JTDKBRFU6J30660222018 TOYOTA PriusOne/Two

Both taillamps holding moisture. Could cause electrical issues or fire. .. same year and model car have same reported issues and were fixed by manufacturer. This vehicle is the same but different level.

Driver door lock actuator not working. This seems to be a common problem for Toyota over the last decade, but they yet to put more vehicles to their recall list. Actuator just stopped working. I have to use key out of FOB to manually open. This is a safety issue if I’m trying to get in my car quickly for safety reasons and it does not open.

The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Prius. The contact stated the trunk opened at a slow speed and failed to remain open. The dealer was contacted and informed of the failure. The dealer informed the contact that the vehicle needed to be taken in to be inspected. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and confirmed that the VIN was not covered under recall. The manufacturer directed the contact back to the dealer for assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Was driving around 35 mph and my right side mirror blew up. The back blew off and the mirror was shattered and hanging. Nothing hit it. Contacted Toyota and the parts have been on a stop, but there is no recall. It has been 4 months.

The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Prius. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed with a failed heat exchanger, catalytic converter, and exhaust system. The contact was informed that the heat exchanger, the catalytic converter, and the exhaust system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but provided no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 89,682.

The contact owns a 2018 Toyota Prius. The contact stated that while in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The brake pedal was applied but failed to respond. The driver crashed into the front passenger side of the Lexus. The vehicle continuously moved forward. The contact was eventually able to pull over safely. The pre-collision malfunction warning light illuminated. The brake malfunction light was flashing. The air bags did not deploy. There was no reported fire or injury. A police report was filed. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who could not determine the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vehicle was then towed to an autobody center where it remained. The manufacturer was contacted, but no additional assistance was provided. The approximate failure mileage was 39,000.

The Airbag lights were lit, the person sitting with seatbelt on (flashing) and the person sitting with an inflated airbag in front of them. I ran an OBD2 scan on SRS and got code B1656. Driver seat belt buckle Left Hand. I Investigated the latch and found one wire was snapped off and a couple of inches shorter that the wire that was still connected. I have included 2 pictures of the back end of the seat belt latch. You can see the broken wire and where it use to be connected.

Someone rear-ended my Prius and they were driving a Ford 250 truck pulling a large flatbed truck that had a huge box on it. My seat went forward and backwards - I slammed my knee under the dashboard and then slammed by head into the headrest and I could not reach the pedals after this. I have repeatedly asked the collision center to look at it because there is nothing about it on the report of the estimate of repairs. My adult son was a passenger in the front and his seat didn't move.

AIRBAG LIGHT ON

The automatic high beams will occasionally fail to operate and are stuck in low beams until about 2 minutes have passed, or until the automatic high beams switch is turned off to disable the system. This seems to be a software issue, as it seems to occur when an approaching vehicle passes by with bright lights. When this happens, all high beams are disabled for a couple of minutes, even if the high beam lever is switched to low beams and back to high.

Stopped at red light, then the car didn't accelerate when hitting gas. Engine revs but the car does not accelerate. It happened multiple time when the car was out in sun with full ac on(100f). Happened once in intersection and almost got hit head on

UNKNOWN My car started stalling when it comes to a full stop. I.e. if I stop at a red light or stop sign, and I then press the gas, it stalls. It might inch forward, but it doesn’t really accelerate. This happened last year, and I took it to the dealer. They couldn’t reproduce the results, and they could only suggest changing my small 12V battery. Today, it stalled 8 times, between 2 short drives. Each at a stop sign only travelling ~5 miles total. I have an appointment at the dealer but this is exactly what happened last year with no diagnosis. No check engine light is on or anything.

MY WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE WITHOUT BEING STRUCK BY AN OBJECT AND WITHOUT BEING NEAR ANOTHER VEHICLE. BOTH INCIDENTS OCCURRED DURING NORMAL HIGHWAY DRIVING. I WAS NOT SPEEDING OR DRIVING RECKLESSLY. BOTH TIMES REQUIRED THE REPLACEMENT OF THE WINDSHIELD AS THE CRACK QUICKLY SPREAD AND AFFECTED A GOOD PORTION OF THE WINDSHIELD. I AM REQUESTING REIMBURSEMENT FOR THE COST OF REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD (TWICE). THE FIRST INCIDENT OCCURRED JUST A FEW DAYS AFTER PURCHASE. THE SECOND INCIDENT OCCURRED TODAY, MARCH 4, 2021.

ON DEC 2, 2020 WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT ABOUT 45-50 MPH OUR SUNROOF EXPLODED CAUSING US TO GET TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE SHADE WAS CLOSED WHICH SAVED US FROM EXPLODING GLASS. THERE WERE NO ROAD HAZARDS, NO ISSUES OTHER THAN A SPONTANEOUS EXPLODING OF OUR SUNROOF. THE ORLANDO POLICE DEPT WAS SUMMONED AND THE ROADRANGERS STOPPED TO ASSIST US. I TOOK THE CAR DIRECTLY TO THE TOYOTA DEALERSHIP IN CLERMONT, FL AND THEY REPAIRED THE GLASS AT NO CHARGE BUT TOLD ME HAD THE CAR NOT BEEN UNDER MANUFACTURER WARRANTY I WOULD HAVE BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF REPLACEMENT. IF THE SHADE HAD NOT BEEN CLOSED THE ENTIRE PASSENGERS WITHIN THE CABIN WOULD HAVE BEEN SPLATTERED WITH SHATTERED GLASS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING ABOUT 65 MPH, ANOTHER VEHICLE PULLED INTO THE HIGHWAY, WITHOUT STOPPING, AND CRASHED INTO THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE FENDER OF THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT NONE OF THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. THERE WAS NO WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED INJURIES THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION, INCLUDING BACK, NECK, ANKLE AND HEAD INJURIES. HE ALSO STATED THAT HE RIPPED THE TENDON ON THE RING FINGER. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOTALED AND WAS TOWED TO A TOW YARD. THE DEALER WAS NOT CALLED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000. *LN*JB

ERROR CODES P0113 AND P0102 AND WARNING MESSAGES FOR CHECK ENGINE AND ICS MALFUNCTION* LAPPEARED WHEN STARTING THE GARAGED VEHICLE IN APPROXIMATELY 55F ROOM TEMPERATURE. TOYOTA OF ESCONDIDO AND TOYOTA'S CUSTOMER CARE TELEPHONE CENTER EXPLAINED THAT THEY WILL NOT INSPECT (ALTHOUGH UNDER THE 3-YEAR/36,000 MILES WARRANTY) WITHOUT A SERVICE FEE. ONLINE, REPORTS THAT A FAILING 12V BATTERY MAY CAUSE MULTIPLE CODES TO BE TRIGGERED WERE ALSO MET WITH A REQUEST FOR A $110 DIAGNOSTIC FEE. THE BATTERY IS ALSO UNDER THE 3-YEAR/36,000 MILE WARRANTY. ERROR CODES AND MESSAGES IMPLICATE FUEL EFFICIENCY, POLLUTION AND SAFETY ISSUES. *ICS IS THEIR COLLISION SENSOR SYSTEM.

AUTO HIGH BEAM FEATURE INTERMITTENTLY CUTS OUT AND THEN RESUMES, ESPECIALLY FREQUENTLY IN RAINY WEATHER. WHILE OFF, I CANNOT ENGAGE THE HIGH BEAM WITHOUT FIRST SHUTTING OFF THE AHB FEATURE. MANY SIMILAR REPORTS REGARDING TOYOTA VEHICLES; SEE HTTPS://WWW.RAV4WORLD.COM/THREADS/AUTO-HIGH-BEAM-ISSUES.242329/

THE CAR IS INADEQUATE IN THE WINTER. WHEN IT SNOWS I CAN'T KEEP THE WINDOWS CLEAN. THEY CHANGED THE FITTINGS AND I CAN'T EVEN PUT WINTER BLADES ON THE CAR. ALSO, AND THIS APPLIES TO ALMOST ALL NEW CARS AS WELL, THE LED LIGHTS FREEZE OVER. IT'S A SAFETY HAZARD NOT TO HAVE LIGHTS THAT WORK. AND IT'S A SAFETY HAZARD TO HAVE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR IN DANGEROUS CONDITIONS TO TRY AND SCRAPE ICE OFF THE WINDOWS AND LIGHTS. THE FRONT AND REAR LIGHTS GET CAKED WITH ICE AND SNOW. THIS PICTURE IS OF MY WINDSHIELD AFTER AN HOUR OF WARMING UP. THE WIPERS STAY CAKED WITH ICE. AND WHEN I TURN THEM ON, THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS. THEY SMEAR THE WINDSHIELD WITH ICE. THEY SMEAR IT WITH WATER TOO. I CAN'T SQUEEGEE WATER WITH ICE. I'D LOVE TO TRADE IT IN, BUT EVERYONE HAS LED LIGHTS. THEY'RE A SAFETY HAZARD. AND THESE ISSUES ARE KEEPING ME FROM BUYING A NEW CAR. I WOULD APPRECIATE IT IF YOU ADDRESSED THESE ISSUES. THE CAR COMPANIES WON'T LISTEN TO ME. THANK YOU HAVE A GREAT DAY

AUTOMATIC HIGH BEAMS DIM AND THEN FAIL TO BRIGHTEN INTERMITTENTLY. WHEN DRIVING, AUTOMATIC HIGH BEAMS FUNCTION AS INTENDED THEN THE DASH INDICATOR SPONTANEOUSLY TURNS OFF AND THE HEADLIGHTS FAIL TO BRIGHTEN. VEHICLE HAS BEEN TO THE DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT TWICE FOR THIS. THE SECOND TIME , THE DEALER WAS ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM BOTH IN MY VEHICLE AND IN A 2019 PRIUS FROM THE INVENTORY. TOYOTA TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE IS ADAMANT THAT THE PROBLEM IS NORMAL FUNCTIONALITY. I FAIL TO UNDERSTAND HOW THE HIGH BEAMS NOT BRIGHTENING WHEN THEY SHOULD DURING NIGHT DRIVING IS NORMAL FUNCTIONALITY.

I WAS DRIVING UP TO MY GARAGE ON THE SIDE OF MY HOUSE ON A CLEAR DAY, EARLY AFTERNOON. I WAS TRAVELING ABOUT 3 MPH AND TRIED TO STOP TO PARK IN FRONT OF THE GARAGE DOOR. I DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL AND IT DID NOT ENGAGE, BUT LURCHED FORWARD INTO THE GARAGE, CRASHING INTO THE GARAGE AND CAUSING DAMAGE TO BOTH THE GARAGE AND THE AUTO.

THE HEAT SHIELD ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR, BY THE STORAGE BATTERY CAME LOSE WHILE DRIVING AND WAS DAMAGED. IT IS HELD IN PLACE BY ONLY FOUR PLASTIC PINS. THE CAR IS SO LOW TO THE GROUND THAT IT IS HARD TO CLEAR NORMAL SPEED BUMPS LET ALONE OLDER LARGER ONES. WE WERE TRAVELING A HOUSING ADDITION LESS THAN 20 MPH AND JUST WENT OVER AN OLDER HIGH SPEED-BUMP AND PUDDLE WHEN IT OCCURRED. WE DROVE THE LAST 100 OR SO FEET HOME AND WIRED IT UP OUT OF THE WAY SO THE CAR COULD BE DRIVEN AT LOW SPEED TOO THE DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP TOLD US THIS WAS DAMAGE DUE TO OUR DRIVING NEGLIGENCE IE: "WE HIT SOMETHING". WHEN THIS SHIELD COMES OFF IT FALLS STRAIGHT INTO THE VEHICLE EXHAUST PIPE AND GROUND, THERE IS NO SIMPLE WAY TO REMOVE THE PIECE UNTIL A FULL REPAIR CAN BE COMPLETED. IT MUST BE WIRED UP OFF THE GROUND OR PART OF THE WHEEL AND EXHAUST MUST BE DISCONNECTED. IT TOOK THE DEALERSHIP THREE TRIES AND OVER A MONTH TO GET THE CORRECT SHIELD IN AND PERFORM THE REPAIR. THE PART NUMBER IN THE TOYOTA PARTS SPECIFICATION AND THE REPAIR PARTS WAREHOUSE OR NOT THE SAME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 TOYOTA PRIUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE THE VEHICLE HAD EXPERIENCED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION AND CRASHED INTO A SECOND PARKED VEHICLE. NO INJURIES WERE REPORTED. A POLICE REPORT WAS TAKEN AT THE SCENE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE LOCAL DEALER DCH TOYOTA (1504 US HWY 1 NORTH BRUNSWICK NJ) BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 6,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2018 TOYOTA PRIUS. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILED AND EVERYTHING IN THE VEHICLE SHUT DOWN. THE VEHICLE DECELERATED AND LOST POWER. WHILE THE VEHICLE COASTED, THE ENGINE RESTARTED ON ITS OWN. THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN TO TOYOTA VALLEJO (201 AUTO MALL PARKWAY, VALLEJO, CA 94591, 707-552-4545) TO BE DIAGNOSED, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE REPLICATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 8,600.

I STARTED MY CAR, PUT IT IN DRIVE AND BEGAN TO MAKE A U TURN OUT OF A PARKING LOT WHEN IT SUDDENLY ACCELERATED ON ITS OWN. I HAD THREE TURNS I HAD TO MAKE IN QUICK SUCCESSION (U TURN, LEFT ON PUBLIC DRIVEWAY, RIGHT ON MAIN ROAD) TO GET ON TO THE MAIN ROAD, AND I DID THIS AT BREAK NECK SPEED. BY THE SECOND TURN I WAS GIVING ALL MY STRENGTH TO TRYING TO GET THE BRAKE TO WORK, UNSUCCESSFULLY (LOCKED), AND WAS FULLY FOCUSSED ON TURNING THE CAR SAFELY TO SAVE MY LIFE AT SUCH HIGH SPEED. MY TIRES SQUEALED ON THE THIRD TURN AND MY CELL PHONE FLEW THROUGH THE AIR. I COULD NOT MAKE A TIGHT RIGHT TURN SO MADE MY TURN IN TO THE LEFT LANE (PROUD OF MY DRIVING SUCCESS GIVEN THE SPEED). ONCE I NAVIGATED THE TURNS THE CAR SLOWED DOWN AND BRAKES WORKED AS NORMAL. THIS ALL HAPPENED IN AROUND 20 SECONDS I'D GUESS, AND LESS THAN 1/4 MILE I THINK. JUST FORTUNATE THERE WERE NO CARS COMING IN EITHER DIRECTION. I AM ALIVE TO TELL THIS STORY. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A DEALER AND AM AWAITING TO HEAR WHAT THE HAVE TO SAY. I AM PETRIFIED AT THE THOUGHT OF GETTING BACK IN TO THAT CAR.

I OWNED A 2008 PRIUS WITH 273,453 MILES WHEN I TRADED IT FOR A 2018 PRIUS ON 3/15/18. MY 2008 NEVER HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED; MEANWHILE, THE 2018 HAS BEEN REPLACED ONCE AND THE 2ND IS NOW CRACKED WITHIN 2 MONTHS OF REPLACEMENT. ON 8/7/18 I WAS DRIVING IN A SINGLE LANE ROAD WITH NO VEHICLES AHEAD OR IN THE ONCOMING DIRECTION WHEN I HEARD A POP. WITHIN 5 MINUTES A CRACK BEGAN AT THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD AND EXTENDED ABOUT 9' UPWARDS AND TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE BY THE END OF THE DAY. NEXT MORNING THE CRACK WAS 17' LONG, AND BY THE 3RD DAY THE CRACK WAS 26'. AFTER THAT THE CRACK SEEMS TO STABILIZE. ON 10/9/18 I WAS DRIVING ON I-95N HEARD ANOTHER POP AND A 2ND CRACK BEGAN TO FORM. THERE WERE NO VEHICLES IN FRONT OF ME WHEN I HEARD A POP. AN ADDITIONAL CRACK STARTED THAT CURVED FROM THE DRIVER SIDE AND EXTENDED 14' FROM THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD 3' FROM THE OLD CRACK TOWARDS THE DRIVER SIDE. THE 2ND CRACK AFFECTED MY VISION SO I HAD HAVE IT REPLACED IMMEDIATELY. ON 11/2/18 I HAD THE OEM WINDSHIELD REPLACED FOR $250 (DEDUCTIBLE) PLUS $477 (TOYOTA CAMERA RECALIBRATION). ON 12/19/18 I HEARD A POP WHILE AT A STOP SIGN AND THE NEW WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED A CRACK FROM THE BASE OF THE GLASS EXTENDING UPWARDS 4' THEN CURVED TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR ANOTHER 7.5' BY THE END OF THE DAY. THE NEXT DAY THE CRACK CURVED UP AND TO THE RIGHT SIDE FOR ANOTHER 7.25'. BY THE 3RD DAY, IT GREW ANOTHER 12' UPWARDS. ON 1/29/19 A SECOND CRACK FORMED NEAR THE INITIAL CRACK AT 3' HIGHER FROM THE BASE. THIS CRACK EXTENDED FOR 12' TOWARDS THE DRIVER SIDE. SO NOW I AM FACED WITH REPLACING THE WINDSHIELD AGAIN; INCURRING THE COSTS AND INCONVENIENCE. GIVEN THE FACT THERE WERE NO VEHICLE AROUND WHEN THE CRACKS HAVE REPEATED APPEARED I FEEL THAT THIS IS A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT AND NOT A FACTOR OF MY DRIVING.

NEW CAR JUST OVER 1000 MILES. REAR TIRE BLOWS ON FREEWAY, NO POTHOLE OR ANYTHING HIT. SINCE OWNING THE CAR I'VE HEARD A FAINT THUDDING WHEN GOING OVER 65 MILES AN HOUR. NO INDICATOR LIGHT AND THE TIRES FELT HARD, NOT DEFLATED WHEN I CHECKED. SO I THOUGHT IT MIGHT JUST BE AN UNEVEN ROAD MAKING THAT SOUND. NOW I BELIEVE IT WAS THE TIRE. I HAVE TONS OF PHOTOS IF NEEDED. I FISHTAILED ON THE FREEWAY AND WAS CLOSE ENOUGH TO AN EXIT THAT I GOT OFF ON IT. LUCKILY DID NOT CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

LAST YEAR,JUNE 2017, WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED WE NOTICED THERE WAS A HAIRLINE CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD. WE RECEIVED SOME QUOTES SAYING IT WOULD BE ABOUT $900 TO FIX. SO WE DECIDED TO GO WITH AN ADHESIVE INJECTION AND PAID ABOUT $50 FOR SOMEONE TO COME FIX IT. HOWEVER, AFTER A MONTH, IT SPREAD. WE HAD NO CHOICE BUT TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD. LAST MONTH, SAME THING HAPPENED. CAR WAS PARKED, NOTHING HIT IT. SAME HAIRLINE CRACK. I HAVEN'T FIXED IT BECAUSE OF THE HEAVY EXPENSE. BUT IT HAS SPREAD. CHECKED ONLINE TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAS THE SAME ISSUE AND FOUND THERE'S A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR THIS BUT IT'S FOR 2014-2016 TOYOTA PRIUS. APPARENTLY THEY HAVE NOT FIXED THIS PROBLEM FOR THE 2017 PRIUS. ALSO, THERE'S A RECALL FOR MY CAR FOR ANOTHER ISSUE.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN THE RAIN AT 55MPH A VERY SMALL PEBBLE/BUG STRUCK THE LOWER RIGHT WINDSHIELD BELOW THE WIPER. IT WAS NOT VERY LOUD, BUT DID CREATE A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD WITH A FEW MINUTES. WITHIN A FEW DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD.

HORRIBLE BACK PAIN CAUSED BY THE PRIUS' DRIVER SEAT. CAR SEAT SHOULD NOT PASS STANDARDS. EXTREMELY UNHEALTHY.

CONNECT THE PHONE TO STEREO, ACTIVATE DEVICE ASSISTANT, PHONE CALL OR PLAY AUDIO FROM THE DEVICE THROUGH STEREO. THE STEREO WILL REBOOT. THIS HAS OCCURRED A NUMBER OF TIMES DURING THE FIRST COUPLE WEEKS OF OWNERSHIP. DOESN'T MATTER IF VEHICLE IS IN MOTION OR NOT.

THIS IS A BRAND NEW CAR I PURCHASED. THERE IS A HIGH-PITCHED NOISE THAT THE BRAKE PEDAL MAKES WHEN YOU DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. I THOUGHT THIS WAS PART OF THE BEEPS THE CAR MAKES, BUT IT'S NOT. THE BRAKE BOOSTER WAS REPLACED, BUT THE BRAKE PEDAL CONTINUES TO MAKE A HIGH-PITCHED CHIRPING NOISE. I RETURNED TO TOYOTA SERVICE TO HAVE IT CHECKED OUT, BUT THEY SAID THAT THIS IS A NORMAL SOUND THAT OTHER PRIUSES MAKE. THIS CONCERNS ME THAT THE BRAKES ARE DEFECTIVE SINCE I'VE NEVER HEARD OF BRAKES THAT SOUND LIKE THIS.

BACK UP ALARM TOO LOUD, THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. FACT IT IS SO LOUD YOU CAN NOT HEAR THE REAR CROSS-TRAFFIC ALERT OR ANY PERSON OUTSIDE THE CAR YELLING. TOYOTA NEEDS TO EITHER DEVELOP A METHOD SO THE OWNER CAN ADJUST THE BACKUP ALARM VOLUME OR HAVE THE DEALER TURN DOWN THE VOLUME FREE OF CHARGE.

WHEN USING IPHONE WITH BLUETOOTH RANDOM SONGS PLAY WHILE DIRECTIONAL NAVIGATION PROMPTS PLAY (SEE HTTP://OSXDAILY.COM/2017/07/29/STOP-AUTOPLAYING-MUSIC-IPHONE-CAR-BLUETOOTH/). THIS CREATES DRIVER DISTRACTION. THE PROBLEM IS MORE-SO WITH APPLE IOS RATHER THAN THE PRIUS IN PARTICULAR.

THE GEAR WOULD SHIFT EITHER FROM 'DRIVE TO NEUTRAL' OR 'REVERSE TO NEUTRAL' THIS HAPPENED MORE THAN 10 TIMES WHEN I HAD MY SISTER, MOTHER, AND FATHER IN THE CAR. 1) IT HAPPENED WHEN I WAS PULLING OUT OF THE GARAGE (ABOUT 20 DEGREE ANGEL) GOING UP THE HILL. I WENT TO PICK THEM UP, ALL 3 PF THEM WENT IN. I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND GEAR ON DRIVE, WHEN I LET GO OF THE BRAKE THE GEAR SHIFTED AUTOMATICALLY ON NEUTRAL. AFTER, 3 TRIES, THE CAR FINALLY WAS ABLE TO GO FORWARD WITHOUT STRUGGLE. 2) I WAS TRYING TO BACK IN ONE OF THE SPOT (FLAT GROUND), FOOT ON THE BRAKE, GEAR ON REVERSED. WHEN I LET GO OF THE BRAKE THE GEAR SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AUTOMATICALLY. I STRUGGLED FOR 3-4 TIMES BEFORE THE WAS ABLE TO HOLD ON REVERSED AND PARK THE CAR SAFELY. 3) WHEN I WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION (FLAT GROUND). I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE, WHEN I FINALLY WAS ABLE TO MAKE A TURN, MY FOOT ON THE FOOT AND GEAR ON DRIVE, WHEN I LET GO OF THE BRAKE THE GEAR SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL OF THE THE SUDDEN, I HAD TO TRY 3-4 TIMES BEFORE IT WAS ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD WITHOUT A STRUGGLE 5) I WAS ON A HILL (ABOUT 20-30 DEGREE ANGLE) FACING UP. MY FOOT WAS ON THE BRAKE AND GEAR ON DRIVE, WHEN I LET GO OF THE BRAKE THE GEAR WAS SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL. I STRUGGLED FOR 5-10 MINUTES (GOING FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL BACK IN FORTH) AS MY CAR WAS NOT ABLE TO HOLD DRIVE MODE, I EVENTUALLY ASKED MY FAMILY TO GET OUT OF THE CAR AS I WAS GETTING WORRIED AND FRUSTRATED, MY FAMILY WAS OUT OF THE CAR BUT I WAS STILL STRUGGLING, IN THE PROCESS I HIT A CAR BEHIND ME. 6) I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO PARK THE CAR IN WITH ANY PASSENGERS AND SOMEWHERE FLAT GROUND. I LEFT MY CAR FOR 30 MINUTES AND CAME TO DRIVE MY CAR. I STARTED MY CAR, I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND GEAR ON DRIVE. I LET GO OF THE BRAKE THEN MY GEAR SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL AGAIN, I STRUGGLED FOR 3-4 TIMES BEFORE THE CAR WAS ABLE TO HOLD ON DRIVE