which is not true. I called Hyundai manufacture customer support and they didn’t care because of the mileage I have 116000 about and bought the car with about 98000

Was driving one night and out of nowhere the car started to change gears hard no warning lights came on then the car just cut off so started it back it cut off and I started it back again drove home fine next time I went to get in it the check engine light came on now the car won't even start and I have taken it to 2 shops and they said that they are having a hard time pin pointing what it could be but told me it sounded like the engine recall

I got this used car from Hyundai Courtesy in late 2020. My issue with this used car is that there is no TPMS reset button to get the tires back to have the same tire pressure. Even with battery mode reset done, the tires are always out of sync after a few days or hours. I do go to the dealership to get the tpms fixed but after a few days, it is back to out of sync. I am writing to the safety board to inform them and hopefully, Hyundai corporate can look into this electrical issue.

Originally I had gottem my oil changed at the Hyundai dealership 2 months before . The car was turning off on me while driving making slow turns or slowing down to 5mph or less. Then my car broke down on me and wouldnt turn on. Mechanic was saying there was no oil in and it created a sludge in the engine basically ruining the car. My check oil light never came on, and the oil was just recently changed so this shouldve been apart of the recall where similar issues happened.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 15 MPH and making a left turn, the vehicle failed to accelerate when depressing the accelerator pedal and began to roll backward. The low oil pressure warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where the engine oil was replaced. The independent mechanic diagnosed that an unknown valve needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The local dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 83,600.

•In early October 2022 when the car owner purchased the Hyundai 2017 Elantra it had 77,717 miles on it. The inspection of the car by the dealership’s service department prior to purchase did not indicate any concerns with the engine. No mention was made of the need for an extended warranty. •In February 2023, four months after purchase, the car was taken to a Hyundai Service Department of the same company for an 85,000-mile servicing at 84,107. Again, no concerns with the engine of the car were noted. •Fifteen days later the car’s engine died. The same Hyundai Service Department indicated that there was so much carbon buildup that the intake valves and pistons in cylinder 3 came into contact causing metal shavings to blow the engine. They said they had filed a PA with Hyundai Customer Service USA and had been told because the owner is a second owner Hyundai would not pay for the replacement of the engine under the 100,000 K warranty. A new engine had to be installed at the estimated cost of $6790. The Hyundai Service Department indicated this was a reduction in the cost of both the new engine and labor.

In my 2017 white Elantra, the paint in the hood and top started peeling off. I have seen multiple elantras especially white color having this issue. It seems like a manufacturing defect and Hyundai should address this issue through a recall.

The engine failed catastrophically. Yes, available for inspection. Driving down the highway, and engine seized up in traffic. It has been confirmed by an independent service center. No, the car has not had an inspection done by the manufacturer as of yet. No warning.

It all started in 2020. I took my car to Don Wood Hyundai Athens OH for a ticking noise at 60K miles rite after the same dealership performed an oil change. After several weeks of no answers about my car I was told it needed an engine, no one ever gave me a reason as to why. I was also told I would not have any type of extended warranty. 2023 I was driving the car on the highway when it all of a sudden loss power and sputtered and almost stalled. I took the car to Don Wood Hyundai for service when I asked what was wrong with my car I was told it needed a software update and the issue was resolved. While the car was being serviced I found a Hyundai NHSTA service memo about issues with the ignition coils. When I picked up the car I specifically asked if the coils had been checked and if they are the correct ones. No one in this Hyundai Dealer ship could tell me, they completely failed to do a visual inspection. So I take my car back and decide to investigate. I contacted Hyundai about the issue they were no help. I then decided might as well just replace the coils and spark plugs myself since I am at 87K miles. I found a badly corroded spark plug and damaged coil on the car. Hyundai claims their coils and plugs are good for up to 80 - 100K miles. According to the dealership when the engine was replaced all of these components would have been replaced also. So my "new" engine and components have started to fail at 20K miles. Had I not done the service myself the car for sure would have died on the road and created a dangerous situation. I believe Hyundai has a lot of issues with their newer cars that need to be resolved and they are not doing quality work to ensure documented issues are not resolved.

2017 Hyundai Elantra limited. Vehicle makes grinding noise when steering wheel is turned in either direction. Dealer said it needs new steering column. I am surprised that a vehicle driven 36000, miles would have a warn steering column. It never been a in a collision or driven roughly. I have never had a steering column go bad in a car.

I am filing a complaint regarding my white 2017 Elantra because Hyundia refuses to address the peeling paint issue on the hood. The paint is literally falling off. I tried to have it fixed under the original warranty - Plano Hyundia Huffines said it was not covered - This was not true, and it could have been fixed. I know this because I received an extended warranty notice (TXXW) specifically addressing the paint issue. I took the car to the dealer, and they again stated it's not covered - too much time had passed....I just received the notice 2 weeks prior to the appointment on 2/25/23 at 10:30 am CST. I am looking to simply have my hood painted / repaired and i cannot get anyone to be accountable to the poor quality of this car's paint.

Door exterior handle will not open after the car is locked and then unlocked. It takes multiple pulls after unlocking door and door will not open until 4-5 pulls are taken to get door open.

So my car has big patches of bare metal were the paint has peeled completely up bubbled up. Also my engine just started a knocking noise with no warning symbols or anything now I'm going to have to replace the motor. My car doesn't specifically have any recalls but I beg to differ that damn near every one of these cars that they have made has the same problems regardless of the vin

On December 11, I was driving on I-4 and I was going approximately 75 miles per hour and it was my first trip going more than 15 miles outside on my home. My oil light flickered and turned on and as soon as I moved over to the left lane to the right, my car stalled out and I had to pull over to the shoulder. Once brought to Courtesy Hyundai of Tampa, they told me my oil plug was not installed.

The car keeps shaking when idle and has stalled out a few times. I was told it's oil consumption related and to just get oil changes more often. I have had the car stall out on the interstate ramp, on a mountain road, etc. I see other complaints have been written and have not been addressed.

This is the second time my check engine light has come on while driving and car vibrating and shaking in the middle of heavy traffic and also idling at stop lights/signs. Why does this keep happening? The codes were registered P0301/P0302. How dangerous is this especially with small children in the car. Totally unsafe.... The car was first towed to the dealership last year at the same time for the same reason. The first coil pack was replaced and off they sent me. Exactly one year later there goes number 2 coil pack. Not under warranty. How long do I have to hold my breath driving before 3 and 4 go out? Especially if I am out of state and driving 70 mph on the highway.

I’ve been having problems with my timing chain and power train for over a year. Got the timing chain fixed and now all i’m seeing is new problems with bad ignition coils and spark plugs and transmission problems. I’ve only had this car for 4 years and keep the maintenance up to date.

My car was making a clicking noise and I got it towed to the dealership where I brought it from and I was told by the dealership that my bearings on my engine failed the bearing test and I would need to purchase a new engine. I received regular maintenance on this vehicle to ensure that it last a very long time as I’ve only had it for 6 years and needing a new motor already. I’ve also had to change the hose twice and I have several paint chips.

Right out of warranty sudden engine heat fluctuations, hot air stopped blowing and cold air is inconsistent. I changed relays and fuses to be safe . Very unhappy about dangerous unreliable products the engine warranty should be extended to this vehicle I have a heart condition. It seems they are trying to avoid addressing major engine reliability issues

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? "Paint flaking/chipping" How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? "No safety concern or issue" Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? "Not currently" Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? "Insurance representatives" Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? "No. Failure was noticed after traveling through foggy weather after reaching destination"

Roadside assistance locke d keys inside car

The vehicle has stalled at low speeds multiple times. No check engine light comes on, so my mechanic can’t diagnose anything. He suspects it’s the issue that many other model years have been recalled for, but the 2017 Elantras are not included in the recall. Most recently the car stalled as I came to a stop at a red light.

For over a year, the front driver's side door handle has not worked properly. I would have to yank the door repeatedly, even while unlocked, to open it. Eventually this led to the plastic fracturing, and then breaking off completely when an auto tech tried to open it. Now, despite absolutely nothing having damaged them in the meantime, the front passenger side door handle has to be pulled on as many as 20+ times to open from the outside, and the back driver's side is not opening from the outside at all. The only functioning door is the passenger's side rear door. I have read multiple reports of other drivers whose doors are not opening from the outside OR the inside. This could not only make it so I am entirely unable to drive the car due to a complete inability to get inside (unless maybe I'm able to crawl through the trunk?), but also a serious safety hazard endangering anyone who might be stuck inside the car. Even if I replace the actuators I can't know that it won't just happen again. Along with that, the car has had a consistent problem with overheating despite several attempts by auto techs to fix the problem. Even at the "qualified" Hyundai dealership, the techs could never figure out the problem. I paid to have an independent mechanic replace the thermostat, in the hopes that it would repair the problem. It seemed to work until 2 weeks ago when I stopped the car, and after roughly 2 minutes idling it was overheating and I had to turn around. The approximate date I'm adding is just the date the auto tech ripped off the door handle, because these have been persistent and ongoing issues.

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra that I got in 2020, has been shaking at Idle for 3 years now off and on. I even got it serviced at Hyundai in Tyler Tx under warranty. I was told it’s the coil packs. I was driving to work yesterday and the Engine light was flashing at me, and my car was shaking and knocking extremely bad. I had to turn around and miss work due to this issue. Although, when I go to nearest dealership there are no OBD 2 codes that populate, or ANY codes for that matter, but I’m still seeing the engine light flashing, and I’m still experiencing daily shaking and knocking of my car at low speeds, and even on the highway. I’m scared to drive it since nobody can find codes as to why this is happening.

The cars breaks are difficult to stop, it does not slow down. The steering wheel is very stiff to turn. And my car was stolen due to Hyundai not equiping it with an immobilizer. It was recovered smashed in the front, no airbags were deploited. I have photos for proof.

Had bought the vehicle at 72k miles, and drove fine for a few months before the engine started to sound like it was roaring (like the exhaust had came undone), shortly after vehicle started stalling and dieting turning left (have video evidence of this in parking lot) did not take vehicle in to be serviced as it seemed a lot of the time to be a one off issue but now the vehicle has lost a lot of low speed acceleration, and had begun knocking at 80k miles where it was looked at by an independent mechanic which stated that the engine was severely low on oil. Have been driving since as it is the only way for me to get back and forth to work and the problems have been getting worse to the point the vehicle will refuse to start, or just act like it’s lost a gear and is stuck in neutral

driver side rear door will not open and the front passenger door takes a couple lifts if the exterior handle to get the door to open.

Paint peeling on hood

The passenger side door will not open from the outside also the passenger airbag light comes on and off by itself also the steering wheel is jerky and movement

Check engine lights keep coming on for ignition coils and engine keeps stalling out. This seems to be a common problem and surprise theres no recall. The engine stalling is very dangerous because of the potential to cause a traffic accident. The problem originally started in August and has continue to happen up to date. I have had close calls for a traffic accidents which is very scary. The mechanic said that the issue was recalled but online says something different. I just want this issue fixed and not just patched.

Issues with the front, passenger, and back passenger door randomly stop opening. From the inside and outside. Heard many complains about others with this same vehicle. Safety hazard due to not being able to open the door to get out incase of emergency, or even in if need be.

White paint peeling from front quarter panel, hood and roof

This is the second time I'm requesting to have someone look into this matter. Hyundai had a class action lawsuit regarding engine recalls of many of their different types of vehicles and the elantra was not one of them. Well, my 2017 elsntra is sitting in the shop with the exact diagnosed problem with the car stalling, engine knocking and a rod causing the engine to need replacement with no warning lights appearing on my dashboard. I understand that I am out of the warranty period but this is obviously hyundai who has not properly set the warning lights to illuminate and my car was in the day before for a emissions test in which it passed with no problem. I have looked at several complaints about the 2017 elantra engines are needing to be replaced but consumers are mad because we weren't put into this recall. I think this needs to be looked into and someone should be looking to see why this car was not part of the recall as there is so many complaints about the 2017 elantra.

I was driving on the highway in busy NYC doing 50mph in the middle lane and my car shut off. My dashboard Did Not display any warning signals (check engine, check oil, anything) prior to this incident at all. My safety and others were put at risk. This is a known issue with Hyundai vehicles. I researched their were prior recalls for engine issues however elantras were not included in the recall. That needs to change. My car has an appointment for service however something needs to be done NOW about this issue. Things could’ve definitely went different. The maintenance on my vehicle is up to date. My vehicle is serviced at Hyundais service center. I’m extremely frustrated no warning lamps were ever displayed across my screen.

Rear driver door won’t open inside or out. Unable to get to the child lock

The problem has been persistent since 70,000 miles. The drivers side passenger door is unable to be opened from the inside and outside, most of the time. The car is available for inspection. Malfunctioning doors is absolutely a safety issue. If the car is involved in an accident the fastest way to get people out is by unlocking the doors and opening them. That cannot be done here thus it requires first responders to used spreaders and cutters to open a door that should be functional. The car is going to the dealership in a few days.

Apparently, hyundai recalled several of their different types of cars for engine knocking and didn't include the 2017 elantra. My car is now sitting at a shop with the exact symptoms that caused the recall. As I was making a left turn, I slowed down and the car stalled and I can hear knocking coming from car at that time. The next morning I heard knocking when I started it and took it right to shop for a diagnostic. There was never any warning lights illuminated while driving my car to indicate any problems, I just heard knocking. You can verify with the mechanic exactly what I said when I took it in and yes its out of warranty but this is do to their error. I have read so many of the same complaints now listed that this is happening to so many 2017 elantras, and it should be investigated further. Under the national highway patrol heading, I found several of the same complaints and I have sent an email to hyundai informing them of the samething I have mentioned to you. I know this was the result of class action lawsuit and I am going to notify the law group that handled the case next to see what needs to be addressed because if this is happening to all the years and makes and models from hyundai, then all our cars should be recalled because the complaints are there on the websites with people having to pay out of pocket for their mishap and its not because of poor maintenance, it's because they manufactured the engine wrong and with no warning lights would make them totally responsible. That's what warning lights do and if they don't illuminate, how can I know where the problem is unless it breaks down and I have to pay for diagnostic. I was asked by mechanic if any warning lights were illuminated and I told him no and this was verified by him after they turned the car on.

The white paint on my 2017 Hyundai Elantra is peeling in large chunks. This may not be a safety issue, but it is a legitimate concern because the Hyundai Corporation is selling vehicles with faulty paint jobs with no recourse to the consumer. The problem is seen on numerous Hyundais driving down the road. Consumers need some sort of intervention to recoup the loss that’s incurred from rust, corrosion or thousands of dollars spent repainting a vehicle. As you can see in my photos, the paint first bubbles then it flakes off. It’s just a matter of time before more paint flies off as I drive down the highway.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 30-40 MPH, the vehicle stalled inadvertently on several occasions. The check engine warning light, the battery warning light, and several unknown warning lights were illuminated. The contact veered to the side of the road. The contact stated that upon restarting the vehicle, the engine made abnormal sounds. The contact stated that the failure recurred several times while driving below 50 MPH. An unknown dealer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 63,000.

The paint on the hood and fenders are peeling off. If it’s washed off with a hose, the paint comes off

Took the vehicle to dealership in March due to oil consumption. A combustion clean out was done and was told it was fine. About 5 weeks ago while my 17yr old son was driving the motor died in the middle of the road and began knocking. No check engine light or anything. Fighting with hyundai and dealership to get it fixed.

The power steering is totally out. Very hard to turn left or right, steering locks up and shakes hard when pressing on brakes, not safe to drive due to faulty power steering system. Took vehicle to Hyundai dealer July 2022 and was told after inspection of vehicle that i needed to pay to have the whole steering column replaced. problem still exist and work has not been done. Now i see that their is a recall for this very same issue, so why are they trying to charge for a obvious recall? warning lights are on as well as the traction light. The lights came on and used to go off and now they stay on continuously.

I hit a bus and totaled my car and none of my airbags deployed which seems suspicious.

Coil packs, spark plugs, misfires

When driving at night, sometimes the headlights and taillights will shut off leaving the car totally in the dark. This is a SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE as you can no longer see the road and other cars cannot see you. The problem appears to possibly be associated with the light switch, as you can jiggle it and get the lights back on. Also related to this problem of the lights shutting off is the fact that occasionally the lights will come on long after the car has been parked in the garage, which tends to drain the battery. After experiencing this problem, I checked the internet and found numerous other cases of Hyundai Elantra owners reporting the exact same symptoms, so it seems to be a somewhat generic problem. Hyundai’s service department has been unable to isolate the problem on my car. The problem happens randomly and is infrequent but serious when it happens. It has happened approximately 10 times over the past two years.

Engine has about 84,000 miles on it and car recently through a code reading E78 and E79. Further research on the codes other Kia and Hyundai owners reported car threw same codes before the engine blew or threw the engine rod. I will have car checked out at dealership as it’s still under warranty

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while getting a routine oil change, the mechanic noticed an abnormal oil consumption. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the contact was informed to bring the vehicle back after 1,500 miles of driving. The vehicle was taken back after 1,500 miles and it was confirmed that the vehicle was consuming an excessive amount of engine oil. After taking the vehicle to the dealer on several occasions, the contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted, and stated that the vehicle was out of warranty. The failure mileage was 1,280.

The back passenger door will not open from the outside when it's unlocked and sometimes it will randomly not open from the insides (both doors). It's like I have the child lock on the doors but it's not on

My vehicle has been experiencing this issue for a while now. At first, it showed the power steering signal but when I took it to the mechanic they said they couldn't diagnose the issue. I felt it was still safe to drive because it was a false signal. So, I kept using the car. But now the issue has become so severe to the point I can't use it because it may cause a crash. I didn't even know if I was gon make it home today. I took it to the mechanic (pep boys) today but they said they probably won't be able to fix it. Now it's parked at home. I do not know what to do. My car doesn't use power steering fluids, it's electrical. I hope I am the only one going through it because it very dangerous.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the passenger's side rear door was unable to be opened from inside or outside of the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

My hyundai was stolen. After talking with the police and conducting research, Kia and Hyundai are extremely easy to steal. Not to mention the whole tiktok challenge which is going around teaching people how to steal these vehicles.

Rear drivers side door Will not open from inside nor outside when unlocked by either key fob or door unlock control on front door panel???!!! Cannot open if there is an accident… Window opens with both windows buttons. Door will not open when unlocked… Also my passenger side front door has similar issue except, I can open door from inside but not from outside???!!! Key fob does not unlock the door???!!! But front drivers door opens all the time… Very disappointed with this vehicle.

Rear door isn't open able. While there's not inherent risk a faulty door could lead to a significant safety risk is a hazardous situation.

I am the owner of a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I bought the car for my daughter for transportation to and from school and work. As her boyfriend was driving on a 3-lane highway in heavy traffic, the car would no longer accelerate, and the steering wheel locked. The engine just stopped and seized up. The car lost all power and steering capability. He rolled the car into the left-hand turn lane. A police officer pulled up about 30 seconds later, said that he was obstructing traffic, and to move the car out of the turn lane. Her boyfriend had to push the car across the median, and 3 lanes of traffic, to get to the opposite side of the highway's shoulder, by himself. When he nearly had the car off of the road, on the opposite side of the highway, a pedestrian approached and helped him finish pushing it out of the road. This could have caused a major car accident, or someone could've been killed or injured while pushing the car. I have moved one hour away from my daughter, so I cannot provide her with a ride to and from school and work. She and I are stuck paying $301.18/mo on a car that is inoperable; it's just sitting and rotting at her apartment complex. We are also stuck paying $135.87/mo for her car insurance on a car that is inoperable. Also, this model year, 2017, has a problem with peeling paint too. The car has missing paint patches all over. Previously, at just 51,000 miles, the car had stalling problems. The car would just shut off while driving. It was repaired at Hyundai. When we got it back, it was still doing the same thing, and had to go back in again for service at Hyundai. I filed a formal complaint with Hyundai Consumer Affairs. Hyundai should have already issued recalls for these problems that many people are experiencing. I've been doing research and have found that this year and model Hyundai is very problematic. They are refusing to take responsibility by not issuing recalls on these recurrent problems that they're aware of.

I have white paint and my vehicle has 30,000 mi and the paint is peeling off of hood and now roof I have contacted Hyundai and dealership with no satisfaction

Rear driver door will NOT open whether in the unlock position manual or power, or lock position. Has not been checked by a dealership, police, or otherwise. Has been "locked" and unable to open for about 2 months. Safety issue- if in an accident, such as car is on fire, or under water, or passenger side is damaged to impare door, persons will be trapped and can cause death. There are no sensors, lights, etc. to indicate a problem. Internet research shows other individuals with this same problem related to Hyundai vehicles.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRAS STEERING BECOMES EXTREMELY HARD TO STEER, THEN THE ENGINE STALLS OUT AND THE DASH LIGHTS COME ON. I'M FRIGHTEN OF CRASHING WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I RESTART THE ENGINE AND THE STEERING RETURNS TO NORMAL. THE CAUSE IS A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING (MDPS) CONNECTOR. THERE WAS A RECALL (#161) FOR A REPLACEMENT ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING MOTOR AT NO CHARGE FOR THIS YEAR MAKE AND MODEL VEHICLE BUT I'M TOLD MINE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THAT RECALL?

While driving the steering locks up and the power steering light comes on. You turn off the vehicle and turn it back on it clears the light in the dash drives fine for a little while then does it again

Pain is peeling on roof and hood

Door handles have to be pulled multiple times to open the door, specially it’s at night it’s very dangerous for a girl and scary I can’t get into my car when I needed to.

UNKNOWN. Battery died out on my twice, every two years. Motor needed to be replaced after 5 years.

The contact's uncle owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while the owner was driving at an unknown speed, the steering wheel seized and failed to turn left or right. The owner stated no warning light was illuminated. The owner restarted the vehicle and was able to continue driving to his destination. The owner took the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed with needing the steering wheel trim to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience the failure. The contact took the vehicle back to the local dealer and made them aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 55,000.

The rear door on the driver’s side will not open from the inside or outside. This was not the result of a collision or incident. A quick online check revealed this to be an issue with several Hyundai vehicles.

While driving the trunk latch broke and the trunk flew open. There is no damage to the trunk or rear end of the vehicle. We did not hit any pot holes we were on a straight way driving and the trunk just opened. Now it won't close. The truck light won't go out. I am glad we weren't on the highway going at a higher rate of speed and this happened.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds and making turns, the steering wheel became stiff and uncontrollable. The steering warning light was illuminated. The local dealer was notified and scheduled a service appointment. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 46000.

Door handles not functioning on my vehicle. Rear drivers side door will not open from inside or outside.Front passenger door does not open from outside only from inside. Front drivers door has had issues opening and closing door handle currently falling off. No known recalls or safety alerts for my vehicle even though Hyundai has released a 10 year extended warranty on door handles mine is not warrantable to my knowledge.

This is a very unsafe vehicle. There should be a recall!!!! This is a well known problem, yet Huyndai and NTHSA does nothing. How many people will be involved in an accident or killed before you do something? This vehicle has been having check engine light come on multiple times in past month. When it does the whole car shudders/shakes , and won't accelerate. There is also a knocking. THIS IS AN ACCIDENT wAITING TO HAPPEN! First time I took it in was to a Firestone shop as Huyndai had no opening for weeks. I drive 60 miles 1 way for my job, so couldn't wait for Huyndai. Firestone said it was misfiring, and that it was very low on oil. They couldn't get it to duplicate the incident, so couldn't figure out the problem. An oil change was done. Multiple times in next 2 weeks the light would come on, then sometimes go off with no other issues, but sometimes the same knocking sounds and shaking. I took it back to Firestone and they determined a coil needed to be replaced and a spark plug. And in that short of time the oil was seriously low again. These fixes were done. The next day after picking it up, same issues!!!! Firestone won't work on it now as they don't know what else to do. We have an appointment with Huyndai but not until Sept. 12th. What am I supposed to do???? Take a chance of dying every day to get to work? I can't afford a rental for the next few weeks until Huyndai can look at it. This is so unfair. Why haven't you made Huyndai recall and fix this very well known issue? Please help!

My car stalled twice while driving on my way to work and had a weird knocking sound. I brought this to my local mechanic and they believed it was Rod Knock cause by premature rod bearing failure. They said this is a common issue with Hyundai 2.0L 4 cylinder engines and told me to reach out to a Hyundai dealership. The first dealer I called said if it was the rod bearing it would be covered under an extended warranty. That dealership couldn’t get me in for 3-4 weeks so I called the dealership I purchased the car new at. They said the same thing that it was a common issue with the 2.0 4 cylinder engines and said they could get me in in less than a week. I paid to have my car towed to them on Friday and they called me this morning confirming that it is a worn rod bearing and informed me I would need a new engine. They said that my specific VIN is not covered by their extended warranty covering this specific issue. It is my understanding that specific models using the same engine are covered but for some reason mine is not. I just spent over $2000 on the engine with issues that they said they wouldn’t cover and now they want me to pay them over $7000 to replace the engine on an issue they are aware of in this 2.0l engine they manufactured. Please help me to rectify this issue with my car. I cannot afford $7000+ for a new engine and I certainly cannot afford a new car. This car is less than 6 years old and I would have expected power train to last significantly longer.

Bought 2017 Hyundai Elantra in May 2020 car had no paint peeling at Odometer reading 82,888. In October 2020 the paint on the hood of the car near the headlights started peeling the odometer reading was about 92,897 at that point. A couple months later the roof next to the windshield start peeling too. Now those spots have grown each time it rains. These spots are now starting to rust. Obviously this is bringing down the value of the car. Not to mention it makes the car look terrible. After I bought the car I went out and put new tires and wheels on it plus other accessories to make it stand out only to have the paint start peeling and have it look terrible. As a consumer I should not have to pay for Hyundai mistake in painting thier cars incorrectly.

Car is easy to steal because you only need a USB to start the ignition and someone recently attempted to steal mine, but was caught in the act.

Ignition coils in my car have failed three times in between 2021-2022. First repair was back in October of 2021 for misfiring cylinder. Both the check engine and low oil pressure light came on in the middle of my drive. It was like a lightbulb suddenly blowing up. Roadside assistance was called the following day to pick my car up and tow to dealership. Second occurrence was July 30, 2022 and diagnosed on August 5, 2022. My car shook and jolted when idle and even turned off in the middle of an intersection. Cylinder #3 was reported to be misfiring and coil was replaced by the dealership. However, two days after the replacement of the coil, the light comes back on and my car begins to jolt at idle once more. Engine turned off in the parking lot this time around. Performed a diagnostic and found cylinder #2 to be misfiring. Currently awaiting repairs for this specific issue once more but my car will go back and forth between smooth driving and its rattling.

The contact owned a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving approximately 45 MPH, the fuel warning light flickered and the radio activated and deactivated independently. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was determined that the vehicle was performing as designed due to a satellite not being connected. On another occasion, the vehicle accelerated on its own and the brake pedal hesitated to respond. The contact depressed the brake pedal to the floorboard in order for the vehicle to come to a stop. The vehicle was taken to another dealer due to the above failures; in addition to shuttering and jerking while depressing on the accelerator, as if it was not receiving fuel. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact did a private diagnosis which indicated electrical system malfunction. The contact was informed to start using a halo battery charger to jump the vehicle. The contact then stated while driving at approximately 40 MPH at night, the vehicle started accelerating inadvertently, and she then turned on high beams for better visibility to pull over safely; however, they failed. The contact then pulled her emergency brakes and ended in a ditch. All air bags deployed. The contacts phone and alert device did not operate. The contact was able to call her son, who called 911. The police, fire, and paramedics arrived on the scene. The fire department cut the contact out of the destroyed vehicle. There were no medical treatments on the scene. The contact was transported to the hospital. The entire driver's side of the vehicle from the front end to the back rear and the entire front of the vehicle was destroyed. The contact experienced a bad concussion and blacked out. The vehicle was towed to the wrecking yard. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 44,000.

Started having intermittent misfires on various cylinders, specifically cylinder 3. (Code P0303) This would mainly cause the engine to stall, or idle. No accidents or injuries to report, but having a car stall out at 80 MPH on the freeway is certainly scary as hell. Just frustration and possible damage to other parts of the engine (spark plugs and some wiring). Took vehicle into local auto shop where they reproduced the problem, but informed me of TSB 20-FL-001H, which can only be fixed by a Hyundai dealership due to the ECM reprogramming and the proprietary nature of the tool to perform that. As such I have taken the vehicle to a Hyundai Dealership where, again, they were able to find and diagnose the problem, as well as determine the spark plugs were likely fouled by the known-faulty ignition coil packs. This is the third time in 75,000 miles I've replaced them.

Bad Ignition Colis Poor Fuel Economy: if you notice that your car is getting less mileage from a full tank than normal, this could mean that you have a bad ignition coil. This takes place because, when your, spark plugs aren’t getting a certain power, the system will try to compensate by taking more fuel. Hard Starts And Stalling: the ignition needs to spark at just the right time for the engine to start and a vehicle to run. If an ignition coil is malfunctioning and not delivering the required voltage to the spark plugs, you will find it hard to start the engine. Misfiring Engine: A malfunctioning ignition coil will cause your vehicle to misfire when you accelerate. In some other cases, a misfire could cause your vehicle to shut down while you are driving

My car keeps stalling. I have replaced three of the four cylinder coils in one year Thank you [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

activated airbag warning light on dashboard

Right rear passenger door will not open. The door will not open from the inside or the outside. The latch is in the "unlocked position" and the child safety lock is off. The child safety lock is proven to be off, as the left rear door will open as it should. Unlocking, locking, child safety lock on or off, starting the car, turn the engine off-nothing allows you to open the door. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN. PLEASE ASSIST IN HAVING HYUNDAI MAKE THIS A RECALL. Thank you. Mileage 82K.

The engine stalled out while driving on the highway. No indicator warning lights came on. The vehicle would not restart. Had to be pushed off the road. Prior to the engine, the tire pressure gauge warning indicator light did not work when tire went flat. I was driving on the interstate 23 back end slid. I pulled off the road and the driver side back tire was completely flat. Put on spare tire.all the lights on dash came on . Went straight to tire garage had 2 tires on back put on. The vehicle is at Tim Short Hyundai dealership in Pikeville Ky. Has been there since 03/11/2022. The engine problem occurred 02/26/22. I had vehicle taken to Carbon Auto Repair shop in Paintsville Ky. The mechanic stated the engine would have to be replaced. I called Hyundai dealership and informed what happened. They scheduled an appointment for inspection. Case # 19459076. Case Manager is Shemroy # is 1-833-462-8722 ext65413. Tim Short Hyundai dealership in Pikeville Ky # is 1-606-437-1300. I have called the dealership several occasions no results or they leave me on the line until it automatically hangs up. They do the Case manager same way.I have only had the vehicle for a 1 year and it is only 4years old total. This is a safety hazard. Multiple vehicles were around me both incidents. I have seen recalls on same make and model as my vehicle. I just don't want this to continue to happen.i would appreciate any help. I uploaded emails to show as well as I have several voicemails saved. I just want the right thing done. Also the paint has peeled off hood roof and now the side panels. The vehicle is at dealership in Pikeville Ky if you would inspected it. Has been there since this occurred.

My back passenger door will not open from inside or outside.

2017 Elantra - pearl/white paint color, paint is peeling on roof of car as well as the hood of the car. Paint/clear coat gone

At 103,000 miles my engine had a catastrophic failure. My car threw a code for P0014 and the only thing was a possible cam position sensor. The engine threw a rod while driving with no warning. After checking online for complaints similar to this I found that the engines on the 2017 model wer failing the same as the 2014 which they were recalled for and engines replaced. Why this year model has not been recalled yet is beyond understanding.

The rear drivers side door will not open from the inside or outside. Something broke and the door is stuck shut.

I bought my car in 2019 with about 18k miles. My paint started peeling off of my hood and my roof at the beginning of 2021 at 40k miles. Hyundai pretty much told me too bad so sad since I was over 36,000 miles. I have paid to have it fixed multiple times and the paint is still peeling off. I am unable to wash my car without my paint flaking off. I even vinyl wrapped my roof myself to keep the paint from peeling more and rusting. There is discoloration where the paint has peeled off. I read online that if the vehicle rust the Hyundai will fix it however they refused to return my numerous calls and emails and voicemails to the supervisor at Jim click Hyundai in Tucson.

My car was stolen because Hyundai manufacturers have made them easy to break into and start without a key (there is currently a lawsuit going on for Hyundais/Kias). My car was stolen during daylight hours even though it was locked with no valuables inside and parked in the open. I should feel safe parking my car, but even if I get it back, I don't know that I ever will again.

Passenger front door outside latch will not open door, and the same thing happened on the drivers side!

This is just to inform the issue that I faced with my car, Hyundai Elantra 2017. The incident happened twice. I was driving once on an interstate, luckily was driving very slow (due to traffic), when I accelerated a from a halt position the car started to jerk and the engine light came up and the car stopped. I then took the car on the shoulder and turned on the car after 5minutes, luckily the light went away and was able to drive back home slowly and safely without any problem then. Thought it's just a one off situation. This again happened when I was driving in the city; Stopped at a signal and was starting from stop position on a signal when the engine light shows up again and car started to jerk again, with that on I slowly drove 1 mile back to home. The next working day I took it to the dealership to get the car checked. The service center said that they will have to replace 4 spark plugs, 4 Coils, and the driver belt. I got that replaced and got the car back finally after 2 weeks. It was disappointing to hear that warranty didn't cover anything. My car is 5.5 years old and 61,000 miles only and the dealership and Hyundai USA declined the request to cover any of the charges saying it's out of warranty. (i.e. just 1000 miles outside the limit of 60K and 6 months outside the window of 5years). Today I just wanted to share the experience that I had and that just at 61000 miles, it gave what seemed to be a big problem with the powertrain and at that time felt unsafe to drive.

Pressed the unlock button on the fab and the front passenger and back left passenger will not open anymore

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 45 MPH, the check engine warning light illuminated and the vehicle started staking and stalling. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where coil #3 was replaced; however, the failure persisted. An appointment was scheduled with the dealer for a second diagnostic test. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 39,378.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated upon starting the vehicle, he heard abnormal ticking sounds coming from the engine. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the failure occurred increasingly upon depressing the accelerator pedal. The contact stated that the vehicle would respond with delay upon depressing the accelerator pedal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000. The VIN was not available.

Clunky noise on the steering wheel and lock up the steering wheel

My airbags system malfunctioned and I have a airbag light on and it will put my life and other's at risk.

Car has failed to turn over/start on numerous occasions. It will take multiple times to turn over before it fires up. Car has also been very jerky in 1st gear aka going slow. Rough jerking spasms at 10mph or such. Car has also lost power numerous times while driving at high speeds.

Back passenger door locked. Could not open. Originally they told us it would not be covered under warranty.

My 2017 white pearl quartz ELANTRA started to peel in January 2022!! The hood and roof is just horrible. The dealership does not want to do anything about it. I bought this car brand new! This is a paint defect and Hyundai knows it!! This should be recalled!! Tons of other vehicles are just like mine! It’s ridiculous!

The paint of my white Elantra is peeling for about 5 months now!! It is a known issue that the paint is defected!!!

The contact owned a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving approximately 45 mph, the steering wheel seized. There was an abnormal popping noise detected and the air bags deployed. The contact stated the steering was stuck in a trucker's position. A police report was filed. There was no reported crash or fire. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic. The driver sustained injuries to her hands, arm, thighs, brain, and neck and medical attention was provided. The local dealer was notified. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vehicle was deemed a total loss by the insurance company. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was unknown.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 65 MPH, the engine started misfiring. The check engine warning light illuminated. The contact was able to continue driving at a slower speed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that one of the cylinders had misfired and the failure was associated with Technical Service Bulletin Number: 20-FL-001H. The ignition coil and spark plugs were replaced; however, the independent mechanic did not have the ECM software update that completed the repair per the Technical Service Bulletin Number: 20-FL-001H. The local dealer and manufacturer were contacted for assistance but informed the contact that they could not assist as the VIN was not included in a recall or in Technical Service Bulletin Number: 20-FL-001H. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 45,000.

The back door will not open after it is locked and then unlocked

What component or system failed or malfunctioned, and is it available for inspection upon request? - The low beam headlights- 2017 Hyundai Elantra Value Edition How was your safety or the safety of others put at risk? - The low beam headlights on the vehicle need to be replaced every 3-6 months. Most recently both headlights went out at the same time while driving in the dark. Has the problem been reproduced or confirmed by a dealer or independent service center? I have a service appointment requested but the vehicle has not yet been inspected. Has the vehicle or component been inspected by the manufacturer, police, insurance representatives or others? Not at this time Were there any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure, and when did they first appear? The warning light on my dashboard appeared as the headlights went out. no prior warning signs

The car would die while going down the interstate. It would just shut off and you would have to try to safely get off of the road and shut it off and restart it. 60K? miles on the car. We took it to several places to have diagnostic test run and was told it was this sensor then another sensor. Nothing was fixing the problem. Then was told it was the timing. Ended up 2 cam sprockets had to be replaced. Check engine light did come on. This could be a serious hazard if you were not able to get out of the way of other traffic.

I just bought my car used on May 10, 2022. I have been unable to open my driver side door and having difficulty opening my passenger front door. I had the battery on the Key Fob replaced but It is getting more and more difficult. I have to climb into the passenger side to get into my car or have someone open the door manually from the inside of the vehicle.

Driver side door handle has become inoperable. A manufacturer Technical Service Bulletin has been issued in response to repeated failures. This is a safety risk and should be a Manufacturer Recall (not a TSB). Vehicle occupants could become trapped inside the vehicle and unable to escape if the car is on fire, submerged in water or if the occupant needs to exit the vehicle for other personal safety reasons.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the front driver's and rear passenger's doors were not able to open as needed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the door actuators needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 65,000.

My car started misfiring at about 23K miles. It would bog down on the highway and cars, numerous times, we forced to slam on their brakes to avoid hitting me. Over the course of the next 20K I had to change ignition coils 3 times. At just around 61K I went back to the Hyundai dealer (Nashua NH) and I was told that since I bought the car second hand that the 100K warranty was no longer in effect. I would be fully responsible for everything financially going forward. They said the camshaft position sensor was the problem. They said for $1700 they would take the top of my motor off and "see if we can find the problem". At that point I went to my own mechanic. He changed the camshaft position sensor (that didn't fix it),Crankshaft position sensor (that didn't fix it) and the Vvt Solenoid (that didn't fix it). At this point the check engine was saying that now it was the timing belt that was causing problems. So after spending $3K already it would cost another $2K to change the belt. Well that didn't fix anything either. So now, with almost 3 more years of payments to be made the car is undriveable. In 2 weeks I will be paying to $8K more to install a brand new motor in this car. It is the opinion of my mechanic and of the Nashua Hyundai dealer that the reason I need a new motor is because of all of the issues I have had since the day I purchased this car from Carvana. I had Hyundai America look into these issues and they said if I was the original owner they would have taken care of these issues but since I was the second owner it was only warranted for 60K and I was out of luck. Doing some online researcg there have been MANY issues with the motor of the 2017 Elantra. I have 3 years of payments left and when the new motor is in I will have invested about $11K to keep this on the road. I have documented information if you need it. Please look into these issues.

Engine locked up, no warning lights no indications. Have to purchase a new engine it happen on the highway and the car only had 69000 miles, almost cost me an accident

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra has only 61,000 miles on it. It has been maintained on time etc. It is seriously burning oil. Between oil changes it will burn no less than a quart. Most of the time much more. The check engine lights pop on and then the engine dies intermittently while driving numerous times a day. It has done this irregardless of what driving mode the vehicle is in. I have seen 100s of detailed accounts describing the same issue .

I was driving normally as I always do when my engine seized and cut off out of nowhere in the middle of a busy intersection. After dealership inspection I was told the engine was faulty and needed a $10000 replacement

Was driving getting ready to turn in driveway an it dies an will not start it was about a week before it started an now it’s knocking or something never had any lights come on an never had any problems

The car is 6 years old (just past the 5 year warranty). Within the past week, the front and rear passenger doors are unable to be opened from either the outside or the inside. This is an incredible life threatening safety risk. When searching the internet, this is a common problem with Hyundai and is expensive to fix, yet there are no recalls on this.

I own a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Pearl White color. The car has around 40,000 miles on it, and I have paint peeling issues on the hood and the roof. I don't think car paints should peel off this easily. Considering the amount of peeling, I don't think this is natural wear and tear issue. I heard from someone that Hyundai's water based paints had some issues, but since the company is not speaking up for his matter, it is difficult to know what the actual problems are. I would expect Hyundai to step up and deal with this issue :(

The engine is currently consuming oil at a rapid rate. Yes, it is available for inspection. The car has stalled out because the car is consuming oil thereby hurting the engine. The issue was confirmed by the dealer but they are refusing to help. Yes, the car has been inspected by Hyundai and also by an independent, licensed mechanic. The warning lamps only just recently occured. Upon research, my independent, licensed mechanic confirmed this was a known issue. Hyundai declined to assist on multiple occasions.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated the rear passenger’s side door failed to open. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact took the vehicle to an independent mechanic and was informed that the rear passenger’s side door latch needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that shortly afterward, the front passenger’s and front driver’s side doors failed to open. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 90,000.

Back rear passenger door no longer can be opened from the inside or outside of the car, and it is not locked. This problem started about 6 weeks ago. Starting three days ago my passenger front door will no longer open from the outside but will open from the inside, and it too is not locked.

Car stalled out. Parked it on should and 15-20 minutes later smoke started coming from the hood. Then fire from behind the engine.

The Elantra will randomly stall out while driving. What happens is that the CVVT solenoid relies on clean oil and when it's not clean the solenoid related the timing so much that the engine stalls out, usually on deceleration or when coming to a stop. This happened to me in the past. It requires you to change the oil and filter at short intervals to avoid the problem. It's a safety because it stalls out on the road and you need to put it in park or neutral to restart it.

My rear vehicle Doors will not open, could not get my passenger out. My visually impaired son had to climb over front seat to finally, get out. Thankfully , there was no emergency. No warning lights about problem. Waiting for inspection by dealership. Very hard to get appointment for service.

Closed to back passenger door normally as usual and will not open back up from the outside or the inside. If I were to have a wreck, backseat passengers would not be able to exit the vehicle. I have not had any wrecks in this car and there is no damage to the outside or inside of the vehicle.

Rear left door does not open from the inside or the outside

Passenger front and rear door handles will not open the doors. Nothing is wrong with the vehicles, and the lock system functions properly. By reading online, I can tell this is a VERY common problem and poses an extremem problem when it comes to possibly needing saved in a wreck.

Rear doors are locked unable to open them from the inside or outside

Vehicle loses all acceleration when making turns or coasting slowly. Only way to restore acceleration is to put vehicle in park and turn the key into the off position and then restart the car.

Doors stop opening. Unable to open 3 out of 4 doors. Door will not open from inside or outside. This is a huge safety concern. If you google “Hyundai Elantra doors won’t open” there are MANY people with this issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Sonata. The contact stated while driving approximately 30 MPH, he heard a rattling sound coming from the engine. The contact took the vehicle to the local dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that there was metal debris in the engine and, the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was advised by the dealer that there was an open Manufacturer Recall Campaign Number: 953 (ECM/Engine Monitoring Logic). The manufacturer had been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 79,000. Consumer stated engine blew up not too long after the purchase, in 2021. Apparently a recall was sent out in 2018 but was not an owner back then.

Hyundai Elantra 2017 just starts shaking. First time it happened when I turned on the car (check engine light came on but went off again after restarting it). Second time it started shaking while driving on highway and almost caused an accident. I pulled off and restarted car and shaking stopped. Both cases the engine light came on but didn’t stay on for me to get it checked. I believe this to be a very common problem. Hearing a lot about faulty coils and spark plugs that lead to much worse problems. Also, both back doors will not open. I’ve been told this is due to a bad plastic part inside door that commonly breaks. Hyundai will not take responsibility for either. This is very unfortunate and causing a ton of problems for many people!

1) The transmission has a delay in shifting, and I smell burning under the hood. I took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I was told nothing was wrong with it. The problem has been coming back. The dealership was Dennis Hyuandai on Morse Rd in Cols. Oh. 43219 2) I am afraid I may have this problem on the highway some day, as it has become more frequent. 3) Dealer claims nothing wrong with the transmission. 4) No I didn't know I had this opption. 5) No none. It has been and on and off problem for nearly 2yrs

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the rear passenger’s side door failed to open whenever unlocked. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed or repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer had been notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 102,000.

rear door actuators cease to unlatch despite being engaged from the interior and exterior handles to open while unlocked.

It seems that there are issues with the ignition coils. I've replaced all four coils and in about 5-6 months later, I had to replace one and a couple months later we had to replace another. The spark plugs were changed the first time when the coils were replaced. The date given below is when I had to replace the 2nd unit.

My Hyundai Elantra 2017 died while driving on the highway. Started with hesitation when accelerated and died on the highway. The vehicle would not restart

While driving on highway the vehicle quit running and would not restart. It seemed it lost power prior to completely dying. Check engine light came on when starting and had some hesitation but started then once on highway stalled out. Paint is also coming off hood color is Pearl White

While sitting at a busy red light (02/15/2022), the car just cut off. No warnings, no lights, just cut off. After several attempts, I managed to get car started. Traffic was piled up behind me. I took it to a local auto store that will run engine checks for free. No problems were found. The employee said it just registered "recharge battery". The car had no more problems that day. I did report it and was supposed to "stop by dealership" in the next few days, as this was "not a safety issue and it could be recharged quickly". The next evening, my daughter drove me to the store for some needed items. On the way back, she was slowly veering right at a yield sign and the engine cut off again. It was dark and the way the road curved, cars coming from behind us would not be able to see us. We were afraid that we would be hit from behind, causing injury to us and anyone in the other vehicle. The car would not restart. As the car was still slightly rolling, my daughter tried to veer over into a parking lot, to get us to safety. In the darkness, she was unable to see a ditch beside the entrance of parking lot and we fell straight into it, headfirst. We called for a sheriff's deputy, who came quickly. He mentioned that we were not in a safe area for "strangers". He placed his car, with his lights flashing, in the lane, near the intersection, in order to alert drivers coming near. I was told to have it towed to dealership. (I had just purchased it 12/24/2021.) Deputy did not make a formal report, as he stated their policy is to NOT do that in accidents with just one car. We had the car towed as instructed and a friend came to drive us home. This started a long, legal process with the dealership, which I can give further details on, if needed. My daughter and I could have easily been hit from behind. We could have been severely injured or lost our lives. An unsuspecting driver veering right at that intersection could have had the same fate, as it was too dark to see our car.

The rear drivers side door will not open from inside or outside. The lock works when car is in gear but the door will not open!

The paint on the hood of the car is lifting and peeling.

In June 2021 (41600 miles), my car cut off 3 times without service engine light coming on. When I stopped at lights and/or idle, the shuts off without warning. This is extremely dangerous for anyone on the highway or at traffic lights. The reason for the car shutting down is that the car's cylinder 2 misfired. I had to take my car twice, just for the dealership to say nothing is wrong with my car. I had to use my T-Mobile Sync Up to get the code and relay that message to the dealership. They would not fix it until I had a code. (What if I didn't have the Sync Up in my car to diagnose the problem. Once the dealership had the code, then the cylinder 2 ignition coil was replaced. I have an invoice. In February 2022 (44000 miles), the same thing happened at traffic lights and when my car was about to stop for parking. No advance "check service light" came on. The car just shuts off. This time T-Mobile Sync Up states that it was cylinder 4 misfired. But, when I took it to the dealership, they say nothing is wrong. They don't believe me unless it is in the car's system's history. But, T-Mobile Sync Up determined the problem before the dealership can find it. I don't have an invoice yet of the problem. This is a safety hazard and I spoke with a representative at my dealership and she stated that a lot of vehicles were having this safety issue. Someone could of ran in back of me. It's a good thing I didn't have kids in the car!! All of the cylinders' ignition coils need to be RECALLED. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE!!!

November 2, 2021 driving on the freeway, car started to shake, travelling at approximately 5mph in traffic. Check engine light came on and stayed on. Not knowing what was going on with the car took it to an independent mechanic to determine the problem. Mechanic ran diagnostics and determined car was misfiring. All 4 spark plugs were replaced and 2 coils. Induction cleaning was performed. February 4, 2022 car started shaking at a stop light, pulled into a parking lot. My father came to get the car and the check engine light came on. My father used an OBD meter and determined the car was misfiring once again. He was going to replace the coils himself, called Hyundai to see how much they would charge and was told that it was under warranty. Hyundai ended up replacing 4 coils. The coils placed installed in November did not meet the new coils that Hyundai is now using as OEM parts. Seems like this should be a recall if Hyundai knows that the coils delivered with the car our faulty. Tried to recover some of the costs from Hyundai for the previous work and was told they do not reimburse work done at independent mechanics.

Passenger front door will not open from outside. Passenger rear door will not open from inside or outside.

For almost 2 years now I have had issues with my vehicle. In the middle of me driving, all the light would come on and sometimes just the engine light and the car would proceed to stop working. This had happened on the highway while I was pregnant and I almost got into a major accident. I have major anxiety because of the situation. Each time I would get the car towed to the dealership where I purchased it. They will have my car for months at a time, notify me when the issue is supposedly resolved and then return car back to me. A week or 2 later, the problem would happen again. I have had to take my car to the shop 5 major times. My safety, my child’s safety, and husband’s safety have been placed in jeopardy. I am very afraid to even step foot in the car. The problem has never been fixed. My car is currently at the dealership receiving service for the same issue. I am still paying on the car and it hasn’t worked for almost 2 years. I’ve tried to sell the car back to the dealership but they said there is a negative equity on the car and they aren’t willing to pay the difference. When I mention to them all that I have been through with the car, I am told the situation sucks but there is nothing they can do. This car should have been recalled from the beginning and no one ever reported it. I was told by an attorney that after the fourth time, there should have been alternative solutions such as: replacement of the vehicle or compensation. It still makes me feel scared to trust that they will fix the issue because as I have mentioned before, the problem keeps occurring. I have reported to the National BBB and I have 2 cases open with Hyundai Customer Care Center. Hyundai Customer Care Center has yet to respond to me. This issue has effected my ability to go to work because I don’t have transportation, my credit, my safety and family’s safety and overall wellbeing. I’ve tried several times to get this matter resolved. I have all of my receipts.

Two ignition coils have failed. The first was covered under warranty, the second wasn't. We were told the ignition coils are a known issue and we should expect the remaining coils to fail soon. If it's a known issue, why hasn't a recall been done?

Drivers door handle does not open the car door on the first try when the car is unlocked. It takes 3-5 attempts at pulling the door handle to open the door. The drivers side door opens at first attempt from the inside. This has not been inspected by the manufacturer, police, or other representatives. There are no warning messages related to the problem. This is dangerous in multiple situations, as you cannot get into your car immediately in case of emergency.

Engine idles rough, shifts rough, idles high, stalls, and sometimes just simply won't run. CEL came on when it was time for an oil change/service, had oil and filter changed at Express Lube, and had them run a diagnostic on the CEL to make sure it was for the oil change, it was code P0017 cam/crankshaft. They cleared the code to be sure it wasn't just a glitch, CEL came right back on not even 50 miles down the road, and the car stalled in the middle of traffic, barely made it out of harms way with my two children in the car! I bought this car in October 2021, made my first payment in December 2021 and the CEL came on originally in January 2022. After spending the money to have it diagnosed further by my Hyundai Dealer where I purchased the car, the technician confirmed the P0017 code and also that it is a timing chain issue and that it's recommended to just replace the entire motor! The car is barely 4 years old, not even 100k miles, and I am only the SECOND owner! How does this just happen to such a new car with lower mileage that has a good maintenance history just all of a sudden needs a new motor? I can't afford to keep making high payments on an unsafe vehicle. I have searched through the complaints about this specific model and have found several identical cases related to the P0017 code which tells me this is a reoccurring malfunction from Hyundai and they need to own that responsibility before a class action lawsuit is filed. CEL came on at approximately 95K miles which would qualify for the powertrain warranty but since I am the second owner the warranty is no good. Someone help please!!

One of the four ignition coils failed. Car started shaking originally at 60mph and continued to shake when stopped. Check engine light flashed on and off during the drive. Problem was reproduced and confirmed by the reading of the engine code (P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected). No warning prior to car starting to shake. Check engine light didn't come on until after car started shaking. Ignition coil was replaced by owner, no dealer or independent service center was involved in fixing the vehicle.

Unable to open driver side door from outside, known latch issue. The first time this happened fob was inside car while heating up and could not get into car even with another key/fob through any door. Had to crawl through trunk. If someone such as a child or infant had been inside who could not open door, would have been a safety issue. So now cannot heat car with door locked until repair is completed. Problem is constant. Known issue with the car and Hyundai has extended the warranty to cover, but as it is a safety hazard a recall should be considered. Appointment has been scheduled for repair

Check engine light on with diagnostic error code P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected ignition coil

The white paint simply started to peel off of the hood, leaving a big unpainted spot. This has been happening to a lot of Hyundai owners with cars with white paint, because Hyundai used defective paint. It actually is a safety issue because when driving on the highway large pieces of paint can come off of the hood and go into the windshield, distracting the drive. I can't believe you guys haven't issued a recall. So you are essentially making car owners pay to have the cars repainted? How is that possible?

On five different occasions over the past several months, the power steering has ceased to function, generally after the car has been driven and then parked. It suddenly appears to resolve itself after the steering wheel is operated manually numerous times. The local Hyundai dealer has stated that they will not attempt to diagnose the problem unless the car is towed in inoperable. If this failure occurs while driving, it could result in a catastrophic situation, as steering the vehicle would be extremely difficult.

My passenger rear door which I barely use will not open from the inside or outside. In addition, when I turn at a slow speed I have problems with the steering wheel not turning smoothly and when I break the vehicle jolts. I have told the dealership about the steering wheel and the jolting and they haven’t done anything about it. That has been going on for a few years. The door I just noticed a month ago.

Around the end of 2019 is when I purchased my vehicle. Mid 2020 is when the issue first started. The paint first came off in a big chunk on the right side of the hood, then an even bigger chunk on the left. Now it's moved up to the roof of my vehicle and I dont think it's stopping any time soon. Initially I assumed maybe I did something wrong until I saw multiple other Elantras with the same exact issue. Now I know Hyundai is at fault

We have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra color white. In 2018 we noticed the paint peeling and thought something got on the spot, but as time went on the peeling continued and was in other spots. After seeing other people had the same problem. There is definitely a paint issue that has destroyed the car value andposes a major problem for maintaining the car.

The engine has produced knocking sound at 134000 miles. I replaced spark plugs, ignition coil and upgraded the fuel to higher octane, but the problem is unresolved

The right back passenger door can not open from the inside or outside. The driver's door does not open from the inside. If there is an emergency my children who are new drivers could not get out of the vehicle fast enough. I researched this issue and it seems to be a concern of other Hyundai owners. Are the door latches and locks faulty?

Three out of the four doors are not opening properly. They are either not opening from the inside, not opening from the outside or both. Dealer confirms the problem. If there was a serious accident and evacuation was necessary this would be a serious issue.

Left a location driving my vehicle normally the check engine light comes on, then my vehicle loses acceleration and then my vehicle stalls and I almost didn’t make it home.

Often times the rear video backup camera built into the car blanks out when reversing, randomly. Dealership said it’s possibly bad wiring but would be expensive to investigate, with me on the hook for paying if they can’t locate the issue. After going two years with this issues intermittently occurring, I was able to get a new camera installed under warranty, as a way to ensure the camera itself is the issue. In the end, blanking out condition is still present. I do check my mirrors often but it’s not safe for this camera to blank out as often as it does. I’m hoping this is an isolated issue but in the case more owners have this concern I’d like NHTSA to investigate the matter and if needed, recall affected vehicles. A family member drove my car and was involved in a minor fender bender, with the family member stating that the back up camera camera blanked out a few times in a couple seconds as another vehicle entering their mirrors blinds spots (directly in back of car) came through. If the camera would’ve been working properly it’s possible my driver wouldn’t have stuck the other vehicle.

I have two doors latches that recently failed. Both will not open proving to be a serious safety concern. Front passenger door and rear passenger door.

Both of the rear doors will not open. This started with the driver rear door and now the other side will not open. You have to forcefully pull on the door any where from 10-15 times sometimes to get it to open. The longer it has been left alone the more times it takes to get it open again. This is not a driver issue this is a manufacturer problem. This is also a safety hazard. I have looked this up and many Hyundai cars have had this same issue.

Rear passenger side door has become inoperable. This poses a safety risk as you cannot exit the vehicle from that side if an emergency arises. This is a common problem with this vehicle and should have a recall issued by now. The door opening mechanism has become damaged due to poor design, as this is a common problem mentioned all over the internet. This latch costs $1200, but was inoperable within only 4 years.

My daughter purchased her first car, a 2017 Hyundai Elantra, last December (2020). She drove it for the first few months without any major issues but then it started having issues with the car “jerking” and stalling every time she drove it. It actually stopped in the middle of the road multiple times and she had to start it up again, which is highly unsafe. The check engine light came on and she took it to the local O’Reilley auto parts for the free diagnostic scan. It pulled up a camshaft sensor. Her best friend’s dad is a local mechanic and has a high-tech reader, so he plugged it in and it pulled up camshaft/crankshaft. He also noted that the oil was really low (she had it for six months at this point). No oil light on. They added oil to it. The car sat in our driveway for a few months until we could afford to repair it. Took it to the local repair store and they stated that one of the major issues was the timing chain was loose due to “worn sprockets” (which the mechanic stated appeared to be a manufacturing defect as they are too short to properly grasp like they are supposed to). After completing a $1800 timing belt repair they are now stating that, that was not the only issue and that the motor itself is going to need to be replaced. At this point, the car is not valued at the price of the repairs and replacement, leaving my daughter without a car and with a finance payment. I’m at a loss of what to do. I do not know much about cars but I do know that a car that was manufactured in 2017 should not need an entire motor replaced by 2021.

Check engine light came on while driving to dealership for an unrelated recall on door handle. A diagnosis of the car computer showed a code of P0128 Coolant Thermostat. Further check of information on this particular problem produced a Technical Service Bulletin from the manufacturer, Hyundai, Number 18-01-012. This bulletin was found on the NHTSA site. I notified the dealership and sent a copy of the bulletin. The dealership refused to comply with the bulletin and never returned our calls. I tried another dealership and Hyundai corporate office in California, and again was refused to comply with the bulletin. The replacement of this part was to be performed by any dealership if this particular vehicle was brought in for any type of service. The dealership manager, service manager and service department were all rude to my wife and myself in person and by phone. One person told my wife to fix it herself and hung up on her. Since obtained this bulletin from NHTSA website I feel that the refusal to perform the work is in direct violation of a known defect to this car. There is no recalls listed for this car even though I received a recall notice concerning the door opening flaw. There is nothing noted about the problem with the Coolant Thermostat even though the Manufacturer and NHTSA have both reported the problem. This repair was to be made regardless of whether there was a noted problem or not, as per the writing on the Technical Service Bulletin.

My vehicle, and hundreds if not thousands of other same make/models, are experiencing a heavy paint peeling issue. It is highly unsafe and ill-considerate for the environment and also for consumers. In the face of the COVID-19 Pandemic, many of us are already struggling in many areas of our lives. To have such an expensive issue arise in these times is mentally damaging. My vehicle cannot go in an automatic car wash or even be driven in windy or rainy conditions. Corporate directed me to have this inspected by a dealership and the dealership refused to help and said corporate needs to handle the problem at hand. Corporate continues to send me back to the dealership. The paint peeling off exposes the body down to the bare metal and can begin rusting. If this begins happening, pieces of the vehicles body could become severely damaged and be a live hazard on the road.

Elantra was running fine, parked the car at the store and went to start it and it didn't start. Tried starting it multiple times before smoke started coming out of the engine. Had the car towed to a Hyundai dealership to have it diagnosed and found out the engine was seized and the starter was blown due to trying to start the vehicle.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while operating the vehicle, the check engine warning light would remain illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle would jerk and hesitate and experience unintended acceleration. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer who diagnosed that the fuel injectors were faulty. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was contacted regarding the failure, but no assistance was offered. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.

Rear passenger Door Will not open from the inside or outside. Huge safety issues if get in a wreck and can get out.

According to the Hyundai Dealership, located in Corona, CA, the Hyundai Elantra's are known for the ignition coil to go out. This is also not covered under warranty and list below of why it should be: This can cause Engine misfiring in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise. When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light. Driving with a faulty coil pack can damage other components of the engine. Also most cars will register a faulty coil and immediately stop gas feed to that cylinder. However, damage may be caused if the fault isn’t registered by the PCM and the dead cylinder continues to receive gas. Your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors may become contaminated by raw gas and need to be replaced. This can be dangerous if it is a known common issue in a Hyundai Elantra and cause an accident when travelling at a higher speed. I was at a stop when this problem occurred for me but was able to safely move out of the way.

Abbreviated. Full description in files. Since July 2021, I have had intermittent issues with my 2017 Hyundai Elantra. When trying to accelerate, the car would struggle to move and feel like it was about to stall. The engine light would come on any time I would step on the gas. It was a danger should my car refused to accelerate while making a turn, merge, etc. On 8/31, I brought my car to Healey Hyundai. However, Healey could not fix the car, as the error codes were not in the car. On 9/6 I was able to drive to Healey Hyundai within the same day of the issue. The error code, a misfire on cylinder 2. On 9/16, Hyundai Motor Corp recognized there was a premature failure of the ignition coil on cylinder 2. A warranty repair was done to replace the ignition coil. Once fixed, a representative from Healey Hyundai acknowledge they had seen this issue before. They went so far as to warn me that the other ignition coils could go at any time. On 9/27 at 11 am, the issue occurred again and worse than I ever experienced it. The engine light turned on and my car struggled to move. For 15 minutes until I was able to safely stop. Once off, the light went away, and it appeared to operate normally. On 9/28 at 1 pm, I brought the car to Healey Hyundai again. It was 26 hours, 30 miles, and 4 starts since the issue occurred. However, the error codes were again missing from the car. Healey Hyundai was not able to reproduce. And while I have felt the car shutter and hesitate since, it is not enough for the engine light to turn on. The original ignition coils installed in the car are faulty. They overheat during normal use causing them to melt and warp. It also explains why the issue has decreased as the weather cools. Also alarming is the excessively short period of time error codes are stored in the computer. It is a matter of time till my car fails again and I am afraid for my safety when it does.

The 2017 Hyundai Elantra value edition has issues when and after making left turns the vehicle stalls and loses power causing the cluster to light up. Which can be extremely dangerous when operating the vehicle. There is no check engine light or any indicator that turns on prior on the cluster before the vehicle stalls. The intermediate steering shaft is notorious for going bad and had to have it replaced.

While accelerating on moderate incline engine has failed three times and souns like it’s flooding. After taking the vehicle to the dealership, they reported no engine failures or misfires were documented by the vehicles OBD. Engine has become excessively noisy, but after a 17 mile driving test by the dealership, they reported not experiencing any issues or hearing any noises. Vehicle Mileage: ~48.5K miles.

The brakes on this car are HORRIFYING. Sometimes the brakes shudder so hard that your body will physically lurch forward with the braking. (and this is only when braking from 45-50 mph, anymore feels like the car is falling apart) It feels almost as if the right front brake is ‘sticking’ causing the car to brake unevenly and stop later than it should. Sometimes I have to fully push down on the brakes to get it to stop all the way. Sometimes I will let go of the brakes and the car will slow down itself in a strange lurky way…. If I am going over 70 like on the interstate, and push on the brakes, they feel as if they cannot handle braking… The whole car, steering wheel, peddles and all vibrate intensly like the car is about to fall apart. and I’ve had many scary encounters where I have to glide my car out to the right to get the car to stop in time. I have taken into the Hyundai dealership multiple times. They always say nothing is wrong with it. I have owned this car less than a year and it is just now hitting 47,000 miles. The brakes just feel wrong. The car stability is almost nonexistant. I feel every bump or slight dip in the road, and the car follows them roughly. When braking while hitting a bump, I might as well not use them, as they won’t lock in until after the rough road. Scary car.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at 25-30MPH, the vehicle inadvertently stalled. The contact stated he saw smoke coming from underneath the hood of the vehicle. The check engine warning light illuminated. The contact veered to the side of the road, where he checked the engine and oil level but could not determine the cause of the failure. The contact stated he continued to drive the vehicle, however, the vehicle would not go past 30 MPH. The independent mechanic came to the contact's residence and diagnosed that the engine had failed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the failure was caused by a lack of engine oil. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and advised that they would cover the replacement of the engine based on the dealer's diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 101,000.

The rear driver side door will not open from the inside or outside. Huge safety concern in case of accident - and also just everyday use problem. The passenger side door latch will not open from the outside. It will open from the inside.

The engine shakes while driving slowly or idle and starts to act like it will stall. Happened in the middle of driving several times including on the freeway where I was lucky enough to get off to the side of the road without getting hit. Turns out the ignition coils are bad and was confirmed after trying to replicate the problem several times. This has been reported several times for this make and year. Looks like some years were previously recalled but not my specific vehicle. Yet it was still a problem. This presents an extreme safety hazard as you do not know when it will stall and can do so while driving. With repeated reports of this part being affected, there should be a recall. Seems like hyundai is trying to save money at the expensive of the driver's safety. My previous Elantra lasted for 13 years without this problem.

Air bag light malfunction sensor on no accidents

The driver rear door will not open from the inside or from the outside. No matter how you lock/unlock it when you pull either door handle nothing happens basically leaving a rear seated passenger trapped.

Heavy engine knocking, no warning lights came on, had low oil (oil changed 1.5 months ago), car stalled 30 seconds after pulling to expressway shoulder

The car shut out of without warning. On 10/6/2021:I pulled into the carport, as soon as I stopped the car shut off. All of the dash lights were off, radio was off, and door with not open with the buttons. The light came back on around 5 seconds later. 9/16/2021: the car shut off when was sitting in the car talking to my mom on my cell phone. Suddenly, the car shut off: no radio, no lights on the dash, the doors only opened manually. The key fob would not work. The brakes locked, the car would not start. I was able to start my ten minutes later. I purchased a battery around 3/2021.

Well my car is making a deal bad noise when I turn to the right I just recently realize that this year make moudel had a recall on the steering but where is the data base provided for me that it was fixed cause I can't find anything on it at and if it was fixed how do we know it wasn't a default part put back in my car need to have this looked into because when I turn to the right it's like it takes control of the steering and then I lose all power of steering not at all times normally at low rates of speed when turning towards the right or making the right turn at times it feels like going down the highway at 75 miles per hour but it's wanting to take control of the car at times

Engine stall while turning. Metal flakes in the engine. Engine completely failed requiring a new engine. Factory paint failed and bubbles off.

This is a manufacturing defect issue, not a safety issue. The paint on my white Hyundai Elantra is peeling from the undercoat on the hood. The mileage is just about 8,000 miles past the paint warranty. The car is kept in the garage and well maintained. While washing it with a garden hose, the paint quickly and easily peeled off the hood in giant chucks. I found this seems to be a common problem in many states.

Randomly stall all different times all lights will light up and coast until stopped. Down a hill and to turn it would stall. Go into 8 most serious accidents. I need someone to reach out cuz this car is not safe to drive wit kids at all

Rear passenger door will unlock but not open.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle was idling rough. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience failure. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that they were unable to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

The back passenger door suddenly can not be opened from inside or outside. Huge safety issue. Just out of warranty and it seems to be a common Hyundai problem after searching. There was no warning at all. Please have Hyundai recall this severe safety problem that is affecting so many cars!

The steering wheel on the vehicle is loose and jagged; therefore when I turn the steering wheel it does not follow. I have to turn slowly to make the adjustment and I can hear the griding in the steering wheel system as I try to steer. I must get a repair as soon as possible fearing that the steering will stop working and cause me to veer in a dangerous direction.

Steering really bad car pulls both ways on the highway makes weird noise when taking off and accelerating and car randomly dies

When my teenage daughter drove our 2017 Hyundai Elantra, the power steering locked up on her while entering a busy interstate. Thankfully, she did not run into the barrier wall or nobody hit her from behind. Took it into the Hyundai dealership and apparently the torque sensor went out. They want to charge $1800 to fix it. Conveniently for them, it’s not covered under warranty as warranty stopped at 60k miles. The car just rolled over at 61k. As I researched, apparently this is a known issue with Hyundai.

The paint on my vehicles roof is peeling off. I’ve attached 2 photos. One of when in first started and the other is current.

the problem is with the door lock actuator rear driver side and front passenger side, 2 doors!!! they don't open even from inside and out side when the door is locked and unlocked its so dangerous at the accident time or emergency times when the car is in fire and doors don't open from both sides when they are unlocked

I got into a car accident on August 29, 2021. My driver side aid bag never deployed and I found out there was a recall 2 years before I bought the car from the dealership in 2019. I ended up getting stitches on my eyebrow, and my nose needed some but it was to late by the time I received medical attention so they gave me strips and my lip was split open. I have pictures of my car and my face and the side airbags went off but not the steering wheel

The car is losing antifreeze. There is no antifreeze on the ground. From my understanding this has been an ongoing problem with this model of car and it needs to be a recall. I was informed that it’s losing antifreeze due to deficits in the exhaust system.

The vehicle shuts off without warning when idle. First time it occurred I was is a drive through and I started it up after it stalled. Second time it occurred was the following day at a red light, I went to accelerate when the light turned green and the vehicle and stalled out and I had a battery warning, oil warning, and check engine light- I had just had my car serviced a week ago where the oil was changed and the battery was tested. No to mention previously on Saturday 09/11/2021 while I was driving the traction control light came on and the RPMS showed 0 and the MPH showed 0 even though I was driving at around 50mph (in dry conditions) I had to pull off to the shoulder and restart my car. I currently have it at a shop.

The steering wheel tightens up occasionally when making right turns. Also when turning the steering wheel it makes a clicking turning on gravel sound on occasion. No ESP light is on, on the dash cluster. It is without a doubt 2017 Hyundai Elantra have steering problems that need to be address and recalled.

Consumes oil at a fast rate about 1.5 quarts every 1,000 miles. Car burns oil way too fast the dealership and Hyundai do not want to deal with it.

I have a 2017 pearl white Elantra and The paint is peeling off on my hood and my roof. The car is only 4 years old and I just hit above 30000 miles when this issue started. Even a coworker of mine who has the exact same car is having the same issue and her car basically has no paint left. Many people are having this issue and it’s disappointing that Hyundai won’t compensate their customers to get it fixed. Every time my car gets wet it gets worse it’s really ridiculous and looks TERRIBLE. Way too expensive to fix.

My passenger side front strut exploded, drove the shock through the hood. Very dangerous! Just happened, no warning. Schedule to take to dealer to see if covered by warranty. Car has 67,000 miles.

Paint is peeling off, issue has been happening to most pearl white Hyundai Elantra’s

The Driver's side door once locked and unlocked will not open?

The rear passenger side door will not open or close

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while her son was driving approximately 35 mph, the engine seized. The driver detected smoke and oil leaking from the vehicle. The vehicle was pushed into a parking lot. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified however, no further assistance was provided. The contact mentioned the rod punctured the engine.The approximate failure mileage was 72,000.

The brake system continually fails intermintently and is placing the driver and all passengers at risk of injury and or even death. The brake pedal stiffens not allowing pressure to be applied to use brakes. The pedal has to be pressed in aggressivly 5-10 times before finally allowing brake assist to help brake the vehicle. Once pedal begins to activate again it is followed with heavy grinding then finally almost resumes as normal with normal braking. The brake assist system has failed on almost 10 occasions on myself and has been taken in for repairs 4 times and fails to be repaired and appears to not ever be located. The recall regarding the brake booster was fixed, but yet brakes continued to fail after repair. The dealership has since taken it back in for repair and said they located leaking rear back brake pistons and repaired that. I was given car back and the next day experienced brake failure on 2 occasions on the freeway. I immediately gave the vehicle back to the dealer where it is today and they now believe it is the ABS system modular. The dealership continues to take it in but fails to locate the issue causing brake system failure. There have been no warning lamps or other issues that have relation to brake system failure. Since issue appeared first 2 months ago, I have replaced brake pads, brake fluid flush, brake booster recall, back brake pistons, and now ABS modular, and brakes continue to still fail.

When driving on bumpy roads or a transition to a bridge on a freeway the ABS and traction control will fail. There will be the pulse sound of the ABS but no brakes and the brake pedal will go stiff and brakint will take an excessive amount of time. Sometimes letting go of brake pedal and trying again will resolve issue. There have been instances where the ABS, Brake and Traction Control Light have come on and the only way to fix this is to power down the car and restart. Also another issue is rough idle or misfire/check engine light when accelerating. Diagnostics is showing misfiring on cylinder 3.

Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.

Door locks don't actually do what they are supposed to do. I found that out when my friend opened the door as a joke on a residential street a while back. When put into Drive, in motion, the locks flip to signal that they are locked but say if someone were to pull on the handle, it would still open. I checked all four doors, and they behave like this. I then compared it to my other vehicle, which did not act like this. I have yet to bring it up to the attention of my dealership. There were no warning lamps, messages, or other symptoms of the problem prior to the failure.

I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport and I do not put excessive miles on my car, I do not drive hard and I do not beat on my car. Today my father pointed out that one my tires appeared to have "DRY ROT." and he said that tire is dangerous and needs to replaced. Then I told him my other tires also had the same cracking or dry rot on them. I do not know a thing about tires I thought that was normal wear and tear. I told my father I have already replaced two of these tires on my ELANTRA I have owned a year because the garage said the tires were unsafe; I had no idea what "DRY ROT." Now that this "DRYROT" was pointed out to me I realized the other tires I replaced also had that cracking all around the tire and I am going to look for old pictures that will verify this. IN the meantime once again It looks like I am going have to purchase another new tire because of this irregular tire wear . Today I discovered there is a recall on the exact same tires I have on my car; two of which I have already replaced. This recall on the HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tire seems to go by tire size and maybe my tire size is not on that recall but I have the same problem as you can see from my photos as described on the recalled HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 and it is an obvious problem with more than a select few tire sizes. Please look at pictures of my defective tire; I have already replaced two others, on a car that has 38,000 miles on car; and I have always rotated my tires every other change. Given I have already replaced two of these defective HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 tires already, I still have two HANKOOK VENTUS S1 noble 2 one is a size 225/40R18 88W and the other is 225/40ZR18 92W.

At only 88,000 miles my AC compressor went out. It cost around $1000 to replace. While my car was in the shop they mentioned several others were in for AC issues.

The door latch actuator on rear driver side has failed. Door will not open from inside. Have to jerk fast on the outside handle to get open. Has not been looked at but pretty obvious when the kids are trappes in the backseat waiting to be let out.

Passenger door locks won't open door from inside or outside

Rear door locks have both failed. Doors cannot be opened from inside or outside, making this a safety concern. I cannot get my children out of the rear seats except through the window. After searching online I find that this is a common failure.

Rear passenger doors will not open from inside or out .. door will only open if you pound on door by latch several times. Once door is locked and unlocked again it will not open.. dealer states it is a "lock actuator " and is $500 to replace. This is a safety issue. In an accident, no rear passenger would be able to exit vehicle. There are several articles of complaints on Google about this issue.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that the rear passenger's doors failed to open from the inside or outside. The contact had to punch on the door handle to open the doors. The contact called the local dealer and was informed that the lock actuator was likely the cause of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure however, no further assistance was provided. The contact was concerned about driving the vehicle. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.

Rear passenger door will not open when unlocked from inside or outside. It started recently. I feel it is a safety issue if something happen to the car and we could not get out.

I noticed the car losing power (2017 Elantra) took it to my local mechanic and got a misfire code on coil 3. Replaced it and the next day took a long trip to New Jersey, the car stalled at low speed with the CEL on pulled to the side restarted the car and proceeded to drive the rest of the way. I felt unsafe as the engine felt like it was struggling. On the way back I decided to tow it back to NY. I drove it the next day to my mechanic and he said there were no stored codes, he drove it and said he could do nothing. I drove it the next day and the same problem happened, luckily on a side street. Took it back to him and made him drive it around for a 4 day period nothing happened. My son drove it and the same issue happened luckily on a side street. I then took it to the Hyundai dealer and they said they got a misfire code. They replaced the remaining coils, changed the engine coolant and cleaned the fuel injection system. Maybe me wait practically 2 weeks with no loaner. Drove the car and the same issue occurred. Again luckily on a side street. I called my mechanic and he said drive locally and if it happens to call him so he will hook up a scanner to get a code. Right in my neighborhood the same thing happened so I called him and he was unable to get a code, he thought it could be either cam or crankshaft sensor, he tried both and the stall occurred when he was driving, he then changed the MAP sensor and drove it for 30 minutes without an issue. I went away for 5 days and came back and drove the car which seemed fine, but the same problem happened. This is a dangerous problem and feel unsafe driving this car. It has only 46.000 miles on it. I have a case opened with corporate and waiting for them to contact me.

Back passenger door won't open from inside or outside, acting as though it is still locked. This appears to be a common issue with Hyundai's, being a busted actuator that the company will not assist with and costs an average of $1000 to fix. It is a major safety issue as someone could get stuck in the back seat in an emergency. Since it happens on average around 47000 miles, it is just outside of warranty for most people, as well. It adds another shady layer that impacts the consumer.

**NON SAFETY ISSUE** Purchased my 2017 Hyundai Elantra SE (Pearl White) used back in August of 2019 with around 30,000 miles on it. No issues at all. After one year back in summer of 2020 I got out my car and noticed a chunk of paint missing from my roof (around the size of half a football). I was immediately concerned. I contacted the dealer I got it from, they advised me to contact Hyundai so I contacted my local Hyundai dealer and they told me I was over the 30,000 mile paint warranty, nothing could be done but they could get me an estimate. I did some research, found tons of articles with tons of people having the same issue, same location on same vehicle, same color. I also found a article about a lawsuit filed against Hyundai for Elantra's year 2009-2016 for paint issue. I saw Hyundai won based off the fact they offer a 30,000 mile paint warranty. This scared me away from trying to pursue Hyundai so I waited a bit and hoped to see if a recall would be issued. Then maybe 4 months ago I went to wash my car and after hitting it with water a softball size chunk of paint chipped off my driver door. I then contacted Hyundai and asked that something be done. Hyundai's body shop wrote an estimate and submitted it to Hyundai. It was an over priced estimate in my opinion so I took it to my local (and well respected) body shop and they wrote me an estimate for exactly half the cost. Hyundai then responded they would cover half the cost. But only at a Hyundai body shop. Either shop I take it to I would owe $1,000 out of my pocket. Unacceptable to me and a lot of money for me. Both shops stated it was a manufacturing defect and I believe the manufacturer should cover the costs. I tried contacting Hyundai's corporate line and they advised me a rep would call me to speak to me about their decision. It has been a month now and no response still. I don't know what to do or who to have help. The car is all but 4 years old and the paint is getting worse daily. I need help.

Right front suspension strut mount failed. This allowed the front strut to be come disconnected from the strut mount. The strut is free to to become disconneted from the cars frame. In my case the strut has traveled up through the strut mount and through the trim cover and impacting the inside of the cars engine compartment hood. Currently the strut is resting on the lower side of the strut mount. Only the weight of the car is keeping the strut inside the coil. This places the driver and occupants at risk of the strut over travaling . It also puts the mechanic at risk, because the coil spring is not being retained by the strut mount plate. The car can be inspected. I have not had the problem confirmed, The first indication of the problem was a audible rattle from the right front suspension

PAINT PEELING

Drivers rear door will not open from the outside or inside. Door locks and unlocks fine, but the door mechanism will not release the door to allow it to open

We recently took the 2017 Hyundai Elantra in for unrelated repairs and found that the driver’s side rear door could not be opened from either the inside or the outside. The shop that was doing the repairs tried calling the local Hyundai dealer to see if they could offer some assistance in regards to this unusual situation, but they would not return their calls. In order to finish the repairs we were having done, they needed to have the door open. Through research of their own, they found a way to finally get the door free and ended up having to replace the rear door latch. We ended up paying over $500 to have it fixed. The mileage on the car is just over 60,000 and is not covered under warranty anymore. Considering the rear doors are rarely used in this vehicle, we were shocked to see that there were problems with such little use over a short time. After doing further research on this problem, we found that there are many Hyundai owners that have been having this similar issue on all of the passenger doors. It scares me to think that this might happen in the future when we won’t be as lucky if there's an accident and have to exit the car quickly. I would hope that it can be seen that this is a very real safety issue and would consider a Safety Recall or Service Campaign for this problem.

The passenger side rear door will not open. The door locks and unlocks fine, but it refuses to open. The door handles both feel as though there is no tension when they're pulled and the door does not move. The car has not been involved in an accident and the rear doors did not receive a large amount of use (not daily used to carry backseat passengers). This is an extreme safety issue as we have recently had to use the vehicle to transport two small children (7 and 4 years old).

Driver side rear door will not open from inside or outside this is a safety concern as I have children if any accident happens, they or no one in the seat has access to leave vehicle during an emergency.

The door locks on my Hyundai are not working properly. They do not open from the outside or inside, even though the lock buttons are operational and the key fob is working properly. It is a safety risk that they do not open properly in case of an accident or fire. I've read websites on several internet boards that this is a recurring issue with Hyundai vehicles and this poses a very big risk for owners. The body shop technician I took the vehicle to shared the same concerns about the faulty issues from Hyundai and is still working to resolve the issue part by part. The little CLS stopped working almost suddenly, with them opening from the outside after several attempts, to then not opening at all from the outside, to then not opening from the inside or outside. There is no open recall for this issue even though several individuals have reported and is a known defect.

The rear door opening mechanism fails and prevents the door from opening from either inside the car or outside. It starts off as being inconsistent then full on completely fails.

When driving around 35 mph my vehicle had a loss of power suddenly shut off. It would not start again... I have 74k miles and the check engine light was not illuminated prior to this incident. I was merging onto a street and the loss of power had left me stranded and in danger near other cars. Vehicle was maintained well and there was no prior indications that there would be an issue. Many other 2017 Hyundai Elantra owners are having these issues and are being forced to repair their engines at a high cost.

I bought the car 3 years ago and during the first year I had to replace an engine coil, a few months later Inhad to replace the other 5. On July 3rd I was driving on the highway with my family and while I was stopped in traffic I heard a slight whine and then a knocking sound coming from the engine. I then started driving again and felt the steering wheel lock up and the gas tighten up and I realized the car had shut off. I had to immediately veer off the highway to avoid hitting somebody and noticed that the electronics were working. I then restarted the car and drove home through local backroads where the car kept shutting off intermittantly. I then took my car to a mechanic who notified me there was sludge in the engine and he had 3 to 4 other customers he recently has seen this happen to in regards to Hyundai Elantra’s. I tried to contact the dealership who accused me of not taking care of my vehicle. I currently have an ope case with Hyundai corporate. From what I’ve seen online Hyundai is aware of these engine issues about piston knock and wngine sludge due to piston issues yet has not offered a recall or any type of customer assistance. The engine failure could have not only grievously injured my family but any other drivers I may have hit or been hit by due to this known engine issue.

Had multiple issues with being unable to open different doors. At this point it has happened to 3 or the 4 doors throughout time. Door will lock and unlock but am unable to open from inside or outside. I had 2 replaced under warranty, most recent one is no longer covered. It seems like a very big safety problem if people may be unable to exit the car in an emergency.

On 6/22/21 I took my vehicle in to the dealer for a warranty repair. There was a misfire on the Number 3 engine coil. My vehicle was returned and one day later I had the same warning light go off on my car. I returned to the dealer on 6/30/21 and there they replaced the Number 2 engine coil. The dealership told me that previously Hyundai would replace all 4 coils because it is a known issue, however because of cost they began only replacing them as they went bad. He said "they will all go bad, it's just a matter of if they will still be under warranty" In my opinion, Hyundai should still be replacing all coils if it is a known issue. My car was nut running correctly and would not fully accelerate. This could definitely be a safety hazard.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while starting the vehicle, there was an abnormal sound coming from the engine compartment. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed and diagnosed but not repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 42,803.

Engine make a lot of noise when I started, I have a situation where the engine stall and have to come to an stop, I bought the car about 2 years ago I took to the mechanic and I been told that engine has a problem and needs to be replaced staying that he has seen this problems on several vehicles same as mine with the same kind of engine, I took to the dealer and they told me the same thing but they said they can do anything about it. I don't know what to do with something like this its practically a brand new car, I also contact manufacturer with no luck.

Driving with no signs or dash lights came on to warning me of any issues. Car started acting like it was stalling out one morning parking it at work. Went to leave work had a very slight almost not noticeable knock sound went I started up. Car was acting like it was running harder then usually. Continued home and my car started seizing up and caused my car to stall completely out while driving on the interstate. I was a mile from home, started my car back up and continued to get somewhere safely and out of danger of the interstate. It stalled out multiple times before reaching my driveway. By then my car seized up and was making a loud knocking sound. I push the car into the garage and check the oil and there was no indication of any oil on my dip stick. Went ahead gave my car an oil change earlier then scheduled. 1.5 quarts of oil only came out and was low almost 4 quarts. No signs of leaking or using oil. No indication dash lights came on to warning me of this issue. With in 3000 mileage of my last oil change, I lost almost 4 quart of oil, no signs or lights and now I have a blown motor in my 5 year old car. This is a huge saftey concern of my, with no indication I had an issue and was stalling out on the interstate/while driving to reach a safe place to look at my car.

So my car has been randomly started doing this sputtering like I'm getting ready to run out of gas and feels like the car is going to shut off. Well I had a full tank of gas so I thought maybe the sparks plugs. Had them changed along with my oil. That does not seem to be the problem so once I get where I'm going and turn the car off it seems to not do it. But it will randomly happen. About every week or two and I don't know what the problem is. When I'm driving on the interstate and it happens I freak out thinking my car is going to shut off and I start to lose speed and everything and the OBD reader states that it is a misfire but that's not the case when I have brand new spark plugs in

Both driver and passenger rear doors will not open from either the inside or outside. The only way to open is to bang just below the door handle repeatedly from the outside and sometimes the door will open. My fiance has only been able to get our children out once. This seems to be a common occurrence via blogs online. This is a terrible safety hazard for my children God forbid of a crash or fire and I couldn't get my children out. There should be no questions asked about recalling a faulty door that could save children's lives.

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving 50 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was restarted however, the failure persisted until the contact arrived at her residence. The contact stated that she replaced the battery, air filter, and added coolant to the reservoir. The contact called and made the local dealer aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

Paint peeling off roof of car.

There was a recall on 3/28/2017 on the 2017 hyundai Elantra for a power steering (eps motor) problem. Recall 161 I recently bought a 2017 Hyundai Elantra used. It showed no outstanding unrepaired recalls on the vin number check. However without realizing there was a former steering recall on my car i have been noticing that my car when steering to the right catches. I mostly experience this at higher speeds and while driving on the highway when changing lanes. As if it snagged on something or i have no control for a microsecond. Its happens and just as quickly goes away when i bring the steering wheel back to the left.I am wondering if the march 2017 recall and my current problem are related. Is there any way of determining if my car was under that recall and whether it was repaired or not. When recall notices on a particular car/vin number are repaired does that info get entered into a national data base . It seems very coincidental to say the least that i am experience a steering anomaly and i now find out there was a past recall for a problem involving steering. Yet i can't seem to determine if my car was repaired for such a recall in the past

Paint. The white paint has begun cracking and peeling on the hood and roof. There was no damage to these areas and it has always been garage kept. The paint is defective. It started happening almost over night and is spreading quickly. This is unsightly, will lead to corrosion, and is completely unacceptable for a modern vehicle or this age.

The vehicle will just shut off while driving. I seen that other people with the same make and model is having the same issue. Have had the car in the dealership shop a number of times and they always say they do not know way it is shutting off and two or three days later they say they found the problem and it is fixed. But when I pick it up and drive least then five miles it shuts off. I have almost been ran into because the car have shut off while making a turn. I have even heard some people say they have been in accidents because of this issue. Something really need to be done about this model

Unknown. Car randomly wasn’t a to shut off and check engine light comes on only when gas pedal is pressed. Had taken to dealership to get fixed but it still happens

While unlocked 3 doors do not open from outside and one of the 3 occasionally won't open from the inside as well.

Rear Passenger door will not open from the inside or out. Child safety lock is not engaged. It appears to be a common safety issue reported over the internet.

Issue 1: The brakes are locking up when used at a high rate of speed (high-ways/interstate). When braking and running over a slight bump in the road such as where the road has buckled due to heat or due to road repair work (or other larger bumps), the anti-lock brake system will lock up the tires which will cause the car to continue traveling at a high rate of speed without slowing effectively. It has almost caused several collisions by failing to brake in time to avoid hitting the car in front of it without switching lanes. Luckily, no cars have hit the Elantra when we have had to swerve last minute to avoid a crash that would normally be avoided. This has happened on the interstate in traffic and sudden stops by cars in front of us. It has also happened on off ramps while gradually slowing the vehicle to a stop. This could cause substantial injury or death to anyone in the car. I have taken this car to the dealership and multiple car repair shops. They have not been able to determine the cause or fix the issue. There are no warnings on the car. The first few times this happened the antilock brake light came on. Issue 2: The back passenger door will not open when using the door latch from the inside or the outside of the car. The car lock functions as normal and can be heard locking and unlocking. The door will not open to be able to be fixed. Hyundai will not repair the issue under the warranty, and has quoted a high sum to fix the issue. The technician said he would have to brake the door in order to fix the issue. Other car repair shops have confirmed this is a common problem with Hyundai vehicles. The other repair shops have not been able to open the door to fix the issue. There is not a recall on the door mechanism. This has not caused any damage or injury to a person as of yet, but we have not felt comfortable driving anyone in the Elantra as the door would not open in an emergency to allow someone to get out of the car.

The driver side doesn't not open from outside.

The rear passenger door on my 2017 Hyundai Elantra will not open. I can lock and unlock the door with the remote but it will not open using both the inside and outside door handle. In researching this issue on the internet, it seems to be a very common problem with Hyundai cars from 2016-2018. I strongly believe this needs to be a recall by the manufacturer as it is a serious safety issue to not be able to open the doors.

My 2017 Hyundai Elantra paint is peeling off the hood and the top of the car.

WHILE THIS MAY NOT BE A SAFETY ISSUE, THE PAINT IS PEELING ON THE HOOD OF THE CAR. THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PLACES WHERE THE PAINT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL ON THE HOOD, AS WELL. THERE IS ONE PLACE ON THE ROOF OF THE CAR THAT IS BEGINNING TO PEEL. I KNOW THAT THERE HAVE BEEN OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE PAINT CHIPPING ON THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, SO THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT CALLED ON BEHALF OF HIS DAUGHTER WHO OWNED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 20 MPH AND COMING TO A STOP, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STEW HANSEN HYUNDAI (11344 HICKMAN RD, CLIVE, IA 50325) WHO REPLACED THE BATTERY AND REPROGRAMMED THE ECU. THE FAILURE RECURRED WITH THE VEHICLE HESITATING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED A CASE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NO LONGER OPENS FROM EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I DISCOVERED THE ISSUE WHILE TRYING TO UNLOAD MY CAR AFTER A TRIP TO THE STORE. IT WAS WORKING IN THE MORNING AND WHEN I RETURNED HOME AND PARKED, THE DOOR HANDLE NO LONGER WORKED. THE DOOR WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK BUT THE HANDLE MECHANISM ITSELF IS FAULTY. AFTER DOING RESEARCH TO TRY TO FIX THE PROBLEM MYSELF I'VE DISCOVERED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE HYUNDAI ELANTRA AND IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN AS I CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR AT ALL WHEN TRANSPORTING PASSENGERS OR ANIMALS IN MY BACK SEAT. THIS HAS ALSO HAPPENED PREVIOUSLY TO THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR AND HAD TO BE REPAIRED. SINCE THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THIS HAS HAPPENED TO I AM WORRIED THAT IT WILL HAPPEN AT ANY TIME TO THE DRIVER DOOR. I HAVE AN APPOINTMENT SCHEDULED FOR AN ESTIMATE ON THE COST OF REPAIR WITH THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW THAT I EXPECT WILL RUN ABOUT $1500 BASED ON MY RESEARCH.

PISTON ROD BEARINGS AND MAIN CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS. ACCORDING TO DEALERSHIP THE BEARINGS ARE BAD EVEN THOUGH I HAD OIL CHANGED AT DEALERSHIP EVERY 5000 MILE DURING THE FIRST YR OF OWNERSHIP AND OIL CHANGED EVERY 3000 MILES AFTER THAT.

A FEW MONTHS AFTER GETTING THE CAR THE ENGINE KEPT STALLING THE ENGINE LIGHT WOULD ONLY TURN ON AFTER STALLING EACH TIME I HAVE BROUGHT IT TO MULTIPLE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIPS THEY KEEP SAYING IT'S JUST A SPARK PLUG ISSUE. IT'S FRUSTRATING SINCE ONCE OFF THE LOT A WEEK LATER IT'S RANDOMLY STALLING AGAIN.THIS NEVER FIXED THE ISSUE. THE CAR HAS STALLED BOTH ON ROADS, ROUNDABOUTS AND FREEWAYS CAUSING ME TO NEARLY BE IN CRASHES MULTIPLE TIMES, I DO NOT FEEL SAFE DRIVING THIS CAR. THE CAR IS IN MOTION AND THE ENGINE JUST STOPS THE CAR STALLS AND THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAD BEEN ABLE TO START IT AND GET IT MOVING IT'S RANDOM WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS.TODAY I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER CAR REPAIR CENTER THEY SAID THE ENGINE HAD A TON OF METAL PARTICLES AND CHUNKS, LIKE THE ENGINES ON THE 2014 ELANTRA'S. THEY SUGGESTED I FILE A REPORT TO THE NHTSA AND BRING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AS THERE IS NO WAY A ENGINE OR PISTON SHOULD LOOK THIS BAD AND THAT THE METAL PIECES LOOK LIKE THEY ARE FROM THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. I'M NOT SURE WHY THE DEALERSHIPS NEVER CHECKED THE ENGINE COMPLETELY REGARDING THIS ISSUE THEY COULD HAVE SEEN THE METAL FRAGMENTS EARLIER. I'M WORRIED THAT I WON'T BE LUCKY ON THE ROAD NEXT TIME THE ENGINE STALLS AND I'M WORRIED ABOUT OTHERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.I'M WORRIED ABOUT MY SAFETY AND OTHERS WHEN DRIVING. PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT ME REGARDING MORE INFORMATION.

IN ALL EVENTS, THE DRIVER SIDE BACK-SEAT DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN FROM EITHER THE INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE CAR. THE DRIVER DOOR ALSO HAS TROUBLE OPENING AND YOU HAVE TO LEAN ON THE DOOR FIRST BEFORE IT WILL OPEN. THESE POSE SIGNIFICANT SAFETY THREATS IN THE EVENT OF HAVING TO QUICKLY LEAVE THE CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. PASSENGERS IN THE BACK WILL BOTH HAVE TO LEAVE THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IF SOMETHING WERE TO HAPPEN. THIS IS ALSO A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH THIS SPECIFIC MODEL OF CAR.

37K MILES. IT STARTED WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING ROUGHLY, SO WE REPLACED A COIL OURSELVES. SEEMED TO FIX THE ISSUE BUT A WEEK LATER THERE WAS AN INTERMITTENT NOISE FROM THE ENGINE WHICH SOUNDED LIKE A VERY SMALL EXHAUST LEAK (LIKE PFFFFFT). OCCASIONALLY, ALSO INTERMITTENT, THE ENGINE WOULD MAKE A VERY LOUD CLANKY NOISE. CAR SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING <5 MPH. OUR MECHANIC SAID THE CODE WAS FOR THE 2ND COIL, SO WE REPLACED ALL 4 & SPARK PLUGS - JUST TO BE SAFE. TWO DAYS LATER, THE SAME NOISE ISSUES RETURNED AND THE CAR SHUT OFF TWICE WHILE DRIVING IN A WELL-TRAFFICKED DOWNTOWN AREA (5-10 MPH). IT DID NOT MAKE NOISE OR STALL WHILE IDLING. WE HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE SAME MECHANIC, NO CODES THIS TIME. HE REPLICATED THE ISSUES BY LETTING THE CAR IDLE FOR AN HOUR, THEN DRIVING IT 5-10 MILES, IT MADE NOISES AND STALLED WHILE GOING UP A VERY SLIGHT INCLINE AT <5 MPH. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING TO DO WITH A LOSS OF OIL PRESSURE SENDING THE ENGINE OUT OF TIME, AND THE LOUD NOISE IS THE CRANKSHAFT. I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CARS AND AM JUST REPEATING WHAT WAS TOLD TO ME. AT THIS TIME HE DRAINED SOME OIL AND FOUND METAL SHAVINGS. HE SAID HE COULD LOOK INTO THE PROBLEM BUT HE WOULD HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND PROBABLY TAKE IT APART. HE DIDN'T WANT US TO WASTE MONEY TRYING TO DIAGNOSE WHAT SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE AND A BLOWN ENGINE. ALSO NOTED THAT THERE ARE FEW, IF ANY REPLACEMENT ENGINES OUT THERE. IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, I'VE HAD A TIRE SENSOR MALFUNCTION, THE RADIO/MEDIA SCREEN GO BLANK MULTIPLE TIMES, AND THE PASSENGER SEATBELT NOTIFICATION GOES OFF EVEN WHEN IT'S JUST MY CELL PHONE AND WALLET ON THE SEAT. ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL ISSUES SELF-RESOLVED SO I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TIME TO GET TOO ANNOYED BEFORE THIS MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE. THREE WEEKS FROM THE FIRST NOISE UNTIL THIS POINT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 46 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER AND STALLED WITH THE OIL AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING UPHILL. ADDITIONALLY, THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, AND WAS EXPERIENCED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER RESTARTING THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE REGAINED NORMAL FUNCTIONALITY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT YET REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

WHILE DRIVING THE PASSENGER SEATBELT ALARM GOES OFF AND NOBODY IS IN THE SEAT. THIS HAPPENS RANDOMLY FOR NO REASON.CONTINUES TO DING UNTIL BUCKLED. AIR BAG ENGAGES. OTHER TIMES IT LETS ME KNOW THAT THE PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF WHEN EMPTY.

CAR WAS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY, PRIOR TO A TRIP. A PASSENGER WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE RIGHT REAR DOOR WITH THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE HANDLE. THE INSIDE LOCKING CONTROL MOVED NORMALLY, BOTH MANUALLY AND WITH ELECTRICAL LOCK CONTROL, BUT I STILL CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR IN ANY WAY. THIS IS SAFETY RELATED AS THE FAILED DOOR WOULD PREVENT EGRESS IN AN EMERGENCY.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CONSUMER STATED THAT BOTH REAR DOORS HAVE MALFUNCTIONED. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE REAR DOORS DO NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR THE INSIDE. *JS

REAR RIGHT DOOR NOT UNLOCKING FROM EITHER OUTSIDE.

DRIVER SIDE DOOR PERIODICALLY WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUT. JUST STARTED HAPPENING ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO. THOUGHT IT WAS MY KEY FOB DYING HOWEVER I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND IT STILL IS CAUSING THE SAME ISSUE.

BACK LEFT DOOR DOESN'T OPEN DANGEROUS IN CASE OF EMERGENCY AC COMPRESSOR MELTED REPLACED AND NOW IT'S MAKING NOISES STRUTS BOLTS CAME LOOSE BRAKES AND SHAKING WHOLE CAR

YOU CAN NOT OPEN THE REAR DOORS. BY THE HANDLES INSIDE OR OUT. SOMETIME THEY WILL OPEN IF YOU WIGGLE THE OUTSIDE HANDLE ALOT OF TIME. THE INSIDE ACTS LIKE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK IS ON. THE CHILD SAFETY NOT ON. IF AN EMERGENCY HAPPENS THE PEOPLE SITTING IN THE REAR CAN NOT GET OUT. THIS STARTED IN 2020 ON DRIVER PASSENGER FIRST AS OF TODAY 3/30/2021. THE REAR PASSENGER WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL.

THEIR DRIVER'S AND REAR DOOR LOCKS SUDDENLY START TO MALFUNCTION. THE REAR DOORS DON'T OPEN ANYMORE, THE REMOTE CONTROL IS WORKING APPARENTLY BUT I CAN'T OPEN THE DOOR EVEN MANUALLY FROM INSIDE. THE DRIVER LOCK DOOR NEEDS TO OPERATE MORE THAN 3 TIMES TO OPEN THE DOOR. I ALMOST NEVER USE THE REAR DOORS BECAUSE I AM SINGLE.*DT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT IMMEDIATELY STOP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO REPLACED THE BRAKE PADS HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE LOCAL DEALER - GLENDALE HYUNDAI LOCATED AT 411 S BRAND BLVD, GLENDALE, CA 91204 AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, NO ASSISTANCE WAS OFFERED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V063000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC). THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD EXPERIENCED THE FAILURE LISTED IN THE RECALL. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,000.

I HAVE TO CHANGE OUT MY LIGHTS EVERY 3 MONTHS. IT'S BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE FOR OVER 2 YEARS.

THE BACK DOOR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF MY VEHICLE SUDDENLY STOPPED OPENING. THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED BUT IT WONT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE NOR THE OUTSIDE. I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS IS A RAMPANT ISSUE ON THIS VEHICLE. IT IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AS MY TODDLER CANNOT GET OUT OF THE CAR.

I HAVE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES NOW OF MY DOORS EITHER FAILING TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE AND HAVING TO BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE, OR BEING JAMMED ALTOGETHER AND UNABLE TO OPEN. THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE BEGAN HAPPENING ABOUT A WEEK AGO TO MY DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR, ALTHOUGH I BELIEVE ALL 4 DOORS HAVE BEEN AFFECTED. I HAVE ALL DOCUMENTATION AND RECEIPTS ON FILE, ALTHOUGH I AM UNABLE TO UPLOAD IT AT THIS TIME.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. LOCK MECHANISM OPENS AND CLOSES WITH FOB OR DOOR UNLOCK BUTTON BUT DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL.

I AM 2ND OWNER OF VEHICLE (BOUGHT WITH 36252 MILES) AROUND 76XXX VEHICLE STARTING MAKING TICKING NOISES I BROUGHT INTO CARMAX WHERE I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND WENT ON MY WAY. 2 DAYS LATER THE CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. BROUGHT IT BACK CARMAX AGAIN STATES NOTHING WRONG. THE CAR IS CONSTANTLY SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING LONG DISTANCE. AT 90525 MY CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON A BRIDGE BROUGHT IT INTO HYUNDAI WERE THEY STATED I NEEDED A NEW MOTOR BUT IT WASNT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO "SLUDGE" I LIVE IN FL ITS HOT AND I LIVE DOWN A 3 MILE BACKROAD THAT WILL CAUSE BUILD UP ACCORDING TO RESEARCH. HYUNDAI WONT HELP AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY FOR MY KIDS NOW IM STUCK MAKING PAYMENTS ON A CAR THAT CANT BE DRIVEN AND IM 2000 IN RENTAL CAR FEES. AND DONT HAVE THE BEST CREDIT TO GET ANOTHER CAR. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ASAP AS I SEE THIS COMPLAINT MULTIPLE TIMES

LEFT REAR DOOR LATCH WON'T ENGAGE TO OPEN DOOR. THIS IS THE SECOND DOOR THAT I AM HAVING TO HAVE FIXED ON A VEHICLE THAT IS 4 YEARS OLD WITH THIS DOOR RARELY BEING USED AS I AM USUALLY THE ONLY ONE IN THE VEHICLE.

HYUNDAI AVOIDS TAKING CARE OF THEIR CARS BY SENDING OUT GENERAL STATEMENTS FOR TECHS TO "FIX" THESE ISSUES BUT THEY NEVER DO THEY SAY I DIDNT HEAR IT WHEN BROUGHT IN MULITPLE SUSPENSION ELECTRICAL ISSUES MY HUSBANDS 2019 HYUNDAI ELETRICAL GOING OUT. THE ENGINE ISSUE ALL THEY DID WAS SAY DIDNT DO IT FOR ME. THEY NEED TO REPLACE ALL THESE KNOWN ISSUES IT IS BRAKING DOWN THE WHOLE VEHICHLE FOR BOTH OF US. I BELIEVE HYUNDAI IS NEGLIGENT IN WORRYING ABOUT THE COST OF AFULL RECALL SO THEY DENY ANYTHING.I HAVE VIDEOS DOCUMENTS, MY CAR WENT FROM RED GAS TO GREEN RANDOM CLICKS DETERIORATION. MY HUBSANDS CAR IS THE ONLY OWNER ENGINE SHUDDERS RANDOMLY THEY DO A FAKE IINVESTIGATION. HYUNDAI DOES NOT CARE IF YOU DIE.

THE DRIVER'S DOOR ONLY OPENS ABOUT 10% OF THE TIME FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT OPENS FINE FROM THE INSIDE. I USUALLY HAVE TO GET IN THE PASSENGER'S SIDE AND OPEN THE DRIVER'S DOOR FROM THE INSIDE TO GET IN THE CAR.

3 OF 4 DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE AND/OR OUTSIDE. ONLY DRIVER SIDE DOOR NOW OPENS.

PAINT FLAKING WITHOUT ANY IMPACT.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 ELANTRA SE 2.0 IN APRIL OF 2020 MY CAR KEEPS STALLING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND WHEN I MAKE TURNS LEFT OR RIGHT AT LOW SPEEDS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE AND ALSO ENGINE NOISES AND SHAKES REAL BAD SOMETIMES AS WELL I STILL OWE 20000 FOR THIS LEMON HYUNDAI SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AS ITS BEEN A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR YEARS FROM WHAT I READ VERY DANGEROUS THIS HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS AND EXPRESSWAY

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BEGAN TO SHAKE AND REFUSED TO SHIFT ABOVE 40MPHS ON A ROAD POSTED 45. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE RMP GAUGE SHOW THAT IT WAS STUCK AT 2RMPS. I SLOWED THE VEHICLE AND TURN ON MY FLASHERS AND IN MY TRAVELING TO A SAFE PULL OFF LOCATION. THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, THE SHAKING STOPPED, AND THE CAR RESUME A NORMAL SHIFTING PATTERN. THE VERY NEXT DAY WHILE TRAVELING IN THE CAR THE SAME THING OCCURRED. I EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM WHEN ARRIVED AT HYUNDAI AND WHILE IDLING AND WAITING TO THE CAR PERSON TO CHECK ME IN. THE CAR BEGAN TO DO SHORT SHUDDERS; THIS WAS DIRECTLY WITNESSED BY A CAR SERVICE EMPLOYEE. THE 2ND CYLINDER IGNITION COIL WAS REPLACED. IN MY SECOND VISIT I WAS SURE OF WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE I HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME CAR SYMPTOMS SEVERAL MONTHS EARLIER. HERE IS THE PROBLEM THIS WAS SECOND CYLINDER I HAVE HAD TO HAVE REPLACED IN ABOUT 3000 MILES AND SEVERAL MONTHS; MY CAR ONLY HAS 25,0000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE REPAIR FORM IT STATES ECU UPGRADE.

SLUGGISH, SHAKY AND NOT ACCELERATION ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON INTERMEDIATELY. CODE CAME UP P0301. CHANGED SPARK PLUGS, SENSOR, INCLINED THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER TWO TIMES. STILL THE PROBLEM PERSISTS. TOOK TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP THEY SAID ONE OF FOUR COIL PACKS WAS GOING OUT. THE PROBLEM WAS INTERMITTENT AND THE LIGHT FOR THE ENGINE WAS NOT ON. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THE ENGINE LIGHT HAD TO BE ON TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THEN I FOUND OUT THE AGENT COIL PACKS HAD AN OLDER STYLE AND THEY WANTED ME TO BUY THEIR NEWER STYLE THE PART NUMBER IS 27300 - 2E601. THEY WANTED $700 TO PUT IN THE NEWER STYLE COIL PACKS. THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE A RECALL SINCE MY CAR WAS ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WHEN THE PROBLEM STARTED.

I HAD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON AND IT WAS RELATED TO THE HEATER CORE OR SOMETHING OF THAT NATURE, WHEN I STOPPED TO HAVE A PARTS STORE RUN THE CODE. THEY ASKED ME IF IT WAS OVERHEATING, I TOLD THEM NO. ABOUT A MONTH LATER THE WEATHER STARTED GETTING COLD AND WHEN I WENT TO DEFROST MY WINDOWS THERE WAS ONLY COLD AIR BLOWING OUT WHEN THE CAR WAS WARMED UP. AS I STARTED DRIVING I WOULD GET WARM AIR BUT AS SOON AS I STOPPED COLD AIR BLEW AGAIN. I TOOK IN INTO HYUNDAI THE FLUSHED THE COOLANT SYSTEM AND CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT I GOT IT BACK AND THE SAME THING WAS HAPPENING, TOOK IT BACK THEY THEN REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, GOT IT BACK SAME THING, TOOK IT BACK AGAIN THEY CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT AGIAN, STILL DIDN'T FIX IT, SAME THING WAS STILL HAPPENING, I AM NOT WAITING FOR THEM TO GET A SPECIAL PART TO APPARENTLY FLASH THE SYSTEM AGIAN, BUT REMOVING AIR BUBBLES. I HAVE LITTLE FAITH IT WILL FIX IT SINCE IT DIDN'T WORK THE FIRST TIME.

WE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH OUR 2017 ELANTRA. DOOR LOCK OPERATES JUST FINE BUT THE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY HAZARD AS WE HAVE OUR KIDS OUT IN THE BACK AND NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET THEM OUT QUICKLY

I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND THEY STATED THAT THE BALL JOINT ARE LOOSE AND STRUTS/SHOCKS ARE CIRCLE ON THE INSPECTION FORM. I STILL HAVE MY WARRANTY ON THE VEHICLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 2 MPH AND WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED NO WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER PALM SPRINGS HYUNDAI (3919 E PALM CANYON DR SUITE A, PALM SPRINGS, CA 92264, (760) 202-8888) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH NEEDING THE BRAKE CIRCUIT ERROR SWITCH TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS BEEN REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,646.

DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE ABOUT 75 MPH. OCCUPANTS WERE A DRIVER AND FRONT SEAT PASSENGER. BOTH WHERE BOTH BUCKLED IN. DRIVER REPORTED THAT THE INTERIOR LIGHT SUDDENLY CAME ON AND THEY STARTED TO SLOW DOWN AS THEY WERE NOT SURE WHY INTERIOR LIGHT WOULD COME ON WHEN PASSENGER LOOKED AND NOTICED THEIR PASSENGER DOOR WAS OPEN ABOUT 10 INCHES. THE PASSENGER GRABBED DOOR AND PULLED IT SHUT. THE INTERIOR LIGHT SHUT OFF. THEY REPORTED THAT PRIOR TO THIS THEY HEARD NO ALARM BELLS, HEARD NO ROAD OR AIR NOISE AND THE INTERIOR LIGHT WAS OFF. THE PASSENGER WAS SITTING FACING FORWARD WITH ARMS CROSSED NOT TOUCHING THE DOOR.

REAR DRIVER PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN INSIDE OUTSIDE. IT WORKED FINE, THEN I LOCKED IT AND WENT INTO WORK AND NOW IT WON'T OPEN AT ALL. CHILD LOCK.WAS IN USE AND I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO GET IT TO OPEN. MILEAGE 78,500

UNABLE TO OPEN DRIVERS FRONT DOOR WITHOUT TRYING AT LEAST 4 TIMES. THIS IS ONLY ONCE IT IS IN THE LOCK POSITION AND I UNLOCK IT. LIGHTS IN AUTO POSITION RANDOMLY GO ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING

BACK DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. CALLED DEALERSHIP AND SAID THERE IS NO WARRANTY TO COVER HAVING THEM FIXED AND IT WILL BE OVER $1000 TO HAVE THE PROBLEM CORRECTED. DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE CAR SHUT OFF AND STARTED SMOKING. IT SAYS THE CAR IS ON AND RUNNING BUT IT IS NOT

THE DOOR LATCHES BREAK AND THE DOOR CAN NOT BE OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS THE THIRD DOOR LATCH THAT BROKE ON THIS VEHICLE IN THE PAST YEAR.

HEADLIGHT BULB CONTINUES TO BURN OUT AND BULB WIRING MELTED FOR SOME REASON.

COOLANT LEVEL IS ON FULL BUT THE HEAT DOES NOT WORK. THE THERMOSTAT IS ON H, WHICH MEANS THE CAR IS OVERHEATING. NO WARNING SYMBOLS ARE APPEARING ON THE DASHBOARD. I COULD BE DRIVING ON A CITY STREET THE CAR THERMOSTAT INDICATES THE CAR IS OVERHEATING.

THE CAR STARTED TURNING OFF WHILE DRIVING THE CAR, NOT MAKING A SOUND . THIS STATED WHEN BH THE CAR MADE 70,000 MILES WITH WARNING,IT WILL TURN OF RIGHT A STOP AND WHILE DRIVING , THE PROBLEM STARTED IN JUNE 2020, THE EXTENDED WARRANTY WILL NOT HONOR THE CLAIM I TOOK MY CAR TO HYUNDAI AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TRYING TO FIND WHAT WRONG. HYUNDAI STATED IT IS ENGINE FAILURE, AND I MAKING PAYMENTS ON THE CAR.

THE CAR HAS BEEN STALLING SINCE LAST FEBRUARY, MOSTLY DURING TURNS, AND WHILE DEACCELERATING. SOMETIMES IT IDLES ROUGH AND STALLS AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS. I TOOK IT TO MY DEALER BACK THEN, AND THEY TOLD ME THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY METAL SHAVINGS FROM THE ENGINE PLUGGING THE VALVE THAT REGULATES FUEL. I HAD PERFORMED REGULAR OIL CHANGES AND THE DEALER BELIEVED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE DEALER CONTACTED HYUNDAI, AND HYUNDAI REFUSED TO REMEDY THE DEFECT. THE PROBLEM TEMPORARILY GOES AWAY IF I GET AN OIL SYSTEM FLUSH, WHICH I HAVE BEEN DOING FREQUENTLY. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH, THE CAR BEGINS STALLING AGAIN, PRESUMEABLY BECAUSE THE SHAVINGS ARE PLUGGING THE VALVE AGAIN. THE CAR HAS BECOME DIFFICULT TO START. THIS MORNING IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL.

THE DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR DOOR NOT OPEN IT JUST STOPPED OPENING. I CAN NOT UNLOCK IT AT ALL. I WAN COMING OUT OF A STORE WITH MY KIDS AND THEY COULD NOT GET IN. THE DRIVER SIDE WAS ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGE IN SEPTEMBER. AND NOT IN DECEMBER THE PASSENGER SIDE.

THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE IF THE DOOR HAS BEEN LOCKED. IF THE DOOR REMAINS UNLOCKED THE DOOR WILL OPEN FROM THE EXTERIOR FINE, BUT AFTER BEING LOCKED THE DOOR WILL ONLY OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. OTHERS HAVE POSTED ONLINE REGARDING THE SAME ISSUE.

HI TEAM, THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE WHENEVER I SHIFT MY CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE/REVERSE OR SLOW DOWN QUICKLY. SO, I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE HERE. I FEEL REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY OWN VEHICLE WHEN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS PUTS ME TO THINK THAT THIS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY AND LESS THAN 100,000 KM.

BOTH DRIVERS AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR ACTUATORS HAVE GONE BAD. I SEE ONLINE THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY THE DEALERSHIP THAT IT IS AS WELL. THEY WILL NOT COVER THE COSTS OF REPAIR. REAR SHOCKS ARE ALSO WORN OUT AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY DEALERSHIP THAT THIS IS ANOTHER COMMON ISSUE. ONLY 3 YEARS OLD WITH 39K MILES ON THE CAR.

DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN CAR DOOR FROM OUTSIDE. WAS WORKING FINE ALL DAY THEN STOPPED WORKING. CAR WAS STATIONARY. FRONT PASSENGER DOOR HANDLE CAME OFF IN MY HAND. THIS OCCURRED MONTHS PRIOR TO FRONT DRIVER DOOR.

THE ISSUE HAS HAPPENED WHILE MY VEHICLE HAS BEEN STATIONARY AND IN MOTION, ON A CIY STREET, ON A HIGHWAY AND WHILE TURNING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AS THE CAR SHAKES. IF I'M IN MOTION, THE LIGHT WILL STAY ON WHILE MY FOOT IS ON THE ACCELERATOR, TURN OFF WHEN I TAKE IT OFF THE ACCELERATOR AND COME BACK ON WHEN IT REACHES 1RPM'S. IF I'M STOPPED IT WILL JUMP FORWARD WHEN I PRESS THE GAS TO ACCELERATE (THE WHOLE TIME THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON). WHILE I'M STATIONARY, IT WILL STAY ON WHILE IT'S AT 1RPM'S OR BELOW. I HAVE GONE TO THE DEALER A COUPLE TIMES ALREADY TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF IT. THE FIRST TIME THEY TOLD ME IT HAD TO DO WITH MY SPARK PLUGS SO I DID THE SERVICE TO GET THAT TAKEN CARE OF. THE SECOND TIME I WENT THEY TOLD ME THEY COULDN'T FIND ANY CODE TO INDICATE A PROBLEM. HERE WE ARE AGAIN AND I'M HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE ADDRESS AS I'VE CURRENTLY READ MANY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA OWNERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I DON'T SEE THE BENEFIT OF BRINGING IT TO THE DEALER AGAIN IF I'M JUST GOING TO PAY FOR A SERVICE THAT ISN'T GOING TO RECTIFY THE PROBLEM AND THEY CONTINUE TO SAY THERE IS NO PROBLEM. I DO HAVE VIDEO TO SHOW THE PROBLEM.

THE DOORS IN THE 2017 ELANTRA MODEL STOPPED WORKING, THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE HANDLE AND SOMETIMES THEY DO NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE EITHER.

REAR, PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE. YOU CAN HEAR THE LOCK MECHANISM WORKING, BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN NO MATTER WHAT WE DO. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE BEEN HAVING WITH HYUNDAIS FOR YEARS NOW. HERE'S A LINK TO A FORUM THAT TALKS ABOUT IT. HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/ THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE SAYS IT'S OUT OF WARRANTY, AND WON'T LOOK AT IT WITHOUT CHARGING ME, SO I DIDN'T GET A REPAIR ESTIMATE.

THE VEHICLE LIT ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL THE SCC SYSTEM AND THE AEB SYSTEM THE CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT WORK

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S SIDE REAR DOORS WERE UNLOCKED HOWEVER, THE DOORS FAIL TO OPEN FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. ADDITIONALLY, THE PASSENGER'S SIDE FRONT SIDE DOOR FAILED TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE HOWEVER, THE DOOR WAS ABLE TO BE OPENED FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT DOOR FAILED TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE ON THE FIRST ATTEMPT. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS THE DOOR UNLOCKED FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL SOUND COMING FROM THE ENGINE. ELDER HYUNDAI (19077 HALL RD, MACOMB, MI 48044, (586) 838-1667) WAS CONTACT BY PHONE HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 83,000.

THIS IS MY THIRD HYUNDAI AND FOR SOME REASON MY FRONT BREAKS WERE COMPLETELY SHOT AND I HAD TO SPEND $567.65 TO HAVE THEM REPLACED. AFTER SEARCHING OTHER CARS THIS SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED THIS EARLY ESPECIALLY WITH ALMOST ALL HIGHWAY DRIVING. I HAD BEEN THINKING ABOUT ANOTHER HYUNDAI, BUT WITH THIS PROBLEM I AM THINKING MAYBE A DIFFERENT BRAND MAY BE BETTER. THIS PROBLEM HAD NOT OCCURED BEFORE.BREAKS WERE REPAIRED AT DEALER OTHERWISE I MIGHT JUST LOSE MY WARRENTY. I CAN TELL YOU I AM NOT A HAPPY CUSTOMER OF HYUNDAI AT THIS POINT AT 36,000 MILES.

COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO I COULDN'T GET EITHER OF MY BACK DOORS TO OPEN UP, FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GOT IT FIXED WITH EXTENDED WARRANTY. I MADE A COMPLAINT ON HERE THEN AND NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING THE TROUBLE. NOW, THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. THIS IS [XXX]. 3 OF MY FOUR DOORS AND OTHERS HAVING THE ISSUE. IN FACT, THERE HAS BEEN 220 COMPLAINTS ON THIS WEBSITE ABOUT THIS CAR AND 33 OF THEM ARE BECAUSE THE DOORS WON'T OPEN. THERE HAVE BEEN 5 IN THE LAST MONTH....WHEN DOES IT BECOME HYUNDIA'S PROBLEM? TOTAL [XXX]. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

MY HEADLAMP LIGHTBULBS KEEP BURNING OUT. IN 2020 ALONE I HAVE SWITCHED THEM OUT 3 TIMES EACH! WAS TOLD THAT'S NOT NORMAL. TODAY I SWITCHED THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR THE 3RD TIME THIS YEAR. I'M SURE BEFORE 2021 I WILL NEED TO REPLACE THE DRIVER SIDE. IT'S GETTING EXPENSIVE! ALSO MY IGNITION COIL HAS GONE OUT 2CE IN 4 YEARS. (YES IT'S A 2017 BUT I PURCHASED 6/30/2016) MY CAR SHAKES AND MAKES WEIRD NOISE. SAME ONE #1 IS THE CULPRIT.

CAR STALLED ON HIGHWAY ON 11-01-2020, PASSED BOTH INSPECTIONS ON 8-29-2020. PURCHASED CAR ON 9-1-2020 THROUGH DRIVETIME. I HAVE INSPECTION PAPER WORK FROM BUYER SHOWING EVERYTHING PASSED. CHANGED OIL ON 10/14/2020 THROUGH JIFFYLUBE WITH ONLY THE AIR FILTER BEING THE ONLY ISSUE FLAGGED.

THE DOORS WILL NOT OPEN. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUT. MY DRIVER SIDE HAS STARTED TO DO THE SAME THING. THANKFULLY IT'S STILL OPENING BUT IT STILL GOES IN AND OUT.

FRONT AND REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HANDLES INOPERABLE. UNABLE TO OPEN FROM INTERIOR OR EXTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT NOT OPEN.

THE DOOR HANDLES ON MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CONTINUE TO FALL OFF. SO FAR, ALL 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES HAVE FALLEN OFF AT LEAST ONCE, MY DRIVERS SIDE FRONT DOOR HAS NOW BROKEN 3 TIMES, PASSENGER FRONT DOOR HANDLE BROKEN TWICE, AND REAR PASSENGER DOOR BROKEN TWICE. CURRENTLY 3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOOR HANDLES ARE BROKEN. BEEN WAITING NEARLY 6 MONTHS FOR THE DEALERSHIP TO FIX THIS AS A "COURTESY" BECAUSE MY CAR WITH 85K MILES IS OUT OF WARRANTY.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA CAR STARTED STALLING AT RED LIGHTS AND WHEN STOPPING. ALMOST CRASHED TWICE. IT STARTS BACK UP. IT STARTED 10\12\20. IT HAPPENED A FEW TIMES AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WITH CODE P3006. ABOUT 20 MILES IT WENT OFF. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND NEEDS TO BE FIXED. A LOT OF PEOPLE IS COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. IT NEED TO BE RECALLED AND REPAIRED.

THE CAR WOULD STALL IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING, THE MOST RECENT TIME ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE STALLS WITH NO REASON AT ALL. THIS INCIDENT HAS HAPPENED 5 OR 6 TIMES WITH NO HELP FROM THE DEALER AS THEY HAVE NOT FOUND THE ISSUE. THIS VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE.

FIRST THE CAR HAS BEEN ACTING LIKE IT'S GOING TO DIE EVEN WHILE DRIVING IT. NOW I'M HAVING ISSUES WITH MY STEERING WHEEL, IT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE IS DIFFICULT TO TURN BUT IT'S OFF AND ON. IT'S ALWAYS WHILE I'M ACTIVELY DRIVING IT'S BEEN BOTH CITY STREET AND HIGHWAYS.

THE POWER STEERING MECHANISM CLICKS OR CLAPS WHENEVER STEERING EITHER FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. THE NOISE ISN'T ALWAYS THERE. IT HAPPENS AT RANDOM TIMES, BUT ITS AT EITHER DIRECTIONS WHEN STEERING INTO A PARKING SPOT OR A PARKING LOT.

I PURCHASE THIS VEHICLE IN 7/2018 AND HAD IT FOR JUST OVER 2YEARS AND THE VEHICLE STARTED STALLING AND STOPPING THEN SOON JUST SHUT DOWN AS I WAS DRIVING. AFTER GETTING IT TOW HOME AND HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT. I WAS TOLD THE ENGINE WAS BAD AND IT WAS NOT FIXABLE. I'M HAVE A CAR I'M FINANCING AND CAN'T USE THE CARE AGAIN. I HAVE CONTACT HYUNDAI FOR OVER A WEEK NOW AND NO ONE HAVE RESPONSE. MY CASE MANAGER WILL NOT CALL ME BACK ON THIS. I HAVE A CASE NUMBER AND CALL EVERYDAY AND ALL I GET IT RUDE SUPERVISOR WHO DO NOT CARE.

PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE IT BEFORE PAYING. THE SALESMAN SAL SAID THERE'S NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT THAT AS I ALREADY PAID FOR THE CAR AND MUST ACCEPT IT THAT WAY. I BROUGHT IT TO A SALESWOMAN ATTENTION THE LAST TIME I WENT TO PICK UP MY CAR AND THEY ONLY SAID THE MANAGER/OWNER WILL REACH OUT TO ME. NEVER HEARD FROM THEM. STILL DIDN'T RECEIVE PLATES. I FEEL LIKE THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ME AS A SENIOR CITIZEN.

DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS DO NOT UNLOCK. OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE, PLACE THE KEY IN THE DOOR LOCK IN THE HANDLE AND TURN, OR USE THE WIRELESS REMOTE. BOTH METHODS FLIP THE DOOR LOCK INSIDE THE CAR TO THE OPEN POSITION, BUT NEITHER UNLOCKS THE DOOR.

ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.

TPMS MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS ON. CAR IS SHAKING . ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON

IN OPERATING SPEED LESS THAN 25 MPH ON A RESIDENTIAL STREET, ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE ABRUPTLY STOPPED WORKING AND POWER STEERING LIGHT ON DASH ILLUMINATED. OPERATOR LOST 90% CONTROL OF STEERING. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED AS DESIGNED. DEALERSHIP DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE WAS DUE TO A BAD BATTERY BUT ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS OPERATED. RECALL 161 DESCRIBES A MORE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF A DAMAGED ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING CONNECTOR RESULTING IN A LOSS OF ELECTRIC POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE.

THE DOORS SUDDENLY STOP WORKING... THEY WON'T UNLATCH IF YOU TRY TO OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OR INSIDE.. YOU HAVE TO HIT UNDER THE DOOR HANDLE FOR THE DOOR TO UNLATCH. THIS IS HAPPENING ON MULTIPLE VEHICLES AND IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE AT THIS POINT. (MORE CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS HERE: HTTPS://WWW.HYUNDAI-FORUMS.COM/THREADS/REAR-PASSENGER-DOOR-WONT-OPEN.603329/) THIS IS HAPPENING ON 2 OF MY DOORS. CAR HAS NEVER BEEN IN ACCIDENTS NOR DOES IT HAVE ANY DENTS ON IT. HYUNDAI SAYS THEY WILL NOT FIX UNDER WARRANTY (CAR HAS 65K MILES ON IT) AND THEY ARE CHARGING CUSTOMERS TO FIX IT DESPITE IT BEING A MANUFACTURER ISSUE. THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE GIVEN THAT IN CASE OF AN ACCIDENT OR A FIRE, THE DOOR MAY NOT OPEN TO GET PASSENGERS TO SAFETY. THIS IS NOT AN ISSUE WHERE IT SLOWLY DEGRADES. IT'S A SUDDEN ISSUE.

WHEN TRYING TO MAKE A SUDDEN BR.AKE, THE VEHICLE TOOK LONGER TO BRAKE THAN IT SHOULD HAVE. THE TIRES AND BRAKE PADS WERE IN GREAT CONDITION AND I KNOW THIS BECAUSE I HAD GOT THEM CHECKED OUT PRIOR TO MY ROAD TRIP WHICH IS WHEN THE INCIDENT TOOK PLACE. OUT OF ALL THE CARS I HAVE DRIVEN, NONE OF THEM HAVE TOOK THAT LONG TO MAKE A COMPLETE STOP. IF THERE HAD BEEN A CAR IN THE INTERSECTION, I WOULD HAVE DEFINITLY HIT THEM WHICH IS VERY SCARY. AS A RESULT OF THIS I NOW KEEP A MUCH LONGER DISTANCE WHEN DRIVING BEHIND OTHERS AND I ALSO BRAKE AHEAD OF TIME SCARED THAT ONE DAY THE CAR MIGHT NOT STOP AT ALL.

THE DOORS WOULDN'T UNLOCK, THEN DECIDED TO UNLOCK. THE VEHICLE WILL ONLY MAKE THIS LOUD CLICKING NOISE. THE BATTERY TESTS GOOD. THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS KEEP COMING ON AND OFF EVEN THOUGH THE VEHICLE IS NOT ON AT ALL. ALL SWITCHES ARE TUNED OFF AND IT'S NOT IN ACCC MODE. HAD TO DISCONNECT BATTERY AND WAIT FOR TOW TRUCK.

THROTTLE POSITION SWITCH HESITATES UPON ACCELERATION. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, ON A CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY. ENGINE SEEMED TO HAVE NO POWER.

THE VEHICLE WAS BEING ADJUSTED WHILE PARKING ALONG SIDE A CURB ON A HILL. THE DRIVER PULLED FORWARD, THEN ATTEMPTED TO STOP IN ORDER TO PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE TO GET CLOSER TO THE CURB, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL WOULD NOT DEPRESS. THE CAR BEGAN TO ROLL DOWN THE HILL AND HIT THE BACK OF A PARKED SUV AND ENDED UP WEDGED UNDER THE BACK OF THE SUV. THE ENTIRE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS SMASHED, BUT THE AIRBAG NEVER DEPLOYED.

IGNITION COIL PACK FAILURE. 1 COIL PACK FAILED (STARTED FAILING AT 40,000 AND IT WAS 44,000MI BEFORE THE ISSUE WAS FIXED ) & ANOTHER IS FAILING (AT APROX48,000). I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR TO HYUNDAI MULTIPLE TIMES TO HAVE THIS RECTIFIED AND IN THAT TIME MY VEHICLE WAS RUNNING ROUGH AT IDLE, WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE ATTEMPTED TO STALL WHILE DRIVING AT INTERSTATESPEEDS ON A MERGE RAMP BETWEEN TWO INTERSTATES DURINGTHEFIRST INSTANCE OF FAILURE. HYUNDAI WOULD NOT RECTIFY THE ISSUE WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT PRESENTED AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE FIRST COIL PACK WAS REPLACED. NOW ANOTHER COIL PACK IS FAILING AND THE DEALERSHIP REFUSES TO FIX THE MATTER WITHOUT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I VISITED THE DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED MY MOST RECENT FAILING IGNITION COIL ON 9/1/2020. THE ROUGH IDLE AND RUNNING ROUGH IS BECOMING MORE FREQUENT WHICH MEANS THE VEHICLE IS LIKELY TO STALL WHILE DRIVING. THE 2017 KIA FORTE HAS THE SAME ENGINE AND HAS A TSB ON THIS ISSUE TO BE FIXED. THE FORTE NHTSA ID # IS 10127032. DUE TO THE STALLING WHILE DRIVING THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. MY VEHICLE IS UNDER MY FACTORY 5YR/ 60K WARRANTY WITH HYUNDAI AND I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER.

IN FEBRUARY 2020, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AFTER MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND LOSE SPEED AS I DROVE ON THE CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAYS.THE SERVICEMAN REPLACED THE COILS IN MY CAR. WITHIN A WEEK, MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY "FIXED" IT AGAIN TO NO AVAIL. IN EARLY MARCH, MY CAR WAS STILL EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS: SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND LOSING SPEED AS I DROVE ON BOTH THE HIGHWAY AND ON CITY STREETS. I CHOSE TO TRY A DIFFERENT SERVICE CENTER. THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIND A PROBLEM WITH MY CAR BY RUNNING THE CODES, BUT HE SAID THAT NOTHING POPPED UP ON THE SCREEN. I TOLD HIM THAT MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES ON AND OFF WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON AND OFF OF THE ACCELERATOR. HE SENT ME ON MY WAY WITHOUT FIXING MY CAR, BUT HE TOLD ME TO BRING MY CAR BACK INTO THE SERVICE CENTER WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF MY CAR AS SOON AS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THE DASHBOARD. HE TOLD ME THAT THIS WAS IMPORTANT, BECAUSE IT WOULD HELP THEM BE ABLE TO DETECT THE ISSUE. WITHIN 15 MINUTES OF PULLING OFF OF THE PARKING LOT, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHED BACK ON AND MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED AGAIN. I TURNED AROUND IMMEDIATELY AND TOOK MY CAR BACK. THEY FLUSHED OUT THE FUEL LINE SYSTEM. WITHIN TWO WEEKS, I BROUGHT MY CAR BACK FOR THE SAME THING, BUT THE SERVICEMAN TOLD ME THAT HE COULD NOT FIND ANY ISSUES SINCE THE COMPUTER SHOWED NO ISSUES. EVERY TIME I TAKE MY CAR INTO A HYUNDAI REPAIR CENTER, THEY TELL ME THAT THEY CANNOT DETECT ANY ISSUES WITH MY CAR, ALTHOUGH I TELL THEM THAT MY CAR BEGINS TO SHAKE AND LOSE SPEED RANDOMLY. IT IS NOW SEPT. 2020, AND I AM STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUES. I AM SCHEDULED TO TAKE MY CAR INTO A NEW HYUNDAI SERVICE CENTER IN A NEW STATE. THIS IS A DANGEROUS CAR PROBLEM THAT THREATENS THE SAFETY OF ME AND OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO TAKE ACTION NOW!

ONCE AGAIN THE CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AND STARTED LUNGING FORWARD WHILE DRIVING WITHIN CITY LIMITS. CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. I PULLED OVER AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS NO LONGER ILLUMINATED AND THE CAR SEEMED TO DRIVE SOMEWHAT NORMALLY. THIS WAS NOT THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL BY READING OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE, SEVERAL PEOPLE ARE HAVING THESE ISSUES AS WELL. IT APPEARS TO BE THE ECM, ENGINE CONTROL MODULE. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE ASAP. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE. DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO SAY YOU NEED NEW SPARK PLUGS OR A SOFTWARE UPDATE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS A RECALL IMMEDIATELY.

WHEN I BRAKE THE BRAKES DON'T RESPOND PROPERLY

THE PAINT ON THE CAR PEELS OFF IN SHEETS. COMPLETELY BELOW THE PRIMER LAYER EXPOSING THE METAL. I HAVE NOTICED SEVERAL OTHER ELANTRA'S THAT SEEM TO HAVE THE SAME ISSUE

I JUST DROVE THE CAR OFF THE LOT EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING FOUR HOURS HOME THE LIGHTS WENT OUT THE LIGHT IS CUTTING OFF AND ON AND NOW I GET AN ALERT CHECK BACK BRAKE LIGHT SO NOW IT IS NOT WORKING

WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.

MY CAR HAD RECENTLY BEGAN TO SHAKE AND BUCK VIOLENTLY WHILE DRIVING WITH NO WARNING LIGHTS OR INDICATORS AT 38,000 MILES. THREE WEEKS AGO BEFORE A REGULAR MAINTENANCE APPOINTMENT AT MY HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT THE !CAR, AS I TURNED OVER THE IGNITION AND ACCELERATED THE CAR BEGAN TO BUCK AND SHAKE VIOLENTLY. AS I PRESSED THE GAS, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC IN WASHINGTON, D.C. SO ONCE I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY MOVE OVER, I TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. NO SHAKING AND CONTINUED AS NORMAL. ONCE I TOOK THE CAR IN THE FOLLOWING WEEK, I WAS TOLD EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND MADE SURE TO MENTION THE SHAKING AND BUCKING AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING. THE NEXT DAY FOLLOWING SERVICE AND RECEIVING MY CAR BACK, MY CAR BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY AGAIN. STILL NO WARNING LIGHT INDICATOR. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE MECHANIC WHERE MY COIL PACKS WERE UPDATED (I BOUGHT MY CAR MARCH 2017 AND WAS NEVER TOLD ABOUT ANY RECALLS ON COIL PACKS THAT RELEASE LATE 2017 UNTIL THIS MOMENT). ONCE I RECEIVED MY CAR BACK I WAS INFORMED THAT EVERYTHING WAS OKAY. WELL IT WAS NOT. THE NEXT DAY I'M DRIVING MY CAR A SHORT DISTANCE WHEN TWO HARD SHAKES HAPPENED. ONE SOUNDED LIKE TWO METAL PIECES COLLIDING. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED THE CAR OFF AND BACK OVER. THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT IS NOW PERMANENTLY ON. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED AND NOW BEING TOLD IT COULD BE THE TRANSMISSION BUT NO UPDATES. SERIOUSLY UNSAFE AND COULD'VE NOW BEEN IN MULTIPLE ACCIDENTS ALTHOUGH I'VE REGULARLY SERVICED AT THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED MY CAR.

BOTH BACK DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. THEY WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE. I TOOK TO SHOP AND THEY SAID IT WAS ACUTATOR OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. COST OVER $650 TO FIX. I HAD THE EXTENDED WARRANTY SO I GOT IT FIXED, "FREE". BUT OTHERS MAY NOT BE SO LUCKY. NEVER BEEN IN WRECK, COMPLETELY NOT MY FAULT AT ALL.

WHEN I PURCHASED MY CAR IT WAS BRAND NEW IT IS WHITE AND WITHIN 1 TO 1.5 YEARS THE PAINT JOB BEGAN PEELING OFF FROM THE FRONT. I USE THE CAR FOR WORK AND I DRIVE A LOT. I TOOK IN THE CAR AND I WAS TOLD IT WAS OUT OF WARRANTY BECAUSE IT WAS OVER 4,000 MILES. THE PROBLEM HAS GOTTEN SO BAD THAT BY SIMPLY WASHING THE CAR THE PAINT JOB PEELS OFF. FROM THE TIME I TOOK IT IN UNTIL NOW I HAVE SEEN OTHER HYUNDAI CARS (ABOUT 5-7) WITH THE SAME PROBLEM; ALL WHITE. ABOUT 1 YR AGO I BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS OPENING THE FRONT DRIVER DOOR. THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED BUT I COULDN'T OPEN IT FROM THE OUTSIDE. I WOULD HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR AND OPEN THE DRIVER DOOR FROM THE INSIDE. IF I DON'T LOCK THE CAR I DON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES. IF I LOCK IT I HAVE TO PULL ON THE HANDLE ABOUT 3 - 4 TIMES. THIS IS A BIG INCONVENIENCE AND A SAFETY HAZARD. ABOUT TWO WEEKS AGO I BEGAN HAVING ISSUES WITH THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR. I HAVE A TWO YEAR OLD AND HER CAR SEAT WAS PLACED ON THE BACK SEAT BEHIND THE PASSENGER. THE BACK PASSENGER DOOR WAS ON CHILD LOCK. TWO WEEKS AGO THAT DOOR ALSO STOPPED OPENING AND I CAN'T OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE DUE TO THE CHILD LOCK. I HAVE MOVED MY DAUGHTER'S CAR SEAT AND IT IS NOW POSITIONED DIRECTLY BEHIND THE DRIVER SEAT. THIS IS A BIG SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE HER AT ALL WHEN I AM DRIVING. ALSO, I CAN'T PUT THAT DOOR ON CHILD LOCK BECAUSE WHEN THAT DOOR STARTS GIVING ME THE SAME PROBLEM (NOT OPENING) I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE IF IT IS ON CHILD LOCK. SO NOW I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MY TWO YEAR OLD REACHING FOR THE HANDLE AND OPENING THE DOOR. I HAVE DONE ONLINE SEARCHES AND HAVE COME ACROSS OTHER HYUNDAI VEHICLES HAVING THE SAME ISSUES OR THE DOOR HANDLES COMPLETELY COMING OFF. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO TAKE ACCOUNTABILITY FOR THE DOOR HANDLES AND POOR PAINT JOB.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED RAN GREAT FOR A WHILE, THE ONE OF THE FOUR COILS WENT BAD, STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE DEALER REPLACED THE COIL, AND RAN GREAT, AND NOW THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND I SET AN APPOINTMENT FOR THE DEALER THE DAY I TAKE TO THE DEALER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT OUT AND IT WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ANYWAY AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE COIL, AND IT WASN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY ANYMORE, BUT THE CAR WAS RUNNING GREAT, SO I'VE BEEN DRIVING IT, AND NOW EVERY NOW AND THEN IT SHAKES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND WHEN I STEP ON THE GAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL!

THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.

PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, CHILD SAFETY LOCK NOT ENGAGED, WILL NOT UNLOCK. DEALER STATED THAT HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL HYUNDAI'S BUT THERE IS CURRENTLY NO RECALL. DEALER STATED ACTUATOR IS BAD AND THE CABLES ARE STRETCHED. VERY UNSAFE THAT HYUNDAI DOORS ARE SELF LOCKING FROM NORMAL USE WITHOUT DAMAGE AND WITHOUT WARNING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S DOORS FAILED TO UNLATCH. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN UNKNOWN HYUNDAI DEALER LOCATED IN VAN NUYS, CA, AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE LOCKS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000.

I BOUGHT MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA USED 6 MONTHS AGO. 4 MONTHS AFTER I HAD IT THE CAR WAS SHAKING VIOLENTLY AND DID NOT WANT TO ACCELERATE . TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC HE SAID IT WAS MISFIRING AND REPLACED IGNITION COIL . IT WAS DRIVING FINE FOR 2 MONTHS THEN WHILE DRIVING TO WORK ON A MAJOR HIGHWAY THE CAR STARTED SHAKING VIOLENTLY AGAIN AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE TO SPEED IT WAS SHUTTING DOWN .. HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED . MECHANIC RAN A DIAGNOSTIC ON IT AND ITS READING MULTIPLE MISFIRES . I CAN NOT AFFORD CAR PAYMENT PLUS HAVING CONSTANT REPAIRS DONE EVERY COUPLE MONTHS.. THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY OF THE SAME COMPLAINTS ON A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ENGINE PROBLEMS. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A REAL CONCERN FOR A NEWER CAR . HYUNDAI NEEDS TO FIX THE ISSUE FOR THIS YEAR AND MODEL . OR THERE NEEDS TO BE A LAWSUIT AGAINST HYUNDAI ... THESE ARE LEMON CARS AND ARE UNSAFE TO DRIVE THEY NEED TO BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR IT .

MY CAR IS CONTINUOUSLY GETTING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND THE CAR RATTLES. DESPITE, VISITING THE DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES, THE SERVICE CENTER AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN DICKSON CITY, PA CANNOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. 12/10/2019 - MY CAR STARTED TO SHAKE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK. I PULLED OVER AND TURNED OFF THE CAR. I TURNED IT ON, THE LIGHT WAS GONE. I TOOK IT THE DEALERSHIP ON VERY SAME DAY AND THE SERVICE ADVISOR SAID NOTHING IS WRONG WITH IT. ADDITIONAL SERVICES; OIL CHANGE, BRAKE FLUSH AND COOLING SYSTEM WERE COMPLETED. 12/31/2019 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR RATTLES WHEN I WAS DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY DOING AROUND 55-60 MILES PER HOUR. 01/02/2020 - I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THIS TIME, THE SERVICE ADVISER SAID "A LOT OF ELANTRAS ARE EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE AND NEEDS SOFTWARE UPDATE". THEY SCANNED AND FOUND CODE P030100 / MISFIRE. TECHNICIAN PERFORMED SOFTWARE UPDATE AND ALL THE COST WAS COVERED UNDER ENGINE WARRANTY. 01/27/2020 ' CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AGAIN. THIS TIME, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON. THEY FINALLY REPLACED SPARK-PLUGS AND COIL PACK ON CYLINDER 2. 03/20/2020 ' DUE TO CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC, I'VE BEEN WORKING REMOTELY SO I HAVEN'T DRIVEN MUCH. 04/18/2020 ' COMPLETED STATE INSPECTION AND EMISSION. SERVICE CENTER PERFORMED MULTI-POINT INSPECTION AND FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ENGINE. 07/15/2020 - THE CAR STALLS AGAIN, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF. I STOPPED DRIVING IT AND DROPPED IT OFF AT THE DEALERSHIP ON 07/17/2020. 07/18/2020 - TECHNICIAN DID A NEW SOFTWARE PATCH FOR THE SECOND TIME. ADDITIONAL SERVICES: OIL CHANGE, BATTERY AND FRONT BRAKES REPLACEMENT COMPLETED. I THINK THIS NEED TO BE INVESTIGATED AND DESERVE A FULL RECALL FOR ALL THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHO ARE EXPERIENCING ENGINE ISSUES.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR JUST STOPPED OPENING, HAVE TO GO THROUGH PASSENGER SIDE DOOR TO OPEN DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR HASN'T OPENED IN MONTHS FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, IT JUST ONE DAY DIDNT OPEN. GOOGLE HYUNDAI ELANTRA DOOR LATCH AND YOU WILL SEE MANY MORE PEOPLE VERY ANGRY WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. IT IS VERY MUCH A SAFETY ISSUE. MY CAR WAS AT A CONVIENCE STORE WHEN THE DOOR DIDNT OPEN AFTER I WENT INTO THE STORE. I AM GOING TO THE DEALERSHIP ON 7-25-20 TO GET THEM TO LOOK AT IT BUT I THINK THEY ARE GOING TO TRY AND CHARGE ME EVEN THOUGH MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM THERE SHOULD ALREADY BE A RECALL IN PLACE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A GRINDING NOISE WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED WITH THE BRAKING DISTANCE BEING EXTENDED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BRAKE ROTORS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 55,428. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

MY VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND LOCKED. I UNLOCKED THE DOOR WITH THE REMOTE KEY AND AFTER PULLING THE EXTERIOR DRIVER SIDE DOOR HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR, THE PLASTIC PIECE SURROUNDING THE AREA WHERE A KEY MAY BE INSERTED BROKE OFF AND THE HANDLE ITSELF REMAINED PULLED AWAY FROM THE CAR AND THE DOOR COULD NOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. I AM NOW ONLY ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR USING THE INNER HANDLE AFTER CLIMBING ACROSS THE PASSENGER SEAT INSIDE THE CAR.

OVER THE PAST 2 WEEKS I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD LIGHTS SHUTTING OFF WILE DRIVING ON MAIN HIGHWAYS AT NIGHT. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 8 OR 9 TIMES. THEY WILL GO OFF WHEN SWITCHING FROM HIGH BEAM TO LOW BEAM. IF I PULL THE LIGHT SWITCH ARM A COUPLE TIMES THEY DO EVENTUALLY COME BACK ON. ALSO TWO TIMES IN THE PAST 2 WEEKS MY PARKING LIGHTS HAVE COME ON WHILE PARKED AND CAR IS SHUT OFF.

10/7/19 - MY CAR BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER SITTING FOR 8 HOURS PARKED. THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT IT WAS LOSING POWER AND I HAD BROUGHT MY VEHICLE IN TO BE SERVICED AT A HYUNDAI DEALER A WEEK BEFORE WHERE THEY SAID NO ISSUES WERE SEEN WITH MY BATTERY AT THAT TIME. I GOT A JUMP AND DROVE HOME. THE NEXT MORNING MY CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO A SHOP BECAUSE IT COULDN'T EVEN BE JUMPED AT THIS POINT. WE WERE TOLD BY THE SAME HYUNDAI DEALER THE BATTERY WAS BEYOND DEAD. AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS BARELY TWO YEARS OLD AT THIS POINT. BUT WE REPLACED IT. 7/7/20 MY BATTERY IS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN TODAY WITHOUT WARNING. A REPAIR SHOP TESTED IT AND IT WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED DEAD. THEY SAID IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IN LESS THAN ONE YEAR. THIS IS NOT RIGHT.

VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190

APPROXIMATELY MAY 2019 I STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE ALTHOUGH THE CAR WAS UNLOCKED. CURRENTLY, IT HAS BEEN STUCK CLOSED FOR NUMEROUS MONTHS NOW. TO ME, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ANYONE RIDING IN THE REAR SEAT. ESPECIALLY IF INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT AND CAN'T GET OUT OF THE CAR. TODAY, 6/30/20 I STARTED HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR. *TR

MY 2017 WHITE PEARL HYUNDAI ELANTRA HAS HUGE PIECES OF PAINT PEELING OFF OF THE HOOD OF MY CAR. I NOTICE IT IN OCTOBER 2019 THE BIG PIECE THEN 3 MONTHS LATER SOME MORE BEGAN TO PEEL. *TR

ELECTRICAL ISSUE - FRONT PASSENGER OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE WILL NOT OPEN DOOR WITHOUT BEING PULLED SEVERAL TIMES. CAN OPEN FROM INSIDE. OTHER ISSUE - HEAT ONLY WORKS WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION, OTHERWISE IT BLOWS COLD AIR WHEN PARKED OR IDOL. HAS BEEN DOING THAT SINCE I PURCHASED IT IN 2018. *TR

THE CAR IS SERVICED EVERY 3000 MILES WITH AN OIL CHANGE. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK ONE DAY AND MY TIRES SQUALLED AND MY ENGINE LOCKED UP AND WOULD NOT START. THE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED DO TO THE MAIN BEARINGS FAILING. *TR

I HAVE A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH PICKING UP SPEED RPMS JUMPING AND FEELING LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T WANT TO GO. THIS STARTED AT 7,000 MILES AND I BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW OFF THE LOT IT HAS BEEN IN OVER 8 TIMES FOR THIS ISSUE AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE CAR OR THAT BECAUSE MY CAR IS NOT THROWING CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS THEY WONT FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY, OR I'M NOT USING A HYUNDAI APPROVED GAS STATION SO THIS IS WHY I'M HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR, NOW AT 29,000 MILES STILL HAVING PROBLEMS ITS THE WORST ON THE EXPRESSWAY IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC.NOW I WENT TO HAVE MY OIL CHANGED AND FOUND OUT I WAS LOW ON 2 QUARTS OF OIL AND MY SPARK PLUGS HAVE OIL ON THEM ONCE AGAIN THE CAR HAS TO GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS MADE FULLY AWARE OF WHAT COULD HAPPEN IF THE ENGINE GOES. I JUST REALLY HOPE I'M NOT ON THE EXPRESSWAY WHEN THIS HAPPENS, AT THE BEGIN OF THE YEAR I NOTICED WHEN I WOULD COME TO A STOP MY HEAT WOULD DROP AND BECOME LUKE WARM IT HAS NOW BEEN INTO THE DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES THE THERMOSTAT HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THIS IS NORMAL HYUNDAI VEHICLES DO THIS. MY HEAT IS DROPPING AT LEAST 58 DEGREES WHEN IDLING AND MY WINDOW IS HAVING A HARD TIME DEFROSTING UNLESS I'M DRIVING. *TR

THE ENGINE STARTED ROUGH IDLING PERIODICALLY (ONCE PER WEEK) AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS YEAR (2020). RESTARTING THE CAR WOULD USUALLY RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. IT WOULD USUALLY HAPPEN AFTER COMING TO A STOP AFTER HIGHWAY DRIVING. HOWEVER IT BEGAN HAPPENING WITH MORE FREQUENCY IN APRIL TO THE POINT THAT IT COULD HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES PER DAY. THE ISSUE CAME TO THE HEAD THE FIRST WEEK OF MAY WHEN THE CAR STALLED AFTER COMING TO A STOP AT A STREET LIGHT. THIS TIME IT WAS AFTER ONLY MINIMAL CITY-STREET DRIVING. I HAD TO SHIFT INTO PARK AND START THE CAR AGAIN, AFTER WHICH IT WORKED WITHOUT ISSUE. HOWEVER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. I TOOK THE CAR TO MY MECHANIC SAME DAY AND THEY SAID THE CODE INDICATED A MISFIRE. THEY REPLACED THE SPARK PLUGS AND THE IGNITION COIL FOR THE CYLINDER THAT MISFIRED. THE FREQUENCY OF THE ISSUE DECREASED SIGNIFICANTLY AFTER THIS REPAIR, BUT IT'S STILL ROUGH IDLING ABOUT ONCE PER WEEK. I DECIDED TO RESEARCH THE PROBLEM BEFORE HAVING MORE WORK DONE AND HAVE FOUND MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS. THE CAR HAS 41000 MILE ON IT.

I EXPERIENCED THE CAR IDLING ROUGH WHILE IN PARK AND SOUNDING LIKE IT WANTED TO DIE OUT. I TOOK TO DEALER AND THEY REPLACED AN IGNITION COIL.THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT JUST CAME ON AGAIN YESTERDAY...TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL AGAIN. THIS WILL THE 2ND TIME TO HAVE IT FIXED ON MY 2017.SEEMS LIKE HYUNDAI VEHICLES HAVE A TON OF ISSUES WITH IGNITION COILS. AFTER I GOT MY CAR BACK IT VIOLENTLY SHOOK AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE SPEED STARTED TO DECREASED. I REACHED OUT TO HYUNDAI CORPORATION ABOUT REPLACEMENT VEHICLE . I STILL HAVE NOT HEARD ANYTHING. I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THE FAULTY IGNITION COILS.

MY FRONT DRIVERS DOOR AS WELL AS MY BACK PASSENGER DOOR DO NOT OPEN ONCE UNLOCKED. THE FRONT ONE ONLY OPENS WITH YOU PULL THE HANDLE A BUNCH OF TIMES THE BACK PASSENGER ONE DOESN'T OPEN WHATSOEVER. *TR

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY A LOUD NOISE WAS HEARD LIKE METAL FALLING ALL THE LIGHTS ON THE DASH BOARD LIT UP, THE CAR STARTED SLOWING DOWN AND STARTED TO SMOKE THEN TURNED OFF. HAD IT TOWED TO A SERVICE STATION AND WAS TOLD THAT THE PISTON FROM THE ENGINE SHOT THREW THE OIL PAN CAUSING THE ENGINE OIL TO POUR OUT AND THE CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SEIZE. *TR

MY 2017 ELANTRA LOST POWER AND DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN A COUNTY ROAD. HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK BEFORE IT WOULD RESTART. *TR

DRIVER SIDE BACK DOOR WILL NOT OPEN WITH KEY FOB OR INSIDE HANDLE. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN MY PARKING LOT.

CAR ENGINE SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED BUT WAS FIRM. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESPOND WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO GENE MESSER HYUNDAI (4025 W LOOP 289, LUBBOCK, TX 79407) HOWEVER, THE MECHANIC WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE CONTACT WAS NOTIFIED OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V063000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC) HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 75,000. THE VIN WAS INVALID.

YES I HAD BOUGHT A USED 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA SEI THEY NEVER INFORMED ME OF ANY RECALLS ON THIS VEHICLE AFTER I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE THE MOTOR BLEW UP BECAUSE OF ONE OF THE CYLINDERS WERE STICKING BECAUSE OF A FACTORY DEFECT THEY REPLACED THE MOTOR THE SECOND MOTOR STARTED DOING THE SAME THING GETTING STUCK AND SHAKING THE STEERING WOULD LOCK UP SOMETIMES WHERE I COULD NOT EVEN STEER OR IT WAS HARD TO STEER WHY EVEN WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR THEY DID NOT INFORM ME OF RECALLS WHEN I TALK TO THE CAR BACK AND HAVE THE MOTOR REPLACED THEY STILL DID NOT INFORM ME OF ANY RECALLS THESE THINGS COST ME TO HAVE AN ACCIDENT AND HIT A TELEPHONE POLE AND TOTALED MY VEHICLE

THE EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE ON MY DRIVERS SIDE STOPPED WORKING AND NOW I CAN ONLY OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE. THIS HAPPENED RANDOMLY AFTER I WAS PARKED IN A PARKING LOT FOR ONLY 4 HOURS. IT WAS WORKING FINE BEFORE THAT.

I BOUGHT A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED EDITION AT THE END OF 2016 IT HAD 43 MILES ON IT. I HAVE TAKING IT TO ABOUT 6 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS DUE TO TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND ENGINE POWER LOSS AND OUT IF THE 6 I HAVE GONE MORE THE A FEW TIMES. THEIR RESPONSE TO MY CONCERNS ABOUT THE CAR IS WE CANNOT REPRODUCE THIS SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM OR THERE'S NOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. EVERY DEALERSHIP THAT I HAVE GONE TO REPEAT THIS SAYING OVER AND OVER. WHEN MY CAR SHIFTS INTO SECOND GEAR IT'S ALMOST AS IF THAT GEAR HAS TWO MORE LIKE DRIVING A STICK SHIFT BUT YOU'RE SHIFTING TOO SOON SO IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS, IN ADDITION TO THIS 3RD 4TH 5TH GEAR HAS A LONG DELAY IN SHIFTING IT ALSO FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AS THE RPMS AND SPEED COME UP IT FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION GRIPS AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TORQUE KICK IN IF YOU WILL. THERE'S BEEN MANY TIMES I HAVE TO MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR OUT OF 5TH INTO 6TH AND A FEW TIMES OUT OF 4TH. MY CAR HAS 38970 MILES ON IT. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUSH AND THE ENGINE, IGNITION COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, I USE PREMIUM GAS AND FUEL INJECTIONS CLEARER. NOWADAYS WHEN I'M DRIVING I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL HALFWAY DOWN FOR THE CAR TO ACTUALLY MOVE. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON ABOUT SIX MONTHS AFTER I GOT THIS CARD.

WHILE DRIVING IN THE EXPRESSWAY OR ROAD THE CAR WILL SUDDENLY SHUT OFF. ALL OF THE LIGHTS WILL COME ON IN THE DASHBOARD AND I HAVE TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL OR PARK TO START IT BACK UP. IT WILL ALSO SHUT OFF IF I'M TURNING SLOWLY AROUND A CORNER OR IF I COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AFTER DRIVING FOR AWHILE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MOVE FROM COMING TO A YIELD, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED WITH THE BATTERY, OIL PRESSURE AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO CRAIN HYUNDAI OF LITTLE ROCK LOCATED AT (11701 COLONEL GLENN RD, LITTLE ROCK, AR 72210) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 76,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE SHUDDERED EXCESSIVELY AND STALLED WITH THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE ACCELERATOR WAS RELEASED AND THE VEHICLE OPERATED AS DESIGNED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO ROGERS AUTO GROUP CHICAGO LOCATED AT (2720 S MICHIGAN AVE, CHICAGO, IL 60616) WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS DIAGNOSED WITH A DEFECTIVE UNKNOWN SENSOR. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 32,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE WHICH RESUMED NORMAL OPERATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO O'BRIEN HYUNDAI OF FORT MYERS LOCATED AT (2850 COLONIAL BLVD, FORT MYERS, FL 33966 (888) 461-3831) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED AND DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS METAL SHAVINGS IN THE VALVES AND THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATION 117,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

ALL THE DOORS ARE LOCKING AND DO NOT WANT TO OPEN. IT FIRST STARTED WITH THE BACK DRIVERS SIDE DOOR THEN THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AND NOW THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS NOT WANTING TO OPEN. IT'S A HAZARD IN CASE THERE IS A CAR FIRE

I HAD THE RECALL ON MY CAR FIXED BUT IT IS DOING THE SAME THING AGAIN. WHEN I SLOW DOWN IT WILL JUST CUT OFF ON YOU.

IN JANUARY OF 2019,MY CAR BEGAN SHUTTING OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING. THE BATTERY LIGHT WOULD APPEAR ON THE DASHBOARD BEFORE THE CAR WOULD COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I TRIED TO HAVE IT FIX BUT NOTHING WORKED. I'M SEPTEMBER 2019, AS I WAS DRIVING 60MPH ON THE HIGHWAY, I SUDDENLY HEARD A LOUD NOISE AFTER WHICH MY CAR SHUT OFF AND WOULD NOT START AGAIN. I WAS ABLE TO HAVE IT TOWED TO THE NEAREST HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD I NEEDED A NEW ALTERNATOR, BATTERY, AND THERE WAS A MISFIRING. ALL THESE ISSUES WERE'FIXED'. MY CAR HAS CONTINUED TO SHUT OFF AND I HAD TO BRING THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AT WHICH I WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I AM ANXIOUS AND SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR. I HAVE HAD TO BUY 3-5 BATTERIES SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE IN 2016. MY CAR IS CURRENTLY AT THE DEALERSHIP DUE TO THIS ISSUE.

ENGINE WILL SPONTANEOUSLY SHUT OFF WITHOUT NOTICE WHILE DRIVING OR STATIONARY. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON THE STREET AND ON THE FREEWAY. THERE IS NO NOTICE PRIOR TO CALL STALLING (ENGINE SHUTTING). CAR MUST BE PLACED IN NEUTRAL OR PARK AND THEN RESTARTED. CAR WAS TAKEN TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP FOR FULL DIAGNOSTIC WITH NO FINDINGS.

THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS ON BOTH REAR DOORS HAVE FAILED PREVENTING THE DOORS FROM BEING OPENED FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE BECAUSE THE LOCKS WILL NOT DISENGAGE. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE SINCE ANY REAR PASSENGERS ARE FORCED TO EXIT THE VEHICLE THROUGH THE FRONT DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH HYUNDAI VEHICLES AND CAN COST SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS TO REPAIR A PART THAT IS NOT GENERALLY CONSIDERED CONSUMABLE.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELENTRA 2.0 LOSE POWER AND START JACKING. I WAS TOLD TO CHANGE COILS AND STARK PLUGS. THIS ALWAYS HAPPENS ON HIGHWAY. I CHANGE THEM IN MAY 2019. MY CAR STARTED JACKING AGAIN THIS MONTH. I BROUGHT NEW STARK PLUGS FROM HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP TODAY.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA; THE PAINT IS PEELING AWAY ON THE ROOF AND, HOOD AND FRONT BUMPER.

LEFT REAR DOOR WILL NOT OPEN USING EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE HANDLE. DOOR IS UNLOCKED AND THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK IS OFF BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN USING EITHER HANDLE. HAPPENS EVERY TIME YOU TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR AFTER STOPPING. ALL THE DOORS UNLOCK BUT ONLY THE LEFT REAR ONE WILL NOT OPEN. IF YOU HIT THE SIDE OF THE CAR BY THE HANDLE WITH YOUR PALM THE DOOR WILL UNLOCK AFTER A FEW TRIES, VERY STRANGE. WOULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE DURING AN ACCIDENT OR EMERGENCY WITH A CAR SEAT OR PASSENGERS IN THE BACK SEAT AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO GET THEM OUT.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CAR IS SHAKING HEAVILY AT IDLE, NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. NO ONE WILL DIAGNOSE, TURNED AWAY BY DEALERSHIP. WHEN TURNING CAR WILL STALL MIDDLE OF INTERSECTION, THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE. THIS IS UNSAFE AND DEALERSHIP WILL NOT HELP ME AND I AM TURNED AWAY. I'M STARTING TO WORRY ABOUT THE SAFETY OF MY CAR. I MAINTAIN IT UP TO MANUFACTURER STANDARDS. TRANSMISSION IS CLUNKY AND NOT WORKING WELL. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NO CODES. DEALERSHIP AND OTHER MECHANICS WILL NOT LOOK INTO ISSUES. TRANSMISSION IS SEALED SYSTEM BUT IS IN NEED OF FLUID CHANGE. FLUID IS DIRTY AND FILLED WITH METAL AT 55,000 MILES. OTHER PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF SAME ISSUE AT 35000 MILES. DEALERSHIPS SAY THIS IS A LIFETIME SYSTEM AND DOES NOT NEED SERVICE. THIS CAR IS STARTING TO SEEM UNSAFE. THE AMOUNT OF COMPLAINTS ON HYUNDAI FORUMS TO THIS NATURE SHOULD REFLECT SOME NEED TO MAKE THE CAR NOT DANGEROUS.

STEERING WHEEL IS GETTING HARD TO TURN AT TIMES. IT FEELS LIKE IT IS STICKING WHILE DRIVING

BACK PASSENGER DOORS WILL NOT OPEN

PUSH BUTTON START GETS STUCK

BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM A DEALER SHIP WITH 40,000 MILES IT NOW HAS 70,000 MILES IN BETWEEN 40K & 70K IT'S BEEN SHAKING LOSS OF POWER NO ACCELERATION HORRIBLE ON FUEL .. I'VE CHANGE SPARK PLUGS IGNITION COIL MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR AND STILL GIVES ME CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND STILL SAYING P304 WHICH IS A MISFIRE IN CYLINDER 4 I JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO ANYMORE HYUNDAI WANT A TO CHARGE ME TO TAKE IT IN DIAGNOSED IT AND I JUST DON'T HAVE THE CASH FOR THIS CAR PLEASE HELP IF ANYONE KNOWS ANYTHING ELSE BOUT THIS CAELR THANKS

MY VEHICLE IS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WITH 41,000 MILES. I AM THE SECOND OWNER. ON DECEMBER 3RD, 2019, I WAS DRIVING VEHICLE CAR APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY IN TRAFFIC. AS MY FOOT WAS PRESSING ON THE ACCELERATOR, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO SLOW DOWN, AND THE RPM NEEDLE BEGAN TO BOUNCE AROUND. I PULLED MY VEHICLE OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND RESTARTED THE VEHICLE. THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS NOT ON. AT THIS POINT THE DEALERSHIP WAS NOT OPEN AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WAS NOT ON, SO I DECIDED TO WAIT TILL THE MORNING TO CONTACT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP. AS I DROVE HOME, I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO STALL. I PULLED THE CAR INTO THE NEAREST PARKING LOT AND LEFT IT THERE OVERNIGHT. THE HYUNDAI SHOP KEPT MY VEHICLE TWO DAYS. THEY GAVE ME A LOANER CAR FOR THE SECOND DAY, SO I DID NOT MISS ANOTHER DAY AT WORK. THEY STATED THE ISSUE WAS 'FAULTY IGNITION COILS' AND REPLACED THE WIRES. IT WAS COVERED UNDER MANUFACTURES WARRANTEE THANKFULLY. TODAY, DECEMBER 12TH, I GOT IN MY VEHICLE TO GO TO WORK AND THE VEHICLE SHOOK WHEN I STARTED IT. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON IMMEDIATELY AND I CALLED THE MAINTENANCE SHOP. THEY HAD A LOANER FOR ME WAITING, AND I AM NOW WAITING TO HEAR WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT THIS TIME. I HAVE PUT ON APPROXIMATELY 400 MILES ON THE VEHICLE IN THE LAST 4 DAYS.

PURCHASED CAR FROM DRIVETIME MARCH 2019- HAD SPORADIC PROBLEMS WITH STEERING, WITH ACCELERATION ISSUES. CAR WAS DRIVING OK UNTIL THE WEEK OF DEC. 1ST -CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON 12/4 THEN WENT OFF. ON 12/5 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND BATTERY CAME ON AND CAR STOPPED WORK WHILE IN PARKING LOT, AFTER 20 MINUTES TURNED CAR ON-IT STARTED UP ,BUT KEPT SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING ON CITY STREETS. ENDED UP AT THE PEPBOY'S DIAGNOSED WITH ENGINE FAILURE.

FOUR DAYS AGO, AFTER THE CAR WAS PARKED, A PASSENGER COULDN'T GET OUT OF THE BACK SEAT ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE SINCE THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN (HE FINALLY HAD TO SLIDE OVER TO GET OUT THE OTHER SIDE). IT SEEMS IT WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT SEEMS TO HAPPEN TO MANY OTHER OWNERS AS WELL, AS SEEN ON THE INTERNET WHILE LOOKING FOR A SOLUTION. IT IS STILL A PROBLEM NOW, WHETHER THE DOOR IS LOCKED OR NOT.

A FEW WEEKS AGO I HAD TO BRAKE REALLY HARD WHEN STOPPING AND I NOTICED THAT MY SEAT BELT DIDN'T LOCK. I HAVE TESTED THE SEAT BELTS A FEW TIMES SINCE THEN AND BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SEAT BELTS DID NOT LOCK ANY OF THE TIMES.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DESPITE THE CHILD LOCKS NOT BEING ON OR THE LOCK ENGAGED. IT CLICKS AS IF THE DOOR HAS BEEN UNLOCKED BUT WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL. CAR IS IN PARK. THIS COULD POTENTIALLY BE A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE AS YOU WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO GET SOMEONE IN THE BACKSEAT OUT OF THE CAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER'S SEAT BELT FAILED TO RETRACT AND LOCK INTO POSITION. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,000.

CAR VERY UNSTABLE SUSPENSIONS VERY WEEK FRONT AND BACK CAR BOUNCING AND SHAKE SIDE WAYS WORST IN THE HIGHWAY

I GOT MY ELANTRA BRAND NEW! I TRADED A 2016 SHAKER CHALLENGER...I HAVE HAD IT ABOUT 2 YEARS. WITH LESS THEN 80,000 MILES ON MY ENGINE AND I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY ACCIDENTS. MY ENGINE JUST SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I TRY TURNING IT BACK ON, THERE IS A CLANGING NOISE FROM UNDER THE HOOD...CAR WOULDNT ACCELERATE OVER 35 OR SO...I LIMPED HOME HAVING THE CAR SHUT OFF AT LEAST 4 TIMES WITHIN 15 MILES. BARELY MAKING IT HOME. I HAVE HAD REGULAR OIL CHANGES AS MY GRANDPARENTS OWN A SHOP IN PRINCETON JUST A COUPLE TOWNS AWAY...MY CAR HAS SAT IN MY SHOP FOR ALMOST A YEAR NOW...ITS VERY DISAPPOINTING. I LOST A JOB AND HAVE STILL NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET A DIFFERENT VEHICLE GOING OR EVEN AFFORD TO GET THIS ONE FIXED, AS I AM A SINGLE MOTHER OF 4 KIDS. I AM A VERY SAFE AND CAUTIOUS DRIVER. I HAD JUST ASKED A SHOP ABOUT PRICING AN ENGINE REBUILD AND THEY ARE THE ONES WHO INFORMED ME THAT THE 2017 2.0 HAS A RECALL AND TO LOOK INTO THIS FURTHER...PLEASE HELP... -A DESPERATE MOTHER

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND FUNCTIONED NORMALLY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE SHAFT SENSOR WAS REPLACED TWICE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO PARKWAY HYUNDAI (24050 CREEKSIDE RD, SANTA CLARITA, CA 91355, (661) 750-4042) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,793.

1.THE CAR WHILE REVERSING INTO DRIVEWAY SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND HAD A COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER. (M.I.L, BATTERY, & OIL PRESSURE) LIGHT ALL CAME ON AT ONCE. RESTARTED CAR MANAGING TO GET IT OFF THE STREET AND IT DIED AGAIN WITHIN FEET. CAR WAS TOWED TO DEALERSHIP AND NOTHING FOUND. 8/31/18 2. THE CAR 11 DAYS LATER ATTEMPTED TO SHUT OFF WHILE STOPPED ON A ELEVATED HIGHWAY OFF RAMP. I WAS FORCED TO MAKE AN ILLEGAL TURN TO PREVENT CAR FROM SHUTTING OFF AND POTENTLY ROLLING BACK. REVERSING IN DRIVEWAY AGAIN CAR ATTEMPTED TO SHUT OFF BUT WAS NOT SUCCESSFUL. THE SAME LIGHTS AS BEFORE DISPLAYED AGAIN. DEALER CLEANED PCM & BATTERY GROUNDS. 9/10/2018 3. 9/20/19 WHILE PARKED THE CAR ATTEMPTED TO STALLED. THE RPM'S DROPPED QUICK AND STABILIZED. NO LIGHTS DISPLAYED. DEALER HAS NOT CHECK OUT THE VEHICLE YET BUT HYUNDAI HAS BEEN MADE AWARE OF THIS. 4.THE VEHICLE WHILE ACCELERATING UP MY EMPLOYERS DRIVE WAS THE CAR HESITATES UNLESS GAS IS PRESSED MORE THEN NORMAL. THE CAR HAS NOT STALLED YET ON THESE CONDITIONS. THE VEHICLE HAS HAD ALL SERVICE DONE ON THE INTERVALS PER HYUNDAI. THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAD JUST OVER 16K MILES. THE VEHICLE ON THE FIRST 2 OCCASIONS WERE BOTH ON SOME FORM OF A SLIGHT GRADE. THE 3RD TIME WAS ON A FLAT STREET. FINALLY THE CAR IN 3 OF THE 4 OCCASIONS ALL INVOLVED INCLINES OF DIFFERENT GRADES.

WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY FOR A SHORT ROAD TRIP THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHT AND BELL CAME ON SAYING THAT THE ENGINE WAS OVERHEATING. PULLED OVER ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND POPPED THE HOOD TO FIND THE RADIATOR WET AND SMELLING SWEET. I LIMPED THE CAR THE FEW MILES AND HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THE DEALER SHIP STATED THAT THE RADIATOR FAN WAS LOOSE CAUSING THE BLADE TO RUB A WHOLE IN THE RADIATOR CAUSING A HOLE TO FORM. THEY ALSO REPLACED THE OIL IN THE CAR TO ENSURE THAT THE OIL WAS NOT COMPROMISED AFTER GETTING SO HOT. REPLACED WITH HAVOLINE SYNTHETIC.

FIRST WINTER WITH THE CAR AND I HAD A WEIRD SOUND COMING FROM THE STEERING WHEN TURNING. I SET UP AN APPOINTMENT WITH THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. THEY TOOK THE CAR IN AND FOUND THAT THERE WAS ICE PACKED AROUND STEERING RACK. THE CAR IS PARKED OUTSIDE ON THE STREET OR ALSO OFF THE ROAD IN MY DRIVEWAY. THIS HAS HAPPENED EVERY YEAR SINCE I HAVE OWNED THE CAR BUT I HAVE ONLY TAKEN IT DOWN ONCE. WHEN I CALL THE APPOINTMENT IS USUALLY DAYS OUT. NY WINTERS.

CAR WAS INVOLVED IN A LEFT FRONTAL/UNDERCARRIAGE ACCIDENT AFTER BEING RUN OFF THE INTERSTATE BY AN INATTENTIVE DRIVER. VEHICLE WAS TRAVELLING AT APPROXIMATELY 40MPH UPON IMPACT WITH A LARGE DRAIN GRATE IN A POTHOLE. IMPACT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SUFFICIENT ENOUGH TO DEPLOY THE FRONTAL AIRBAGS. SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS DEPLOYED, FRONT AIRBAGS DID NOT. VEHICLE WAS DEEMED A TOTAL LOSS. NO MAJOR INJURIES OCCURRED, ONLY MINOR BRUISING AND BURNS AS A RESULT OF SIDE CURTAIN AIR BAG DEPLOYMENT. DRIVER AND TWO CHILDREN WERE INSIDE THE VEHICLE UPON IMPACT, ALL PROPERLY RESTRAINED BY SEAT BELTS. POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. EMERGENCY MEDICAL AND FIRE WERE DISPATCHED AS WELL. ACCIDENT OCCURRED ON INTERSTATE 95 S, IN SAVANNAH, GA.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY MY HEADLIGHTS SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. LEAVING US DRIVING IN THE DARK. IT HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES ESPECIALLY WHEN TRYING TO USE BLINKERS OR SWITCH HIGH BEAMS ON OR OFF. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAY IT'S THE MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH AND WANT 372.84 TO REPLACE IT. MY WARRANTY HAS JUST RUN OUT AND I HAVE ALREADY HAD TO REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT AND NOW THIS IS OUT AS WELL AS THE BACK DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW, IT'S A 2017. I FEEL THE SWITCH AND POSSIBLY THE BACK DOOR ACTUATOR MUST BE FAULTY.

SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRIVING IN THE DARK WHEN SWITCHING FROM LOW TO HIGH BEAMS OR HIGH TO LOW BEAMS, ALL LIGHTS GO OFF CAUSING A VERY BAD SAFETY ISSUE! THEY COME BACK ON AFTER SEVERAL SECONDS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED OR WHILE DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND JERKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KEN GARFF HYUNDAI (717 SOUTH WEST TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84101, 801-257-3200) WHERE THE DUAL CLUTCH WAS RESET; HOWEVER, THE REPAIR DID NOT CORRECT THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO YOUNG HYUNDAI (333 WALL AVENUE, OGDEN UT, 84401) WHERE IT WAS KEPT FOR SIX DAYS. THE DEALER CLEANED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200.

I HAD BEFORE A CAR HYUNDAY ELANTRA 2013, AND THAT CAR HAS RECALL BECAUSE HAVE SOME PROBLEMS WITH THE BREAKS, AND AFTER THAT CARR I BUYED A HYUNDAY ELANTRA 2017, ITS WAS THE SAME THINK WITH THE BREAKS WHEN THE ROAD WAS WET THE BREAKS DO NOT WORK AND THEY MAKE A NOISE, I HAD ACCIDENT WHEN WAS RAINING MY CAR HIT WITH THE CONCRETE FENCE, THE CRASH WAS SO BAD BUT ITNS VERY RARE , THE CAR IS TOTAL LOST AND THE AIRBAGS NEVER WAS DEPLOYED PLEASE CAN YOU INVESTIGATE THAT ISSUE , BECAUSE I THINK THE AIRBAG NEVER WORKS. I DONT KNOW WHAT KINDA OR MAKE AIR BAGS ARE..I AM OK BUT THAT WHY A LOT O PEOPLE DIE.MY CAR WAS IN MOTION IN A HIGHWAY

WHEN DRIVING AT SLOW SPEEDS ON ISDE STREETS IT IS DIFFICULT TO TURN THE VEHICLE, FEELS LIKE STEERING WHEEL IS ABOUT TO LOCK UP. THERE ARE RECALLS ON 2017 HYUNDIA ELANTRAS BUT WHEN I CALLED THEY SAID NOT ON MY VEHICLE. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AS OTHER 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRAS BUT MIGHT ISN'T COVERED?

MY CAR INTERMITTENTLY BEGINS TO IDLE ROUGH AND STALL WHILE IN DRIVE. THE SYSTEM CHECK IN THE CAR NORMALLY REVEALS NOTHING. ON OCCASION IT WILL GIVE A MESSAGE REGARDING THE EMS. , I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, AND ASK THEM TO CHECK AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG. THIS CHECK WAS DONE AT APPROXIMATELY 59,000 MILES. AFTER THE SYSTEM CHECK AT THE DEALERSHIP THE AUTOMOBILE STOP HAVING STALLING PROBLEMS FOR A WHILE. THE CAR IS NOW AT 76000 + MILES AND IS BEGINNING TO STALL AGAIN WHILE IN DRIVE. IT IS ALSO SHOWING SIGNS OF IDLING ROUGH WITH NO INDICATOR OR SYSTEM CHECK REVEALING ANY PROBLEM. JUST RECENTLY IT HAS BEGIN TO STALL AGAIN AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON INTERMITTENTLY AND THEN GOES BACK OFF. THIS PRESENTS A SAFETY HAZARD WHEN DRIVING OR TRANSPORTING OTHERS. SPECIFICALLY, ROUGH IDLING CAN HAPPEN WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK. STALLING OF THE ENGINE OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS IN DRIVE ONLY OR IN REVERSE GEAR.

WHEN I GO AROUND CURVES (LEFT HAND) MY TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WILL FLASH AND I WILL NOT HAVE CONTROL OVER MY BRAKES (IT WILL FEEL AS IF I AM HYDROPLANING) THIS OCCURS RANDOMLY AND FOR NOT SET REASON/ I AM NOT SPEEDING OR HITTING MY BRAKES WHEN THIS OCCURS. I HAVE BEEN TOLD FROM MY DEALERSHIP THAT I NEEDED TIRES, I GOT TIRES, AND IT IS STILL HAPPENING.

WHILE TRYING TO INCREASE SPEED TO GET ON HIGHWAY THE RPM INCREASED BUT MY CAR WOULD NOT SPEED UP. HAS HAPPENED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT AND REAR PASSENGER DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

3 OUT OF 4 OF MY DOORS DO NOT OPEN ON MY ELANTRA WHICH IS A SAFETY HAZARD IF AN ACCIDENT WERE TO OCCUR, THINLY DOOR THAT OPENS IS THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR!

MY ELANTRA TURNED OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT, WITHIN 30 MINUTES THE CAR TURNED OFF 3 FREAKING TIMES, WHICH ALMOST CAUSED AN ACCIDENT BUT I MANAGED TO TURN VEHICLE ON RIGHT AWAY AND MOVE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. NO WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS CAME, THANK GOD I WAS ALONE AND DID NOT HAVE MY 5 YEAR OLD WITH ME. HYUNDAI NEEDS TO REALLY LOOK INTO ALL THESE PROBLEMS ASAP

STATIONARY VEHICLE WITH OEM HANKOOK TIRES DEVELOPED SEVERE SIDEWALL CRACKING, NECESSITATING REPLACEMENT. WARRANTY WOULD NOT COVER REPLACEMENT AS THEY WOULD NOT COVER TIRE DAMAGE WHEN VEHICLE NOT IN MOTION. DEALERSHIP SAID THEY WOULD ATTEMPT TO CONTACT MANUFACTURER, AND WOULD REACH OUT IF A PARTIAL CREDIT WAS AVAILABLE. NO WORD AT THIS TIME.

ENGINE DIES INTERMITTENTLY AT VARIOUS SPEEDS. RMP'S DROP, ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND ENGINE DIES. AT TIMES THERE WILL BE A SHAKE FROM THE ENGINE AND A LOUD RUMBLING SOUND WHILE THE FAN WAS ON PRIOR TO ENGINE SHUTTING OFF. VEHICLE DOES RESTART IMMEDIATELY 90% OF THE TIME AND DRIVES NORMAL. THESE EPISODES HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRIVING. AT ONE POINT I HAD MY CHILD IN THE VEHICLE, I WAS ENTERING THE INTERSTATE AND THE ENTRANCE RAMP WAS ONTO THE FAST LANE IN RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. I WAS TRAVELING AT A FAST SPEED OF APPROX. 65-70 MPH AS MY VEHICLE STALLED ONCE AGAIN, I LOST CONTROL OF STEERING POWER. THERE WERE SEVERAL VEHICLES BEHIND ME THAT HAD TO SLAM ON THEIR BRAKES AND VEER OFF THE ROAD TO AVOID HITTING ME. IT WAS A VERY SCARY SITUATION TO BE IN, NEVERTHELESS UNSAFE. MY VEHICLE HAS BEEN SERVICED WITH MY LOCAL HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES AS OF TODAY. IT'S GOING BACK TODAY FOR A 4TH ATTEMPT. SERVICE CALL #1: CANNOT DUPLICATE AND NO CODES PRESENT, BRING BACK WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN. SERVICE CALL #2: CANNOT DUPLICATE AND NO CODES PRESENT, RESET ADAPTIVE VALUES AND ROAD TESTED RESCANNED NO CODES PRESENT, BRING BACK IF ANY OTHER ISSUES. SERVICE CALL #3: FINALLY GOT A DUPLICATION, NO CODES PRESENT STILL, REPLACED FRONT ENGINE COVER AND EXHAUST CVVT PHASER PER HYUNDAI TECH LINE. AFTER HAVING MY VEHICLE BACK FOR THE THIRD ATTEMPT THE ENGINE DIES TWICE WITHIN 45 MINUTES.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAPPENED WHEN DRIVING ON THE ROAD THE CAR STARTED SHAKING IT WOULD NOT INCREASE IN SPEED TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER IT WAS THE IGNITION COIL #3 THE DEALER STATED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND MIGHT HAPPEN AGAIN AS HYUNDAI WILL NOT COVER TO REPLACE ALL 4 COILS JUST THE BAD ONE THAT WAS IN MAY 2019 NOW IT STARTED SHAKING AGAIN THIS TIME I WAS BACKING UP OUT OF A PARKING SPOT IT IS IGNITION COIL #4 ONLY 3 MONTHS LATER I HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND WAI FOR THE SHAKING TO STOP BLOCKING TRAFFIC

REAR UPPER BUMPER BECAME LOOSE AND FELL OFF OF CAR WHILE DRIVING ON SOUTH PARKWAY FRONT FENDER IS LOOSE AS WELL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY SHUT OFF. MOMENTS LATER, AFTER RESTARTING THE ENGINE, THE VEHICLE OPERATED NORMALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. FLINT HILLS HYUNDAI (7920 E. HIGHWAY 24, MANHATTAN, KS) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

THE VEHICLE ORIGINAL PAINT JOB IS PEELING, HOOD, ROOF , NO INDICATION OF HAIL DAMAGE, ACCIDENT OR ETC...

'TAKATA RECALL' I HAVE NOTICED THAT MY TRANSMISSION SKIPS OR JERKS RANDOMLY. AS I'M DRIVING ON THE STREETS OR ON THE HIGHWAY... MY RPM'S WILL JUMP UP TO 3, 4, OR SOMETIMES 5 WHEN I'M DRIVING AND HOLDING STEADY AT 2 RPM'S. I ALWAYS DRIVE THE SPEED LIMIT AND NEVER FLOOR MY GAS PEDAL. IT ALSO WILL FEEL LIKE IT'S NOT CATCHING THE GEARS CORRECTLY AND WILL JERK. THIS IS SOMETHING I HAVE NOTICED OVER THE YEARS WITH MY CAR BUT SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE OVER TIME. I DO ALSO HAVE TROUBLE IF I CHANGE MY DRIVE MODE TO 'SPORT'. THE TRANSMISSION DOESN'T SEEM TO GRIP THE GEARS WHEN NEEDED SO I NEVER REALLY USE THE SPORT MODE.

MY CAR WAS PARKED AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I NOTICED THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS TURNED ON. THERE WAS AN INCIDENT WHERE I LIVE THAT THE FIRE ALARM WENT OFF IN THE APARTMENT BUILDING AND I JUST HAPPENED TO BE STANDING OUTSIDE AND MY CAR'S EXTERIOR LIGHTS TURNED ON BY THEMSELVES. I HAD MY KEY AND I TRIED TO TURN OFF THE CAR REMOTELY, BUT THE LIGHTS WOULD NOT SHUT OFF. I HAD TO GO TO MY CAR, TURN IT ON, AND THEN SHUT IT OFF. THE SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN THE NEXT DAY ABOUT THE SAME TIME AROUND 11 P.M. I DID THE SAME THING. TURNED THE CAR ON AND OFF AND THEN SHUT IT OFF AND USED THE KEY REMOTE TO LOCK IT. WHAT IS WORSE, WHILE I WAS DRIVING AT NIGHT, I HAD MY RIGHT BLINKER ON TO MAKE A RIGHT TURN, AND I NOTICED THE HEAD LAMPS COMPLETELY WENT DARK WHEN I TURNED AND I DIDN'T DO ANYTHING, THE HEAD LIGHTS CAME BACK ON BY THEMSELVES. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION TO BE IN. PLEASE MAKE NOTE OF THIS.

RECENTLY MY VEHICLE STARTED HAVING AN ISSUE WITH THE HEADLIGHTS INTERMITTENTLY GOING OUT WHILE DRIVING. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES NOW AND NO ROOT CAUSE CAN BE FOUND, THIS OCCURS WITH NO WARNING AND WHILE DRIVING AT SPEED. THERE ARE ALSO NO LIGHTS OR MESSAGES DISPLAYING. VERY SCRAY ON A DARK RURAL ROAD WITHOUT WARNING.

OVER THE COURSE OF MY OWNERSHIP MY SUN VISORS BOTH DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER HAVE LOOSENED AND NOW HAVE COME LOOSE FROM THE HOUSING, CAUSING THEM TO NOT WORK PROPERLY. THEY NOW WILL NOT STAY UP COMPLETELY AND WHEN YOU HIT A BUMP THEY POP DOWN UNEXPECTEDLY HAMPERING YOUR VISION CAUSING A HUGE HAZARD. THIS HAPPENS EVERY TIME I DRIVE AND HAVE TO REMOVE THEM AND TRY TO FIND REPLACEMENTS TO KEEP FROM DIEING ON THE HIGHWAY.

THERE IS A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. THERE IS LOSS OF POWER . ENGINE DOES NOT RUN PROPERLY. CORRECTLY. THE DEALERSHIP CAN NOT FIND A FAULT CODE SO CAN NOT FIX IT. THE CAR IS STILL UNDER FULL WARRANTY WITH PREMIUM EXTENDED WARRANTY

MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON SEVERAL TIMES THE CAR STARTS TO ACT LIKE IT'S GOING TO STALL THEN THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THERE IS LIKE NO POWER TO THE CAR A YEAR AGO I WAS DRIVING UP A OVERPASS AND MY CAR STALLED AND THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON I SERIOUSLY COULD OF GOT KILLED I WANT ANSWERS TO WHY THE ENGINE LIGHT AND THE CAR STARTS TO BREAK DOWN APPARENTLY I FEEL IT'S THE ENGINE OR THE POWER SYSTEM IS FAILING .

SINCE I HAVE HAD THE CAR FROM 2017 TO NOW, THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN ISSUE WITH THE ENGINE. THE CAR WILL SHAKE AND THEN SLOW FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THE ENGINE LIGHT WILL POP ON. THE BREAKS ARE SOMETIMES VERY HARD. I SOMETIMES HAVE TO PUSH HARDER ON THEM, BUT THEN THEY MAKE A WEIRD NOISE. IT IS QUITE SCARY.

BACK DOOR ON DRIVERS SIDE WILL NOT OPEN. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF CAR IN AN EMERGENCY. I HAVE SEEN ON THE INTERNET SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN. I THINK HYUNDAI SHOULD HAVE TO COVER THE COST OF GETTING THIS FIXED EVEN IF IT IS OUT OF WARRANTY FOR MILEAGE.

DRIVER DOOR WHEN IT IS UNLOCKING WE CANNOT OPEN IT FROM THE OUTSIDE. THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR DOES NOT OPEN AT ALL. IT HASN'T OPENED IN A FEW MONTHS. I DON'T USE THE BACK OF THE CAR BEING AS IT'S JUST ME AND MY HUSBAND. TODAY WE TOOK MY IN-LAWS TO THE STORE AND MY FATHER IN LAW COULDN'T BUCKLE BECAUSE THE THING THAT HOLDS THE SEAT BELT WAS LOCKED DOWNWARD AND WOULD NOT LATCH.

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA IS HAVING SOME TYPE OF MANUFACTURE DEFECT IN THE PAINT JOB. IT STARTED OUT AS ONE SPOT ON THE DRIVER SIDE ON THE HOOD OF THE CAR WHERE THE PAINT LIFTED JUST FROM WIND RESISTANT AND HARD RAIN. THE PAINT BEGAN TO CHIP AROUND THE AREA AND PUCKLE UP. A COUPLE DAYS LATER ON PASSENGER SIDE ANOTHER AREA POPPED UP WITH THE SAME THING HAPPENING. ABOUT A WEEK LATER TWO DIFFERENT AREAS WERE SPOTTED ON THE ROOF ON THE CAR. THE CLEAR COAT AND PAINT HAS COMPLETELY LIFTED AND IT'S DOWN TO THE FRAME OF THE CAR. OVER THE WEEKS OF STILL HAVING TO DRIVE THE CAR AND HAVING INCLEMENT WEATHER THESE AREAS HAVE GROWN BIGGER. I'M AFRAID IF NOT FIXED SOON THE AREAS WILL BEGAN TO RUST AS WELL AS WILL THIS ALSO HAPPEN ON OTHER AREAS OF THE CAR. DEFINITELY NOT GOOD FOR A BRAND NEW CAR.

ON AUG 26, 2018 THE CAR STARTED MISSING WHILE DRIVING. IGNITION COIL WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY AND REPLACED BY THE DEALER. THIS WAS THE SECOND INCIDENT INVOLVING AN IGNITION COIL WITH THIS VEHICLE.

THE SEAL ON THE BACK DOORS KEPT COMING OFF AND PEOPLE ALMOST TRIPPED TRYING TO GET OUT THE DOOR. HAD TO PURCHASE SEALANT TO AND LINE IT UP ON THE DOOR. BUT IT WAS SO EMBRASSING.

THE CHECK OIL LIGHT NEVER CAME ON, IT'S A MALFUNCTION. THE WAS NO OIL IN THE CAR, I HAVE REGULAR OIL CHANGES, BUT THE ENGINE CEASED DUE TO LACK OF OIL AND NEVER ANY WARNING. NEVER "CHECK OIL LIGHT" OR "OIL LOW" NOTHING. WHEN AAA TOWED THEY TOLD ME OIL WAS LEAKING THAT WHEN WE CHECKED. THE ENGINE IS GONE AND COSTING ME $2,600 TO REPLACE ON A 2017 UGH. THE CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET AT 3AM IN THE MORNING. IT WAS DRIVING ALONG AND JUST STOPPED. THE DAY BEFORE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND WE HAD IT CHECKED OUT AND THE CODE WAS P0011 "INTAKE CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING.

VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY, POWER STEERING COMPLETELY WENT AWAY MAKING THE VEHICLE OPERATOR TAKE MORE EFFORT TO BE ABLE TO TURN, MAKING IT MORE PRONE TO COLLISIONS AT LOWER SPEEDS. CAUSE IS UNKNOWN AT THIS TIME. SAME YEAR/MAKE/MODEL CARS WERE ALSO RECALLED FOR SAME ISSUE, HYUNDAI'S RECALL NUMBER FOR THIS WAS 17V213000.

I KEEP ON HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY 2017 HYUNDAI AND DUE TO MY WARRANTY BEING OVER I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO OTHER THAN SUBMIT A COMPLAINT, I BOUGHT VEHICLE NEW AND THIS IS MY FIRST HYUNDAI AND MY LAST. I HAVE A 4 DOOR ELANTRA AND THE ONLY DOOR THAT OPENS WITHOUT A PROBLEM IS THE DRIVER DOOR. THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR OPENS ONLY FROM THE INSIDE THE THE BACK SEAT OF DRIVER DOOR YOU HAVE TO PUSH THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE THEN OPEN AND JUST TODAY THE BACKSEAT PASSENGER DOES NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. I DID GOOGLE AND NOTICED THAT THEIR HAVE BEEN OTHERS WITH SAME PROBLEMS. IS IT POSSIBLE TO ISSUE A RECALL THIE DOORS NOT OPENING IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE, ESPECIALLY IN A LIFE OR DEATH SITUATION

I BOUGHT A USED HYUNDAI ELANTRA FROM GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI IT HAS BEEN RAINING AND AS I CROSSED THRU A FLOODED INTERSECTION SUDDENLY THERE WAS S TERRIBLE SOUND THEN MY FRONT WHEELS WERE MAKING THIS GRINDING NOISE I PULLED INTO THE GAS STATION AND UPON INSPECTING NOTICE THAT SOME PART OF THE CAR WAS DISLODGE UNDER MY CAR AND UNDER THE PASSENGER FRONT WHEEL , , I HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND WAS TOLD AN INSPECTION COVER HAD COME OFF AND IT WOULD BE A FEW DAYS BEFORE THE PART WOULD BE IN , GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI SERVICE DEPARTMENT CALL AND SAID THE CAR WAS READY UPON WAITING IN THE SERVICE AREA THEY FINALLY BROUGHT THE CAR I RECEIVED A BILL IN THE AMOUNT OF $1380 I ASK SHOULDN'T IT BE COVER UNDER THE MANUFACTURES WARRANTY HE SAID NO THEN EXPLAINS WHAT HAPPEN HE SAID THAT I CAUSED IT , I CAUSED IT ? LET'S SEE WAS IT WHEN I PUT MY NEW BORN IN THE CAR OR WHEN I PUT GAS IN IT , HE SAID NO YOU CRASH IT ! THERE IS NOT ONE MARK IN THAT CAR ,HE THEN EXPLAINS THAT THE INSPECTION COVER INSPECTION COVER MOUNTS INSIDE THE FRONT BUMPER AND THAT IT CAME OUT WHEN YOU CRASH THE FRONT BUMPER , MY DAD CHECK AN ELANTRA THAT HAD JUST BEEN SERVICE AND THE INSPECTION COVER WAS INSTALLED UNDER THE BUMPER I HAVE A PHOTO OF THIS WE LOOK AT MINE AND IT WAS MOUNTED INSIDE THE FRONT BUMPER IT WASN'T TILL LATER MY DAD & I WERE TALKING AND EXCHANGED INFORMATION THAT WE NOW HAD A CLEAR PICTURE OF WHAT REALLY HAPPEN ,, GARDEN GROVE HYUNDAI SERVICE DEPARTMENT HAD INSTALLED THE INSPECTION COVER UNDER THE BUMPER IT MADE TRIKE A SNOW PLOW SO WHEN I DROVE THRU THE FLOODED INTERSECTION IT WORK AS A PLOW THE FORCE OF THE WATER RIP IT OFF BLAMING ME FOR THIS REPAIR , AND CHARGING $1380 AND BILLING ME FIR THE REPAIR ?

THE HEATED SEATS HAS MADE AN IMPRINTS ON THE SEATS. LOOKS LIKE A FIRE HAZARD TO ME. I DID NOT NOTICE THIS UNTIL THIS WINTER.

TAKATA RECALL. I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY AND TRIED TO SPEED UP, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR WAS NOT SPEEDING UP OR SLOWING DOWN VERY WELL. IT WAS SLIGHTLY SHAKING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED OFF AND THE CAR WAS WORKING NORMAL AGAIN, BUT THEN THE CAR SCREEN STARTED FLASHING AND ENDED UP SHUTTING OFF.

ENGINE COILS HAD TO BE REPLACED OR SWITCHED OUT TWO TIMES IN TWO WEEKS. CAR STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF DRIVING AFTER IT WAS "FIXED" THE FIRST TIME. CAUSING A DANGEROUS SITUATION

AIRBAG LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON AND OFF AT RANDOM TIMES. WHEN THE VEHICLE IS MOVING NO SPECIFIC WAY OF DRIVING JUST DRIVING

I HAVE A REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL LEAK IN MY CAR. I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TODAY, 4/4/19 AND WAS TOLD THAT IT IS AN ISSUE DO TO AN ACCIDENT. I DID NOT HAVE AN ACCIDENT THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS ISSUE. I WAS TOLD THAT NOW I HAVE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION. THIS CAR IS A 2017 WITH 27,400 MILES. I DID NOT HAVE AN ACCIDENT THAT WOULD CAUSE THIS ISSUE.

1. LOW RPM APPROX 300, ROUGH IDLE. A/C USAGE INCRESES THE RANDOM INTERMITTENT OCCURRENCE. 40,000 MILES WHEN ISSUE WAS NOTICED. 2. RELAY SWITCH, RAPIDLY TURNS ON AND OFF. USUALLY AT STOPS AND IDLE. (SOUND LOCATION UNDER HOOD/ ENGINE COMPARTMENT.) 32,000 MILES WHEN ISSUES WAS NOTICED. 3. PASSENGER SIDE, FRONT OCCUPANT SEAT SENSOR. OVERLY SENSATIVE, WARNING FOR SEAT BELT WHEN NO PASSENGER. CELL PHONE AND OR WEIGHT LESS THAN 5 LBS. 5,000 MILES WHEN ISSUED WAS NOTICED

THE ENGINE STARTED TO MAKE A LOUD TICKING/KNOCK WHEN COLD. HYUNDAI WILL NOT DO ANYTHING SAYING IT IS "NORMAL". THIS CAR HAS A 2.0 LITER NU ENGINE ON THE ATKINSON CYCLE. THERE WERE RECALLS IN THE PAST FOR THE NU ENGINE AND IT LOOKS LIKE THERE NEEDS TO BE ANOTHER ONE.

MY CAR HAVE PROBLEM WITH ELECTRIC SYSTEM THE BRAKE LIGHT FAIL EVERY 2 WEEKS. WHEN CHANGE THE SHIFT TO DRIVE TO REVERSE LOSS THE REVERSE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER AND FAILED TO ACCELERATE. ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT POWERED OFF THE ENGINE WHILE IN TRAFFIC. ONCE RESTARTED, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, THE VEHICLE WOULD STALL AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, WHERE IT WAS POWERED OFF AND RESTARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS LATER TAKEN TO ATLANTIC HYUNDAI (LOCATED AT 193 SUNRISE HWY NORTH SERVICE RD, WEST ISLIP, NY 11795, (631) 587-0700), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,000.

MOST OF THE HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHITE CARS PAINT IS COMING OFF. THE PAINT STARTED CHIPPING AND COMING OFF WITH MY CAR. MY CAR IS A 2017 AND I HAD IT LESS THAN 2 YRS. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY DID ADMIT THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MOST OF THE WHITE CARS PAINT COMING OFF. THEY PAID 90% OF THE REPAIR TO MY CAR BUT I HAD TO STILL COME OUT OF POCKET OF $565 AND THEY DIDN'T PUT ME IN A RENTAL WHILE MY CAR WAS GETTINF REPAIRED. I FELT LIKE EVERYTHING WAS UNFAIR AND THIS PROBLEM WITH HYUNDAI WHITE CAR NEED TO BE ADDRESS AS A RECALL.

MY CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF WHEN TRAVELING AT A SLOW SPEED. I COULD BE CRUISING TO A RED LIGHT AND THE CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. TRAFFIC ON THE INTERSTATE AND I NEED TO SLOW DOWN...YOU CAN BET MY CAR WILL SHUT OFF. GOING UP A HILL...MY CAR WILL COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. I WAS ALMOST IN AN ACCIDENT TWO DAYS AGO; AS I SLOWED DOWN TO TRAVEL UP A SMALL HILL TO THE PARKING GARAGE, MY CAR SHUTS OFF AND THE CAR BEHIND ME HAD TO SLAM ON BREAKS. EACH TIME I HAVE TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND RESTART THE CAR. THIS IS NOT A FUEL SAVING ISSUE AS HYUNDAI DOESN'T NOT OFFER THAT TECHNOLOGY/OPTION. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN AS THE CAR STALLS WHEN TRAFFIC IS EXPECTED TO BE MOVING. I HAVE NOW TAKEN MY CAR IN TWICE FOR THIS ISSUE.

I HAVE A 2017 ELANTRA SPORT. I CHECK MY TIRE PRESSURE MONTHLY, BUT NOTICED THIS LAST TIME THAT I LOST MORE THAN THE NORMAL 1 OR 2 PSI. AFTER VISUAL INSPECTION, BOTH FRONT TIRES HAVE DEEP CRACKS AROUND THE MAJORITY OF TIRES. I DID SOME GOOGLE SEARCHING AND FOUND RECALLS FOR THE VENTUS S NOBLE 2 BACK IN 2016. I TRIED CALLING MY LOCAL DEALER, BUT THEY HAVE NOT BEEN MUCH HELP, REFERRING ME TO HANKOOK. I CALLED THE HANKOOK SERVICE LINE 800 426-5665, IT JUST RINGS AND THEN TRANSFERS TO A VOICEMAIL THAT IS FULL, AND CANNOT TAKE ANYMORE MESSAGES BECAUSE THE MAILBOX IS FULL. MY TIRE IS A HANKOOK 225/40/18. I READ ONLINE HOW THESE SPECIFIC TIRES CAN CAUSE BLOWOUT WHEN TURNING EVEN AT LOW SPEEDS. THIS IS MY DAUGHTERS CAR SHE USES FOR WORK AND COLLEGE. I WANT TO BE SURE SHE IS SAFE AS ANY PARENT WOULD WANT. ALTHOUGH, I DON'T SEEM TO BE GETTING ANYWHERE WITH EITHER HYUNDAI OR HANKOOK.

THREE DIFFERENT INDEPENDENT PROBLEMS. PASSENGER AIRBAG DASHBOARD KEEPS FLASHING. WEIRD WHEELS SOUND WHILE TURNING EITHER SIDE. PASSENGER'S SEAT BELT IS NOT FUNCTIONING.

THE CAR IS SLOW ACCELERATE LIKE SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH IT. IT STARTED THE YEAR 2018. THE CARE WAS PURCHASED 2/17/17 WITH 25 MILES ON IT. THE DEALER CLAIMS THEY CAN FIND NOTHING WRONG.

DOORS WILL NOT OPEN HAVE TO PULL THE HANDLE 5 OR 6 TIMES FOR THE DOOR TO FINALLY OPEN THE PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL FROM THE OUTSIDE YOU HAVE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE TO LET YOUR PASSENGER IN THE CAR. THE BACK DOOR ON DRIVER SIDE WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR AND BACK PASSENGER DOOR WILL OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE THE OTHER 2 DOORS EITHER WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL OR ONLY FROM INSIDE. IF WE WAS JUST HAVE AN ACCIDENT OR IF IT WAS TO CATCH FIRE WITH US INSIDE THEY WOULD HAVE TO BREAK THE WINDOWS OR CUT US OUT OF THE VEHICLE BECAUSE NONE OF THE DOORS WORK PROPERLY. THE DRIVER DOOR YOU HAVE TO HIT UNLOCK AND JERK THE HANDLE BOUT 5 OR 6 TIMES THEN IT WILL OPEN FINALLY. I'VE TOOK DOOR PANELS OFF EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP AND IN WORKING ORDER SO IT'S GTA BE A MALFUNCTION WITHIN THE LOCKS OR SOMETHING I CAN'T FIGURE WHAT ELSE IT CAN BE.

I'VE HAD MY REAR RIGHT DOOR ON CHILD LOCK FOR A WHILE NOW, I USE THAT DOOR EVERY DAY, BUT THE DOOR IS NOT OPENING ALL OF A SUDDEN, I TRIED PULLING THE HANDLE FROM OUTSIDE AND GIVING A GENTLE PUSH FROM INSIDE AT THE SAME TIME AND NOTHING. I'VE TRIED LOCKING AND UNLOCKING THE DOOR NUMEROUS TIMES AND STILL NOTHING. THE WINDOW AND THE LOCK WORK, SO I'M GUESSING IT'S SOMETHING WITH THE CHILD LOCK THAT IT'S STUCK OR SOMETHING.

POWER DRIVERS SEAT MOVES UNEXPECTEDLY WHEN MAKING TURNS AT INTERSECTIONS OR SHARP CORNERING. FEELS LIKE AN ISSUE WITH POWER SEAT MECHANISM/LOOSE FASTENERS. VERY UNEASY FEELING WHEN CORNERING WHICH I FEEL COULD CATCH A DRIVER OFF GUARD AND LEAD TO A LOSS OF CONTROL.

AT SPEEDS UNDER 40-45MPH, WHEN TURNING ONLY RIGHT, OVER BUMPY AND UNEVEN ROADS (RAILROAD TRACKS, MANHOLE COVERS, HUMPS IN THE ROAD, SEAMS IN CONCRETE), THERE IS A CLUNKING/CLICKING NOISE FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR WITH AN ACCOMPANYING FEELING IN STEERING/PEDALS. SUSPENSION DURING THESE SITUATIONS FEELS VERY LOOSE/UNSTEADY. FEELS LIKE CONTROL COULD BE LOST IF CAR IS NOT HANDLING PROPERLY.

I WAS DRIVING AND WAS T-BONED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG DEPLOYED LATE, HITTING ME IN THE HEAD AND TRAPPING ME AGAINST THE WINDOW. I HAVE A RESULTANT SHOULDER INJURY THAT MAY NOT HAVE HAPPENED WITH APPROPRIATE DEPLOYMENT.

I LEASED MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BRAND NEW. THE THERMOSTAT HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 3 DAYS AND THE CAR HAD HEAT FOR THE NEXT 3K MILES. SINCE THEN THE CAR HAS HAD POOR HEAT AND EVENTUALLY JUST STOPPED PRODUCING ANY HEAT. A HYUNDAI REP WAS ABLE TO RECREATE THE PROBLEM AND UPDATED THE COMPUTER IN MY CAR. HYUNDAI HAS SAID MY CAR HEAT HAS BEEN TESTED AND IS NOW OPERATIONAL. HOWEVER, MY CAR STILL HAS NO HEAT TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. THE CAR TAKES A HALF HOUR OF IDLING TO WARM UP THE ENGINE HALFWAY AND EVEN THEN THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE ANY HEAT TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD. I LIVE IN NEW ENGLAND WHERE IT'S VERY COLD IN THE WINTER AND CAN'T GET ENOUGH HEAT IN MY CAR TO DEFROST THE WINDSHIELD TO SEE TO DRIVE MY CAR. HYUNDAI REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING MORE ABOUT THE HEATING ISSUE, EVEN THOUGH IT'S UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE THEY SAY IT IS OPERATING AS DESIGNED. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE OUT THE WINDSHIELD.

34000 MILES, EQUIPPED WITH SMART KEY. KEY WAS FUNCTIONING, ALLOWING ENTRANCE AND UNLOCK/LOCK/ALARM FUNCTIONALITY, BUT CAR WOULD NOT START. USED ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE TO HAVE TOWED TO HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM AS A FAULTY STARTER. VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND HAD PREVIOUSLY SHOWN SOME HESITATION WITH EARLIER ATTEMPTS TO START.

PASSENGER WINDOW IF ROLLED DOWN IT WILL NOT GO UP RIGHT AWAY, AND PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. HAVE TO OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HANDLE.

DROVE CAR LESS THAN 20 MILES ROUND TRIP ON CITY STREETS, FOR A MORNING APPOINTMENT. WAS PARKED ABOUT 40 MINUTES DURING THE APPOINTMENT. RETURNED HOME AND PARKED, NO PROBLEM, NO TIRE PRESSURE PROBLEM INDICATED BY SENSORS. DEPARTED ON SECOND TRIP OF THE DAY LESS THAN 6 MILES FROM HOME FOR ANOTHER APPOINTMENT, PARKED FOR ABOUT 50 MINUTES. TIRE WAS COMPLETELY FLAT IN PARKING LOT AFTERWARDS. TOW OPERATOR PLACED MY SPARE TIRE ON, WE VISUALLY INSPECTED THE FALT TIRE AND THERE WAS NO VISIBLE DAMAGE TO TIRE OR RIM. I DROVE VEHICLE TO NEAREST HYUNDAI DEALER 3.5 MILES AWAY. DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT INSPECTED TIRE AND RIM WITH ME AGAIN, SAME CONCLUSION NO VISIBLE AND NO APPARENT DAMAGE. SERVICE DEPARTMENT DUNK TESTED THE TIRE, NO LEAK DETECTED. TIRE WAS RE-INFLATED AND PLACED BACK ON THE CAR. DROVE 2 MILES TO HOME AND PARKED. LESS THAN 2 HOUR LATER TIRE WAS COMPLETELY FLAT AGAIN. TIRE IS ON DRIVER (LEFT) SIDE REAR. VALVE STEM IS SNUG, NO APPARENT PROBLEM EXCEPT THAT TIRE NO LONGER REMAIN INFLATED. TIRE AND WHEEL RIM ARE DEALER/MANUFACTURER ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. TIRE IS BRANDED AS NEXEN NPRIZ AH8, SIZE IS 205/55R16 91H

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA FROM NON-HYUNDAI DEALER. AT THE TIME OF THE SALE, A SINGLE KEY WAS PROVIDED VERSUS A KEY FOB. AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR A SHORT TIME, THE ALARM WENT OFF ON THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS UNKNOWN TO ME THAT THE VEHICLE HAD AN ALARM. IT HAPPENED AGAIN WITHIN A COUPLE OF WEEKS AND THEN I LOOKED INTO THE ISSUE ONLY TO LEARN THAT THE VEHICLE WAS SOLD NEW WITH A FOB KEY. I WENT TO A HYUNDAI DEALER AND PURCHASED A FOB AND HAD IT PROGRAMMED FOR $185.00. MONEY I SHOULD NOT HAVE HAD TO SPEND. ALSO, THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE VEHICLE THAT THE USED CAR DEALER DID NOT UPDATE TO THE VEHICLE. IS IT LEGAL TO SELL A USED CAR WITHOUT FOB KEY AND NOT INCORPORATE ALL RECALLS?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT HAD TO SWERVE TO MISS ANOTHER VEHICLE; HOWEVER, WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE STRUCK A CURB, FLIPPED OVER, AND LANDED UPSIDE DOWN. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED THE SAME SYMPTOMS AS LISTED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V471000 (POWER TRAIN). ONLY THE DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG DEPLOYED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE TOW YARD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. IT WAS UNKNOWN IF THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE UNKNOWN.

I WAS DRIVING A SAFE DISTANCE BEHIND A CAR THAT CAME TO A SUDDEN STOP IN FRONT ON ME. THE CAR THAT STOPPED IN FRONT ON HER WAS AN OLDER MODEL EXPLORER 4 DR. THERE WAS ALSO A AT THAT SUDDENLY STOPPED IN FRONT OF THE EXPLORER . AS I APPLIED MY BRAKES IT WAS AS IF THE CAR WOULDN'T STOP. I'M NOT SUE IF THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME BRAKE LIGHTS WERE WORKING BECAUSE I CAN'T SEE HOW I HIT THE CAR FROM BEHIND ! MY CAR WAS TOTALED AND MY INSURANCE COMPANY DROPPED ME FOR THE ACCIDENT ! I WAS ON A CITY STREET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE LOST POWER WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND WAS ABLE TO DRIVE NORMALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TEAM HYUNDAI OF BEND (2250 NE HWY 20, BEND, OR 97701, (833) 236-6111) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE LACK OF OIL CHANGES CAUSED THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND OPENED CASE NUMBER: 11617234. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 26,400.

COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED TO BOTH NUMBER 2 AND NUMBER 3 CYLINDERS AND THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE 20K ON IT YET. THE SYMPTOMS WERE POOR PERFORMANCE, INCLUDING A FEELING LIKE THE VEHICLE WAS GOING TO STALL AND THE INABILITY TO GO MUCH OVER 45 MPH. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON BOTH TIMES THAT THIS HAPPENED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA EQUIPPED WITH HANKOOK TIRES, TIRE LINE: VENUS S1 NOBLE 2, TIRE SIZE: 225/40/R18 N/A WITH A SPEED RATING OF 88W, DOT #: 5MRL1AH4716. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TURNING INTO A DRIVEWAY AT 15 MPH, THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE EXPERIENCED A BLOWOUT. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT ALL THREE OF THE VEHICLE'S TIRES WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR TIRE, EXPERIENCED SEVERE CRACKING AND PEELING AROUND THE SIDEWALLS. CNS CAR COMPANY (812 WASHINGTON ST, WATERLOO, IOWA 50702 (319-291-7321)) WAS CONTACTED REGARDING THE FAILURE AND SCHEDULED THE CONTACT AN APPOINTMENT TO INSPECT AND REPLACED THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THERE WAS NO WARRANTY COVERAGE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE OF THE OEM EQUIPMENT WAS INITIALLY 4,500. THE FAILURE MILEAGE ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE AND VEHICLE WAS APPROXIMATELY 18,000.

THE CAR WAS PURCHASED AS A NEW CAR WITH 3 MILES ON THE ODOMETER FROM AN AUTHORIZED HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN JUNE 2016. IN AUGUST 2018, THE CAR WAS DRIVEN FOR A LITTLE OVER 30,000 (HIGHWAY)MILES AND WAS CHECKED FOR THE 30K-MILE-SERVICE AT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP. THE DAY AFTER, ENGINE CHECK LINE TURNED ON AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN SHAKING HEAVILY IN BOTH HIGH AND LOW SPEED. ALTHOUGH I KNEW THAT THE ISSUE WAS RELATED TO THE ENGINE MISFIRE, AND WAS ABLE TO PROVIDE A OBDII SCAN RESULTS FROM AUTOZONE, BUT THE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP COMPLETELY IGNORED ALL INFORMATION I PROVIDED. IN FACT, THEY BOASTED ABOUT HOW WELL THEIR "HYUNDAI SCANNERS" ARE THE ONLY SCANNERS THAT CAN CORRECTLY SCAN THE VEHICLE. CONSEQUENTLY, I HAD TO MAKE FOUR VISITS TO THE DEALERSHIP WITHIN FIVE DAYS IN ORDER FOR THEM TO ADMIT THEIR MISTAKE AND FIX THE PROBLEM. HOWEVER, NOW THE ENGINE IS STILL THROTTLING IN AN UNUSUAL MANNER AT A VERY SUBTLE LEVEL. I SPOKE TO THE HYUNDAI'S REGIONAL CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER ABOUT HOW THIS MISFIRE COULD LEAD TO DANGEROUS SITUATIONS ON A HIGHWAY WHERE A DRIVER'S AT A GREATER RISK IN HIGHER SPEED TRAFFIC. BUT THE RESPONSE WAS SIMPLY ADVISING ME TO CONTINUE VISITING THE DEALERSHIP.

BOUGHT CAR BRAND NEW, FROM DEALER. ALL 4 HANKOOK VENTUS S1 NOBLE2 TIRES EXHIBIT CRACKING AND SEPARATION ON SIDEWALL OF TIRES, INSIDE HUB AND EXTERNAL. THIS IS NOT OZONE CRACKING. DEALERSHIP DETERMINED DEFECTIVE TIRE BASED ON MAINTENANCE RECORDS, VISUAL INSPECTION AND TIRE CARE. THIS ISSUE IS IDENTICAL TO ONE DESCRIBED IN PREVIOUS HANKOOK TIRE RECALL FROM JANUARY 2016, EXCEPT FOR TIRE SIZE AND DOT. HANKOOK TIRES WANT TO ISSUE PARTIAL CREDIT. TIRES ARE UNSAFE FOR USE AS DEALERSHIP MENTIONED ONE POT HOLE AND A BLOWOUT WILL OCCUR.

I FIRST EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM 08/14/18 DRIVING HOME FROM WORK ON I295N, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR DIDN'T WANT TO ACCELERATE. ON 08/16/18 THE SAME PROBLEM OCCURRED BUT THIS TIME IT LASTED UNTIL I MADE IT LATE THAT EVENING. I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI OF ORANGE PARK 08/17/18 HERE IN JACKSONVILLE AND THE PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK 08/22/18 MY CAR STARTED DOING THE SAME THING ONLY THIS TIME YOU COULD FEEL THE VIBRATION OF THE CAR NOT WANTING TO ACCELERATE AND THE CHECK ENGINE WOULD GO OFF AS I'M CHANGING GEARS AND SOON AS I AM DONE SHIFTING IT STAYS ILLUMINATED.I CALLED THE SERVICE CENTER AGAIN AND SHE SAYS TO BRING IT BACK IN FOR TESTING AND THEY CAN ONLY FIX IT IF THEY CAN DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. I AM VERY UNCOMFORTABLE WITH DRIVING THIS VEHICLE IN TRAFFIC NOT KNOWING IF IT WILL CUTOFF AND I AM HIT.

WHILE THE CAR WAS SITTING IN THE DRIVE, THE CAR WAS TURNED OFF ALL OF THE LIGHTS EXCEPT THE HEADLIGHTS AND REVERSE LIGHTS TURNED ON. THE ONLY WAY I COULD TURN THEM OFF IS IF I TURNED THE CAR ON AND BACK OFF. IT HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 DAYS. THE FIRST TWO TIMES IT HAPPENED WAS ABOUT 2 HOURS APART FROM EACH OTHER. THE SECOND TIME THE LIGHTS TURNED OFF ON THEIR OWN WITHIN 30 MINUTES. THE THIRD TIME I WAS AT WORK AND AM NOT SURE HOW LONG THE LIGHTS WERE ON BUT I WALKED OUT OF WORK TO THEM ON.

I PURCHASED A BRAND NEW 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA EX CAR OFF THE LOT THAT CAME STOCK WITH ALL NEXEN TIRES. WITHIN THE FIRST COUPLE OF MONTHS, UNDER 2000 MILES, I NOTICED THE TIRE LOOKED LIKE THE RUBBER WAS SHREDDING AND SAW SIDEWALL BUBBLING. HAD TO PAY FOR A NEW TIRE WHEN THE ORIGINAL TIRE HAD HARDLY ANY USE. A COUPLE OF MONTHS LATER, WE NOTICED A BUBBLE ON THE REAR TIRE, TOOK IT IN TO GOODYEAR, ANOTHER BARELY USED TIRE WAS DEFECTIVE. WHILE MY SON WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, A COUPLE OF WEEKS LATER, HE GOT A FLAT AND THE WHOLE SIDEWALL WAS SEPARATED AND DAMAGED, THE 3RD DEFECTIVE TIRE. YESTERDAY, WHILE DRIVING IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD ON OUR WAY HOME, A BLOWOUT IN THE LAST OF THE NEXEN TIRES. LITERALLY A HOLE IN THE SIDEWALL. THIS WAS A NEW CAR, WITH NEW TIRES. ALL 4 MANUFACTURED TIRES ON THE CAR WERE DEFECTIVE. THANK GOD WE WERE NOT KILLED ON THE FREEWAY OR HARMED ANYONE WITH THIS HAZARDOUS BRAND OF TIRE. THIS TIRE HAS FAILED, ALL FOUR NEW TIRES FAILED. 2 IMAGES ARE ATTACHED. TWO FAILED ON THE HIGHWAY, TWO FAILED ON CITY STREETS. SHAME ON NEXEN FOR NOT RECALLING THIS TIRE YET. I'VE CALLED NEXEN WARRANTY BUT HAD TO LEAVE A MESSAGE.

I HAVE HAD A TON OF ISSUES. MY BLIND SPOT SENSORS ONLY WORK OCCASIONALLY. (I ACTUALLY KNOW SOMEONE ELSE WITH A HYUNDAI THAT IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM). ADDITIONALLY, SENSORS GO OFF AT RANDOM. I HAVE HAD THE WARNINGS FOR FLAT TIRE POP UP MULTIPLE TIMES WHEN THERE WAS NO FLAT TIRE. ONE OF THE TONES MY STEERING WHEEL ACTUALLY LOCKED UP AND I WAS UNABLE TO DRIVE. I HAVE ALSO HAD ISSUES WITH MY RADIO SCREEN AND THE RADIO PLAYING. MY PUSH TO START BUTTON ALSO HAS ISSUES. SOMETIMES IT WILL NOT TURN THE WHOLE CAR OFF. THEY REPLACED SOMETHING IN THE BOTTOM BUT IT IS STILL HAPPENING. TODAY IT ACTUALLY HAD A HARD TIME STARTING. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING SINCE I GOT THE CAR. I'VE HAD IT LESS THAN A YEAR AND IT HAS BEEN TO THE SHOP A COUPLE DOZEN TIMES. THIS HAPPENS AT ALL TIMES BOTH WHEN I'M MOVING AND NOT MOVING DEPENDING ON THE ISSUES. IT HAS ALSO HAPPENED WHEN I WAS DRIVING SLOWER AND FASTER. MY SCREEN HAS ALSO FROZEN AND I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO USE IT. BOTH IN MOTION AND PARKED. P

ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. WHOLE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. FOUND OUT ENGINES ARE DANGEROUS AND HAVE EXPLODED. ENGINES ARE ON BACK ORDER BECAUSE OF SO MANY ELANTRA NEEDING A NEW ENGINE. THIS SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED BECAUSE NO ONE IS WARNING ELANTRA OWNERS ABOUT THIS UNTIL THE CARS BREAK DOWN. I AM STILL WITHOUT MY CAR SINCE JUNE BECAUSE ENGINES ARE ON BACK ORDER UNTIL LATE AUGUST/EARLY SEPTEMBER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING LOW SPEEDS, TURNING LEFT OR RIGHT, REVERSING, OR DRIVING OVER BUMPS IN THE ROAD, A LOUD ABNORMAL NOISE WAS HEARD COMING FROM THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT THE WINDOWS FAILED TO GO UP OR DOWN AND WATER ENTERED INTO THE PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT LENS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOB MAYBERRY HYUNDAI (3220 W HWY 74, MONROE, NC 28110, (704) 283-8571), BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURES COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE PRECEDING VEHICLE ABRUPTLY STOPPED. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO IMMEDIATELY STOP. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIR BAG DEPLOYED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED A WHIPLASH THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTIONS. THE DRIVER OF THE OTHER VEHICLE WAS TRANSPORTED TO THE HOSPITAL BY AMBULANCE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WERE TWO OTHER PASSENGERS IN THE OTHER VEHICLE, BUT HE WAS UNAWARE OF THEIR INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A TOW YARD. THE DEALER (LEE HYUNDAI, 1960 SKIBO RD, FAYETTEVILLE, NC 28314, (910) 864-7100) WAS CONTACTED, BUT WAS WAITING FOR INVESTIGATION RESULTS FROM THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE REVERSING THE VEHICLE, THE BACK UP CAMERA BECAME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (GERALD HYUNDAI, 209 HANSEN BLVD, NORTH AURORA, IL 60542), BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD INTERMITTENTLY START AND THEN TURN OFF, AND THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER WINDOWS FAILED TO OPERATE CORRECTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WERE FAILURES WITH THE ENGINE BRACKET MOUNT AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE STEERING WHEEL SEIZED. THE VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE MDC BOLT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED; HOWEVER, THE DEALER RECOMMENDED THAT THE STEERING COLUMN BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY WOULD ASSIST BY DEDUCTING ONE VEHICLE PAYMENT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 4,200.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE PRECEDING VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN ABRUPTLY AND CAUSED THE CONTACT TO SLAM ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE BRAKE PEDAL TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD, BUT DID NOT STOP THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES AND A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE CONTACT CALLED PAUL BLANCO'S GOOD CAR COMPANY OAKLAND AT 510-746-4900 (LOCATED AT 7201 OAKPORT ST, CA 94621) AND PROVIDED THE TECHNICIAN WITH THE INSURANCE INFORMATION AS REQUESTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WAS DAMAGED; HOWEVER, IT WAS STILL ABLE TO BE DRIVEN TO A BODY SHOP. THE INSURANCE COMPANY TOOK POSSESSION OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED THE CONTACT WITH A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 41,000.

"TAKATA RECAL" THE AIR BAG LIGHT KEEPS TURNING ON . FEEL LOSS OF POWER WHEN DRIVING SPEED LIMIT UNDER FOURTY-FIVE ALSO SUDDENDLEY LOOSES POWER WHEN GOING THE SPEEDOF SEVENTY-SEVENTY-FIVE SPEED IN THE HIGHWAY SPEED DROPS TO FIFTY-FIVE FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STOP. AFRAID OF GETTING HIT FROM BEHIND ALSO HESITATES WHEN DRIVING THE SPEED LIMIT UNDER FOURTY-FIVE FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STOP. ALSO THE FRONT WHEEL ALIGMENT LIGHT KEEPS TURNING ON WHEN ITHECAR IS IN MOTION AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT ALSO TURNS ON WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION. THESE THING HAVE BEEN HAPPENING SINCE APRIL 2018 MY CAR HAS ONLY 41,OOO MILES ON IT

THIS COMPLAINT IS INVOLVING USA AUTO CARE AND ABC HYUNDAI I WENT TO HAVE AN OIL CHANGE DONE AT USA AUTO CARE AND A WEEK LATER MY OIL PLUG FELL OUT OF MY CAR AND I LOST ALL MY OIL HAD MY CAR TOWED TO HYUNDAI HYUNDAI PUT A NEW PLUG IN THERE REFILLED WITH OIL SHOW ME EVERYTHING WAS OKAY SO I PROCEEDED TO GO TO USA AUTO CARE NUMBER FOR AND TRY AND GET THE MONEY THAT I PAID TO ABC HYUNDAI FOR THE OIL IN THE PLUGS ON MY WAY MY ENGINE LOCKED UP CAR CAME TO A STOP AND SHUT OFF I THEN HAVE THE CAR TOWED BACK TO HYUNDAI AND WAS NOTIFIED BY HYUNDAI THAT MY ENGINE WAS PRETTY MUCH DONE FOR CALL PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE MY INSURANCE AT THE TIME NOTIFIED THEM OF THE CLAIM THEY SENT SOMEONE DOWN TO TAKE PICTURES THEY GOT BACK WITH ME AFTER A FEW DAYS AND MY CASE WAS TRANSFERRED TO ABOUT THREE DIFFERENT PEOPLE BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL AGENT HAD TO LEAVE FOR MATERNITY LEAVE AND I WAS NOTIFIED BY ONE OF THE OTHER AGENTS THAT WAS ON MY CASE THAT IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED BY PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE BECAUSE IT WAS A NON COMPREHENSIVE ACCIDENT AND THAT IT WASN'T IN A PHYSICAL ACCIDENT CAUSING BODY DAMAGE I ALSO CALLED MY WARRANTY BECAUSE MY CAR IS BRAND NEW AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS BOY BECAUSE I DID NOT HAVE THE OIL CHANGE DONE AT HYUNDAI AFTER A COUPLE OF WEEKS I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI THAT MY CAR WAS FIXED THOUGHT IT WAS THROUGH THE WARRANTY AND THEY CHANGE THEIR MIND BUT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM THEY NEVER NOTIFIED ME OF THEM TAKING THE CLAIM NO EMAILS OR CORRESPONDENCE WHAT I WAS NOTIFIED BY ABC HYUNDAI TO COME GET MY CAR I WAS TOLD THAT I HAD TO PAY A $1,000 DEDUCTIBLE AND THAT MY INSURANCE WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETED THE CLAIM I AM ON SOCIAL SECURITY I DO NOT HAVE $1,000 SITTING AROUND AND I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT PROGRESSIVE COULD NOT COVER IT NOW I'M STUCK BECAUSE I CAN'T AFFORD THE DEDUCTIBLE AND I CAN'T USE MY CAR TO DO UBER AND MAKE THE MONEY I NEED SOME GUIDANCE IN THIS

PUCHASE MY ELANTRA IN JUNE 2017, WHEN IT RAIN OR FIRST THING IN THE AM THE BRAKES WILL MAKE A SOUND LIKE I NEED NEW BREAKS AND LIKE THE ROTOR NEED REPLACED. I TOOK IT IN AND THEY SAID EVERYTHING WAS FIND. ONE YEAR LATER STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. THE SEATBELT LIGHT COMES ON AND CONTINUES TO BEEP WITH NO ONE SITTING IN THE SEAT AND THE ONLY WAY I CAN GET IT TO GO OFF IS TO SNAP THE SEATBELT. SOMETIMES I HAVE ACCESS TO MY BLUETOOTH PHONE AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T WORK OR THE DISPLAY IS NOT ACCESSIBLE

BLOWS COLD AIR WHEN IDLING IN COLD WEATHER(BELOW 0) TEMP GUAGE DROPS TO COLD ,WINDSHIELD STARTS FOGGING UP HAVE TO PULL OVER TURN BLOWER DOWN ONE SPEED OR IT WON'T HEAT UP AGAIN !! PRETTY DANGEROUS IN HIGHWAY TRAFFIC ! HAD IT BACK TO DEALER TWICE AND SAID IT WAS THERMOSTAT ,BUT IT DID NOT FIX PROBLEM ........HAVE TALKED TO OTHER SAME VEHICLE OWNERS AS WELL AS INTERNET SEARCH AND SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN HAPPENING TO OTHER OLDER ELANTRA VEHICLES . WHAT IS BEING DONE ABOUT THIS ONGOING PROBLEM AND DEFINITE SAFETY AND NUISANCE PROBLEM ??????

WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT SPEEDS OF AROUND 25-30 MPH...CAR IN FRONT OF ME SLOWED DOWN SO I ATTEMPTED TO SLOW DOWN. I PRESSED ON BRAKE PEDAL BUT CAR DID NOT STOP. IF FELT LIKE IT STARTED TO START THEN SLIPPED AND GAINED SPEED RESULTING IN A FRONT END CRASH. THIS MODEL HAS A RECALL BUT WHEN I PUT IN MY VIN IT SAYS NOT AFFECTED BYTHE RECALL ON THESE BRAKES BUT I'M SEEING SIMILAR COMPLAINTS.

O WHOM IT MAY CONCERN, MY SON WAS IN AN ACCIDENT THIS PAST TUESDAY 4/3/18 WHERE HE REARED END ANOTHER VEHICLE.. THE AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON BUT THE AIR BAGS NEVER DEPLOYED. IT WAS ENOUGH DAMAGE TO TOTAL THE CAR.. APROX 9-12 THOUSAND DOLLARS IN DAMAGE.. LUCKILY NO ONE WAS INJURED BUT I AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THE AIR BAGS NOT DEPLOYING. THE ADJUSTER FROM THE INSURANCE COMPANY ALSO WAS WONDERING WHY THEY DID NOT DEPLOY. I HAVE READ THERE IS SOME ISSUES WITH THE 2017 ELANTRA AND AIRBAGS NOT DEPLOYING CORRECTLY BUT NOT SURE IF APPLIES TO THIS SITUATION I WOULD LIKE SOMEONE TO REVIEW THE DAMAGE AND GIVE ME SOME KIND OF IDEA WHY THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY..

I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK ONE NIGHT AND AFTER LEAVING GAS STATION PULLING OUT OF PARKING LOT I WAS STOPPING BEHIND CAR IN FRONT OF ME WHEN MY ENGINE STALLED SO I PUT CAR IN PARK AND RESTARTED IT ONLY TO MOVE ABOUT FIVE FEET WHEN ENGINE STALLED AGAIN WAS ABLE TO RESTART AND GET OUT ONTO HIGHWAY UNTIL I CAME TO A RED TRAFFIC LIGHT AS I PROCEEDED TO STOP ENGINE STALLED AGAIN AFTER RESTARTING IT NO ISSUES ALL THE WAY HOME TWO DAYS LATER I WAS HEADING OUT OF WORK TO GET LUNCH AND COMING AROUND A JUG HANDLE CAR ENGINE STALLED AGAIN RESTARTED AND MADE IT BACK TO WORK. NOW I AM WRITTING TO TRY AND SOLVE THIS DANGEROUS ISSUE AT HAND.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS APPLIED AND TRAVELED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO CARDINALE WAY HYUNDAI (2525 WARDLOW RD, CORONA, CA 92882), BUT THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE DUPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. ADDITIONALLY, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO RIVERSIDE METRO AUTO GROUP (8330 INDIANA AVE, RIVERSIDE, CA 92504), BUT THEY WERE ALSO UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000.

TAKATA RECALL- VEHICLE WAS TURNING LEFT WHEN HIT FROM DRIVER'S SIDE BY ANOTHER VEHICLE. DRIVER WAS INJURED, AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. SEE PICTURES. STATE POLICE SUSPECT THAT NONE OF THE AIRBAG SENSORS WERE TRIGGERED DURING THE COLLISION WHEN IT WAS EXPECTED THEY WOULD DO SO UNDER SUCH CIRCUMSTANCES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPED OUT OF GEAR. TODD ARCHER HYUNDAI IN BELLEVUE, NEBRASKA WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND STATED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS PERFORMING AS IT SHOULD. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 6,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE BRAKES FAILED TO RESPOND. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE WAS INVOLVED IN A FRONT END COLLISION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE BODY SHOP; HOWEVER, A DETERMINATION HAD NOT BEEN MADE REGARDING IF THE VEHICLE WAS STILL OPERABLE. THERE WAS ALSO A PREVIOUS BRAKE FAILURE THAT RESULTED IN A CRASH. THERE WAS ONE INJURY, BUT MEDICAL ATTENTION WAS NOT REQUIRED. THE CONTACT SUFFERED MODERATE ABRASIONS. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT PROVIDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH, THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO APPLY THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED BEFORE OR AFTER THE FAILURE. THE AIR BAGS PARTIALLY DEPLOYED. THE DRIVER SUSTAINED MINOR INJURIES, WHICH REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THERE WERE NO OPEN RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000.

BELOW 50 DEGREES IT TAKES THE HEATER AN EXTREMELY LONG PERIOD FOR THE CAR TO REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMP AND THEN WHEN THE HEATER IS TURNED ON IT FALLS BACK TO ALMOST INTO THE COLD POSITION AND BEGINS TO BLOW COOL AIR. THE TEMP GAUGE WILL THEN GO UP WHILE DRIVING BUT WILL GO DOWN TOWARD THE COLD POSITION WHILE IDLING. MY OTHER CAR IS A 2011 ELANTRA AND HAVE NO ISSUES WITH IT AS IT WARMS UP IN JUST A COUPLE OF MILES AND STAYS WARM AND BLOWS HOT AIR. DEALERSHIP HAS CHECKED IT OUT AND SAYS ITS WORKING FINE BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL CASES ON THE INTERNET REPORTING THE SAME WITH OTHER OWNERS AND EVEN FOUND WHERE HYUNDIA HAS ISSUED A TSB REPLACING SOME THERMOSTATS IN THE 2017 MODELS.

CAR STALLED WHILE DRIVING DOWN ROAD. HYUNDAI REPLACING ENGINE.

INTERMITTENTLY THE ENGINE IDLES ERRATICLY AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON, LOOSES POWER.IT HAPPENS WHEN CAR IS MOVING OR STATIONARY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE WITH THE HEATER FAN BLOWING AT THE HIGHEST SETTING, THE AIR WOULD CHANGE FROM HOT TO COLD. WHEN THE FAILURE OCCURRED, THE WINDOWS WOULD NOT DEFROST, CAUSING A VISIBILITY HAZARD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (CARBONE HYUNDAI, 4975 COMMERCIAL DR, YORKVILLE, NY) AND THE THERMOSTAT WAS REPLACED. AFTER RETRIEVING THE VEHICLE FROM THE DEALER, THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED, BUT NO SOLUTION WAS OFFERED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 6,000.

WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION THE SUSPENSION IS MAKING RATTLING NOISES. WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION THERE IS A VERY LOUD SQUEAKING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR DRUMS AND ALSO WHILE BRAKING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO STOP. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT CRASHED INTO THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE CONTACT WAS NOT INJURED, BUT SOUGHT MEDICAL ATTENTION THE FOLLOWING DAY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE AWAY FROM THE SCENE OF THE CRASH. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. A LOCAL DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHILE DRIVING CAR AT 50 MPH ON A COUNTY ROAD ON 10/11/2017, CAR SHUT ITSELF OFF, I HAD TO COAST TO THE SHOULDER WITHOUT POWER STEERING OR POWER BRAKES. WARNINGS SUCH AS ANTENNAE DISCONNECT, BLIND SPOT DETECTION SYSTEM WARNING. WHEN I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR I DROVE TO O'BRIEN HYUNDAI AND THEY WERE UNABLE TO HELP ME AS THEY HAD NO AVAILABLE APPOINTMENTS. FINALLY ABLE TO GET A APPOINTMENT AT ANOTHER DEALERSHIP GETTEL 0N 10/21/2017 I HAVE BROUGHT THE CAR IN 3 TIMES FOR THE SAME ISSUE, 1ST TIME 10/21/17, FOUND PROBLEM WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, THEY DISABLED THE BSD SYSTEM AND THE WIRING HARNESS WAS ORDERED. I BROUGHT THE CAR IN ON 10/28/17 TO 10/31/17 AND THE WIRING HARNESS WAS REPLACED AND ALSO THE BSD ASSEMBLY. ON 11/3/17, ON THE WAY HOME FROM WORK, CAR STALLED AGAIN WHILE DRIVING, VEHICLE WARNING ANTENNA DISCONNECT, BSD SYSTEM WARNING. BOUGHT INTO SERVICE ON 11/4/2017, ENGINEER FROM CORPORATE FLOWN IN TO CHECK CAR BECAUSE THEY WERE UNABLE TO FIX IT, REPLACED BSD SYSTEM LH AND BSD SYSTEM RH, ALSO A LOOSE PIN AT F18R. CAR WAS IN THE DEALERSHIP UNTIL 12/5/17. ON 12/20/17 ON THE WAY TO WORK, CAR STALLED, ELECTRICAL WENT HAYWIRE, DOORS WOULD NOT UNLOCK, CAR HAD TO BE TOWED INTO DEALERSHIP, WIRING ASSEMBLY-FLOOR HAD TO BE REPLACED. CAR WAS IN SHOP UNTIL 12/29/2017. DRIVING INTO WORK 1/2/2018, WARNING ANTENNA DISCONNECT, I HAD TO TURN OFF BSD SYSTEM AS EACH PREVIOUS TIME THE ANTENNA WARNING WAS THE FIRST WARNING PRIOR TO BDS WARNING & CAR STALLING WHILE DRIVING. HAVE APPOINTMENT ON 1/8/208 AT DEALERSHIP.

THE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA ALL-WEATHER FLOOR MATS HAVE DEEP RUBBER GROOVES THAT RUN PERPENDICULAR TO THE DRIVER'S LEGS CAUSING THEIR SHOE TO BE MOMENTARILY TRAPPED IN THESE DEEP RUBBER GROOVES. THE EXTRA MOTION NECESSARY TO RELEASE YOUR SHOES FROM THESE GROOVES CAN PROMOTE A SAFETY HAZARD IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. ARE THESE FLOOR MATS BEING RECALLED?

LEASED A BRAND NEW HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 WITH A KNOWN BRAKE SAFETY ISSUE WITHOUT THE ISSUE BEING REPAIRED PRIOR TO OR BEING NOTIFIED IMMEDIATELY OF THE ISSUE AT THE TIME OF THE SALE. THE PURCHASE WAS MADE 4 MONTHS AFTER THE RECALL STARTED FROM THE BAY RIDGE HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN BROOKLYN, NY. NHTSA RECALL #17V063000

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA SE DOES NOT HAVE A SERVICE LIGHT. DROVE ABOUT 8K MILES AND NO SERVICE LIGHT CAME ON SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER TO SERVICE AND ASKED WHY THE LIGHT DID NOT COME UP? UPON COMPLETION THEY CONFIRMED THIS CAR IS BASIC AND DOES NOT COME WITH A SERVICE LIGHT. THIS IS RIDICULOUS. THEY GIVE AN MSRP OF OVER 21K AND FAIL TO PUT A VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE

DRIVING AROUND 35 MILES AN HOUR AND COME TO A SMALL CURVE TURNED THE WHEEL LITTLE BIT BUT CAR WENT STRAIGHT AND GUARD RAIL HIT PASSAGER SIDE FRONT OF CAR AND DRIVER AIRBAG CAME OUT BUT DIDN'T BLOW ALL THE WAY UP AND HAD A HOLE IN IT WITH STITCHING AROUND IT SO DRIVER AIRBAG IS NO COUNT JUST FALLS IN YOUR LAP AND ELECTRIC STEERING IS UNPREDICTABLE

AS OF LAST WEEK, MY TRANNY SEEMED LIKE IT WAS SLIPPING. SOMETIMES IT DID , OTHER TIMES IT JERKE.. ANYWAY, IT SNOWED HERE IN UPSTATE NY. I AMAL OVER THE ROAD. MY TIRES SEEM OK. BRAKES ARE GRINDING. CARS ONLY A YEAR OLD SOON. I HAVE 3 CHILDREN IN THE CAR. I AM ALWAYS IN MOTION. GETTING SCARED TO DRIVE. IT FEELS LIKE THE TIRES THOUGH TOO.. WHAT KIND OF TIRES DOES THIS CAR HAVE.. DOES IT HAVE ALLSEASONS? DOESNT FEEL LIKE IT. ANYWAY THIS SHOULD NOT BE HAPPENING.. HELP.

WHEN I START MY VEHICLE IS SHAKES VERY BAD. I LET IT SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES AND IT WILL STOP HOWEVER WHEN I'M STOPPED AT A RED LIGHTNING IT WILL BEGIN AGAIN. I JUST GOT MY CAR LESS THAN A YEAR AGO , LESS THAN 20.000 MILES AND I'M UP TO DATE ON ALL MAINTENANCE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS AND ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A RIGHT TURN, THE POWER STEERING BECAME EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO MANEUVER. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER CRASHED INTO A CURB. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THERE WERE NO INJURIES. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE VEHICLE WAS THEN TOWED TO ACTION HYUNDAI OF FLEMINGTON (180 U.S. 202, BUILDING B, FLEMINGTON, NJ 08822 (908) 788-4227). A PRIVATE INSPECTOR WAS UNABLE TO FIND ANY FAILURE CODES OR DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED CASE NUMBER: 10438399. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 400.

LEASED THE NEW HYUNDAI ELANTRA SE ON JUNE 28TH 2017 AND ON AUGUST7 2017 THE DEALER CALLED AND WAS TOLD THE CAR HAS BEEN RECALLED AND HAS TO BE SERVICED. THE RECALLS WERE FROM FEB2017 AND APRIL 2017 AND NEVER REPAIRED. I WAS LEASED THIS CAR AS NEW WITH TWO EXISTING RECALLS AND NEVER BEEN INFORMED.

I WAS IN AN OPEN PARKING LOT, I REVERSED MY CAR OUT OF THE PARKING STALL WITH 1 CAR ON THE PASSAGE SIDE, NO CAR ON THE STALL RIGHT NEXT TO THE DRIVER SIDE BUT THERE WAS A PARKED CAR RIGHT NEXT TO THE EMPTIED STALL. WHEN MY CAR WAS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE PARKING STALL, I TURNED THE WHEEL TO THE LEFT (NOT ALL THE WAY) SO THAT I WAS IN AN 45 DEGREE ANGEL TO DRIVE OUT. I PUT MY FOOT ON MY BRAKE TO CHECK IF THERE WAS ENOUGH ROOM FOR ME TO DRIVE OUT. SUDDENLY, I FELT MY CAR MOVED SLOWLY ON ITS OWN, MY INSTINCT AT THAT TIME TOLD ME TO PUT THE CAR ON PARK GEAR. AS SOON AS I DID THAT THE CAR ROLL BACKWARD FASTER AND STOPED UNTIL I STRUCK THE PARKED CAR NEXT TO THE EMPTIED STALL IN THE PARKING LOT . MY CONCERN IS WHY THE CAR STILL MOVED IF IT WAS ALREADY IN PARK GEAR. OR IS THE CAR SUPPOSED TO STOP WHILE IN PARK GEAR? I DON'T KNOW CAR REALLY WELL SO I AM NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS, BUT IT SCARED ME TO KNOW THAT PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK GEAR IN THIS SITUATION DID NOT STOP THE CAR FROM MOVING. I AM NOT SURE IF THE MANUFACTURER EVEN TEST THE CAR IN THIS SCENARIO.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AND EXITING AN OFFRAMP. HITTING THE CAR'S BRAKES MADE THE BRAKE PEDAL TURN REALLY LOOSE AND ALMOST TO THE FLOOR. INSTANT BRAKING ABILITY WAS LOST AND THE CAR WENT INTO A SLOW BRAKE WHILE WOBBLING LEFT TO RIGHT. SPLIT SECOND TIMING OF TURNING THE WHEEL AVOIDED CRASHING INTO THE CAR DIRECTLY IN FRONT. AFTER THAT THE BRAKES RESUME NORMAL FUNCTION. ...UPDATED 10/18/17 *BF UPDATED 9/10/18*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHILE THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE POWER STEERING FAILED WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A RIGHT TURN. THE VEHICLE CRASHED INTO A TELEPHONE POLE. THE CONTACT WAS UNSURE IF ANY WARNING INDICATORS WERE ILLUMINATED PRIOR TO THE CRASH. ALL THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED IN THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER SUSTAINED A SHATTERED LEFT WRIST, A BROKEN RIGHT WRIST, PELVIC INJURIES, A COLLAPSED LUNG, AND OTHER INJURIES. THE CONTACT'S DAUGHTER WAS TRANSPORTED TO THE HOSPITAL BY AMBULANCE. THE CONTACT WAS UNAWARE IF A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A HOLDING GARAGE WHERE IT WAS DEEMED A TOTAL LOSS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT JONES JUNCTION AUTO GROUP (1508 BELAIR RD #2000, BEL AIR, MD 21014 (410) 879-6400) WAS CONTACTED, BUT DID NOT INSPECT THE VEHICLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE POWER STEERING FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

MY CAR WILL NOT START SOMETIMES, AND THE KEYS WON'T HANDLE THE SIGNALS TO THE CAR. IF I WERE TO WANT TO TURN IT ON IT WON'T, WHEN THIS SITUATION HAPPENS. ALSO, THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE. I PARK MY CAR, AND IT WON'T TURN ON, NOT EVEN THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS. THE ENGINE LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON SO I THE DEALERSHIP CAN'T SCAN IT SUPPOSEDLY. I AM WORRIED THIS WILL HAPPEN WHILE I AM DRIVING.

THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH MY 2017 ELANTRA THE DEALERSHIP CANNOT DIAGNOSE OR REPAIR. THE FRONT PASSENGER SEATBELT ALARM AND WARNING LIGHT IS OFTEN ENABLED WHEN NO ONE OR NOTHING IS IN THE SEAT. THE ONLY WAY TO DISABLE THE ALARM IS TO BUCKLE THE SEATBELT. I AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THIS BECAUSE THE SEATBELT MAY FAIL WHEN IT IS NEEDED. I AM NOT HAPPY KNOWING THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE CAR THE DEALERSHIP CANNOT REPAIR. I DON'T FEEL SAFE IN THE CAR BECAUSE I AM NOT CONFIDANT THE SEATBELTS ARE PROPERLY WORKING. #ELANTRAGHOSTRIDER #HYUNDAIGHOSTRIDER

3 OCCURRENCES: LEAVE FROM PARKING SPACE- TURN ON ENGINE- WAIT UNTIL TACHOMETER GOES TO 1- WITH FOOT ON BRAKE, SHIFT INTO D- TACHOMETER REACHES 5 ON SPEEDING ENGINE BEFORE ABLE TO TURN OFF IGNITION. DRIVING VERY SLOW- WITH FOOT ON BRAKE- IN FORWARD TO LARGE PARALLEL PARKING- SPEEDS UP- BRAKES SPONGY- DOES NOT STOP CAR. ONLY HIGH CURB PREVENTS CAR FROM CLIMBING ON SIDEWALK AND GIVING ME TIME TO TURN IGNITION OFF. STOPPING AT TRAFFIC LIGHT ON ROAD WITH A 35 MILE SPEED ZONE. AFTER STOP, BRAKE BECOMES SPONGY, CAR'S WHEELS BEGIN SKIDDING- CAN ONLY TURN OFF IGNITION TO STOP THE CAR. EVERYTHING BACK TO NORMAL WHEN I TURNED IGNITION BACK ON, AS WAS THE CASE WITH THE FIRST AND SECOND OCCURRENCES LISTED ABOVE. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN THE FIRST OCCURRENCE, WAS IN MOTION IN A PARK IN THE SECOND OCCURRENCE AND ON A COUNTY ROAD WITH A SLIGHT TURN TO THE LEFT IN THE THIRD OCCURRENCE.

THE VEHICLE HAS APPROXIMATELY 5,500 MILES ON IT AND IT WAS BEING DRIVEN 10-15 MILES AN HOUR ON A CITY STREET. WHEN TRYING TO COME TO A STOP THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND WOULD NOT STOP THE VEHICLE. IT HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE AND AFTER PUMPING THE BRAKE PEDAL THE BRAKES RETURNED TO NORMAL. THERE IS A CURRENT RECALL ON THIS MODEL AND YEAR TO REPLACE THE BRAKE BOOSTER BUT IT DOESN'T CURRENTLY INCLUDE THIS VEHICLE'S MANUFACTURED DATE. IT'S HYUNDAI RECALL NUMBER 157 AND NHSTA SAFETY CAMPAIGN #17V063000.

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE ENGINE AND BRAKE ISSUES. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED WHILE TRAVELING IN THE RAIN THE BRAKES BECAME HOT. AFTER PARKING THE VEHICLE OVERNIGHT THE BRAKES MAY MALFUNCTION. ALSO, BEHIND THE MOTOR THERE WAS A LARGE OPENING THAT MAY COLLECT LEAVES NEAR THE ENGINE AND CAUSE A FIRE. UPDATED 08/31/2017*JS

THE CAR HESITATES, JERKS AND PULLS AT THE ACCELERATION MOMENT WHEN STOPED. FOOR INSTANCE IM LIGTHS OR TRAFFIC JAMS. IT CAUSES A COMPLETELY LOST OF POWER AND TERRIBLE SHAKING. THIS HAPPENS AFTER 20MINS DRIVE AND THE GOES FOR THE REST OF THE DAY, IT IS MORE EVIDENT DRIVING IN CITY.

I HAVE HAD MY ELANTRA FOR A LITTLE OVER A YEAR NOW AND IT HAS AROUND 13,000 MILES ON IT. ALMOST THREE WEEKS AGO MY ELECTRIC POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON, SO I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AS SOON AS IT CAME ON. TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT, THEY TESTED MY CAR, REPLACED THE WIRING HARNESSS AND STILL COULDN'T FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM. I GOT A CALL ON TUESDAY OF THIS WEEK AND WAS TOLD THAT A MOUSE HAD CHEWED THROUGH ALL THE WIRING IN MY FUSE BOX. I WAS INFORMED NOT ONLY BY THE GUYS AT THE DEALERSHIP BUT ALSO BY MY REGULAR MECHANIC THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AMONGST NEW CARS DUE TO THE FACT THAT A SOY BASED INSULATION IS USED TO PROTECT THE WIRING INSTEAD OF PATROLEUM BASED. I WAS ALSO INFORMED THAT THERE ARE GUARDS THAT CAN BE PUT ON THE WIRES TO PREVENT THIS PROBLEM FROM HAPPENING IN THE FUTURE. I STRONGLY BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL DUE TO THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AND THAT IT CAN BE AVOIDED JUST BY SIMPLY PUTTING A GUARD ON THE WIRING. I HAVE TO GO THROUGH MY INSURANCE TO FIX THIS PROBLEM NOW BECAUSE HYUNDAI WON'T FIX IT THEMSELVES SINCE IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.

WE JUST PURCHASED AN ELANTRA LIMITED. IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE ELANTRA CAN BE TURNED OFF WHILE NOT IN PARK WITHOUT ANY KIND OF WARNING/BUZZER GOING OFF TO REMIND THE DRIVER THAT A VERY HAZARDOUS SITUATION IS IN PLAY. MOST DRIVERS GRAB THE KEY WHEN LEAVING THE CAR AND CANNOT PHYSICALLY REMOVE THE KEY WHEN THE CAR OUT OF "PARK". THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM ROLLING DOWN A HILL AS THE DRIVER WALKS AWAY. THE KEY-LESS IGNITION HAS BYPASSED THIS SAFETY FEATURE. THIS SITUATION WILL LIKELY BE ADDRESS BY CLASS ACTION SOONER THAN LATER. IT WOULD BE VERY THOUGHTFUL IF SOMEONE COULD PREVENT THE HUMAN COST THAT IS LIKELY TO ENSUE.

WAS DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 287 W WHEN THE CAR SHUT DOWN. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHT. I HAD TO QUICKLY TRY TO GET THE CAR TO THE SHOULDER. THERE WAS A BURNING SMELL WHEN THE CAR SHUT DOWN. THE ELANTRA WAS BOUGHT NEW AND I ONLY OWNED IT FOR 5 MONTHS. I CALLED AAA AND THEY TOWED US TO THEIR GAS STATION IN NY. FROM THERE, ANOTHER TOW TRUCK TOOK US TO THE MAZDA REPAIR LOCATION, IN NJ, WHICH DOES REPAIRS FOR THE HYUNDAI DEALER. THEY PUT OIL IN THE CAR AND THEN REALIZED THAT THERE WAS NO OIL IN THE CAR. THEY STATED WE NEEDED A NEW ENGINE AND IT WOULD TAKE ONE MONTH TO ORDER AND INSTALL. ONLY TWO WEEKS EARLIER, WE WENT TO THAT SAME REPAIR LOCATION FOR A 5,000 MILE CHECK UP WHERE THEY DID AN OIL CHANGE. NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR. I AM 88 AND VERY LUCKY I KNEW WHAT TO DO WHEN THE CAR SHUT DOWN. I HOPE THIS DOES NOT HAPPENED TO A NEW DRIVER.

NO COMPLAINT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING AND MAKING A RIGHT TURN, THE CONTACT HEARD A RATTLING AND CLUNKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (KEY HYUNDAI LOCATED AT 566 BRIDGEPORT AVE, MILFORD, CA 06460) WHERE THE TECHNICIAN TIGHTENED THE FRONT END STRUT MOUNT AND THE SUBFRAME. THE VEHICLE WAS TEST DRIVEN AND THE NOISE WAS GONE. ONCE THE CONTACT ARRIVED AT HER HOME, THE NOISE RECURRED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE REAR LICENSE FRAME WAS ROTTING. THE LICENSE FRAME WAS REMOVED, THE SUSPENSION HARDWARE WAS INSPECTED, AND THE NUTS AND BOLT WERE RE-TORQUED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS ALSO TAKEN TO THE BRANDFON HYUNDAI DEALER, LOCATED IN NEW HAVEN, CT, WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE FRONT STABILIZER BAR WAS LOOSE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE TECHNICIAN REPLACED THE TWO FRONT STABILIZER LINKS. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,499. UPDATED 08/22/17*LJ *CN

THIS VEHICLE ACCELERATES MORE THAN EXPECTED (LUNGES) WHEN I PUT IT IN DRIVE AND RELEASE THE BRAKE WITHOUT EVEN HAVING MY FOOT ON ACCELERATOR. ON FLAT SURFACE IT BEGINS TO MOVE AHEAD SPONTANEOUSLY WITHOUT MY FOOT ON GAS PEDDLE. I BROUGHT TO DEALER AND THEY SAID THIS IS TYPICAL FOR ELANTRA AND NOT A KNOW ISSUE. IT HAS BEEN MENTIONED BY OTHER DRIVER'S ON REDDIT. THE ONLY SOLUTION IS TO HAVE ONE FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THE OTHER ON ACCELERATOR TO PROTECT FROM SUDDEN ACCELERATION. THERE MUST BE A SOFTWARE/HARDWARE SOLUTION. CREATES RISKY SITUATION BECAUSE ONE COULD INADVERTENTLY HIT PEDESTRIAN, CAR IN FRONT AT STOP, ROLL INTO TRAFFIC, ETC. WORST CASE WOULD BE IF SOMEONE UNFAMILIAR WITH VEHICLE DRIVES IT, IE, RENTAL CAR OR FRIEND. I PUT IN THE DATE I HAD IT CHECKED BY HYUNDAI SERVICE. THEY SAID IT MIGHT NEED TO "BREAK IN" AND TIGHTEN UP AS PARTS WEARS" AS HOPEFUL COMMENTS FOR RESOLUTION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE HESITATED WHILE MAKING LEFT OR RIGHT TURNS. THE VEHICLE ALSO HESITATED WHILE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS BEING DEPRESSED UPHILL. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE, BUT DID NOT OFFER ASSISTANCE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE ISSUE HAD BEEN PRESENT EVER SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED ON MAY 11, 2017. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 260.

THE CAR WAS DRIVING DOWN A CITY STREET WHEN THE ENGINE CEASED WHILE DRIVING IN FRONT OF A HIGHWAY OFF-RAMP. THE CAR WOULD NOT RESTART AND WAS TOWED TO HYUNDAI WHERE THEY INSTALLED A NEW ENGINE, CLAIMING AN OIL BEARING FAILED.

MY VEHICLE HAS ACC (ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL) AND, WHEN SET, WILL ACCELERATE AND BRAKE AS NEEDED TO KEEP A CERTAIN DISTANCE FROM THE VEHICLE IN FRONT THAT THE SYSTEM HAS IDENTIFIED VIA THE RADAR AND CAMERA. I HAD AN INSTANCE WHERE THERE WAS A MOMENTARY LOSS OF POSITIVE CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS. IN THIS EVENT, IT WAS A HAZY AFTERNOON WITH WET ROADS. I WAS FOLLOWING A VEHICLE ON A ROAD WITH THE ACC SET. THE VEHICLE IN FRONT STARTED A DECELERATION LESS THAN 10MPH/S AND MY VEHICLE AUTOMATICALLY STARTED PROGRESSIVELY INCREASING BRAKING ACTION TO MAINTAIN SEPARATION. 1.5 - 2 SECONDS FOLLOWING; IT APPEARED AS THOUGH THE ABS KICKED IN AND DISCONNECTED/OVERRODE THE ACC WITCH SUBSEQUENTLY STOPPED THE BRAKING ACTION ALL TOGETHER. AS A RESULT MY VEHICLE PROCEEDED TORWARD THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME IN A CRITICAL MOMENT THAT REQUIRED, NOW, EVEN MORE BRAKING ACTION IN CONDITIONS THAT INITIALLY CAUSED THE ABS SYSTEM TO ACTIVATE UNDER NORMAL BRAKING ACTION CONTROLLED BY THE ACC. I WAS AWARE AND HAD NOT LET THE SEMI AUTONOMOUS FEATURES OF MY VEHICLE LULL ME INTO COMPLACENCY. I REACTED QUICKLY AND A COLLISION HAD NOT OCCERED. OTHERS MAY NOT BE SO QUICK TO RESPOND IN A SIMILAR SITUATION. I BELIEVE THE SYSTEM DEACTIVATED AS A RESULT OF THE ABS SHAKING THE BRAKE PEDAL OR CONTROL LINKAGES, WHERE, IN NORMAL OPERATION DEPRESSING THE BRAKE DISCONNECTS THE ACC IF THE SYSTEM STARTS AN UNWANTED ACCELERATION OR THE OPERATOR SIMPLY WANTED TO DISCONNECT THE SYSTEM WITHOUT TOGGLING THE STEERING WHEEL DISCONNECT SWITCH. THIS FEATURE IS AVAILABLE ON ALL LIMITED ULTIMATE 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRAS.

IF I'M WITH IN 100 FEET OF MY CAR ANYBODY CAN OPEN MY DOORS..... MY SAFETY IS NOW A CONCERN!!! THIS IS A HUGE PROBLEM!! ALSO WHILE DRIVING OR PARKED MY TRUNK OPENS UP IF YOU CAN'T RESOLVE THIS SAFETY ISSUE I WILL BE RETURNING THIS VEHICLE AND REQUESTING ONE THAT IS SAFE FOR ME AND MY FAMILY.. P.S. I AM VERY MUCH AWARE OF A PENDING LAW SUIT PERTAINING TO THE LEMON LAW.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE TRUNK SUDDENLY OPENED AND THE VEHICLE ROLLED DOWN THE DRIVEWAY WHILE THE CONTACT WAS INSIDE HIS HOME. THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WAS STOPPED ON A CURB. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TRUNK OPENED UNEXPECTEDLY SEVERAL TIMES PRIOR. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURES COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 576.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVNG VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE'S TRUNK OPENED WITHOUT WARNING ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MULTIPLE DEALERS TO BE REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DUPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,200.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS BEING OPERATED AT 60 MPH, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND THE VEHICLE BRAKES PULSATED AND JERKED INCREASING THE DISTANCE BEFORE A STOP. THE CONTACT WAS NOT SURE IF A WARING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V063000 (AIR BAGS) HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE RECALL REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 600. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

HESITATION--NOT AT START, BUT WHEN REACCELERATING FROM A ROLLING STOP

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART ON THE FIRST ATTEMPT. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THERE WAS A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN THAT CONFIRMED THE FAILURE FOR THE THERMOSTAT. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. IN ADDITION, THE DEALER STATED THAT THEY REPLACED THE PART; HOWEVER, THE SECOND DEALER STATED THAT IT WAS NEVER REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 2,300.

WHILE DRIVING, MY CAR STARTED TO MAKE A BEEPING SOUND I HAD NOT HEARD BEFORE. I LOOKED AT THE DASHBOARD AND THE MULTI-MEDIA SYSTEM AND I DID NOT SEE ANY WARNING INDICATORS/LIGHTS. WHEN I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURNED THE CAR OFF AND TURNED THE CAR BACK ON (PUSH TO START). I PROCEEDED TO DRIVE AGAIN AND THE CAR BEGAN TO BEEP THAT UNFAMILIAR SOUND AGAIN. STILL NO VISIBLE WARNING INDICATORS/LIGHTS. I PULLED OVER, PUT THE PARKING BREAK ON, PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURNED THE CAR OFF AND THEN TURNED THE CAR BACK ON. I BEGAN TO DRIVE AGAIN AND THE CAR WAS NO LONGER BEEPING. WHILE DRIVING I STEPPED ON THE BREAK PEDAL WITH THE INTENT TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE OF SLOWING TRAFFIC, MY CAR DID NOT SLOW DOWN. I SLAMMED ON THE BREAK, THE CAR STILL DID NOT SLOW DOWN AND I HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. AFTER I HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME MY CAR WAS STILL PUSHING, I STEPPED ON THE BREAK AGAIN AND THE CAR FELT AS IF IT WAS STILL TRYING TO PUSH FORWARD, I PULLED THE EMERGENCY BREAK AND THE CAR STOPPED. A POLICE OFFICER WAS ALREADY ON THE SCENE, THEN NOTIFIED US PARK POLICE TO COME AND TAKE A REPORT.

DATE: 14 JAN 2017 ODOMETER: 1214 MILES PROBLEM: CHEMICAL SMELL IN PASSENGER COMPARTMENT: -- NOT SURE, BUT MIGHT BE ENGINE OIL -- CAUSED SEVERE, LONG-LASTING HEADACHE, NAUSEA AND DIZZINESS. PROBLEM: WHEN ENGINE IS COLD: -- CONTINUOUS CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT. -- SOUND STOPS WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED TO SHIFT GEARS, THEN STARTS AGAIN WHEN GEAR IS ENGAGED. AFTER ENGINE WARMS UP AND AM ON THE HIGHWAY: -- SOUND SEEMS TO STOP, BUT CANNOT BE SURE BECAUSE OF ROAD NOISE PROBLEM: ICE DROPLETS DISCOVERED INSIDE WINDSHIELD. BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. SEE PHOTOGRAPHS.

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR IT SUDDENLY STALLED RENDERING THE BRAKES AND STEERING USELESS. MANAGED TO COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND STOP. PLACED THE CAR IN PARK AND ATTEMPTED TO RESTART THE CAR. MOST IF NOT ALL OF THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS CAME ON BUT NO ENGINE SOUNDS. ALSO THE CAR WAS NOW STUCK IN PARK. A TOW SERVICE WAS CALLED AND THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT HAS SAT SINCE DECEMBER 28, 2016 BECAUSE THEY ARE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. *TR

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE AFTER TURNING CORNER, VEHICLE ALMOST STOPS, THEN SURGES AHEAD. THIS OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY AND ALSO WHEN PULLING AWAY FROM STOP LIGHT.

I WAS DRIVING 65MPH ON THE FREEWAY, THERE WAS NO DEBRIS ON THE ROAD THAT CARS HAD TO AVOID RUNNING OVER. THIS WAS ON THE 405 FREEWAY SO IF THERE IS ANYTHING ON THE ROAD CHP COMES TO REMOVE IT BECAUSE IT IS AN INCREDIBLY BUSY FREEWAY.WHILE DRIVINING, ALL OF A SUDDEN I HEAR A LOUD POP AND MY TIRE PRESSURE INDICATOR KIGHTS STARTED TO FLASH AND I STARTED TO LOOSE CONTROL OF MY CAR. I MANAGED TO CONTROL IT IN TIME TO AVOID CRASHING AT 65 MPH. I PULLED OVER AND NOTED MY TIRED POPPED AND DEFLATED. I WENT TO BIG O TIRES AND THEY TOLD ME THIS BLOWOUT WAS DUE TO A MANUFACTURER MALFUNCTION. THE TIRE HAS 8,000 MILES ON IT AND IT CAME WITH MY BRAND NEW CAR IN MARCH SO THEY ARE NOT OLD. I HAVE READ SEVERAL PEOPLE WHO HAVE ALSO EXPERIENCED BLOWOUTS FOR NO REASON WITH THEIR NEXEN TIRES THAT HYUNDAI IS USING. THESE TIRES ARE DANGEROUS AND COULD HAVE CAUSED ME MY LIFE IF I HADN'T REACTED QUICKLY TO KEEP FROM CRASHING. PLEASE DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS BEFORE PEOPLE'S LIVES ARE RUINED OR OVER DUE TO NEXEN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS A STRONG CHEMICAL ODOR INSIDE AND NEAR THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ODOR CAUSED HEADACHES, BURNING EYES, EXCESSIVE COUGHING, BURNING NOSTRILS, A BURNING THROAT, AND SEVERE FATIGUE. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT OTHER PASSENGERS IN THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED SIMILAR REACTIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CABIN AIR FILTER WAS REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 5.

WHEN SHIFTING FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE ON AN INCLINE USUALLY SENDS ME HEADING BACK IN REVERSE AGAIN UNTIL I APPLY THE BRAKE PEDAL HARD FOR A FEW SECONDS. THIS HAPPENED TO ME A LOT IN MY DRIVEWAY AND MOST RECENTLY ON A STEEP MOUNTAIN, WHICH WAS REALLY SCARY. THE VEHICLE STARTS FROM STATIONARY MOTION TO REVERSE, THEN STOP, SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT ROLLS BACK IN REVERSE AGAIN. ALMOST LIKE A MANUAL TRANSMISSION DOES. PLEASE INVESTIGATE.

PURCHASED A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED WHICH CAME WITH NEXEN BRAND 225 45 R17 TIRES ON IT. SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE I HAD TO START PUTTING AIR ON THE PASSENGER FRONT TIRE FOR SOME UNKNOWN REASON. AFTER A FEW WEEKS THE LEAK BECAME WORSE AND AUTOMATICALLY ASSUMING I MAY HAVE RAN OVER SOMETING I TOOK TO TIRE SHOP AND DISCOVERED THAT THERE WAS A MALL PIN HOLE TYPE LEAK ON THE INSIDE WALL OF THE TIRE, POSSIBLY BY A SEAM. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY INSPECTED AND ALSO AGREED IT WAS A DEFECT, VEHICLE AND TIRE HAD LESS THAN 5,000 MILES PRIOR TO TIRE FAILURE. ATTEMPTED TO REPORT TO NEXEN WITHOUT RESPONSE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDIA ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE REAR WINDOW VISIBILITY WAS OBSCURED AND FOGGY. THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED AND THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 188.

AIRBAG HAS RECALL