JM1BL1L7XD18349712013 MAZDA Mazda3Touring/GS

The Brake Pedal consistently malfunctions, even after the replacement of the master cylinder (by independent service center). The master cylinder does not hold pressure due to a faulty ABS control unit (which, when Mazda was contacted, said that part was on backorder until September). If the manufacturer knows this is an issue and can't supply the part due to so many replacements needed in their vehicle, why is there no recall? There is no warning to the driver on the dashboard of this issue and has causes repeated issues while breaking.

There seems to be a lot of people who own 2012 and 2013 Mazda 3 Sedans (with SKYACTIV-G 2.0L and Halogen Type Headlights) that are dealing with the same issue I am dealing with myself. I have just purchased a used 2013 Mazda 3 with Skyactive Technology and I noticed that when I was braking the headlights would pulse on and off and would continue while I braked. I have been told there is a TSB on this issue (attached) and Mazda is well aware of this happening. This concern is caused by inadequate alternator output controlled by the PCM when the battery is under a heavy load. They are to the point now of charging people for a doing the TSB on the car that is causing the problem of the alternator not producing the proper wattage to support both the headlights and the brake lights at the same time. There are numerous online forum entries that speak of this issue with 2012 and 2013 Mazda 3's. I am very concerned that my headlights may stop working which could result in my death or the death of my occupants of my vehicle not to mention the other motorists on the road around me if my head lights were to eventually fail at night due to lack of proper wattage to the headlights. There are videos on you tube that show these pulsing headlights on Mazda's. I believe that headlights are important enough safety issue that their failing could result in death if the headlights completely failed due to the known fault in these vehicles over time.

Transmission Control Module malfunction. The AT light came on and the car made a jerking motion and a clunking noise. It lost power and would not shift which is very dangerous in moving traffic. It put me at risk for getting hit by another vehicle not expecting the abrupt change in speed by my vehicle. The check engine light is now lit up. There were no warning lights before the vehicle’s transmission malfunctioned. A code came up on the vehicle when tested. U0101 lost communication with TCM. From what I have read, researched, and have been told this issue is very common for certain years of Mazda 3’s including mine.

The contact owns a 2013 Mazda Mazda3. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V644000 (Structure) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was contacted, and the contact was informed that the part for the recall repair was not yet available. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

All my seatbuckels are tearing. I thought it could of been my dog, but I a certain I did not give up my seat or let him drive. My driver side is also tearing. I noticed the buckle catching when securing it, and now it has moved past snag and had a quarter inch tear that it catches on. The buckle is not wide enough for the belt. The belt is no longer able to constraint as good as when it was whole. Unknown

After filing up the gas tank, there is a strong smell of fuel coming from the car. It remains strong until the tank is run down to about 3/4. Gas can be seen dripping down the tank under the car. Gas drips are clearly visible on the ground. This has been an ongoing problem for approximately two years.

Steering becomes unpredictable and stiff accompanied by surging and loss of power. Check engine light comes on. Code P0882

ABS Module suddenly start failing causing brake sinks down. Almost crashed because of it. It appears to be a very common issue but Mazda still does not recall these ABS modules made by Ford/ATE. Also, it does not show any ABS warning light, which might be why not many people have called on this as they probably thought it was normal. There is all sort of communication error codes if you read with a OBDII scanner. In fact, Ford had a recall for these ABS modules, citing "stuck or slow-responding valves due to reaction with brake fluid".

I had the dashboard recalled and replaced. The new dashboard is separating from the computer screen on dash.

TRACKING NUMBER 11461728 ADDED INFORMATION EMAIL FROM MANUFACTURE MITSUBUSHI ELECTRIC INCORPORATED

The TCM - Transmission Control Module defected - gear lights disappear, down shifting problems, driving, stop in the middle of highway or road while driving, kick / jerk when ATF lights comes on goes off then check engine lights comes on all fluids has been changed drove good for a few days started again took to advance auto parts and auto zone codes stated electrical TCM computer issues, delayed shifting, check engine and ATF lights comes on , DTC codes U1000, LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM. The TCM overheats because it is sitting directly on the transmission, under the battery box. My child safety was put at risk daily. This car fails to stop at a traffic light, a slow response when approaching a stop sign or traffic light is dangerous and scary. Mazda's are not safe to drive with a bad TCM, When a driver cannot anticipate the acceleration or deceleration of this vehicle or any Mazda with a TCM the situation is very dangerous. I visited Flow Mazda 04/21/2022 Fayetteville North Carolina invoice number Q10296 took the part for viewing. THE dealership informed us that no one has this part and do not know if the will ever have another shipment. we contacted salvage yards received the same answer. I have sent 8 emails stating problems to the manufacture (Mitsubishi electric company) no response thus far. This is my daughter first year in college she saved her summer money 6600.00$ and purchased this car in March 16, 2022 from Knox auto sales 107 NC-55E, Dunn NC 28334. First day we had all fluids changed. The third day she went to visit her dad 20 minute drive ATF light came on went to auto zone code warning electrical communication, purchased new battery drove car for 5 days good took car to college in Charlotte came home birthday Friday check engine light and TCM code went to church Easter Sunday almost didn't make it home. According to the you tube channels and social media this is a known failure for Mazda automobiles Why are the cars being sold?

Blower motor stopped working summer of 2020. Had it replaced at the dealership and it again stopped working in summer of 2021. Had it replaced once again and it is now making horrible noises again as it did right before it blew up the last two times

When driving at highway speeds and applying brakes, the headlights will pulse bright to dim for the duration of braking. I have seen this problem reported online by several dealers and it has a known software update to fix the problem, but it is not listed under the recalls for this vehicle. A similar problem exists on the 2014 Mazda's and a recall does exist for that vehicle.

There is a loud winding sound sound coming from the transmission and sound of metal (broken teeth) as well. We took it to a Mazda dealer and they quickly identified the issue as a failing transmission. As a result I was able to find that a service bulletin aligned with this issue (TSB No. 0500414) and confirmed this with the dealer. This service bulletin indicates a manufacturing issue but only applied a warranty of 6 years or 60,000 miles. Yes, our car is over the 6 yrs and only 800 miles over the 60,000 miles, however, my concern is that this is a known issue that clearly becomes a safety issue. We got a price from the dealer of $4,500 for a new transmission so I took it to a transmission shop for a 2nd opinion. They confirmed the failing transmission and indicated the car should not be driven for safety reasons. They said the transmission is in bad shape and when it fails the car will just stop creating a very unsafe condition. They are able to find a used transmission and install it for an estimate of $2,700 but I believe this should be covered by Mazda due to the safety concerns. I have no choice to proceed with this replacement but hope that you can help to get Mazda's attention and have them stand behind this and cover this cost.

EXACT SAME ISSUE AS CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 17V082 THE SEATS IN THIS YEAR OF MAZDA 3 ARE THE SAME AS IN THE 2010-2011 MODELS. THE METAL HAS SNAPPED IN HALF CAUSING THE NEED FOR REPAIR FOR SAFE DRIVING. THIS HAPPENED WHILE TURNING A CORNER ON A CITY STREET GOING ABOUT 30KM/H DRIVER IS 260LBS

THE INSTRUMENT PANEL HAS COME LOOSE, AND THERE IS A OPENING, THE INSIDE OF IT IS CHIPPED AS WELL AND IT IS FOGGY. JUST NORMAL DRIVING TO AND FROM WORK. MAZDA OFFERED A SPECIAL SERVICE WARRANTY, WHICH MY CAR DID NOT QUALIFY BECAUSE THIS GAP HAD NOT OCCURRED YET. CONVENIENTLY, THE EXTENSION EXPIRED BEFORE MY PANEL STARTED COMING APART. I SPOKE WITH MAZDA TODAY AND THEY TOLD ME I WAS TO LATE. WELL I WAS INELIGIBLE BECAUSE IT HADN'T COME APART YET. APPARENTLY THEY ARE AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AS THEY DID OFF A SPECIAL WARRANTY FOR IT. ALL MODELS THAT HAD THESE DEFECTIVE PANELS OR BAD ADHESIVE FROM THE SAME LOT REGARDLESS IF THEY HAD STARTED TO COME APART YET, SHOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACED SO THIS WOULDN'T HAPPEN. I UNDERSTAND NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR. IF THIS IS JUST CHOCKED UP TO NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR THE REST OF THE INTERIOR SHOULD ALSO BE FALLING APART, BECAUSE THE WHOLE CAR HAS BEEN SUBJECTED TO THE SAME ENVIRONMENT AND THAT IS NOT FALLING APART YET. I AM ONE PERSON, WITH ONE VOICE MAYBE OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO WERE DENIED ELIGIBILITY TO HAVE THIS INSTRUMENT PANEL REPLACED, WILL ALSO COMPLAIN AND SOMETHING CAN HAPPEN TO FIX THIS MANUFACTURER PROBLEM. AS THIS IS NOT A PART THAT SHOULD HAVE PASSED QUALITY CONTROL. DATE IS APPROXIMATE AS IT OCCURRED GRADUALLY OVER TIME AND DID NOT BECOME NOTICEABLE UNTIL LATE LAST YEAR.

WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE HEADLIGHTS DIM AND FLICKER UNTIL THE BRAKE PEDAL IS RELEASED. NIGHTTIME VIABILITY IS SUBSTANTIALLY DIMINISHED WHEN APPLYING THE BREAKS AND FLICKERING SEAMS TO SEND A SIGNAL TO OTHER VEHICLES IN FRONT OF ME. THIS DEFECT OCCURS 100% OF THE TIME WHEN APPLYING THE BEAKS AT NIGHT WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ON.

WHEN YOU PRESS ON THE BRAKES ALL THE VEHICLES LIGHTS FLASHING FROM BRIGHT TO DEEM THE HEADLIGHTS, INSIDE PANEL LIGHTS FLASHING FROM BRIGHT TO DEEM MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO SEE AT NIGHT IT ACTS LIKE CAR IS LOSING POWER

ONGOING PROBLEM - REPORTED BY OTHERS IN MANY FORUMS. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED. DURING BREAKING HEADLIGHTS PULSE BRIGHTER AND DIMMER

I HAVE HAD MY CAR SINCE 2013 AND HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH IT UNTIL I GOT A NEW BATTERY FOR MY CAR. AS SOON AS I GOT A BATTERY MY CAR WOULD DIE EVERY OTHER DAY. I TOOK IT TO MANY MECHANICS AND BACK TO THE MAZDA DEALER TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIX IT. THE MECHANICS DIDN'T KNOW WHAT WAS WRONG WITH IT AND WHEN I TOOK IT TO MAZDA THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE MY CAR DOOR LIGHT WAS ON, EVEN THOUGH IT NEVER WAS. THEY CLAIMED THEY FIXED IT AND TWO DAYS LATER MY CAR WAS DEAD AGAIN. EVERY MECHANIC AND THE MAZDA DEALER SAID NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR AND THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT WAS HAPPENING. THE VEHICLE SITS NOW BECAUSE I CAN'T KEEP CALLING MY INSURANCE COMPANY EVERY OTHER DAY TO COME OUT AND JUMP START MY CAR FOR ME.

MY MAZDA 3 SEDAN WITH A 6 MT HAS AN ISSUE WHILE COASTING IN 4TH GEAR BETWEEN 25-40 MPH AND ACCELERATING UP HILL THAT THE GEAR WILL JUMP INTO NEUTRAL WITHOUT DEPRESSION OF THE CLUTCH. THERE IS NO GRINDING OR OTHER ODD NOISES OTHER THAN THE SHIFTER SNAPPING OUT OF GEAR. THIS HAPPENS OFTEN ENOUGH THAT I HAVE BEGUN TO SKIP THE GEAR ENTIRELY.

I PURCHASED A 2013 MAZDA 3 IN MARCH OR 2020 WITH ABOUT 35000MILES. ABOUT TWO MONTHS LATER I PUT DOWN MY BACK SEATS FOR THE FIRST TIME AND NOTICED THE MIDDLE SEAT BUCKLE WAS FRINGED AND LOOKED CUT ABOUT A HALF OF INCH IN. IT COULD NOT RETRACT DUE TO THE BUCKLE SNAGGING ON THE CUT. IT IS NOVEMBER 2020 AND I HAVE NOW DESCOVERES THAT THIS SAME THING HAS HAPPENED TO THE DRIVER AND FRONT PASSENGER BUCKLES AS WELL. I RARELY HAVE ANYONE IN MY BACK SEAT, MAYBE TWICE SINCE THE PURCHASE, SO THE BUCKLES ARE NOT FREQUENTLY USED. I THINK SOMETHING IS CUTTING THE BELT CAUSING THE BUCKLES TO STOP RETRACTING- RENDERING THEM USELESS. MY CAR HAS 49000MILES NOW. I DISCOVERED ALL OF THE BELTS WHILE STATIONARY. BUT THE DRIVERS ONE WOULD NOT RETRACT CAUSING ME TO LOOK FOR IT.

LIGHTING:WHEN APPLYING BREAKS, HEADLIGHTS FLICKER. WINDSHIELD: LEAKS. ADHESIVE EXPANDED, CAUSING SEAL TO BREAK. WATER POURS IN ON DASH FROM SIDE DURING BAD WEATHER CONDITIONS OR CAR WASH. ADHESIVE ALSO EXPANDED ON GAUGE PANEL, CAUSING DISPLAY WINDOW TO LIFT. WAS THIS WAY WHEN PURCHASED. DID NOT NOTICE HEADLIGHTS AND WINDOW SEAL AT TIME OF PURCHASE.

DESCRIPTION THIS VEHICLE EXHIBITS THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKERING WHEN THE VEHICLE IS DECELERATING (BY APPLYING THE BRAKES) WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON. THIS CONCERN IS CAUSED BY INADEQUATE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT (CONTROLLED BY THE PCM) WHEN THE BATTERY IS UNDER HEAVY LOAD. TO CORRECT THE PROBLEM, THE CONTROL LOGIC OF THE PCM HAS BEEN CHANGED. MAZDA WILL NOT UPDATE THE PCM WITHOUT CHARGING CUSTOMERS A DIAGNOSTIC AND REPROGRAMMING FEE IN THE US.

SOMETIMES THE SHIFTER JUMPS OUT OF 3RD GEAR OVER A ROAD BUMP WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER DECELERATION AT 30-40 MPH. IT ALWAYS HAPPENS WHILE CITY/SUBURB DRIVING. IT'S STARTLING WHEN IT HAPPENS AND I TRY TO QUICKLY PUT THE CAR BACK IN A GEAR. IT WASN'T HAPPENING THAT FREQUENTLY BUT NOW IT'S ABOUT 1X/MONTH. THIS FIRST HAPPENED A FEW YEARS AGO.

WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT, AND APPLYING THE BRAKES TO SLOW DOWN, THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS FLICKER/PULSE. OVER THE LAST 6-12 MONTHS THIS ISSUE HAS BECOME MORE PRONOUNCED SO THAT IT HAS BEGUN REDUCING VISIBILITY. PLUS, NEARBY CARS ARE DISTRACTED, EVIDENTLY THINKING WE ARE IN DISTRESS. WE BELIEVE THIS CREATES AN ADDITIONAL TRAFFIC HAZARD. NOTE: INITIALLY, THE PROBLEM WAS ONLY NOTICEABLE WHEN SLOWING FROM AN INITIAL SPEED OF ABOUT 25-40MPH. NOW IT SEEMS TO HAVE ADVANCED TO HAPPEN AT ANY SPEED ABOVE ABOUT 25MPH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 20-60 MPH, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKERED WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND THE VEHICLE BECAME DIFFICULT TO DRIVE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO REFERRED THE CONTACT TO A LOCAL DEALER. THE CONTACT CALLED SMITH HAVEN MAZDA (827 JERICHO TURNPIKE, ST JAMES, NY 11780, 631) 724-4070) AND MAZDA 112 (2112 NY-112, MEDFORD, NY 11763, (631) 256-1074), BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND PROVIDED REFERENCE NUMBER: 1-2451813550 THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 78,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHILE DECELERATING. ESPECIALLY BAD WHEN BRAKING. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A LONG TIME, JUST DECIDED NOW TO REPORT IT. I SEE A LOT OF COMPLAINTS FOR THE SAME ISSUE ONLINE.

WHILE COASTING, APPLICATION OF THE BRAKES WILL MAKE THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER. AN ECU VOLTAGE MONITOR REGISTERS A DROP IN THE VOLTAGE THAT LASTS FOR AS LONG AS THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHICH IS APPROXIMATELY 3 SECONDS. MAZDA IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND APPARENTLY A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE ECU WILL SOLVE IT. THEY OFFERED THIS FOR FREE UNDER THE 6YR/60K MILE WARRANTY BUT APPARENTLY DID NOT TELL THEIR CUSTOMERS.

THE DRIER SEAT BELT IS NOT CLICKING AND SENSOR FOR SEAT BELT IS OFF

IF THE LIFT GATE FALLS UNEXPECTEDLY, IT MAY HIT THE USER, INCREASING THEIR RISK OF INJURY. THIS IS A CURRENT RECALL ON OTHER MODELS BUT IS NOT CURRENTLY LISTED FOR MY VEHICLE. IT DEFINITELY EFFECTS MY CAR AND WOULD LIKE MY MODEL ADDED TO THE CURRENT RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE POWER STEERING WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE POWER STEERING ABILITY WAS LOST. ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS FLASHED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED, IT RESUMED NORMAL OPERATION; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED AT LEAST TEN TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER OR AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

THE SEAT LIFTER LINK ON MY 2013 MAZDA 3 POWER SEAT HAS A BROKEN WELD THAT ALLOWS THE DRIVERS SEAT TO WOBBLE FRONT TO BACK. THE WELD HAS OPENED UP SHOWING THE MOTOR SHAFT. WHEN YOU ACCELERATE THE SEAT MOVES BACK AND FEELS LIKE IT WILL SEPARATE FROM THE FRAME. CALLED LOCAL MAZDA DEALER AND THEY HAVE NO RECALL ON THIS AND MY WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER THIS. VEHICLE HAS 187,400 MILES. FOUND ONLINE THAT THERE WAS A PREVIOUS ISSUE IN THE 2010 - 2011 VEHICLES. MAZDA HAD A RECALL CAMPAIGN 0917B FOR THAT ISSUE. APPARENTLY THERE IS STILL AN ISSUE WITH DEFECTIVE WELDS IN THE SEAT FRAME. FIRST NOTICED THIS CONDITION AFTER ACCELERATING TO ENTER THE INTERSTATE HIGHWAY. HAS GOTTEN WORSE IN THE LAST TWO WEEKS.

WHEN I HIT THE BRAKES, THE LIGHT FLASH ALMOST AS IF IT FLASHING MY BRIGHT LIGHT, NO MATTER WHERE OR HOW FAST OR SLOW I'M DRIVING.

MY HEADLIGHTS DIM AND FLICKER, MOST NOTICEABLY WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES. IT WAS BARELY NOTICABLE AT FIRST. MY SON-IN-LAW, WHO IS AN AUTO AND DIESEL MECHANIC, BROUGHT IT TO MY ATTENTION IN DECEMBER 2017 WHEN HE WAS DRIVING IT. IT IS GETTING WORSE AND BECOMING MORE AND MORE OF A PROBLEM, MAKING IT HARD TO SEE, ESPECIALLY WHEN APPROACHING A STOP AT AN INTERSECTION. I AM NOT SURE IF THE TAIL LIGHTS ARE ALSO EFFECTED, BUT COMPLAINT ID 11164134 REPORTED THAT THEIR'S WERE. MY EXPERIENCE WITH ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS CAUSES ME TO WORRY THAT THERE IS A POSSIBILITY THAT THE HEADLIGHTS WILL FAIL ENTIRELY, LEAVING ME UNABLE TO SEE WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT. THIS IS NOT A SINGLE INCIDENT; IT ALWAYS OCCURS EVERYTIME I DRIVE AT NIGHT, SO I AM PUTTING TODAY'S DATE IN THE "WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN" FIELD BECAUSE I CAN'T INDICATE THAT IT IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM. THE FOUR COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS SAME PROBLEM ALL INDICATE NO INJURIES OR FATALITIES; I HOPE THERE DON'T HAVE TO BE INJURIES OR FATALITIES FOR THIS TO BE CONSIDERED SERIOUS ENOUGH TO WARRANT A RECALL. ALSO, THE SPEED DOESN'T MATTER, I HAD TO PUT IN A NUMBER SO I INDICATED 45 MPH, BUT IT HAPPENS ON THE FREEWAY AT 80 MPH AS WELL AS ON CITY STREETS. THERE ARE CURRENTLY 49,259 MILES ON THE CAR. WHEN I BOUGHT IT IT HAD 33,370 MILES ON IT. LIKE I SAID, IT IS GETTING WORSE. IT IS MORE DISTRACTING DUE TO MORE PRONOUNCED FLICKERING AND DIMMING OF THE ILLUMINATION OF THE ROAD.

WHILE DRIVING THE POWER STEERING MALFUNCTIONS THE RADIO DISPLAY KEEP RESTARTING AND THE POWER STEERING GOES OUT, AND THEN THE VEHICLE POWERS COMPLETELY DOWN WHILE DRIVING. I HAVE LOOKED IN FORUMS AND THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN OCCURRING AT LEAST SINCE 2004, AND HAS NOT BEEN FIXED! HTTPS://WWW.FOXNEWS.COM/US/MAZDA-TO-RECALL-MAZDA3-AND-MAZDA5-TO-ADDRESS-LOSS-OF-POWER-STEERING THERE IS AN OLD ARTICLE THAT MAZDA 3'S HAVE BEEN RECALLED FOR THIS EXACT ISSUE, BUT THE ISSUE APPARENTLY HAS ACTUALLY NEVER BEEN FIXED. SEE THE ATTACHED DOCUMENT, DO I NEED GET AN ATTORNEY TO GET THIS FIXED SINCE MY CAR IS 2013 AND THE ISSUES ARE ONLY BEING ADDRESSED IN LATER MODELS? CLEARLY THEY DIDN'T FIX THE ISSUE IF NEWER MODELS END UP WITH THE SAME ISSUE. THIS NEEDS TO BE RECALLED IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED WITH THIS AND IT WILL KEEP FROM BUYING MAZDA EVER AGAIN DUE THE EXTREEM NEGLECT ON THIS ISSUE BY MAZDA, IT SHOWS A HUGE LACK OF INTEGRITY.

HEADLIGHTS AND BRAKE LIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED. MY WIFE WAS STOPPED BY A POLICE MAN TO INFORM HER OF THESE CONDITIONS.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKING.

WHEN DRIVING WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON AND I BEGIN TO SLOW DOWN, WHETHER COASTING OR USING THE BRAKE, MY HEADLIGHTS WILL FLICKER REALLY BAD. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN ALL THE TIME BUT IT HAPPENS 90% OF THE TIME. THERE ARE TIMES THEY FLICKER BAD ENOUGH THAT IT LOOKS LIKE I AM FLASHING MY HIGHBEAMS. I HAVE HAD TO PULL OVER MULTIPLE TIMES BECAUSE OF HOW HARD IT MADE IT TO CONCENTRATE ON THE SURROUNDING AREA. I CAN ONLY IMAGINE WHAT ITS LIKE FOR SOMEONE IN FRONT OF ME OR DRIVING TOWARDS ME. SOMETIMES THEY WILL ALSO FLASH A FEW TIMES WHEN I COME TO A COMPLETE STOP. IVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER I BOUGHT IT FROM AND THEY CONTINUE TO SAY NOTHING IS WRONG. SO IT IS STILL AN ONGOING PROBLEM FROM THE DAY I BOUGHT IT.

I WAS DRIVING AND THE DRIVERS SEAT SNAPPED ON THE BACK RIGHT CORNER. SORT OF POPPED AND DROPPED DOWN A BIT. I CAN PHYSICALLY MOVE THE SEAT UP AND DOWN WITH MY HANDS. I BELIEVE IT'S THE SAME PROBLEM AS THE 2010-2011 MODEL RECALL.

WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE THE PRESSURE ON THE BREAK PEDAL GOT VERY LOW. I HAD TO PUSH THE PEDAL ALL THE WAY DOWN TO SLOW DOWN THE VEHICLE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A NEARBY MAZDA DEALERSHIP. AFTER A COUPLE OF DAYS THEY TOLD ME THAT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE BREAKS PER SAY (PADS, ROTORS, ETC,), BUT THAT THE ABS HYDRAULIC AND THE MASTER CYLINDER HAD BOTH FAILED CAUSING THE LACK OF PRESSURE ON THE BREAK PEDAL. THE TECHNICIAN TOLD ME THIS WAS QUITE UNUSUAL AND THAT HAD NEVER SEEN THAT BEFORE ON A MAZDA PARTICULARLY WITH ONLY 52,000 MILES. HE TOLD ME THE CAR WAS DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. I'M THANKFUL THAT I DID NOT GET INTO A CAR ACCIDENT AND HURT MYSELF NOR ANYONE ELSE. THE VEHICLE STILL UNDER WARRANTY FOR THE POWER TRAIN PARTS, BUT THE DEALERSHIP INFORMED THAT MAZDA WOULD NOT COVER FOR THE REPAIRS. I WAS QUOTED $1,617 FOR THE REPAIRS AND I HAVE BEEN WITHOUT THE VEHICLE FOR 4 DAYS. I BEEN TOLD THAT I WOULD GET A LOANER AS SOON AS ONE IS AVAILABLE. GIVEN THAT THIS WAS NOT WEAR AND TEAR, I BELIEVE MAZDA SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE REPAIRS OF THE VEHICLE AND MAKE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO ISSUES WITH THESE PARTS IN OTHER VEHICLES THAT COULD CAUSE SOMEONE TO GET HURT.

THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHEN BRAKING OR IN PARKED. DRIVERS SEAT WOBBLES/ROCKS/SHIFTS WHILE DRIVING MAKING IT DANGEROUS.

2013 MAZDA 3. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO HEADLIGHT CONDENSATION. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE HEADLIGHTS WERE REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. *JS

IN THE PAST 6 MONTHS, MY CAR BATTERY HAS DIED 3 ON SEPARATE OCCASIONS. WHETHER IT'S A COLD START OR I'VE DRIVEN SOMEWHERE AND TURNED THE CAR OFF. NO RESTART, BATTERY DEAD. EACH TIME I'VE HAD TO CALL A SERVICE FOR A JUMP AND HAVE TAKEN IT TO A LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE WHERE TESTS HAVE BEEN PERFORMED ON THE BATTERY, ALTERNATOR AND STARTER ... NOTHING FOUND WRONG EACH TIME. THE LAST TIME THE CAR WOULDN'T START, I HAVE PUSH BUTTON START. EVEN THOUGH THE BATTERY WAS DEAD, THE PUSH BUTTON WAS STUCK IN THE 'CAR RUNNING' POSITION, MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE CAR DEALERSHIP HAD NO CLUE WHY THIS HAPPENED OR IF IT WOULD HAPPEN AGAIN.

CLICKING NOSIE IN THE REAR END OF CAR.

CAR'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WILL CUT OUT WITHOUT WARNING. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON THE INTERSTATE. THE RADIO SHUTS DOWN, THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE IS LOST, AND POWER STEERING GOES. SEVERAL SENSOR LIGHTS COME ON. I HAVE TO FIGHT TO GET THE CAR TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND THEN TURN THE CAR OFF. WHEN RESTARTED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON BUT THE CAR WORKS FINE. THIS WILL ALSO HAPPEN WHEN THE CAR IS IDLING WITH THE SAME LOSS OF POWER. I TURN THE CAR OFF AND THEN BACK ON AND IT WORKS OKAY AGAIN. THIS HAPPENED IN A VERY MOUNTAINOUS PASS RECENTLY AND THERE WERE NO SHOULDERS TO PULL OVER ON AND I HAD NO POWER STEERING OR ACCELERATION. I'VE TAKEN TO SEVERAL MECHANICS AND THEY CANNOT FIND THE ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED AT NIGHT, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKERED AND FLASHED WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS APPLIED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO MAXON HYUNDAI MAZDA (2329 US 22, UNION, NJ 07083). THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE FAILURE WAS A KNOWN ISSUE, BUT THERE WAS NO RECALL AND THE WARRANTY EXPIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS ALSO TAKEN TO CRYSTAL MAZDA (220 RTE 22 WEST, GREENBROOKEE, NJ 08812) WHERE IT WAS ALSO STATED THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO THE DEALER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 96,000.

PCM DOES NOT REGULATE ALTERNATOR OUTPUT CORRECTLY CAUSING THE HEADLIGHTS TO FLASH/STROBE AND HORN TONE TO FLUCTUATE WHILE BRAKING IN MOTION. THE HEADLIGHTS FLASHING COULD LEAD OTHER DRIVERS TO BELIEVE YOU ARE SIGNALING THEM, AND LACK OF POWER TO HORN REDUCES THE AUDIBILITY AND MAY NOT BE HEARD BY OTHER DRIVERS. DEALERSHIP/MAZDA IS AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND HAS PROVIDED A "SOFTWARE UPDATE" TO FIX THE ISSUE, BUT HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL, THUS REQUIRING CONSUMERS TO PAY $60-$100 USD FOR THE UPDATE IF OUT OF WARRANTY. ON NOVEMBER 22TH 2017 I WAS APPROACHING AN INTERSECTION AND WAS BRAKING COMING TO THE RED LIGHT WHEN A VEHICLE ON A SIDE STREET WAVED AT ME AND PULLED OUT IN FRONT OF ME I USED MY HORN OF WHICH FLUCTUATED WITH POWER, I WAS ABLE TO AVOID THE CRASH BUT IT WAS A CLOSE CALL. I SUSPECT THE OTHER VEHICLE THOUGHT MY FLASHING HEADLIGHTS WERE SIGNALING THEM TO "GO AHEAD". I BELIEVE THIS NEEDS TO BE A RECALL AS THIS ISSUE HAS THE POTENTIAL TO CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING AT UNKNOWN SPEEDS, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS APPLIED AND THE HEADLIGHTS FLASHED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT CALLED A LOCAL DEALER (MAZDA KNOXVILLE, 8814 KINGSTON PIKE, KNOXVILLE, TN 37923) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THE SYSTEM NEEDED TO BE UPDATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 134,000.

WHEN DRIVING THE AFFECTED VEHICLES IN HEAVY RAIN OR IN DEEP PUDDLES, THE ALTERNATOR BELT MAY SLIP, CAUSING THE POWER CONTROL MODULE (PCM) TO INCORRECTLY ASSUME FAILURE OF THE CHARGING SYSTEM. ONCE THE PCM ASSUMES THAT THE CHARGING SYSTEM HAS FAILED, THE VEHICLE WILL STOP CHARGING AND COULD RESULT IN POOR ACCELERATION, LOSS OF STEERING ASSIST AND WINDSHIELD WIPER OPERATION, AND A POSSIBLE ENGINE STALL, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH."

I HAVE A 2013 MAZDA 3I 5-DOOR HATCHBACK WITH APPROXIMATELY 61,000 MILES, 90% HIGHWAY DRIVING TO AND FROM WORK. AFTER HAVING THE BATTERY REPLACED (ORIGINAL) EARLIER THIS YEAR, I THEN NOTICED THAT MY HEADLIGHTS WOULD FLASH INTERMITTENTLY, AT THAT TIME. AS THE YEAR PROGRESSED, THE HEADLIGHT FLASHING, WHICH PRESENTS ITSELF ONLY UPON BRAKING OR DECELERATION, BECAME MARKEDLY INCREASED AND BRIGHTER, INCLUDING THE DASHBOARD INFORMATION SYSTEMS WINDOW INSIDE. I WENT TO AN AUTHORIZED MECHANIC, WHO FIRST PUT MY CAR ON DIAGNOSTIC, WHICH SHOWED THAT THE ALTERNATOR WAS VERY WEAK/WORN. SINCE I HAD EXTENDED WARRANTY, THROUGH A PRIVATE COMPANY, BUT ONLY UNTIL 60,000/5 YEARS, I RUSHED TO MAKE TIME FOR THE MECHANIC TO RECEIVE AUTHORIZATION AND REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR, WHICH HE DID, AND MY CAR RUNS GREAT. THERE REMAINS, THOUGH, THE PROBLEM WITH THE HEADLIGHTS FLASHING. SINCE THE MECHANIC DID RESET THE COMPUTER, WE WERE STUMPED. THEN MY HUSBAND FOUND A SERVICE BULLETIN FROM MAZDA DEALING WITH THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE, STATING THAT THE CAR MUST GO TO THE DEALER BECAUSE ONLY THE DEALER CAN RESET ALL THE PARTS OF THE COMPUTER. I THEN CONTACTED MAZDA, BUT HAVE YET TO RECEIVE A RESPONSE. I DO NOT FEEL THAT I SHOULD BE MADE TO PAY FOR THIS ADJUSTMENT/REPAIR SINCE MAZDA APPARENTLY IS WELL AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL CAR. JUST GOOGLE IT, THERE ARE ALOT OF M3 OWNERS OUT THERE WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS, MOST GOT RESOLVED BECAUSE THEY WERE STILL UNDER WARRANTY. GREAT FOR THEM, BUT THAT DOESN'T HELP ME. NOT ONLY IS THIS A PROBLEM FOR ME SINCE I DRIVE NEARLY 40 MILES EACH WAY TO/FROM WORK EACH NIGHT, BUT I AM TIRED OF OTHER DRIVERS FLASHING THEIR LIGHTS AT ME, HONKING, OR YELLING. IT IS MOST ANNOYING, NOT TO MENTION A SAFETY HAZARD, SINCE I AM A NIGHT-TIME/EARLY MORNING DRIVER, PREDOMINANTLY DRIVING IN THE DARK. PLEASE ADVISE.

TAKATA RECALL: ONCE I GOT THE AIRBAG OF MY MAZDA3 IS NOT SAFE, IT WORRIES ME A LOT. I HOPE THE RECALL COULD BE COMING SOON AND I PREFER TO STAYING IN A SAFE ZONE. THANKS!

I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE SUDDEN I NOTICED MY AIRBAG LIGHT BEGAN BLINKING WHILE IN MOTION. I DID NOT BRAKE EXCESSIVELY AND I DID NOT HIT ANYTHING OR SWERVE. IT JIST RANDOMLY LIT UP OUT OF THE BLUE. THEN I NOTICED MY PASSENGER AIRBAG SIGN WAS OFF. I CALLED THE MAZDA DEALER AND THEY QUOTED ME $160 JIST TO DIAGNOSE THE LIGHT. I TOLD THEM I GOT A POSTCARD ABOUT AN AIRBAG RECALL AND THEY INSISTED MY CAR WAS NOT COVERED IN THAT RECALL. IT SHOULD BE.

HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHILE APPLYING BRAKES. PROBLEM OCCURS ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION. SOMETIMES CARS THINK I AM FLASHING MY LIGHTS AT THEM SO THEY WILL TURN THEIR BRIGHT LIGHTS ON. ONCE I ALMOST DROVE OFF THE SIDE OF A WINDING ROAD BECAUSE WHEN THE FLICKERING LIGHTS BOUNCED OFF OF THE GUARD RAIL REFLECTORS, IT WAS DISORIENTING

REAR SEAT BELTS NOT SECURED. RUST AND CORROSION AT DOOR OPENINGS. REAR TRUNK LIFT - LOCAL DEALER NEVER HAS THE PART TO FIX IT AS REQUIRED IN RECALL.

THE HEADLIGHTS ON A NEWLY PURCHASED USED 2013 MAZDA 3 FLICKERING WHEN APPLYING THE BRAKES. THIS IS ESPECIALLY DANGEROUS WHILE DRIVING ON UNLIT STREETS AT NIGHT. TRYING TO DETERMINE IF THERE IS A COVERED MANUFACTURED ISSUE. THIS IS WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION AND BEING DRIVEN.

HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY KEEPS COLLECTING WATER WHICH SHORTS OUT THE HEADLIGHTS AND BALLAST. I KEEP FINDING THIS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WHEN RESEARCHING IT ONLINE. I CAN'T FIND ANY OBVIOUS WORN SEALS OR CRACKS. I'VE CHANGED MY LIGHTBULB 3 TIMES SO FAR IN SIX MONTHS. I FIND WATER EVERY TIME. MY LIGHT WILL MAGICALLY JUST GO OUT WHILE I'M DRIVING USUALLY AT NIGHT.

SHIFT LEVER GEAR CONTROL EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO SHIFT INTO GEAR AFTER STARTING THE CAR AND APPLYING THE BRAKE FROM A STATIONERY POSITION

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE CONTACT REAR ENDED THE PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE CONTACT'S HOME. THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY, THE INSURANCE COMPANY HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO AN UNKNOWN DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE ENGINE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. DUE TO THE VALUE OF THE VEHICLE VERSUS THE DAMAGE, THE INSURANCE COMPANY DECLARED THE VEHICLE DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED OR MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 65,000.

THE SWING ARM THAT ATTACHES THE DRIVER'S SEAT TO THE LEFT-SIDE SEAT RUNNER UNEXPECTEDLY DETACHED. CLOSE INSPECTION REVEALED THAT THIS WAS CAUSED BY A WELD FAILURE / METAL FATIGUE AT THE POINT WHERE THE ARM WAS WELDED TO THE ROD THAT RUNS BELOW THE CUSHION. THE SEAT IS NOW UNSTABLE AND ROCKS IN AN ALARMING WAY, BOTH WHEN ACCELERATING AND DECELERATING. COPIED FROM AN EXISTING COMPLAINT FOR THE 2010 MODEL YEAR BECAUSE IT IS THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM.

WHEN BRAKING, THE HEADLIGHTS PULSE. WHEN BRAKING, THE CAR RIDES BUMPY. THE STABILITY CONTROL LIGHT WILL COME ON AT RANDOM TIMES. THESE HAVE BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST COUPLE YEARS, AND ALL MECHANICS HAVE SAID THAT EVERYTHING LOOKS FINE ON THE VEHICLE.

THE DRIVER SEAT OF MY 2013 MAZDA3 ROCKS FORWARD AND BACKWARDS, NOTICEABLE UNDER HEAVY ACCELERATION OR BRAKING. THIS CAN ALSO BE REPLICATED BY PLACING MY FEET ON THE FLOOR OF THE CAR WHILE SEATED IN THE DRIVER SEAT AND LEANING BACK, WHEN I DO THIS THE SEAT ROCKS BACK AROUND 1/4 OF AN INCH. I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFETY OF THIS SEAT IN AN ACCIDENT. THIS PROBLEM WAS BROUGHT UP WITH THE DEALER WHO SAID "SEAT BASES MAY WEAR OUT" AND QUOTED +$1,800 TO REPLACE THE SEAT BASE. THIS PROBLEM IS SIMILAR TO A RECOGNIZED PROBLEM ON THE 2010 TO 2012 MAZDA3 CARS, THE 2013 MODEL IS IN THE SAME GENERATION OF CAR AND MAY BE SIMILARLY AFFECTED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PARTS TO DO THE REPAIR WERE UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE ROYAL PALM BEACH DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND CONFIRMED THAT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE FOR THE RECALL REMEDY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND WAS NOT ABLE TO CONFIRM WHEN THE PARTS WOULD BECOME AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE). THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. A DEALER WAS ALSO CONTACTED AND STATED THAT THE REPAIR PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

I DISCOVERED ONLY ONE OF MY REAR BRAKES WORN BEYOND THE PAD AND INTO THE METAL BEYOND. I AM DEAF - SO UNKNOWN IF STUCK & SQUEALING OR IF A TECH BULLETIN OR RECALL. THE ONE SIDE APPEARED TO HAVE BEEN STUCK IN THE APPLIED POSITION FULL TIME. MY MOTHER CALLED MAZDA NO INFO - BRING IT IN !! I WILL TRY.

THE POWER STEERING ON MY CAR JUST STOPPED WORKING AND THEN THE NEXT DAY IT WAS FINE. NOW, IT DOESN'T WORK AGAIN AND I CAN'T DRIVE IT. I WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY AND WANTED TO BACK OUT TO GO TO WORK AND THE WHEEL WOULDN'T TURN. I NEED MY CAR FOR WORK!! I SEE OTHERS COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE - WHY ISN'T THERE A RECALL? I ALSO HAD AN ISSUE THAT THE GAS TANK GOT A WHOLE IN IT AND AGAIN - NOT UNDER WARRANTY, BUT I SEE OTHERS COMPLAINING ABOUT THAT ISSUE AS WELL. MY CAR HAS ABOUT 32,000 MILES ON IT. I BOUGHT IT IN 2014, BUT IT WAS A BRAND NEW 2013 MODEL. I THINK THAT THIS SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY OR SOME KIND OF RECALL. LIKE I SAID, I SEE OTHERS WRITING ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. THANK GOD I WASN'T DRIVING WHEN THE STEERING DECIDED TO QUIT!! CAN YOU HELP ME?

THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY AND WAS STRUCK FROM BEHIND AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH. THE RATCHETING SYSTEM THAT CONTROLS THE RECLINE OF THE DRIVERS SEAT FAILED CAUSING THE SEAT TO RECLINE AS A RESULT OF THE IMPACT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V644000 (STRUCTURE); HOWEVER, THE PART FOR THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A RECALL NOTIFICATION FOR THE STRUCTURE; HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED AND THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ON, THE HEADLIGHTS WILL PULSE. THE FLASHING HEADLIGHTS ARE VERY NOTICEABLE WHEN FOLLOWING BEHIND ANOTHER CAR. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR WEEKS.

WHEN DECELERATING WITH HEADLIGHTS ON WHILE IN MOTION, HEADLIGHTS FLICKER UNTIL PRESSURE IS RELEASED FROM BRAKE PEDAL. BROUGHT TO DEALERSHIP AND WAS CHARGED $26.38 FOR PCM REPROGRAMMING.

WHEN THE BRAKES ARE APPLIED AND THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ON, THE HEADLIGHTS WILL FLICKER OR PULSE. THE FLASHING HEADLIGHTS ARE VERY NOTICEABLE WHEN FOLLOWING BEHIND ANOTHER CAR. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR MANY MONTHS.

I HAD WARMED UP MY CAR FOR APPROX. 5 MINUTES ON 1/1/2017, DROVE APPROXIMATELY 10 MILES TO A NEARBY CITY, AND TURNED ONTO A CITY STREET DRIVING 30 MPH. I ARRIVED AT A TURN ONTO ANOTHER CITY STREET, COMPLETED THE TURN, AND AS I BEGAN TO ACCELERATE, MY VEHICLE FELT AS IF IT HAD SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL ON ITS OWN. AS I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR, THE RPMS WOULD RISE BUT THE VEHICLE WAS ONLY COASTING DOWN THE STREET. I CHECKED THE GEAR SHIFTER, AND IT WAS STILL LOCATED IN THE DRIVE POSITION (AUTOMATIC) I THEN CHECKED THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND IT SHOWED DRIVE WITH NO MAINTENANCE OR PROBLEM LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED OVER SHIFTED THE VEHICLE INTO PARK, THEN BACK INTO DRIVE. EVERYTHING SEEMED NORMAL, SO I CONTINUED DRIVING DOWN THE SAME STREET AND ABOUT 10 SECONDS LATER THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENED. I FOLLOWED THE SAME PROCESS AS BEFORE AND THEN CONTINUED TO MY DESTINATION. I BELIEVE THAT THIS ISSUE IS CAUSED BY SOMETHING FAULTY WITH THE TRANSMISSION OR RELATED COMPONENTS. IT SEEMS TO HAVE DONE THIS RANDOMLY OR WHEN SHIFTING INTO DIFFERENT GEARS. ALSO SEEMS FAULTY AS THEIR ARE NO OTHER INDICATORS OF AN ISSUE. I FEEL THAT THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS ISSUE AS IF THIS WERE TO HAPPEN DURING MY TRANSIT TO WORK EACH DAY (VIA HIGHWAY, TRAVELING 65 MPH) THE POSSIBILITY OF AN ACCIDENT IS GREAT I BELIEVE. I HAVE CONDUCTED SOME RESEARCH ONLINE AND MY FINDINGS INDICATE SEVERAL OTHER OWNERS OF THE SAME VEHICLE HAVE HAD THIS SAME ISSUE WITH THEIR TRANSMISSION, COSTING THEM UNNECESSARY DOLLARS AS WELL AS RISKING SAFETY BY SOMETHING I BELIEVE TO BE FAULTY EQUIPMENT. *TR

WHENEVER I'M DRIVING AND USING MY HEADLIGHTS AND THEN I STEP ON MY BRAKES MY HEADLIGHTS FLICKER AS IF I WERE FLASHING SOMEBODY AND I HAVE HAD MY BATTERY TESTED AND ALTERNATOR AND CHANGED MY HEADLIGHTS BUT THE PROBLEM STILL OCCURS I HAVE ALSO LOOKED ON YOUTUBE TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE WAS HAVING PROBLEMS LIKE THIS AND THEY WERE THE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T TRIED WAS CONTACTING THE DEALER ABOUT IT. THE LIGHTS ARE NORMAL WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND I STEP ON THE BRAKES. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE WAS STRUCK BY ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. THE CONTACT SUSTAINED A BROKEN NOSE, WHICH REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED AND DESTROYED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE NUMBER 3 ENGINE MOUNT BROKE AT 52,000 MILES.

WHEN BRAKING OR DECELERATING, THE HEADLIGHTS PULSE. IT LOOKS LIKE WE'RE SIGNALING OTHER DRIVERS AT NIGHT (ALTHOUGH WHO KNOWS WHAT WE'RE SUPPOSEDLY SAYING) AND IT IS A SERIOUS HAZARD. THIS WAS PARTICULARLY A PROBLEM HEADING DOWN A MOUNTAIN AT NIGHT DURING A WINTER STORM TO HAVE OUR VISIBILITY GO IN AND OUT. THERE IS ALREADY A NOTICE OUT ACCORDING TO OUR MECHANIC, BUT WE RECEIVED NOTHING FROM MAZDA AND ARE BEING CHARGED TO REPROGRAM THE COMPUTER THAT IS SUPPOSEDLY CAUSING THE PROBLEM.

EXPERIENCING NOISY/CLUNKY SHIFTING WHEN MOVING UP OR DOWN BETWEEN 1ST, 2ND AND 3RD GEARS. (LOWER TWO GEARS WORSE) HAPPENS WHETHER CAR IS STATIONARY OR MOVING BUT SEEMS WORSE WHEN STATIONARY, THOUGH THIS MAY BE DUE TO LESS ENGINE NOISE AND BEING ABLE TO FOCUS MORE ON THE ISSUE. STARTED TO HAPPEN BEFORE EVEN REACHING 50K MILES.

A FEW MONTHS AGO, I BUMPED A PICKUP TRUCK - AT PERHAPS 2 OR 3 MPH. AIR BAGS DIDN'T DEPLOY, BUT MY CAR SUSTAINED OVER $4,000 IN BODY DAMAGE FROM THIS VERY MINOR INCIDENT. YESTERDAY, I CAME BACK FROM THE STORE AND FOUND THAT SOMEONE HAD BACKED INTO THE FRONT OF THE CAR WITH AN SUV OR SOMETHING, AND THE WHOLE LEFT FRONT OF THE CAR IS PUSHED OVER ALMOST TWO INCHES TO THE LEFT. THE PAINT IS BARELY SCRATCHED! NO GLASS OR PLASTIC IS BROKEN, BUT THE FRONT OF THIS CAR IS JUST ASTONISHINGLY FRAGILE. AS I UNDERSTAND IT, CARS ARE SUPPOSED TO HAVE 5 MPH BUMPERS SO VERY MINOR PARKING LOT INCIDENTS LIKE THESE DON'T RESULT IN HUGE DAMAGES. THIS THING IS SO DELICATE THAT SO MUCH AS LOOKING AT IT HARD RESULTS IN SERIOUS DAMAGE. I DON'T THINK THE REQUIRED 5 MPH BUMPERS ARE DOING ANYTHING AT ALL AND ARE COMPLETELY INEFFECTIVE. YOU COULD TOTAL THIS CAR BY RUNNING INTO IT WITH A SHOPPING CART, AND THAT IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

THE POWER STEERING ON MY VEHICLE TURNS ON AND OFF. I PUSH THE POWER BUTTON TO START THE ENGINE, AND THE POWER STEERING LIGHT WILL BE ON, AND I CANNOT STEER THE CAR. OCCASIONALLY IT WILL TURN OFF AFTER DRIVING A FEW MILES, OR SOMETIMES IT WILL TURN OFF IF I RESTART THE CAR, OR SOMETIMES IT WILL NOT BE ON WHEN I START THE CAR.

PURCHASE 4 CONTINENTAL EXTREME CONTACT TIRES (PK15-46-1960: 205/55R-16) ON 1/12/2015 . ON SATURDAY 8/6/2016 AROUND 5 PM THE 2 TIRES ON THE PASSENGER BLEW OUT AT THE SIDE WALL AT THE SAME TIME. LUCKY MY DAUGHTER WAS JUST PULLING INTO A PARKING LOT (WITNESS SAY SHE DIDN'T HIT ANYTHING). NO WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON INDICATING A PROBLEM. HAD TO GO TO FIRESTONE FOR REPLACEMENT TIRES. REPLACED THE ONES ON DRIVER SIDE FOR I DIDN'T TRUST THEM. FILE A WARRANTY ISSUE AND EVEN CALL CONTINENTAL THEY TO BAD ABOUT THE OTHER 2 TIRES. I BELIEVE THESE TIRES HAVE A DEFECT FOR THEY HAVE PLENTY OF LIFE LEFT ON THEM

2012 MAZDA3. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE AIRBAG RECALL INFORMATION. *SMD

THE HEADREST IS ANGLED TOO FAR FORWARD. I AM A SMALL FRAMED INDIVIDUAL 5'6", 115 LBS. I HAVE GOOD POSTURE. THIS SEAT AND HEAD REST DOES NOT ALLOW ME TO REST MY SHOULDERS AGAINST THE SEAT, RATHER I HAVE TO ROLL MY SHOULDERS FORWARD TO KEEP MY HEAD AWAY FROM THE HEADREST CAUSING SHOULDERS AND PAIN SO EXTREME THAT I FEEL LIKE VOMITING EACH TIME I DRIVE; MY COMMUTE IS ONLY 20-30 MINUTES. I HAVE TRIED MULTIPLE SEAT POSITIONS WITH THE LIMITED 2 ADJUSTMENTS I HAVE TO NO AVAIL. I HAVE READ THAT THE SEATS ARE MADE FOR LARGER PEOPLE WITH BROADER SHOULDERS-THEY WILL FILL THE SEAT AND DON'T SINK BACK INTO IT AS SMALLER INDIVIDUALS DO. SUCH PAIN IS A DISTRACTION TO DRIVING, MY HEAD SHOULD NOT BE FORCED DOWNWARD.

WHEN BREAKING MY HEADLIGHTS FLICKER ON AND OFF. IT ONLY OCCURS WHEN BREAKING. SECOND ISSUE: WHEN BACKING UP FROM REVERSE GEAR AND PUTTING CAR INTO DRIVE THE TRANSMISSION HESITATES TO ENGAGE AND THE CAR SURGES FORWARD LIKE IT IS NOT IN GEAR. IT WILL ALSO MAKE A METAL ON METAL SOUND WHEN FOOT IS NOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THIRD ISSUE: AT 55 MPH THE VEHICLE SHAKES. DEALER SAID THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE IT BUT IT HAPPENS ALWAYS AT 55MPH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE LIGHT FLASHED SEVEN TIMES AND PAUSED REPEATEDLY EACH TIME THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN. THE CONTACT, A TECHNICIAN, ATTACHED THE VEHICLE TO A SCANNER THAT PROVIDED THE CODE: B229A/CODE 17. THE CODE THAT WAS GIVEN TO THE CONTACT STATED THAT THERE WAS AN AIR BAG/AIR BAG SENSOR FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 39,000.

ON APRIL 27, 2016 I NOTICED A GAP BETWEEN THE SCREEN OR MY INFORMATION DISPLAY AND THE UPPER PORTION OF THE DASHBOARD. I ASKED MY LOCAL BODY SHOP IF IT WAS RELATED TO SOMETHING ELSE THEY HAD JUST TAKEN CARE OF; THE OWNER LOOKED INTO IT, SPOKE TO DOME LOCAL DEALERSHIPS, AND TOLD ME IT'S A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH MAZDA DASHBOARDS BUT THEY WON'T FIX IT. I DON'T KNOW WHAT ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS COULD POTENTIALLY BE AFFECTED IF MOISTURE, DUST, ETC. ENTER THE GAP, AND I ALSO DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS CONTINUING TO SEPARATE. WHAT'S THE END POINT? WHAT IF PART OF THE DASHBOARD COLLAPSES WHILE I'M DRIVING? MAZDA ISN'T TALKING.

EVERY TIME I SLOW DOWN (BRAKING OR JUST DECELERATING) THE LIGHTS FLICKER. THIS HAPPENS WITH HIGH OR LOW BEAMS. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR QUITE SOME TIME. I THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE BATTERY, BUT AFTER REPLACEMENT THIS CONTINUED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE REVVED AND VIOLENTLY JERKED FORWARD WITHOUT WARNING. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 23,000. UPDATED 05/11/16*LJ *TR

HEADLIGHTS PULSE, LIKE OTHERS HAVE STATED WHEN DECELERATING, AS IN COMING DOWN A HILL WHILE GENTLY BRAKING. I AM PUTTING THE LATEST DATE OF OCCURRENCE, BUT ITS BEEN GOING ON SINCE ABOUT SUMMER OF 2015. WOULD LIKE THIS RESOLVED.

WHEN THE CAR DECELERATORS, OR MORE NOTICEABLY, WHEN I'M BREAKING, THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER, ALMOST PULSING. IT HAS NOT GOTTEN ME INTO ANY TROUBLE YET, I'VE HEARD OF NEAR HITS BECAUSE OTHER DRIVERS THOUGHT THEY WERE ALLOWING THEM TO MERGE IN FRONT OF THEM. I'M MOST AFRAID THAT SOMEONE WILL THINK I'M THREATENING THEM BY FLASHING MY LIGHTS AT THEM. AS IF I'M ANGRY THEY CUT ME OFF AND FLASHING MY LIGHTS IN ANGER, FOR EXAMPLE. IT'S VERY RARE FOR THIS NOT TO HAPPEN WHEN IT IS DARK. MY BOYFRIEND IS ALSO AFRAID THAT THE LIGHTS ARE GOING TO GO OUT SPONTANEOUSLY, LEAVING ME IN THE DARK.

WHEN DECELERATING (BRAKING) HEADLIGHTS FLICKER. THIS MAKES NIGHT TIME DRIVING DANGEROUS & DIFFICULT.

DRIVING AT NIGHT AND THE VEHICLE DECELERATES AND APPLY BRAKES (WHICH IS MORE NOTICEABLE) THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER. I HAVE HAD PEOPLE THINK I'M A POLICE OFFICER BEHIND THEM, ALSO HAD VEHICLES PULL OUT IN FRONT OF ME BECAUSE THEY THOUGHT I WAS FLASHING MY LIGHTS FOR THEM TO GO. I HAVE TAKING THE CAR INTO MAZDA DEALER HAVE LOOKED AT AS WELL AS WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR FROM AND THEY HAVE YET TO SAY WHAT'S WRONG OR EVEN FIX IT. IF YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR 5-10 MINUTES IT STOPS FLICKERING FOR A DAY OR SO, BUT STARTS BACK UP AND AT TIME BEEN WORSE THAN PREVIOUS TIMES.

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR ENGINE SUDDENLY TURNS OFF. RADIO AND HEADLIGHTS REMAIN ON, BUT POWER STEERING STOPS FUNCTIONING. THIS HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES, 4 TIMES ON SURFACE STREETS AND ONCE MERGING ONTO THE HIGHWAY. LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG THE TWO TIMES I HAVE TAKEN IT IN. THERE IS NO CODE BEING DISPLAYED.

HORN GRADUALLY FAILED, BECAME WEAKER AND WEAKER, EVENTUALLY TOTALLY SILENT. LOOKED ON GOOGLE TO FIND LOCATION (IT IS VERY TIGHT IN THERE!) DISCOVERED NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS OF FAILED HORNS FOR THIS EXACT MAKE AND MODEL. HORN IS MADE BY FIAMM (ITALY). EXAMINED HORN, THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW IS SEALED. FAILURE IS INTERNAL. VEHICLE IS TWO YEARS OLD, HAS 39,000 MILES. REPLACED HORN WITH $10 AFTERMARKET ITEM, ALL OK NOW. TOOK ME ABOUT 45 MINUTES TO DO, AND I AM AN EXPERIENCED MECHANIC (CAUSE IS ABSOLUTELY MISERABLE ACCESS, ONLY HAD TO REMOVE ONE NUT AND ONE WIRE, THE TRICK IS GETTING TO IT), I FIX EVERYTHING FROM WRISTWATCHES TO AIRPLANE ENGINES. NO ACCIDENTS, NO INJURIES, BUT YOU MUST HAVE A WORKING HORN . . . THIS IS MY WIFE'S CAR, AND I WANT HER TO BE SAFE.

WHILE BRAKING THE FRONT LIGHTS ARE PULSING FROM REGULAR TO DIM AND BACK AND FORTH. THEY RETURN TO NORMAL AFTER RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL. THIS WAS FIRST NOTICED WHILE EXITING FROM HIGHWAY SPEEDS TO A DOWN RAMP.THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN FROM MAZDA ON THIS, #13-21. IT HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE TO MY VEHICLE TO NO AVAIL. THE PROBLEM IS ELECTRICAL IN NATURE IN MY OPINION.

7/26/15 6:15 PM I WENT TO A FAMILY FRIEND'S HOUSE. I PULLED UP INTO HIS MAIN DRIVEWAY, TURNED TO THE LEFT TO A DIRT DRIVE WAY IT HAD ABOUT A 3% GRADE INCLINE. I PULLED MY E BREAK, PUT INTO 1ST GEAR AND TURNED OFF MY CAR AND GOT OUT, GOT MY DAUGHTER OUT OF THE CAR AND WALKED UP TO THE HOUSE WITH MY WIFE AND DAUGHTER. WITH THE INTENT TO ONLY STAY AT OUR FRIENDS HOUSE FOR ABOUT 15 MINS. WE WERE OUTSIDE CHATTING AT OUR FRIENDS HOUSE ABOUT 15 MINS AND LOOKING TO HEAD OUT WHEN MY WIFE YELLS FOR MY ATTENTION! I TURN AROUND AND SEE MY CAR ROLLING BACKWARDS TOWARDS THE MAIN DRIVEWAY AND DOWN INTO A RAVINE ABOUT 20 FT DOWN. OF COURSE THIS IS A HUGE SHOCK TO MY LIFE! WE ARE VERY LUCKY THAT MY DAUGHTER OR DOG WAS NOT WAITING IN THE CAR, AS WE WERE ONLY PICKING UP AN ITEM FROM OUR FRIENDS HOUSE. THE ISSUE I HAVE IS, WHY DID THE VEHICLE ROLL BACKWARDS WHILE IN GEAR AND WITH THE E BREAK PULLED. THE VEHICLE SHOULD NOT HAVE MOVED. I NEED TO KNOW IF THERE IS ANOTHER EVENT THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED, AND I NEED TO HAVE ALL THE FACTORY RECALLS AND DEFICIENCIES WITH THE E BREAK. THIS WAS A VERY SCARY MOMENT, AND I AM STILL IN SHOCK WITH THIS SITUATION THAT SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED.

BRAKE CALIPERS AND PISTONS WERE DEFECTED AND WOULDN'T RELEASE AFTER YOU RELEASED THE BRAKE. THE WHEELS HAD TO BE MOVING FOR THE BRAKES THE BE RELEASES. CAUSING THE THE BRAKE PADS TO GRIND DOWN TO NOTHING AND HAVE METAL ON METAL CONTACT. IT WAS WORSE IN THE FRONT THEN THE BACK. I RECEIVED ALL NEW BRAKE CALIPERS BECAUSE THEY COULDN'T BE FIXED.

NOTICED FLICKERING OF HEADLIGHTS DURING NIGHT DRIVING WHILE BRAKING. THIS HEADLIGHT FLICKER WAS REPEATABLE WHILE NIGHT DRIVING AND BRAKING AT MODERATE TO HIGHWAY SPEEDS.

A FEW WEEKS AGO, THE LOW BATTERY INDICATOR CAME ON INDICATING THAT I NEEDED TO REPLACE MY KEY FOB BATTERY. MY CAR HAS A KEYLESS IGNITION/ PUSH-BUTTON START. I REPLACED THE BATTERY IN EACH OF MY KEY FOBS ABOUT A WEEK LATER. AFTER AN ADDITIONAL WEEK, MY CAR WILL NOT START WITH EITHER KEY FOB. THE DASHBOARD STATES THAT THE KEY IS NOT FOUND, EVEN THOUGH I REPLACED BOTH KEY FOB BATTERIES. I HAD TO TAKE THE IGNITION COVER OFF AND INSERT THE KEY TO START THE CAR. MAZDA IS CHARGING ME $100 JUST TO GET THIS LOOKED AT. *TR

THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER OR PULSATE WHEN I BRAKE OR DECELERATED MY 2013 MAZDA 3 HATCHBACK WITH THE 2.0 L ENGINE. NIGHT DRIVING IS DANGEROUS. *TR

2013 MAZDA3, HAZARD INVOLVING THE DESIGN OF THE WINDOW AND DOOR WHICH THE POSTS ARE WIDER IN THIS CAR AND CAUSE A SERIOUS BLIND SPOT. UPDATED 02/12/15*BF

MY CAR HAS HAD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES SINCE I BOUGHT IT. INTERMITTENT LACK OF ACCELERATION AFTER COMING OUT OF A PARKING LOT, MAKING A SLOW TURN AND SLOWING DOWN THEN NEEDING TO SPEED UP ON THE FREEWAY. I HAVE ALMOST BEEN REAR ENDED MULTIPLE TIMES BECAUSE OF THE CAR'S INABILITY TO SPEED UP IMMEDIATELY. THE DEALER I GO TO HAS TEST DROVE IT AND SINCE THE PROBLEM DIDN'T OCCUR ON THE SHORT TEST DRIVE THEY COULDN'T GET MAZDA TO APPROVE THE REPAIR. THE TECHNICIAN HAS DEALT WITH THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ON MULTIPLE MAZDA 3'S AND TOLD ME IT WAS THE TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I CONTACTED MAZDA AND THEY BASICALLY TOLD ME TO POUND SAND, THAT THEY WOULDN'T FIX IT UNLESS IT OCCURRED WHILE THE DEALER TECH DROVE. THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO GIVE ME A RENTAL CAR SO THE TECH COULD KEEP IT FOR A FEW DAYS AND DRIVE IT, NOTHING. THIS IS A DANGEROUS SITUATION THAT MAZDA KNOWS ABOUT AND THEY REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE IT. *TR

WHEN I STARTED DRIVING AND PUT ON MY HEADLIGHTS. EVERYTIME I PUT ON THE BRAKES THE HEADLIGHTS DIM AS THE BRAKE LIGHT IS PUSHED. *TR

MY WIFE AND I BOUGHT A BRAND NEW MAZDA 3 I-TOURING EDITION IN 2013. ON APPROXIMATELY 10/10/2014 SHE PICKED UP OUR 10 YEAR OLD BOY AND WHEN HE TRIED TO BUCKLE THE SEATBELT IT DID NOT WORK. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS MY WIFE THEN GOT IN THE PASSENGERS SIDE TO SEE IF SHE COULD GET IT BUCKLED. SHE COULD NOT. AT THIS POINT SHE ALSO NOTICED THE PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG HAD DISENGAGED, EVEN WITH HER IN THE FRONT SEAT. BEING WELL OVER THE MINIMUM WEIGHT TO ACTIVATE WE KNEW THIS WAS NOT THE PROBLEM WITH THE AIRBAG. UPON RESEARCHING THE INTERNET IT HAS COME TO MY ATTENTION THAT THERE ARE MANY CASES OF OTHERS WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. ALL OF WHICH WERE TURNED DOWN BY MAZDA FOR ANY KIND OF REMEDY. I SPOKE WITH [XXX], A SERVICE ADVISOR FOR NELSON MAZDA IN TULSA, OK, AND WHEN ASKED IF THERE WAS ANYTHING THEY COULD DO WITH OUT CHARGING ME BECAUSE OF THE SEVERITY OF THE SAFETY ISSUES THIS PROBLEM CAUSES HE BASICALLY JUST SAID NO. I DID BUY THE CAR AT ANOTHER DEALER BUT LIVE TOO FAR AWAY TO SET UP ANYTHING WITH THEM. I THOUGHT MAYBE ONE MAZDA DEALER WOULD STAND UP FOR ANOTHER JUST TO MAKE A GOOD SHOWING FOR THE MAZDA NAME. I GUESS I WAS WRONG. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

DRIVING 60MPH ON MAJOR FREEWAY DURING RUSH HOUR, LIGHT RAIN. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON. A FEW MINUTES LATER, EVERY WARNING LIGHT CAME ON AND I LOST THE POWER STEERING. I PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE HIGHWAY AND TURNED THE CAR OF, WAITED 10 MINUTES AND STARTED THE CAR. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT REMAINED ON AND ALL OTHER WARNING LIGHTS WERE OFF. STARTED DRIVING AND 10 MINUTES LATER ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AGAIN AND LOST POWER STEERING AGAIN. LEFT VEHICLE IN GARAGE OVER NIGHT WITH HOOD UP THINKING IT WAS DUE TO RAIN/MOISTURE/COMPUTER PROBLEM. CAR STARTED FINE IN MORNING, NO WARNING LIGHTS. TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID IT WAS A LOSE BATTERY CABLE. I AM THINKING IT WAS MORE THAN THAT. I HAVE NOTED MY CONCERN AND WILL AWAIT THE NEXT HEAVY RAIN. *TR

WHILE PRACTICING PARALLEL PARKING ELECTRIC POWER STEERING MOTOR BECAME HOT, POWER STEERING MIL WAS ON AND NO ASSIST TO STEER. AFTER LETTING IT COOL FOR 30 MIN DID MOTOR WORK AGAIN. *TR

TL * THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE'S HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY WAS COMPLETELY MELTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 15,000.

TL- THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT HAD NOTICED EXTENSIVE SPIDER WEBS WITHIN THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHO CLEANED THE INTERIOR AND THE SAFETY CONCERN HAD RECURRED. THE CONTACT HAD NOTICED THAT THERE HAD STILL BEEN NUMEROUS SPIDER WEBS AFTER THE LOCAL DEALER WAS TO INSPECT THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TWICE TO HAVE THE VEHICLE INSPECTED AND TO REMOVE THE SPIDER INFESTATION. THE VEHICLE WAS CLEANED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE SAFETY CONCERN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 4807. DYD

DRIVING DOWN THE STREET AT 15 MPH, THE CAR IN FRONT OF MYSELF HAD SLOWED DOWN AND STOPPED AT A LIGHT. WHEN I SEEN SHE WAS STOPPING, I PRESSED DOWN MY BRAKES SO I WOULD STOP BUT THE BRAKE PEDDLE PUSHED ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. MY CAR DIDN'T STOP. FROM THIS I HAD REAR-ENDED THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME. AFTER THE ACCIDENT, THE BRAKES WERE TESTED AGAIN AND RESULTED IN THE PEDDLE STILL BEING PUSHED DOWN TO THE FLOOR. *TR

I STARTED THE CAR AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. SHIFTED INTO GEAR THE "AT" LIGHT CAME ON. BROUGHT IT IN FOR SERVICE AND THEY NEED TO REPLACE THE "TRANS VALVEBODY". LOOKS LIKE A RECURRING THEME HERE. THE CAR IS A 2013 MAZDA3 I GRAND TOURING HATCHBACK THAT IS ONLY ABOUT 7 MONTHS OLD AND HAS LESS THAN 7000 MILES. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA, MAZDA 3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE SITTING AT A TRAFFIC STOP, ANOTHER VEHICLE CRASHED INTO THE CONTACT AT 35 MPH, CAUSING THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE TO CRASH INTO A PRECEDING VEHICLE. THE SEAT BELT FAILED TO RESTRAIN AND THE CONTACT'S HEAD WAS THROWN INTO THE WINDSHIELD. A PASSENGER SEATED IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE AND SECURED IN THE SEAT BELT ALSO SUSTAINED HEAD INJURIES. BOTH WERE TRANSPORTED TO THE HOSPITAL FOR TREATMENT. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INSPECTED TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000.

I AM A FIRE INVESTIGATOR WITH LEXINGTON FIRE DEPARTMENT. I RESPONDED TO A STRUCTURE FIRE ON THE LISTED DATE. IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE FIRE ORIGINATED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT OF THE VEHICLE AND SPREAD TO THE BUILDING. THE VEHICLE BELONGS TO HERTZ RENTAL CAR. THE INDIVIDUAL RENTING THE VEHICLE REPORTED THAT HE HAD EXPERIENCED PROBLEMS SHUTTING THE ENGINE OFF AND THAT THE VEHICLE HAD TURNED ON AFTER HE TURNED IT OFF. HE REPORTED HE HAD PARKED, LEFT THE VEHICLE AND IT WAS RUNNING WHEN HE RETURNED. NO RECALLS WERE LOCATED FOR THIS VEHICLE. *TR

ON FRIDAY 11/22/13 4PM I WENT TO GET MY OIL CHANGED AND CAR SERVICED. IT WAS THE END OF THE DAY & THE TECHNICIANS LEAVE AT 5PM. AFTER I RECEIVED MY CAR AT 5:10PM, I DECIDED TO TAKE SIDE STREETS TO GO PICK UP MY BROTHER, INSTEAD OF TAKING THE FREEWAY. THE CAR STARTED SLOWING DOWN AND EVENTUALLY STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION. THE ENGINE LIGHT AND THE TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM (TCS) TURNED ON. I GOT TO THE SIDE & CALLED THE MAZDA TUTTLE-CLICK IN IRVINE, CA SERVICE CENTER. HE TOLD ME SINCE THE ENGINE LIGHT WASN'T BLINKING THAT IT WASN'T A SERIOUS PROBLEM & CALL AGAIN OR TAKE IT BACK TOMORROW MORNING IF IT STARTED BLINKING. I TOOK THE CAR OUT AGAIN & IMMEDIATELY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED BLINKING. I STOPPED IN A PARKING LOT & CALLED AGAIN. THEY EVENTUALLY AGREED TO TAKE THE CAR BACK TO RUN DIAGNOSTICS. ON 11/25/13 I CALLED BACK TO ASK IF MY CAR WAS READY TO BE PICKED UP. THEY SAID THEY WERE WAITING FOR A TRANSMISSION VALVE PART TO COME IN. IF THIS ISN'T RELATED TO HUMAN ERROR AND IT WAS PURE COINCIDENCE, THEN THAT'S A BIG COINCIDENCE. ALSO, THE CAR WOULD'VE STALLED ON THE FREEWAY ON MY WAY BACK TO SAN DIEGO IF I HADN'T GONE TO PICK UP MY BROTHER. *TR

MY CAR SUDDENLY SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL AND WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF IT. I COASTED TO A STOP, STOPPED THE CAR, WAITED A BIT, THEN RESTARTED. IT WENT ABOUT HALF A MILE AND THE SAME THING HAPPENED. THE DEALER SAID IT'S A FAULTY TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY (AND I WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE, BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING HERE OR ON MAZDA'S WEBSITE). I WAS VERY LUCKY TO HAVE JUST GOTTEN OFF THE FREEWAY BEFORE THIS HAPPENED. *TR

MY NEW 2013 MAZDA3 WITH ONLY 3660 MILES FAILED ON A BUSY HIGHWAY. FIRST, THE ENGINE MADE A LOUD NOISE EVERY TIME I SHIFTED GEARS (MANUAL SHIFT.) THEN, I COULD NOT CHANGE GEARS AT ALL, AND THE ENGINE FAILED----I JUST BARELY GOT IT TO THE SHOULDER BEFORE IT QUIT ENTIRELY. THE DEALER SAYS THE CLUTCH NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. I'VE HAD THE CAR LESS THAN 6 MONTHS. *TR

I DROVE THE CAR ON FRIDAY, 4/26/13, FOR ABOUT 120 MILES. ON 4/29/13, I FOUND THE BATTERY DIED. THIS WAS THE SECOND TIME FOR THIS BRAND NEW CAR ABOUT A MONTH. IT'S NOT A RELIABLE PRODUCT. THE SERVICE LADY IN MAITA MAZDA SACRAMENTO TOLD ME THAT I SHOULD DRIVE THE CAR EVERYDAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY WORKING. WHY DIDN'T THEY TOLD ME BEFORE I BROUGHT IT. *TR