1J4FA29P9YP7087712000 JEEP WranglerSE

The contact owns a 1994 N/A Jeep Wrangler. The contact stated that the vehicle failed the State Inspection because the VIN was included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 02V041000 (PARKING BRAKE). However, the part to do the recall repair was no longer available. The contact had not experienced a failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The mileage at the failure of the State Inspection was 262,384.

The contact owns a 1993 N/A Jeep Wrangler. The contact stated that there was a strong fuel odor coming from the vehicle after the vehicle was refueled. Additionally, the contact stated that the vehicle was experiencing rough idling and reduced power while driving. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where the contact was informed that the VIN was included in NHTSA Campaign Number: 94V106000 (Fuel System, Gasoline); however, the dealer later informed the contact that the recall part had been discontinued. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and confirmed that the recall part had been discontinued. The contact requested that the manufacturer replace the entire fuel pump assembly. A case was filed. The failure mileage was 172,000.

WE HAVE FOUND THAT AFTER REMOVING THE BOLTS FROM THE CROSS MEMBER UNDER THE JEEP THAT THE HOLES ARE RUSTED OUT. IN FACT THE FRAME ON BOTH SIDES OF OUR JEEP ARE RUSTED THROUGH FROM NOT HAVING ANY DRAIN HOLES FOR THE WATER TO DRAIN OUT.

FRAME ROTTED FROM THE INSIDE OUT AROUND THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS. THE CHASSIS IS OTHERWISE RUST FREE, BUT IT SPONTANEOUSLY ROTTED FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM DISCONNECTED WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, LEAVING THE REAR AXLE FREE FLOATING, UNSTABLE, AND VERY LIKELY TO CAUSE A CRASH. THE FRAME HAS HOLES IN IT THAT LET WATER IN. THERE IS NO DRAINAGE HOLE WHERE THE FRAME GOES FROM FLAT ON THE BOTTOM AND CURVES UP AROUND THE WHEEL WELLS. WATER GETS INTO THE FRAME, SITS THERE, AND ROTS IT FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THERE IS NO WAY TO SEE THIS ROT FROM THE OUTSIDE AND THERE IS NO WAY TO FIX IT WITHOUT CUTTING OPEN THE FRAME AND WELDING IN REPAIRS. IF YOU GOOGLE IMAGE SEARCH "JEEP TJ FRAME ROT" YOU CAN SEE OTHER CASES OF THE FRAME FAILING IN THE EXACT SAME LOCATION. HERE'S A BLOG POST WITH SEVERAL INSTANCES OF IT HTTPS://SARAHSTONESADIE.BLOGSPOT.COM/2019/05/JEEP-TJ-FRAME-RECALL.HTML IF YOU GOOGLE "TJ FRAME CAP" YOU'LL SEE THERE'S AN ENTIRE SUB MARKET OF PRODUCTS SPECIFICALLY MADE TO ADDRESS THIS FAILURE. TOYOTA HAD A FRAME RECALL, WHY CAN'T JEEP? IT'S CLEARLY FAILING IN THE EXACT SAME PLACE AND CAN CAUSE SEVERE SAFETY ISSUES. ATTACHED IS A PICTURE "PRE_ROT" THAT SHOWED IT ABOUT 6 MONTHS(?) BEFORE IT COMPLETELY ROTTED THROUGH. THE OTHER PICTURE IS AFTER IT FAILED WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. IT WAS A SMALL RUST BUBBLE THAT STARTED FROM THE INSIDE OUT THAT FAIRLY RAPIDLY RESULTED IN COMPLETE STRUCTURAL FAILURE.

THE FRONT FRAME CAP, OR MOUNTING BRACKET HAS STARTED IS ROTTING AND DETERIORATING. THIS IS A MAJOR CONCERN WHICH HAS COURSES MANY OTHER SEVERE ISSUES. THIS IS A MAJOR SUSPENSION COMPONENT THAT IS ROTTING AWAY.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, SPEED DOESN'T MATTER BC IT HAS HAPPENED AT MULTIPLE SPEEDS, THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER WILL DROP TO NOTHING, WHILE THE OTHER GAUGES LIKE GAS, OIL PRESSURE, TEMPERATURE AND SUCH DO NOT HAVE ANY ISSUES AND REMAIN WHERE THEY SHOULD BE! A FEW SECONDS AFTER THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER DROP, THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND THE ODOMETER WILL READ 'NO BUS', A FEW SECONDS TO A MINUTE LATER THE GAUGES WILL RESUME AND THE ENGINE LIGHT AND 'NO BUS' DISAPPEAR! ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF THIS IS THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER WILL DROP AND OTHER GAUGES NOT BE AFFECTED LIKE PREVIOUS SCENARIO ONLY WITH THIS ONE THE AIRBAG LIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE, LASTS FOR A BRIEF PERIOD AND THEN GOES BACK TO NORMAL! IT HAPPENS SPORADICALLY, BUT HAVE NOTICED IT HAPPENS MORE ON BUMPY ROADS! NONE OF THIS HAS HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AT IDLE! ALL WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, VARIOUS SPEEDS, VARIOUS TYPES OF ROADWAYS!

THE FRONT PORTION OF THE FRAME HAS RUSTED FROM THE INSIDE OUT, NEARLY SEVERING THE STEERING GEAR BOX AND FRAME, FROM THE REST OF THE FRAME. IN ADDITION THE FRAME IN THE SAME LOCATION ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WAS ALSO SOFT TO THE POINT THAT I COULD COMPRESS THE FRAME WITH MY BARE HAND. I DISCOVERED THE PROBLEM AFTER INVESTIGATING WHY THE JEEP WAS SUDDENLY DIFFICULT TO KEEP STRAIGHT WITHIN THE TRAVELING LANE OF WASHINGTON STREET. THANKFULLY, I WAS CLOSE TO HOME AND WAS ABLE TO MAKE IT BACK. I WAS QUOTED $2,200 TO FIX BOTH SIDES OF THE FRAME THROUGH A METAL FRABRICATOR, BUT HE SUGGESTED REPLACING THE ENTIRE FRAME, AS THERE WAS FURTHER ROT CLEAR UP TO THE SPRING BUCKETS. ULTIMATELY I'LL BE FORCED TO TAKE A $4,600 LOAN TO REPLACE THE FRAME. JEEP TJ'S ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR FRAME RUST ISSUES, BUT THE FACT THAT THE RUST WAS UNSEEN JUST WEEKS BEFORE THIS INCIDENT, COMBINED WITH A SUDDEN LOSS OF STEERING STABILITY, IS WORTH TAKING NOTE OF CONCERN. TWO YEARS AGO THIS JEEP HAD NO VISIBLE RUST ANYWHERE ON THE BODY OR FRAME. THE STEERING GEAR BOX WAS REPLACED WITHIN THE LAST YEAR, AND AT THAT TIME THERE WERE NO INDICATIONS THAT THE FRAME WAS COMPROMISED.

2000 JEEP WRANGLER TJ WITH VISIBLE FRAME RUST IN FRONT OF REAR WHEELS. LACK OF DRAINAGE HOLES ALLOWS WATER TO ENTER THROUGH FACTORY DRILLED FRAME HOLES LOCATED IN FRONT AND REAR WHEEL WELLS AND ACCUMULATE IN THE LOWER PARTS OF THE FRAME. BY THE TIME RUST IS VISIBLE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME, THE INSIDE HAS ALREADY BEEN COMPROMISED TO A GREATER DEGREE AS THE RUST PROGRESSES FROM THE INSIDE OUT. AFTER RESEARCHING ONLINE IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL. THERE ARE READILY AVAILABLE KITS TO REPAIR THESE JEEP FRAMES FROM SEVERAL PRIVATE COMPANIES WHICH ILLUSTRATES THE SEVERITY AND PREVALENCE OF THIS PROBLEM. ALTHOUGH THE PARTS ARE AVAILABLE AND INEXPENSIVE, THE COST OF INSTALLATION AS WITH MOST MAJOR VEHICLE REPAIR, IS DANGEROUS AND REQUIRES WELDING WITH SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT AND SKILLS. A REPAIR COMPLETED BY AN UNQUALIFIED PERSON MAY RESULT IN A VEHICLE UNSAFE FOR USE ON PUBLIC ROADS. THIS VEHICLE HAS 175000 MILES DRIVEN ENTIRELY (EXCEPT ONE TRIP TO ATLANTA) IN TENNESSEE. THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN DRIVEN ALMOST ENTIRELY ON PAVED PUBLIC ROADS. *TR

MY JEEP HAS 149,000 MILES. I AM ONLY THE SECOND OWNER. ON APRIL 20, 2019 I DROVE MY JEEP WRANGLER TJ SPORT APPROXIMATELY 10 MILES. I PARKED IT AND WENT BACK 5 MINUTES LATER. WHEN I DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL IT WENT TO THE FLOOR. I HAD IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC. THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THERE WERE THREE RUST HOLES IN THE BRAKE LINES WHICH WERE LEAKING BRAKE FLUID. HE ALSO INFOMRED ME THAT THE FRAME WAS SO RUSTED THAT IT WAS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE AT HIGH SPEEDS. I TOOK IT TO A AUTO FRAME SHOP AND WAS GIVEN AN ESTIMATE OF $6,100.00 TO HAVE THE FRAME REPAIRED. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE AND DISCOVERED THAT THEIR IS A COTTAGE INDUSTRY WHICH HAS SPRUNG UP DUE TO THE MULTIPLE JEEPS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. THEY NOTE IN THEIR ADVERTISING THAT THE CHRYSTLER/JEEP WRANGLER T.J. FRAMES WERE MANUFACTURED WITHOUT DRAIN HOLES. THE FRAMES DO HAVE HOLES ON THEIR SIDES JUST BEHIND AND TIRES. WATER FROM THE TIRES GETS SPLASHED UP INTO THE FRAMES. IF YOU LIVE IN THE NORTHEASTERN UNITED STATES THAT MEANS HIGHLY COROSIVE SALT WATER IS BEING SPLASHED UP INTO THE FRAMES ON THESE JEEPS AND RUSTING THE FRAMES FROM THE INSIDE OUT. I HAVE READ ABOUT MULTIPLE JEEP WRANGLER TJ'S SUFFERING FRAME FAILURES DUE TO THE RUST. I AM SHOCKED THAT CHRYSTLER/JEEP HAS NOT RECALLED THE WRANGLER TJ'S TO INSPECT, REPAIR OR REPLACE THE FRAMES ON THEM. I CANNOT BELIEVE CHRYSTLER/JEEP IS UNAWARE OF THE PROBLEM. TOYATA HAS A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH THEIR TRUCK FRAMES AND THEY HAVE RECALLED VEHICLES. I CANNOT UNDERSTAND WHY THE NHTSA HAS NOT STEPPED UP AND FORCED CHRYSTLER/JEEP TO RECALL THESE VEHICLES. THE OLDER VEHILES ARE NOT SAFE. IT IS YOUR ETHICAL RESPONSIBILITY TO DO SOMETHING TO PROTECT THE CONSUMERS!

I BOUGHT MY JEEP IN OCTOBER 2000 AND HAD IT UNDERCOATED AT THE DEALERSHIP BEFORE IT EVER LEFT THE LOT. I HAD TAKEN IT BACK IN MULTIPLE TIMES TO HAVE IT RECOATED AND WHILE THE THE BODY EXPERIENCED SOME RUST DUE TO STONE CHIPS AND AGE THE FRAME STILL LOOKED GOOD UNTIL LAST YEAR WHEN I WENT TO HAVE SOME WORK DONE ON THE JEEP. WHEN LIFTING UP THE JEEP TO WORK ON IT, WE FOUND THAT THE FRAME HAD SOME STRANGE MARKS THAT SEEMED TO BE SHOWING ON THE FRAME. WHEN WE SCRATCHED OFF SOME OF THE UNDERCOATING WE FOUND THAT THE FRAME WAS CRUMBLING FROM THE INSIDE OUT. AFTER LOOKING CLOSER AT THE FRAME WE DISCOVERED THAT DAIMLER CHRYSLER HAD LEFT OPEN HOLES IN THE FRAME INSIDE OF BOTH FRONT AND REAR WHEEL WELLS ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME NEAR THE TOP OF THE ARC OF THE CURVE IN THE FRAME. THIS MAY HAVE BEEN AN OK DESIGN BUT THEY DID NOT LEAVE ANY DRAIN HOLES IN THE FRAME AT ALL. THIS HAS LEAD TO THE ENTIRE FRAME BEING COMPROMISED WITH NO WAY TO KNOW THAT IT WAS HAPPENING AND NO WAY TO TRY TO PREVENT IT. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AS A FAILURE OF THE FRAME WHILE DRIVING WILL LEAD TO LOSS OF CONTROL AS WELL AS THE RISK OF INJURY OR DEATH.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND MY JEEP CAUGHT FIRE FROM UNDERNEATH. I HAD TO STOP AND JUMP OUT TO SURVIVE. IT BURNT COMPLETELY. NOTHING SURVIVED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER YJ. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE. IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE FRAME WAS SEVERELY RUSTED AND THE VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE DRIVEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

CATASTROFIC FRAME ROT DUE TO DEFECTIVE DESIGN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE DID NOT PASS INSPECTION BECAUSE THE FRAME ON BOTH SIDES UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE WAS RUSTED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 177,000.

FRAME TOTALLY RUSTED WHEN BOUGHT FROM PRIVATE SELLER. THERE ARE HOLES AND RUST EVERYWHERE. WE TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC WHO SAID IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE. THE JEEP ONLY HAS 114,000 MILES ON IT! WE PAID 7500 AND ALL WE BOUGHT IS A RUSTED FRAME BUT A BEAUTIFUL VEHICLE. NOW WE MUST PARK IT. WE CAN'T AFFORD TO FIX IT!!! CHRYSLER SHOULD HAVE A RECALL. WE COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED DRIVING IT!!!

2000 JEEP WRANGLER FRAME RUSTED COMPLETELY OUT !

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH AND ATTEMPTING TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE, THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE CRASHED INTO A ROCK WALL BARRIER. THE FRONT DRIVER AND PASSENGER AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE DRIVER EXPERIENCED MINOR SORENESS THAT DID NOT REQUIRE MEDICAL ATTENTION. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE VEHICLE SUSTAINED DAMAGE TO THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE BUMPER AND THE FRAME. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC TO BE DIAGNOSED AND REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 139,000.

JEEP FAILED STATE INSPECTION DUE TO RUSTED FRAME COMPONENTS. CANNOT BE DRIVEN DAFELY UNTIL REPAIRS ARE MADE AT OWNERS EXPENSE. NEW FRAME ESTIMATES INCL LABOR AND MATERIAL ABOUT $10000. JEEP CUSTOMER SERVICE REPR HUNG UP ON ME WHEN CALLED.

JEEP HAS LESS THAN 40,000 MILES AND IS WELL MAINTAINED NEVER OFF ROAD. . WAS DRIVING OVER A BRIDGE WHEN THE REAR END FELT LIKE IT WAS SEPARATING FROM THE BODY OF THE JEEP. JEEP BECAME IMPOSSIBLE TO CONTROL AND I WAS ALMOST HIT TRYING TO GET THE VEHICLE OFF THE ROAD. JEEP WAS TOWED TO MECHANIC WHO SAID THE FRAME IS NO GOOD REAR CONTROL ARMS SEPARATED FROM THE FRAME THE FRAME HAD RUSTED OUT FROM THE INSIDE. THERE IS NO SOLID STEEL LEFT TO WELD ONTO.

FRAME RUSTED FROM INSIDE OUT CAUSING BOTH UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND PASSENGER REAR TO SEPARATE. LUCKILY IT DID NOT HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING , WAS NOTICED WHEN SAFETY INSPECTION WAS DONE.

SKID PLATE (WHICH SUPPORTS TRANSMISSION) DETACHED FROM FRAME DUE TO RUST ON FRAME RAILS. THE FRAME NEEDED TO BE PATCHED TO REATTACH THE SKID PLATE.

EVERY TIME IT RAINS THE DRIVERS FLOOR IS FLOODED. I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE IN 3 TIMES FOR THIS.

OVER HEATING OF A/C - HEATER CONTROL SWITCH WHILE IN USE CAUSED THE SWITCH CONNECTOR, SWITCH AND PART OF THE HVAC CONTROL PANEL TO MELT. ON THE VERGE OF FIRE THE FAN STOPPED FUNCTIONING. RETRIEVED THE SAME UNIT OFF A DONER VEHICLE [1J4FA59S3YP733181] AND FOUND THE CONTROL TO BE MELTED/BURNT IN THE SAME FASHION. WHEN I LOOKED FOR A REPLACEMENT, THE PARTS SUPPLIERS OFFERED A READY-MADE REPLACEMENT WIRE HARNESS [POTENTIAL CLUE OF COMMON FAILURE]. THE MOPAR REPLACEMENT PART IS LISTED AS DISCONTINUED. I HAVE TAKEN PHOTOS OF THE ISSUES DESCRIBED, BUT WILL HAVE TO GET THEM DEVELOPED AND DIGITIZED [MY DIGITAL CAMERA WON'T TAKE CLOSE-UP PICS].

JEEP FRAME HAS RUSTED FROM INSIDE TO OUT. COULD HAVE BEEN VERY SERIOUS. MADE POPPING NOISE.

ALL NOTES I HAVE FOUND INCLUDING ONLINE FORMS REQUESTING THIS YEAR KEEPS FRAME BE RECALLED, ROTTEN AT BUMPERS WHERE STEERING COMES INTO PLAY AND OTHER SPOTS MID FRAME... HUSBAND WAS DRIVING WHEN THE FRAME LET GO, HE WAS IN ABLE TO STEER THE VEHICLE AT ALL! THE JEEP WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND HAD TO BE TOWED WHICH CAUSED THE ROAD TO BECOME UNSAFE AS IT WAS STOPPED AT THE BOTTOM OF A HILL WITH TRAFFIC FLYING OVER THE HILL... HE ALMOST GO HIT 5 TIMES HE COULD HAVE DIED EASILY HAD HE NOT JUMPED OUT AND CALLED FOR IMMEDIATE ASSISTANCE

FRAME HAS BEEN RUSTING PREMATURELY FOR MANY YEARS AND IS A DANGER!

I WAS DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND NOTICED THAT WHEN I SHIFTED THE BACK END OF THE VEHICLE MOVED. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO A REPAIR SHOP AND WAS TOLD THAT THE LOWER REAR PASSENGER CONTROL ARM HAD COMPLETELY RUSTED OFF AND BROKE AND THE DRIVERS SIDE WAS ABOUT TO BREAK AT ANY TIME. I WAS ADVISED TO STOP DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SAFETY REASONS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE REAR FRAME SEPARATED FROM THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND STATED THAT THERE WERE NO RECALLS ON THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 175,000.

BOUGHT NEW CARE CHECKING TO SEE IF THERE ARE ANY RECALLS

MY FRAME HAS RUSTED OUT RIGHT BEFORE THE REAR WHEELS. THIS IS RESULTING IN A FRAME SWAP, AND MY MECHANIC SAID THIS IS WHERE HE ALWAYS SEE WRANGLERS GET RUST ROT. IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN GARAGE KEPT, AND HAD RUST PROTECTANT EVERY WINTER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE STEERING WHEEL SHOOK VIOLENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS CORRODED THROUGH AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 176,529.

TAMARA RECALL MY 2000 JEEP WRANGLER THE FRAME IS ROTTED AWAY IN THE REAR WHERE IT GOES ABOVE THE REAR AXEL.

I GOT MY 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SAHARA FROM PARENTS THEY BOUGHT IT NEW FROM DEALERSHIP. WHEN IT HIT ABOUT 150,000 MILES WHEN IN MOTION NO MATER HOW MUCH GAS IS IN IT, IT ACTS LIKE YOU HAVE RUN OUT . IT CUTS OUT, SLOWS DOWN, AND SOMETIMES WILL BACKFIRE THEN WILL GO AGAIN. SOMETIMES IF YOU TURN OFF THE KEY AND START IT AGAIN IT STOPS DOING IT,OTHER TIMES IT ONLY HELPS FOR A MILE THEN CUTS OUT AGAIN.I NOW HAVE 210,000 MILES ON IT, AND I NEVER KNOW WHEN IT WILL DO IT. I AM AT A LOSS CAN NOT FIGURE OUT WHAT IT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM.I KNOW THE JEEP IS 16 YEARS OLD AND I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE A NUMBER OF PARTS ON IT AND THAT'S FINE I UNDERSTAND THAT'S NORMAL. I JUST CAN'T FIGURE OUT THE CUTTING OUT PART. ALSO WHEN ADDING GAS IT KICKS OFF THE PUMP LIKE IT FULL EVEN WHEN IT'S NOT (EVERY 4 TO 7 CENTS) SOMETIMES SPLASHING GAS BACK ON ME. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR 5 YEARS NOW.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. AFTER PARKING AND SHUTTING OFF THE VEHICLE, SMOKE APPEARED UNDER THE HOOD WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 02V104000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

WHILE UNDER JEEP NOTICED THE FRAME IS REALLY RUSTED. REAL BAD IN FRONT OF LEFT REAR WHEEL AND BEHIND RIGHT FRONT. NOT SAFE TO DRIVE. BODY LOOKS LIKE NEW HAS 100000 MILES ON IT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE IDLING AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT OPERATIONAL AFTER THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE MADE AN ABNORMAL NOISE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE SHIFTER WAS ABLE TO BE MOVED, BUT THE VEHICLE DID NOT RESPOND. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A SECOND DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD A DEFECTIVE TRANSFER CASE THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 79,000.

FRAME IS ROTTING HAS BEEN GARAGE KEPT ,ALL ITS LIFE

THE PCM/ECU (CARS COMPUTER OR BRAIN), THAT CONTROLS EVERYTHING IN THE VEHICLE, SENSORS, EMISSIONS, FUEL ETC.HAS GONE OUT FOR THE SECOND TIME CAUSING A CRANK NO START ISSUE. TOOK VEHICLE TO MY LOCAL JEEP DEALER (HEMET, CA.) FOR THEM TO CHARGE ME $1450.00!!! FOR A NEW PCM! AND NOT A NEW PART, BUT A REBUILT ONE! I CAN FIND FACTORY REPLACEMENT PCM'S ONLINE FOR $520.00 NEW NOT REBUILT! HAVE READ NUMEROUS OWNER CO MPLAINTS ABOUT THIS VERY SAME PART AND WONDERED, "WHY NO RECALL OR TSB"? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP.

FRAME RUSTED COMPLETELY NEAR REAR ARM ON THE FRAME, WAS SWERVING AS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, 120,000 MILES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR AN INSPECTION, THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS CORRODED AND NEEDED TO BE WELDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 73,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

THE RIGHT REAR LOWER TRAILING (CONTROL) ARM DETACHED OR BROKE OFF THE FRAME WHILE DRIVING MY JEEP ON A FAIRLY BUSY ROAD AT 50 MPH. ON INSPECTION FOUND THE ENTIRE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FRAME IS ROTTED AND THIN IN SEVERAL KEY AREAS OF THE FRAME. IN THE SHOP NOW. JEEP HAS 150,000 ON IT. LEFT SIDE OF THE FRAME IS BETTER. EXPECTED MORE FROM JEEP, THIS PUT US IN A HUGE AMOUNT OF DANGER AND WE ARE LUCKY WE DIDN'T WRECK OR WORSE, FLIP THE JEEP. I SEE ONE COMPLAINT AFTER THE OTHER WITH THE SAME DAMAGE. THANKS JEEP AND CHRYSLER FOR THAT. WE WERE DOING 50 IN A SLIGHT LEFT HAND CURVE, THINK ABOUT IT. INSPECT YOUR FRAMES.

WAS SWERVING WILL DRIVING MY 2000 JEEP WRANGLER, FOUND OUT THE FRAME WAS ALMOST RUSTED THROUGH, BACK NEAR THE REAR TIRE. THE JEEP ONLY HAS 120,000 MILES ON IT. THEY ARE MAKING FRAME REPAIR KITS EVERY WHERE, CAUSE THIS IS SUCH A BIG PROBLEM. THERE ARE HOLES EVERY WHERE IN THE FRAME, BUT NO DRAIN HOLES IN THE BOTTOM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE ROTATING THE REAR TIRES, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE FRAME IN FRONT OF THE REAR TIRE WAS CORRODED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 175,000.

WHEN DRIVING IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD THE PASSENGER SIDE TRAILING ARM ON THE REAR AXLE DETACHED FROM THE FRAME BECAUSE OF RUST. UPON FURTHER INSPECTION THE WHOLE FRAME IS EXTREMELY RUSTY AND HAS HOLES IN IT.

WHILE PUTTING MY T.J. ON A LIFT FOR INSPECTION THE PASSENGER SIDE FRAME CRACKED IN HALF. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THE FRAME WILL HAVE TO BE REPAIRED DUE TO DETERIERATION.

THE FRAME OF MY JEEP WRANGLER TJ MODEL HAS ROTTED COMPLETELY THROUGH. THE VEHICLE IS ONLY 15 YEARS OLD. I WAS DRIVING ON MY WAY TO WORK ON CITY STREETS WHEN MY SKID PLATE THAT HOLDS MY TRANSFER CASE COMPLETELY PULLED OUT OF THE PASSENGER SIDE LEAVING A LOT OF STRESS ON MY TRANSFER CASE. AFTER I GOT IT HOME, I WOULD NOT DRIVE IT FOR FEAR OF PERSONAL INJURY OR FURTHER DAMAGE TO THE JEEP. LUCKILY FOR ME I DIDN'T. AFTER SITTING FOR I NOTICED I HAD A SEVERE LEAN TOWARDS THE DRIVERS SIDE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE AREA WHERE THE CONTOL ARMS ARE ATTATCHED TO THE FRAME ALSO PULLED OFF. THAT PART OF THE FRAME ONLY HAD 1/2 INCH OF MATERIAL LEFT ON THE TOP EDGE. IF I WOULD HAVE BEEN DRIVING AT THIS TIME, I COULD HAVE BEEN SEVERELY INJURED OR KILLED. WHEN I BOUGHT A NEW FRAME AND HAD IT REPLACED I INSPECTED MY OLD ONE. THERE WERE HOLES AND VERY THIN AREAS FROM THE FRONT CONTROL ARMS TO THE REAR BUMPER. IT LOOKED LIKE WATER AND DEBRIS COULD GET IN THE SIDE OF THE FRAME BUT HAD NOWHERE TO GO ONCE IT WAS INSIDE. THIS CAUSED THE FRAME TO ROT FROM THE INSIDE OUT LEAVING ME WITH NO WARNING OF ANY DAMAGE UNTIL IT STARTED TO FALL APART.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WAS SERVICING THE VEHICLE, HE OBSERVED THE CHASSIS WAS RUSTED. AS A RESULT, THE ENTIRE CHASSIS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 87,000. UPDATED 11/18/15*LJ

2000 JEEP WRANGLED FRAME HAS SEVERE RUST ISSUE'S! FROM MY READING ONLINE THIS IS A WIDE SPREAD ISSUE WITH JEEP WRANGLERS AND NO RECALL HAS BEEN ISSUED. THERE ARE HOLES IN THE FRAME THAT ALLOW DEBRI, WATER, SAND, DIRT ETC. TO GET IN THE FRAME AND RUST IT OUT AND BECOME A SAFETY ISSUE AND OR RESULT IN COSTLY REPAIRS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE PARKED, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND EXTENDED TO THE FLOORBOARD. THE CONTACT OPENED THE HOOD AND NOTICED FLAMES. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE NUMBER THREE CYLINDER WAS BURNED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 160,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S SKID PLATE WAS WITNESSED UNDER THE VEHICLE, WHICH IS WHAT PROMPTED A CLOSER LOOK AT THE VEHICLE. UPON LOOKING MORE CLOSELY, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE VEHICLE'S FRAME WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED AT THE BOTTOM. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200,000. UPDATED 09/10/15*LJ

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE CONTACT HEARD A LOUD SOUND AND THE CROSS MEMBER FRACTURED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE STALLED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE RESTARTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 191,106.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE AND BRAKE LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE CAM SHAFT AND CRANK SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE REPAIRS WERE MADE, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT UPON INSPECTION, IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE SUBFRAME OF THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED SEVERE RUSTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 41,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE GEARS BECAME EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO CHANGE OVER WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ALSO HEARD A GRINDING NOISE UPON CHANGING GEARS AND THE VEHICLE WOBBLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO CAUTIOUSLY DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP. THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE UNDERBODY FRAMING FRACTURED DUE TO CORROSION AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 210,000.

FRAME IS ROTTING AWAY. VEHICLE IS GARAGE KEPT. NO SPECIFIC AREA BECAUSE ITS THE ENTIRE FRAME. THESE VEHICLES COST ENTIRELY TOO MUCH MONEY FOR THIS TO BE HAPPENING. THERE ARE MANY COMPLAINTS ON HERE WITH THE SAME ISSUE. CHRYSLER APPARENTLY DIDN'T FEEL IT NECESSARY TO STEP UP TO THE PLATE AND FIX THE ISSUE. IF I WAS NOT A KNOWLEDGEABLE INDIVIDUAL, THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE FOR SOMEONE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AND FRAME OF JEEP BREAKING. I'M SURE IT'S ALREADY HAPPENED AND IS JUST NOT BEING ACKNOWLEDGED. *TR

PREMATURE RUSTING OF THE CHASSIS FRAME. MAY HAVE TO REPAIR OR REPLACE FRAME SECTIONS OR POSSIBLY THE ENTIRE FRAME DUE TO PREMATURE CORRODING OF THE FRAME. APPARENTLY A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH WRANGLER OWNERS. *TR

PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE IN 21013 FROM A PRIVATE SELLER. UPON CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL ONE DAY SHORTLY THEREAFTER, NOTICED THE PASSENGER SIDE FRAME AREA, WHERE THE REAR, LOWER CONTROL ARM IS MOUNTED, WAS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH! I HAVE SINCE HAD THIS REPAIRED, AT AN ADDITIONAL COST OF $800.00. ALSO, NOTICED THE PASSENGER SIDE FRAME ALL ALONG WHERE THE TRANSMISSION SKID PLATE IS MOUNTED - IS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH ALONG APPROXIMATELY 8" ALONG THE BOTTOM! I CAN RUN 4 FINGERS IN THE BOTTOM OF THIS FRAME! AND, THE FRONT SKID PLATE NUTSERTS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE SKID PLATE, ARE GONE! RUSTED AWAY - COMPLETELY! PREVIOUS OWNER HAD THE SKID PLATE ACTUALLY WELDED TO THE FRAME! THIS SHOULD NEVER, EVER HAPPEN! I HAVE A 2003 TOYOTA 4RUNNER WITH ZERO FRAME RUST - ZERO! LOOKS BRAND NEW TO THIS DAY! COME TAKE A LOOK. MANY, MANY, MANY AND WAY TOO NUMEROUS TO MENTION PEOPLE HAVE THIS SAME FRAME RUST PROBLEM ON THEIR JEEPS. WHY IS THIS? THIS IS NOT SAFE, YET THESE VEHICLES ARE RE-SOLD OVER AND OVER AGAIN. THIS IS 2015. NO OTHER VEHICLE - AMERICAN OR IMPORT - HAS THIS PROBLEM. WHY IS THIS ALLOWED TO HAPPEN? MUST PEOPLE GET KILLED DURING THEIR ENJOYMENT OF THEIR SUPPOSEDLY "SAFE", IN THIS CASE, AMERICAN MADE VEHICLE BEFORE DEALERS AND THE NHTSA WILL APPLY A REPAIR BULLETIN? TOYOTA, IS STILL BUYING BACK TRUCKS WITH FRAME RUST - WHY ISN'T THE AMERICAN COMPANY CHRYSLER? HMMMM. *TR

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THIS FRAME HAS EXTREME RUST ISSUES. THE INTERNAL FRAME WAS NOT CORRECTLY PROTECTED FORM WEATHER RESULTING IN EXCESSIVE RUST THAT HAS A HIGH RISK OF FRAME FAILURE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO SHAKE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THERE WAS CORROSION AROUND THE CROSS MEMBER OF THE FRAME ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED THAT THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 170,000.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 15 MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED TO MAKE AN ABNORMAL KNOCKING AND BUCKING NOISE. AFTER INSPECTING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT WAS ROTTED AWAY FROM THE FRAME. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER AND WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000. THE VIN NUMBER WAS UNAVAILABLE. UPDATED 4/15/15*CN UPDATED 9/21/2017*CN

THE ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD WAS CRACKED BETWEEN NUMBER THREE AND FOUR CYLINDERS FOR A UNDETERMINED AMOUNT OF TIME. JEEP WOULD NOT CONFIRM THAT A UPDATED CYLINDER WAS MADE TO FIX THE ISSUE. I WAS TOLD THAT JEEP HAD NO RECORDS OF CYLINDER HEADS CRACKING. A REPLACEMENT HEAD HAS BEEN INSTALLED BUT THE OIL PRESSURE IS LOW DUE TO THE EXCESSIVE BEARING WEAR CAUSE BY COOLANT IN THE OIL. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE SHUDDERED VIOLENTLY. AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC STATED THAT BOTH FRONT STEERING MOUNTS WERE RUSTED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 193,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRAME THAT COVERED THE TRANSMISSION WAS COMPLETELY CORRODED AND THE SCREWS WERE COMING UNDONE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE TECHNICIAN RECOMMENDED FOR THE FRAME TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURED WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

SEVERITY DEPENDS ON GAS PUMP AND STATION. VEHICLE REFUSES TO LET FUEL FLOW, AND CLICKS OFF CONSTANTLY THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS OF FILLING THE CAR WITH FUEL. WHEN FUEL DOES FLOW, IT SPILLS OUT THE SIDE OF THE CAR WHEN FILLING IS COMPLETE RATHER THAN CLICKING OFF SAFELY. HAPPENS EVERY TIME. *TR

I HAVE A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER WITH ONLY 44,500 MILES. ALTHOUGH IT HAS BEEN DRIVEN IN THE SNOW OCCASIONALLY, IT IS NOT A DAILY DRIVER AND IS KEPT IN A GARAGE. THE FRAME HAS RUSTED THROUGH ON BOTH SIDES AT THE ATTACHMENT POINT OF THE REAR AXLE LOWER CONTROL ARMS. THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM IN ALL JEEP TJ TYPE WRANGLERS AND IS ATTRIBUTED TO THE LACK OF DRAIN HOLES IN THE FRAME. PERHAPS A RECALL SHOULD BE CONSIDERED AS THIS COULD CAUSE A LOSS OF CONTROL. *TR

INTERMITTENTLY THE VEHICLE WILL JUMP OUT OF FIRST GEAR DURING ENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH. THE FAILURE LEAVES THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL. MERGING INTO TRAFFIC CAN BE A VERY DANGEROUS WHEN THE GEAR SHIFT JUMPS INTO NEUTRAL. *TR

JEEP WRANGLERS FROM 1997 TO 2006 HAVE ISSUES WITH BADLY RUSTED FRAMES TO THE POINT OF BEING UNSAFE. TOYOTA HAD ISSUED A RECALL WHERE THEY WERE BUYING BACK PICKUPS OR REPLACING FRAMES. WHY CAN'T JEEP DO THE SAME? *TR

AFFECTED PARTS: FRAME AND SUSPENSION LAST WEEKEND I WAS DRIVING 2000 JEEP TJ THOUGHT I HAD A SHOCK MOUNT BREAK. THE JEEP WOBBLED AND I LOST CONTROL OF KEEPING THE JEEP STRAIGHT IN MY LANE ALMOST HITTING A CAR IN THE OTHER LANE. I CHECKED UNDER THE JEEP AND NOTICED THE REAR PASSENGER LOWER TRAIL ARM BROKE TOTALLY AWAY FROM THE FRAME DUE TO RUST. LOOKING ON FORUMS AND THE WEB READ ABOUT SAFETCAP AUTORUST FRAME SECTIONS. SO THINKING THIS MIGHT BE AN OPTION TO REPAIR IT ASKED A FRIEND THAT USED TO WORK AT A BODY SHOP TAKE A LOOK. HE TOOK A LOOK AND WAS SHOCKED HOW BAD THE JEEP WAS RUSTED FOR BEING A 2000. DIDN'T NOTICE UNTIL WE LOOKED AGAIN BUT THE SKID PLATE IS ALSO FALLING AWAY FROM THE FRAME. HE IS NOT SURE HE WOULD HAVE ANY GOOD METAL TO WELD TO AND ALSO SAID IT WILL BE LIKE DOMINOS THERE WILL BE MORE FAILED RUSTED PARTS UNDER THE JEEP LIKE BRAKE LINES ETC. FRIEND SAID SAFETY IS A HUGE CONCERN EVEN IF YOU WERE ABLE TO PATCH IT BECAUSE SO MUCH OF THE FRAME AND COMPONENTS ARE RUSTED SO BAD. I DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES, KNOWLEDGE OR EXTRA MONEY TO THROW COUPLE GRAND AT IT AND REPLACE THE FRAME. SINCE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE HAS ANYONE HAD ANY LUCK COMMUNICATING THIS TO JEEP CHRYSLER DEALERS OR HEARD ANYONE THAT HAS? COUPLE OPTIONS I SEE NOW ARE TO PART IT OUT OR TRY TO SELL IT AS IT STANDS. ANY SUGGESTIONS? I NEVER WENT ON ANY ROUGH TRAILS BECAUSE IT WAS A PRIMARY VEHICLE. FOR A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT TJ THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. DOES JEEP NOT TREAT THE FRAMES WITH RUST PROTECTION? IS THE FRAME JUST POORLY DESIGNED? WILL NEVER PURCHASE ANOTHER JEEP VEHICLE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SAHARA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED AND BEGAN TO PERFORM ABNORMAL WITHOUT ANY WARNINGS. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT AFTER DRIVING ONTO THE EMERGENCY LANE, HE NOTICED SMOKE WAS EMITTING FROM THE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD AND MINUTES LATER THE VEHICLE WAS COMPLETELY ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 204,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRAME WAS RUSTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS OR REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 140,000. *TR

-AT APPROXIMATELY FIFTY-FIVE TO SIXTY MILES PER HOUR, THE VEHICLE'S FRONT END BEGINS TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY. I HAVE PERSONALLY RESEARCHED THE PROBLEM AND DISCOVERED THAT IT IS COMMONLY CALLED, "DEATH WOBBLE" AMONGST OTHER JEEP OWNERS. THE ISSUE TYPICALLY OCCURS AFTER HITTING A BUMP IN THE ROAD OR DRIVING AROUND A BEND ON THE HIGHWAY. SINCE THE FIRST INCIDENT IN EARLY 2009, I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO A NUMBER OF DIFFERENT LOCAL MECHANICS FOR A DIAGNOSIS AND HAVE HEARD DIFFERENT SUGGESTED COURSES OF ACTION FROM EACH ONE. I HAVE HAD A NUMBER OF COMPONENTS REPLACED ON THE VEHICLE INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE (1) TRACKING BAR, (2) U-JOINTS, (3) STEERING DAMPENER ETC. I HAVE ALSO HAD AN ENTIRE NEW SET OF TIRES REPLACED ON THE VEHICLE. ALTHOUGH REPLACING THE TRACKING BAR WORKED TEMPORARILY, THE PROBLEM SOON RETURNED AFTER ADDING AN ADDITIONAL 10,000 - 15,000 MILES TO THE VEHICLE. -ALTHOUGH MANY OTHER JEEP OWNERS HAVE REPORTED THE SAME ISSUE OVER THE YEARS, NO ACTION HAS BEEN TAKEN IN THE FORM OF A RECALL FROM THE FORMER "DAIMLERCHRYSLER AG" OR ITS SUCCESSOR "CHRYSLER GROUP L.L.C." OR IT'S SUBSIDIARY "JEEP CORPORATION." *TR

THE ENGINE HAS RELEASED MORE THAN ONE GALLON OF ANTIFREEZE INTO THE OILING SYSTEM IN LESS THAN 500 MILES. AFTER REMOVAL OF THE VALVE COVER, A FRACTURE IN THE COOLING SYSTEM CYLINDER HEAD WATER JACKET HAS BEEN FOUND BETWEEN CYLINDERS 3 AND 4 THAT PERMITS COOLANT TO ENTER INTO THE OILING SYSTEM. THE DEALERSHIP STATED THAT THE CYLINDER HEADS ARE KNOWN TO CRACK WITHOUT CAUSE, CAN BE REPLACED WITH A CYLINDER HEAD THAT MAYBE PRONE TO CRACKING AGAIN AND IN ADDITION WILL REQUIRE SEVERAL MORE COMPONENTS TO BE REPLACED. THE DEALERSHIP OFFERED NO FURTHER INFORMATION. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OVER-CONSUMING ANTI FREEZE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED INSPECTED THE VEHICLE AND DISCOVERED THAT THE ENGINE HEAD WAS CRACKED, CAUSING THE ANTIFREEZE TO MIX WITH THE ENGINE OIL. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 82,000.

I OWN A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER WHICH I BOUGHT NEW. RECENTLY I BEGAN HAVING TROUBLE SHIFTING INTO SECOND GEAR AND SOMETIMES IT WOULD POP OUT WHILE DRIVING. SOON AFTER I BEGAN TO HAVE BRAKE ISSUES AND HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT IT. HE SAID HE HAD NEVER SEEN A JEEP RUSTED OUT SO BAD WITH SO FEW MILES ON IT AND SAID IT WAS A HAZARD TO DRIVE. HE SAID THE BRAKE LINES WERE RUSTED THROUGH AS WELL AS THE SUPPORT FOR THE TRANSMISSION . HE SAID THE FRAME WAS IN TERRIBLE SHAPE AND SAID I WAS LUCKY THE THING DIDN'T FALL APART WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT. THIS VEHICLE ONLY HAS 85,000 MILES ON IT. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ALONG A RURAL ROAD WHEN I HIT A BUMP AND THE TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER TORE AWAY FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT IN TO 2ND, 4TH, OR REVERSE. IT IS DUE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME ROTTING AWAY. UPON CLOSER INSPECTION I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE FRAME IS ROTTED BEYOND REPAIR AND THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BRACKETS ARE IN DANGER OF BEING RIPPED FROM THE FRAME IF VEHICLE IS DRIVEN. THE FRAME HAS PREMATURELY ROTTED AND IS A DANGER TO ANYONE WHO DRIVES OR ENCOUNTERS THIS VEHICLE ON THE ROAD IN PASSING. I HAVE INVESTIGATED THE POSSIBILITY OF REPLACING THE FRAME BUT HAVE FOUND IT HARD TO FIND A SUITABLE REPLACEMENT DUE TO THIS PROBLEM BEING VERY WIDESPREAD. IT IS IN FACT SO WIDESPREAD THAT A COMPANY CALLED AUTO RUST REPAIR MAKES PREFAB FRAME PATCHES. THESE INCIDENTS OF ROT ARE VERY SIMILAR TO THE ONES THAT CAUSED TOYOTA TO RECALL MANY PICKUPS OVER THE LAST FIVE YEARS OR SO. *TR

THE JEEP HAS ONLY 70,000 MILES ON IT AND IS IN GOOD SHAPE EXECPT FOR THE FRAME IS RUSTED OUT AND MY HUSBAND HAD TO WELD SOME SUPPORT BARS WHERE THE FRAME WAS RUSTED OUT. IS THERE ANY KIND OF SAFETY RECALL THAT WE CAN COME BACK ON THE DEALER WITH THIS? WE HAVE ONLY HAD THIS JEEP FOR ABOUT 3 MONTHS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STARTED JERKING VIOLENTLY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES PRIOR TO THE RECENT FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE BUT ADVISED THE CONTACT TO HAVE THE TIRES BALANCED. IN ADDITION, THE DEALER ADVISED THAT THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE WOULD NEED A TROUBLESHOOT. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BUT THE REMEDY FAILED TO REPAIR THE ISSUE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 24,000.

I WAS DRIVING AND I WENT TO TURN THE CORNER I LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. MY MECHANIC SHOWED ME THE FRAME HAS ROTTED OUT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE VEHICLE FROM THE REAR END TO WHERE THE DOORS ARE. THIS VEHICLE DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH SALT WATER . ALSO THERE WAS NO WAY OF ME KNOWING THAT THIS WAS GOING TO HAPPEN. I COULD HAVE BEEN DRIVING FASTER AND THIS WOULD OF CAUSED A ACCIDENT WHERE I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED OR KILLED SOMEONE ELSE. THE VEHICLE CAN NO LONGER BE FIXED. I FEEL THAT THIS SHOULD NEVER ROTTED OUT THE WAY IT DID. THIS VEHICLE WAS ACTUALLY BUILT FOR MYSELF AND DELIVERED IN OCTOBER OF 1999. *TR

FRAME AND SUPPORTS RUSTED TO THE POINT OF OFFERING NO STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF UNDERCARRIAGE. FRAME ON DRIVERSIDE AT SKID PLATE RUSTED ALLOWING THE SKID PLATE TO FALL. OBSERVED SEVERE RUST-THROUGH OF FRAME ALONG FRAME WHERE SKID PLATE HAD BEEN BOLTED. ALSO TRANSMISSION SUPPORT FAILED. HAVE PREVIOUSLY REPLACED FAILED BRAKE LINES WHICH RUSTED THROUGH. I HAVE PARKED THE VEHICLE AS IT IS UNSAFE. I THINK I REALIZED IT TOO LATE, HOWEVER SOON ENOUGH TO HAVE PREVENTED A MAJOR ACCIDENT. WARNINGS NEED TO BE ISSUED IMMEDIATELY OF THESE AND OTHER DEFECTS WHICH HAVE BEEN NOTED BY JEEP OWNERS, ESPECIALLY FOR POTENTIAL BUYERS. THE FRAME APPARENTLY RUST FROM INSIDE OUT LEAVING LITTLE INDICATION OF SEVERITY. *KB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 55 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE BEGAN WOBBLING AND SHAKING ABNORMALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS INSPECTED BY A LOCAL MECHANIC WHO ADVISED THAT THE MAIN CROSS MEMBER, WHICH HAD ROTTED FROM CORROSION, DETACHED AND FELL WITH THE BOLTS STILL IN TACT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED WHO OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE WAS UNSURE IF THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE WIRING TO THE A/C CONTROL SWITCH SHORTS OUT AND CAUSES A MINOR FIRE. THE SWITCH HAS BEEN REPLACED AND IT HAPPENED AGAIN. THERE WAS EVIDENCE OF A PREVIOUS FIX IN SPLICED WIRING. THE WIRING HARNESS IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. RESEARCH ON JEEP RELATED WEB SITES HAS PROVEN TO ME THAT THIS IS NOT AN ISOLATED INCIDENCE AND OCCURS IN MANY OF THE SURROUNDING MODEL YEARS. THERE IS A DESIGN FLAW IN THE THREE POSTS THAT CONNECT TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH, THEY ARE TO CLOSE TO EACH OTHER. *TR

MODE SELECTOR FOR THE HVAC SYSTEM HAS A MAJOR ISSUE MELTING THE SELECTOR, HARNESS AND CONTROL MODULE. AFTER RESEARCHING THIS INCIDENT ONLINE AND TO MY SURPRISE THERE IS NO RECALL ON THIS SUBJECT. HEATER NOT WORKING, POSSIBLE HEATER SYSTEM CATCHING ON FIRE DO HI VOLTAGE TO THE MODE SELECTOR WITCH CAUSES ENTIRE HVAC FAILURE AND POSSIBLE FIRE. JEEP HAS KNOWN ABOUT THIS FOR A WHILE BUT NO ONE SEEMS TO BE GETTING ON THEM ABOUT IT. AGAIN 2000 JEEP WRANGLER HEATER CONTROL FAILURE. *TR

TREADS SEPARATED FROM TIRE AFTER 2000 MILES OF DRIVING. THIS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE AIR BAG LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL THEN BOTH THE SPEEDOMETER AND RPM GAUGE DROPPED TO 0. AFTER ONE MINUTE, THE GAUGES BEGAN FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY AND THE AIR BAG LIGHT TURNED OFF. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A LOCAL REPAIR SHOP BUT THE MECHANIC COULD NOT DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE WAS INTERMITTENT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 67,750 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 67,900. THE CONSUMER STATED NO LONGER OWNS THE VEHICLE. UPDATED 12/30/10

WHEN ADDING FUEL TO THE VEHICLE( FILL UP TIME), THE AUTO SHUT OFF CONTINUALLY "CLICKS" ITSELF OFF AND SPILLS FUEL. THIS CONDITION EXISTS ON AN EMPTY OR PARTIALLY FILLED TANK. I HAVE OWNED SAID VEHICLE SINCE NEW. PROBLEM DIDN'T BEGIN UNTIL ADAPTATION OF VAPOR RECOVERY DEVICES ADDED TO THE GAS STATION PUMPS. IT NOW TAKES APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES OF FRUSTRATION TO FILL THIS VEH. WITH THE 16 GALLONS REQUIRED TO FILL IT. ALSO RESULTS IN A SPILL EVERY SINGLE TIME. I BELONG TO AN ORGANIZATION DEDICATED TO THIS PARTICULAR MAKE AND MODEL OF VEHICLE, AND IT HAPPENS VERY OFTEN. *TR

2000 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT. GAS OVERFILLS AND CAUSES A GAS SPILL OF 6-8 OZ OF GAS, EVERY TIME I FILL UP. *TR

HVAC WIRING HARNESS AND SWITCH MELTED DUE TO FAULTY BLOWER MOTOR COMPOUNDED BY INADEQUATE SIZE WIRE. CHRYSLER DOES NOT EVEN SELL A REPAIR KIT EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE NEW CASES CONSTANTLY ON THE WRANGLER TJ ON INTRANET FORUMS. SOME ARE EVEN VEHICLE CATCHING FIRE. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. THE VEHICLE HAS INTERCO SUPER SWAMPERS IROC TIRES, SIZE 37/12.5/15. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH ON NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS, THE VEHICLE BEGAN WOBBLING EXCESSIVELY AND PULLING IN ONE DIRECTION. IMMEDIATELY, THE DRIVER PULLED OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND INSPECTED THE VEHICLE. HE NOTICED THAT ALL FOUR TIRES EXHIBITED UNEVEN TREAD BELT AND WERE OUT OF ROUND. THE TIRES WERE RECENTLY PURCHASED IN 2009. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE DEFECTIVE TIRES, BUT DID NOT ASSIST. THE VIN, DOT NUMBER, AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 104,000.

1) COOLANT LEAK - CRACKED HEAD (4.0 L V6 - THIS IS A COMMON COSTLY PROBLEM ACCORDING TO A TECH FRIEND AT CHRYSLER DEALER. EXPENSIVE REPAIR $1200 TO $2000+- CAUSE MAY BE DEFECTIVE MATERIAL WEAKENED BY OVERHEATING. 2) OIL PRESSURE (GAUGE) DROPS TO ZERO AT IDLE AND CHECK GAUGES LIGHT APPEARS 3) COOLANT GETS INTO OIL FROM INTERNAL HEAD LEAKAGE 4) CONTAMINATES THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT APPEARS. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED, THE VEHICLE SHUTS OFF WITHOUT WARNING. THE MOST RECENT FAILURE OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO PLACE THE GEAR INTO NEUTRAL AND RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER STATED THAT THEY WILL NEED TO TEST DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO LOCATE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 95,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 115,000.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE CONTACT APPROACHED A RED LIGHT AND APPLIED THE BRAKES TO COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. WHEN HE REMOVED HIS FOOT FROM THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO DECREASE IN SPEED. INSTEAD, THE ENGINE REVVED A BIT HIGHER. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKED PEDAL AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO SLOWLY DECREASE IN SPEED; HOWEVER, IT DID NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE. THERE WERE NO SERIOUS DAMAGE AND THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. THE CONTACT BELIEVES THAT IF CHILDREN HAD BEEN PRESENT, THE CRASH COULD HAVE BEEN A LOT MORE SERIOUS. HE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP FOR INSPECTION AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE FAILURE WAS VERY COMMON; HOWEVER, NO RECALLS HAD BEEN ISSUED. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE 69,000.

MY HUSBAND AND I PURCHASED A USED 2000 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF AGO AND WE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS EVER SINCE! OUR MAIN PROBLEMS ARE WITH THE BRAKES, ROTORS, CALIPERS. THE LEFT TIRE GETS EXTREMELY HOT AND THERE IS A BURNING SMELL. WE JUST RECENTLY HAD NEW BRAKES PADS AND ROTORS PUT IN AND NOW ARE HAVING THEM LOOK AT THE CALIPERS. THIS IS OUR SECOND TIME TO THE SHOP. WE ARE ALSO HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM - IT WORKS OKAY, BUT IS MAKING THE ENGINE RUN SLUGGISH WHEN THE AIR IS ON. WE ARE ALSO HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE AUTO LOCKS - GRINDING NOISE - HAD TO TURN THE HORN OFF OR WOULDN'T WORK. IT'S JUST BEEN PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM. I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE MY JEEP FOR LONG DISTANCES WHICH IS EXACTLY WHAT I GOT IT FOR! I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT BECAUSE I AM WORRIED ABOUT THE SAFETY - ABOUT THE BRAKES GOING OUT! *TR

RADIATOR ON 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION) JUST RECENTLY I WAS INFORMED BY THE JEEP DEALER WHERE I PURCHASED MY JEEP THAT THE RADIATOR WAS LEAKING AND HAD TO BE REPLACED. PURSUANT TO CONVERSATIONS WITH OTHERS WHO KNOW ME, THEY TOLD ME IT COULD PROBABLY BE REPAIRED INSTEAD OF REPLACED COSTING ME LESS. A RADIATOR SHOP CONFIRMED THAT THE RADIATOR, HAVING A PLASTIC TOP, HAD TO BE REPLACED INSTEAD OF REPAIRED. I WAS ALSO TOLD THAT NORMALLY RADIATOR PROBLEMS OCCURRED ON MUCH OLDER VEHICLES AND THAT MOST OLDER VEHICLES HAD ORIGINAL RADIATORS IN THEM EVEN IF THEY WERE REPAIRED. MY COMPLAINT IS SIMPLE. I THINK THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD NEVER HAVE PLACED A RADIATOR IN A VEHICLE WITH PLASTIC PARTS THAT CAN NOT BE REPAIRED ESPECIALLY ON A RADIATOR. CHRYSLER'S USE OF RADIATORS WITH PLASTIC ON TOP ARE CAUSING THE RADIATORS TO LEAK EASIER/QUICKER THAN NORMAL AND THEY CAN NOT BE REPAIRED. THEY MUST BE REPLACED. THIS SEEMS TO BE JUST ANOTHER WAY FOR THEM TO GET CASH FROM CONSUMERS BY MAKING THEM REPLACE INSTEAD OF REPAIR. MY JEEP HAS BEEN GARAGE KEPT SINCE I PURCHASED IT AND THE RADIATOR SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED THIS SOON SINCE I HAVE TAKEN VERY GOOD CARE OF IT AND TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER FOR SERVICE AND REPAIRS. I THINK HAVING PLASTIC ON RADIATORS SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED TO BE PLACED IN ANY VEHICLE. IT WEARS OUT QUICKER AND CANNOT BE FIXED. REPLACEMENT COST IS MUCH GREATER THAN A REPAIR COST. THANKS, CHRYSLER! I WILL NEVER LOOK AT ANOTHER JEEP AS LONG AS THEY CONTINUE TO USE RADIATORS WITH PLASTIC PARTS. *TR

DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL ON 2000 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE. BLEND DOOR FAILURE. *TR

FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER THE AIR BAG LIGHT HAS COME ON AND REMAINED ON. I HAVE ALWAYS FIGURED IT WAS JUST A PROBLEM WITH THE LIGHT. I WAS RECENTLY TOLD THAT IF THE WARNING LIGHT IS ON THE AIR BAG WILL NOT WORK. I DID NOT FIND ANY RECALLS REGARDING AIR BAGS BUT I SEE VARIOUS COMPLAINTS REGARDING AIR BAGS IN THE JEEP WRANGLER AND THIS CONCERNS ME. I AM PRINTING THESE COMPLAINTS AND BRINGING THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER BEFORE SELLING IT. I WANT TO ASSURE THE SAFETY OF ANY FUTURE DRIVERS. *JB

SITTING AT STOP LIGHT, AC QUIT BLOWING, COMPRESSOR STILL ACTIVE. HVAC MOTOR SWITCH IS MELTED FROM OVERHEATING.(POSSIBLE DASH FIRE FROM THIS) CONFIRMED BY SIGHT THIS WAS IN FACT THE PROBLEM BY MY OWN EYES. FOUND AN ARTICLE IN JP MAGAZINE OCTOBER 07 ISSUE LABELED "RETARD" TO FIX THIS PROBLEM FOR GOOD NO THANKS TO THE DEALER. *TR

1-DAILY DRIVING 2-43-47MPH VIOLENT FRONT END AND STEERING WHEEL SHAKE (DEATH SHAKE)-DON'T WANT TO DRIVE MY ONLY AND FAVORITE VEHICLE 3-I HAD THE DEALERSHIP REPLACE THE STEERING DAMPER, ROTATE THE TIRE, VERIFY THE TIRE PRESSURE, VERIFY THE TIRE ROAD WORTHINESS, CHECK THE BRAKES, BALANCE THE TIRES. IT WAS DONE IN DETROIT AND 4 MONTHS AGO. THE SHAKE NEVER WENT AWAY. THERE IS NO LOGICAL EXPLANATION. EVERYTHING CHECKS OUT AND THE STEERING DAMPER ISN'T LEAKING. *TR * UPDATED 12/12/07 *BF UPDATED 12/12/07

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WILL INTERMITTENTLY GO OUT, LEAVING NO SPEEDOMETER, ODOMETER, OR RPM GAGE. THIS CAN GO OUT FOR SEVERAL MILES, OR JUST BLINK ON AND OFF. IT HAS BEEN DOING THIS FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS, AND HAVE ALREADY ATTEMPTED TO HAVE IT FIXED ONCE BY A DEALERSHIP AND SEVERAL TIMES WITH MY SON WORKING ON IT. SO FAR NOTHING HAS CORRECTED THE PROBLEM. DEALERSHIP KNEW WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS WHEN FIRST BROUGHT TO THEM ABOUT 2 1/2 YEARS AGO BUT COULD NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. BEING ON THE COMMUNITY EMERGENCY RESPONSE TEAMS, I NEED A RELIABLE VEHICLE. *JB

THE TAIL LIGHT ON MY SUV 2000 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE HAS FAILED TWICE. I FIRST NOTICED THE FAILURE SHORTLY PRIOR TO A CAR ACCIDENT IN EARLY 2006. WHEN I BROUGHT MY VEHICLE TO THE REPAIR PLACE FOR DAMAGES FROM THE ACCIDENT, I ALSO PAID OUT OF POCKET TO HAVE THE TAIL LIGHT ISSUE FIXED. THE BACK TAIL LIGHT,ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, WOULD EITHER BE FAINTLY LIT OR NOT LIGHT AT ALL WHEN I APPLIED THE BRAKE PEDAL. THE CAR REPAIR SHOP RELAXED THE PART NEEDED, WHICH WAS AT THE STEERING WHEEL HEAD LIGHT SWITCH. IT WORKED FINE AFTER THE REPLACEMENT FOR ABOUT 7 MONTHS, BEFORE FAILING AGAIN, WITH THE SAME COMPLAINTS. *JB

I HAVE ONGOING PROBLEM WITH SEATBELT SIMILAR TO SEVERAL I HAVE ALREADY SEEN REPORTED IN THAT THE BELT APPEARS TO LOCK BUT IS NOT ACTUALLY ENGAGED. IT THEN SLIPS OUT OF LATCH WHILE DRIVING. HAS TO BE INSERTED AT PRECISE ANGLE IN ORDER TO CATCH AND TAKES SEVERAL TRIALS TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN. *TR

TL* - THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING ACROSS THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE WHEN THE VEHICLE STARTED PULLING TO THE RIGHT TOWARDS THE RAIL, AND AT THE END OF THE BRIDGE THE VEHICLE THEN PULLED AGAIN TO THE RIGHT QUICKLY AND SHARPLY. THE TIRE BLEW OUT, SHE HAD NO CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE AND IT FLIPPED OVER 2 OR 3 TIMES AND LANDED ON THE TIRES. IT DID NOT HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE OR ANOTHER VEHICLE HIT THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE WEATHER WAS NICE THAT DAY, AND THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING AT 50-60 MPH. THE TREAD QUALITY ON THE TIRE WAS GOOD. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO GET PICTURES OF THE TIRE. THE CONTACT DID NOT KNOW IF THERE WAS A POLICE REPORT BECAUSE THERE WAS NO COLLISION WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE. *AK

HVAC SWITCH SHORTING AND MELTING PLUG AND/OR HARNESS. *NM

200 JEEP WRANGLER - MELTING HVAC WIRE CONNECTOR (3 WIRE CONNECTOR) ON SWITCH PANEL CAUSES THE FAN SWITCH TO SHORT OUT (MELT CONTACTS). MELTING PLASTIC SMELL FILLS THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. *NM

TL* - THE CONTACT HAS A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER WITH AN ODOMETER READING OF 100000 MILES. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE HAD PARKED THE VEHICLE FOR TEN MINUTES IN HIS DRIVEWAY WHEN HE NOTICED SMOKE COMING FROM UNDER THE HOOD. WHEN HE APPROACHED THE VEHICLE AND NOTICED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS ON FIRE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT HE EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE, BUT THE FIRE DEPARTMENT DID COME OUT AND MADE A REPORT. THE CONTACT FOUND THAT THE FIRE WAS RELATED TO RECALL 02V104000 FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM:INJECTORS, HE THEN CALLED THE MANUFACTURER, AND ONE OF THEIR INVESTIGATORS CAME OUT MADE A REPORT, BUT THEY STATED THAT THE FIRE WAS NOT CAUSED BY THE RECALL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO THE FIRE THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS ACTIVE TO INDICATE A PROBLEM. *AK

WHILE BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPOT AT LOCAL SHOPPING CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL FELT AS IF IT BOUND UP AND AN SPRING SOUND OCCURRED AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON. AS IT WAS TO LATE TO CONTACT THE DEALER I CALLED THEM ON MONDAY MORNING AND THEY ARRANGED FOR ME TO HAVE IT CHECKED ON TUESDAY. ON INVESTIGATION THEY FOUND THE AIRBAG CLOCK SPRING TO BE BROKEN AND ORDERED THE PART, WHICH I PAID FOR. ON THURSDAY I DROVE MY JEEP BACK TO THE DEALER TO HAVE THE SPRING REPLACED AND ALTHOUGH THE SPRING WAS BROKEN IT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND THE SERVICE WRITER TOLD ME IT WAS A CHAFFED WIRE IN THE STEERING COLUMN AND THAT THE AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED BUT IT DID NOT! SHE THEN TOLD ME THAT IT WOULD COST ME TO $500 TO $1600 TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM. I ASSUMED THIS WAS A SAFETY RELATED ITEM AND AS SUCH SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED . SHE CHECKED WITH THE DISTRICT REP FOR CHRYSLER LATER IN THE DAY AND THEY CLAIM NOTHING COULD BE DONE FOR ME ALTHOUGH THE JEEP ONLY HAS 40578 MILES ON IT AND I COULD NOT HAVE GOTTEN INTO THE STEERING COLUMN TO CHAFE THE WIRE. AS OF NOW I HAVE A LOANER VEHICLE WHILE THEY CHECK INTO HOW TO PROCEED. *NM

JEEP HEADLAMP LIGHTER/DIMMER SWITCH STARTED WORKING INTERMITTENTLY. WHEN PULLING SWITCH OUT, HEADLAMPS WOULD NOT RELIABLY TURN ON. ORDERED A NEW SWITCH. WHEN REPLACING SWITCH, NOTICED THAT HEADLAMP LIGHTER/DIMMER SWITCH PLASTIC ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR WAS MELTED. *JB

JEEP BLOWER MOTOR SPEED SWITCH STOPPED WORKING. UPON FURTHER INVESTIGATION AND REMOVAL UNDER DASH, A/C HEATER CONTROL CONNECTOR #3 AND A/C HEATER CONTROL UNIT SWITCH WERE BOTH MELTED. REPLACED THE UNIT AND BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR. BLOWER MOTOR AGAIN STOPPED WORKING 1 YEAR LATER. REMOVED THE A/C HEATER CONTROL UNIT. BOTH THE A/C HEATER CONTROL CONNECTOR #1 AND A/C HEATER CONTROL UNIT POINT FOR THAT CONNECTOR WERE MELTED. *JB

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THAT BOTH OF THE REAR SEATBELTS FRAYED AWAY TWICE. DURING THE FIRST INCIDENT, THE MECHANIC ACCUSED THE CONTACT OF CUTTING THE SEAT BELTS. HOWEVER, THE SERVICE DEALER MANAGER WHO IS ALSO A FIREMAN CONFIRMED THAT THE CONTACT COULD NOT CUT THE SEAT BELT. FIREMEN HAVE TO USE SPECIAL SCISSORS TO CUT SEAT BELTS IN THEIR JOB FUNCTION. THE ORIGINAL SEATBELTS WERE REPLACED BY THE SERVICE DEALER AT NO COST AFTER CONTINUAL DEBATE. THE REAR SEATBELTS HAVE FRAYED AWAY AGAIN. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALERTED THE CONTACT THAT THE REPAIRS COULD ONLY BE PERFORMED IF APPROVAL WAS GAINED FROM CHRYSLER BUT CHRYSLER DECLINED. BOTH DEALER AND MANUFACTURER REFUSED TO REPAIR THE SEAT BELT WITHOUT COST. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT PASS INSPECTION DUE TO THE DEFECTIVE SEATBELTS.

2000 WRANGLER ENGINE HEAD WAS DEFECTIVE. *TS THE MANUFACTURER REFUSED TO REPLACE THE ENGINE HEAD FREE OF CHARGE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY. *NM

1) I BOUGHT THE JEEP WRANGLER USED 2)THE LATCH SOMETIMES DOES NOT ENGAGE WHEN I PUT THE LIP OF THE SEAT BELT INTO THE SOCKET OF THE SEAT BELT. IT STICKS...IM AFRAID THAT IF I DO GET IN A WRECK IT WILL FAIL AND I WILL BE EJECTED, ESPECIALLY WITH A JEEP AND IT HAVING A HIGH ROLLOVER RISK. 3)IM SERIOUSLY THINKING OF GETTING BRAND NEW SEAT BELTS, NOT CHRYSLER BRAND BUT AFTER MARKET ONES, UNLESS CHRYLSER SOLVES THE ISSUE. *JB

ABOUT A YEAR AFTER PURCHASING MY JEEP WRANGLER I NOTICED THAT MY AIRBAG LIGHT WOULD COME ON FOR A WHILE AND THEN GO OUT REPEATEDLY. I THOUGHT THAT IT WAS JUST A FAULTY BULB AND FOR THE MOST PART IGNORED IT. THEN IT STARTED STAYING ON ALL THE TIME, SO YESTERDAY, AFTER THE HORN QUIT AND ALL THE FUSES WERE INTACT, I HAD IT CHECKED,BY A MECHANIC. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT IT'S FAILURE WAS BEING CAUSED BY A FAULTY CLOCKSPRING WHICH IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON JEEP WRANGLERS. AND AFTER RESEARCHING THIS ON THE INTERNET, I FOUND THIS TO BE CORRECT. HOWEVER I ONLY SEE WHERE THE RECALL IS LISTED ONLY FOR PREVIOUS YEARS. BUT IF YOU READ SOME OF THE FEEDBACK LEFT ON THE JEEP WEBSITES THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM. I AM GOING TO HAVE THE PART REPLACED, BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THE 2000 WRANGLER IS INCLUDED IN A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM ? THANKS.....G.D.GRAY. *JB

CONSUMER PURCHASED A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER AND WAS INFORMED THAT BRAKES WERE NEW AND IN GOOD CONDITION. UPON PUTTING VEHICLE IN PARK PARKING BRAKE DID NOT HOLD AND HAD TO BE ADJUSTED. *TS THE CONSUMER STATED HE WAS INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO APPLY THE BRAKES, BUT THE VEHICLE DIDN'T STOP. THE FRONT PINION SEAL WAS REPLACED AND THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BECAUSE IT WAS LEAKING. *JB

FAILS TO START AND STALLS ABRUPTLY WHEN IN GEAR, AT ANY SPEED AND IN ANY GEAR. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON. FIRST DEALER REPLACED LEAK DETECTION PUMP. PROBLEM PERSISTED AND DEALER STATED THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. SECOND DEALER STATED THERE WAS A DIRTY THROTTLE BODY. PUT CONDITIONER IN GAS TANK. PROBLEM HAS CONTINUED TO PERSIST WITH NO SOLUTION. *NM

WATER LEAKING BENEATH DASH ONTO PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR. DEALER STATED THAT DEBRIS ENTERED THROUGH HOOD VENT AND ACCUMULATED CAUSING DRAINS TO PLUG UP. HENCE RAIN WATER WILL OVERFLOW INTO INTERIOR COMPARTMENT. DEALER CLEARED DRAINS WITH AIR HOSE. COVER HOOD VENT WITH MAGNETIC SHEET (MADE FOR HOUSEHOLD HEATING VENTS) WHEN VEHICLE IS NOT IN USE. *NM

MY WIFE WAS HIT IN THE RIGHT FRONT OF HER 2000 JEEP WRANGLER (SAHARA ED.) ON 12 MAR 2005. I CONTACTED DAMILER CHRYSLER, AND RATHER THAN REPLY TO ME, THEY TURNED IT OVER TO ONE OF THE LAW FIRMS WHICH HAS NOT SATISFACTORILY HANDLING THE ISSUE, NOR HAVE THEY CONTACTED ME SINCE SEPTEMBER. MY WIFE SUFFERED A BROKEN NECK, 4-BROKEN RIBS, A PUNCTURED LEFT LUNG, A 2" LACERATION ON HER HEAD REQUIRING 13 STAPLES AND MANY CUTS AND BRUISES BECAUSE THE AIR BAG DID NOT DEPLOY, CAUSING HER UPPER BODY TO GO THROUGH THE WINDOW. OUR HOSPITAL AND AIR FLIGHT COST TOTALED MORE THAN $60K. MUCH OF IT PAID BY MY HEALTH INSURANCES. *JB

LOW SPEED REAR RIGHT IMPACT TO VEHICLE CAUSED IT TO FALL ON ITS SIDE AND IMMEDIATELY BURST INTO FLAMES RENDERING TOTAL DESTRUCTION. ANOTHER OWNER'S AUTO WAS 'T BONED' AND IT ALSO BURST INTO FLAMES. *NM ..UPDATED 08-09-12 *BF UPDATED 08/09/2012 *JS

ALL FOUR SEAT BELT RELEASE MECHANISMS GET STUCK. I HAVE HAD TO ASSIST PASSENGERS WITH RELEASING THE SEAT BELT AFTER THEY ATTEMPTED IT THEMSELVES. TO RELEASE THE BELTS, THERE MUST BE SUFFICIENT SLACK IN THE BELT TO ALLOW AN ANGLE BETWEEN THE TONGUE AND RECEPTACLE OPPOSITE THE ANGLE NATURALLY ACHIEVED WHEN IN USE. THIS PROBLEM WAS VERY NOTICEABLE BUT NOT AS BAD WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS NEW. NO ONE HAS BEEN INJURED IN MY VEHICLE, BUT WHEN PASSENGERS NEED ASSISTANCE REMOVING A SAFETY BELT, THAT IS A POTENTIAL SAFETY ISSUE. *NM

CONSUMER EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS WITH THE CLOCKSPRING IN HIS 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT.*MR THE CONSUMER STATED THE HORN DOES NOT WORK AND THE AIR BAG LIGHT IS ON. *JB

DT: YESTERDAY THE AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON I AND THE HORN STOPPED WORKING. I WAS NOT UNDER RECALL, DEALER GOING TO CHARGE CONSUMER FOR REPAIRS. LAST WEEK THE SAME THING HAPPENED WITH DODGE CARAVAN. THEY WERE BOTH CHRYSLER PRODUCTS ,AND THE DODGE HAD A RECALL. HOWEVER THE JEEP DID NOT. *AK

DT: LAST YEAR THE PROBLEM WAS ERRATIC, BUT THIS YEAR I CAN NOT OPEN THE PASSENGER'S ELECTRIC WINDOWS WITH THE PASSENGER'S CONTROLS ONLY WITH THE DRIVER'S CONTROLS. *TT *NM

ON 12 MARCH 2005, MY WIFE WAS HIT HEAD-ON WHILE SITTING IN A TURN LANE IN HER 2000 JEEP WRANGLER SAHARA EDITION. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY, CONSEQUENTLY, MY WIFE WENT THROUGH THE DRIVER DOOR WINDOW, SUFFERING SEVERE CUTS AND BRUISES, A BROKEN NECK, FOUR BROKEN RIBS AND A COLLASPED LEFT LUNG. SINCE THEN I HAVE BEEN IN CONTACT WITH DAIMLER-CHRYSLER BUT CANNOT GET THEM TO COMMIT TO ANY WRONG, ALTHOUGH THEY KEEP TELLING ME THEY HAVE THEIR INSPECTORS LOOKING AT IT.INITIALLY, I SENT THEM PHOTOS OF THE VEHICLE AND LAST WEEK THOSE THEY SENT ME WERE IDENTICAL AS THOSE I SENT THEM WHICH ALL SHOW THE IMPACT, YET, THEY HAVE NOT TOLD ME WHAT CAUSED THE AIR BAGS NOT TO DEPLOY. ALL THOSE INJURIES SUFFERED WERE A DIRECT RESULT OF NON-DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIR BAGS. THE OTHER CARS AIR BAGS DID DEPLOY AND HE SUFFERED NO INJURIES WHATSOEVER. I ASK OF YOU TO PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INFORMATION AS A RESULT OF THIS ACCIDENT. CERTAINLY, DAIMLER-CHRYSLER SHOULD COOPERATE BUT SEEM NOT TO WANT TO BECAUSE OF THE COST OF MY WIFE'S HOSPITALIZATION AND BEING AIR-LIFTED TO THE VANDERBILT TRAUMA CENTER. THANK YOU FOR ANYTHING YOU CAN PROVIDE ME.

DT: CONTACT STATES THE DRIVER SIDE SEAT BELT WORKS PART OF THE TIME, OTHER TIMES IT WON?T PULLED OUT FAR ENOUGH TO LATCH. THE SERVICE DEALER STATED THE ENTIRE UNIT OF THE SEAT BELT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *AK SEAT BELT WILL NOT RETRACT, VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO SEVERAL DIFFERENT SHOPS TO BE FIXED AND FOUND OUT THAT SEAT BELTS HAD BEEN REDISGNED BUT NOT RECALLED.CONSUMER BELIEVES THAT SINCE THERE WAS A REDESIGN IN THE SEAT BELTS THEN IT MUST HAVE BEEN A SAFETY PROBLEM

DT: JEEP CHEROKEE, HAD A HEAD-ON COLLISION ALMOST DEAD-CENTER, AND A POLICE CAR HITVEHICLE'S RIGHT SIDE, THEN, IT HIT THE RIGHT SIDE. UPON IMPACT, NEITHER AIR BAG DEPLOYED, DRIVER'S SEAT BELT CAME UNDONE, AND THE BUMPER, GRILL, AND FOG LIGHTS FELL OFF. CONSUMER SUSTAINED M NOSE, EARDRUM, KNEE, EYESIGHT AND BACK INJURIES . TALKED TO THE MANUFACTURER, AND THEY WILL NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE AIR BAGS NOT DEPLOYING, THERE WAS A RECALL FOR AIR BAGS. *AK

DT: CONSUMER WAS WORKING ON THE VEHICLE, AND SPRAYED THE CARBURETOR WHEN THE CAR LUNGED FORWARD PINNING CONSUMER BETWEEN A WIRED SHELF AND FREEZER WHICH STOPPED THE JEEP BUT WAS DESTROYED. *TT *EH

THE CONSUMER BELIEVED THE TRANSMISSION WAS SLIPPING. WHEN DRIVING ONE OR TWO MILES THERE WAS NO POWER. THE FIRST START, WHEN IT IS PUT IN REVERSE, THERE IS A BIG SOUND. THIS HAPPENS EARLY IN THE MORNING OR WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD. ONLY HAS 29,000 MILES ON THE CAR.

VEHICLE PURCHASED ON 3/26/00. CURRENTLY MILEAGE UNDER 30,000 MILES. BEEN EXPERIENCING FAILURE WITH ROTOR SINCE THE FIRST YEAR OF PURCHASE OF THE NEW VEHICLE WHICH VIBRATED VIOLENTLY WHEN STEPPING ON BRAKES OVER 20 MILES PER HOUR. BELOW ARE THE DATES REQUIRING SERVICE AND/OR REPLACEMENT OF ROTOR. 2/29/2000, 5/31/2001, 0/24/2001, 06/06/2002, 05/07/2003, 1/24/2003, 5/17/2004 04/04/2005. ACCORDING TO THE NHSTA DATA BASE, THERE ARE 217 COMPLAINTS ON THE ROTOR POSSIBLE DEFECT ON THIS MODEL. ITS NOT REASONABLE FOR A CONSUMER PURCHASING A NEW VEHICLE TO EXPECT REPLACEMENT OF ROTORS ONE AND SOMETIMES TWICE A YEAR. HAVE CONTACTED REGIONAL DIVISION OF CHRYSLER IN THE PAST YEARS, AND HAVE GOTTEN SERVICED. THIS YEAR, WITH THE NEW DIVISION MANAGER THOMAS SMITH, HE STATES THAT HE HAS NOT BEEN AWARE OF THE ANY PAST COMPLAINTS OF THE ROTOR AND THAT IT IS A USER ERROR. IN ADDITION, HE REFUSES TO PROVIDE AN E-MAIL OR MAILING ADDRESS TO DOCUMENT THE INCIDENT. TREMENDOUSLY CONCERNED FOR THE SAFETY OF THE VEHICLE. REQUESTING FOR AN INVESTIGATION. I WILL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO FAX OR MAIL PAST SERVICE RECORDS. LOOK FORWARD TO YOUR GUIDANCE. *AK

I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM 3 TIMES WITH MY VEHICLE NOW. THE VEHICLE WAS HAVING HEATER PROBLEMS ON HIGHEST AND SECOND HIGHEST SPEEDS. TOOK THE JEEP TO THE DEALERSHIP AND PAID DEDUCTABLE ON THE SERVICE CONTRACT IN OCTOBER 2002. DEALER REPLACED THE UNDER DASH HARNESS, BLOWER MOTOR AND THE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR. I CONTINUED TO HAVE PROBLEMS AND TOOK IT TO MY PERSONAL MECHANIC THAT DISCOVERED THAT THE HEATER CONTROL MODULE HAD FAILLED AS WELL. HE REPLACED THE HEATER CONTROL MODULE AND JEEP WORKED FINE FOR 1 YEAR. THE HEATER BEGAN TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS AGAIN AND MY PERSONAL MECHANIC REPLACED THE BLOWER MOTOR, BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR AND THE HEATER CONTROL UNIT AS WELL AS REPLACING A BURNT WIRE. THE HEATER AGAIN LASTED JUST OVER A YEAR BEFORE ACTUALLY CATCHING FIRE UNDER THE DASH. THE ENTIRE UNDER DASH HARNESS, BLOWER MOTOR, BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR AND HEATER CONTROL UNIT WERE AGAIN REPLACED. NO ADDITIONAL PROBLEMS WITHIN THE PAST WEEK AFTER RECEIVING THE JEEP FROM THE SHOP.*AK

THIS IS MY 5TH JEEP, 1ST GRAND CHEROKEE. I RESEARCHED THIS VEHICLE FOR 2 MONTHS BEFORE BUYING. AFTER PURCHASING I NOTICED THE WHINE COMING FROM THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL. I TOOK IT TO AN OIL AND LUBE STORE WHERE THEY EXPLAINED I WAS LUCKY TO HAVE THE SELECT TRAC 4X4 SYSTEM AS THE DIFFERENTIAL OIL IS EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE FOR THE QUADRA DRIVE SYSTEM. AFTER REPLACING THE LUBE IN THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL THE WHINE WENT AWAY. *NM

DRIVER WAS GOING AT APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH AND APPROACHED A SLIGHT CURVE AND THE ENTIRE LEFT REAR WHEEL SEPARATED FROM THE AXLE CAUSING THE DRIVER TO LOSE CONTROL CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO FLIP DOWN AND AGAIN IT FLIPPED BACK UP, TOTALING THE VEHICLE. PROVIDE FURTHER DETAILS. *NM

THE FAN BLOWER MALFUNCTIONED ,WHICH RESULTED IN THE HEATER/DEFROSTER SYSTEM ONLY OPERATING IN THE HIGH SETTING. CONSUMER SPOKE TO DEALERSHIP BY PHONE, WHO INDICATED THAT HE HAD SEEN A LOT OF THIS FAILURE, BUT THERE WAS NO RECALL. URGED CONSUMER TO CONTACT THE MANUFACTURER. HOWEVER, MANUFACTURER PROVIDED NO ASSISTANCE. *AK

I CURRENTLY OWN A JEEP WRANGLER, WHICH WAS PURCHASED USED, THAT IS EQUIPPED WITH FIRESTONE WILDERNESS AT TIRES, DOT VD66 W2, 30 X 9.50 R15 LT. I AM UNSURE OF THE DOT CODE AS IT IS SLIGHTLY WORN BUT THE VD IS CERTAIN. WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, WE ENCOUNTERED A FLAT. IT APPEARS THAT THE TREAD SEPARATED FROM THE SIDEWALLS AS THE SIDEWALLS ARE STILL PRESESNT.*AK

THE PASSENGER SIDE RETRACTOR FAILED WHEN APPLIED. CONSUMER PLACED THE SEAT BELT INSIDE THE RETRACTOR AND IT FAILED TO STAY SECURE. *AK

WHILE DRIVING AT LOW SPEED VEHICLE HIT A POT HOLE. STEERING WHEEL JERKED BACK AND FORTH VIOLENTLY THEN AFTER SLOWING DOWN THE CONSUMERWAS UNABLE TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE. DEALERSHIP WAS NOT NOTIFIED. *AK *TC

WATER ENTERED THE STEERING COLUMN THROUGH THE HAZARD SWITCH (LEAK CAUSED BY FACTORY TOP DESIGN) AND SHORTED THE MULTI FUNCTION SWITCH USED TO CONTROL BRAKE LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, AND HEADLIGHTS. THE SHORT CAUSED A SMALL FIRE AND MELTDOWN OF THE SWITCH. THE SWITCH HAD TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS OCCURRED. *JB

SEVERE SHAKING AT 55 MPH. VEHICLE AND STEERING WHEEL VIBRATED AND SHOOK VIOLENTLY.*AK

WHILE COMING TO A STOP, THE STABILIZER BAR FAILED. THIS CAUSED THE STEERING WHEEL TO VIBRATE HEAVILY. THE DEALERSHIP WOULD BE NOTIFIED. *AK (MODEL/SAHARA) *SC *JB

SEAT BELT ON DRIVERS SIDE DOES NOT RETRACT DUE TO DETIORATION OF PLASTIC SLEAVE IN RETRACTION HOLDER. *JB

WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED, THE CONSUMER NOTICED THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE MAKING A NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS SERVICED AND THE TECHNICIAN NOTICED THE TRANSFER CASE-O-RING NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. *JB THE O-RING WAS SPLIT AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. WITHIN A WEEK THE VEHICLE STARTED TO MAKE A NOISE AGAIN BUT IT WAS WORSE. THE O-RING WENT OUT AND WAS LOSING FLUID IN THE TRANSFER CASE WHICH CAUSED THE NEED TO BE REBUILT DUE TO ALL THE DAMAGE FROM THE FAULTY PARTS. *SC *JB

WHEN DRIVING ON A WET OR A SANDY ROAD SURFACE, THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STOPPED WITHOUT PLACING THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL. THIS OCCURRED BECAUSE THE REAR WHEELS KEPT TURNING. THE VEHICLE WAS SERVICED 3 TIMES BY DIFFERENT MECHANICS, AND ALL OF THE BRAKE COMPONENTS WERE REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE STILL RECURRED. *AK THE PROBLEM WAS ALSO REALLY BAD ON SNOW OR ICE. THE CONSUMER SUGGESTED THAT THE DEALER TRY OTHER WRANGLER'S IN WHICH THEY FOUND THAT THE 1998 MODELS WITH REAR WHEELS, LOCKED ON SLIPPERY CONDITIONS AND FOUND THAT THE 2004 WRANGLER'S WITH NO REAR, LOCKED UP. THE CONSUMER ALSO FOUND THAT HIS VEHICLE WITH THE REAR ON A JACK WOULD NOT STOP THE REAR WHEELS FROM SPINNING WITH THE CONSUMER'S FOOT ON THE BRAKE(S) WITH THE VEHICLE IN DRIVE. *SC *JB

MY DRIVERS SEAT BELT WILL POP OPEN WHEN I STOP OR TURN OR LEAN FORWARD.

WHILE DRIVING AT 45 MPH CONSUMER LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE, CAUSING IT TO REAR-END ANOTHER VEHICLE. UPON IMPACT, BOTH FRONTAL AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. DRIVER SUSTAINED INJURIES. *AK

FAN CONTROL SWITCH WAS MELTING IN BACK AT ONE OF THE CONTACTS. THE FAN WOULD RUN ONLY AT THE HIGH SPEED SETTING AND IF IT DID RUN AT ANOTHER SETTING IT WOULD START TO SMELL LIKE SOMETHING WAS BURNING.*AK

REAR BRAKES WEAK, TOOK TO BRAKE SHOP, FOUND RIGHT REAR WHEEL CYLINDER FAILED SOAKING SHOES WITH BRAKE FLUID AND LEFT SIDE SEEPING FLUID. *AK

I PURCHASE THIS 2000 JEEP WRANGLER FROM A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP AND PAID THE COVERAGE WARRANTY DURING THE TIME OF PURCHASE. WHEN I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE I NOTICED THERE WAS A WEILDING UNDERNEATH THE AXLE AND TOLD THE SALESMAN ABOUT IT AND HE SAID NOT TO WORRY ABOUT IT, IT WON'T CAUSE ANY DAMAGE. FOUR MONTHS LATER THE AXLE BROKE ON A FREEWAY FOR NO REASON. WE TOLD THE JEEP DEALERSHIP TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THEY DIDN'T EVEN HELP US WITH THE PROBLEM AND QUOTING US 1,000 DOLLARS TO GET IT FIXED FROM A JEEP WRANGLER DEARLERSHIP. THIS PROBLEM WAS ALREADY THERE WHEN WE PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE. THEY SHOULD HAVE FIXED IT BEFORE SELLING IT TO US. THE WARRENTY WE PURCHASED DID NOT COVER THE DAMAGE BECAUSE IT WASN'T UNDER WARRENTY. SO,THEY CAN NOT FIX THE PROBLEM AND NEED TO TOW IT TO A PROFESSIONAL BODY LIFTING SHOP. WE TOWED IT THERE AND IT COST US 500.00 TO FIX THE DAMAGE THAT WAS ALREADY THERE IN THE BEGINNING WHEN WE PURCHASED THE VEHICLE.

JEEP WRANGLER NV3550 MANUAL FIVE SPEED TRANSMISSION NOISE. AT 20,000 MILES THE TRANSMISSION MADE IRREGULAR NOISES THAT CHRYSLER CLAIMS ARE NORMAL. NOW, JUST AS THE WARRANTY IS RUNNING OUT THEY CLAIM THESE SAME NOISES ARE A FAILING TRANSMISSION THAT NEEDS REPAIR AT THE COST OF $2000. *JB

2000 WRANGLER SPORT, 4.0 LITER, 5-SPEED TRANSMISSION - LOUD TRANSMISSION NOISES AT IDLE WITH CLUTCH OUT. TOOK IT BACK TO DEALER (EARNHARDT'S JEEP IN TEMPE) TWICE WHEN VEHICLE STILL UNDER WARRANTY. DEALER REPLACED CLUTCH ONCE, WHICH RESOLVED PROBLEM WITH GEAR STICKING BUT NOT NOISE PROBLEM. DEALER SAID NOISE PROBLEM COMMON TO THAT YEAR AND NO FIX AS YET, BUT SAID I WOULD BE ELIGIBLE FOR FIX WHEN FACTORY DEVELOPED ONE. WENT TO TATE'S IN HOLBROOK YESTERDAY. THEY SHOWED ME ON COMPUTER THAT THERE IS NOW A FACTORY IDENTIFIED FIX INVOLVING REPLACING A SHAFT AND BUSHING OR BEARING IN THE TRANSFER CASE, BUT SAID THEY WON'T FIX MINE SINCE OUT OF WARRANTY. WROTE A LETTER TO EARNHARDT'S BUT HAVEN'T HEARD ANYTHING YET. FIX IS 21-001-01 DATED FEBRUARY, 2001. *LA

EACH TIME THE CAR WAS PUT INTO REVERSE WHEN BACKING OUT OF GARAGE OR PARKING LOT, THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WOULD ABRUPTLY JUMP INTO REVERSE GEAR WITH A VERY LOUD AND ABRUPT MOTION. IF YOU DID NOT HAVE YOUR FOOT ON BRAKE WHEN YOU PUT IT IN GEAR, CAR WOULD LEAP BACKWARDS. DEALER FOUND A LEAKING VALVE BASE GASKET IN THE TRANSMISSION, WHICH HE REPLACED. CAR HAS BEEN FINE SINCE, WITH NO FURTHER PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION. *NLM

PLEASE RECALL THE GEN 3 TYPE SEATBELT! THIS IS A PROACTIVE COMPLAINT TO PREVENT AN INCIDENT, THUS YOU WILL NOT FIND A DATE BELOW.

ALL FOUR TIRE TREADS WORN OUT. THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED A MONTH AGO AND THE DEALER TOLD THE CONSUMER THE TIRES WERE NEW. BRIDGESTONE DUELER AT TIRES. PLEASE PROVIDE DETAILS. *PH

VEHICLE VIBRATES AND SWAYS VIOLENTLY WHEN ENCOUNTERING ROAD SURFACE BUMPS OR IRREGULARITES.*AK

PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FILLS WITH WATER (OVER ONE INCH!) IN HEAVY RAINS AT FREEWAY SPEEDS. I DETERMINED (MECHANICAL ENGINEER) THAT WHEEL SPRAY FROM REAR TIRE PENETRATED POORLY SEALED BODY SEAMS ON PASSENGER SIDE. TOOK DEALER FOUR TIMES TO FIX EVEN THOUGH I IDENTIFIED THE PROBLEM. I SHOWED APPROXIMATE AREA OF LEAKING AT FOOT LEVEL ON RIGHT LOWER BODY AND THEY REPLACED THE WINDOW! NEXT TIME THEY SEALED THE FIREWALL AND FINALLY TWO SEALANT PATCHES WERE MADE IN THE AREA OF ACTUAL LEAKAGE. TOTAL OF FOUR TRIPS TO HAVE FIXED. STILL SLIGHTLY LEAKS IN THE HEAVIEST RAINS AT FREEWAY SPEEDS.*AK

THE SEATBELT STRAP EXSTENSION IS VERY LONG WHILE CLOSING THE DOOR THE STRAP WILL GET CAUGHT UP INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. *AK

PERSISTENT LEAK PROBLEMS SINCE JEEP WAS 6 MONTHS OLD. RETURN TO DEALER OVER 5 TIMES BEFORE NOTICEABLE LEAKS STOPPED (BEHIND DASH BOARD, FLOOR AT DRIVERS AND A PASSENGER SIDE) FIX UNDER ORIGINALLY WARRANTY. 4 NEW LEAKS AND RETURN OF TWO OLD LEAKS - NOT COVERED BY EXTENDED WARRANTY NOW DEALER WANTS $650 TO FIX. ADDITIONALLY HAVE NUMEROUS TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AND PAINT RUSTING PROBLEMS SINCE A MONTH AFTER I PURCHASE THE VEHICLE.*AK

WHILE DRIVING AND WITHOUT WARNING TIRES WERE CRACKING. SIZE#30.9.5R15LT, AND DOT#,NAME OF THE TIRE NOT SPECIFIED. DEALER NOTIFIED. *AK

WHILE DRIVING, FLAMES EMITTED FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE. *JB

THE FIBER GLASS SPLIT ON THE VEHICLE SPLIT. *JB

CONSUMER COMPLAINE DHAD TO WAIT A LONG TIME TO HAVE A DEBRIS SHIELD INSTALLED ON MANIFOLD. *AK

THE DRIVER ATTEMPTED TO BRAKE BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL VIBRATED AND THE BRAKES DID NOT RESPOND. *NLM *NLM

THE CONSUMER REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE, AND THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY.*JB

ON FEBURARY 1, 2003, MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING A 2000 JEEP WRANGLER AT ABOUT 35 MPH ON A SLIGHT UP-GRADE. SHE LEFT ABOUT 20' OF STRAIGHT SKID PRIOR TO A REAR-END COLLISION. SLIGHT DEFORMATION TO THE BUMPER, A SMALL DENT AND BROKEN TURN SIGNAL LENS ON RIGHT FENDER. SHE WAS WEARING THE SEAT BELT AND SHOULDER STRAP, YET SUSTAINED A BROKEN NOSE AND BROKEN CHEEK BONE FROM HITTING THE STEERING WHEEL. NO AIRBAGS DEPLOYED. THE SHOULDER STRAP DID NOT PREVENT FORWARD MOTION. WHERE CAN I GET THIS VEHICLE EXAMINED AND WHAT INFORMATION DO YOU HAVE REGARDING THESE SPECIFIC DEVICES? THANK YOU, VERY MUCH. *JB

BEARING IN THE FRONT END "SLIPPED". THIS COMPLETELY DESTROYED THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL, DAMAGED THE AXLES, TIE RODS, AND SHOCKS. BASICLY DESTROYED THE FRONT END. *JB

I FEEL COMPELLED TO CONTRIBUTE, THIS 2000 IS MY 3RD WRANGLER AND I MUST SAY MOST OF THESE COMPLAINTS SOUND LIKE TRUMPED UP BUNK. ESPECIALLY ABOUT SHIFTING FROM 1ST INTO 2ND AND A GRINDING CLUTCH ON AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION?? THE ONLY PROBLEM I'LL GRANT IS THE WATER IN THE PASSENGER FLOORBOARD AND THAT HAPPENED ON MY '91 AS WELL. SO WHAT, IT'S A JEEP FER PETE'S SAKE. AND IF YOU'VE ALMOST HAD AN ACCIDENT WHEN THE GEARSHIFT POPS OUT IN 1ST... STOP PULLING OUT IN FRONT OF ONCOMING TRAFFIC. PROBLEM SOLVED. MY GUT FEELING IS THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO DON'T KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY DRIVE A STCIK SHIFT AND THEY'RE DRIVING A JEEP LIKE A SPORTS CAR. I HATE TO RAG ON OTHER JEEP DRIVERS BUT I'VE SEEN THEM DO IT. STOP WHINING PLEASE.

2000 JEEP WRANGLER,,,, 17,215 MILES.....COMPLETE AUTO TRANSMISSON BREAKDOWN...NEEDED A WHOLE NEW TRANSMISSION

ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS WHILE CONNECTING THE SEATBELT THE BUCKLE GOES INTO THE RECIEVER BUT DOES NOT GO IN PROPERLY. IT GOES IN AND FEELS LIKE IT CONNECTED BUT DOESN'T LATCH. DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE BELT WILL RELEASE.

I GET A ROARING SOUND FROM THE TRANSMISSION WHEN THE CLUTCH IS NOT DEPRESSED, AND IN NEUTRAL, BUT GOES AWAY WHEN THE CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED. IF YOU TURN THE IGNITION OFF WITH THE CLUTCH NOT DEPRESSED THE ENGINE RATTLES AND SHAKES. IT'S ALSO HARD TO CHANGE GEARS AFTER THE JEEP HAS BEEN DRIVEN FOR 20 TO 30 MINUTES, AND IT HAS POPPED OUT OF GEAR SEVERAL TIMES. THE FIRST TIME IT POPPED OUT OF GEAR I WAS MERGING IN TRAFFIC ON THE HIGHWAY, AND CAUSED A TRUCK BEHIND ME TO RUN OFF THE ROAD TO AVOID HITTING ME. NOBODY WAS HURT, BUT THEY VERY WELL COULD HAVE BEEN. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO COKER JEEP AND CHRYSLER IN TEXARKANA, TEXAS, AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY COULDN'T FIND ANY THING WRONG, SO I MADE THEM DRIVE ME AROUND, AND THEY SAW WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT. THEY WERE GOING TO ORDER, AND CHANGE THE THROW OUT BEARING, BUT I DROVE ANOTHER 2000 JEEP ON THERE LOT AND IT DID THE EXACT SAME THING, SO THEY JUST WROTE IT OFF AS NORMAL, AND HAVE REFUSED TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I KNOW I AM ONLY 1 PERSON, BUT IT SEEMS TO ME THAT IT WOULD BE IN THE BEST INTEREST OF CHRYSLER TO ADRESS THIS PROBLEM INSTEAD OF IGNORING IT. EVENTUALLY SOMEBODY IS GOING TO DIE AS A RESULT, AND CHRYSLER WILL BE IN THE SAME POSITION AS FORD FOUND THESELVES IN, BUT CHRYSLER WON'T HAVE A TIRE COMPANY TO BLAME IT ON. I ALSO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOFBOARD TAKING ON WATER. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF IT'S RAINING OR NOT, AFTER AN HOUR OR SO OF DRIVING WITH THE A/C RUNNING THE FLOOR GETS SOAKING WET. THE FLOORBOARD AROUND THE DRAIN HOLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE IS STARTING TO SHOW SIGNS OF RUST. I HAVE READ THE COMPLAINTS ON YOUR WEBSITE, AND IT SEEMS TO ME THAT THERE ARE ENOUGH COMPLAINTS ABOUT THESE PROBLEMS THAT CHRYSLER WOULD DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. MY JEEP IS 3 YEARS OLD THIS MONTH, AND SUBSEQUENT MY FACTORY WARRANTY HAS RUN OUT. I WOULD LIKE SOME ANSWERS.*AK

TRANSMISSION IS AND WAS STILL VERY DIFFICULT TO SHIFT FROM SECOND (2ND) GEAR AFTER BEING DRIVEN FOR MORE THAN 20 MINUTES. IT TAKES QUITE A LOT OF FORCE AND THEREFORE CREATES A SAFETY HAZARD FOR ME. IT ALSO (THE NEW TRANSMISSION AND THE OLD TRANSMISSION) MAKES NOISE (RATHER LOUD) WHEN THE CLUTCH IS NOT PRESSED IN. *AK

WHILE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND WITHOUT WARNING CONSUMER SAW SMOKE UNDER HOOD. LIFTED HOOD AND SAW A FIRE ON TOP OF ENGINE. DEALER WAS NOTIFIED .MECHANIC KEPT VEHICLE FOR ABOUT 5 DAYS; HOWEVER, WAS UNABLE TO REPAIR VEHICLE.*AK

WHILE TRAVELING ON HIGHWAY AND WHEN APPLYING BRAKES THERE IS VIBRATION THROUGHOUT VEHICLE.*AK

THERE IS A RATTLING SOUND FROM TRANSMISSION AT ALL TIMES. DEALER REPLACED TRANSFER CASE AT 7543 MILES. AN OIL SEAL WAS LEAKING AND REPLACED AS WELL. NEITHER REMEDIED THE PROBLEM.*AK DEALER INFORMED CONSUMER THAT JEEPS WERE NOISY AND THAT THE NOISE WAS NORMAL. CONSUMER TOOK VEHICLE TO ANOTHER JEEP DEALER AT 9580 MILES WHERE THEY PUT IN A NEW TRANSMISSION AND REPAIRED THE DRIVERS DOOR AND TAIL GATE FOR NOT CLOSING PROPERLY. *JG

WHILE VEHICLE WAS PARKED AND WITHOUT WARNING IT CAUGHT ON FIRE. THIS WAS THE SECOND JEEP, WRANGLER THAT HAD CAUGHT ON FIRE. VEHICLE WAS TOTALED. *AK

AIR BAG SENSOR LIGHT REMAINS ON WHILE DRIVING, DEALER CONTACTED. *AK *TT

WHEN DRIVING STEERING WHEEL WILL START TO SHAKE. STEERING WHEEL WILL SHAKE EVEN MORE WHEN DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. ALSO, WHEN SLOWING DOWN VEHICLE WILL PULL TO THE LEFT. CONTACTED DEALER, AND THE DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO DO ANYTHING. *AK

VEHICLE WAS CUTTING OFF WHILE IN 1ST GEAR WITH PARKING BRAKE ON. HALF AN HOUR LATER, CONSUMER HEARD A DOOR BANG, VEHICLE HAD HIT HOUSE, AND CAUGHT ON FIRE. CONSUMER FELT VEHICLE STARTED ON ITS OWN. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY FURTHER INFORMATION. *AK

NO BACK BRAKES

THE VEHICLE CAUGHT ON FIRE WHILE PARKED. CLAIM NUMBER 43-R799-130. *YH

THE CONSUMER SMELLED LED BURNING/ PLASTIC PRIOR TO STOPPIN, THE FIRE ORIGINATED IN THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX. CLAIM NUMBER 17-9135-135. *YH

INSURED STATES THAT ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE. CLAIM NUMBER 35-W644-773. *YH

INSURED STATES THAT THE ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE WHILE PARKED. CLAIM NUMBER 52-2466-618. *YH

THE CONSUMER SMELLED LED BURNING/ PLASTIC PRIOR TO STOPPIN, THE FIRE ORIGINATED IN THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX. CLAIM NUMBER 17-9135-135. *YH

THE VEHICLE CAUGHT ON FIRE WHILE PARKED. CLAIM NUMBER 43-R799-130. *YH

INSURED STATES THAT ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE. CLAIM NUMBER 35-W644-773. *YH

INSURED STATES THAT THE ENGINE CAUGHT ON FIRE WHILE PARKED. CLAIM NUMBER 52-2466-618. *YH

I BOUGHT THE JEEP NEW AND HAVE HAD TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS SINCE. SHIFTING IS VERY TIGHT WITH A GRINDING NOISE. THERE IS A RATTLING NOISE WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN NEUTRAL. I LIKE ALL THE OTHER COMPLAINTS I HAVE READ AND REALLY FRUSTRATED AT THE TIME TAKEN OFF OF WORK TO FIX THE PROBLEM WITH NO ANSWERS OR CURES FOR THE PROBLEM AFTER 2 YEARS. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER JEEP PRODUCT

SHOULDER HARNESS IN DRIVER SEAT TWIST WHEN BEING RELEASED. THIS CAUSES HARNESS TO BE SLAMMED IN DOOR LOCK WHEN EXITING JEEP. THE REMAING 3 HARNESS ARE OF A DIFFERENT MANUFACURE THEN THE DRIVER SEAT. I HAVE LOST 24 HOURS EACH TIME I BRING THE JEEP FOR SERVICE. THE DEALER/MANUFACTURE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE ABLE TO REPAIR THIS PROBLEM. THE DEALER/MANUFATURE DOES NOT SEEM TO FEEL THE PROBLEM IS IMPORTANT OR SERIOUS. I UNDERSTAND THAT ONLY ABT 70% OF AMERICANS ARE USING SEAT BELTS AND HARNESS'S. SEEMS IMPORTANT ENOUGH TO ME.

TRANSMISSION IS HARD TO SHIFT 1ST TO 2ND GEAR, SOMETIMES IT DOES NOT ENGAGE, ALSO LOUD NOISE COMING OUT FROM THE TRANSMISSION WHEN THE CLUTCH IS RELEASED.*AK

PASSENGER'S AIRBAG DIDN'T GO OFF. DEALERSHIP IS AWARE OPF PROBLEM.*AK

I HAVE DOCUMENTED FOUR TRIPS TO THE DEALER TO FIX WATER LEAKING INTO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. THERE ARE ACTUALLY TWO OTHER TIMES THAT I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR THE SAME PROBLEM, BUT, SINCE IT WAS A RETURN TRIP, THEY DID NOT PROVIDE DOCUMENTATION FROM THE "DEALER AGENT" THAT PERFORMED THE WORK. ON MY FOURTH & FIFTH TRIP, I DEMANDED WRITE-UPS. I HAVE SPOKEN WITH A CHRYSLER FACTORY REP WHO REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING, SINCE ON THE FIFTH TRIP, THE "DEALER AGENT" COULD NOT FIND THE PROBLEM. THE FACTORY REP DID SUBSEQUENTLY OFFER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY, BUT HAS NOT RETURNED MY CALLS. I HAVE FOUND THE WATER LEAK ON MY OWN AND ON MY SIXTH VISIT TO THE DEALER, I DEMANDED THAT THE BODY SHOP MANAGER VERIFY THE LEAKS. HE DID, AND I RECEIVED A "WORK ORDER" FROM HIM. I HAVE NOT TAKEN IT BACK A SIXTH TIME TO BE REPAIRED. I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE MAY BE ELECTRICAL OR OTHER PROBLEMS THAT MAY ARISE DUE TO THE LEAKAGE. ON THE OTHER HAND, IF I GET IT FIXED AGAIN AND IT LEAKS AGAIN, WILL THERE BE ANOTHER PROBLEM. WHILE I HAVE FOUND THE CONDITIONS WHERE IT LEAKS IN, I DO NOT KNOW WHERE OR HOW IT TRAVELS INSIDE THE VEHICLE AND THUS DO NOT KNOW WHAT DAMAGES MAY HAVE ALREADY OCCURRED, BUT HAVE NOT SURFACED. I HAVE DOCUMENTED 3-28-01 AS THE DATE OF FAILURE SINCE THE EARLIEST DOCUMENT THAT I HAVE DATED FROM THE DEALER IS 3-30-01. I BELIEVE THE ORIGINAL FAILURE WAS EARLIER. THE MILEAGE IS CLOSE FOR THAT DATE.*AK

FUEL LINE FAILED. GASOLINE WAS POURING FROM CAR. LUCKY TO HAVE AVOIDED EXPLOSION AND ESCAPED ALIVE. DEALER HAD THE NERVE TO TELL ME THE REPAIR WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.*AK

WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH APPLIED BRAKES, PEDAL WENT TO FLOOR, NO BRAKING ACTION. NO ACCIDENT. DEALER REPLACED BRAKE BOOSTER/ MASTER CYLINDER.*AK

NO SUMMARY LISTED FOR ABOV EVEHICLE. *AK

CONSUMER WAS PUMPING GAS INTO VEHICLE AND VEHICLE JUMPED OUT OF PARK INTO REVERSE. VEHICLE WENT DOWN AN INCLINE, AND HIT ANOTHER VEHICLE. *AK CONSUMER STATES THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES EVEN WITH THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ENGAGED. *SLC

TRANSMISSION MAKES LOUD NOISE WHEN IN NEUTRAL OR WHEN CLUTCH IS RELEASED, ALSO 1ST OR 2ND GEAR IS HARD, SOMETIME IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT WHICH NEARLY CAUSE ACCIDENTS. SOMETIMES IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT). *AK

BOUGHT THIS JEEP WITH 18,000 MILES AND VEHICLE HAS JUMPPED OUT OF 1ST GEAR WHEN SHIFTING AT LEAST TWICE DAILY. ALSO WHEN JEEP IS PARKED ON HILL AND PARKING BRAKE SET ALONG WITH TRANS. IN 1ST GEAR THE JEEP WILL SLOWLY INCH IT'S WAY DOWN THE HILL. BOTH DEFECTS HAVE COME CLOSE TO CAUSING INJURY. LOCAL DEALER NOTIFIED AND AFTER DUPLICATING PROBLEM THEY CLAIM THEY HAVE NO IDEA WHATS WRONG AND HAVE REFUSED TO FIX IT. JEEP HOME OFFICE NOTIFIED COMPANY UNCONCERNED!!!*AK

THE CONSUMER PARKED THE VEHICLE FOR 10 MINUTES AND SHE SAW SMOKE FROM UNDER THE HOOD, THE ESTIMATOR STATED IT APPEARED THAT THERE WAS GAS ON TOP OF THE INJECTORS WHICH CAUSED A FULE FIRE, BUT WAS VERY HARD TO TELL. CLAIM NUMBER 46-0457-574. *YH

THE CONSUMER PARKED THE VEHICLE FOR 10 MINUTES AND SHE SAW SMOKE FROM UNDER THE HOOD, THE ESTIMATOR STATED IT APPEARED THAT THERE WAS GAS ON TOP OF THE INJECTORS WHICH CAUSED A FULE FIRE, BUT WAS VERY HARD TO TELL. CLAIM NUMBER 46-0457-574. *YH

TRANSMISSION MAKES NOISE WHEN IN NUETRAL AND CLUTCH IS DIENGAGED/SHIFTING IS DIFFICULT. *AK

THE CONSUMER'S VEHICLE REAR BOLT FELL OFF OF THE REAR STABILIZER TWICE. FIRST, DUE TO MANUFACTURER DEFECT, AND SECOND DUE TO MECHANIC'S FAULT RESULTED IN LOSS OF CONTROL, WHICH WAS ALMOST FATAL. *YH

THE VEHICLE'S STARTER FAILED THREE TIMES. *YH

MIKE MAURICIO, SERVICE MANAGER STATES THAT LARGE AMOUNT OF "SURFACE RUST" AT 6000 MILES IS NORMAL. IF THIS IS SO, THEN ENTIRE UNDERCARRIAGE WOULD BE RUSTED OUT BY 30,000 MILES, VEHICLE WOULD EXPERIENCE STRUCTURAL FAILURE, FUEL SYSTEM WOULD LOSE INTEGRITY CREATING FIRE/EXPLOSION HAZZARD. RECOMMEND SAFETY RECALL OF ALL 2000 JEEP WRANGLERS. EMAIL FOR PICS.

CONSUMER WAS DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 TO 45 MPH WHEN A 1983 FORD, F150 BACKED OUT INTO ROADWAY IN FRONT OF CONSUMER'S VEHICLE. CONSUMER HAD NO OPPORTUNITY TO SLOW VEHICLE DOWN BEFORE IT IMPACTED ON OTHER VEHICLE. PASSENGER'S AIR BAG HAD AN ON/OFF SWITCH INSTALLED IN IT DUE TO A CHILD SEAT, AND IT WAS TURNED OFF DURING THIS INCIDENT. HOWEVER, DRIVER'S AIR BAG FAILED TO DEPLOY. INSURANCE COMPANY HAS EXAMINED VEHICLE, BUT HAS NOT PROVIDED ANY INFORMATION TO CONSUMER ABOUT CAUSE OF DEFECT. PLEASE PROVIDE ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION/ATTACHMENTS. *AK

THE WINDSHIELD WIPER BRAKET FAILED AND SCRATCHED THE VEHICLES PAINT. NLM

BRAKES WOULD NOT ENGAGE DURING SLIPPERY CONDITIONS, CONSUMER FEELS THERE IS A MECHANICAL PROBLEM WHICH HAS NOT YET BEEN RESOLVED. *SLC

CONSUMER STATES VEHICLE HAS A REAR END PROBLEM THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED TO THE DEALER, HOWEVER NO REMEDY HAS BEEN MADE.

TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT AFTER SHIFTING INTO DRIVE UNTIL VEHICLE HAS REACHED 45-50 MPH, CONSUMER STATES THERE ARE ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. *SLC

SOMETHING HAS BEEN LEAKING ONTO CONSUMER'S GARAGE FLOOR, POSSIBLY SOMETHING FROM THE ENGINE. *SLC

CONSUMER STATES GAS MILEAGE HAS GOTTEN WORSE. *SLC

THE WINDSHIELD WIPER BRACKET FAILED AND SCRATCHED THE VEHICLES PAINT. NLM

BRAKES WOULD NOT ENGAGE DURING SLIPPERY CONDITIONS, CONSUMER FEELS THERE IS A MECHANICAL PROBLEM WHICH HAS NOT YET BEEN RESOLVED. *SLC

CONSUMER STATES VEHICLE HAS A REAR END PROBLEM THAT WAS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED TO THE DEALER, HOWEVER NO REMEDY HAS BEEN MADE.

TRANSMISSION DOES NOT SHIFT AFTER SHIFTING INTO DRIVE UNTIL VEHICLE HAS REACHED 45-50 MPH, CONSUMER STATES THERE ARE ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS. *SLC

SOMETHING HAS BEEN LEAKING ONTO CONSUMER'S GARAGE FLOOR, POSSIBLY SOMETHING FROM THE ENGINE. *SLC

CONSUMER STATES GAS MILEAGE HAS GOTTEN WORSE. *SLC

STEERING BOX LOCKED UP WHILE ON A LEFT HAND BEND. CROSSED UNCOMING TRAFFIC, ALMOST WENT OFF SIDE OF MOUNTAIN PASS. CONTACTED JEEP, THEY ARE APATHETIC ABOUT IT. HAD THIS HAVE HAPPENED AT SPEED, THE CONSEQUENCES COULD HAVE BEEN FAR WORSE.

TRANSMISSION MAKES A RATTLING NOISE AT IDLE & WHEN ENGAGING CLUTCH IN 1ST GEAR. IT IS VERY HARD TO GET IN AND OUT OF GEAR, SOMTIMES IT FEELS LIKE YOUR SHIFTING WITH OUT A CLUTCH. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN SINCE THE JEEP WAS BOUGHT NEW IN JULY 2000. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP ONCE THEY REPLACED CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. 2 DAYS LATER IT WAS DOING THE SAME THING AGAIN. ITS GOING BACK TO SERVICE APRIL 10TH. IVE READ THAT SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THERE JEEPS. I THINK CHRYSLER NEEDS TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM AND CORRECT IT. I UNDERSTAND THAT EVERY NEW CAR CAN HAVE ITS PROBLEMS, BUT CHRYSLER NEEDS TO SOLVE THEM AND FIX THEM!!! I DONT WANT TO HAVE TO TAKE MY "NEW CAR" TO SERVICE EVERY MONTH TO GET A TRANSMISSION OR CLUTCH PUT IN IT. IF I WAS GOING TO DO THAT I WOULD HAVE BOUGHT A USED ONE FOR ABOUT HALF THE PRICE!!!

WAS TOWING VEHICLE BEHIND MOTORHOME, AFTER MAKING TWO SHARP TURNS, STARTED TO FEEL A DRAGGING SENSATION. WAS NOTIFIED BY ANOTHER MOTORIST OF A PROBLEM WITH VEHICLE. PULLED OVER AND CHECKED PROBLEM. NOTICED STEERING LOCKING MECHANISM HAD LOCKED UP WHEELS, CAUSING DRAGGING SENSATION. *AK

WAS TOWING VEHICLE BEHIND MOTORHOME. AFTER MAKING 2 SHARP TURNS FELT A DRAGGING SENSATION. WAS NOTIFIED STEERING LOCKING MECHANISM HAD LOCKED UP WHEELS WHICH CAUSED DRAGGING SENSATION.*AK

MY COMPLAINT IS THE SAME AS ALL THE OTHERS, THIS WONDERFUL NEW TRANSMISSION POPS OUT OF GEAR UPON TAKE OFF PERIODICALLY. I'VE HAD TWO NEAR MISS COLLISION IN INTERSECTIONS WHEN IT POPS OUT. TRANSMISSION ALSO SOUNDS LIKE IT HAS A HANDFULL OF MARBLES IN IT. ALL THE COMPLAINTS MAKE ME FEEL BETTER BECAUSE IF I EVER GET KILLED IN AN ACCIDENT WHEN IT POPS OUT OF GEAR MY WIFE CAN SUE THE PANTS OFF OF CHRYSLER! HOPEFULLY THEY WILL RECALL THIS BEFORE THAT HAPPENS.I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CHRYSLER PRODUCT!!!

WHENEVER IT RAINS INSIDE FLOOR GETS COMPLETELY WET. DEALR HAS CLEANED IT UP, BUT CANNOT DETERMINE WHY IT HAPPENS. *AK

I MADE THE DEALER AWARE THAT THERE WAS A LEAK IN COMING THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF MY JEEP. THE SAID IT MAY BECOMING THROUGH THE PLUGS WHICH COME OUT TO RINSE THE INTERIOR. BUT WERE UNABLE TO FIND ANY PROBLEMS. THEIR RESPONSE TO ME WAS "IT'S A JEEP...JEEPS ARE SUPPOSED TO GET WET." I'M PAYING GOOD MONEY FOR THEIR TOP MODEL WRANGLER AND I DON'T WANT IT LEAKING THROUGH THE PLUGS WHEN IT RAIN. THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. BUT TOLD ME THAT THE JEEP COULD HANDLE IT.*AK

AFTER STRICKING ANOTHER VEHICLE THAT DID NOT STOP AT A STOP SIGN. JEEP STRUCK IT AT BONE MANNER, AND NEITHER AIRBAG DEPLOYED. *AK

AN UNDER HOOD FIRE WHILE TRAVELING. VEHICLE AT DEALER FOR INSPECTION. CAUSES HAVE NOT BEEN DETERMINED AT THIS TIME. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PROVIDE ANY FURTHER DETAILS ON THIS MATTER. *AK

REAR BRAKES EXTREMELY WEAK/ NON EXISTANT IN 2WD MODE. NOTICE THE PROBLEM MOST WHEN BACKING DOWN HILL IN 2WD AND BRAKES APPLIED - VEHICLE WILL SLIDE ALOT EVEN AT VERY LOW SPEEDS. IN 4WD THE STOPPING DISTANCE IS FINE. THIS VEHICLE HAS ABS AND WE TRIED DISABLING IT (AT THE DEALERS - A DEALER TECH PULLED RELAY) AND PROBLEM STILL THERE. I JACKED UP REAR OF CAR & IN DRIVE AT IDLE SPEED THE REAR TIRES WOULD NOT STOP EVEN WITH FULL BRAKES APPLIED. THE PARKING BRAKE WORKS FINE & MUST BE USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP WHEN BACKING DOWN A HILL, OTHERWISE VEHICLE MUST BE IN 4WD FOR BRAKES TO WORK PROPERLY. HAS BEEN IN SHOP TWICE, THEY REPLACED PROPORTING VALVE ON LAST TRIP BUT THIS DID NOT HELP. THE FIRST TIME THEY FRIED MY ONBOARD COMPUTER & HAD THE JEEP IN THE SHOP FOR A MONTH. THIS HAS DONE IT SINCE DAY ONE. THE DEALER KEEPS SAYING NOTHING IS WRONG.*AK

WHILE DRIVING 25MPH SHIFTED VEHICLE TO 2ND GEAR FROM 1STGEAR. PUT VEHICLE IN 4-WHEEL DRIVE, AND IN BETWEEN SHIFTING, VEHICLE JUMPED OUT OF 4-WHEEL DRIVE AND SHIFTED INTO 2ND GEAR. APPLIED GAS, AND VEHICLE WENT SIDEWAYS. SLID DOWN ROAD INTO A DITCH AND HIT TELEPHONE POLE. HAD TRIED TO BACK UP, AND NOTICED VEHICLE WAS NOT IN 4-WHEEL DRIVE. SOMETIMES LATER HAD PLACED VEHICLE IN 4-WHEEL DRIVE, AND DUE TO SNOW IT FAILED TO GO INTO 4-WHEEL DRIVE MODE. CHECKED UNDER VEHICLE AND NOTICED SNOW/ICE HAD BUILT UP ON SKIP PLATE. CLEARED SKIP PLATE AND WAS ABLE TO PUT IT INTO 4-WHEEL DRIVE. *AK

DURING HEAVY RAIN AND ONLY AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS A SEVERE LEAK DEVELOPS IN THE FRONT PASSENGER FOOT AREA, IT ALSO LEAKS IN THE RIGHT REAR STORAGE AREA. HAVE BEEN TO DEALER 3 TIMES NO FIX HAS BEEN FOUND. *AK

WARPED FRONT ROTORS REPLACED TWICE IN 9000 MILES TRANSMISSION VERY HARD TO SHIFT GRINDS GEARS. *AK

TRANSMISSION VERY NOISY WHEN IN NEUTRAL WITH CLUTCH OUT, ALSO WHILE DRIVING. HAS ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS STUCK IN 2ND. GEAR. TOOK BACK TO DEALER SEVERAL TIMES AND WAS ADVISED THAT THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO, THAT THEY ALL SOUND THAT WAY. IT HAS BECOME LOUDER WITH MORE MILEAGE ON THE VEHICLE. I AM TO THE POINT WHERE I AM CONSIDERING SELLING VEHICLE. IT SOUNDS LIKE A BUCKET OF BOLTS AND I DO NOT WANT TO WAIT UNTIL IT FAILS COMPLETLY. I HAVE HEARD OF NUMEROUS OTHERS WITH SAME PROBLEM WHO HAVE HAD THE TRANSMISSIONS REPLACED WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED IN THIS VEHICLE. *AK

WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE HORN SOUNDED ON ITS OWN ACCORD, AND CONTINUED FOR OVER 6 HOURS UNTIL THE BATTERY RAN DOWN. WHEN I JUMP STARTED THE VEHICLE, THE HORN STARTED AGAIN, THEN STOPPED. SEVERAL MILES LATER, IT WENT OFF AGAIN, AND DIDN'T STOP UNTIL I DISCONNECTED IT. THE JEEP REPAIR TELLS ME THAT THERE IS A NATIONAL BACK ORDER ON THIS PART. DOESN'T THAT WARRANT A RECALL?*AK

TRANSMISSION RATTLES IF IN NEUTRAL, WITH CLUTCH PEDAL NOT DEPRESSED. WHEN IN FIRST GEAR, WILL OFTEN POP OUT OF GEAT WITH A LOUD SOUND. DIFFICULT TO CHANGE GEARS FROM 5 TO 4 AFTER DRIVING FOR MORE THEN 30 MIN IN 5TH GEAR. PLEASE NOTE THAT I'M IN ONTARIO, CANADA, POSTAL CODE K1N 9M5, SO STATE AND ZIP INFOR IN THE FORM ARE NOT CORRECT.*AK

NVG-3550 TRANSMISSION STICKS IN ALL GEAR AFTER IT WARMS UP TO THE POINT IT IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO PULL OUT OF OR PUT INTO GEAR.. GRINDING NOISE IN TRANSMISSION WHEN IDLE (GOES AWAY WHEN CLUTCH DEPRESSED). *AK

A RATTLING/GRINDING NOISE COMES FROM THE TRANSMISSION WHEN IN NEUTRAL. WHEN BROUGHT TO THE DEALER, THEY REPLACED THE THROW-OUT BEARING. NOISE REOCCURED 2 DAYS LATER AND WAS BROUGHT BACK TO THE DEALER. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED THEY SPOKE TO THE ENGINEERS AT THE DAIMLER CHRYSLER MANUFACTURER AND THE ENGINEERS STATED THAT THE NOISE WAS DUE TO A MANUFACTURING DESIGN CHANGE OF THE TRANSMISSION IN THE 2000 JEEP WRANGLERS AND THAT THEY USED A NEW TRANSMISSION OIL WHICH IS THINNER AND WHEN THE CAR WARMS UP THE OIL BECOMES EVEN THINNER AND CAUSES THE RATTLING. THE DEALERSHIP ALSO STATED THAT THE NOISE IS NORMAL.*AK

TRANSMISSION GRINDS WHEN SHIFTING INTO SECOND GEAR MOST OF THE TIME... GRINDING IS MOST NOTICABLE AFTER THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN DRIVEN FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES. THE WARMER THE TRANSMISION GETS THE WORSE THE SHIFTING GETS. I HAVE HAD IT POP OUT OF GEAR TWICE WHEN STARTING FROM A STOP. THE SHIFTING IS NOTCHY IN ALL OF THE GEARS ESPECIALLY 2ND GEAR. THERE IS ALSO A RATTLE WHILE IN NEUTRAL AND IT WILL NOT GO INTO 1ST AT TIMES, YOU MUST PUT IT BACK IN NEUTRAL AND RE ENGAGE THE CLUTCH FOR IT TO GO INTO GEAR. *AK

DAIMLER-CHRYSLER IS REFUSING TO COVER POWERTRAIN DAMAGE. *AK

CONSUMER PUT VEHICLE IN DRIVE & IT WENT INTO REVERSE. DEALER REPLACED THE MASTER CYLINGER BECAUSE WHILE BRAKING PEDAL WENT TO FLOOR, CONSUMER LATER HEARD A NOISE WHILE BRAKING, DEALER LUBRICATED AND ADJUSTED REAR DRUMS. REAR GLASS WAS CHIPPED AND WAS REPLACED. *SLC

5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION STARTED (NV3500) IS NOT SHIFTING SMOOTHLY INTO ANY GEAR. THERE IS RESISTANCE AND A GRINDING SOUND DURING SHIFTING INTO ANY AND ALL GEARS. TRANSMISSION EMITS A "CLUNKING" NOISE WHEN CLUTCH IS DISENGAGED BETWEEN GEAR SHIFTS. ON 11/06/2000, VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO DEALERSHIP RESPONSIBLE FOR WARRANTY SERVICE REPAIRS. DEALER CLAIMED THAT THEY ROAD-TESTED THE VEHICLE AND THAT ALL SHIFTING FUNCTIONS WERE "WORKING TO FACTORY SPECS". DEALERSHIP REFUSED TO PERFORM ANY FURTHER INVESTIGATION INTO THIS COMPLAINT AND DID NOT OFFER A REMEDY OR OFFER TO REPAIR. AFTER 2 MORE WEEKS OF OPERATION, THE GEAR GRINDING IS GETTING WORSE AND MORE RESISTIVE TO SHIFTING FROM GEAR TO GEAR. *AK

WHEN IT RAINS VEHICLE FLOODS IN THE FRONT AND IN THE BACK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I HAVE BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER 2 TIMES TO BE FIXED YET THE PROBLEM KEEPS REOCCURRING. THEY HAVE REPLACED ALMOST EVERYTING ON THE PASSENGER SIDE TO STOP IT BUT IT STILL HAPPENS. MY CARPET IS GETTTING RUINED AND MY CAR IS STARTING TO SMELL LIKE MILDUE. *AK

VEHICLE WILL VIOLENTLY JUMP OUT OF 1ST GEAR UPON ACCELERATION. DEALER HAS REPLACED TRANSMISSION ONCE AT 404 MILES. MANUFACTURER DID CHANGE SUPPLIER.*AK THE REPLACED TRANSMISSION HAS EXCESSIVE NOISE, AND IT IS DIFFICULT TO CHANGE GEARS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS WARMED UP. THE VEHICLE IS DEFECTIVE. *YH

TRANSMISSION POPS OUT OF 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. TRANSMISSION VERY NOISY WHILE IDLING IN NEURTRAL. NOISE STOPS WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED. NOISE IS WORSE WHEN TRANSMISSION IS HOT. DEALER REPLACED TRANSMISSION WHICH CORRECTED POPPING OUT OF GEAR PROBLEM BUT NEW TRANNY IS STILL NOISY WHEN IDLING IN NEURTRAL.

I BELIEVE A BRAND NEW VEHICLE SHOULD HAVE NOTHING WRONG WITH IT FOR AT LEAST 2 YEARS THATS WHY I BOUGHT A NEW ONE. THIS HAS BEEN THE WORST TIME OF MY LIFE AND I CANNOT GET HELP WITHOUT SPENDING LOADS OF MONEY TO FIGHT THESE PEOPLE AND CHRYSLER. NO ,SAFETY DEFECT LISTED IN SUMMARY. *AK

VERY HARD TO DOWN SHIFT FROM 5TH AFTER HIGHWAY DRIVING, LOUD CLUTCH NOISE WHEN IDLING IN NEUTRAL.*AK

WATER LEAKS UNDER THE DASH ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IF DRIVING AT HIWAY SPEEDS. TRANSMISSION POPS OUT OF GEAR AT TAKE OFF AND IS HARD TO SHIFT AFTER THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN AND WARMED UP.

5SPD TRANSMISSION IS ABNORNALLY LOUD AND OCCASIONALLY POPS OUT OF GEAR.*AK

TRANSMISSION IS HARD TO SHIFT OUT OF 2ND GEAR (ALMOST TO THE POINT OF BEING STUCK) AFTER THE TRANSMISSION HAS WARMED UP.

THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2000 WRANGLER MAKES NOISE WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN NEUTRAL WITH THE CLUTCH RELEASED.THE TRANSMISSION AND THE TRANSFER CASE HAVE BOTH BEEN REPLACED AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL ONGOING.THE TRANSMISSION HAS ALSO POPPED OUT OF GEAR WHILE TAKING OFF AND DURING REGULAR DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME THAT ALL THE 2000 MODELS MAKE THIS NOISE AND THAT THERE IS NO FIX FOR THIS PROBLEM.

WHEN CONSUMER APPLIES BRAKE PEDAL IT GOES ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE FLOOR. BRAKES WOULDN'T HOLD. CONSUMER HAS TO USE EMERGENCY BRAKES IN ORDER TO STOP.*AK THE BRAKE FAILED DUE TO DEFECTIVE BRAKE CYLINDER. THE OWNER SAYS THE REAR GLASS IS ALSO DEFECTIVE AS WELL AS THE TIRE, WHICH WAS REPLACED. *YH

TRANSMISSION IS VERY LOUD WHN IDLING (STOPS WHEN CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED), AFTER EXTENDED DRIVE TIME - CLUTCH BECOMES VERY STICKY AND DIFFICULT TO SHIFT, OCCASIONAL DROPPING FROM GEAR.*AK

1. TRANSMISSION EXTREMELY NOISY IN NEUTRAL (CLUTCH NOT DEPRESSED); 2. SHIFTING IS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT AFTER DRIVING LONG DISTANCES (AFTER HEATING UP); & 3. TRANSMISSION POPS OUT OF GEAR (1ST) OCCASIONALLY.

SINCE THE DAY I PICKED UP MY JEEP FROM THE DEALER IT HAS MADE A LOUD GRINDING/GROWLING NOISE WHEN IT IS IN NEUTRAL WITH THE CLUCH OUT. IT SOUND LIKE IT WOULD BE THE INPUT SHAFT BEARING TO THE TRANNY. AT FIRST WHEN THE DEALER HEARD IT THEY SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE A BAD BEARING TO THEM, BUT WHEN I TOOK IT IN TO HAVE THEM LOOK AT IT FURTHER THEY SAID THAT THE NOISE WAS NORMAL. THERE ARE OTHER PROBLEMS WITH IT POPPING OUT OF GEAR AND HARD TO SHIFT, WHICH I HAVE NOT EXPERIANCED YET BUT DUE TO THE NOISE I SUSPECT THAT IS NOT FAR AWAY.

THIS REPORT IS REGARDING THE NV3550 CLUTCH CHATTER ON MY JEEP. I HAVE BEEN REPORTING THIS TO VARIOUS DEALERS AND TO DAIMLER CHRYSLER SINCE I TOOK DELIVERY OF THE VEHICLE. I KNOW MANY OTHERS WITH THE SAME ISSUES. DC AND DEALERS BEGAN BY SAYING IT WAS NORMAL. NOW THERE ARE RUMORS THAT THERE WILL BE A TSB RELEASED ON THIS ISSUE. I AM REPORTING IT TO YOU AS SUGGESTED BY A FRIEND--MAINLY 'FOR THE RECORD.' THANKS.

TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT STILL MAKES GRINDING NOISE WHEN IN NEUTRAL. IF CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED NOISE WILL GO AWAY. ALSO, STICK SHIFT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO MOVE AFTER HIGHWAY TRAVEL.

NVG 3550 5-SPEED MANUAL PRODUCES LOUD NOISE WHEN IDLING IN NEUTRAL. DEALER CLAIMS THIS IS NORMAL. TRANSMISSION DIFFICLUT TO SHIFT WHEN HOT. DEALER CLAIMS COULD NOT DUPLICATE PROBLEM.

UPON STARTING OF VEHICLE AFTER FUELING A 'POP' WAS HEARD FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND ENGINE STALLED. RESTARTED ENGINE WITH NO DIFFICULTY AND ENCOUNTERED A HIGH IDLE SPEED. CHECKED TO SEE IF LINKAGE WAS SOMEHOW BINDING OR IF VEHICLE HAD BACKFIRED THROUGH THE THROTTLE BODY. NO EVIDENCE OF DAMAGE DUE TO BACKFIRE SO PROCEEDED TO DRIVE VEHICLE. AFTER TRAVELING APPROXIMATELY 40 MILES OF HIGHWAY ENCOUNTERED A STOP LIGHT, APPLIED BRAKES TO FIND THAT THERE WERE NONE. AT THAT POINT REALIZED THAT THE SOUND HEARD UPON STARTING WAS THAT OF THE VACUUM BOOSTER HOSE SEPERATING FROM THE MANIFOLD. NOTED THAT NEITHER HOSE INSTALLED AT THIS POINT ARE SECURED WITH A HOSE CLAMP. REINSTALLED HOSE AND HAVE HAD NO FURTHER OCCURRENCE.*AK

SINCE PURCHASE HAS HAD ROUGH GRINDING LIKE SHIFTING FROM FIRST TO SECOND GEAR, OFTEN WITH LOUD CLUNKING SOUNDS AND STIFF SHIFTING. DEALER NOTIFIED TWICE BUT SAID THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. MANY OTHERS COMPLAINING OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH THE NVG 3550 MANUAL 5 SPEED TRANSMISSION. I FEAR SOMEDAY THIS TRANSMISSION WILL COMPLETELY FAIL AND CAUSE A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. *MR *NLM **DIMSII IVOQ ENTRY POSTED AFTER 12/12/02 CUT-OVER TO ARTEMIS*733521

GRINDING / RATTLING NOISE COMING FROM TRANSMISSION AREA WHEN CLUTCH PEDAL NOT DEPRESSED AND STOPS WHEN DEPRESSED. PROBLEM ALSO WORSENS AS VEHICLE WARMS UP. THIS HAS OCCURED AND PERSISTED SINCE VEHICLE WAS FIRST PURCHASED. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALER AND WAS TOLD THAT THERE WAS NO PROBLEM. TRANSMISSION ALSO BECOMES PROGRESSIVELY HARDER TO SHIFT AFTER VEHICLE IS DRIVEN FOR A SHORT TIME.

SAGGING IN FRONT MIDDLE OF REMOVABLE HARD TOP. WATER ALSO COLLECTS IN THIS SPOT. ROOF HAS BEEN THIS WAY SINCE VEHICLE WAS FIRST PURCHASED.

TRANMISSION STICKS IN 2ND GEAR WHEN ENGINE IS HOT. ALSO TRANSMISSION MAKES A RATTILING NOISE IN NEUTRAL. THIS IS A BRAND NEW CAR AND HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM SINCE I PURCHASED IT. THE DEALER(NOT THE ONE I PURCHASED IT FROM) SAYS IT HAS NO KNOWLEDGE OF ANY PROBLEMS.*AK

WIIL NOT SHIFT OUT ON 2ND GEAR WHEN HOT-ALSO NOISEY AT IDLE OUT OF GEAR. *AK

WAS NOISY WHEN PURCHASED THEY CHANGED THE THROW OUT BEARING DIDN'T SOLVE PROBLEM. *AK

UNDER DASHBOARD ITS LEAKING. WATER IS GETTING INSIDE OF VEHICLE ON DRIVER/PASSENGER SIDES. CARPET IN VEHICLE WOULD BE SOAKED DUE TO LEAKAGE. PROBLEM CAN HAPPEN EVEN IF ITS WASSNOWING. HAVE TAKEN VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES FOR THE LEAKAGE PROBLEM & THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. *AK

TRANSMISSION KICKS VIOLENTLY OUT OF FIRST GEAR WHEN ACCELERATING FROM A STOP. PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT BUT HAS BEEN PRESENT FROM DAY ONE OF OWNERSHIP. DESIGN DEFECT! NHTSA - REFERENCE OTHER IDENTICAL COMPLAINTS IN THE ODI DATABASE!

TRANSMISSION HAS A GRINDING NOISE WHEN SHIFTING INTO 2ND AND 3RD GEARS. WHEN THE TRANSMISSION GETS HOT IT'S HARD TO SHIFT OUT OF AND INTO GEARS. THE CLUTCH IS VERY NOISY WHEN IS ENGAGED AND DISENGAGED.

THE MANUAL SHIFTING KEEPS LOCKING UP. IT DOESN'T SHIFT PROPERLY. DEALER KEEPS SAYING "NORMAL" BUT IT'S NOT NORMAL WHEN I DRIVE OTHER JEEPS ON THE LOT.

TRANSMISSION MAKES GRINDING NOISE WHILE CLUTCH IS NOT BEING PRESSED. WHEN TRANSMISSION HEATS UP, NOISE GRADUALLY GETS WORSE. TRANSMISSION POPS OUT OF SECOND GEAR. *AK

VERY HARD TO SHIFT WHEN IT GETS WARMED UP. *AK

VERY HARD TO SHIFT WHEN IT GETS WARMED UP. *AK

TRANSMISSION WAS VERY HARD TO SHIFT, PROBLEM WAS SPORADIC. HARD TO GET OUT OF GEAR AND THEN SUDDENLY WOULD RELEASE UNEXPECTEDLY. WOULD HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING FOR A PERIOD OF TIME & NOT RIGHT AWAY. TOOK TO DEALER, AND TRANSMISSION WAS REPLACED AT LEAST 3 TIMES. BEEN BACK OFF/ON AT DEALER 10 TIMES. NOW ON 4TH TRANSMISSION & DEALER WILL NOT REPAIR PROBLEM AGAIN. *AK

ENGINE CHECK LIGHT CAME ON/VEHICLE STARTED SMOKING. CONSUMER COULD SMELL GAS.TURNED VEHICLE OFF AND HAD IT TOWED. DEALER SAID SAID IT WAS THE PCM. ALSO, MANUAL TRANSMISSION MAKES NOISE AND IT IS DIFFICULT TO CHANGE GEARS.*AK

HILLSBORO JEEP ADMITS THAT MY TRANSMISSION ISN'T WORKING PROPERLY BUT REFUSES TO DO ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM

TRANSMISSION MAKES A NOISE, SOUNDS LIKE THE CLUTCH-RELEASE BEARING (THROW-OUT BEARING) AS THE SOUND GOES AWAY WHEN THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS PRESSED. IN ADDITION THERE IS A VIBRATION NOISE WHEN SHIFTING THROUGH THE GEARS. DEALER STATES THIS IS NORMAL FOR THE JEEP MANUAL TRANSMISSION??*AK

WHEN SHIFTING VEHICLE FROM ANY OF THE GEARS, THEY GET STUCK IN BETWEEN. DEALERSHIP MECHANIC REPLACED TRANSMISSION TWICE . BUT, PROBLEM IS STILL THERE.*AK THE TRANSMISSION MUST BE DEFECTIVE BECAUSE IT CONTINUOUS TO MALFUNCTION, AND IT IS SAFETY HAZARD. *YH

GRINDING NOISE WHEN CLUTCH DISENGARED AND WHILE DRIVING. HARD TO SHIFT. GRINGING NOISE WHEN VEHICLE IS TURNED OFF. CONTACTED AND BROUGHT TO DEALER 4X ON 4TH X DEALER SAID TRANSMISSION NEED TO REPLACED AS WELL AS THE BEARING SPRING AND FORK. *AK

TRANSMISSION IS VERY NOISEY WHILE IN NEUTRAL AND WHILE SHIFTING. GETS STUCK IN GEAR SOMETIMES, AND JUMPS OUT OF FIRST GEAR AT TIMES. "CLUNKY" GOING FROM FIRST TO SECOND GEAR AND WILL ROLL IN FORWARD OR REVERSE IF YOU SIMULATE PUTTING VEHICLE IN GEAR WITHOUT TOUCHING ANY PEDALS, AND IT LURCHES FORWARD WHEN PLACING IN GEAR FROM A STAND STILL.*AK

TRANSMISSION KICKS OUT OF FIRST GEAR WHEN BEGINING TO ACCELERATE. ALSO, MAKES NOISE WHEN IN NUETRAL.*AK

NEW TRANSMISSION AT 479 MILES PLUS SEVERAL OTHER REPAIRS. SPEEDOMETER OFF 8 MILES PER HOUR. THIS PROBLEM STILL HAS NOT BEEN FIXED. DING IN DOOR POST BETWEEN WINDSHIELD AND DRIVER'S DOOR ON DELIVERY. WIND NOISE ABOVE PASSENGER DOOR FRAME. LEAKS AROUND DRIVER AND BACK DOOR SEALS. OIL GALLERY PLUG HAD TO BE REPLACED AT 3,149 MILES. HAD TO REMOVE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE. JEEP WAS IN SHOP FOR A TOTAL OF 32 DAYS IN ORDER TO HAVE ALL WORK ACCOMPLISHED. NEW TRANSMISSION STILL NOT WORKING CORRECTLY. TRANSMISSION JUMPS OUT OF FIRST GEAR SOMETIMES WHEN VEHICLE IS MOVING FORWARD. NEW TRANSMISSION WAS INSTALLED, BUT PROBLEM OF CLUNKING SOUND DURING GEAR CHANGE AND KICKING OUT OF GEAR IS NOT SOLVED. WAS TOLD BY AGENCY SHOP THAT CHRYSLER CORPORATION HAD A NEW MANFACTURER FOR 2000 JEEP TRANSMISSIONS AND THE NOISE WAS JUST PART OF THE LIGHTER TRANSMISSON. TRANSMISSION STILL IS NOISY AND SOUNDS DRY ALL THE TIME. WE ARE AFRAID TO DIRVE THE VEHICLE AS WE DON'T REALLY HAVE FAITH THE TRANSMISSION WILL HOLD UP AND WE WILL BE IN TROUBLE AT SOME POINT IN TRAFFIC.*AK

WHILE DRIVING IN THE RAIN AND APPROACHING A STOP LIGHT OR SIGN REAR BRAKES LOCKED UP, CAUSING VEHICLE TO CHANGE LANES. CONTACTED DEALER. *AK

WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY TRAVELING 60MPH IN HEAVY DOWNPOUR, NOTICED WATER DRIPPING ON OCCUPANTS FEET ON PASSENGER'S SIDE. CONTACTED DEALER. DEALER DID A WATER TEST, BUT COULDN'T LOCATE THE PROBLEM. CURRENTLY, CURRENTLY, IT ALSO WAS HAPPENING ON DRIVER'S SIDE. TOOK THE GLOVE BOX OUT, BUT THERE WAS WATER ON THE FUSE BOX, AND HARNESS ASSEMBLY. *AK

AT INITIAL DELIVERY OF VEHICLE AND DRIVING HOME HEARD A LOW GRINDING SOUND. IT WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO SHIFT. CONTACTED DEALER, AND DEALER REPLACED TRANSMISSION. NEW TRANSMISSION NOISY, MANUFACTURER SAID NOISE WAS ACCEPTABLE. *AK *ML

THE DEALERSTATES "CHRYSLER SAID A 4 CYLINDER AUTOMATIC WILL TOP OUT A 64MPH." THIS JEEP LOSES POWER AT 60MPH AND EVEN WHEN FLOORED WILL NOT REACH 70MPH.IT ALSO HAD A FUEL INJECTOR REPLACED AT 179MILES. *AK

VEHICLE PICKED UP ON 6/3/00. WAS DRIVING TO WORK ON 6/4/00 WHEN RIGHT REAR WHEEL SEPARATED FROM VEHICLE. FELT LIKE A BLOWOUT. WAS ABLE TO CONTROL VEHICLE & PULL TO SIDE OF ROAD. VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. MECHANIC INDICATED THE WHEEL WAS TAMPERED WITH. VEHICLE ONLY HAD 73 MILES ON IT. *AK *ML

WHILE LOOKING OVER NEW VEHICLE NOTICED REAR SEAT BELTS WERE NOT BOLTED DOWN TO FLOOR OF VEHICLE, THE BOLT WAS JUST LAYING ON THE FLOOR . DEALER BOLTED SEAT BELT DOWN. *AK.ET.

WATER SPRAYING INSIDE BY FOOT AREA (FLOOR) OF VEHICLE WHILE DRIVING IN THE RAIN . APPROX. SPEED 55 MPH. BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER EXPERIENCED WET FLOOR AND SHOES WHILE DRIVING.*AK

TRANSMISSION BECAME NOISY. REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. TRANS MODEL NVG-3550. *AK

CONSUMER WENT TO PRESS THE HORN WHEN IT DID NOT SOUND. KEPT PRESSING THE HORN PAD WHEN AIRBAG FELL OFF. APPARENTLY AIRBAG WAS NEVER BOLTED DOWN AT THE FACTORY WHICH CAUSED IT TO FALL. CONSUMER CALLED MANUFACTURER, AND WAS TOLD THAT MISTAKE HAPPENED, AND THERE WAS A WARRANTY TO CORRECT IT. *AK

TRANSMISSION (5SPEED) JUMPS OUT OF FIRST GEAR ALL THE TIME WHEN STARTING FROM A STANDING START. HAS DONE THIS SINCE THE NIGHT I PICKED UP THE VEHICLE. DEALERSHIP ASK ME TO DRIVE IT FOR A FEW MILES TO SEE IF IT WOULD CLEAR UP, IT DIDN'T. HAS GOTTEN ME INTO TROUBLE SEVERAL TIMES WHILE TRYING TO MERGE WITH TRAFFIC. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO HAPPEN. *AK

THERE HAVE NOW BEEN 4 TRANSMISSIONS IN MY NEW JEEP THAT ALL HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH NOISE, SHIFTING INTO AND OUT OF GEAR AS WELL AS GETTING STUCK IN GEAR WHILE DRIVING. *AK

WHEN IT RAINS VEHICLE FLOODS AT THE BOTTOM ON THE PASSENGER' SIDE. CONSUMER HAS CONTACTED THE DEALER 2-3 TIMES TO BE FIXED, BUT THE PROBLEM KEEPS REOCCURRING. *AK

WHEN JEEP IS STOPPED AT SIDE ANGLE ON HILL, SEATBELT IS INOPERATIVE AFTER GETTING BACK INTO VEHICLE. I HAD TO DRIVE DOWN STEEP HILL TWICE WITH NO SEATBELT ON. SIMPLE MOMENTARY BYPASS BUTTON TO CENTER PENDULUM WOULD ALLOW FASTENING SEATBELT WHEN VEHICLE IS AT AN ANGLE.

THE CONSUMER STATED THAT HE WAS DRIVING AND WHEN HE APPLIES HIS BRAKES THE BRAKE PEDAL WENT DOWN TO THE FLOOR. AND ALSO WHEH HE APPLIES BRAKES THE CONSUMER STATES THAT HE HEARS NOISES FROM THE REAR WHEEL AND LEFT WHEEL. THE CONSUMER TOOKS HIS VECHICLE TO THE DEALER . MJS

SEAT BELT IS FLAPPING AND RUBBING AGAINST SEAT. *AK