4S4BSBNCXG32719452016 SUBARU OutbackLimited + MR + ES + NAVI

Vehicle: 2016 Subaru Outback Recall Number: WUJ95 – Front Exhaust Pipe Bellows Crack I incurred repair expenses to address a condition that was later covered by Subaru Recall WUJ95. At the time of the repair, I was unaware that the vehicle was subject to this recall because I never received any recall notification from Subaru. The affected component was the front exhaust pipe bellows assembly covered by Recall WUJ95. The repair was completed by an independent repair facility. The condition involved a cracked exhaust bellows assembly. The failure of this component allowed exhaust gases to escape from the exhaust system into the cabin and is the condition identified by Subaru in Recall WUJ95. The issue was diagnosed and repaired by an independent repair facility. The repair addressed the same component and condition that was subsequently identified by Subaru as part of Recall WUJ95. After learning of the recall, I contacted Subaru of America seeking reimbursement because the repair was completed after the recall had been issued. Subaru denied reimbursement and stated that repairs performed at third-party facilities are not eligible. During the reimbursement review process, I requested documentation showing when and how recall notification was sent to me, including the address used, mailing date, and method of notification. Subaru declined to provide this information. Subaru also declined to provide the specific guidelines relied upon in denying reimbursement. My concern is that I never received recall notification before obtaining the repair, which prevented me from having the recall performed through an authorized Subaru retailer. I am requesting that NHTSA review whether recall notification requirements were properly satisfied in this case and whether vehicle owners are being provided sufficient information to verify recall notification when reimbursement requests are denied.

On 05/08/2026 the brakes failed while in a queue at a drive-up restaurant. The car was steered away to a flat part of the parking lot. After a restart the brakes returned to operation and the car was taken to the dealership where the brake line were flushed and the brake fluid replaced. On 05/25/2026 the brakes failed after backing out of an inclined parking space in a parking garage. The car came to a stop when it backed into a concrete wall. The car was towed to the dealer. The dealer inspected inspected the car and reported that the brakes were working as they should.

Parasitic battery drain due to a faulty DCM module. I've purchase 3 batteries in the past 16 months. I now have to keep a trickle charger on my car at night to ensure my battery is not dead in the morning. Unable to park overnight without charger due to fear of another dead battery.

The DCM (Data Communication Module), also referred to as the Starlink telematics module, has failed. This failure is causing a continuous parasitic battery drain, which rapidly depletes the vehicle’s battery even after charging or replacement. The component remains installed in the vehicle and is available for inspection upon request. The failure has resulted in repeated battery drain and loss of vehicle operability. I have experienced a dead battery approximately 4–6 times between September 2025 and present, and the condition has worsened to the point where the vehicle cannot remain running or operable without the battery dying within approximately 5 minutes. This creates a safety risk because the vehicle can become inoperable without warning, increasing the likelihood of being stranded in unsafe conditions or unable to use the vehicle in an emergency. Yes, the issue has been diagnosed and confirmed by a Subaru dealership, which identified the DCM module as failed and requiring replacement. The failure is consistent with a parasitic battery drain caused by the DCM. The vehicle has been inspected by an authorized Subaru dealership.I have also contacted Subaru of America and opened a case requesting assistance with the repair. The primary symptom was repeated battery drain and failure to start beginning around September 2025. The issue progressed over time, with multiple instances of a dead battery, and has now worsened to the point where the battery drains within minutes, preventing normal vehicle operation. There were no consistent warning lights directly identifying the DCM as the cause prior to diagnosis.

leak in cam carrier gasket caused large ammounts of smoke to fill engine bay and enter cabin air system. Struggled to breath and vision to an extent was obstructed. when car was parked, smoke continued to fill the engine bay. problem was confirmed by an independent technitian, with the vehicle undergoing a complete inspection about a year ago from the dealership of purchase. no warning lamps turned on until enough oil had seeped from the leak in the liquid silicon gasket, at which point the low oil warning light had turned on.

My 2016 Subaru Outback CVT transmission has exhibited an intermittent jerking and grabbing sensation when accelerating from a stop, worse when cold, since at least February 2023. This is a known defect covered under Subaru warranty extension bulletin 16-115-18. February 2023 — An authorized Subaru dealer documented the complaint in writing. The technician stated the vehicle never warmed up during the test drive and dismissed the concern. The CVT issue was never repaired. I was never informed of Subaru's CVT warranty extension program. February 17 2026 — seven days before my warranty expiration — the same authorized Subaru dealer physically identified and documented a CVT oil pump cover leak. The same jerking complaint was again documented in writing. No repairs were made and the warranty expired one week later. The CVT defect has been physically confirmed by an authorized Subaru dealer within the warranty period and Subaru of America has denied my warranty claim in writing. This issue presents a safety concern. The unpredictable jerking and hesitation when accelerating from a stop creates dangerous situations in traffic, particularly at intersections and when merging. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request. Subaru chose to handle this known widespread defect as a quiet warranty extension rather than a mandatory recall despite hundreds of owners reporting identical symptoms.

My 2016 Outback 2.5L model experienced an exhaust noise and/or odor coming from cracks at the bellows section of the front exhaust pipe which includes the catalytic converter. It was diagnosed as leak occurring at the front exhaust pipe. Quoted repair for replacement part only is $2700 plus $1000 labor to repair. Upon investigation, it was discovered that Subaru Recall WUJ-95 with subject Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking was issued in 2020. My specific VIN was excluded from this recall but I have experienced the exact issue described in the recall. As a result of this situation and exhaust inhalation the car is not able to be driven, this cause breathing issues for me, my wife and our 9 month old baby.

Brake light comes on while driving and power steering also locks up..

Almost after I took ownership of my vehicle in August 2024 from Lexus of Pembroke Pines, I noticed a light on the dashboard that would light intermittently. I purchased an extended warranty for almost four thousand dollars at the time of sale, thank God, as this car has needed a lot of work that I was never told about nor was anything in the CARFAX indicating so many issues. Subaru of Pembroke Pines service department took vehicle in to work on the air bag sensor as that is what seemed to be the issue. In the sixteen months that I have been paying off a loan, the car has been in service for at least a combined ten months plus. They have changed the sensor twice and have changed the harness twice to no avail and that has been covered by the warranty. Now Subaru wants to take apart the car to trace wires to try to find out why the light still won't go out. The warranty company is refusing to take responsibility for the payment for the work and I cannot and will not pay out of my pocket. Subaru wants me to take my car back and drive it. I DO NOT WANT TO DIE FROM A FAULTY AIRBAG. There is something grossly wrong with the vehicle, the service department and especially the warranty company. Please help me get my vehicle fixed without having to be further raped financially. Subaru is trying to get me to purchase yet another vehicle AND I was told by the service lane manager that I should never have been sold that car. IT IS DANGEROUS. My files you are requesting are in my car which is at the dealership.

I purchased a replacement battery in 2023. In August of 2025, the battery died, requiring a jump start. A local auto parts store checked the battery and it tested within acceptable limits, showing around 513 amps. A private shop confirmed this, and cleaned the battery terminals and cables. The battery functioned well until around November 2025, when it again died requiring a jump start. The battery again died in December 2025, about one month later, requiring a jump start.

1.Windshield crack in the deicing area. Driving on a highway heard a loud boom as if a very big rock hit the car. 30-40 second later there was another boom of normal loudness. At this moment windshield crack has been noticed. The windshield will not be available, replacing it on 12/22/2025 2. Visibility has been affected 3. No, problem was not reproduced. Dealer representative said that the problem is not covered by Subaru. 4. Windshield was visually inspected by the dealership representative. I will try to collect more data at the windshield replacement shop. 5. There were no symptoms of the problem. N.B - the crack outside is flat, as if no rock hit happened. - I have camera's MP4, where sounds can be heard, 1GB

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that the horn was inoperable. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer for a routine recall repair, and it was diagnosed and determined that the steering roll connector/clock spring had short-circuited. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.

Steering wheel controls frequently fail to work properly on the cruise control system specially the speed control. Also the exhaust system bellow has cracked. The moonroof leaks into the cabin and floor area of the passenger side. Also leaking into the A pillar on the passenger side. I only have a picture of the engine valve cover that is leaking and had to be replaced. I have video of the exhaust leak coming from the crack in the bellow pipe. Do not have video of the cruise control speed issues as I can’t take a video while driving.

I had a rock thrown at my vehicle's windshield and required a replacement. I went to a Subaru dealership, Zeigler Subaru of Kenosha, local to me for a replacement. A day after I received my car, the windshield developed a hairline crack emanating from the bottom. I brought it back to the dealer and they replaced it again. After that time, it was a whole week and a half when I noticed a hairline crack, this time from the top working its way down. I brought it once again to the dealer for a replacement and a better explanation as to what is going on. 1.5 months later, I took my car again and was good for a little over a month, when I noticed the same hairline crack, this time from the bottom. I am up to having three windshields being installed and have no confidence in the safety and longevity of the vehicle I have. Subaru has had engineers come out to evaluate my vehicle and determined that its structural construction is not compromised and have tried to diagnose another probable cause coming from the windshield wiper heater and unplugged it. I have heard crack noises when driving at random intervals and have it noted to the dealership. no further update has been told to me as of the writing of this concern.

Catalytic converter is cracked. This is confirmed by an independent service center. Apparently there is a recall for this issue for 2015 and 2016 Subaru Outbacks manufactured up until September 2015. My 2016 Subaru Outback has the same issue and was manufactured in April 2016. The recall should include all 2016 Subaru Outbacks, not just those manufactured in 2015.

Accelerated on its own doing 25mph and accelerated quickly and took pumping brakes to get it to stop

I reached under the steering well to the foot well because it seemed that my AC was not putting out any air. I touched something and received a burn on my hand. I reached out to the SOA but was told to take it to the dealer. Then they asked me to call back and discuss further. When I called back I was told to take it to the dealer. I'm not sure I want to take it to the dealer to be charged a diagnosis fee. It seems the "kick panel" should cover this hot part to not allow access.

Horn quit working

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the low oil warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, where it was diagnosed and determined that the engine seal had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 110,000.

EYE SIGHT GOES OUT SHORTLY AFTER RECONFIGURATION (HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES), BRAND NEW BATTERY HAS BEEN DRAINED CAUSING COMPLETE SHUT DOWN, HAS BEEN IN SHOP FOR SIX WEEKS AND DEALERSHIP CANNOT FIND REASON FOR THIS HAPPENING AND HAS REPLACED BATTERY AND DRIVEN THE CAR WAITING FOR A REPLICA TO HAPPEN. MY RESEARCH LEANS TOWARD DCM/ECM/PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN ISSUES BUT THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE A RECALL FOR THESE ELECTRONIC ISSUES.

Exhaust leak in or near exhaust manifold / bellows / flex pipe identical to problem identified in WUJ-95 recall, confirmed by both dealer and independent mechanic. Problem produces 'growl' and fumes in passenger cabin. This problem likely existed when we purchased the car used from LaFontaine Subaru in Commerce, MI.

Safety concern - Exhaust entering into the car. Smells of exhaust. Warranty should be extended to 15 years, 150,000 miles as was done on identical part 2017-2018MY Subaru Forrester Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking. This part is known to be defective. 1. My 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5L if manufactured 12/9/2013 - 9/30/2015 is covered. My Subaru just outside this window, manufactured 12/2015. Service Program Bulletin Number: WUJ-95. 2. My Subaru is within the 80,000 routine emissions warranty, though 1 year outside the 8 years. 3. This Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking happens on the identical part in the Forester and has an Exhaust Pipe (Front) Warranty Extension (W122-013) to 150,000, 15 years. Attached - Repair estimate, Service Program Bulletin WUJ-95 dealing with this year Outback, Service Bulletin Number 09-84-22 dealing with identical part 2017-8 Subaru Forester

Known battery drain likely from DCM and also they designed the alternator not to completely charge battery causing frequent dead battery without warning and for no operator error and causing frequent need to replace car batteries over the years.There was a class action lawsuit but no recall for these issues so has not been addressed properly.

Exhaust gas smells in the driver cabin and the exhaust shield and the pipe is breaking off.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that there was an exhaust odor entering into the cabin of the vehicle, which was most noticeable when the heater was activated. The contact stated that while the vehicle was idling, there was an abnormally loud sound as if the exhaust was releasing in large amount of fumes. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated that the failure was related to the emissions and was related to NHTSA ID Number: 10182196 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Equipment, Equipment Adaptive/Mobility). The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and confirmed that the VIN was not covered under NHTSA ID Number: 10182196 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Equipment, Equipment Adaptive/Mobility) or under warranty. The manufacturer opened a case and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline to report the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while the vehicle was occupied and parked at residence and attempting to start the vehicle, there was an abnormal sound coming from the underneath the vehicle. The contact stated while driving at various speeds there was exhaust fumes entering the cabin of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed and determined that front exhaust manifold connected to the catalytic converter needed to be replaced. The contact stated that the technician inspected the vehicle and became aware that the exhaust pipe was rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but offered no assistance. The manufacturer informed the contact that there were no recalls associated with the VIN. The contact related the failure to a Service Program Bulletin: WUJ-95R (Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking); however, the VIN was not included in the bulletin. The contact was referred to the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was 171,000.

There’s an open recall on an exhaust leak for similar models and years and my car needs the same work done but it’s not covered under the recall

The 8 month old battery on my 2016 Subaru Outback just died. I understand that the warranty on the DCM was extended by a year, but the dealership said that if it turned out the DCM was not defective, I would have to pay for the test ($185) . The warranty only covers having the battery recharged or replaced. If the DCM is the cause of the battery drain, than the warranty should pay for replacing the DCM, in addition to replacing the battery. Otherwise the problem will continue to reoccur. There should be a recall on the DCM!

The steering warning light came on and my steering wheel stiffened. Luckily I was able to make it home, but when I went back to crank it. The light was still on and it would only move forward of backwards; because I wasn't able at all to turn the steering wheel.

Original owner of a 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5L, took in to Midas for small exhaust leak. Midas found that the Exhaust Pipe Front Bellows was cracking. They sent me a quote to repair the bellows and also a print out of Service Program Bulletin Number WUJ-95R n the 2015-2016MY Outback 2.5L referring to the Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking. I called to speak with Subaru's corporate recall center and they said my VIN was not part of the recall, however, my car was manufactured in 2015 and is having the exact same issues as the other 2016 Subaru Outback 2.5L. Our safety is being put at risk as CO (carbon monoxide) is leaking into the vehicle due to the cracking in the Exhaust Pipe Front Bellows.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that the passenger’s side wheel window trim was slightly pivoted. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who determined that the trim needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired because the dealer had not confirmed if parts had been ordered or received. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 MPH in 2020, the vehicle experienced transmission failure and the vehicle came to a jerking stop, as if the parking brake had been activated. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and the contact was informed that the CVT transmission had failed and needed to be replaced. The contact stated that approximately 4 years later, several warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but no cause for the failure was found. The contact stated that after leaving the dealer, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was returned to the dealer and was diagnosed with CVT failure. The CVT transmission was replaced. The contact was informed that the wiring harness needed to be replaced; however, the wiring harness had not been replaced. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and opened a case. The failure mileage was 35,000.

My 2016 Subaru Outback, manufactured 23 business days after the end date of recall WUJ-95, has the same exhaust system and now the same exhaust system failure as the cars covered under the recall. My car is available for inspection. This exhaust failure poses a risk of carbon monoxide poisioning. The problem in my car was identified by an independent mechanic who works exclusively on Subarus and has seen this failure in other clients' vehicles. He referred me to Subaru for repairs and recommended I look into why I hadn't received a recall notice. I contacted Subaru, opened a case, then didn't recieve a response in the timeframe they defined. After waiting a few days, I called back to learned my case had been closed. Their customer advocacy representative responded the next week and said my car was not recalled because it was manufactured on 11/3/2015, after the end date of the recall on 9/30/2015. She also cited a lack of service history with a Subaru retailer (I offered to provide records) and being out of warranty by time and miles (I mentioned 2017-18 Foresters received warranty extensions to 15 years or 150K miles for this failure.) I asked what their escalation process is for making exceptions and was told the representative was the only customer-facing person I would be able to speak with about this and she declined to offer any assistance, but did offer a loyalty discount on a new vehicle. My car has not been inspected by anyone else. I'm willing to take it to anyone who should look at it. There were no warning lights or messages related to the issue. It was diagnosed when I took the car in for regular maintenance and it explains the more noticable smell of exhaust in the car, that I had attributed to other traffic, when I'm sitting at stop lights.

The catalytic converter on my vehicle has an air leak causing my engine light to come on and almost all features such as cruise control become disabled. There is a recall that was issued in 2020 for the exact same problem my vehicle is having and the recall covers the same year, make and model of my vehicle. I was told that my vehicle isn’t under the recall but the representative was unable to specify why. I am trying to get the part replaced as the vehicle is polluting the air and causing my vehicle to not perform as expected.

I’m unable to remove the car key from the ignition when the vehicle shifter is in Park.

The lock on the side of the door that turns on the child lock so kids cannot open the door from the inside is stuck in the lock position and will not disengage.

Excessive oil consumption. Have to add a quart every 3300 miles. Twice in last two months on highway and city street, low oil warning came on. Mileage on auto is 72000 miles. All scheduled maintenance performed by Subaru dealer.

The "SELECT LEVER COMPLETE" or fear shift neutral park sensor switch stops working. Subaru has acknowledged the issue and issued a TSB (NUMBER: 16-112-18R). The issue is that the car does not sense it is in park or Neutral, even though the shifter is in that position. For keyed cars, the key cannot be removed and for push to start the car rear gate does not open and an alarm sounds when doors are open when the ignition is on. The car warns to move shifter to Park, even though the car is shifted to park. Car has been serviced several times with complaints indicating symptoms of issue, but was never informed of cause and lever select was never replaced.

There is a strong smell of engine exhaust in the cabin as other people have submitted similar complaints.

The Eyesight system will malfunction and turn off at random times. The Automatic Emergency Braking and Forward Collision Warning will activate when there is nothing in front of my car causing it to brake abruptly. I have almost been in numerous collisions due to the random safety systems malfunctioning.

Recently, My daughter noticed the strong smell of exhaust in the car. It turns out the there is a leak in the exhaust manifold. Subaru issued SERVICE PROGRAM BULLETIN WUJ-95R to address a issue where a bellows in the exhaust cracked and allowed the leakage of exhaust gases in front of the CC, releasing noxious gases into the air and into the driver compartment. Problem is they only applied this to a small amount of the production of the 2016 outback. This issue has been occurring on 2015 to 2019 models since and they did not include them in the recall. To fix this issue because of a design flaw the CC (Catalytic Converter) also needs to be replaced at a cost of over 3000 dollars. My ask is that they should extend this recall to cover all the cars with this design as it is a serious health issue to drivers of the cars. This is not an issue where rust is causing exhaust to break out, This is a manufacturing design issue where cars are having the issue which were only a couple years old. In my case, the Bellows in question were replaced by the previous owner at less than 4 years old and I did not know about that. So when that repair failed(not the permanent fix offered in the service bulletin) Subaru told me I am on my own though the CC should be covered to 150K in New York State. I feel they should be responsible to address this issue for all the models with the defective design.

My 2016 Subaru Outback has gone through 5 batteries since purchase in 4/2016. The reason for my contact with you is that the Navigation function “eyesight” has been problematic for at least two years and began with the third of five batteries. The function stops working randomly at any hour of the day and in all conditions. This year it went off and on in excess of 300-400 times. Each time it stops, cruise control, lane warnings, etc. are off. This can be harrowing with highway driving. On the three occasions I took it to the dealer the past two years they could not find a cause. After I replaced the battery again recently, they reset a DCM whose warranty had been extended by Subaru and that I brought in myself. There have been a number of parasitic drain tests, some finding a drain, others not on the batteries When the car was returned to me, the navigation system went off only once that same day but I presume it will go off in the future. I do not find the car or system reliable. The problem appears to be exceedingly hard to diagnose. Since these are the types of systems used with automatic and self driving car functions, I thought it important that you be made aware of the hazards these systems present.

Media screen failure. Is available for inspection. Safety of pedestrians or other accident at risk because the screen is useless in bright sunlight. Planning to complain to dealer. No warning signal or alert when backing up when screen is unreadable. This has caused accidents x 3 for my family. Backed into another car with no warning.

Can not take the key out of ignition.

I have a vehicle built in 11/15. I had an issue with cracked pipes associated with the catalytic converter that appear to match an existing nhsta recall for vehicles built between 12/09/2013 – 9/30/2015. It appears that the previous recall was not expansive enough.

Travelling on I-95 southbound at approx. 70 mph in the right lane at least 8-10 car lengths behind another vehicle in front of me. Clear skies, 78* F, calm weather. I heard a loud, sudden noise followed by wind and what sounded like glass on my roof, thought it was fireworks or a gunshot. Pulled over to make sure my dogs are OK (all good, just spooked!) and see what happened to the car when I observed a large hole and continued cracking noise in the sunroof - glass was pushed outwards/ convex rather than concave as if an object had struck the glass from above or in front of my vehicle. Notified insurance then carefully drove home the remaining 20 or so miles, called dealership and started researching the issue. There are nearly 40 reports of spontaneous sunroof explosions on NHTSA website for Subaru Outbacks. Dealing with Subaru Corporate and a local dealership for repairs.

The blind spot warning and rear cross traffic warning system stopped working. It was safer to drive on the highway when it was working. I had it looked at and I was told that the sensors are known to fail. It is an expensive replacement and not under warranty or recall.

The battery is dying very quickly The DCM Data Communication Module is draining the battery causing the vehicle to become stranded This is the fifth battery in this vehicle Subaru is aware of this issue but refuses to find a solution to fix it

The child lock of right side is stuck its on on position we can't open the door from inside nd now the button is broken.

Car exhaust inside the vehicle when driving at low speeds, idling, or parked into the cab of the vehicle. Only way to stop the exhaust fumes is to use the recirculate interior air. Rear hatch hydraulics are failing, hatch will not open completely and partially shuts when opened. When driving very loud squeaking from vehicle.

Front Passenger Side window will not roll down. The electrical button on the driver's side is not functioning to allow it to roll down. This was a similar problem with the back passenger side window which was taken care within the first year of purchase.

Windshield cracks on its own. This is my 3rd time replacing windhield.

Windshield cracked on its own, this is the 3rd time I will be replacing windshield.

Transmission went out at 72,000 miles. Was told it was not covered by warranty even though I purchased extended warranty. Will never buy another Subaru again. Spoke to a person at customer service who said she would take care of it. Made 19 calls over 3 months and no one returned a call. Terrible customer service at the main office.

Since owning this new Subaru vehicle, I have replaced the battery once. Today I had the car towed to the dealer with them diagnosing the car telling me it needs a certain module that has been draining the battery. Due to this problem, I have had to take an Uber to work. When the vehicle would not start, I had AAA come out and was told that the battery had 13% power on the one call out and 20% on the second call. In speaking with the tow truck driver for AAA he told me that this battery problem has been going on for a while with the 2015 to 2020 Subaru's. Now the dealer wants to charge me nine hundred and fifty-eight dollars to replace the module. If there was a problem with the module, why was I not told sooner about it? It seems to me that the factory battery is not strong enough to hold a charge and they are blaming it on the module. There were no warnings or messages telling me there was a problem with the battery.

Dead battery issues and DCM battery issue

My Subaru Key is Stuck in Ignition. Two to three times a week the key can not be removed from the key switch . The vehicle will shut off, but the key remains.

Right rear door will not open from inside, child door lock will not shift although child lock not engaged. InCase of crash or fire cannot exit vehicle. confirmed by repair shop. No insurance inspection. No warning lights associated with this visible

We have had multiple incidents on this MY16 Subaru Outback draining the battery over the past several years. Sometimes the battery is dead after a couple or few days of driving. There seems to be a battery / electrical management (current draw when vehicle if off) issue as noted in multiple incidents and there was even a class action lawsuit. The SW update associated didn't resolve the issue. One can find many others with similar problems with Subaru Outbacks. (note: our MY17 Crosstrek also is experiencing the same issues). We have changed multiple batteries, needed multiple battery charges, required to buy a battery charger, buy a multimeter, and still have continued issues. Subaru corporate and the local dealership have done little/nothing to resolve the continued issue which causes disruptions in personal schedules, and just hope we don't have a dead battery/vehicle in a dangerous situation.

Ignition key cannot be removed quite frequently. It requires restarting engine, jiggling shift lever to finally release. I see a Subaru TSB 16-112-18R has been released for this issue.

- Leaking exhaust at bellow - I had to replace the catalytic converter. - I have a bad sense of smell. I did not notice it was an issue until a passenger of mine noted a smell of exhaust while we were driving. - I read a bulletin on your websites that there was a recall of other 2016 Subaru Outbacks for this same issue. I understand that my car was not a part of this recall because of the manufacturing date, but I found it to be an odd coincidence that my car has the same issue. When I visited another mechanic initially, he immediately alerted me that he has seen many Subaru vehicles with this same issue and directed me to a Subaru dealership. - My car was finally diagnosed and repaired at Marin Subaru of CA.

Key remains stuck in ignition upon putting vehicle in park and shutting vehicle off. Failure comes from faulty switch in the selector lever assembly. Unable to remove key from vehicle for several minutes at a time. Failure acknowledged in TSB 16-112-18R

As I was pulling slowly into a parking spot in a busy lot that serves a lot of small businesses, my Subaru suddenly accelerated forward, over the concrete parking bumper and raised sidewalk area, and into the side of the building. While I was uninjured and had no passengers in the vehicle, the car sustained damage to the apron and tire area on front passenger side of the car. The airbag did not inflate. Tiling on the exterior of the building was impacted, but not greatly damaged, and I had been able to avoid the plate glass entry to the business. A few customers were greatly alarmed by the Subaru's proximity to their lunch tables by the windows. I was able to put the vehicle into reverse and carefully move it off the sidewalk. I exited the car and went in to share my insurance information with the empathetic employees and manager of the business. I was able to drive my vehicle about two blocks to a larger lot, so that the towing company my husband contacted could access it, but not for several hours. The vehicle was taken to an auto body shop where it remains until they are finished with it. The claims people seem to have reached the conclusion that since I was driving, I must be at fault in this accident. I immediately, and still, continue to think over that incident, trying to determine how parking carefully and without distraction could turn into such a collision. I believe that I am not to blame. In reading the reports that have been made to your agency on Subarus of this vintage, there are marked similarities to the narratives on sudden unintended acceleration caused by Subaru equipment faults. I have lost confidence in what has been my favorite car. I'm hoping that some clear path exists for me to drive it again without anxiety.

I bought this vehicle used. I was the 2nd owner. I purchased it on the evening of August 18, 2023. On the morning of August 19, 2023, I drove the vehicle for about 45 miles. I reached my destination, got out of the car, and saw what looked like either smoke or dust from under my car. I worried it might be overheating. A bystander told me the car was on fire. I walked forward to see flames coming from the front passenger side below the grill, possibly in the axle. The fire grew aggressively despite attempts to extinguish it. When the fire department arrived within 5 minutes the car was fully engulfed. The damage is so severe that it may be impossible to determine the source and cause of the fire. The dealer and my mechanic performed inspections on the vehicle before I bought it and found everything to be in good working condition.

My key keeps getting stuck in the ignition, and forced me to have to leave the key in the car while I went in to a store, when i got back someone was in my car. I realize that this is a different type of safety issue, but it truly is a safety issue. I am having to leave my key in my car everywhere i do because it doesn't come out,, eventually it will come out randomly but not everytime I shut the car off. this should be a recall issue for Subaru's that have this problem. I have read many complaints about Subaru owners with this issue happpening to them. I am not the only one. Thank You!

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while attempting to turn off the vehicle, the key failed to release from the ignition switch. There were no warning lights illuminated. After approximately twenty minutes, the contact was able to remove the key. The contact called the local dealer, but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 23,000.

Car has has 4 new batteries since I bought it new. Had to have this car jumped at least 12 times and some times at night late in downtown Portland where I have not been in a safe location. Once in the snow after hiking to come back at dusk with only one person around at trailhead. Got lucky the jumpstart worked. Apparently today after having it towed to a shop before we take a 9 hour road trip, the mechanic found that it is the voltage regulator in the alternator. Apparently a known issue with Subaru. Ridiculous that I have spent probably over $1000 or more on this issue, and been stranded multiple times and inconvenienced family and friends on this issue countless times.

Passenger window will not go up like it should. Gets to the top of the window and rolls back down. Will not go up unless we do short tiny bursts on the up button slowly to make it stay shut.

Key intermittently stuck in ignition. Unable to lock car doors with key stuck in the ignition. Problem started early on occasionally and now happens nearly every other time and requires a few tries up to 10 minutes of trying to get it out. This is a known issue among my model - Service Bulletin 16-112-18R

While driving on the highway at about 60mph my 2016 Outback suddenly accelerated much faster. The only way to avoid collision with another car or cars or end up in a ditch was to drive around them. The brake did not work! After a minute or more(?) I eventually was able to stop using the brake.

Motorized power liftgate is failing (diagnosed by dealer on 7/7/23) apparently because motor is undersized or 2 motors should have instead been used/designed to deal with load. Safety issue if motor failure causes trunk not to open. Newer models have been redesigned.

Something is draining the battery when the car is not in use. This left me stranded and that is a safety issue. On 12/01/21 I had a new battery installed at the Subaru dealership. The battery wasn't dead at the time but I had the car long enough that I thought it was time for a replacement. Late last year my husband took the car for an emission inspection and when they turned the car off, it wouldn't start and they had to boost it off and the same thing happened a few times when the car was parked in the garage I took it to the dealership and they said they were unable to make the battery fail so they could not replace it at no charge. I had them check more items and they said everything was fine. We bought a new battery 3/17/23 and exactly 3 months later it was dead again. From reports online people seem to think it's the starlink system. At the time they had to have an upgrade, I took the car to the dealership twice to upgrade 3G in starlink and Starlink never worked again. There are no warning lights, the battery just dies.

The software is designed not to allow the alternator to charge the battery fully. Subaru was made aware of this issue and came out with a software update which they are charging $200 for. This is a defect that causes the car to die every time the car is turned off, they should be updating the software for free.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while the was stationary at a traffic light, the vehicle accelerated independently while depressing the brake pedal. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact stated that the RPM’s was elevated to 5,000. The contact stated that he turned off and restarted the vehicle and was able to continue driving to his destination. The contact called the local dealer and made them aware of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 35,000. The consumer stated the vehicle was inspected and didn't find anything wrong with the vehicle.

Cam Carrier leak due to a factory design. Yes it is available for a inspection. This causes a lot of oil to leak, oil is flammable and the dealer told me there is a high risk of an engine fire due to this. Yes the dealer confirmed the problem, this is a common problem with Subaru Outbacks, there are tons of reports and complains about this. The vehicle has been inspected by Subaru dealership No warnings or lamps, Subaru dealer has known about this issue with oil leaking from the cam carrier since back in 2019 when they first brought it up to me, they only wiped the leaking fluid and never proceed to complete warranty repair to fix the issue.

At 59,000 miles, engine developed “heavy leak from cam carriers” by dealer service department. It was recommended that it be resealed. Engine was removed and serviced. At 112,000 miles same diagnosis was observed, along with a recommend reseal. It appears that the dealer repair was not done properly, or the repair was only temporary. This is a very labor intensive and expensive repair that needs to be done to avoid leaking oil that could ignite and cause engine fire. This seems to be a chronic problem and redesign of the repair and cam carriers are needed immediately. Subaru of America has offered to cover about 1/3 of the cost.

At low rate of speed, while parking vehicle accelerated without warning and damaged 3 cars . This happened previously with separate family drivers without damage. This is a serious defect and could potentially cause serious injury or death. This was not driver error. the car lurched forward with absolutely no gas pedal involvement. The previous times it happened at a stoplight with enough room in front to hit the brake. Not this time.

A crack appeared across the upper middle of the windshield. There was no event, damage, or accident involved. The crack just appeared one day. The crack runs across the windshield in the area of the rear view mirror and in front of the mounted cameras used for the collision avoidance, lane departure system.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be serviced; however, while the mechanic was inspecting the vehicle, he noticed oil splatter inside the engine compartment. The vehicle was diagnosed with an oil leak. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the oil warning light illuminated. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V502000 (Power Train). The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 74,315.

Subaru dealer diagnosed oil leaks on the valve cover gaskets. I took the car to an independent repair business and the problem was diagnosed as a camshaft carrier oil leak. Upon removing the necessary parts, the company reported to me they found chunks of silicone around the carrier. I first noticed a smell of something burning after Subaru had done an oil change about 2 months prior. I was also getting the Check Oil lamp about 2 months after the oil change. It was losing oil. That’s when I had Subaru diagnose the problem. The loss of oil could have started a fire. Parts are available for inspection.

2016 Subaru Outback has a flawed electrical system that drains the battery. We are on our 3rd battery. Prior to a road trip in Nov. 2022 we had our car fully serviced. Day two of the road trip we had a dead battery. Got a jump and had a new battery installed at Reno Subaru dealership. We went on another 7 day trip in Jan. 2023, left our car at the airport only to return to another dead battery that is less than 2 months old. After doing a little research and making several calls to the Reno dealership and our hometown dealership, we now understand there is a serious problem with Subaru's electrical system. Even newer models will experience the same issue if left sitting for several days. This has been a known issue for years and presents serious personal safety issues for Subaru owners. Especially if you find yourself stranded in a dark parking garage late at night! Shame on Subaru!

I was in a parking lot at a near-complete stop. I needed to nose the car about 18 inches to move it all the way into the spot. I lightly touched the accelerator to inch the car forward, and it shot forward as if some outside force had stomped on the accelerator. The car jumped the sidewalk and slammed into the wall of the building. The car inner body bent and the car is totaled. The airbags did not inflate. The passenger in the passenger seat sustained a fractured sternum and two broken ribs from going into the seatbelt. The driver sustained a sore neck and dizziness.

Per my subaru code for checking a depleting battery after not using vehicle for 3 days and then not being able to start car without a jump they said i would owe $29 to check battery as it was not a subaru battery. The code i received is sb37469152. After checking battery which checked out ok their solution to my problem is to buy a battery tender and plug it in after i go someplace. I am 93 years and don't go out everyday so this is a real problem. Never heard of such a issue. UNBELIEVABLE

Front windshield cracked all the way across. Have not replaced so it is available for inspection. The crack impairs vision. Confirmed by dealer in Macon, GA. Has not been inspected except by the service department at Subaru in Macon, GA. No warning lamps or messages.

THE BATTERY is completely unreliable - I have had 3 batteries since I purchased the car in 2015 - REPEATED RECURRENT DISCHARGE WITHOUT APPARENT CAUSE - SUCH AS LIGHTS LEFT ON - PARASITIC DRAIN IT SEEMS In recent research have discovered this is not a new issue and there is a class action lawsuit settlement - I did not exclude myself and somewhat now wish that I had, in order to attempt to get some buy back incentive from Subaru. Beginning in 2019 - and maybe prior though I had not recognized it as a chronic issue then - I have encountered recurrent issues of complete battery discharge after time periods ranging from 5 to 24 hours. Estimate at least 1 to 2 discharges per month requiring cable jump, and many more times when the car was very difficult to start (almost fully discharged) To minimize risk as consumer I have bought a HALO Bolt - but Subaru should be held accountable to fixing primary cause of this chronic issue for so many of us.

There is a great possibility of being stranded with this car. And in winter weather, it could be deadly. The car is draining the battery abnormally quick. I have a less than 1 yr old battery and if my car sits a day or two the battery goes dead. The battery will take a charge and then work, but then is drained in a day or two. I have also read there is something going on with the CAN system in these cars. Please help if you can. Thank you.

The contact called on behalf of his mother who owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, there were abnormal knocking sounds coming from the engine. There was no warning light illuminated. Additionally, the contact stated that he was informed at a State Inspection that the vehicle was included in Subaru Campaign Numbers: WUJ95 and WTH68. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the engine intake manifold was fractured. The contact stated that he informed the dealer that he would not pay a fee for the maintenance of the vehicle and the dealer informed him that the parts to repair the vehicle under Subaru Campaign Number: WUJ95 were not available. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 110,000.

Have had to replace the battery 2 times in the last 4 years. And currently have an app that shows the strength of the battery in addition to its cells. If the car is not driven in two to three days then the battery depletes energy. There has to be something going on from the numerous times that this has occurred in the last few years. It is not only a very huge risk when this can happen in unfamiliar locations, nto only mechanically but also personally. Works after charging but charging is not always an option. Should not have to rely on this either. I believe replacing the battery by the company should not be our option and should be further investigated...Please! Thank you!

Battery drains on its own after about a week of light use (driving <10 miles daily)

Summary of Electrical system issues: 1.pertaining to battery draining and 2. eyesight randomly goes out and other dash board lights flash and later goes away. As well as, 3. Windows that can not completely close at times. Details: I purchased 2016 Subaru outback - 4 cylinder in 2019 with 64,000 miles. By 2020, the car experienced random dashboard lights indicator flashing that would resolve itself (*the flashing light) in a few days. One issue was the eye sight would randomly inactivate while driving and resolve after turning off car for a half day or a day. However it happens often. Dealer Car repair shop said it could not duplicate. Besides the dash board lights issues; the passenger front window and moonroof would not go up to completely close at random times. Rendering the windows useless to use. These issues continued on and off from purchase thru to-date. The biggest issue came in 2021 & 2022, when the battery would drain. A jump of the battery seem to resolve the problem. Auto store would jump battery and show CCA and CA and Alternator output proficient for the battery. On random times the battery would have the same draining issue. I am not convinced it is a battery issue for these incidents. I believe it is related to an electrical issue for all of these issues. Risk: The components installed and advertised by the Subaru brand influenced me to purchase the vehicle over other vehicles because of its safety records and longevity of the vehicle. This is clearly a false and fraudulent marketing. The Subaru has failed to provide my confidence as a consumer of its safety record. I am extremely uncomfortable driving the vehicle more than 30 miles locally because of fear it will breakdown or I will be stranded. Even locally, I have had to purchase a AAA membership at an extra expense to ensure some means of assistance. Recently, within 2 days I have had ti use my membership for a drained battery. I am now seeing many Subaru owners make similar complaints.

Vehicle only has 42,000 miles and I'm already on my 2nd replacement battery. Continuous battery drain by the Controller Area Network (CAN) causes premature/sudden battery failure. My battery is already groaning on morning starts and the temps are only in the 40s. Subaru needs to correct the problem, not just help pay for replacement batteries. There's no telling where you'll be when the battery dies.

•Yes available upon request. My Subaru Outback has issues starting up even with a battery that tests good. The problem started off as intermittent and continues to happen more often. •I bought this car for Ohio winters and I’m worried me and my kids could get stranded with a drained battery. •The dealership did a 90,000 mile tune up and said to “wait until it breaks or fails all the way to get it fixed, intermittent problems are too hard to diagnose” •Just my local dealership •The battery light flashes, it started happening very sporadically about six months ago, and has progressed into a pretty common occurrence.

I have had two incidents where my battery has died. The first time it happened I had the keys in the ignition, the car was off, while I was talking on my phone. Weird, but I was told not to do that any more. Since than I have made sure the keys were out of the ignition when sitting in the car with the ignition off. We brought a new battery then. The second happened yesterday 10-14-22. I had gone to a business to pick up items. We loaded my car. No keys in the ignition, the car was off. The door and truck were opened for maybe 10 minutes. I get back in the car to start and it’s dead, does not even try to turn over.

Chronic issue with the vehicle draining batteries. I’ve gone through 4 new batteries in the time I’ve owned the vehicle and find that they die in what’s sometimes only a few months after purchase. No lights or other electronic accessories in the Outback are ever left on and we’re careful to keep doors closed when we’re not actively shuffling people or cargo in or out of the vehicle. I just experienced another episode of the battery dying when we returned from vacation to a dead car in the airport parking deck, despite only 15k miles on this battery and all lights being confirmed to have been correctly turned off before our departure. I’m concerned for the safety of my family when the vehicle can’t be trusted to regularly start and the battery could die in situations where my family’s safety could be put in jeopardy.

My battery failed to turn over one day and at the beginning there was a battery icon lit up in the dash, but later did not show up again. I received a jump from another person. The next morning my battery did work but not my radio. Now my radio will work at times and other times, not. I have not taken my car to a dealer or Calle them.

I had a two-year-old battery that kept dying or starting very weakly, intermittently. I had this battery replaced by the dealer 09-16-22 at my expense. This new battery died overnight on 10-01-22, in just two weeks. No lights were left on, the car was locked, the rear hatch was fully closed. I was left stranded far from my home and I had to hitch a ride to buy a jump-starter. I tested the alternator and it is working correctly to charge the battery. I contacted the dealer and they denied that the car model had any electrical problem and said that there were no class action suits or recalls related to this problem. They advised that I bring the car in for a diagnostic test (at my expense). There appears to be a large parasitic electrical drain that is draining the car's battery when the car is off.

Since we've owned the car it has gone through 3 batteries and the blind site and lane assist go on and off all the time. Windows lock. Dealership said there is nothing wrong with the car. My mother is 80 and we have kept the car in the garage most of the time unless it's a grocery trip. She has called my uncle twice this year to boost her because the car wouldn't start. We keep the car on a slow trickle charge and it doesn't make a difference. How are we suppose to sell this?

I have replaced the battery 3 times in 6 years. I see there is a class action lawsuit that I want to join or receive compensation.

The battery has died multiple times from minor power draw. For example, opening the windows when the engine was off or briefly charging and iPhone with the key in auxiliary. I have replaced the battery at my own expense and this continues to happen.

Replaced battery. Two and a half years after replacing battery, I had to replace the battery again. No warning, just didn't start one morning. Battery was dead.

Battery drains very fast. Speakers stop working, window won’t go up, audio system freezes

My 2016 Subaru Outback has required 3 battery replacements between Jan 2020 and July 2022. I have been stranded with a dead battery on 4 separate occasions beginning around April/May of 2016, leaving me unsafe and vulnerable until help could arrive. AAA provided battery jump service twice and strangers helped twice. AAA has provided the 3 battery replacements and I have retained those receipts. Each time they confirmed that this is a highly unusual and likely due to an electrical issue and at some point they will no longer replace the battery under warranty. I have talked to the Subaru dealership about this issue 3 different times and had them test the alternator twice and each time they assured me there were no problems with my electrical system and that my driving habits were the problem. This is objectively false since I have now been informed that Subaru knew full well that the 2016 Outback model I purchased had this exact battery drainage problem due to a defective electrical system. the batteries failed without warning and despite the fact that I charged it at least weekly overnight when not in frequent use. the first battery failure occurred around April or May of 2016 just a few months after i purchased it new.

I have owned this vehicle since July 2016 and in Sep/Oct 2018, Nov 2020, and Sep 2022 I have had to replace my battery. So I have owned my car for just over six years and have replaced my battery three times. My garage states it should last at least 3-5 years per battery.

Car failed to start five times. No cranking. No lights. No nothing. Four times required roadside assistance, jumper, from State Farm Insurance. One time, after a five-minute rest, it started with no problem. Three times battery was replaced. 12/21/18 @ $144.12----3/8/22 @ $167.38----9/16/22 @ $172.78

Car won't start, battery dead. This happened in first year (2016) I bought the car.

Exhaust manifold cracked completely through, causing exhaust fumes in the interior of the car. There is a recall on this part for 2015/16 outback, but only includes certain manufacture dates, my car is not currently included in the recall. This part is clearly defective as the break occurred suddenly under normal driving conditions, pipe is clean, no rust.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated she pull the window bottom for the front passenger side window to roll up automatically, she stated the window rolled shut but rolled down again. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, and they stated that it may be a sensor that needed to be replaced that was triggering the anti-entrapment. The contact stated she tried resetting the one-touch feature, but it did not repair the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 5,000.

The rear passenger side child lock will not disengage. The child lock is engaged when the dog is in the back seat and disengaged otherwise. The lock was engaged once and will not disengage. If adults are riding in the back seat and there is an emergency, they are limited to the driver's side to exit. If the driver's side child lock mechanism fails, they will be forced to rely on someone to open the door from the outside. I feel this is a massive safety concern and could be potentially dangerous.

Battery discharges too quickly, leaving me with a car that won't start. I've already replaced the battery once - to the tune of over $300 because I needed roadside assistance - and I'm looking at having to do it again. I've been stranded multiple times and have had to find someone to jump start my car. I just ordered a $200 car jumper so I don't get stranded again.

This incident occurred on Friday July 29, 2022 @ 5pm. I was pulling into a parking space while my foot was on the brake I proceeded to put the car in park when the car suddenly lunged forward into the concrete patio of the Market/Store. I was in disbelief at what just happened. I would happily make my car available for inspection. I want to find out what is wrong with the car. I believe this could happen again and I am fearful for my life and the lives of others. I was so lucky that the table and chairs were roped off that evening for some reason. People could have been sitting or walking there at the time of this incident. This incident has not been reproduced or confirmed by the dealer or independent service center. I brought the car to the Subaru dealer for them to do a diagnostic test and any other things needed to give me some answers & repairs. I was told no issues were found. They also told me they would like to have my car for a week so they could drive it & do more test. I asked for a loaner and they said they could not do that. I can’t afford to rent a car for a week. And I feel they will come back to me with the same answer of not being able to find an issue. I have had this car for almost 3 years and I park by putting my foot on the brake and then shift into park. There was a malfunction! What it was I don’t know. But I do know something went very wrong with the vehicle. There was never any warning lamps, messages or other symptoms of the problem prior to this failure.

The battery keeps going dead for no obvious reason(s). The battery was tested at an auto repair shop and was determined to be fine but, nonetheless, continues to go dead.

Hello, Since February, we have replaced our battery 3 times. Eventually we discovered from a mechanic that the car had a parasitic draw that will drain the battery if the car is not driven every day. We put the battery on a trickle charger every night just in case. Two days ago, the car would not start after sitting in a parking lot for two hours. The AAA guy's first question was "is that a 2015 or 16?". When asked why, he responded "This happens all the time because the computer keeps self-checking and it drains the battery." So now we have a car that could leave us stranded at any time, and based on the number of lawsuits against Subaru for electrical drainage of batteries of their vehicles from 2015-2020, we have a terminal issue that Subaru is well aware of but refuses to acknowledge. This is unacceptable. Doesn't this qualify as gross negligence under some consumer law? Maybe instead of producing commercials with dogs driving their cars, they stand by their customers and fix their mistakes.

My 2016 Subaru Outback has some kind of an electrical malfunction such that the battery drains rapidly. I have had to replace the battery in my car four times since purchase in 2016. I am now on my fifth battery in six years of ownership. Most recently, my battery died today 7/5/22, and required replacement.

Dead battery. Replaced battery twice since owning vehicle. Will not start even with trying to jump.

I’ve had my Outback for almost 6 years. I’m on my third battery. Recently in the past 3 months the battery I’ve had since 2/21 keeps going dead. It will not hold a charge and goes dead at inconvenient times. I live 30 miles from Reno and driving there for a meeting after which I try to start my car and it’s dead. I can start it with jumper cables and then I drive home. With normal driving the battery has gone dead three more times recently. I’ve taken it to Les Schwab and they’ve checked their battery and its good and so is my charging system. This last time I took it to the Subaru dealer and they said there is nothing wrong with the car. So why is my battery failing me and leaving me stranded? I make sure that no lights are on, doors open and everything is off, but I still have a dead car that I have to use a jump to start. I’m afraid to go someplace with a car I can’t rely on to start. I have about 75,000 miles on my car. The battery draining issues are very difficult to fix when Subaru says there is nothing wrong with my car. I get no warning when the battery will just go dead and I can be stranded.

The battery constantly drains until dead when not driven for as short of time as one day. My wife has been left stranded at home and work multiple times and had to rely on strangers for assistance. The problem was inspected and confirmed by mechanics here in NC. Multiple car care businesses confirmed that the problem is not with the battery itself but that 2016+ Subaru Outbacks have this problem and for which Subaru of America is under lawsuit for. There were no warnings. The problem was identified as persistent in the fall of 2019 while it was not driven as frequently, but the car battery drained unexpectedly on occasion before then. We purchased a new battery once, but we do not have the invoice.

Windshield cracked

The cam tower sealant failed, allowing a leak at less than 70,000 miles driven.

I’m on my third battery. Since date of purchase the car has a battery drain issue that cannot be resolved. Minimal electoral use while the car is not running causes the car to not turn over. It is a safety issue because this car could leave me stranded.

Battery drains quickly. Car will not start when it has been unused for as little as a day.

Windshield is very susceptible to cracking. I had a small stone hit our windshield in spring 2020 that made a huge crack in the windshield and required replacement and re-calibration of eyesight which was quite an expense. Yesterday, I was driving and a very small stone hit the windshield and again the windshield is cracked and will need replacing. I was not behind a truck or any construction vehicle and the stone was very tiny. I have never had a replace a windshield before and now this is twice in less than two years.

Experienced intermittent starting problems, with other odd warning light behaviors, including unable to turn them off to try again. I know another 2016 Outback owner that was given a new battery at no charge. I paid $203.60 for new battery on 03/02/2022

I bought this used 2016 Subaru Outback about a year and a half ago from McCords Vancouver Dealership. I've had the battery dying problem ever since I got it. I have had to call AAA for jump starts. I took the car into my mechanic because the "change warning light" had been on when I turned off the ignition the night before, and it was still blinking the next morning when I came out to start the car. He suggested that I go to Costco to get the battery replaced because it was down to only 22% efficient. They declined for several reasons. It wasn't the battery fault, it was the car! I am 92 years old and disabled. I can't get stuck on a freeway with a dead battery. I am still looking for someone to fix it. I bought this car because I assumed that a newer car would be more dependable. Boy was I wrong! I have already spent a lot of money trying to fix it. [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

2016 Subaru Outback, original owner, the battery constantly drains in this car. I have come out to a dead battery many times, and have had to jump and service my battery several times a year. I have had my battery replaced at least once as well. This seems to be a constant issue, and after reading up on other owners of same and similar models, it looks like it is a software and electrical system issue. I am looking into the class action lawsuit, but think that this should be a recall and repair of these systems, as I must jump and service my battery several times a year. Thank you.

The transmission, without warning, stopped functioning.

Complete electrical failure after battery completely drained during normal driving conditions. Car has required 4 battery replacements since ownership when car was brand new. Subaru has denied warranty claims for this. Battery continues to drain causing car to become inoperable until battery is replaced.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while his wife was parking the vehicle, the brake pedal was depressed but the vehicle accelerated forward going down a hill. The vines from the woods prevented the vehicle from going into a lake. The contact’s wife later received medical attention for an injury to her left leg. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where it remained. The vehicle was not deemed totaled by the insurance company. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and sent an investigator to remove the black box from the vehicle. The manufacturer later informed the contact that, through their investigation findings, the floor mat below the accelerator pedal and the EZ pass mounted on the front windshield caused the failure. The manufacturer provided the contact with a printout of the vehicle manual. The failure mileage was approximately 38,000. The VIN was unavailable.

I was turning around a bend, going approximately 35mpg, when the wheels no longer were turning as if not responding to the direction of the wheel, almost like it was operating independently of the steering column. The automobile slammed into the curb on the left of the road, damaging the alignment.

When trying to put the vehicle in park, the key will not release from the engine. After 10-15 minutes of trying, finally it will release, but in reading forums, thousands of customers have had similar issues. It seems to be a very known problem.

Car will repeatedly will not start. This has happened many times. New battery and with in weeks would not start again. Had battery checked and alternator both work fine. This is a safety issue if you need your vehicle for and emergency and it will not start.

This is the 4th battery in my 2016 Outback limited. Three battery replacements in 6 years. See mechanic's report that the charging system tested good but the battery was bad. He found that there is a constant draw on the battery of .726 amps after 20-30 minutes after shut down of the car. There should not be more than .05 amp draw. He said he'd have to test every line of electrical draw on the battery in order to see what is drawing power and not shutting off. That would cost 2 hours of additional labor. I did not want to spend $250 in labor to find out why Subaru malfunctions. I bought a subaru for safety and reliability, not to be isolated with a dead battery. I have needed to jump the dead batteries many times when the car would not start.

My vehicle battery died and I replaced it. The next day the new battery was found to be dead. I check the car battery terminals and found a parasitic drain of the battery. I have tried charging the battery several times and within 30 minutes the battery is dead. This issue can cause the driver of the vehicle to be stranded and put them in a dangerous situation.

We are original owners. Starting a month ago, after car sat for a couple of days, battery was 100% discharged. Jump started and drove for 30 minutes, then parked. Two days later, battery 100% discharged. Since original battery, had tested and shown to be weak. Bought and installed new battery. Three days of not being driven later, new battery 100% discharged. Unsafe in that, we could be left stranded if were to occur if car left at airport while on short trip, when camping, etc. This is a widely reported problem that Subaru is being sued for. There appears to be an unknown parasitic charge.

Two windshields cracked in 6 years - this is a safety issue that should not happen.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that upon defrosting the windshield and clearing it from the heavy ice that had collected on the windshield during an ice storm, he noticed that there was a 30-inch long crack at the bottom of the windshield. The dealer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the manufacturer. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the repair of the windshield was not covered because the VIN was not included in Technical Service Bulletin Number: 12-192-15R; however, the manufacturer provided the contact with a coupon for the repair of the windshield. The failure mileage was approximately 78,000.

The child lock in the back passenger door is stuck .

2016 Subaru Outback (purchased new) with severe electrical problems in the form of (frequent) battery discharge/non-start. This has been a reoccurring issue since early 2017 and is still a problem, even after replacement of the previous battery. I've had the replacement battery tested on several occasions after recharging and the result has always been that the battery is in good operating order. Subsequent alternator tests show the alternator is charging within manufacturer specifications. I've performed multiple tests after fully recharging the batter on several occasions, making sure all electrical accessories have remained (off) for extended periods of time, and the battery continues to discharge. The electrical system has been tested with a professional scan tool, on multiple occasions, and has yielded no adverse results. There has never been any vehicle warning indicators activate to indicate a problem. Today (2/25/2022) I had to have my Outback jump started 3 times in route to my home 65 miles away. The car died on the road shortly after the first jump, and again after turning the car off to refuel. I looked online to see if anyone else has had similar issues and found the battery discharge/non-start issue to be widespread....and Subaru seems to have been aware of the issue as early as 2017 according to a TSB Subaru sent to all dealers alerting of a potential electrical problem, but providing no solution. This is a SAFETY ISSUE. If access to an operable car were ever needed in an emergency situation (or) a vehicle lost power while in operation causing an accident resulting in injury or death due to a documented issue Subaru was aware of, but neglected to address, would be tragic. Not only for owners of the affected automobiles, but also any other parties involved. This issue should be immediately investigated & addressed by the NHTSA. thank you.

NUMBER: WUJ-95 - Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking recall that affects cars produced as below Model Year Carline Affected Production Dates 2015-2016 Legacy 12/16/2013 - 9/30/2015 2015-2016 Outback 12/09/2013 – 9/30/2015 Affects cars outside this date. My 2016 Subaru Outback was built in March of 2016 and the exact same part broken at the exhaust bellows, requiring a $2600 repair. Instead of a issuing a recall Subaru is offering allowances to the repair. The service advisor stated that he has performed many of the same repair outside the production dates listed on recall WUJ-95 - Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking, The production dates need to be extend to include all cars that have defective exhaust bellows and catalytic convertors. I have images and video of the inspection.

WENT OUT TO MY CAR THIS MORNING AND NOTICED A LINEAR 6 INCH CRACK IN MY WINDSHIELD-IT EXPANDED FROM NEAR THE WIPER ON THE DRIVER SIDE UPWARD AND WITHIN 2 HOURS ANOTHER CRACK BEGAN ABOUT 5 INCHES LATERAL TO THE EVER EXPANDING FIRST CRACK WHICH IS NOW GREATER THAN 12 INCHES LONG. I CALLED DEVOE SUBARU IN NAPLES FLORIDA AND ASKED ABOUT WINDSHIELD CRACK AND REPAIR-I HAD BOUGHT THE CAR THERE 3 YEARS AGO. I WAS INFORMED THEY DO NOT REPAIR WINDSHIELDS, NEVER DID THEY MENTION THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE OUTBACK. I CONTACTED SATELLITE WINDSHIELD REPAIR AND GAVE THEM MY INSURANCE INFO AND HOPEFULLY MY PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE WILL COVER THE WINDSHIELD AND THE EYESIGHT CALIBRATION.I THEN GOOGLED THE ISSUE AND FOUND THAT THIS IS A REAL AND FREQUENT ISSUE WITH THE SUBARU.

on 2/8/22 I brought my car in for service to an independent repair shop. The service was for the 120k standard service. I had been noticing exhaust smells. They checked the exhaust and found "exhaust leak from center exhaust flange, and exhaust leave from exhaust manifold". They recommended a complete replacement of the exhaust manifold "under Subaru recall". They printed the recall for me. It is WUJ-95. Which recalls 2015-2016 outbacks for this issue. When I contacted the dealer they indicated my vehicle was not under this recall. Subaru Customer care indicated the same as did your website. Subaru said that the recall was initiated by NHTSA and that until NHTSA indicated my vehicle was included in the recall they would not repair it. My vehicle has exactly the same issue as what was found for the recall. The only thing I can assume is that my actual 2016 Subaru outback was manufactured after 9/30/15. I cannot find the exact date of manufacture so cannot tell if that is the issue. However, that actual manufacture date should not be controlling as my 2016 outback has exactly the same issue as the recall. If 2016 outbacks manufactured after 9/30/15 have this same issue they should be included in this recall. I am asking you to review this issue and include my vehicle in the recall.

The battery dies and needs a jump start very often. Got the battery tested and there is no issue with the battery. My observation is when the vehicle is parked and the parking brake is ON then the battery discharges.

My car spontaneously burst into flames after I parked it. I had left the car parked and locked in a parking lot next to a rental house and went in to prepare dinner. 20 minutes later my friends arrived at the scene and alerted us to the fact that my car was engulfed in flames. It seems that the fire originated in the engine somehow, but exactly what started it is unclear. There was no accident or collision, and no foul play. Security cameras in the area couldn't see much, but indicate that the vehicle burst into flames pretty much just after I had left it parked and locked.

Issue with the vehicle's exhaust being loud - upon dealership's multi-point inspection, cracked bellows was identified. Issue that was identified and fixed is described in NHTSA ID Number: 10199936, Exhaust Pipe Front (EPF) Bellows Cracking, however the VIN of my vehicle was not included (although it is the same make and model year). Request that this issue be investigated to determine if additional VINs should be included.

We have replaced about 5 windshields in this vehicle since we have owned it. The cracks form from the bottom of the windshield in the black area where a rock couldn't possibly chip the windshield. Subaru refuses to recognize this vin number as part of their class action law suit that was just settled and has refused to extend the warranty on this particular vehicle although they are covering replacement windshields for other 2016 Subaru Outbacks. They clearly recognize that there is a problem but are refusing to admit fault. You do not need to look far to find numerous complaints in forums on the internet with people describing this exact problem.

I OWN A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40:MPH ON A LOCAL MAIN ROAD (CT RTE 10) THE EYESIGHT PRE-COLLISION BRAKE ASSIST SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO COMPLETELY STOP. THE BRAKES THEN RELEASED AND I WAS ABLE TO CONTINUE DRIVING. THIS IS THE SECOND INCIDENT WITH IN A MONTH THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 104,000 THERE WERE NO PRIOR WARNING LIGHTS OR ENGINE LIGHTS ON. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN INSPECTED BY THE DEALER. THIS SUDDEN STOPPING CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT.

I Had to jump start battery on several occasions, leaving myself and my family stranded. I took the car to my dealer on 12/3/2018. Dealer (Glanzmann Subaru) could not identify problem, performed two software updates. I received no information or explanation of the nature of the problem. A month later the problem repeated. I took the car to dealer on 1/16/2019 (mileage 25,941).They tried to tell me that the battery was leaking, but it was not. They replaced the battery and I had to pay the cost for a new battery, $123.97. On 1/27/2021 (mileage 39,172) the new battery failed in a similar manner. The dealership insisted that there were no problems with the charging system. They replaced the battery ( no cost) and performed an ECM update. They were insistent that there were no systemic issues with the electrical system. After the fact, I discovered that this is a universal problem with a number of Subaru vehicles. During a recent visit to my Subaru dealership I inquired as to whether a solution has been determined and will my car be fixed before the new battery also fails. They were very vague and non-informing. I am hesitant to venture far from home with this vehicle since I cannot trust the car or Subaru's support. I can provide dealer service records in support of this issue.

Multiple instances of the battery dying after being parked for a few days. New battery did not resolve the problem and diagnostics indicate that the battery is not the problem. Unable to use vehicle when it cannot be started. Most recent incident was 1/18/2022. First occurred shortly after I purchased the vehicle.

In January 2020 my Outback failed to start. Battery was totally discharged and had to be jumpstarted. Took the car to dealer where technician tested battery and said it was good.I had him recharge the battery and test it again. It failed and they installed a new exact same battery under warranty. I was very pleased. However, the battery failed several more times over the year and had to be jumpstarted every time.I am returning to the service dept on 01/18/22, when I am demanding a new stronger battery or fix the parasitic draw which I discovered is causing the problem. I will return here later to inform you of outcome. Thank you for providing a place to report this.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that on multiple occasions, her vehicle would fail to start up without warning. The contact had taken her vehicle to the dealer numerous times and had several battery replacements performed; despite each replacement, the failure persisted. The manufacturer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 12,000.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while approaching the vehicle in the morning, she noticed a L-shaped crack in the windshield which originated on the passenger’s side of the windshield. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer and was informed that an issue with the windshield wiper had caused the fracture. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 46,000.

I'm having continuing issues with premature discharging of the battery even though I now have a heavy duty battery and also carry an emergency jump start battery in case. My Outback is equipped with Onstar so it does draw power at all times, my relatively new Optima battery has shown being drawn down to 25% charge on the Optima battery charger after only 24 hours. Of non use.

oil leak from power train

On November 15, 2021 my car was in the garage as normal. I started my car and I heard a "pop" I was headed out my driveway is when I notice a crack at the bottom of the windshield that is about 3" high and then curves for about 4".

Replacement battery in under 35,000 mile Subaru discharged while sitting in garage for several weeks. There have been zero earlier problems with electrical system other than the original battery dying after about three years. When jump started the charging system seemed to work and the car started after sitting overnight. We are in a very cold northern environment and if the vehicle will not start it could strand us in an unsafe setting. Coming back to a parked car that may have been left at an airport parking lot to find it would not start would be very inconvenient and expensive to remedy.

Battery dies when parked for a few days or not driven enough. Needs to be jumped several times per week.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that while stationary or while in motion, the tailgate would independently open without warning. The contact stated that due to the failure, the battery was drained. The vehicle was towed to a dealer. The dealer was unable to duplicate or diagnose the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and a case was filed; the contact was referred to NHTSA for further assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.

Battery rapidly drains leaving me stranded. 4th battery that has been replaced by dealer and the same thing happens. No warning lights or low battery lights. Dies from 1 week to over nite. Remote won't even open the car. Dealer refuses to fix the battery drain and keeps saying it isthe battery that is bad but replaces with the same battery which fails ! I see where there are lawsuits against Subaru but I am not getting any help at all from corporate or dealer. Personal safety and being stranded and unreliable are my main concerns.

In my 2016 Outback, the OEM battery died after 3 years. AAA put in a replacement and gave me a 3 year full replacement warranty. That battery died after 2 years while in a gas station – had to get pushed away from the pump and luckily the guy behind me had jumper cables. That go me home and I got a brand spanking new AAA battery free of charge. One incident – stuff happens. Two? No way. I was at Subaru this morning for an unrelated item and the service guy said that everything electrically was okay. The problem is that if the car sits idle for more than 3 days the computer starts draining the battery and that can cause irreparable harm which can eventually lead to premature failure. SOLUTION: Make sure to run the car at least every three days. REALLY????

This is the 6th time this week the car starts fine in the morning, I stop at a gas station or store come out and its dead! Concerning safety this is a major deal for me as I take care of my mother whom is on oxygen at 2L if this happens with her in the car or by herself,, it could very easily turn into a life or death situation! This issue seems to be a recurring issue as I have replaced the battery already and used AAA more than a few times in the past year. Car was purchased new off the lot in 2016. There is currently less than 35000 miles on the odometer. This is beyond upsetting and a very dangerous situation living in Colorado. Hypothetically if it was below zero peoples lives are 100% at risk due to a issue that I feel is being covered up by subaru. What options do I have? Is this a potentially very serious issue that I should start thinking about getting lawyers involved?

Windshield got a very large crack from me trying to kill a bug inside the car. Windshield is thin. I didn’t hit it that hard with my hand. Had to be replaced. The repair service tech explained that the only replacements for my model are of the same thinness as the original, and to seek the recall glass replacement should it be thicker and safer.

Key sticks in ignition and won’t release. Takes from a few attempts to several minutes of restarting the car, putting car in drive and then park, turning the wheel etc.

Battery is dead every morning

New battery, less than 10K miles completely drained when vehicle was not used for 3 days. Similar problem with previous battery, died with 10minutes or radio use.

Battery corrosion on terminal post and drained for no reason, failed battery test and had to be replaced. Windshield has imperfections throughout and cracks easily. Shift mechanism will not release the vehicle key while in park. Squeaking sound emanating from passenger seat belt buckle. Excessive exhaust noise and odor from exhaust pipe. Rear hatch will not close completely unless slammed very forcefully. Belts under the hood squeak very loudly when started and subside when warmed up.

Our vehicle has factory-installed child safety locks incorporated into the rear passenger doors. The safety lock on the rear passenger-side has failed in the "engaged" position, and cannot be disengaged using the small black switch in the door. Consequently, the only way the door can be opened is by using the outside handle. We see this as a serious safety issue, since in an emergency egress situation, the only way a passenger in the right rear seat can exit the vehicle is if someone opens the door from the outside. Looking on online forums, there are many incidents of this same problem. However, Subaru has not chosen to correct this problem for cars that are outside of vehicle warranty.

The battery in my car has been replaced 3 times (twice by the dealer and once by me) and the alternator once due to deep discharge, in addition I have had to "jump" the car one or more times. Subaru has paid the cost of all repairs for this issue despite the fact they don't admit there is an issue. In addition to the battery replacement there was an ECM update done this last time to reduce battery drain. There is no warning or indication that a failure is about to occur. This last time I moved the car from my garage to my driveway and 4 hours later, the car would not start and the battery measured 4.25 volts--no lights were left on, doors open, seat heaters on etc. The concern is that it is impossible to tell if the car has drained the battery and it can leave us stranded anywhere we have turned it off. I contacted Subaru of America this last time and they said not even to "jump" it as it would possible loose valuable error codes. I have their roadside assistance and even though I received a call confirming that a flatbed would arrive within 60 mins. it never showed. This car has the potential to leave us stranded anywhere at any time and if locked the key fob does not work and even if I can get in, the car can't be moved due to no power to release the parking break.

Battery dies after car is parked for more than 3 days. Car is available for inspection. I have been stranded/inconvenienced at least 5 times. Problem was solved through AAA, family jumpstart help, etc. Verbally reported to dealer, service writer comment made it sound like it must have been my fault or just the needs of the computer components. No warnings or symptoms.

Windshield cracks easily. On my 5th windshield, just replaced 2 weeks ago and it’s cracked again. The windshield cracks easily even with minor rock chips. This is the 5th windshield on this car.

I have just had to put my fifth battery in my 2016 Subaru outback. I have experienced a dead battery twice. The first time this happened I was at a remote campsite and had the stock battery in the car. That battery lasted 25k miles. I brought my car to the dealer and they did a software update. Since then I have had two new batteries.

For months, there have been incidents of battery drain where the vehicle is unable to be started without a jump charge. I have replaced the battery several times; electrical testing by the dealership does not diagnose any problem.

Windshield cracked without any cause

i am about to replace battery in my 2016 subaru outback for the fourth time. obviously an ongoing problem with this vehicle . my wife had to wait 4 hours for subaru roadside assistance to respond with tow. All replacement batteries done by dealerships. No warning signs. .

We have experienced slight acceleration issues when at standstill. For example parking in our garage, nosing to the front and the car will lurch forward. We always been able to control it but we do have to watch out. Decided to report after reading issues by other owners.

The windshield cracked without receiving any kind of impact to it. No rock chip, sudden jolt, extreme temperatures or other weather event precipitated the cracking.

I drove my car several miles to a ferry without any problems. I turned off the ignition and the car sat on the ferry for less than five minutes. When I tried to start the car, the battery was completely dead. The ferry driver had to return to the island side with just my car, which they pushed off the ferry. My husband came and jump started the battery. The car was driving very jerkily after that for about ten minutes. We immediately took the car to an independent service center technician, who tested the battery and said the battery was fine. We stopped to fill it up, thinking maybe there was air in the fuel tank or something. When we restarted it, the problem was gone. I researched online and discovered that electrical/battery problems are common with Subaru Outbacks. This was/is a safety problem because apparently I could be stranded anywhere. This car has died in the driveway many times in the five years we have owned it. This was the first time it died on a trip. There was no warning message or symptom of any kind - car was driving fine, then completely dead after five minutes of being off.

2016 3.6 Subaru Outback has required battery replacement 4 times. If the battery dies while operating the car a dangerous shutdown of various electrical systems. This has happened twice, one instance no power steering, the next time the braking systems engaged. In both instances I was fortunately at a stop. If this happens while the car is moving especially at a high rate of speed, the results would be catastrophic.

Two different batteries have been completely drained in the last two weeks. The first time I thought it was that the the current 27 month old battery had failed. There were no warning lights or symptoms of electrical issues either time. We just came out to a completely drained battery. After installing a new battery two weeks ago, the battery was drained down to 1.2 amps yesterday morning after 16 hours of non use. A mechanic diagnosed it as a parasitic draw and we were able to recharge the battery overnight. Now the brand new battery has been weakened by the complete draining. We also no longer have confidence in leaving the car idle for any length of time. Isn't there a software update to fix this issue?

The contact's wife owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that since owning the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start up after multiple attempts without warning. Since owning the vehicle, the battery was replaced four times. The contact initially had the vehicle jump-started and taken to the dealer. The battery was replaced once by the dealer and replaced out of pocket three times. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 20,000.

Shift mechanism is not releasing the vehicle key while in Park

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated while driving 65 MPH, the vehicle inadvertently started shuddering and jerking. The contact also stated that the vehicle was making abnormal sounds. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact stated that she was able to continue to drive the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the transmission had failed. Then, the vehicle was taken to the dealer who tests drove the vehicle and diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they would replace the transmission, but she would be responsible for the cost of the labor. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 107,000.

Car has 66,000 miles on it. vin#[XXX]--- HORN DOES NOT WORK IN ANY POSITION. Is available for inspection at any time. Nearest dealer is State Line Subaru - Somerset, MA Have contacted dealer and have received no response. Almost caused an accident by failure of the horn. No warning lights or messages. No indication of problems prior to failure. PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

Incident occurred on Interstate 25 Northbound at approximately mm 190. My speed was approximately 70 mph. Weather was dry and about 70 degrees. I was in the next to left lane in 4 lanes of traffic. The moonroof on my 2016 Subaru Outback exploded violently sending glass outward into traffic. I had never heard of this phenomena so when I saw black material from the top of my car going into traffic I thought it was pieces of my roof rack. I pulled over to the shoulder to examine my car and saw a massive hole in the moonroof. Knowing that if I continued shards of glass would continue to be expelled onto the interstate I pulled the remaining pieces of glass into the interior of the car. Not that it mattered, that's where they fell anyway when I opened the moonroof. The pieces of the moonroof fell into the slots for the seatbelts, rendering the drivers side inoperable. It was a miracle that no other car was seriously impacted and that I was able to get home safely. Subaru and any other car manufacturer that is involved with this problem needs to be held accountable for the damages and remedial repairs. This problem should be addressed by the NHTSA immediately.

Unable to turn key to off position when in neutral and unable to remove key from the ignition. In order to get the key out of the ignition, the car needs to be restarted and turned back off or the gear shift needs to be pushed as hard as possible into the neutral position multiple times. With the inability to turn the car totally off and remove the key, there are multiple safety issues that can arise. Was informed that the entire select lever assembly needs to be replaced due to a known issue by Subaru. The issue was reproduced by an independent service center. No warning lamps are illuminated.

model Year 2016 Outback vehicle purchased new in Dec.2015. The OEM 2015 battery was replaced gratis by dealer ( Flemington Subaru) in Feb 2020 at 26,016 mileage. The Feb. 2020 replacement battery was changed Jan.27,2021 by Flemington Subaru due to ‘dead check’ found during a recall service for telematics updating. The Jan.27, 2021 replacement has failed on multiple occasions since installed ~7 months ago. The dealer performed a Battery/Electrical System analysis on 4August,2021which alleged the battery to be “GOOD” with measured 12.63 volts and CCA 571 vs. its CCA 550 rating. Despite adequate miles driven and only several days since the 4 August test the battery is again dead on Aug.8,2021. I possess all pertinent service record invoices relating to battery changes and testing.

Ignition does not release key in a reasonable manner. Must wiggle key, start/stop car multiple times, and wait for 15-20 minutes before the key releases from the ignition. Started as an occasional issue, but has become more and more constant.

Parking shifter sensor is failing intermittently. This prevents removing the key from the ignition. Seems to react better when you throw the shifter into park forcefully.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback The contact stated that after placing the vehicle into PARK, the key could not be removed from the ignition switch. After turning off and restarting the vehicle several times, the key was removed from the ignition switch. The vehicle was diagnosed but was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 72,104.

Battery drains - just goes dead. In the past six months it has happened @4 times. Checked twice at my garage and no problem found. Electrical system and battery checked out. After it is jumped it runs rough and not drivable until computer resets and windows have to be reset by hand. No warning lights of low battery.

Multiple jump starts due to battery dying, even after replacement battery. Car is not reliable, not able to start after not driving it for 2 days.

We purchased this vehicle as a private sale in Nov 2018. In May 2020, the battery failed and was replaced, thinking it had reached end of life.. One month later, in June 2020, this new battery was dead, and was replaced under warranty under the premise that it was a bad battery. In addition, at the time of this 2nd battery replacement, the vehicle was inspected by our dealership to assess why the battery died, and though no direct cause was found, the battery cables were replaced. This July 11th, 2021, the battery was dead once again, and replaced under warranty, again thinking it was a defective battery. Yesterday, July 25th, two weeks after this 3rd new battery replacement, the battery was dead again. No user error was ever noted (no internal light left on, vehicle had been driven regularly every day of the week, etc.). Upon research online, there appears to be a class action lawsuit against Subaru regarding electrical problems that rapidly drain batteries in several Subaru models 2016-2020, which includes our 2016 Outback. We can never know when our battery could fail, and clearly cannot trust this vehicle to start on any given day, which is a serious safety concern. We have been unsuccessful in our attempts to communicate with Subaru customer support. Please investigate this complaint as appropriate. Thank you.

My Outback lost AC/Heat and even after repair at an Outback dealership, it still goes out intermittently. My car battery seems to drain for no reason at all, without any consistency to the drainage of power either. I have it looked at, and the dealership said there isn’t a cause and there isn’t anything that can be done. Back rear door doesn’t lock and unlock with the key fob designation; sets off the alarm when we don’t pay attention to it. Hatch door only lifts about 14 inches upon designation. Has to be manually lifted the rest of the way. Has been fixed once at a dealership, but since returned to the aforementioned diagnosis.

Battery has failed repeatedly, at least 4 or 5 times over the last year. Took to dealer who checked it out and said they found no issues. Please note no lights or doors were left open that would have resulted in a batter drain. Concerned as I have been stranded due to this issue.

The adjustment of the passenger side side view mirror has malfunctioned. The mirror can not be adjusted properly for visibility of cars to the side of the vehicle. Only the driver-side window is operable. All other windows fail to open from the driver side control. The passenger window will no longer operate from the passenger side either. These windows would have to be broken in order to escape the vehicle in some situations (flooding). My mechanic says that this is a common problem in 2016 Subaru Outbacks. No warning lights were activated. A mirror not able to be adjusted for optimum sighting of other vehicles is surely a safety issue.

The car does not recognize that it is in park, and the key gets stuck in the ignition frequently. The only fix is to repeatedly shift in and out of the park position until the key releases (which can take anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes -- it seems to get worse over time). It's a safety concern for various reasons: you can't exit your car quickly in case of emergency -- you can't just leave your vehicle with the keys in the ignition (dangerous/negligent/someone could steal your car). It's also concerning that the car doesn't recognize what gear it is in. This is a widespread issue across Subaru vehicles that is documented in many online forums. The issue was confirmed by the dealership that I went to on my vehicle specifically, but they also knew the source of the problem, before they even looked at the vehicle.

The car drains the battery to the point of not being able to turn the engine on after >10 minutes of playing the radio while the engine isn't turned on. Happened three separate times where I had to request a jump. I replaced the battery with a new one but the problem persists.

The original battery drained when a door is left open for an extended period of time. We replaced the battery in 2019 and also bought a battery booster because of this issue. We thought replacing the battery would fix the, however, the draining issue still occurs from time to time. We didn't think to file a complaint, but saw an article in the news describing the same issue we're experiencing and that a class action lawsuit has been filed against Subaru for this issue, so we decided to file a complaint.

Have had to replace battery twice. A short time leaving a light on drains the battery very quickly.

Several times the battery has been completely drained from something little like the back end opened or door open for a longer period

Battery drains when car is off and parked with no lights on, causing multiple jump starts to the car, and a need to buy a new battery.

original battery dead in less than 2 years, needing replacement in January 2018. Subaru dealer advised replacement, local repair store confirmed it was dead. Purchased replacement local as dealer quote was over $300. The battery was dead, and replaced again in 12/2019, and again in 10/2020. These issues have left us stranded, often in cold/freezing weather. No sign of wearing or issues occurs until the vehicle just does not start. All of our other vehicles have never gone through batteries this frequently. Additionally, with the many batteries (4 total so far, in 6 years, and 80k miles) from multiple sources, I do not believe that defective batteries are the case

Passenger side front seatbelt locked up and became non-functional, unable to be used. This left our passenger without a safe or legal way to ride in the vehicle with all other seats being used. The part was replaced by the dealer under warranty

A small rock chip at bottom of the windshield, near the heated wiper park area, caused multiple cracks across the entire windshield. Replacement was required as visibility was impaired

The battery keeps draining and needing to be replaced. I need a new battery every 18 months or so. Also, please note that there is not one incident. There is a pattern of the battery needing to be replaced.

On my third ( 3 ) battery since 2016.

after having the 2916 Subaru outback detailed, the car wouldn't start, apparently if a door is left open for 10 minutes or more the battery drains, Jump started the vehicle and it starts right up

My battery dies intermittently and will not start until I receive a jump start. it seems to occur after day trips in the mountains,, but no emergency lights come on to indicate a low battery while driving. we have had to get an emergency jump start an now must carry around a spare battery charger to jump start my car. I've had the dealership look at this and they find no issues. I've had both my battery and alternator tested and they are still good. I stopped using my phone charger, thinking that may be the issue, but it still happens. I worry I'll be stranded somewhere and the Jumpstart battery won't be able to give me a kick. This has occurred at least 10 times and is increasing in frequency.

The electrical system drains the battery. It happened first in Feb 2020. Car was locked and could not be opened with manual key, so AAA Roadside Service had to use a bladder and bar to break in and open car, damaging the driver door. There is now constant road noise where it used to be a particularly quiet interior. The battery was completely drained and tested low so they replaced it. One year later, Feb 2021, the same thing happened despite the car being driven every day and the alternator working fine. Four months later it happened again, this time when the car was in long term parking at SFO Intl Airport June 29-July 5. Again they had to pry open the driver door to unlock, battery tested at 40%, alternator tested fine, and AAA replaced the battery still under warranty. We can no longer trust or rely on this car to start and I no longer lock the car in case the problem recurs - I have zero reason to expect it will miraculously stop happening. My wife wants to sell the car.

For the past 6 months out key has become very hard to remove. The ignition system will not disengage and release the key. Multiple methods have been tried and sometimes are effective. Placing the car into park, then neutral, back to park and so on eventually releases the key. The service center said to play with the breaks and shifters to fix the issues. I’ve been reading of multiple problems that keep occurring with these cars.

Unable to remove key from ignition when car is parked. I am unable to leave car without threat of it being stolen. An internet search indicates this is a common problem and repair cost can be several hundred dollars

Battery has died several times over the past few months. The last time (7/3/21) within 48 hours of being fully charged. Subaru replaced the battery several months ago, so it’s a fresh battery. They did not mention the electrical system problems they know about and have known about since 2017.

Over the last 7-8 months. Has gotten progressively worse. With car parked and turned off cannot get key out of ignition. Have to sometimes restart car and move it forward and backward and that doesn’t always release key after turning off. Or move shift lever from park to drive many times and that doesn’t always work. Or turn ignition key back and forth and pushing in on it . Does it on both level parking and inclined parking Has taken as long as 15 minutes to be able to get key out and leave my car. Called three dealerships . One said yes he’s heard of it happening , other to 2 other Subaru dealerships said they have to diagnose the problem . I found 3 technical service bulletins on Nhtsa web site referring to identical problem . It was called “shift lever complete “ for 2016 Subaru Outback and Legacy.Service bulletin# 16-112-18R

The ignition sensor is faulty and doesn't consistently recognize when the car is in park, and as a result, will not release the key from the ignition. After some research, many other Subaru owners have experienced this same issue.

On 8/30/2018, the car wouldn’t start after it was driven to a parking lot. The battery was jumped, car taken home, and then the battery was charged at local car parts store. On 6/7/2021, the car wouldn’t start after two days of no use. The battery was jumped and driven for 30 min. On 6/12/2021, the battery was replaced, and driven intermittently 6/12 and 6/13. On 6/16/2021, the car wouldn’t start with no panel or indicator lights working at all.

The contact owns a 2016 Subaru Outback. The contact stated that the battery had failed on several occasions after starting the vehicle. The contact stated that the battery warning light intermittently flashed during the failure. The contact had taken the vehicle to three separate independent mechanics and had the battery replaced however, the failure persisted after each battery replacement. The contact then took the vehicle to a dealer where the technician discovered that the radio was causing an electrical drain on the battery which could render the battery defective. The battery was replaced for a fourth time and the radio was disconnected however, two weeks after the repair, the battery failed again and the vehicle was returned to the dealer where it remained in their possession. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 68,000.

For the past four years the car has insufficiently charged the battery. On two occasions the car would not start and had to be jumped. At first I attributed it to something I may have done like leaving an interior light on, but after the second incident I found out that other owners of the same car were having similar problems. I called the dealer and they said it might help to install a higher CCA rated battery.I replaced the original battery in 2018 with a higher rated Interstate CCA battery. That battery was also over time not being charged sufficiently and I took it back to the Firestone dealer who installed another Interstate Brand battery replacing it in 2020 under warranty. I called the dealership again and they said there was no reported issues with Subaru Outbacks insufficiently charging and that I just had to drive the car more frequently. So far the car has failed to start on 5 occasions, stranding either myself or my wife, twice in unsafe situations. I now routinely have to charge the battery in my garage about once a month to keep it operational, even after driving the car frequently. On 5/3/2021 I took the car back to the dealer for some service work. I asked again if there was any fix for the charging issue. They tested the battery and recorded that it "came up as deeply discharged". They said there was "No abnormal draw found ---vehicle charging normally."

The issue I am reporting is an issue with the electrical system that is causing battery to drain to dear overnight. This past Sunday I experienced a completely dead battery without any warning lamps or messages and no prior symptoms to indicate battery was not charging. After replacing the battery the next day, the car started with no problem. However, the next morning that brand new battery was dead. After jump-starting and allowing to run for a period of time to recharge the battery, I turn the car off and restarted several times. Once again, the next morning the battery was completely dead. Upon replacement of the newest battery, I checked the vehicle to ensure that nothing was left on that would cause the battery to drain overnight. There appears to be some type of "parasitic drain" within the electrical system that is causing this rapid battery drain. Luckily, this did not take place while my family and I were traveling which would have potentially placed us in a position which would have put our safety at risk. After researching information regarding this on the internet, it appears to be a known problem with my year and model vehicle.

Lately when i put the car in park I can not remove the key. I need to either play around with the shift lever or usually start the car, back up, and forward and try again until I get the key out. Not a good solution. I have been reading about the problem of the defective shift selector and the associated service bulletin # 16-112-18R. I would like to get this fixed rather than using the on-line suggestions of jumpering the switch which seems like a possible safety problem. Because this is happening due to a defective shift selector I think Subaru should be picking up the cost to make this right. The car has only 45,000 miles on it. I have contacted Subaru but ahve not heard back from them yet. The dealer cost to repair this is approximately $600

Key does not come out of ignition after turning car off. Gets stuck frequently (almost everytime I drive the car).

continual drain causing battery to go dead we are on battery number 4 since buying the vehicle new in August 2016 Have taken it to 2 different dealers and are told there is nothing wrong. Have been stranded multiple times both day and night causing unsafe environment while trying to wait for a jump start

My battery dies often and doesn’t seem to hold a charge as long as a typica new car I’ve had to jump it 6 times in the last 8 months- Regarding the side marker lane assist- it has been diagnosed as a loose sensor and had been re adjusted by dealership multiple times but end up failing again a couple weeks later.

During winter vacation in Upper Michigan my 2015 Subaru Outback did not start, (I'm from Illinois appox 45 miles west of Chicago) nothing electrical in it worked at all. Battery was totally drained. There were no problems prior to this happening. Went to try to start vehicle the next morning and to no avail. We did happen to find someone who was able to jump start our vehicle. Had to buy a new battery.

My 2016 Subaru OUTBACK has experienced 6 separate incidents where my vehicle battery was inexplicably drained, and hence the entire electrical system was shut down. I was unable to start it without an external boost in each occasion. Fortunately these incidents posed no safety threat to me or others as the car was parked at my home, or in a parking lot. Unfortunately, the problem has not been reproduced or confirmed by my Subaru Dealer, Gillman, in Schertz, TX although extensive diagnostics were performed on 2 occasions by Gillman. My OUTBACK has not been inspected by manufacturer, police, or insurance representatives. There were no warning lamps illuminated because of a total electrical failure, and no other symptoms of the problem prior to the 6 failures. The dates for the 5 incidents of total electrical failure are the following: (1) 6/18/2018 at 1240 Kahili Street, Kailua, HI. AAA replaced my original Subaru battery (I do not have original AAA receipt, but other documentation) (2) 10/13/2018 at 1240 Kahili Street, Kailua, HI. AAA replaced my battery. (3) 9/16/2019 at 306 FM 621, San Marcos, TX. AAA replaced my battery. (4) 7/27/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. AAA replaced my battery. (5) 9/5/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. AAA replaced by battery. (6) 10/7/2020 at 648 Sydney Circle, New Braunfels, TX. Gillman Subaru removed an aftermarket device for corrosion protection installed by SERVCO Subaru, Honolulu.

Battery failure numerous times, battery replaced 1/02/19. Battery drain several times during 2017 through 2021 .

Windshield spontaneously developed a crack; there had been no impact to the vehicle or windshield.

On two occasions, car would not start. Road service was able to start it by jumping. Third occasion of no start a jump start did not work. The battery was about three years old. I was unaware of the five year warrantee so I brought the battery to a auto parts store to have it check. Was told it won't accept a charge but the charging system was good. I purchased a new battery but about a year later the same dead battery issue happened. Checking to make sure that I did not leave a door open or any electrical component on, I jumped started the car. BUT each time I start the car, I hold my breath hoping it will start. I even purchased a portable charging kit just in case I am unable to get road service.

Battery drains for any small electrical left on appears to be electrical defective

My car's battery dies frequently for no apparent reason. No faults have been reported by the dealer or repair shops during service calls. I had to purchase a jump starter in order to be able to start and operate my car.

IN JUNE 2020 I COMPLAINED THAT MY BATTERY DRAINED TO THE POINT WHERE CAR WOULD NOT START A FEW TIMES CAUSING ME TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. I TOOK CAR TO MY SUBARU DEALER AND THEY TOLD ME THE BATTERY WAS OK AND ALTERNATOR WAS CHARGING. I INSISTED THE BATTERY BE REPLACED AND IT WAS. THROUGHOUT THE REST OF 2020 AND INTO 2021 I STILL EXPERIENCE BATTERY DRAINING. I TRY TO DRIVE THE CAR EVERY WEEK SO THE BATTERY WILL NOT GO DEAD. THE BATTERY DOES SEEM LOW AS THE STARTER MOTOR SOUNDS LIKE IT TURNS SLOWER THAN USUAL. DUE TO COVID-19, I HAVE NOT BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO SUBARU YET TO HAVE THE CAR EVALUATED. I AM RAISING THE COMPLAINT HERE BECAUSE I AM SEEING ONLINE THAT OTHERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

FREQUENT AND UNEXPLAINED BATTERY DRAIN. THE CAR HAS 47,520 MILES AND WE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AND HAVE HAD 2 INCIDENTS WHERE THE BATTERY HAS COMPLETELY DIED LEAVING US STRANDED ON THE HIGHWAY.

FREQUENT BATTERY REPLACEMENT IN 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED 9/29/2016. DEALER REPLACED THE BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY ON 12/11/2017, DEALER REPLACED AGAIN ON 3/22/2019 WITH SUBARU BATTERIES BOTH TIMES. I REPLACED IT AGAIN ON 1/01/2021 WITH A WALMART BATTERY. MADE THIS COMPLAINT ON 5/15/2021. 3 BATTERIES IN 4 YEARS AND 8 MONTHS SEEMS TO INDICATE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM

COMPLETE DRAINING OF BATTERY JUST SITTING THERE FOR NO REASON... WE SEE THIS IS AN ENORMOUS PROBLEM WITH OUTBACKS, AND WE HAVE ONE WITH GREAT PROBLEMS LEAVING US STRANDED !

THE BATTERY BARLEY STARTS THE CAR. WE HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWO TIMES. WE HAVE TO CARRY A BATTERY STARTER PACK WITH USE, BECAUSE IT WILL NOT START SOME TIMES.SO WE HAVE TO JUMP IT. WE DO NOT TRUST THE CAR TO START. THE BATTERY HAS GOOD CLEAN CONNECTIONS, IT JUST SEEMS TO LOOSE IT CHARGE WHEN IT SITTING.

I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE MY BATTERY TWICE ALREADY IN 4 YEARS

BATTERY WENT BAD AFTER BEING REPLACED JUST 3 MONTHS PRIOR. THEY DIDN’T WANT TO ADMIT IT.

THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED IN 2017 (I PAID) FOR THIS 2016 OUTBACK. IN NOVEMBER 2020, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED BATTERY NEED TO BE REPLACED, I PAID AND REPLACED BATTERY. LAST WEEK, MAY 2021, DURING OIL CHANGE, SUBARU DEALER STATED THAT BATTERY "FAILED" AND THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY FOR NO CHARGE. IT APPEARS THE BATTERY IS DRAINING RAPIDLY 24/7 BECAUSE OF A LIKELY SOFT WARE PROBLEM.

THE BATTERY RANDOMLY DRAINS DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE IT WON'T START, IF IT HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN A FEW DAYS. WE REPLACED THE FACTORY BATTERY WITH A LARGER AFTERMARKET BATTERY WHEN THE CAR WAS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD, BECAUSE IT KEPT GOING DEAD. THE FACTORY SERVICE DEALER TOLD US THAT THEY HAD NEVER HEARD OF THIS, SO WE ENDED UP REPLACING THE BATTERY ON OUR OWN. THE NEW BATTERY HELPED, BUT IT'S NOT A END ALL IF THE CAR HASN'T BEEN STARTED FOR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES IT NEEDS TO BE JUMPED IN ORDER TO START IT. THIS HAPPENS CONSTANTLY AND WE KNOW THAT IT'S AN ISSUE WITH THE OUTBACK'S.

BATTERY DRAINS MUCH MORE QUICKLY THAN NORMAL. I HAVE REPLACED IT 3 TIMES IN 5 YEARS.

BATTERY IS DRAINED WHILE PARKED.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. I BOUGHT IT 2019. I HAD THE CAR 2 WEEKS 7/2019 AND I DROVE IT 25 MINUTES TO TRAIN STATION. TURNED IT OFF AND TRIED TO START IT AND IT WAS DEAD. TOOK IT IN AND DEALER REPLACED BATTERY. ON SATURDAY 4/3/21 WENT TO START MY CAR IN MY DRIVEWAY AND IT WAS DEAD. TOOK IT TO DEALER AND THEY SAID I DONT DRIVE IT ENOUGH.

I LEFT MY HOME TO GO GET GAS A FEW MINUTES AWAY. AFTER I FILLED UP AT THE PUMP, MY CAR WOULD NOT START. I TRIED SEVERAL TIMES, AND ASKED A GAS STATION ATTENDANT FOR HELP. HE SAID IT SOUNDED LIKE THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR. I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR INTO NEUTRAL, AND HE PUSHED MY CAR BACK INTO A PARKING SPOT SO I COULD CALL SOMEONE FOR A JUMP. HOWEVER, WITHIN THE FEW MINUTES OF TRYING TO START MY CAR AND BEING PUSHED, THE BATTERY DRAINED SO QUICKLY THAT THE CAR WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AND INOPERABLE. I COULD NOT GET THE CAR BACK INTO PARK, AND THE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE DIDN'T WORK EITHER BECAUSE THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NO ELECTRICITY LEFT IN THE CAR. THIS COULD NOT HAVE BEEN HAVE BEEN ANY LONGER THAN A 5 MINUTE TIMESPAN. THE PARKING SPOT I WAS IN HAD A SLIGHT SLOPE TO IT, SO SINCE I COULDN'T PUT THE CAR IN PARK OR USE THE EMERGENCY BRAKE, I HAD TO KEEP MY FOOT PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL SOMEONE ARRIVED TO HELP ME. I COULD NOT GET OUT OF THE CAR TO EVEN CHECK UNDER THE HOOD. LUCKILY I HAD A PASSENGER THAT COULD GET OUT AND ASSIST, ESPECIALLY SINCE I COULDN'T OPEN ANY WINDOWS EITHER. WHEN HELP ARRIVED, THEY WERE ABLE TO JUMP THE CAR SO I COULD DRIVE BACK HOME. HAD I BEEN ALONE THOUGH, I WOULD HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY OUT OF LUCK - I WOULD HAVE BEEN STUCK IN THE CAR PRESSING THE BRAKE, OR RISK GETTING OUT AND HAVING THE CAR ROLL AWAY. IT WAS AN INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS SITUATION - I CANNOT BELIEVE THE POWER COULD DRAIN SO QUICKLY TO THE POINT THAT I COULDN'T EVEN PARK THE CAR. I PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AFTERWARDS, BUT I'M NOT EVEN SURE THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I'VE NEVER SEEN A BATTERY DRAIN SO QUICKLY - IT ALMOST SEEMS LIKE MORE OF AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE WITH THE CAR.

REPEATED FAILURE TO START STEMMING FROM A DEAD BATTERY, DESPITE DAILY OR MORE OFTEN TRIPS. WHEN PARKED TEMPORARILY TO PICK UP MY CHILDREN FROM SCHOOL, THE CAR FAILED TO START. RECEIVED A 'JUMP' TO RESTART. WILL MAKE AN APPOINTMENT WITH THE DEALER TO REPLACE THE BATTERY (OR WHATEVER SERVICE THEY OFFER) FOR THE THIRD BATTERY IN LESS THAN 3 YEARS. BATTERY IS DISCHARGING BEFORE MY EYES; VOLT METER ON THE BATTERY SHOWS A DECREASE OF 0.01VOLTS/PER 10 SECONDS.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN PULL OUT THE KEY AFTER PARK THE CAR.

FOR THE PAST 2 YEARS, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY 4 TIMES BECAUSE IT KEPT DYING ON ME. I ALWAYS THOUGHT I HAD FAULTY BATTERIES UNTIL I READ AN ARTICLE ON THE PROBLEM WITH THE OUTBACK.

FREQUENT BATTERY DRAINING AND SOMETIMES NOT RECHARGING WHEN DRIVING. WHILE TURNED OFF IN THE GARAGE BATTERY WILL DRAIN IN AS LITTLE AS 9 DAYS. HAVE TO KEEP IT ON A TRICKLE CHARGE WHEN NOT IN USE IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO START IT. NO MODERN CAR SHOULD LEAVE YOU STRANDED. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE THE PURCHASE IN 2016.

MOONROOF WILL NOT CLOSE ONCE OPENED. DEALER QUOTED $1400 REPAIR COST. DEALER SUGGESTED DISABLING THE MOON ROOF AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO REPAIR. WAS TOLD THIS HAPPENS TO MOONROOFS OVER TIME. I HAVE OWNED CARS WITH MOON ROOFS FOR OVER 40 YEARS AND THIS IS THE FIRST TIME EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM WITH ANY CAR. IS THIS A SUBARU DEFECT?

THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN AUGUST OF 2020 WITHOUT ANY IMPACT OR OUTSIDE CAUSE ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD ALMOST THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE GLASS. I HAD IT REPLACED AT THE DEALERSHIP AND IN APRIL OF 2021 THE NEW WINDSHIELD NOW HAS CRACKED DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE GLASS. BOTH TIMES THE CRACKS APPEARED OVERNIGHT WITH THE VEHICLE IN A PARKED POSITION.

MY BATTERY DRAINS QUICKLY WHEN I HAVE THE CAR OFF AND THE HATCH OPEN FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. THIS HAS BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN 2016.

FILED A FORMAL COMPLAINT WITH SUBARU AMERICA AFTER MY AUTOMOBILE'S BATTERY DIED FOR THE 4TH TIME.I HAVE APPROX. 21,000 ON THE CAR WHICH WAS BOUGHT NEW IN 2016. THE BATTERY DIES WHEN THE CAR SITS OVERNIGHT (IT IS GARAGED EVERY NIGHT). I KNOW THERE ARE CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS CLAIMING THAT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OVERWHELMS THE BATTERY THUS CAUSING IT TO GO DEAD. I BOUGHT THE CAR KNOWING THAT MY PREVIOUS SUBARU'S HAVE BEEN VERY RELIABLE. THIS IS NOT THE CASE WITH THE 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT BATTERY WAS REPLACED THREE TIMES IN THE VEHICLE HOWEVER, THE BATTERY FAILURE PERSISTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A BATTERY CHARGER WAS CARRIED IN THE VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE RECURRING FAILURE. COLONIAL SUBARU (89 NEWTOWN RD, DANBURY, CT 06810) WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND DIAGNOSED THE VEHICLE WITH AN ELECTRICAL SHORT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE WAS MADE AWARE THAT THERE WERE TWO CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS FOR THE BATTERY FAILURE FROM A NEWS ARTICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 70,238. THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE STATED THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED 4 TIMES. *JS

BATTERY WILL NOT KEEP CHARGE WHILE PARKED. FULLY DEPLETES WITHOUT WARNING. WILL NOT START. WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH FOB. DEALER REPLACED BATTERY, BUT PROBLEM CAME BACK SEVERAL MONTHS LATER. MULTIPLE CHARGINGS WERE TEMPORARY ONLY

WITHIN ONE WEEK OF PURCHASE THE BATTERY WAS DRAINED BY THE SIMPLE ACT OF LOADING THE CAR FOR A TRIP OVER THE COURSE OF ONE DAY. TWICE DURING THE FIRST YEAR WE FOUND THE BATTERY INEXPLICABLY DEAD. WE REPLACED THE OEM WITH A NEW BATTERY 13 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE. THIS NEW, MORE POWERFUL BATTERY ALSO IS ALSO FOUND INEXPLICABLY DRAINED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS AFTER ROUTINE SHORT TRIPS. FOR FOUR YEARS WE'VE BEEN FORCED TO MONITOR AND TRICKLE CHARGE THE BATTERY TO KEEP THE CAR USABLE. THIS IS COMPLETELY UNREASONABLE FOR A NEW CAR.

BATTERY NEEDED CHARGE REPEATEDLY THEN DIED ABOUT YEAR 3. WE REPLACED WITH LARGER800 AMP BATTERY. BUT AT 2 YEAR IT STARTS FAILING THE SAME. BATTERY TESTS OK AND ALTERNATOR TESTS OK AND NO LIGHTS OR DOORS LEFT OPEN. BUT WHENEVER CAR IS NOT DRIVEN AT LEAST AN HOUR WITHOUT STOPPING IT LOSES ABOUT .1 VOLT PER DAY -WHEN DRIVEN JUST SHORTER DISTANCES. TESTING DAILY WITH MULTIMETER ETER CONFIRMS THIS RATE. CAR REQUIRES CONSTANT BATTERY MINDER ATTACHED AT NIGHT. TOOK IT TO ADVANCE AUTO TODAY AND THEY CONFIRM WITH TEST NO BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR PROBLEM EXISTS!

BATTERY DRAINS EXCESSIVELY FAST. IF NOT DRIVEN FREQUENTLY FOR LONGER DISTANCES BATTERY DIES.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. A FOUR-INCH WAVY CRACK ON THE LEFT BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD; A WEEK LATER ANOTHER CRACK OF ABOUT 6 INCHES APPEARED. THE CRACKS OCCURRED WITH THE SUBARU CAR IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY.

THE BATTERY DRAINED AFTER A SHORT DRIVE WHEN ONLY 2 YEARS OLD. THE SAME THING HAPPENED TO THE NEXT BATTERY AFTER ONLY 1 YEAR. EACH TIME THE CAR HAD TO BE JUMPED AND THE BATTERY TESTED BAD. IT HAS NOW HAPPENED A 2RD TIME WITH A BATTERY KESS THAN 1 YEAR OLD.

VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. CAR WILL NOT START UNLESS CHARGED. BOUGHT NEW BATTERY IN FEBRUARY 2020. WORKED FOR A TIME, BUT CAR WILL NOT START AGAIN. KEEP GETTING BATTERY CHARGED TO RUN. HAVE HAD BATTERY CHECKED. IT IS GOOD AS IS ALTERNATOR. MUST CHARGE BATTERY EACH TIME I WANT TO DRIVE CAR. THE PROBLEM STARTED IN SEPTEMBER 2020.

I PURCHASED MY 2016 OUTBACK SEPT 2019 FROM A DEALERSHIP WITH 38,000 MILES. THEY HAD REPLACED MY BATTERY ABOUT 4 MONTHS BEFORE I GOT IT. IT HAS A 30 MONTH FULL WARRANTY. THE BATTERY WENT COMPLETELY DEAD ABOUT 10 DAYS AGO.. I CALLED A TOW TRUCK TO JUMP ME. THE DRIVER INFORMED THAT THEY GET PLENTY OF CALLS FOR THE NEWER SUBARUS . I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WHO CHARGED ME FOR THE BATTERY AND SAID THEY DON'T HONOR THE WARRANTY ON A CAR THAT WAS SOLD AFTER THE BATTERY WAS INSTALLED. THEY ALSO DIDN'T MENTION THAT SUBARUS WERE HAVING ELECTRIC ISSUES. MY SON LOOKED IT UP AND INFORMED ME THAT SUBARUS THAT WERE DRIVEN SHORT DISTANCES, WHICH MINE IS, TEND TO HAVE THIS PROBLEM

THE CAR BATTERY HAS DIED MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE PAST THREE YEARS. THE BATTERY WAS FACTORY REPLACED IN 2019 BECAUSE OF THIS ISSUE AND HAS SINCE NEEDED TO BE JUMPED AT LEAST 3 TIMES. THERE IS ALSO CORROSION ON THE NEW BATTERY ALREADY. WHEN THE BATTERY HAS DIED IT'S EITHER BEEN PARKED IN OUR DRIVEWAY OR HAS LEFT ME STRANDED SOMEWHERE NEEDING A JUMP WHEN IT WOULDN'T START.

BATTERY IS SUFFERING EXCESSIVE DRAIN. LAST REPLACED BATTERY FAILED WITHIN 2 YEARS.

IN EARLY JANUARY, OF 2018, THE VEHICLE WOULDN'T START BECAUSE THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WE HAD TO HAVE IT JUMP-STARTED. THIS CONTINUED AT LEAST A DOZEN TIMES. ON 5/25/18 WE CONTACTED THE DEALERSHIP, AND SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT ON 5/29/18 TO HAVE IT ASSESSED. THEY FOUND: ' BATTERY NOT FULLY CHARGED. FOUND SOFTWARE UPDATE FOR BATTERY CHARGING. PERFORMED SOFTWARE UPDATE.' THE PROBLEM CONTINUED...WE MADE ANOTHER APPOINTMENT ON 7/11/18, AND THEY GAVE US A RENTAL VEHICLE WHILE THEY HAD OURS, FOR 8 DAYS. THIS TIME: 'AFTER FINDING A PARASITIC DRAW, AND REPLACING A MODULE, THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED'. WE WERE TOLD THIS WAS BECOMING A COMMON OCCURRENCE WITH SUBARU BATTERIES, BUT THAT SUBARU WASN'T WILLING TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AT THEIR COST. WE CONTINUED TO BE INCONVENIENCED, (STRANDED), UNTIL THE DEALERSHIP RELENTED, AND INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY.

WITH APPROXIMATELY 50,000 MILES ON THE VEHICLE, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWO TIMES. THIS VEHICLE HAS A PROBLEM WITH ITS DESIGN THAT ALLOWS THE BATTERY TO DRAIN TO A COMPLETELY DEAD AND IRREVERSIBLE STATE EVEN WHEN THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS FOR A MEANINGFUL PERIOD OF TIME EACH DAY. THE FIRST OCCURRENCE WAS IN MAY, 2018 AND THE SECOND OCCURRENCE WAS APRIL, 2021.

THE CAR WILL BE DRIVEN NORMALLY AND THEN WHEN YOU GO TO START IT THE BATTERY IS DEAD. THIS HAS OCCURRED AFTER MULTIPLE YEARS AND MULTIPLE TIMES THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE DEALER HAS REFUSED TO LOOK FOR A PROBLEM SINCE THEY SAY IT IS MY FAULT. I HAVE OPENED A CASE WITH SUBARU IN THE PAST BUT NOW THEY HAVE NOT RESPONDED TO THE LATEST EMAIL CONTACT. DATE BELOW IS DATE I LAST CONTACTED SUBARU.

I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY 4 TIMES SINCE BUYING THE CAR IN 2016. I CAN'T LET IT SIT MORE THAN 3 DAYS IF ITS COLD OUT OR THE BATTERY DIES. I HAVE TO JUMP THE BATTERIES QUITE FREQUENTLY. I CAN'T LET THE CAR SIT MORE THAN 7 DAYS IF IT IS WARM OUTSIDE. I HAVE CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TWICE AND THEY HAVE TOLD ME THIS IS NORMAL. I ASKED WHAT COULD BE CONSTANTLY DRAINING THE BATTERIES. I HAD THOUGHT THE CAR WAS A LEMMON WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT IT. THE BATTERY PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE I BOUGHT IT. IT WAS A BRAND NEW CAR.

THE BATTERY HAS A SLOW DRAIN ON IT. I END UP HAVING A DEAD BATTERY ABOUT EVERY 4-6 WEEKS AND NEED TO JUMP THE CAR. I'VE REPLACED THE BATTERY, AND STILL HAPPENS.

MY CAR HAS ELECTRICAL ISSUES WHICH CAUSE THE BATTERY TO DRAIN. IF I DON'T DRIVE MY CAR FOR A FEW DAYS, SOMETIMES IT WON'T START WITHOUT GETTING JUMPED OR CHARGING THE BATTERY DIRECTLY. ONCE THE VEHICLE IS MOVING, EVERYTHING APPEARS TO BE WORKING FINE. IT'S JUST WHEN STARTING THE CAR. MY ISSUES SEEM TO BE RELATED TO THE ISSUES THAT ARE DOCUMENTED IN A CURRENT LAWSUIT AGAINST SUBARU FOR DRAINED BATTERY.

BATTERY WOULD NOT RECHARGE DURING SHORT, FREQUENT TRIPS. BATTERY WOULD NOT RESTART THE CAR. REPLACED.

MY BATTERY KEEPS GOING OUT. I REPLACED A NEW BATTERY AND IT STILL DIES. I TOOK THE NEW BATTERY BACK TO THE RETAILER WHO TESTED THE NEW BATTERY AND SAID IT WAS STILL GOOD. HOWEVER, MY BATTERY STILL GOES OUT 3-4 TIMES A WEEK AND NOW I HAVE TO BUY A PORTABLE BATTERY BOOSTER TO START UP THE CAR ON A ROUTINE BASIS.

THIS VEHICLE IS 5 YEARS OLD. THE FIRST BATTERY LASTED 4 YEARS. THE SECOND BATTERY WAS DEAD IN 10 MONTHS. NOW WE WILL TRY A THIRD. IN LOOKING UP OTHER DRIVERS COMMENTS, THIS IS A KNOWN PRODUCT PROBLEM. THERE IS A TECHNICAL BULLETIN OUT ABOUT THIS, BUT IT DOESN'T DO ANYTHING TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THERE IS ALSO A KNOW TIRE WEARING PROBLEM. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THOSE, 3 TIMES. I HAVE 92000 MILES. I HAVE REPLACED THEM WITH MICHELIN TWICE. GOOD FOR 60,000. LUCKY TO GET 30,000 ON THEM. TWICE NOW BECAUSE OF THE BATTERY, I HAVE BEEN STRANDED. THIS LAST TIME, I WAS AT MY VACATION HOME, ONLY ONE OTHER PERSON IN THE AREA. LUCKILY THEY HAD JUMPER CABLES, AND JUMPED THE CAR AND FOLLOWED ME TO THE AUTO STORE. THE FIRST TIME I MISSED WORK, AND HAD TO WAIT TILL MY HUSBAND CAME HOME TO GIVE MY CAR A JUMP. BOTH TIMES, THE CAR WAS SITTING OVERNIGHT.

ALMOST NEW BATTERY FAILED. HAD REPLACED PREVIOUS BATTERY ON SEPT 15, 2020 WITH INTERSTATE BATTERY, AND ON APR. 13, 2021 IN THE MORNING THE BATTERY WAS FOUND DISCHARGED DESPITE NOTHING BEING ON IN CAR OVERNIGHT. THE RED TERMINAL IS CORRODED.

KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION CYLINDER INTERMITTENTLY. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE FOR SUBARU UNDER THEIR OWN TSB 16-112-18R.

BATTERY DRAIN TO ZERO, I CAN'T START THE ENGINE, BATTERY WAS REPLACED 2 YEARS AGO UNDER WARRANTY, AND NOW AGAIN I DO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TRY TO CHARGE THE BATTERY IT SHOWS 100% CHARGED, BUT FOR SOME REASON, I CAN'T START THE ENGINE, SEEMS LIKE DOES NOT HAVE ENOUGH BATTER TO START IT.

WINDSHIELD BEGAN CRACKING NEAR THE BOTTOM (CLOSE TO THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS) BUT THERE WAS NO ROCK OR DAMAGE TO THE WINDSHIELD THAT PROMPTED THE CRACK. IT JUST APPEARED AND THEN HAS SPREAD ABOUT 2 FEET.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HIS WIFE HAD ATTEMPTED TO PARK THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WHILE AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE JUMPED A CURB AND HIT A TREE; HOWEVER, HIS WIFE WAS UNSURE IF ANY WARNING LIGHTS HAD ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY UPON IMPACT AND THE CONTACT'S WIFE WAS NOT INJURED. THE POLICE WERE CALLED TO THE SCENE; HOWEVER, THE CONTACT WAS UNAWARE IF A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED. DUE TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED FOR THE DAMAGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT PRIOR TO THE FAILURE, THE VEHICLE WAS PLACED UNDER RECALL NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V794000 (POWER TRAIN) WHERE IT WAS SERVICED BY NORTH END SUBARU(757 CHASE RD, LUNENBURG, MA 01462). THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER HAD YET TO BE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 44,343.

DEAD BATTERY WITHIN FIRST YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, AT 75,000 MILES NOW AND THIRD BATTERY HAS NOW FAILED. UNSAFE.

I HAVE HAD >10 EVENTS OF DEAD BATTERY NEEDING CHARGED OR JUMPED. I ALMOST MISSED MY DAUGHTER'S WEDDING DUE TO THIS INCONVENIENCE. I HAD MY BATTERY TESTED AND FOUND IN GOOD OPERATION. I FINALLY REPLACED MY BATTERY AND IN LESS THAN A MONTH I HAD ANOTHER INCONVENIENCE 10 MINUTES BEFORE I NEEDED TO LEAVE FOR A DOCTOR'S APPOINTMENT. THE BATTERY WAS UNABLE TO BE JUMPED AND I HAD TO SCRAMBLE TO FIND A RIDE.

THE CAR WAS PARKED IN THE GARAGE AND IT WAS ABOVE FREEZING. NONE OF THE LIGHTS HAD BEEN LEFT ON/DOORS OPEN... THE CAR DOESN'T HAVE A FOB KEPT TOO CLOSE... THE CAR WOULDN'T START. THIS ISN'T THE FIRST TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED AND WE'RE NOT SURE IF IT'S A BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, ELECTRICAL ISSUE OR WHAT. WE'VE HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED ONCE ALREADY. IT FIRST HAPPENED WITHIN A WEEK OF PURCHASING THE CAR IN 2017 IN THE SUMMER TIME, AND HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE WITHOUT EXCESSIVE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IN USE.

I PURCHASED MY OUTBACK AS A NEW CAR. I ORDERED IT. I PICKED IT UP IN AUGUST OF 2015. SINCE THEN I HAVE HAD APPROXIMATELY 6-7 BATTERIES. MY MOST CURRENT REPLACEMENT WAS TODAY. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THROUGH MANY BATTERY REPLACEMENTS, IT IS THE CLIMATE WHERE I LIVE, A FAULTY BATTERY, AND POSSIBLY OTHER THINGS. TODAY I MENTIONED TO THE SUBARU SERVICE THAT THIS NEVER HAPPENED WITH MY OTHER CARS (I'VE HAD THREE OTHERS.) THE FIRST REPLACEMENT WAS WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR OF PURCHASE, BUT I'D HAVE TO GO BACK AND VERIFY. I'D HAD TO CALL AAA WHILE IN BLYTHE JUST TO GET TO AN AUTO ZONE FOR A BATTERY BECAUSE THERE ARE NO SUBARU DEALERS IN THE AREA. I HAVE HAD TO GET 1-2 AT A LOCAL GOOD YEAR BECAUSE MY LOCAL SUBARU IS ABOUT A 25-30 MINUTE DRIVE AND DIDN'T HAVE TIME TO GET THERE...AND NEEDED A BATTERY. TODAY I ASKED HOW MANY I HAVE GOTTEN WHILE AT SUBARU. WE COUNTED ABOUT FOUR. A FEW DAYS AGO I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND IT DIDN'T WANT TO START IMMEDIATELY. (I THINK THE LAST TIME I WAS AT SUBARU THEY SAID IT WAS FINE.) THIS BATTERY LASTED THE LONGEST, ABOUT A YEAR. I'VE HAD SOME LAST LESS THAN THAT. I EVEN BOUGHT A FARADAY POUCH TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP. I'M WRITING THIS LATE AT NIGHT WHILE ALL IS IN MY MIND. SO I DON'T HAVE TODAY'S PAPERWORK ON ME, AND I DIDN'T HAPPEN TO GET THE DATES THE MAN AT SUBARU GAVE ME OF WHEN THEY PUT IN A BATTERY. I KNOW THE DESERT HEAT CAN BE HARSH, BUT 6-7 BATTERIES IS UNREASONABLE AND NOT SAFE.

BATTERY DRAINS AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A FEW DAYS. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED LAST YEAR, AND HAD THE NEW BATTERY CHECKED RECENTLY AT THE DEALER. THEY (DEALER) SAID IT WAS FINE AND SAW NO PARASITIC DRAIN. THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED, WHICH I FIND TO BE VERY ODD AND EXTREMELY INCONVENIENT. I ALSO OWN A 2020 SUBARU ASCENT AND DON'T HAVE TO DRIVE IT EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY HEALTHY. THE CAR SAT FOR ONE WEEK RECENTLY AND THE BATTERY DRAINED AGAIN. I JUMPED IT YESTERDAY IT AND DROVE IT FOR 30 MINUTES AND TODAY THE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN.

I PURCHASED OUR OUTBACK NEW FROM A DEALERSHIP IN PENNSYLVANIA IN MARCH, 2016. SINCE THAT TIME WE HAVE HAD THE OME AND TWO REPLACEMENT BATTERIES FAIL AND WE ARE NOW ON OUR 4TH BATTERY. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID HE WAS UNAWARE OF ANY REASON THE BATTERIES MAY HAVE FAILED. WE HAD OUR VERY EXPERIENCED SUBARU MECHANIC CHECK IT OUT AND HE COULD NOT FIND A CAUSE. THE CAR IS MOSTLY DRIVEN ON THE HIGHWAY AND HAS 133,000 MILES ON IT.

BATTERY DYING AFTER SHORT DRIVE

BATTERY DRAINS QUICKLY. CHANGING BATTERY DOESN'T HELP.

I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY 3 TIMES SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR IN 2016 DUE TO IT DRAINING SO LOW IT COULDN'T BE CHARGED. PURCHASED A BATTERY VIA AAA

BATTERY OFTEN GOES DEAD. HAVE REPLACED BATTERY 3 OR 4 TIMES SINCE WE PURCHASED IN NOVEMBER 2015. BATTERY DIED IN GARAGE AND IN PARKING LOT.

BATTERY DRAINS UNEXPECTADLY AND SWIFTLY. TURNED OFF MOTOR AND LEFT KEY IN IGNITION WHILE WE SAT OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE. WE WERE STRANDED IN THE DESERT ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION.

BATTERY DOES NOT HOLD A CHARGE. DRAINS IN A DAY JUST SITTING IN MY GARAGE. CAN'T GO ANYWHERE FOR FEAR IT WILL NOT START. PROBLEM SEEMS ELECTRICAL MORE THAN THE BATTERY. THE BATTERY TESTED GOOD AT THE DEALER.

CAR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM GET STALLED WITHOUT ANY REASON AFTER PARKING CAR FOR SOME MINUTES. NOTHING WORKS. I NEEDED TO CALL AAA OR FRIEND FOR HELP (BATTERY JUMP). IT HAS OCCURRED SEVERAL TIMES. SOMETIMES, WITHOUT ANY EXPLANATION, POWER TO WINDOWS HAS FAILED. HOWEVER, COMES BACK AT RANDOM TIMES. I HAVE CHANGED BATTERY SEVERAL TIMES BUT IT DOES NOT SOLVE PROBLEMS.

BATTERY CONTINUES TO GET DRAINED OF POWER FOR NO APPARENT REASON. I HAVE HAD TO GET A JUMP START SEVERAL TIMES EVEN AFTER DRIVING FOR 3 OR MORE HOURS. WHEN I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD THAT THE BATTERY WAS FINE, BUT NEEDED TO BE CHARGED. THEY EXPLAINED THAT THE REASON FOR THE DEAD BATTERY WAS BECAUSE THE CAR WAS NOT STARTED FOR 2 OR MORE DAYS. LESS THAN A WEEK AFTER THIS VISIT TO THE DEALERSHIP, THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN AFTER A 4 HOUR DRIVE.

BATTERY DRAIN WHICH CAUSED ELECTRICAL AND LIFT GATE TO STOP FUNCTIONING.

KEY INTERMITTENTLY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION. IT IS OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY.

BATTERY DIES FREQUENTLY WITHOUT OBVIOUS CAUSE, EVEN AFTER REPLACING BATTERY SOONER THAN EXPECTED. IT HAPPENS AFTER DRIVING FOR 30 MINUTES, TURNING IT OFF FOR A SHORT PERIOD LIKE 15-20 MINUTES, THEN TRYING TO RESTART, AS WELL AS AFTER SITTING FOR 8-10 HOURS.

PARASITIC DRAIN OF BATTERY BY FAULTY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OVERNIGHT.

THIS MORNING MY WIFE NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD OF OUR 2016 3.6R SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED 3/2016. IT ORIGINATES AT THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD, PASSES OVER THE 6 RED DEFROSTER WIRES BELOW THE WINDSHIELD, AND EXTENDS ~10" UP ON THE DRIVERS SIDE TOWARD THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. THERE ARE NO PITS ETC., THIS CRACK ORIGINATED ON THE INSIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THIS CRACK PERFECTLY MATCHES THE CRACK PATTERN AND DESCRIPTION IDENTIFIED IN SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN 12-192-15R, REVISED 11/19/15. THAT BULLETIN WAS ISSUED AS A RESULT OF SUBARU'S LOOSING A LAWSUIT IN CALIFORNIA REGARDING BROKEN GLASS WINDSHIELDS BECAUSE OF MANUFACTURING DEFECT. UNFORTUNATELY SUBARU IS ONLY REPLACING DEFECTIVE GLASS ON OUTBACKS UP TO VIN G3222455/G3210476. OUR MANUFACTURING VIN IS EARLY 2016, AND THE JUDGE IN THE CASE DID NOT EXTEND JUDGMENT AGAINST SUBARY TO COVER OUR OUTBACK. THIS IS EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM WITH OUR OUTBACK AS FOR THE CALIFORNIA CASE. HERE IN NEW JERSEY WE HAVE BEEN HAVING SEVERAL WEEKS OF HARSH WEATHER, OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE ~20 DEGREES F IN THE MORNING. THE OUTBACK IS GARAGED, IT IS A WARM GARAGE. EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A 2016, WE ASSUME THE EXTREME IS A FACTOR. THIS IS NOT A STONE HIT PROBLEM, ALL THE DRIVING IS NORTHERN NJ SURBURBAN ROADS, NOT HIGHWAY DRIVING. WE SEE MANY MANY COMPLAINTS DEFINITELY A MANUFACTURING ISSUE. ATTACHING A PHOTO OF CRACK. I RUN MY FINGER OVER THE CRACK AND ACTUALLY CAN'T FEEL ANYTHING, NO DINGS, NOTHING.

IN FOUR YEARS AND 18000 MILES, I AM NOW ON MY THIRD BATTERY AS OF TODAY. I HAVE READ OF RECURRENT ISSUES WITH 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY FAILURES. THE SECOND BATTERY I BOUGHT AT THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP WHEN THE VEHICLE HAD 13888 MILES. THE BATTERY WAS PURCHASED 5/15/19. TODAY, 3/2/21 I HAD TO PURCHASE A NEW BATTERY.

BATTERY CONTINUES TO DIE EVEN AFTER BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THIS ISSUE STARTED TO HAPPEN 1 YEAR POST OWNERSHIP

I BELIEVE I AM EXPERIENCING BATTERY DRAIN DUE TO SOME FLAW IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I'M ON MY 2ND. BATTERY AND JUST FOUND I COULDN'T START CAR AND NEEDED A JUMP.

THE CAR BATTERY STARTED DYING FREQUENTLY. IT WAS REPLACED TWICE, FUNCTIONED FINE FOR A FEW MONTHS, AND THEN DIED AGAIN. IT WAS JUMPED ONE DAY, DIED AGAIN 4 DAYS LATER, JUMPED AGAIN AND WAS DEAD AGAIN 5 HOURS LATER.

BATTERY DRAINS CONSTANTLY. CAR CANNOT SIT FOR MORE THAN A FEW DAYS WITHOUT BATTERY BEING DEAD. SUBARU DEALER SAYS THERE IS NO PROBLEM. CAR NEEDS TO BE DRIVEN 20 TO 30 MILES EVERY DAY AS A SOLUTION? PROBLEM HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR MONTHS AND BATTERY IS ONLY 1 YEAR OLD.

OUR SUBARU OUTBACK ORIGINALLY DIED AFTER MY WIFE WAS SITTING IN THE CAR LISTENING TO THE RADIO FOR 10 MINUTES. THE DEALER STATED THAT LISTENING TO THE RADIO WAS THE CAUSE AND CHARGED UP THE BATTERY. COUPLE WEEKS LATER AND THE CAR DIES AGAIN THIS TIME JUST SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. WE INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY IN HOPES THE PROBLEM WOULD BE FIXED. THE CAR HAS DIED MULTIPLE TIMES SINCE THE NEW BATTERY FROM SIMPLY SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY. NO INTERIOR LIGHTS LEFT ON AND POWER LIGHT GATE CLOSED. AGAIN THE DEALER CHARGED THE BATTERY AND SENT US ON OUR WAY. WE CANNOT LEAVE THIS CAR SITTING ONE DAY WITHOUT THE BATTERY DRAINING. WE ARE NOW ON BATTERY NUMBER TWO.

2.12 FEBRUARY 2021, VEHICLE MILAGE APPROACHING 42,000. TRAVELING FROM MAZAMA WA TO SEATTLE VIA WA HWY 20, US 97 AND I-90, TRAVELED +/- 200 MILES. TEMPERATURE RANGES FROM 10F TO 20F. TRAVELING WEST ON I-90 +/-50 MPH, LANES CLEAR, SNOW IN BETWEEN LANES. NEW MICHELIN TIRES ON ALL 4 WHEELS. HOLDING THE SPEED CONSTANT FOLLOWING 18-WHEEL RIG. SUBARU STARTED WOBBLING AS IF ONE OF THE TIRES WAS GOING FLAT. TRIED ACCELERATING AND SLOWING TO DETERMINE IF THIS WAS FRONT OR BACK TIRE. DETERMINED IT MUST BE A REAR TIRE. NO LOW-PRESSURE INDICATION ON THE INSTRUMENT GAGES (I HAVE HAD TIRE WARNING DURING SUMMER DRIVING AND FOUND A NAIL IN TIRE). NEXT OFF RAMP CHECKED ALL 4 TIRES, ALL APPEARED TO BE THE SAME IN APPEARANCE. RESUMED TRAVEL. DURING ACCELERATION AND DE-ACCELERATING NO DIFFERENTIAL SWAY. WHEN CONSTANT SPEED MAINTAINED AROUND 50 MPH SWAYING OCCURRED UN TO WE REACHED THE WEST SIDE OF SNOQUALMIE PASS AND THE TEMPERATURE WAS INTO THE 30'S. LAST YEAR WHEN HAVING VEHICLE SERVICED, I TOLD THE SERVICE CHECK-IN PERSON & A SUPERVISOR THE CAR WAS STALLING OUT WHEN HARD ACCELERATION DURING MERGING LEFT INTO HIGHWAY WHERE SPEED LIMIT WAS 50 MPH. THE CAR STALLED AND I KICKED THE ACCELERATOR. LUCKILY, THE CAR RESPONDED THE SUPERVISORS RESPONSE WAS 'THERE'S NO WAY THIS CAN HAPPEN'.

THE IGNITION KEY DOESN'T COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. THE GEARS CAN MANUALLY SLIP WHILE IN PARK (WHILE MOVING THE GEAR SHAFT). IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THE GEAR 'PARK', WHILE ALSO THE KEY GETS STUCK AND WILL NOT COME OUT. THIS HAPPENS NUMEROUS TIMES A DAY.

2/15/21 DEAD BATTERY VEHICLE PARKED IN HOME GARAGE STATIONARY. BATTERY ONE MONTH OLD REPLACED ON 1/21/21 PLUS UPGRADED SOFTWARE. PREVIOUS BATTERY WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY LESS THAN 3 YEARS OLD. 2/15/21 HAD TO GET CAR TOWED FROM HOME GARAGE. OUTBACK STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND WE PURCHASED EXTENDED WARRANTY FROM SUBARU. REMOVED BULB FROM HATCH BACK PER SERVICE MGR. AUTOMATIC STARTER ALSO UNRELIABLE AND WORKS INTERMITTENTLY. FACTORY INSTALLED. VEHICLE UNRELIABLE. SERVICE UNABLE TO FIX PROBLEM. NEED TO PURCHASE A LARGER STRONGER BATTERY FOR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON OWN TO SEE IF IT HELPS BATTERY PROBLEM. DEALER WILL ONLY GIVE 550 BATTERY.

I HAVE NOW HAD TWO COMPLETE BATTERY DISCHARGES REQUIRING JUMP STARTS WHEN THE HATCH IS OPENED AND CLOSED SEVERAL TIMES WITHOUT THE VEHICLE BEING TURNED ON. OVER A PERIOD OF A FEW HOURS WHEN I OPENED AND CLOSED THE TRUNK WITH THE AUTOMATED OPEN/CLOSE ABOUT 4-5 TIMES THE BATTERY COMPLETELY DISCHARGED REQUIRED JUMP START. THE FIRST TIME I BOUGHT A MEW BATTERY FIGURING IT WAS BAD. THE SECOND TIME NOW I KNOW SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE BATTERY/ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY BOTH TIMES.

KEY GETS STUCK ON IGNITION SWITCH WHEN I TURN CAR OFF AND PUT IT IN PARK. KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. IT TAKES SEVERAL MINUTES, SOME TIMES UP TO 20 MINUTES FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE COLUMN. VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE STARTED AND TURNED OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE KEY RELEASES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW WEEKS NOW, VERY FRUSTRATING AND DANGEROUS AS HAVING TO START AND STOP THE VEHICLE HAS DRAINED THE BATTERY TWICE NOW AND I HAVE HAD TO GET THE VEHICLE JUMP STARTED. HOPEFULLY THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE.....

I AM CONTINUING TO HAVE AN ISSUE WITH MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHERE IT STRUGGLES TO START ALMOST ALL THE TIME IN COLD TEMPERATURES AND THE BATTERY OFTEN DIES. MY SUBARU DEALERSHIP "FIXED" THE ISSUE LAST YEAR BY REPLACING THE BATTERY. NOW THAT COLD WEATHER IS BACK, THE PROBLEM IS BACK. JUMPING THE BATTERY ALWAYS SOLVED THE PROBLEM. NOTE THAT EVEN IN WARM TEMPERATURES THE START ALWAYS SOUNDS "ROUGH".

REPLACED ORIGINAL BATTERY WITH SUBARU BATTERY 12/2019. NEEDED TWO JUMP STARTS AFTER VIRUS TRAVEL PROTOCOLS BEGAN (3/2020). CAR PARKED FOR 3 DAYS (1/28-30/2021) BATTERY WON'T START ENGINE.

WE STARTED DRAINED BATTERIES AT 57,000 MILES (WE ARE AT 61,000 MILES NOW), WHICH WAS ABOUT NOVEMBER 2020. AS OF TODAY, THIS IS OUR 4TH TIME HAVING A DEAD BATTERY. WE HAD A SERVICE CHECK FROM VAN SUBARU KANSAS CITY, MO IN THE LAST MONTH OR SO. THEY TOLD US NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE BATTERY, AND THAT WE LIKELY WEREN'T DRIVING IT ENOUGH. WE DRIVE IT DAILY, BUT NOT FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME, EXCEPT 2 DAYS A WEEK. WE HAVE HAD TO HAVE THE BATTERY JUMPED BY OUR ROAD SIDE SERVICE. WE WILL HAVE IT JUMPED MONDAY 2/1/21 AND GO BACK TO VAN SUBARU. WE READ OF A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR THIS VERY ISSUE. WE BELIEVE IT IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. EACH TIME IT HAPPENED WAS IN HE MORNING AFTER THE CAR SAT IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT.

STEERING WHEEL LOCKS AND ALL LIGHTS LIGHT UP ON DASH THEN VEHICLE COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF. TRIED TO JUMP VEHICLE AND VEHICLE WILL START BUT TURNS OFF A FEW SECONDS LATER. SUBARU ADVISE IT WAS A DEFECTIVE BATTERY. SUBARU THEN REPLACE BATTERY UNDER WARRANTY ON 11/05/2020. THE BATTERY WAS NOT EVEN 1 YEAR OLD WHEN IT WAS REPLACED. TODAY ON 01/29/2021 IT HAPPENED AGAIN WHILE DRIVING. LUCKY BOTH TIMES I WAS NOT TRAVELING AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED LIKE ON A HEY. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF ON THE SIDE STREET. NOW I'M WAITING FOR A TOW TRUCK TO TOW MY VEHICLE TO THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP.

I IF THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN STARTED AT LEAST EVERY 2 DAYS THE BATTERY IS DEAD AND WON'T START. YOU ALSO CAN'T LEAVE THE DOORS OPEN WHILE VACUUMING THE INSIDE OR THE BATTERY WILL DIE ON YOU. THERE HAS BEEN A LOT OF CHATTER ABOUT THIS MANY PLACES CALLING IT A PARASITIC DRAIN. THIS HAS BEEN A KNOWN ISSUE WITH SUBARU FOR SEVERAL YEARS, WHICH NEVER SEEMS TO GET ADDRESSED. THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES SINCE WE BOUGHT IT NEW.

THE BATTERY WILL NOT HOLD A CHARGE. I HAD A NEW BATTERY INSTALLED EXACTLY ONE YEAR AGO AND FOR THE LAST TWO MONTHS THE CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS NOT DRIVEN FOR MORE THAN A DAY OR TWO. I'VE HAD THE CAR JUMPED MULTIPLE TIMES AND HAD THE TERMINALS REPLACE LAST WEEK DUE TO CORROSION. AND TODAY, FOE THE THIRD TIME IN TWO WEEKS THE CAR WILL NOT START. RESEARCH ON THIS WEBSITE AND ON THE INTERNET IN GENERAL TELLS ME THIS IS A KNOWN AND ONGOING ISSUE WITH SUBARU ELECTRICAL AND THEY NEED TO FIGURE A FIX FOR IT ASAP.

WHEN I TRIED TO START MY CAR THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. THIS HAPPENED TWICE LAST YEAR AND I THEN REPLACED THE BATTERY. THIS NEW BATTERY IS ONLY 4 MONTHS OLD AND YESTERDAY IT WAS DEAD AGAIN. EACH TIME A FEW DAYS HAD PASSED SINCE THE CAR HAD LAST BEEN DRIVEN. IT SEEMS THERE MUST BE SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE CAR THAT IS DRAINING THE BATTERY. IN ADDITION, POSSIBLY RELATED TO THE DEAD BATTERY THERE WERE A COUPLE OF TIMES WHEN WE FOUND THE BACK HATCH WIDE OPEN. THE BATTERY WAS NOT DEAD AFTER THIS HAPPENED.

2016 OUTBACK HAS HAD BATTERY PROBLEMS SINCE IT WAS NEW, FIRST BATTERY REPLACED BY SUBARU IN LATE 2017. NOW NEEDED THIRD REPLACEMENT IN JAN 2021. SUBARU WILL PAY 50% WHICH IS $120 WHICH IS ROBBERY AS A NEW BATTERY IS ABOUT THAT MUCH. SUBARU SAYS USE THE CAR MORE, PLUG IN A BATTERY MINDER CHARGER, HI TECH CARS HAVE POWER USAGE EVEN WHEN NOT BEING DRIVEN, ETC. NONE OF MY OTHER CARS, HUNDAI, HONDA HAVE THIS PROBLEM. I BELIEVE EITHER THE OUTBACK DESIGN HAS PARASITIC POWER DRAINAGE, THE BATTERY IS UNDER POWERED OR THERE IS A FLAW IN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DESIGN.

I DROVE MY CAR TO SKI. I PARKED MY CAR. THE SNOW ACCUMULATED ON WINDSHIELD. AND THEN I FOUND THE WINDSHIELD HAS A LONG CRACK.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK PURCHASED SEPTEMBER 2019 LAST YEAR REPLACED THE BATTERY, YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULD NOT STRAT. JUMP IT GOT IT TO THE SHOP AND THEY SHOWED THE BATTERY, & ALTERNATOR WERE GOOD. I SREACHED AND SEEN SEVERAL COMPLAINTS THE ARE THE SAME ON 2016 TO 2020. WE NEED A RECALL.

OUR CAR BATTERY HAS REPEATEDLY DIED, WITHOUT ANY EXTENDED USE (I.E., NO LIGHTS WERE LEFT ON, DOORS OPEN, ETC). WE WILL DRIVE IT AND THEN COME BACK OUT TO THE CAR AND THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD. WE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED AND WERE INFORMED IT WAS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION.

HAVE HAD TO REPLACE BATTERY 4X IN 18 MONTHS. CURRENTLY HAVE ANOTHER DEAD BATTERY THREE DAYS AFTER REPLACING. CAR CANNOT SIT FOR MORE THAN 4-5 DAYS WITHOUT LOSING BATTER CHARGE. SUGGESTED FIX FROM SUBARU: PUT IT ON A TRICKLE CHARGER. MOST RECENT ISSUE: 1/9/2021.

PURCHASED JAN 2016. BATTERY DIED 3 TIMES WHILE ON TRIPS & CAR SAT FOR 2 WEEKS. REPLACED BATTERY DEC 2018. BATTERY DIED MULTIPLE TIMES WHILE ON TRIPS WHEN CAR SAT FOR 2+ WEEKS. LAST TIME, CAR SAT FOR 3 WEEKS. CAR WAS STARTED WITH JUMP BUT DIDN'T HOLD CHARGE. REPLACED BATTERY 3RD TIME JAN 2021.

UPON SLOWING DOWN & PULLING INTO A PARKING SPACE, TO PARK MY CAR IN FRONT OF A BUSINESS, MY VEHICLE SPONTANEOUSLY ACCELERATED FORWARD, UP OVER THE SIDEWALK. THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED A 2ND TIME AS I TRIED TO STOP THE VEHICLE WITH THE BRAKES. THE VEHICLE DID NOT STOP UNTIL IT IMPACTED THE WALL OF THE BUILDING.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK'S FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO APPARENT REASONS

PURCHASED VEHICLE IN AUGUST OF 2015. HAVE HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED MULTIPLE TIMES AS FOLLOWS: *11/20/2018 (608805) *11/01/2019 (630860) *05/18/2020 (641572) AS OF 01/05/2021, THE VEHICLE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN AND AT MOORE SUBARU IN RICHMOND, VIRGINIA FOR SERVICE. EACH TIME THE BATTERY HAS BEEN DEAD, IT HAS BEEN PARKED (DRIVEWAY OR WORK) AND WHEN TRYING TO START THE VEHICLE, IT WOULD MAKE A CLICKING NOISE. THIS TIME (1/5/21) THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD (DOORS WOULDN'T OPEN, NO NOISES WHEN TRYING TO START). WHEN THE BATTERY DIED IN MAY OF 2020, MOORE SUBARU HAD THE VEHICLE FOR APPROXIMATELY 5 DAYS TO SEE IF THEY COULD DETERMINE THE PROBLEM. THEY ULTIMATELY FOUND NOTHING MORE THAN A POTENTIALLY BAD BATTERY.

THE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE BELLOWS CRACKED. WHEN THE CAR WAS COLD STARTED AND THEN DRIVEN, A RATTLE CAME FROM THE ENGINE BAY WHEN DRIVEN AT 2500 RPM. WHEN THE ENGINE WARMS UP, THE RATTLE GOES AWAY. WHEN THE CAR IS PARKED, EXHAUST FUMES CAN BE SMELLED FROM OUTSIDE THE CAR.

VEHICLE BATTERY HAS UNEXPECTEDLY GONE DEAD THREE TIMES SINCE MARCH 2020. THIS IS AFTER A NEW SUBARU BATTERY WAS INSTALLED IN 2019. I UNDERSTAND THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM WITH SUBARU OUTBACKS (2016-2020). MY DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT REQUIRES SOFTWARE UPDATES WHICH DON'T SEEM TO WORKING. MY VEHICLE HAS 16000 MILES ON IT.

CAR DIES AND WON'T START A NEW BATTERY WILL LAST 6 MONTHS.

PREMATURE BATTERY FAILURE HAS HAPPENED ON A NUMBER OF OCCASIONS. WHETHER AT HOME OR AFTER A SHORT TRIP, THE CAR BECOMES UNABLE TO START WITHOUT ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WON'T START AS IF IT HAS DEAD BATTERY BUT THEN OPERATORS NORMALLY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME AFTER A JUMP START FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE OR AFTER BEING PLACED ON A BATTERY CHARGER.

THE BATTERY HAS GONE DEAD AT LEAST 3 TIMES, EVEN AFTER FRESH REPLACEMENT. THE FIRST TIME WAS DUE TO REAR INSIDE LIGHT BEING SWITCHED ON (ACCORDING TO THE SUBARU SERVICE TECHNICIAN). THE SECOND TIME WAS WHILE OUT RUNNING ERRANDS. THE THIRD TIME WAS AFTER BEING PARKED FOR TWO DAYS. THE BATTERY IS LESS THAN A YEAR OLD AND SHOULD NOT BE DRAINED FROM POWER LIKE THIS.

AT ABOUT 71,000 MILES, THERE IS AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WITH REMOVING THE IGNITION KEY FROM THE LOCK. THE VEHICLE IS ALWAYS STATIONARY WHEN THIS PROBLEM IS NOTICED.

BATTERY DRAIN ISSUE WHEN THE VEHICLE SITS FOR MORE THAN THREE DAYS WILL HAVE A WEAK START. BATTERY WILL DRAIN IF RADIO IS ON WITH CAR NOT RUNNING IN BETWEEN 15-30 MINUTES. MY SECOND BATTERY IS READY FOR REPLACEMENT IN 4 YEARS. TWO YEAR BATTERY LIFE IS UNACCEPTABLE. ATTACHING PICTURE OF WHEN THIS HAPPENED TO TWO SUBARU OUTBACK AT THE SAME TIME. UPON RESEARCH MANY SUBARU OWNERS HAVE THIS PROBLEM

CAR REPEATEDLY STOPPED WORKING BECAUSE OF DEAD BATTERY. CAR WAS PURCHASED NEW IN 2016. FIRST INSTANCE WAS WHEN LIFT GATE WAS LEFT OPEN OVER NIGHT IN GARAGE, 2 YEARS AFTER PURCHASE. SECOND INSTANCE WAS WHEN OVERHEAD LAMP WAS LEFT ON OVERNIGHT IN GARAGE. THIRD THE SAME AS SECOND IN A PARKING LOT. LAST INSTANCE WAS TODAY WHEN I DROVE A FEW MILES, PARKED CAR FOR AN HOUR AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AFTER THAT. LIFT GATE WAS OPENED 10 MINUTES BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO START THE CAR. AAA RESTARTED THE CAR IN ALL FOUR INSTANCES.

BATTERY DRAINS PREMATURELY. THE VEHICLE IS 5 YEARS OLD AND IS IN NEED OF A 3RD BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN JUMP STARTED 4 TIMES OVER THE YEARS.

KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN PARKED AFTER DRIVING. REQUIRES MULTIPLE SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE AND BACK TO PARK BEFORE KEY WILL RELEASE. FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE IS NOW EVERY OTHER DAY. VEHICLE HAS 48,500 MILES ON IT CURRENTLY.

I REPLACED THE INITIAL BATTERY ON 10/22/2018 WITH A BATTERY RECOMMENDED FOR THIS VEHICLE. 4/17/20 I REPLACED THE BATTERY AGAIN. ON NOVEMBER 15, 2020 THE CAR BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DRAINED. I PURCHASED A POWER PACK TO KEEP IN THE CAR FOR EMERGENCIES. ON DECEMBER 2, 2020 THE CAR BATTERY WAS COMPLETED DRAINED AGAIN. LUCKILY, I WAS STATIONARY WHEN THESE INCIDENTS HAPPENED. AFTER THESE TWO INCIDENTS, I AM TAKING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW. I TRAVEL FOR WORK TO SOME REMOTE PLACES AND AM NO LONGER CONFIDENT IN THIS CAR'S PERFORMANCE.

WE ARE REPORTING THIS TODAY, BUT THIS ISSUE HAS GONE ON FOR 2 YEARS. PURCHASED AN OUTBACK USED FROM THE DEALER. BATTERY CONTINUALLY DIES, LEAVING US STRANDED AT HOME OR AWAY FROM HOME. SUBARU DEALER SAYS THE BATTERY TEST GOOD, AND TELL US WE JUST NEED TO DRIVE THE CAR MORE OFTEN. THIS CAR IS DRIVEN DAILY, SO THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM. DEALER SAYS THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT. AFTER SEARCHING FOR SIMILAR ISSUES FROM OTHER OWNERS, IT'S EVIDENT SUBARU IS COVERING THIS UP. UNFORTUNATELY WITHOUT SUBARU WILLING TO FIX THE ISSUE AND NOT TELLING US HOW TO FIX IT WE'RE STUCK WITH THE CAR IN ITS CURRENT STATE.

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. CRACKED UNDER MINIMAL STRESS IN HEAT AND COLD WHILE IN MOTION. INSURANCE DID NOT COVER DEDUCTIBLES OR ALTERNATE TRANSPORTATION DURING REPAIRS

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. WINDSHIELDS CRACKED WITH MINIMAL STRESS MOSTLY WHILE IN MOTION AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS.

CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM DEALER. IT RAINED WITHIN A COUPLE DAYS AND DISCOVERED THE WIPERS DIDN'T WORK. DEALER FIXED. MULTIPLE TIMES THE BATTERY HAS DIED. DEALER NO HELP AT ALL AND BLAMES IT ON BATTERY. REPLACED THE BATTERY IN 2017. STILL OFTEN HAVE BATTERY DIE AND WE ALWAYS TURN OFF THE CAR ENTIRELY AND LOCK IT. ONCE IT EVEN DIED AFTER MY FAMILY SPENT ALL DAY AT THE BEACH AND WE WERE STRANDED.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK - THIS STARTED BACK IN MARCH 2020 WHEN WE REDUCED TRAVEL DUE TO COVID-19. IF THE CAR IS STATIONARY/PARKED AND NOT DRIVEN OR STARTED THE BATTERY WILL GO DOWN WITHIN 7 TO 10 DAYS. AT THAT TIME THE CAR REMOTE WILL NOT OPEN ANY DOOR OR TAILGATE BUT THE SECURITY DASH LIGHT WILL STILL BE BLINKING. THE CAR WAS PARKED WITH THE BUILT IN SUBARU ALARM SET. THE CAR CAN BE OPENED WITH THE KEY BUT THE ALARM IS NOT TRIGGERED AS NORMALLY WOULD HAPPEN. THE INTERIOR LIGHTS DO NOT LIGHT WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED. THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE TURNED OFF ON THE COLUMN CONTROL. NO LIGHTS ARE REMAINING ON EXTERNALLY OR INTERNALLY WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY/PARKED. THE CAR MUST BE CHARGED OR BATTERY REPLACED (ALREADY REPLACED THE BATTERY ONCE) BEFORE IT CAN BE STARTED. AFTER THE CAR HAD BEEN CHARGED AND THE DOOR IS OPENED THE BUILT IN SUBARU ALARM SYSTEM IS TRIGGERED - THE REMOTE WILL NOW WORK AND SHUTS THE ALARM OFF.

WE HAD A DANGEROUS SITUATION WITH OUR CHILD A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO AND HAD TO SET THE CHILD LOCK ON THE REAR PASSENGER DOOR (PASSENGER SIDE). THE CHILD LOCK DOES NOT UNDO NOW. AFTER AN INTERNET SEARCH, THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM/DEFECT FOR MANY OWNERS, ESPECIALLY AFTER SETTING THE CHILD LOCKS FOR THE FIRST TIME. THIS IS A DANGEROUS SITUATION AS THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM THE INSIDE NOW AT ALL AND WE DON'T NEED THE CHILD LOCKS ACTIVATED. IT IS VERY FRUSTRATING FOR OUR KIDS WHO ARE TEENAGERS TO NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR.

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME WE'VE HAD TO REPLACE OUR 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY. IT BEGINS WITH A SLUGGISH START AND THEN EVENTUALLY, THE BATTERY WON'T TURN THE ENGINE.

I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER HAVING PURCHASED THE VEHICLE ON 10/13/2015. I HAVE HAD 4 BATTERIES SINCE INITIAL OWNERSHIP: 1.10/13/2015 2.10/21/2017 (SUBARU REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY) 3.4/14/2019 (PURCHASED BATTERY FROM CSAA) 4.10/28/2020 (REPLACED BY CSAA) IT APPEARS TO HAVE A DEFECTIVE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

PURCHASED THE VEHICLE, CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED, IN 2018. AFTER ONLY ONE YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, THE BATTERY DIED AND IT WAS REPLACED. IN 2020, HAVE NOW HAD THE BATTERY DIE ON THREE OCCASIONS: 1) AFTER VEHICLE ENGINE IS OFF, RADIO IS ON FOR SHORT PERIOD OF TIME (LESS THAN 20 MINS), HAVING JUST DRIVEN FOR ~5 HOURS 2) 1 WEEK LATER, AFTER DAILY DRIVING, DOORS ARE OPEN FOR ~15 MINS FROM LOADING UP THE CAR - AT THIS POINT WE TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALER, BUT THEY COULD NOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE. 3) 1 MONTH LATER, AFTER RADIO IS ON FOR ~1 HOUR 30 MINUTES, MANAGED TO START VEHICLE 3 TIMES DURING THAT 1.5 HOURS, BUT ON THE 4TH ATTEMPT IT DID NOT WORK. MEANWHILE 6 OTHER VEHICLES, OF VARIOUS MAKES AND MODELS, WHO ALSO HAD THEIR RADIOS ON FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME, WERE ABLE TO DRIVE AWAY WITHOUT ISSUE.

MY 2016 OUTBACK BATTERY IS CONSTANTLY GOING DEAD FOR NO REASON WHAT SO EVER. IF IT SITS FOR ONE DAY WITHOUT BEING DRIVEN, THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD. I CAN SWITCH OUT THE BATTERY AND IT WILL FIX THE ISSUE FOR A FEW MONTHS, THEN BACK TO THE BATTERY BEING DEAD IF THE CAR SITS FOR ONE DAY WITHOUT BEING DRIVEN. IT'S NOT THE BATTERY, IT'S THE CAR! IT'S HAPPENED TO ME MORE TIMES THAN I CAN COUNT.

VEHICLE'S BATTERY CONTINUES TO DRAIN FOR NO APPARENT REASON. THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE SINCE WE BOUGHT THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKE TO SUBARU FOR WARRANTY SERVICE AND THEY DEEMED THERE WAS NOT AN ISSUE. WE HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY TWICE AND THE SAME ISSUE PERSISTS.

WIFE HAD AN ACCIDENT WHERE SHE PULLED IN FRONT OF LARGE F350 TRUCK, HIT ON PASSENGER SIDE. SHE WAS GOING 15 MPH, AND TRUCK WAS GOING 50-60 MPH. THE SIDE CURTAIN AND FRONT AIRBAG ON PASSENGER SIDE DEPLOYED. HER CAR ALSO HIT A SIGN AND TREE, CAVING IN THE FRONT OF VEHICLE. HER DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAGS DID NOT DEPLOY AND SHE WAS SEVERELY INJURED AND SPENT 8 DAYS IN HOSPITAL. LOST PARTIAL DENTURES, ANOTHER TOOTH AND BENT HER IMPLANT WHEN HER FACE HIT STEERING WHEEL. SHE HAD ABOUT 150 STITCHES TO FACE AND HAS PERMANENT SCARING TO FACE AS A RESULT OF THE FAILURE OF AIRBAG TO DEPLOY. SHE WAS WEARING SEAT BELT AND HAS BRUISES TO SHOW FOR IT. THE DRIVER'S SIDE AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED. AIRBAG IS MADE BY TAKATA. COULD NOT FIND ANY OPEN RECALLS ON AIRBAG. INITIAL IMPACT WAS TO RIGHT SIDE, AND THEN FRONT OF HER 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK STRUCK TREE AND SIGN. AIRBAG SHOULD HAVE DEPLOYED.

PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE 3/2019, STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE BATTERY DYING IN A FEW MONTHS, EVEN HAVING THE HATCH OPEN DURING CLEANING WOULD DRAIN THE BATTERY. WE WOULD JUMP IT WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE AND THE BATTERY WOULD DRAIN IN A FEW DAYS WHETHER WE USED THE VEHICLE OR NOT. I HAVE BEEN STRANDED ALONE IN NOT A SAFE ENVIRONMENT N MORE THAN ONE OCCASION. TOOK THE BATTERY IN TO BE CHECKED AND THEY SAID IT WAS FINE. PURCHASED A BATTERY TENDER AND WOULD LEAVE IT HOOKED UP AND THEN FINALLY THAT NO LONGER FUNCTIONED. HAD TO PURCHASE A NEW BATTERY. WE WILL SEE HOW LONG THIS ONE WILL LAST BEFORE THE SAME THING HAPPENS. SINCE WE LIVE FAR OUT OF TOWN WE RELY ON THIS CAR TO BE IN TIP TOP RUNNING ORDER FOR ANY EMERGENCIES WE MAY HAVE. NOT THE CASE, SORRY TO SAY, BUT I REALLY EXPECTED MORE FROM SUBARU AND RIGHTFULLY SO. THEY HAVE EARNED AN AMAZING REPUTATION SO SURPRISED THEY KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND WON'T FIX IT.

BATTERY HAS DIED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 MONTHS WHEN NOTHING WAS LEFT ON AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK. IT CONTINUES TO DRAIN EVEN WHEN WE REPLACED WITH A HIGH LEVEL BATTERY

WE PURCHASED A 2016 OUTBACK IN 2019 WITH RELATIVELY LOW MILEAGE AND WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OWNING THE BATTERY FAILED ON US MULTIPLE TIMES AND THE CAR REQUIRED A JUMP IN ORDER TO START. THIS HAPPENED WHEN ON GROCERY TRIPS, OUTSIDE OUR HOUSE IN THE MORNING, AND EVEN MULTIPLE TIMES IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER WHEN RETURNING TO THE AIRPORT AFTER A BUSINESS TRIP. AFTER SEEING A MECHANIC, PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY AND STILL ENCOUNTERED THE SAME ISSUE. WE SAW A SECOND MECHANIC, AND PURCHASED A NEW ALTERNATOR RECENTLY AND CONTINUE TO HAVE FREQUENT BATTERY FAILURES, SOMETIMES AS OFTEN AS ONCE PER WEEK, REQUIRING A JUMP TO START THE CAR. THIS SEEMS VERY ODD GIVEN THE NEWNESS OF THE CAR, BATTERY, AND ALTERNATOR AND WE BELIEVE THERE IS SOMETHING DEFECTIVE WITH THE CAR WIRING. THIS MONTH WE HAD AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC LOOK AT THE CAR AND HE COULD FIND NO ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR, HIS THOUGHT WAS IT COULD BE DUE TO FAULTY VEHICLE WIRING. WE THEN RESEARCHED AND HEARD THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR OUR MODEL / YEAR AGAINST SUBARU FOR THIS AND BELIEVE OUR VEHICLE IS IMPACTED. THIS HAPPENS VERY OFTEN, WE NOW HAVE PURCHASED A PORTABLE BATTERY PACK SO WE CAN JUMP OUR CAR AS NEEDED AND AGAIN THE ISSUE HAPPENED THIS MORNING.

WINDSHIELDS KEEPS CRACKING. REPAIRS ARE EXPENSIVE BECAUSE OF EYESIGHT CALIBRATION. WINDSHIELD CRACKED SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE IN EARLY 2018, REPAIRED IT IMMEDIATELY, THEN CRACKED AGAIN WITHIN 2 OR 3 MONTHS. CRACK BOTH TIMES SPREAD MORE THAN 6 INCHES IN LESS THAN AN HOUR.

BATTERY IS DRAINED PREMATURELY. POSSIBLY BY A DRAIN FROM THE ECM. I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AFTER ONLY 1 YEAR OF USE.

BATTERY DIES WHEN PARKED IN GARAGE, SOMETIMES ONLY AFTER SITTING OVERNIGHT. CAREFUL TO BE SURE NO LIGHTS ARE LEFT ON OR DOORS AJAR. I'M NOW ON MY THIRD BATTERY IN 4 YEARS. REPLACED OEM BATTERY WITH UP SIZED GROUP 34 TO INCREASE CCA AND RESERVE CAPACITY. ALSO PURCHASED A LITHIUM ION JUMP STARTER TO CARRY AROUND IN CASE OF DEAD BATTERY. THE UPSIZED BATTERY BEGAN FAILING AGAIN AFTER 2 YEARS. REPLACED WITH UPSIZED AGM BATTERY. CAN'T TRUST THE CAR TO SAFELY TRANSPORT MY WIFE AND GRANDCHILDREN ANYMORE.

I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY YET WHEN TRAVELING I NEED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, RESTART THE CAR STRESSING MY IGNITION SYSTEM, OR MOVE SLIGHTLY IN REVERSE AND BACK TO PARK TO REMOVE THE KEY. EACH TIME IS DIFFERENT, SOMETIMES I CAN REMOVE THE KEY, SOMETIMES I CANNOT.

WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED UP ON A COLD MORNING IT IDLES TOO FAST AND LURCHES DANGEROUSLY WHEN PUT INTO DRIVE. I HAVE TO HOLD THE CAR BACK WITH FIRM BRAKING. I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS CLOSE CALLS OVER THE LAST FOUR YEARS THAT I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. THE CAR IS A 2016 OUTBACK 3.6 R WITH A 6 CYLINDER ENGINE.

MY KEYS KEPT GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE OF AN ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION THAT CAUSED THE STEERING COLUMN TO BE UNABLE TO DETECT WHEN THE CAR WAS PUT INTO PARK. I HAD THE ENTIRE GEAR SHIFTER REPLACED. THIS SEEMS TO BE A FAR TOO COMMON PROBLEM ON THIS MODEL OF SUBARU OUTBACKS. THIS IS THE NUMBER 1 CAR COMPLAINT AND THOUSANDS OF FOLKS ON FORUMS REPORT THE SAME ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HER VEHICLE WAS IN THE DRIVEWAY OF HER RESIDENCE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT ASKED A NEIGHBOR FOR ASSISTANCE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WAS TAKEN OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE A NEW BATTERY WAS PURCHASED. (BATTERY TYPE INTERSTATE 25-550 FITMENT 6). THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED BY THE TECHNICIAN. NO DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE HOWEVER, INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT NO KNOWLEDGE OF THE FAILURE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 24,000.*DT CONSUMER STATED BATTERY DIED A YEAR LATER AFTER REPLACEMENT.*JB

A VALVE SPRING FAILED, CAUSING THE VALVE TO BREAK AND BECOME EMBEDDED IN THE PISTON.THIS CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO BE INOPERABLE.

WITH 39000+ MILES ON WE ARE ON 3RD BATTERY. WAITING FOR RELATIVE TO HELP..HUSBAND DISABLED AND HAD TO CANCEL DR APPT TODAY AS IT WOULD NOT START...SCARED TO GO ANYWHERE FOR FEAR IT WILL NOT START. NOT GOOD.FORTUNATELY MOST TIMES IT HAS BEEN IN THE GARAGE. ALWAYS GARAGED.

II WAS DRIVING ON AN OPEN HIGHWAY WITH NO CARS IN CLOSE VICINITY WHEN WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO APPARENT REASON. CRACK WAS ON DRIVER SIDE NEAR EDGE ABOUT 12 INCHES LONG. ON INVESTIGATION, THERE WERE NO NICKS OR PITS IN THE WINDSHIELD, JUST THE CRACK. WHEN THE WINDSHIELD WAS BEING REPLACED, THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT IT WAS WIERD THAT A SIMILAR CRACK DEVELOPED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD AS HE WAS REMOVING THE SHIELD FROM THE CAR.

CURRENTLY AT LEAST A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK, MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHILE SHUTTING OFF VEHICLE TO PARK. YOU CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF, BUT YOU CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY. IF I FIDDLE WITH THE SHIFTER AND ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL, RESTART THE VEHICLE, AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE, AND THEN SLAM IT BACK INTO PARK, THEN I CAN TURN THE VEHICLE OFF AND THE KEY WILL COME OUT. . BUT SOMETIMES I HAVE TO REPEAT THE PROCEDURE A FEW TIMES. THIS STARTED WHEN VEHICLE WAS APPROX A YEAR OLD AND I THOUGHT THAT MAYBE I HAD THE STEERING WHEEL NOT IN THE CORRECT LOCATION FOR THE KEY TO BE REMOVED AS TIME PASSED THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I THEN DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT A LOT OF OTHERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE.

SUBARU SERVICE DEPARTMENT BERTERA SUBARU OF HARTFORD STATING IGNITION SWITCH PLATE NEEDS REPLACEMENT $650 JOB MULTIPLE OCCURRENCES WITH OTHER VEHICLES OF SAME MODEL YEAR

FRONT WINDSHIELD CRACKED, ORIGINATING FROM THE EDGE OF THE WINDOW, ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO WHILE PARKED WITHOUT ANY OVERHANGING HAZARDS OR ADVERSE WEATHER. THERE IS NO ASSOCIATED GLASS 'DING' FROM AN IMPACT. I BELIEVE THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM THAT LED TO A LAWSUIT AGAINST SUBARU INVOLVING 2015-2016 OUTBACK'S.

I HAVE HAD 3 BATTERIES REPLACED IN THE PAST FOUR YEARS. PERIODICALLY THE BATTERY JUST DRAINS UNEXPECTEDLY AND I AM STUCK WHEREVER THE VEHICLE HAPPENS TO BE PARKED. THIS IS NOT A RESULT OF LIGHTS BEING LEFT ON, DOORS OPEN, RADIO ON, ETC. SUBARU REPLACES THE BATTERIES UNDER WARRANTY, BUT WILL NOT ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AND I NEVER KNOW WHEN THE CAR WILL GET STUCK BECAUSE OF A DRAINED BATTERY.

WE PURCHASED A CAR BRAND NEW IN SAVANNAH, GA AND SINCE HAVE REPLACED WINDSHIELD THREE TIMES. IT HAS A SMALL CRACK AGAIN. ALL OUR REPLACEMENTS OCCURRED AGAINST OUR INSURANCE. OUR COVERAGE HAS INCREASE IN PREMIUMS. PREVIOUSLY, I NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH WINDSHIELD CRACKED ON REGULAR OCCURRENCE. ANOTHER ISSUE - WHEN IT RAINS THE VISIBILITY IS EXTREMELY POOR. DESPITE I BUY THE EXPENSIVE WIPERS TO REPLACE THEM AT LEAST ONCE IN 12 MONTHS UNABLE TO ADJUST/INCREASE THE WIPER SPEED FOR THE HEAVY RAIN MAKES THE DRIVING EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. OPTIONAL EYESIGHT WHICH WAS ADDED AS AN OPTION IS SHUTS ITSELF DUE TO THE HEAVY RAIN AND IS NO HELP. EYESIGHT IS ALSO UNDERPERFORM WHAT WAS PROMISED BY MANUFACTURER. ALL ABOVE APPLIES FOR VEHICLE IN MOTION.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE TRANSMISSION IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK STARTED MAKING A LOUD GRINDING SOUND AND VIOLENTLY HALTED THE CAR TO A STOP. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH THAT IT WASN'T DURING A BUSY TIME AND AN ACCIDENT WAS NARROWLY AVOIDED. THIS TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD 67,000 MILES ON IT AND IS ACTUALLY THE SECOND TRANSMISSION THAT CAR HAS HAD. IN 2018 THE TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER 68,000 MILES. LUCKILY IT WAS FULLY COVERED UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY I PURCHASED WHEN I BOUGHT IT. LATER THE TRANSMISSIONS WERE GIVEN A WARRANTY EXTENSION WHICH EXTENDED THE WARRANTY TO 100,000. THE NEWEST TRANSMISSION (THE ONE THAT JUST VIOLENTLY GRINDED TO A HALT ON THE HIGHWAY) CURRENTLY HAS 67,000 MILES ON THAT NEW TRANSMISSION, BUT SUBARU WILL NOT HONOR THE 100,000 WARRANTY EXTENSION BECAUSE THE REMAINDER OF THE VEHICLE HAS 135,000 MILES ON IT. I DO COUNT MYSELF LUCKY THAT THIS DIDN'T CAUSE AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE I HAD MY FAMILY IN THE VEHICLE WITH ME AND WE COULD'VE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT.

WITHOUT WARNING THE SUNROOF GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 40 MILES PER HOUR

WE HAVE HAD 2 MAJOR ISSUES WITH THIS CAR: 1- MULTIPLE EPISODES OF BATTERY FAILURE REQUIRING A JUMP START OVER THE LAST YEAR. THIS HAS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WAS NOT USED FOR A WEEK, BUT ALSO RANDOMLY AFTER A DRIVE. JUST HAPPENED 4 DAYS AGO AFTER A 30 MINUTE HIGHWAY DRIVE- WHEN WE CAME BACK OUT TO THE CAR AFTER 15 MINUTES, IT WOULDN'T START. WE JUMP STARTED IT, AND IT WAS FINE FOR A FEW DAYS, BUT NOW DEAD AGAIN IN MY DRIVEWAY. THE CAR OFTEN HAS A SHUDDERING AND OCCASIONAL STALL WHEN STARTING IT. MOST WORRISOME, I WAS RECENTLY DRIVING WITH MY DAUGHTER AND AFTER WE EXITED THE HIGHWAY, AND SLOWED DOWN FOR A TOLL, THE CAR LOST IT'S ACCELERATION, DESPITE RPMS REVVING. WE PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, TURNED THE CAR OFF AND RE-STARTED, AND IT RAN REGULARLY HOME, BUT THIS WAS FRIGHTENING.

WHEN THE LIFTGATE IS CLOSING A "CLICKING" NOISE IS MADE DUE TO STRESS ON THE LIFTGATE MOTOR. THIS IS CAUSED BECAUSE OF THE SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF STRAIN ON THE MOTOR TO OPEN THE LIFTGATE. THIS IS A SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE THE MOTOR WAS DESIGNED TO BE UNDER SIGNIFICANT STRESS AND WHEN IT FAILS, WILL CAUSE THE LIFTGATE TO FALL POTENTIALLY INJURING MY CHILDREN UNLOADING THE TRUNK. THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP AGREED THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE RESOLVED BUT DOES NOT COVER THE COST OF REPAIRING THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN TURNED OFF. INTERMITTENT ISSUE, APPEARS MANY PEOPLE HAVE THE PROBLEM. APPEARS THAT DEALERS WANT TO CHARGE BIG $$ TO FIX, SUBARU NEEDS TO STEP UP, THERE IS A TSP ON THIS ISSUE

WHEN YOU SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF THEY KEY GETS STUCK IN ACCESSORY MODE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. PROBLEM OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY.

BATTERY DIES UNEXPECTEDLY WITHIN A FEW MINUTES OF THE VEHICLE OFF AND IN ACCESSORY MODE ONLY (I.E. CAR OFF, RADIO OR LIGHTS ON). VEHICLE WILL NOT START WITHOUT JUMP FROM BATTERY PACK OR ANOTHER VEHICLE. CAR WILL NOT EVEN CRANK BUT WILL ONLY MAKE A CLICKING NOISE. OCCASIONALLY, ENGINE TIMING WILL BE AFFECTED AFTER JUMP AND MISFIRES WILL OCCUR CAUSING VEHICLE TO RUN VERY ROUGH UNTIL RESTARTED, AT WHICH POINT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SEEMS TO RESET ITSELF. TO DATE, DEALER HAS FOUND NO DIRECT CAUSE FOR THE PROBLEM (I.E. NO PARASITIC DRAWS) BUT HAS REPLACED THE BATTERY (WHICH ARE UNDER WARRANTY) MULTIPLE TIMES. PROBLEM HAS OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE IT WAS PURCHASED IN LATE 2015.

ABOUT 4 WEEKS AGO WE STARTED HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING OUR KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER DRIVING AND PUTTING THE SHIFTER IN PARK. OUR 2015 OUTBACK HAS JUST OVER 58,000 MILES. THE KEY WON'T TURN TO THE FINAL "CLICK" FOR REMOVAL. THAT LEAVES THE CAR IN A MODE WHERE THE BATTERY IS STILL ENGAGED AS THE RADIO IS STILL ON. THE STEERING WHEEL DOES NOT GO INTO A LOCKED POSITION, IT CAN BE TURNED EITHER DIRECTION WITHOUT RESISTANCE. I HAVE TO START THE CAR AGAIN AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE AND TRY TURNING THE CAR OFF AGAIN. SOMETIMES I ONLY HAVE TO DO THAT ONCE BUT THERE HAVE BEEN MANY TIMES WHEN IT TAKES 20-30 ATTEMPTS TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. I'M USUALLY ON A FAIRLY FLAT SURFACE. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF I WAS DRIVING FORWARD OR REVERSE BEFORE STOPPING. SUBARU RELEASED A SERVICE BULLETIN # 16-112-18R ISSUED 03/15/18 AND REVISED 11/06/18 THAT DESCRIBES THE PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION BUT SUBARU SAYS IT IS NOT A RECALL ISSUE. THEY ADMIT IT'S A FAULTY PARTS PROBLEM BUT WON'T FIX IT IN A RECALL. ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE BULLETIN I SHOULD REPLACE "SHIFT LEVER COMPLETE". SOME OWNERS WHO HAD THIS DONE SAID IT'S OVER $500 TO REPAIR, DEPENDING ON THE DEALERSHIP.

SINCE PURCHASING VEHICLE ON 6/16/2016 WE HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ENGAGING THE AUTO-REVERSING (ANTI-ENTRAPMENT) FEATURE CAUSING AN INABILITY TO CLOSE WINDOW. WE HAVE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES SOMETIMES DOCUMENTED, SOMETIMES NOT. THEY RESET SWITCH, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO RETURN. ON OUR LAST VISIT6/31/2020 WE WERE TOLD THERE WAS A TSB (12-272-19R) BUT WE WOULD BE CHARGED $276.22 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED. WE ALSO PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $2547.00 GOOD UNTIL 6/16/2026 OR 126000 MILES AND WERE TURNED DOWN ON COVERAGE FROM THEM AS WELL.

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ALL OF SUDDEN HAD WARNING LIGHTS SUCH AS: BRAKE, ABS, AND STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL POPPED UP ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK ANS WHEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WILL NOT GO AWAY. IT HAS MADE MY STEERING WHEEL REALLY HARD TO TURN.

THE BATTERY IN THE CAR HAS FAILED 4 TIMES IN 4 YEARS. SUBARU CANNOT FIND THE REASON FOR THE FAILURE. THIS IS NOT NORMAL AND APPEARS TO BE DEFECT IN THE CAR. I AM NOT GETTING ANY ANSWERS FROM SUBARU ON WHY IS THIS HAPPENING.THE CAR WAS PARKED AT HOME OVER NIGHT THE OTHER 2 TIMES JUST AFTER ARRIVING AT OUR CAMP SITE. WE STOP THE CAR AND THEN SHORTLY ATTEMPT TO RESTART THE CAR AND NOTHING HAPPENS. EACH TIME THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN HUNDRED OF MILES. EACH CAMPING TIME WE WERE HUNDREDS OF MILES FROM HOME AND WITHOUT CELL PHONE SERVICE. I HAVE REPORTS FROM SUBARU AND AUTO ZONE ON REPLACING THE BATTERIES.

THE BATTERY PREMATURELY DIES, TYPICALLY AFTER USING THE RADIO OR OTHER ACCESSORIES FOR ONLY A SHORT WHILE (10 MINUTES) WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MY VEHICLE 2 TIMES IN THE LAST 4 MONTHS. IN BOTH CASES, THE BATTERY HAS BEEN TESTED AND SHOWN TO BE FINE.

THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. BESIDES BEING ANNOYING, THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM BEING LOCKED THUS INTRODUCES A THEFT RISK. EVENTUALLY, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY BUT THERE IS NO CONSISTENT METHOD OF DOING SO. IT'S A MATTER OF TIME AND MESSING WITH TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF, MOVING THE SHIFTER, JIGGLING THE KEY, OR MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE IT COMES OUT. GOOGLE INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH SUBARUS SO I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. THIS HAPPENS SPORADICALLY AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS.

I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY TWICE IN TWO YEARS. NORMAL OPERATION DRAINS BATTERY PREMATURELY.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN 4 YEARS. I PURCHASED THE CAR NEW ON 2/29/2016-YES LEAP YEAR. EACH TIME THE BATTERY WAS TOTALLY DRAINED. THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY WAS REPLACED WITH A BETTER DELCO BATTERY, AND THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO BATTER 18 MONTHS AGO AND NOW TODAY! STILL WAITING AT THE GARAGE. MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ON THE NHTSA WEBSITE BUT NO RECALLS! SOMETHING IS DRAWING THE BATTERY DOWN WHICH TO ME IS A SAFETY ISSUE. WHEN DO ENOUGH COMPLAINTS WARRANT A RECALL? THIS IS ABSURD. EACH TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED MY SUBARU WAS IN AN UNDERGROUND GARAGE.

THIS MORNING 7/21/2020 MY BATTERY FAILED FOR THE 4TH TIME IN A LITTLE OVER 4 YEARS. DEAD, COMPLETELY DRAINED ACCORDING TO AAA. FIRST THE ORIGINAL SUBARU BATTERY, THEN A BETTER DELCO REPLACED THAT, THEN ANOTHER BETTER DELCO, NOW ANOTHER. ONLY 27,000 PLUS MILES. I HAVE NEEDED TO HAVE THIS BATTERY JUMPED ONCE BEFORE AND THE PREVIOUS BATTERIES WERE JUMPED A TOTAL OF 5 TIMES. THE NHTSA WEBSITE HAS NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS ABOUT BATTERY FAILURE FOR THIS MAKE/MODEL AND OTHER SUBARU OUTBACKS BUT NO RECALLS. WHY NOT? THIS IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE! I AM TOLD THAT "SOMETHING" IN THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS IS DRAWING DOWN THE BATTERY BUT IT CANNOT BE FOUND. THERE IS A FLAW SOMEWHERE. NOTHING WAS LEFT ON. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS TO KNOW ABOUT THIS. REALLY

THE IGNITION KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO STOP THE VEHICLE TO PARK, THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN PROBLEM AS FAR AS INTERNET REPORTS GO YET SUBARU HAS NOT BEEN CALLED OUT ON THIS. THIS MEANS THAT THE CUSTOMER MY BE REQUIRED TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION SHOULD SOME OTHER EMERGENCY ARISE.

FOR A FEW YEARS OFF AND ON WITH THE CAR STOPPED AND ATTEMPTING TO COMPLETE PARKING, THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN FROM THE ACC TO OFF POSITION OR RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. OF THE SEVERAL TIMES WE MENTIONED IT TO MULTIPLE DEALERSHIPS, WE WERE TOLD IT WAS OUR TECHNIQUE, NOT A PROBLEM WITH THE VEHICLE. FINALLY A DEALERSHIP REPORTED THE SHIFT ASSEMBLY WAS NOT RECOGNIZING THE CAR WAS IN PARK THUS WOULD NOT TURN THE KEY PAST THE ACCESSORY POSITION TO OFF OR RELEASE THE KEY. THIS OCCURRED WITH MULTIPLE KEYS AND DIFFERENT PEOPLE. THE SAFETY ISSUE IS THAT YOU CANNOT LOCK THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. ALSO, IF YOU CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY AND LEAVE THE CAR, YOU ARE HANDING THE CAR OVER TO WHOMEVER WANTS TO STEAL IT. ONLY WITH LOTS OF TIME, STARTING THE CAR, PUTTING IT INTO ANOTHER GEAR, THEN BACK TO PARK AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN, WITH LUCK THE ASSEMBLY RECOGNIZES YOU ARE IN PARK AND ALLOWS THE KEY TURN TO OFF AND ALLOWS THE KEY TO BE REMOVED. THE DEALERSHIP WHO IDENTIFIED THE DEFECTIVE SHIFT ASSEMBLY STATED THE ONLY FIX IS TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY AT A COST OF $1100.00.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I TRY TO TURN THE CAR OFF (EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK). BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ, THIS IS A DEFECT WITH A SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. I THINK THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS PARTICULAR DEFECT. I BELIEVE THE SERVICE BULLETIN THAT ADDRESSES THIS DEFECT IS TSB NUMBER 16-112-18R.

THE KEY CANNOT BE REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE APPROX 50% OF THE TIME. KEY STAYS IN THE "ON" POSITION WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING. THE CAR HAS TO BE RESTARTED, SHIFTED INTO REVERSE, THEN FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE THE KEY CAN SAFELY BE REMOVED. IF LEFT IN THE IGNITION THE BATTERY IS STILL ON, AND A CHILD COULD INADVERTENTLY START THE CAR. THIS IS CLEARLY IDENTIFIED AS A PROBLEM IN SUBARU SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER: 16-112-18R DATE: 03/15/18 REVISED: 11/06/18 THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL! THEY HAVE CHANGED THE PART TO PREVENT THIS IN NEWER MODELS. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR OVER A YEAR

WE WERE DRIVING ON I5 NORTH THROUGH WASHINGTON ON A ROADTRIP (GOING ~65MPH), ABOUT TO ENTER A THUNDERSTORM, AND OUR MOONROOF UNEXPECTEDLY SHATTERED, MAKING AN EXPLOSION SOUND. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS HURT AND WE WERE ABLE TO GO TO A NEARBY FORD DEALERSHIP TO HELP US PATCH THE CAR SO WE COULD MAKE OUR 2+ HOUR DRIVE HOME, BUT IT WAS ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYING. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, WE THINK IT'S IN RELATION TO THE PRESSURE DIFFERENCE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. THERE WAS LITTLE GLASS IN THE CAR, MAKING IT SEEM AS IF THE EXPLOSION WAS COMING FROM INSIDE. NO ROCK OR DEBRIS HITTING THE CAR WAS NOTICED. HERE'S MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ISSUE FROM AN ARTICLE LAST YEAR THAT REFERENCED NHTSA: HTTPS://WWW.KGW.COM/ARTICLE/NEWS/LOCAL/MY-SUNROOF-EXPLODED-GOVERNMENT-INVESTIGATING-EXPLODING-SUNROOFS/283-C529D7E5-F2C4-488E-AE34-96F781AD5466.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH FAILED TO ALLOW THE REMOVAL OF THE KEY WHILE THE GEAR SHIFTER WAS IN THE PARK POSITION. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WITH THE GEAR SHIFTER IN THE DRIVE POSITION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. A DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,000.

MY 2016 OUTBACK ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO HAD A DEAD BATTERY WHILE OUT ON A FAMILY TRIP TO ARKANSAS. JUST TOOK A BATTERY BUMP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE AND WORKED FINE. THEN THIS FRIDAY IT RAN FINE FOR FIVE HOURS AWAY FROM HOME. SATURDAY MORNING RAN SEVERAL ERRANDS WITH IN A 60 MILE RADIUS SUNDAY MORNING STARTED THE CAR, MOVED IT TO A DIFFERENT LOCATION TO MAKE LOADING LUGGAGE EASIER THEN GOT IN TO GO AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. WAS SUPPLIED WITH A 2AMP HOUR CHARGER AND WAS TOLD THAT IT MIGHT TAKE AN HOURS FOR IT TO BUILD UP ENOUGH JUICE TO START. SAT FOR THIRTY MINUTES, HIT THE KEY AND IT FIRED OFF JUST FINE. DROVE BACK FOR FIVE HOURS STOPPING AND STARTING WITH NO ISSUES, RAN THE CAR BY OREILLY AUTO PARTS AND THEY TEST BATTERY AND SAID IT LOOKED FINE AND THAT IT WAS CHARGING GOOD. BACKED CAR IN GARAGE AND UNLOADED IT AND MONDAY MORNING, IT WAS DEAD, WHILE HOOKING MY CHARGER UP TO IT I NOTICED THAT THE BATTERY WAS WARM. STARTED UP JUST FINE WITH CHARGER ON BUST, NO ISSUES COMING TO WORK, KEEPING MY FINGERS CROSSED WHEN I GO OUT TO LUNCH.

MY 2016 OUTBACK'S HORN STOPPED WORKING. OVER A YEAR AGO, IT STARTED WORKING ONLY WHEN I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL, THEN EVENTUALLY IN JULY 2019, IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. IT IS MOSTLY AN ANNOYANCE, BUT I CAN'T USE IT TO WARN OTHERS. I CALLED AN TOLD MY DEALER'S SERVICE DEPT, BUT THEY NEVER GOT BACK TO ME. LATER ON, I TALKED TO THEM, BUT WAS TOLD THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY DO KNOW THE PART ON IT THAT "GOES". I THOUGHT THAT IF I GOT AN EXPENSIVE MILEAGE CHECK UP SERVICE THAT THEY WOULD FEEL BADLY THAT THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A "PART THAT GOES" AND FIX IT, BUT THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO DO ANYTHING. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SINCE THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PART "WENT" WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE CAR, THEY HAD A BADLY MADE PART. I HAVE A HISTORY OF DRIVING CARS UNTIL THEY ARE OVER 20 YEARS OLD AND CAN HIT 200 MILES ON A CAR AND I NEVER HAD A HARD JUST STOP WORKING AND DON'T THINK THIS SHOULD HAPPEN. I DO NOT WANT TO PAY SUBARU TO FIX THIS SINCE THEY KNOW THEIR PART GOES WRONG AND IS A SAFETY ISSUE. I AM NOT CONFIDENT THAT A NON-SUBARU MECHANIC WILL KNOW EXACTLY WHAT TO DO, THOUGH SINCE OUTSIDE MECHANICS WON'T BE FAMILIAR WITH THIS ISSUE.

IN 6 MONTHS, I GOT MORE THAN 10 TIMES OF LOW LEVEL ENGINE OIL LIGHT ON. FIRST TIME, IT WAS ON JAN. 2020, IT WAS 3,000 MILES FROM THE LAST OIL CHANGE. SO I CHANGED THE ENGINE OIL WITH NEW OIL. AFTER 2 MONTHS, I GOT LIGHT ON AGAIN. I REFILLED SOME OIL THEN GOT LIGHT ON AFTER ONE MONTH. I REFILLED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE LIGHT IS ON LATER. THERE IS DROPPED OIL ON THE FLOOR AT ALL. I COULDN'T FIND WHERE THE OIL IS GONE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. AAA WAS CONTACTED AND THE VEHICLE WAS JUMP STARTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED 4 TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COMPETITION SUBARU OF SMITHTOWN LOCATED AT 601 MIDDLE COUNTRY RD, ST JAMES, NY 11780 WHERE THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AND THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED OF AN UNKNOWN VOLUNTARY MANUFACTURER RECALL TO REPLACE THE EXHAUST AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER HOWEVER, THE PART WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE CONTACT WAS PROVIDED A LOANER VEHICLE. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED A WEEK LATER TO RETURN THE LOANER AND RETRIEVE HIS VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 13,270.

CAR DIES FREQUENTLY, KEEP REPLACING WITH NEW BATTERIES . MANY REPORTED LAWSUITS ONLINE FOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES IN SUBARU OUTBACK 2016. *TR

BATTERY RUNS OUT FOR NO APPARENT REASON, ESPECIALLY WHEN NOT DRIVEN FAR OR FREQUENTLY. FIRST BATTERY REPLACED BY DEALERSHIP BEFORE 2 YEARS, AFTER 3 INCIDENTS. SECOND BATTERY JUST BEGAN THE SAME PROBLEMS, IT IS ONLY 2 YEARS OLD. POSSIBLE THAT PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN MINIMAL BECAUSE PRE-COVID THE CAR WAS MOSTLY DRIVEN ON HIGHWAY, ALLOWING ALTERNATOR TO RE-CHARGE THE BATTERY NEARLY DAILY. BUT IF THE CAR SITS FOR 4 DAYS IT CAN RUN OUT OF BATTERY. THIS CAUSED A MISSED SURGERY APPOINTMENT. *TR

SPONTANEOUS CRACK DEVELOPED DOWN THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHILE DRIVING. NO OBVIOUS REASON SUCH AS IMPACT WITH STONE OR ROCK WAS INVOLVED- LARGE CRACK JUST SUDDENLY APPEARED. HAVE READ MANY REPORTS OF OTHERS HAVING SAME ISSUE, AND SUBARU HAS HAD AT LEAST 3 CLASS ACTION LAWSUITS FILED AGAINST THEM FOR THIS EXACT ISSUE. *TR

AFTER APPROX. TWO WEEKS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. REQUIRED A JUMP START. TOOK TO AUTO SHOP; BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR BOTH TESTED AS "GOOD". CAR STARTED NORMALLY DURING DAILY USE FOR SEVERAL DAYS. THEN, AFTER 7 DAYS OF INACTIVITY, BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. CAR STORED ON STREET PARKING. WEATHER TYPICAL FOR SPRING MONTHS IN WASHINGTON STATE (I.E. INTERMITTENT RAIN; TEMPS OF 40-60 DEGREES). ONLINE SEARCH REVEALS SEVERAL SITES WHERE NUMEROUS CUSTOMERS REPORT EXPERIENCING THE SAME FAULTY ELECTRICAL ISSUES. EXAMPLE: HTTPS://WWW.CARGURUS.COM/CARS/DISCUSSION-T58701_DS833514 OR HTTPS://WWW.TORQUENEWS.COM/1084/SUBARU-HIT-NEW-LAWSUIT-OVER-OUTBACK-WAGON-DEAD-BATTERY-ISSUE. *TR

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

THIS IS THE 2ND WINDOW THAT HAS HAD TO BE REPLACED IN 2 1/2 YEARS. IT APPEARED TO CRACK SPONTANEOUSLY. *TR

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR

THE BATTERY OF THE VEHICLE(SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 3.6 R) FAILED SEVERAL TIMES. THE BATTERY DRAINS VERY QUICKLY. ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CAR RAN FOR SEVERAL SHORT TRIPS, THE BATTERY WAS SUDDENLY DEAD. THE BATTERY HAS BEEN DEAD 10 TIMES FROM 2016 TO 2020. *TR

KEY IS CONSTANTLY STUCK IN THE IGNITION DUE TO A FAULTY SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 70-75 MPH IN THE RAIN, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO REMEMBER WHAT WAS DONE TO SLOW AND STOP THE VEHICLE. THE LOCAL DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

WHILE SITTING STILL AT A RED LIGHT WITH MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THE GEAR IN DRIVE, THE CAR WILL SUDDENLY LURCH FORWARD SEVERAL FEET. IT HAPPENS WITH SUCH FORCE THAT IT FEELS LIKE I WAS REAR-ENDED. THIS HAS HAPPENED OCCASIONALLY SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN JANUARY 2016. ALWAYS WHEN AT A FULL STOP ON FLAT AND SLOPED SURFACES. AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT ONLY HAPPENED WHEN THE AC WAS ON, BUT IT HAS HAPPENED WITH THE AC OFF. *TR

BATTERY DIED AFTER DRIVING 10 MILES AND PARKING FOR AN HOUR. COULDN'T MOVE SHIFT LEVER OR RELEASE ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE. SOMEONE FINALLY JUMPED THE CAR FOR ME Y AND I IMMEDIATELY BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY (BATTERY $151.19 AND JUMPER CABLES 26.99 AT PEPBOYS, DBPOWER JUMPSTARTER 74.59 AT AMAZON). 3 MONTHS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED AFTER BEING IN THE GARAGE OVERNIGHT. NO LIGHTS WERE LEFT ON OR ANY OBVIOUS SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL DRAIN. I COULD HAVE BEEN STRANDED SOMEWHERE. *TR

EXPERIENCED REPEATED DEAD BATTERY AFTER NOT USING THE CAR FOR A WEEK. FIRST I THOUGHT I WAS LEAVING LIGHTS ON OR A DOOR OPEN, SO I WOULD CALL ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE TO GET A JUMP, BUT THE PROBLEM STARTED GETTING WORSE. ON THE THIRD YEAR OF OWNERSHIP, AFTER ONE OR TWO DAYS OF NOT USING THE CAR, THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. GETTING LATE TO WORK AND MEETINGS JUST BECAME UNSUSTAINABLE. THE CAR IS ALWAYS GARAGE KEPT. I ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO TURN OFF EVERYTHING. I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A TOYOTA COROLLA FROM 1998 AND FOR THE 12 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP ONLY EXPERIENCED A DEAD BATTERY ONCE. *TR

THE STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM IN THE OUTBACK AFFECTS IPHONE MAPPING WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR'S USB SLOTS. THE MAPS GO HAYWIRE, ALWAYS POINTING THE WRONG DIRECCION, REROUTING CONSISTENTLY, RESULTING IN VERY DANGEROUS ROUTING. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN PRESENT SINCE DAY ONE. I HAD TO STOP CONNECTING THE IPHONE TO THE USB SLOTS WHEN DRIVING SO I CAN USE APPS LIKE GOOGLE MAPS AND APPLE MAPS. THIS IS A KNOW ISSUE WITH THE FIRST GENERATION OF STARLINK INFOTAINMENT. IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I CONNECT THE IPHONE TO THE OUTBACK AND NOT TO ANY OTHER MODEL. *TR

CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW IN MARCH 2016. BATTERY DIED AUGUST 12, 2017 DURING A TRIP FROM HOUSTON, TEXAS TO NEBRASKA WHILE SITTING/EATING AT A SONIC DRIVE-IN IN EDMOND, OKLAHOMA. MANUFACTURER REIMBURSED ME FOR REPLACEMENT BATTERY COST WHICH I PURCHASED FROM WALMART WHILE ON AN OUT-OF-TOWN TRIP. SINCE IT WAS SATURDAY AFTERNOON THE CLOSEST DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT WAS CLOSED. THE REPLACED BATTERY THEN DIED IN FEBRUARY 2020 AND I REPLACED IT MYSELF WITH AN AGM STYLE BATTERY. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT AN UNDISCLOSED SPEED, THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT IMPACT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS PREVIOUSLY REPAIRED AT PEACOCK SUBARU HILTON HEAD (111 DRIVERS WAY SUITE A, HARDEEVILLE, SC 29927) FOR A CRACKED WINDSHIELD. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE WINDSHIELD NEEDED TO BE REPLACED HOWEVER, NO ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE WINDSHIELD WAS NOT REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 53,688.

THE BATTERY ON OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK KEEPS DISCHARGING AND CAR WON'T START. IT IS IN THE GARAGE. DROVE IT TO THE STORE YESTERDAY. BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY 4 MONTHS AGO, HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS.

IRREGULAR BATTERY AND ELECTRIC ISSUES. WHEN CAR WAS 3-1/2 YEARS OLD WE DROVE 2 HIGHWAY HOURS FOR A MEETING. AFTER THE MEETING (WHILE STILL IN THE PARKING LOT) THE CAR WAS DEAD. WE JUMPED IT WERE DRIVING TOWARD A NEARBY SUBARU DEALERSHIP. THE CAR ACTED IRREGULAR ON THE HIGHWAY. IT HAD LIMITED POWER AND WAS LURCHING. WE LIMPED INTO THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP ABOUT 20 MILES AWAY. THEY COULDN'T FIND OR DIAGNOSE AN ISSUE. BUT, EVENTUALLY RE-CHARGED THE BATTERY AND IT HELD. AT AGE 4, THE CAR DIED IN MY DRIVEWAY. WE JUMPED IT AND THE CHARGE HELD. THE DRIVER SIDE CONTROLS CAN NO LONGER OPEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW.

SINCE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED, THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY DOES NOT REMAIN CHARGED IF THE CAR IS NOT STARTED FOR A PERIOD LONGER THAN TWO DAYS. THE VEHICLE IS ONLY FOUR YEARS OLD WITH 50,000 MILES AND THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES. THIS HAS CAUSED THE VEHICLE OWNER TO BE STRANDED WHILE AWAY FROM HOME, WHICH COULD HAVE LED TO UNSAFE CONDITIONS.

BATTERY FAILS REGULARLY CAUSING COMPLETE STOP. ELECTRIC SYSTEM TO WINDOWS, ESPECIALLY PASSENGER WINDOW, FAILS WITHOUT ANY KNOWN REASON

REPEATED DRAINED BATTERY FROM MULTIPLE SHORT DRIVES

ABOUT A YEAR AGO, MY OUTBACK OCCASIONALLY WOULD NOT START, ESPECIALLY AFTER I RETURNED FROM A TRIP. MY CAR'S BATTERY WAS DEAD. HOWEVER, MY WIFE'S CAR WOULD START RIGHT UP. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY INSTALLED A SOFTWARE UPDATE AND A NEW BATTERY. LESS THAN A YEAR LATER, THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN. I HAD NOT DRIVEN THE CAR IN ABOUT 5 DAYS BECAUSE OF ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH THE IGNITION (I COULD NOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE DEALER. AFTER THE DEALER INSPECTED THE CAR, I WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM AND THEY GAVE THE CAR A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. SOMETHING IS WRONG--IS IT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM? MY CAR WAS IN OUR DRIVEWAY.

PARKED ON A CITY STREET AND PRIVATE DRIVEWAY ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS, AND OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY, I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION; AND SOMETIMES THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION. DEALER REPAIRED AT A COST OF $535.38 ON FEB 28, 2020. SINCE THE REPAIR, I HAVE DRIVEN THE CAR VERY INFREQUENTLY. ON APRIL, 13, 2020, I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WOULD NOT TURN. *TR

MY VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON A HIGHWAY WHEN A PEBBLE STRUCK THE WINDSHIELD AND A CHIP WAS FORMED ON 8/26/2016. THIS CHIP WAS IMMEDIATELY REPAIRED. THIS WAS ONLY MONTHS FROM PURCHASING A BRAND NEW 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK; FACTORY TO DEALER. THEN, WHILE PARKED, IT WAS NOTED THAT THE CHIP FORMED A SPREADING CRACK ON 11/13/2017. AT THIS POINT, THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED WITH NEW, ORIGINAL SUBARU GLASS. *TR

BATTERY RUNS DOWN OFTEN. I'VE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES AND NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR EITHER. I KNOW IT WILL RUN DOWN DURING LOADING OR UNLOADING THAT LASTS MORE THAN 30 MINUTES, SO I MANAGE THAT SITUATION. BUT IT IS STARTING TO RUN DOWN MORE OFTEN WHILE PARKED. THIS HAS LEFT ME STRANDED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS.

INTERMITTENTLY UNABLE TO REMOVE KEYS FROM IGNITION, AS THOUGH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS NOT DETECTING THE CAR IS IN PARK. WORK-AROUND IS USUALLY TO PUMP BRAKES, MOVE FROM DRIVE BACK TO PARK, SOMETIMES RESTARTING IGNITION AND THEN TRYING AGAIN. SOMETIMES THIS REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. FOUND SERVICE BULLETIN #16-112-18R, BUT SUBARU IS NOT COVERING COSTS OF REPAIR IF VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY. BASED ON THE NUMBER OF VEHICLES IMPACTED, THIS SHOULD TRULY BE A RECALL.

MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE NEAR THE WIPER BLADE, WHILE DRIVING WITH A FACTORY WINDSHIELD. THE 6" CRACK FROM THE CORNER ALMOST IMMEDIATELY TURNED INTO A CRACK ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD - AGAIN NO TRAUMA OR ROCKS. I WAS DRIVING STRAIGHT ON A HIGHWAY WITH NO POTHOLES OR ANYTHING. I HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED AND IT HAS AGAIN SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED WITH NO TRAUMA (NO ROCK OR BUG IMPACT OR OTHER IMPACTS/DAMAGES) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE BY THE WIPER BLADE. I BELIEVE THAT THE SUBARU WINDSHIELD AS WELL AS THE DEFROST SYSTEM ARE DEFECTIVE. THIS WILL BE MY THIRD WINDSHIELD IN UNDER 3 MONTHS. OTHER SUBARU OUTBACK OWNERS HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT THIS AND SUBARU CONTINUES TO BLAME IT ON ROCKS. THE SECOND CRACK HAPPENED WHILE MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN THE DRIVEWAY!

TWICE SINCE NOVEMBER,'19 AND MOST RECENTLY ON 3/14/2020, WHEN STOPPED AT AN INTERSECTION, WITH FOOT ON BRAKE, THE ENGINE REVVED UP WILDLY. THEN, IN BOTH INCIDENTS I ATTEMPTED TO PUT CAR IN NEUTRAL. GEARSHIFT WOULD NOT MOVE. I HAD TO TURN ENGINE OFF. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPT I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE CAR. I THOUGHT THE FIRST INCIDENT WAS A FLUKE. BUT AFTER YESTERDAY'S (MARCH 14 '20) INCIDENT, IN WHICH I NARROWLY AVOIDED A CRASH, I BELIEVE SUBARU AND, IF NEED BE, THE GOVERNMENT, SHOULD ADDRESS THIS SAFETY ISSUE. PLEASE DO NOT EXCUSE THESE INCIDENTS WITH "YOUR FOOT WAS ON THE ACCELERATOR AND BRAKE AT THE SAME TIME. THIS NOT WHAT HAPPENED.

IN FEBRUARY 2019 I HAD TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD IN MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK BECAUSE OF A CRACK THAT STARTED FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE EDGE FROM A VERY TINY CHIP, AND PAID ABOUT $950 (OEM EQUIPMENT AND DUE TO THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM CALIBRATION REQUIRED). ON FEBRUARY 29, 2020, I DISCOVERED A CRACK IN THE NEW WINDSHIELD, IN A SIMILAR PLACE (PASSENGER SIDE, TINY CHIP AT THE EVERY EDGE (BLACK PART OF WINDSHIELD), THAT THEN EXTENDED HALF WAY ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. I COULD NOT REMEMBER ANYTHING HITTING THE WINDSHIELD TO CAUSE THE TINY CHIP, AND IT REALLY WAS TINY AND VERY SHALLOW. THE CAR HAD BEEN PARKED ALL DAY IN A SAFE, SECURE AREA. THE CRACK WAS NOT THERE IN THE MORNING WHEN I PARKED THE CAR, BUT WAS THERE BY THE END OF THE DAY. PHOTO ATTACHED. IT DOES NOT SEEM REASONABLE TO HAVE TO REPLACE A WINDSHIELD ANNUALLY! SUBARU HAS A PROBLEM WITH THEIR WINDSHIELDS!

I HAD PURCHASED MY CAR IN FEB 2016. WE HAD TO HAVE WINDSHIELD REPLACED 90 DAYS LATER. AND THEY TOLD ME " THE GLASS IS THINNER DUE TO EYE SIGHT. I'VE HAD WIND SHIELD REPLACED 2 OTHER TIMES SINCE THEN. WE WERE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY,AND IT WAS STRUCK BY ROCKS. I WENT TO SUBARU AND THEY STATED THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THEIR GLASS. AND EACH TIME IT WAS REPLACED. 1 AT THEIR COST AND 2 AT MIND. ALL OF THE PAPERS WORK I CAN GET FROM INS. COMPANY

WINDSHIELD CRACKED IN L SHAPE . ON DAY AFTER SNOW FALL. WHEN CLEARED THERE WAS THE CRACK

HOOD UNLATCHES UNEXPECTEDLY. THIS HAS PROBABLY OCCURED A HALF DOZED TIMES OR SO IN THE LAST YEAR. JUST YESTERDAY DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE IT UNLATCHED. FORTUNATELY THE SAFETY LATCH DIDN'T RELEASE, BUT THAT COULD CERTAINLY HAPPEN ESPECIALLY WITH THE WIND PRESSURE FROM DRIVING AT INTERSTATE SPEEDS.

DIFFICULTY TURNING THE CARS IGNITION INTO THE OFF POSITION TO REMOVE KEY. KEY STOCKS IN IGNITION AND CAR STAYS TURNED ON IN ACCESSORY MODE. OFTEN TAKES UP TO 6 TIMES RESTARTING AND STOPPING TO GET KEY TO RELEASE. DEALER CLAIMS IT IS THE COMPUTER RELAY THAT ISN'T RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN PUT INTO PARK. THIS IS WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED.... THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE APPROXIMATELY MAY OF 2019 TO CURRENT. AT FIRST IT WAS ONLY OCCASIONALLY BUT REACHED THE POINT WHERE IT HAPPENED 9 TIMES OUT OF 10.

I HAVE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK, WHICH I'VE OWNED SINCE NEW (09/15/2015). I'VE HAD TO REPLACE 8 WINDSHIELD SO FAR, SOMETIMES WITHIN 3 MONTHS, OR EVEN 2 DAYS APART. I DRIVE AROUND SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA (NOT STATISTICALLY HIGHER RISK FOR WINDSHIELD DAMAGE) THIS CONSTANT ISSUE WITH THE WINDSHIELD AFFECTS THE SAFETY OF THE CAR IN CASE OF FOREIGN OBJECT IMPACT OR SPONTANEOUS CRACKING, BECAUSE OF REDUCED VISIBILITY AND COMPROMISED STRUCTURAL/IMPACT PROTECTION

ONCE PARKING THE VEHICLE AND PLACING IT IN PARK, THE KEY STAYS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. THIS ISN'T RELATED TO THE STEERING WHEEL BEING LOCKED IN PLACE, THE KEY IS STUCK. SHIFTING IN/OUT OF PARK NEEDS TO HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES. LOOKING INTO THIS ONLINE, THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE WE ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR WITH OUR KIDS BECAUSE THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A FRACTURE WAS EVIDENT ON THE WINDSHIELD BY THE REAR VIEW MIRROR IN THE MIDDLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRACTURE WAS HORIZONTAL OF WHERE THE REARVIEW MIRROR WAS ATTACHED. MICHAEL'S SUBARU OF BELLEVUE (15150 SE EASTGATE WAY, BELLEVUE, WA 98007 (425) 641-2002) OFFERED FOR THE CONTACT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE TAKEN TO DEALER FOR A DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED NOR INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INSURANCE COMPANY WOULD BE MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE IF THE MANUFACTURER FAILED TO ASSIST IN HAVING THE VEHICLE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD DIRECTLY BEHIND THE REARVIEW MIRROR HORIZONTALLY AND VERTICALLY WITH NO VISIBLE SIGNS OF IMPACT, FOUND ONE GETTING INTO THE CAR WHICH WAS IN OUR GARAGE

MY OUTBACK HAS AROUND 42,000 MILES ON IT. I AM HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING IT IN PARK. SO FAR ABOUT HALF THE TIME I TURN THE CAR OFF I NEED TO SHIFT IT INTO REVERSE AND THEN JAM IT BACK INTO PARK IN ORDER FOR IT TO UNLOCK THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION.

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN IN PARK!! LEAVES ME STRANDED..HAVE TO KEEP TRYING VARIOUS METHODS TO TURN CAR OFF AND REMOVE KEY!! THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.. HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS AS WELL ON LINE.

THE CVT TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 79K MILES AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS CAUSING THE CAR TO VIOLENTLY STALL. WE BARELY AVOIDED HITTING THE CARS AROUND US TRYING TO PULL OVER. LUCKILY THERE WAS NO CAR TO REAR END US. WE WERE VERY LUCKY THE TRAFFIC WAS LIGHT. THESE TRANSMISSIONS ARE DEFECTIVE AND WHEN THEY FAIL, THEY FAIL IN A SPECTACULAR MANNER CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO VIOLENTLY JERK AND STALL, A TRAUMATIC EVENT EQUIVALENT TO JUMPING ON THE BREAKS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND WILL CAUSE PEOPLE TO DIE IN CRASHES. SUBARU NEEDS TO RECALL EVERY SINGLE CVT AND STOP PUTTING THEM IN NEW CARS. EXTENDING THE WARRANTY IS INSUFFICIENT.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. STARTING @ BOTTOM CENTER UP 8" THEN 6" TO RIGHT.

NUMEROUS WINDSHIELD CRACKS, SEEMS TO OCCUR SPONTANEOUSLY.

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK EVERYTIME AND I HAVE TO JAM IT INTO PARK TO GE IT OUT

WHEN PUTTING AUTO INTO PARK, KEY WILL NOT TURN FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW KEY TO COME OUT. HAVE TO RESTART CAR , SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS AND RETURN TO PARK UNTIL THE KEY WILL COME OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER EXACT YEAR AND MODEL VEHICLE WHICH HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND IT WAS REPAIRED ABOUT 1 1/2 YEARS AGO. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

MY 2016 OUTBACK WILL HAVE A "GHOST SLIDE" WHEN ON ICE. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN THE ROADS ARE ONLY PARTIALLY ICY. THE BACK END FEELS LIKE IT WILL SLIP OUT AND THE CAR WILL FEEL LIKE IT IS LOSING CONTROL. THIS IS MY 3RD SUBARU AND THE ONLY ONE WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH. I HAVE HAD IT INTO A SHOP (NOT A SUBARU DEALER) AND THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I CALLED SUBARU AND THEY TOLD ME I HAVE ICE BUILD UP! THAT IS NOT IT! I CALLED THEM AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T HAVE A RECALL NOTICE FOR MY ISSUE. THIS CAR IS GREAT FOR SAFETY AND DRIVING 95% OF THE TIME SO IT IS DANGEROUS TO HIT A PATCH OF ICE AND HAVE IT SLIDE. IT IS REALLY BAD WHEN THEY ROADS HAVE STARTED TO MELT AND YOU HAVE PARTIAL PAVEMENT AND PARTIAL ICE. I PUT THE DATE DOWN OF THE LAST OCCURRENCE BUT IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR 4 WINTERS.

MY CAR HAS 55,000 MILES. RECENTLY, I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I AM ABLE TO STOP THE ENGINE BUT I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN OFF ALL THE ELECTRONICS. I HAVE TO STOP AND START, BACK UP OR PULL FORWARD (WHICH I AM NOT ALWAYS ABLE TO DO) THE CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO COME OUT. MY DAUGHTER ALSO HAS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. SHE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT ABOUT THE SAME MILEAGE, HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED FOR $600.00 AND IS NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN 1 YEAR LATER. THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH THAT SUBARU PUT A TECHNICAL REPAIR BULLETIN OUT ON IT TSB #16-12-18R BUT HAS NOT DONE A RECALL.

I CANNOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION TO RELEASE THE KEY AFTER I'VE PUT THE CAR IN PARK THE FIRST TIME. IT CAN TAKE UP TO SEVERAL MINUTES OF ATTEMPTS TO TURN THE KEY TO VARIOUS POINT (LIGHTS ON/ACCESSORIES ON/ENGINE ON), DIFFERENT BRAKE POSITIONS, SHIFTING TO OTHER GEARS AND BACK TO PARK. THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE FREQUENTLY IN THE WINTER. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AT A TIME SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2016.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY WOULD NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. THE VEHICLE HAD TO BE TURNED ON AN OFF MULTIPLE TIMES IN ORDER FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO STUCKEY SUBARU (500 BROAD ST, HOLLIDAYSBURG, PA 16648, (814) 695-9862) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE GEAR SHIFT LINKAGE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 50,017. CONSUMER STATES THAT THEY TOOK VEHICLE TO A LOCAL REPAIRMAN. THE TUMBLE AND SWITCH WERE REPLACED. CONSUMER EXPERIENCED ISSUE AGAIN A WEEK LATER AND TOOK VEHICLE TO STUCKEY SUBARU (HOLLIDAYSBURG, PA). THEY REPLACED THE GEAR SHIFT LEVER. CONSUMER STATES THAT ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED. *DL

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING IT OFF (IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION). RESTARTING THE CAR AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN FREQUENTLY DOESN'T HELP.

FRONT RIGHT CV JOINT STARTED MAKING A CLICKING SOUND THAT BECAME EXTREMELY BAD AFTER ONE MONTH. WE WERE TOLD TO REPLACE IMMEDIATELY DUE TO SAFETY HAZARD. HAD TO REPLACE THE CV AXEL COSTING OVER $600. GOT IT BACK FROM THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP, JUST TO BE TOLD THE LEFT ONE IS NOW GOING OUT AND WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED AS WELL.

I HAVE NOTICED A SMALL CRACK IN THE LOWER CORNER OF THE WINDSHIELD AND I HAVE NOT BEEN WITH A ROCK OR ANY OBJECTS. I PURCHASED THE SUV THE FEBRUARY OF 2019 AND IT APPEARED TO HAVE A NEW DEALERSHIP WINDSHIELD. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS ONLINE INCLUDING LAWSUITS REGARDING SUBARU WINDSHIELDS THAT SPONTANEOUSLY CRACK. THE WINDSHIELDS FROM SUBARU SEEM TO BE VERY FRAGILE AND I HAVE CONCERNS OF A DEFECT.

DRIVING TO WORK ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE WINDSHIELD JUST POPPED AND CRACKED. LITTLE SHARDS OF GLASS FLEW ONTO THE DASHBOARD. HAPPENED UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER.

JUNE 2019 - WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY APPARENT IMPACT FROM ANYTHING, DRIVING BY MYSELF. REPLACED WINDSHIELD, AND WITHIN TWO WEEKS, THE SAME THING HAPPENED - WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY APPARENT IMPACT FROM ANYTHING. VEHICLE WAS MOVING IN BOTH INSTANCES. OCCURRED ON HIGHWAY DRIVING. IN BOTH INSTANCES, CRACK STARTED SMALL AND WENT HORIZONTALLY ACROSS THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSHIELD IMPAIRING MY VISION AND CAUSING A SAFETY ISSUE.

REPEATED AND UNPREDICTABLE BATTERY FAILURE WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE, I.E. DOME LIGHTS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES NOT POWERED "ON"., DOORS OR REAR CARGO HATCH NOT OPEN. DEALER ANALYSIS OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOUND NO ISSUES HOWEVER REPLACED BATTERY. LAST OCCURRENCE 10/19/2019 IN THE HOME GARAGE.FOR RELIABILITY IT WAS NECESSARY TO PURCHASE A PORTABLE BOOSTER CHARGER COSTING $100.00. THERE HAS BEEN 8 SUCH OCCURRENCES SINCE THE PURCHASE (NEW) IN 2016. PLEASE ADVISE.

NOTICING WHEN I PARK MY CAR THE KEY WON'T RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN CAR LEVER IS SET IN "P" POSITION. AS I PUSH IN AND TURN THE KEY FROM START TO LOCK THE KEY WILL STAY ACC POSITION WON'T GO INTO LOCK.

ON 10/10/2019 WE NOTICED A LONG CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD OF THIS VEHICLE FOR NO CAUSE. WE JUST GOT INTO THE CAR AND NOTICED. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED SINCE WE BOUGHT OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK IN JUNE 2016. THE FIRST TWO TIMES (LAST ONE REPAIRED IN MARCH 2019) THE CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD AS NUMEROUS PEOPLE HAVE REPORTED. INSURANCE WILL NOT PAY IN NEW MEXICO, SO WE HAVE TO KEEP REPLACING AT OVER $300 A TIME. THIS IS CLEARLY A FAULT IN THE DESIGN OR QUALITY OF THE GLASS. WE RESPECTFULLY REQUEST THAT YOU INVESTIGATE THIS FOR US AND MANY OF THE OWNERS OF THESE VEHICLES. IT IS UNACCEPTABLE TO HAVE TO KEEP PAYING THE FULL PRICE FOR NEW WINDSHIELDS. SUBARU NEEDS TO ADMIT A FAULT IN DESIGN AND PROVIDE CONSUMERS WITH WINDSHIELDS AT NO COST - PREFERABLY DESIGN ONE THAT WILL NOT CRACK. THIS IS THE FIRST VEHICLE IN 35 YEARS THAT HAS EVER CRACKED. THANK YOU FOR INVESTIGATING THIS ISSUE.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY OBJECT IMPACT. CRACK STARTED AT THE BOTTOM PASSENGER SIDE. SAME LOCATION AS LISTED IN A CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR 2015 AND EARLY MODEL 2016 CARS. VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS AT ABOUT 35MPH WHEN I HEARD THE NOISE. I DID NOT NOTICE THE CRACK UNTIL LATER IN THE DAY, AS IT WAS VERY LOW ON THE WINDSCREEN AND WAS NOT VISIBLE FROM THE DRIVERS POSITION IN THE CAR. THE CRACK HAS SINCE SPREAD ACROSS AND UP THE WINDSCREEN. SUBARU OF AMERICA HAS DENIED MY REQUEST FOR A REPAIR AND I WILL BE DOING SO AT MY OWN EXPENSE LATER TODAY.

I RECEIVED A SMALL CHIP FROM A ROCK THAT THEN SPREAD TO ABOUT AN 8 INCH CRACK. IT'S BEEN THAT WAY WITH NO CHANGE FOR MONTHS. THEN THIS MORNING WE DROPPED TO 26 DEGREES AND WHEN I TURNED ON THE DEFROSTER FOR THE WINDSHIELD THE CRACK SHOT ACROSS THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. I HADN'T EVEN MOVED THE CAR YET. I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SAFELITE THAT THIS WINDSHIELD WAS FAULTY AND SUBARU SHOULD REPLACE IT UNDER WARRANTY BUT THE SUBARU HERE IN MISSOULA, MT IS REFUSING TO DO SO. I SEE THAT CA HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND THEY SUED SUBARU. DO I HAVE TO DO THAT TOO TO GET THEM TO HELP ME?

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.

ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.

THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).

I REGULARLY CANNOT REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHILE IN PARK. THE IGNITION DOES NOT SEEM TO RECOGNIZE THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK, SO I HAVE TO RESTART CAR, SHIFT DO DRIVE, RESHIFT TO PARK AND TRY TO REMOVE KEY MULTIPLE TIMES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING CONSISTENTLY AND IS WORST WHEN PARKED ON A HILL.

DRIVING AT AROUND 40 MILES PER HOUR AND SUDDENLY LOST CONTROL OF THE STEERING WHEEL. THE STEERING WHEEL BECAME VERY LOOSE AND UNRESPONSIVE. IT WAS VERY DANGEROUS. TOOK TO DEALERSHIP RIGHT AWAY AND THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT ANYTHING.

ABOUT A WEEK A GO I NOTICED A CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I CAN NOT ATTRIBUTE IT TO A ROCK OUR OTHER ROAD DEBRIS. CLOSE INSPECTION SHOWS A VERY SMALL CHIP DIRECTLY UNDER THE WIPER BLADE, WHICH WOULD PROTECT THE WINDSHIELD FROM A ROCK ETC. THE CRACK EXTENDS VERTICALLY DOWN UNDER THE PLASTIC TRIM AND UP ALMOST TO THE WIPER BLADE SWEEP LIMIT. THIS IS THE SECOND WINDSHIELD IN MY VEHICLE. IN 2017 I THOUGHT I GET HIT BY A ROCK. A LARGE CHIP APPEARED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE AND A CRACK IMMEDIATELY APPEARED. I PAID FOR A REPAIR BY THE DEALER. IT WAS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY OR INSURANCE. I AM NOW WONDERING IF THE FIRST WINDSHIELD WAS HIT BY A ROCK OR NOT. REGARDLESS, I CANT BELIEVE I WILL BE ON THIRD WINDSHIELD IN A VEHICLE I HAVE NOT YET HAD TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS.

WHILE STATIONARY, MY DAUGHTER ATTEMPTED TO EXIT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. DISCOVERED THAT THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CHILD SAFETY LOCK SWITCH ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE DOOR WAS ENGAGED. TRIED TO DISENGAGE THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK; HOWEVER, THE SWITCH WAS SEIZED IN THE ENGAGED POSITION. CANNOT OPEN THE DOOR FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE. TOOK IT TO THE ONLY SUBARU DEALER IN HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA. THOUGH THE VEHICLE HAD LESS THAN 36,000 MILES AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, THEY SAID IT WAS A CORROSION ISSUE CAUSED BY LACK OF USE; THEREFORE, IT WAS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. WE HAVE NEVER USED THE CHILD SAFETY LOCK.

KEY INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PARKED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED BY SUBARU. THIS CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. WHY HAS A RECALL NOT BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS?

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.

CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE IS OFF AND CAN NOT GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION. I THEN HAVE TO START CAR AND MOVE VEHICLE AND HOPES THAT WHEN I STOP CAR AGAIN I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. THIS IS A SAFEY ISSUE AS I CAN NOT LEAVE CAR WITH KEY IN IGNITION IN PUBLIC PLACE. IF I DO AT THE HOUSE, THEN THE CAR THEN DRAINS THE BATTERY AND CAR DIES.CAR IS ONLY 3 YEAR OLD!!! I'M NOT TO HAPPY WITH THIS. NEEDS TO BE FIX, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!!!! BUT I DON'T SEE ONE YET! I READ OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 4DR 2.5I - VEHICLE BEGAN MAKING LOUD NOISE WHEN DRIVING IN THE HIGHWAY. NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE OF VEHICLE. TOOK TO SUBARU DEALER IN CHANDLER AZ AND DEALER CHANGED RIGHT-REAR WHEEL HUB BEARING. VEHICLE ONLY HAS 67 K MILES.

WOBBLING AND SHAKING OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION (WHEN ACCELERATING). HAPPENS ON STREET AND ON HIGHWAY. SERVICE ADVISOR RECOMMENDED TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT. PLEASE SEE ATTACHED EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFER FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS A RESULT OF PREVIOUS COMPLAINTS.

ON MY WAY TO WORK I HEARD A LOUD POP! LIKE A ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD. NEVER SAW A PIT OR ANY EVIDENCE. PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE THERE WAS A CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF PASSENGER SIDE UP THE WINDOW. NOW THE CRACK HAS SPREAD OUT LIKE NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN.

I'VE ONLY RECENTLY LEARNED OF THE SPONTANEOUS WINDSHIELD CRACKING ISSUE THAT IS IN LITIGATION. THIS HAPPENED TO ME. I WAS STOPPED, WAITING AT A LIGHT NEAR THE INTERSECTION OF WASHINGTON AND THE ENTRANCE TO I-70 IN DENVER. SUDDENLY, THE WINDSHIELD LOUDLY POPPED AND A LARGE CRACK APPEARED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WHICH HAS SINCE PROGRESSED IN MANY DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS. I SPOKE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. I'VE NOT YET HAD IT REPLACED AS I'D LEARNED OF THIS LAWSUIT, BUT NO DEFINITIVE PROGRESS HAS BEEN MADE, I'M REPORTING IT HERE. I DO NOT HAVE A PICTURE, BUT WILL UPDATE THIS POST LATER, IF POSSIBLE.

DEAD BATTERY AT 38,000 MILES. NO INDICATOR LIGHTS OF ANY EXISTING PROBLEM. LEFT STRANDED AND OUT $150 FOR NEW BATTERY. SAW MANY FORUMS RELATED TO THIS SAME PROBLEM. SUBARU OWES IT TO THE CAR OWNERS TO ADMIT AND FIX AND NO CHARGE THIS PROBLEM. DROVE AT LUNCH TIME AND WHEN I WAS RETURNING BACK TO WORK IT WOULD NOT START. CAR WAS PARKED IN PARKING LOT. NOTHING LEFT ON. WHEN TURNING IGNITION ON THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ALL CAME ON AS WELL AS RADIO AND WINDOWS WORKED UP AND DOWN BUT NO START. HAD CO-WORKER COME AND JUMP START AND IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY.

INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WHERE THE KEY COULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION MAKING IT UNSAFE TO LEAVE THE CAR IN A PUBLIC AREA. (THE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). REQUIRED REPLACEMENT OF THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THE REPAIR NOTES INDICATED THERE IS A RELATED TSB, SO THE DEFECT IS KNOWN, BUT NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PUT IN PARK. FREEZES UP. WON'T ALLOW POWER LIFT GATE TO OPEN EITHER. SEEMS TO BE RELATED TO TSB 16 112 18R, WHICH IN PRACTICE SEEMS DANGEROUS, AS HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION EVEN FOR A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME WITH KIDS IS RISKY. THIS NEEDS TO BE A SAFETY RECALL.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN PUT INTO PARK AND CAN'T TAKE KEY OUT OF IGNITION AFTER TURNING CAR OFF.

WHEN I STOP MY 2016 OUTBACK AFTER DRIVING IT MY KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. IT DOES THIS INTERMITTENTLY AND IS ACTING LIKE I AM NOT PUTTING THE CAR ALL THE WAY IN PARK. I AM FORCED TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AT TIMES AND THE CAR WILL BE VERY EASY TO STEAL. AFTER READING THE SUBARU FORUMS IT APPEARS TO BE THE SHIFTER LINKAGE FAILING AND NOT GOING INTO PARK ALL THE WAY. SOME DEALERS STARTED TO REPLACE THE KEY SWITCH AT FIRST THEN THEY REALIZED IT WAS THE SHIFTER LINKAGE ASSEMBLY ITSELF. IT SEEMS TO NEED REPLACING AND CAN'T BE ADJUSTED. SUBARU KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AS I JUST TALKED TO SUBARU OF AMERICA TO SEE IF THEY HAVE RECALLED IT YET.

DRIVER IS UNABLE TO TURN KEY BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. CAR (SUBARU OUTBACK 2016) WAS PLACED IN PARK PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. DRIVER MUST FORCEFULLY MOVE STICK TO PARKED POSITION, FIRMLY PUSH KEY IN, AND TURN SWIFTLY TO REMOVE KEY. DRIVER MAY HAVE TO ATTEMPT THIS MANEUVER FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING KEY. FAULTY COMPONENT IS UNKNOWN BUT IS OFTEN THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH BASED ON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R. AT TIME OF WRITING THIS COMPLAINT, THE DRIVER HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 2 WEEKS.

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. VEHICLE IS PUT INTO PARK, KEY IS TURNED OFF, KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY AND STOPS AT THE ACCESSORY POINT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST MONTH, SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. MOVE THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH FROM PARK INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK UNTIL THE KEY RELEASES.

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.

THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT BATTERY FOR THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN INSUFFICIENT TO MEET THE DEMANDS THAT THE "BELLS AND WHISTLES" PUT ON THE RESERVE POWER IN THE BATTERY. AS SUCH, THIS PUTS THE DRIVER AT RISK THAT THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE. EITHER STANDARDS SHOULD BE ESTABLISHED FOR RESERVE BATTERY CAPACITY, BASED ON ELECTRICAL DEMAND, OR BETTER INDICATION PROVIDED ON AVAILABLE CHARGE. I.E., MUCH LIKE THAT PROVIDED BY OTHER DEVICES THAT HAVE AN INDICATION OF REMAINING BATTERY CHARGE. THIS VULNERABILITY WAS SHARED WITH SUBARU SOON AFTER I PURCHASED THE CAR, NEW, AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BOTH SUBARU AND THEIR DEALERSHIP ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. I SHOULD HAVE UPGRADED THE ORIGINAL BATTERY ON MY OWN FROM THE START, BUT ONLY BECAME AWARE OF THE DEFICIENCY OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT UNTIL RECENTLY. THE FACT THAT SUBARU WOULD ALLOW ANY OPERATOR TO DRIVE ONE OF THEIR CARS UNDER THESE CIRCUMSTANCES IS REPREHENSIBLE, LET ALONE SOMEONE THAT THEY SAY IS A "VALUED AND APPRECIATED CUSTOMER."

I CANNOT REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION OR OPEN THE REAR HATCH WHEN IN PARK. THE NEUTRAL SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEM DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. THE FRONT CONSOLE SHOWS THE CAR IN PARK AND THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. HOWEVER THE KEY IS STUCK. I HAVE TO MOVE THE SELECTOR IN AND OUT OF PARK USING RANDOM PATTERNS BEFORE THE SENSOR/SWITCH RECOGNIZES THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. STARTED AT 40K MILES. MY SON FELT THAT HE HAD TO RESTART THE CAR TO CLEAR THE ISSUE AND DRAINED THE BATTERY, LEAVING HIM STRANDED.

I HAVING PROBLEM GETTING MY KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION FROM MY SUBURU OUTBACK 2016, ALMOST EVERYTIME I STOPPED AN ENGINE THIS PROBLEM OCCUR.

A CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD SUDDENLY APPEARED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY WITH NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND. THE CRACK WAS 8" LONG AND STARTED NEAR THE BOTTOM CORNER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. AFTER PARKING IT OVERNIGHT, THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS HALF THE WINDSHIELD. WHEN WE HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED, SAFELITE COULD NOT FIND ANY EVIDENCE OF A CAUSE, NO CHIPS OR EVIDENCE OF A ROCK HITTING IT. EVEN WITH THE EXTENDED "GOLD" WARRANTY, SUBARU WOULD NOT COVER THE REPLACEMENT.

PROBLEM IN SHIFTER GATE SO THAT KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING IN PARK AND TURNING OFF THE ENGINE.

PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY DRAINS AND DOES NOT ALLOW PROPER FUNCTIONING OF REAR HATCH. REPLACED BATTERY AFTER 2 YEARS. HAVING PROBLEM WITH NEW BATTER AFTER ONLY 2 MONTHS. VEHICLE HAS PARASITIC DRAIN THAT REDUCES THE BATTERY CHARGE OVER TIME.

CAR STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. IT WAS TRULY FRIGHTENING BECAUSE THE BABY WAS IN THE CAR AND IT WAS DURING MORNING COMMUTE RUSH HOURS WHEN EVERYONE IS RUSHING. THE CAR IS RELATIVELY NEW WITH 35K MILES AND AM THE ONLY OWNER OF THE VEHICLE. WAS AT AN INTERSECTION AND WAITING FOR MY TURN TO MAKE A LEFT. THE CAR WAS IN 'DRIVE' AND I HAD MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE GREEN LEFT TURN ARROW CAME, I PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND BACK TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I MOVED FROM 'DRIVE' TO 'PARK' AND TURNED OFF THE CAR ENGINE. THEN I RESTARTED THE CAR AND MOVED FROM 'PARK' TO 'DRIVE' AND PRESSED THE GAS PEDAL AGAIN AND THE CAR DID NOT MOVE. I BEGAN PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL HEAVY TRYING TO AT LEAST MAYBE MOVE TO SAFETY AND ALL OF SUDDEN THE CAR FELT VERY SLUGGISH BUT IT MOVED. I UNDERSTAND THERE IS AN EXTENDED WARRANTY OFFERED BY SUBARU REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION, BUT WHAT HAPPENED TO ME WAS DANGEROUS TO MYSELF, MY FAMILY AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. THIS REQUIRES FURTHER INVESTIGATION AS TO NOT PUT ANY PEOPLE'S LIFE AT UNNECESSARY RISKS.

SHIFTER ASSEMBLY PROBLEM. LESS THAN 50000 MILES ON CAR AND CAR WON'T SHIFT INTO PARK! READING OTHER COMPLAINTS OF SAME PROBLEM SEEMS LIKE IT'S A DEFAULT ASSEMBLY! *TR

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND WON'T COME OUT. EVEN AFTER TRYING TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH ISN'T LOCKED. THIS HAPPENS WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF.

CAR WON'T START THE NEXT MORNING EVEN AFTER CHARGING FOR 30 MIN VIA CONTINUOUS DRIVING/PARASITIC DRAIN ON BATTERY

REPEATED PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY TESTS FINE BY AUTOZONE AND DEALER, BUT CAR WILL DIE OVER A FEW HOURS OR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES EVEN 10 MINUTES. APPARENTLY ISSUE WITH MAKE/MODEL AS MANY COMPLAINTS.

WHILE TRYING TO COME OUT OF DRIVE WAY ONTO THE STREET, I TRIED TO STOP BY PRESSING THE BRAKES, BUT THE VEHICLE HAS ACCELERATED

COMING TO A STOP AT CURBSIDE. APPLYING LIGHT PRESSURE TO THE BRAKE. VEHICLE STARTED TO PULL FORWARD. WAS ABLE TO STOP BY INCREASING PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE. ENGINE SPEED INCREASED QUICKLY AFTER I SHIFTED TO PARK. ENGINE SOUND WAS LOUD ENOUGH TO BE NOTICED BY PEOPLE IN THE AREA. I RESPONDED BY TURNING OFF THE ENGINE. CRUISE CONTROL WAS ENABLED AT THE TIME.

THIS IS THE FOURTH WINDSHIELD TO CRACK ON US IN AN OUTBACK. THE FIRST TWO WINDSHIELDS CRACKED IN A 2015 OUTBACK. SUBARU HAD TO BUY BACK THAT CAR DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WINDSHIELD THAT FLOODED THE CAR. THEY GAVE US 2016 OUTBACK IN ITS PLACE. GUESS WHAT, THE 2016 OUTBACK WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE. THE FIRST CRACK WAS SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER ITS PURCHASE AND OCCURRED SPONTANEOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED A PEBBLE HIT BECAUSE THEY COULD SEE A CHIP. THIS IS DESPITE THE FACT THAT A PEBBLE NEVER TOUCHED THE CAR. OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. SUBARU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. WELL, THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED AGAIN. THEY ARE ALSO CLAIMING IT IS DUE TO A PEBBLE AND ARE REFUSING TO REPLACE IT THIS TIME. THEY ARE CLAIMING IT IS NOT IN THE LOCATION THAT THEIR MEMO STATES IS PART OF THE EXTENDED WINDOW WARRANTY. THERE ARE MAJOR ISSUES WITH THE WINDSHIELDS ON THE 2015 AND 2016 OUTBACKS. FOUR CRACKED WINDSHIELDS FROM WHAT THEY CLAIM ARE "PEBBLES" IS WRONG. ESPECIALLY WHEN TWO OF THE CRACKS HAPPENED WHEN THE CAR WASN'T EVEN MOVING AND WAS PARKED. SUBARU KNOWS THERE ARE PROBLEMS AND THEY ONLY EXTENDED THE WINDSHIELD WARRANTY IF THE CRACK IS THROUGH THE AREA OF THE BASE OF THE WINDOW. BUT THEY ARE WELL AWARE THAT THE CRACKS ARE HAPPENING IN OTHER PLACES AND ARE REFUSING TO RECTIFY THE SITUATION. THERE ARE SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUES NOT BEING ADDRESSED. AND THE SOLUTION IS TO GET THE COSTUMER TO JUST CONTINUE TO REPLACE THE WINDSHIELDS AT THEIR OWN COST.

WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.

CAR WAS STATIONARY AND HAD NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN SEVERAL HOURS AND THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE TOP CENTER DOWN ABOUT SIX INCHES ACROSS BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER FIELD OF VIEW. THERE WAS NO PREVIOUS DAMAGE, MAJOR OR MINOR, FROM THE POINT WHERE THE CRACK APPEARED TO START FROM.

PLEASE FORWARD THIS MESSAGE ONTO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN AT SUBARU OF AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE. 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 11/19/15 UPDATE BULLETIN NUMBER: 12-192-15R; NHTSA ID:10093903; REVISED: 03/06/17 ISSUE: SPONTANEOUS CRACKED WINDSHIELD HELLO, I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF MENTIONED VEHICLE, 2016 OUTBACK 3.6R EQUIPPED WITH THE ALL-WEATHER PACKAGE AND EYESIGHT. ON FEBRUARY 28, 2019 A SMALL VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH APPEARED JUST IN FRONT OF THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT WINDSHIELD. WITH INSPECTION THE CRACK ACTUALLY STARTED AT THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. SINCE THEN THE CRACKS HAVE INCREASED DAILY IN LENGTH AND IN NUMBER. ONE RUNNING CRACK HAS NOW SPREAD ACROSS THE ENTIRE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE. ANOTHER VISIBLE RUNNING CRACK ONE INCH IN LENGTH NOW HEADING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF FRONT WINDSHIELD. IT TOO ORIGINATES FROM THE LOWER PORTION OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD IN THE DEICER/DEFROSTER AREA. UNDER VERY CLOSE PHOTO INSPECTION AT THE JUNCTIONS OF THESE MERGING CRACKS CHIPPING IS OCCURRING CAUSING ADDITIONAL SPIDERING CRACKS. I DID CONTACT MY SUBARU DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT ON MARCH 5, 2019.A SALESPERSON FILLED OUT AND I SIGNED AN INFORMATION FORM FOR REPORTING THIS ISSUE TO SUBARU AMERICA. I WAS NOT OFFERED AND DID NOT RECEIVE A COPY. HAVE NOT HEARD BACK FROM THEM YET. THIS ISSUE AND REPAIR MENTIONED IN TSB ID: 12-192-15R NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. I HAVE ATTACHED DETAILED PHOTOS AND MC-10093903-2280.PDF DOCUMENT. THIS SHOULD EXPEDITE THE REPLACEMENT PROCESS.

FEBRUARY 28, 2019. CRACKING FRONT WINDSHIELD AT THE DE-ICER / DEFROSTER AREA. THIS WAS NOT FROM ROADWAY ROCK CHIPPING. VEHICLE WAS ON DRIVEWAY WARMING UP AND DEFROSTING. AFTER, NOW FIVE DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD COMPLETELY ACROSS THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.

WHEN STOPPED, UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION (UNABLE TO MOVE KEY FROM ACC POSITION TO LOCK POSITION SUCH THAT KEY REMAINS IN IGNITION). SAFETY CONCERN: UNACCOMPANIED CHILD COULD START VEHICLE. UNLOCKED VEHICLE COULD BE STOLEN WITH KEYS IN IGNITION.

I HAD AN ACCIDENT @ 5PM-ENTERING A BUSY ROAD FROM A DRIVEWAY-HIT THE SIDE DOOR OF A CAR RACING LEFTTORIGHT IN FRONT OF ME. MY FAULT OF COURSE. I HEARD NO BEEP WARNING FROM THE SO-CALLED COLLISION MITIGATION SYSEM (?), NOR DID I FEEL ANY BRAKING. SUBSEQUENTLY I TESTED THIS FEATURE IN MY DRIVEWAY WHERE I SLOWLY DROVE THE CAR FORWARD TOWARD MY LARGE GARAGE, I WOULD HAVE HIT THE GARAGE-NO BEEP-NO BRAKING. THEN, IN A SNOW STORM, I HAD TO BRAKE SOASTO NOT HIT A LARGE TRUCK SKIDDING IN FRONT OF ME. I MISSED HITTING HIM BY INCHES. AGAIN, I HEARD NO BEEP AND FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER TESTED THIS FEATURE ON MY CAR BY LETTING IT GO TOWARDS BRUSHES IN A CARWASH, I HEARD BEEP WARNING, BUT AGAIN FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER SAID SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. AND SO-I CONCLUDE THAT WHENEVER I HEAR ANY KIND OF WARNING BEEO, I SHOULD MANUALLY AND QUICKLY 'HIT THE BRAKES', NO MATTER WHAT. AFTER ALL, I HAVE TO KEEP MY EYES ON THE ROAD FOR GOD'S SAKE. I AM NOT HAPPY.

PROBLEM: 360 CCA BATTERIES INSTALLED IN NEW CARS ARE NOT ENOUGH AND THEY CAUSE PROBLEMS. MY FIRST INDICATION WAS A YEAR AGO WHEN I WENT TO THE STORE, WAS IN THERE 10-15 MINUTES, AND WHEN I CAME OUT THE CAR DID NOT START. A FRIEND CAME 2 HOURS LATER TO JUMP IT BUT TRIED IT FIRST AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP. SECOND PROBLEM WAS ON A TRIP TO DC IN NOVEMBER '18. NOR'EASTER CAME THROUGH AND WE GOT STUCK ON THE INTERSTATE IN THE MOUNTAINS FOR A FEW HOURS. CAR WAS STOPPED, NOT RUNNING. WENT TO GET DINNER THEN TO CAR TO GO ON AGAIN. WOULD NOT START. WERE STRANDED FOR 3 MORE HOURS, AS THE WEATHER AND MOUNTAIN DRIVE MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET HELP. WE WERE EVENTUALLY ABLE TO FIND SOMEONE TO JUMP IT. OVER NEXT FEW MONTHS, ODD THINGS HAPPENED LIKE THE RADIO NOT WORKING SPORATICALLY, SLOW STARTS, AND THE KEY NOT COMING OUT OF IGNITION OCCASIONALLY. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, THEY RECOMMEND A $853 NEW SHIFT MECHANISM, BUT IN THE DISCUSSION HE HAPPENED TO MENTION THE 360CCA BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH FOR THE CAR. MY SUSPICIONS TELL ME TO GET A NEW BATTERY AND SEE HOW THINGS GO. GOT BATTERY- 640CCA, A WEEK AGO AND NO PROBLEMS AT ALL NOW. IT'S NOT RIGHT THAT THE DEALERS KNOW ABOUT THE BATTERY NOT BEING ENOUGH, AND WHEN YOU BRING THE CAR IN THEY TRY TO GET YOU TO PAY FOR LARGE DOLLAR FIX-IT'S AND AVOID TALKING ABOUT THE BATTERY ISSUE. I DON'T KNOW HOW MANY YEARS AND MAKES OF SUBARUS HAVE THESE, BUT PROB AT LEAST A FEW YEARS. THEY NEED TO RECALL AND PUT IN BETTER BATTERY, AT LEAST A $500CCA. I HAVE READ CAR GURU BLOG THAT MAKES IT OBVIOUS THAT AT LEAST HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE HAVE STORIES OF BEING STRANDED. FOR A LONG TIME OR IN A BAD PLACE. MY BATTERY COST ME $173 AND THEY SHOULD REFUND THAT TO ME.

KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IT TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT COME OUT. DRIVER HAS TO SLAM THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO GET IT TO RELEASE MULTIPLE TIMES. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM BASED ON INTERNET RESEARCH

THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DOES NOT ENGAGE OFTEN CAUSING A JERKING MOTION OF THE CAR WHICH IS UNDIAGNOSED FOR THE PAST 3 YEARS. SUBARU EXTENDED THE TRANSMISSION WARRANTY FOR ONE YEAR. I WANT IT FIXED. MY WIFE AND I HAVE COMPLAINED SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW (2016 MODEL)

ON TWO OCCASIONS WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 65-75 MPH WITH NO WARNING THE GAS PEDAL STOPPED RESPONDING TO INPUTS. WHILE MANEUVERING THE VEHICLE TO THE SHOULDER OF THE ROAD THROUGH TRAFFIC THE ENGINE SHUTOFF. ON ONE OCCASION I WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND ON THE SECOND OCCASION IT WOULD NOT RESTART. AFTER TOWING THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP THE VEHICLE STARTED UP AND RAN WITH NO ISSUES. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS WERE EVER DISPLAYED. THE BATTERY WAS WORKING FINE AND FULLY CHARGED. THE CAR IS IN PERFECT MECHANICAL SHAPE WITH ALL REGULAR SERVICE PERFORMED. THE GAS REMAINING AT TIME OF INCIDENT WAS APPROXIMATELY 1/4 TANK FULL. THE CAUSE IS UNKNOWN TO ME.

OUR WINDSHIELD HAS HAD 3 CHIPS/CRACKS IN IT SINCE NEW. THE FIRST ONE WAS A CHIP THAT WAS REPAIRED BY SAFELIGHT. THE SECOND WAS A CRACK/CHIP WHERE THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED BY SAFELIGHT. BOTH OF THESE HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS ON-HIGHWAY. BOTH WERE IN DIFFERENT SPOTS, BUT WERE LOCATED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. THE THIRD ONE WAS A LARGE CRACK ON THE DRIVER SIDE WE NOTICED YESTERDAY (12/26/18) WITH NO APPARENT CHIP ASSOCIATED. WE'RE NOT SURE IF THIS HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS MOVING OR STATIONARY. DATES FOR THE INITIAL CRACKS ARE ESTIMATES, BUT FIRST ONE WE ESTIMATE TO BE 8/2017. THE SECOND ONE WHERE THE WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED IS ESTIMATED MAY 2018. WE NOTICED OTHERS WERE HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES AFTER DOING A SEARCH 12/26/18. IT ALSO APPEARS THAT SUBARU HAD ACKNOWLEDGED THERE WAS A PROBLEM WITH SOME 2015 AND 2016 MODELS, BUT OUR VEHICLE VIN DID NOT SHOW UP WHEN DOING A SEARCH.

ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED AUTOMATICALLY DUE TO SWITCH ASSEMBLY MODULE FAILURE WHILE CAR WAS IN MOTION AT BETWEEN 25-30MPH. CAR STOPPED INSTANTLY, PASSENGERS THROWN FORWARD, ALL-POWER DIED. CARS IN REAR STOPPED SHORT. FAILED TO RESTART AFTER INITIAL ATTEMPTS (10 MIN). WEATHER CLEAR, ABOUT 45 DEGREES F. 2.5 YEAR OLD CAR, ~40,000 MILES.

I WAS DRIVING IN THE CITY AND IT JUST TURNED OFF ON ME. VERY QUICKLY TOO. NO TIME TO PULL OVER. JUST DIED IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. I WAS NOT USING THE EYE SIGHT AND IT WAS A CLEAR DAY. BUT THE DASH SAID EYE SIGHT OFF. I TRIED TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON BUT IT SAID I HAVE TO PUT IN PARK FIRST. SO I PUT IN PARK AND IT STARTED BACK UP NO PROBLEM AND WORKED ALL THE WAY HOME. THIS IS DANGEROUS. I COULD OF BEEN REAR ENDED.

PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG IS EXPANDING OUT. DASH IS SPLITTING. CONCERN FOR PREMATURE ACTIVATION.

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY REGARDLESS OF PUSHING, TURNING, PUTTING PARKING BREAK ON, PARKING BREAK OFF. HAVE BEEN STUCK WITH ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE FOUR TIMES THIS BLACK FRIDAY WEEKEND. SO WRONG. READ SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS CONCERNING THIS ISSUE AND STEERING WHEEL ISSUES. SUBARU SHOULD RECALL THE 2016 OUTBACK PREZ 2.5I AND PREMIUM 2.5I. DUDS FOR IGNITIONS. SAFETY ISSUE WHILE TRAVELING AND SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR CAN'T BE LEFT UNATTENDED. HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MONDAY MORNING TO SEE IF I CAN GET AN APPOINTMENT TO GET IT FIXED SO I CAN MAKE IT HOME SAFELY AND GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I GET THERE. LOVE SCOOBY BUT THIS SERIOUSLY STINKS.

DRIVING 75 MPH ON FREEWAY WITH A LITTLE OVER QUARTER TANK OF GAS ON GAS GAUGE AND SYSTEM INFO ON CAR SAID 110 MILES LEFT TILL EMPTY TANK. CAR SLOWED VERY QUICKLY AND ENGINE DIED. PULLED OVER ON FREEWAY IN THE MIDDLE OF DESERT. TOW TRUCK SERVICE TOOK 3 1/2 HOURS TO ARRIVE. TOW TRUCK DRIVER SAID CAR RAN OUT OF GAS AND PUT 5 GALLONS AND THEN CAR STARTED.

I WAS TRAVELING ON I49 AT ~60 MPH, IN LIGHT RAIN, AND NON FREEZING TEMPERATURE. I WAS ON A STRAIGHT STRETCH OF ROAD WITH CRUISE CONTROL OFF. THE TIRES WERE IN GOOD CONDITION. I WAS APPROACHING BRUSH CREEK BRIDGE AND HOLDING THE STEERING WHEEL STEADY AND STRAIGHT. THE CAR STARTED TO DRIFT LEFT AND STEERING WAS NOT RESPONDING. THE REAR OF THE CAR STARTED TO GET AHEAD OF THE FRONT AND THE CAR WAS GOING SIDEWAYS. AS SOON AS THE CAR STARED TO DRIFT, I TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE GAS AND TRIED TO REGAIN STEERING. WHEN SLIDING SIDEWAYS ON THE BRIDGE, I CUT THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE DIRECTION THE CAR WAS SLIDING. AT THAT TIME, THE CAR REGAINED SOME STEERING CAPABILITY AND OVERSTEERED TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BRIDGE, TRAVELING SIDEWAYS AGAINST A CEMENT BARRIER UNTIL STOPPED. THE AIR BAGS NEVER DEPLOYED. THERE WAS EXTENSIVE FRONT END DAMAGE AMOUNTING IN ~$10000 IN REPAIRS. THE CAR STARTED AND WAS DRIVEN HOME AFTER THE INCIDENT. ALTHOUGH IT WAS RAINING, THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT THE ACCIDENT WAS RELATED TO ANY TRACTION LOSS AND THE TRACTION LIGHT WAS NOT ACTIVATED. I THINK THE EXISTING STEERING RECALL MAY HAVE IMPACTED MORE VECHICLES THAN PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT. I SUSPECT THAT THE STEERING IS DEFECTIVE AND THE EXISTING STERLING RECALL DID NOT CATCH ALL OF THE AFFECTED VEHICLES. I ALSO FOUND IT SURPRISING THAT NO AIR BAGS DEPLOYS, EVEN THOUGH THIS WAS A HIGH IMPACT CRASH. I HAD BRUISING IN MY STERNUM, KNEES, ELBOWS AND ALONG THE SEAT BELT PATH.

WINDSHIELD. WINDSHIELD HAS SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ON THE PASSENGER EDGE TWICE. NOV 2017 I WAS TOLD THE SMALLEST PEBBLES CAUSED THE PIN HOLE WHICH MADE MY WINDSHIELD CRACK. NOVEMBER 2018 WE EXPERIENCED LOW 30 TEMPS AND WHEN THE TEMPS RAISED BACK TO 50S MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED AGAIN. IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT. ONCE AGAIN DEALERSHIP IS CLAIMING A SMALL PEBBLE HAS CAUSED THIS DAMAGE. I CAN'T BUY THAT A PEBBLE WOULD HIT THE EXACT SAME SPOT AND CAUSE THE WINDSHIELD TO CRACK THE EXACT SAME WAY TWICE. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE AND IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG OUTBACKS OF THIS YEAR.

BRAKES ARE SOFT AND HARDLY WORK WHEN CAR IS FIRST STARTED IN COLD WEATHER. ONCE CAR IS WARMED UP, BRAKES WORK NORMALLY. IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME WHEN THE TEMPERATURE IS LESS THAN 40 DEGREES.

THE ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE APPEARS TO BE FAULTY. THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT TIRE LOCKED UP FOR NO APPARENT REASON. THE ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE WAS NOT TURNED ON. WHEN MY VEHICLE MOVED IS CREATED A LOUD METALIC SOUND.

THERE WAS A PROBLEM REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THERE WAS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO REASON DURING WARM SUMMER DAY. I HAVE SEEN OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON LINE. IT IS IN THE SAME LEFT CORNER AREA AND STARTS AS A SMALL CIRCULAR INDENTATION AND GROWS WITHIN HOURS. NOTHING HIT OR CAME INTO CONTACT WITH WINDSHIELD

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH ON A LOCAL ROADWAY, THE EYESIGHT PRE-COLLISION BRAKE ASSIST SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO COMPLETELY STOP. THE BRAKES RELEASED SHORTLY AFTER THE FAILURE. THE DEALER (SUBARU OF DAYTON, 995 MIAMISBURG CENTERVILLE RD, WASHINGTON TOWNSHIP, OH 45459, 1-(888) 431-9557) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE SERVICE CENTER MANAGER INDICATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS ESCALATED TO THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS WAITING FOR A FOLLOW-UP RESPONSE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,000. *TT CONSUMER STATED CAR WAS TAKEN INTO THE DEALER AND SO INCIDENT SINCE. UPDATED 12/20/18*JB

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6 LIMITED HAS 64,000 MILES ON IT. RECENTLY I NOTICED AN UNFAMILIAR NOISE. WHEN I BROUGHT IT TO A MECHANIC HE SAID IT NEEDED A WHEEL BEARING AND THE WHEEL WAS ABOUT TO FALL OFF. HE REPLACED THE WHEEL BEARING/HUB BUT SAID THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE AND SUGGESTED I BRING IT TO A SUBARU DEALER FOR FURTHER EVALUATION. WHEN I BROUGHT IT TO THE SUBARU DEALER THEY SAID IT NEED TWO ADDITIONAL WHEEL BEARINGS. THEY SAID IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND GAVE ME A LOANER CAR UNTIL IT CAN BE FIXED. AS MY CAR IS STILL WAITING TO BE FIXED I DON'T HAVE ALL THE DOCUMENTATION YET. BUT I STILL DO WORRY WHEN AND IF THAT 4TH BEARING/HUB WILL FAIL.

I HAD A MAJOR ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE ON JUNE 24. WE WERE DRIVING BACK FROM OUR FAMILY VACATION WHEN I WAS PASSING A SEMI TRUCK ON A TWO LANE ROAD THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST POWER TO THE WHEELS AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. AS I STEPPED ON THE GAS THE ENGINE REVVED UP BUT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT ACCELERATING. I THOUGHT IT SLIPPED OUT OF GEAR. I PUT IT IN NEUTRAL THEN BACK INTO DRIVE AND STILL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. I PUT MY FLASHERS ON TO ALERT THE TRUCK THAT I WAS HAVING ISSUES. I PULLED ONTO THE SHOULDER AND HE PASSED ME. I NOTICED THE TACHOMETER READ BETWEEN THE 3 AND 4 MARK WHEN I PUT MY FOOT ON THE ACCELERATOR TRYING TO SPEED UP. HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE DID NOT SPEED UP AT ALL. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD ONTO A TURNOUT AREA. THE PASSENGER IN THE FRONT SEAT ASKED IF ANY WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. NO LIGHTS OF ANY SORT CAME ON. THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE WAS IN THE NORMAL OPERATING RANGE. AFTER THE CAR STOPPED I TURNED OFF THE IGNITION AND OPENED MY DOOR AND NOTICED FLAMES COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR. I IMMEDIATELY INSTRUCTED THE OTHER THREE (3) PASSENGERS TO IMMEDIATELY EXIT THE CAR BECAUSE OF THE FLAMES. LUCKILY WE WERE ABLE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE AND GET A SAFE DISTANCE AWAY TO CALL 911 FOR ASSISTANCE. UNFORTUNATELY THE FIRE CONTINUED TO BURN AND ENGULFED THE CAR. BLACK SMOKE STARTED TO APPEAR. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT SHOWED UP AND EXTINGUISHED THE FIRE. WE WATCHED HELPLESSLY WHILE OUR CAR AND POSSESSIONS WENT UP IN SMOKE. WE CONTACTED SUBARU AND FILED A COMPLIANT. THEY TOOK THEIR TIME AND EVENTUALLY SENT THEIR QA TEAM TO INSPECT WHAT WAS LEFT OF THE VEHICLE. THEY FINALLY SENT US AN EMAIL STATING THEY COULD NOT FIND THE ROOT CAUSE OF THE FIRE BECAUSE THE FIRE DAMAGE WAS TOO INTENSE. WE BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE NEW JUST TWO YEARS PRIOR AND IT ONLY HAD ABOUT 30K MILES AND HAD ALL THE FACTORY RECOMMENDED SERVICES AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY.

THE 3.6R ENGINE IMMEDIATELY AFTER COLD START DOES ABOUT 5 CYCLING SURGES OF ABOUT 300 RPM WITH TRANSMISSION IN FORWARD OR REVERSE WITH BRAKES APPLIED. THIS EVENT DOES NOT HAPPEN UNLESS STARTING WHEN ENGINE IS COLD AND TRANSMISSION IS PUT IN GEAR WITH BRAKES APPLIED. THE SURGE DOES NOT HAPPEN AFTER A SHORT WARM UP. THIS COULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE WITH A TIGHT PARKING SITUATION OR WHEN DEPARTING A GARAGE.

MY WIFE WAS DRIVING CAR ON HIGHWAY AND WAS WAITING IN TRAFFIC TO TAKE A RAMP EXIT. OUR SUBARU OUTBACK'S ENGINE SUDDENLY STOPPED. CAR HAD TO BE PUT IN PARK GEAR AND THEN RESTARTED BEFORE IT WAS DRIVE-ABLE. THIS SUDDEN STOPPING OF CAR IS HIGHLY WORRISOME.

3 MONTHS AFTER GETTING MY OUTBACK THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED AT THE BASE AND WENT UP AND OVER. I REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD AT A COST OF $500. MY WINDSHIELD RECENTLY CRACKED AGAIN AND WHEN I TAKE TO THEM AT THE SERVICE COUNTER THEY SAID IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BUY A WINDSHIELD EVERY YEAR FOR A BRAND NEW CAR. FOR A CAR THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE 5+ STAR SAFETY RATED I SHOULD HAVE AN INTACT WINDSHIELD. THE CRACKS ALSO APPEARED OVERNIGHT. THEY WERE NOT THERE WHEN I PARKED THE CAR, BUT WHEN I GOT IN IT THE NEXT MORNING. ALSO - NO CHIPPING OR STARING WAS FOUND WHERE THE CRACK STARED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD.

I HAD EXPERIENCED A SHUDDER, POP, REVVING RPMS OF THE VEHICLES BEFORE A SUDDEN POWER LOSS AT HIGHWAY SPEED (65MPH). I WAS UNABLE TO ACCELERATE AND HAD LIMITED STEERING TO GET OFF THE HIGHWAY SAFELY. THE VEHICLE HAD STALLED BY THE TIME I WAS ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I WAS THEN UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. A TOWING SERVICE WAS CALLED TO BRING IT TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. WITHIN AN HOUR TIME PERIOD THE VEHICLE RAPIDLY LOST ELECTRICAL POWER AND HAZARD LIGHTS WERE NO LONGER FUNCTIONAL. THIS UNFORTUNATELY WAS LATE AT NIGHTTIME, MAKING THE VISIBILITY OF THE VEHICLE VERY MINIMAL. THE VEHICLE WAS EVALUATED AT A LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND REPORTED THAT THERE WAS A SOFTWARE PROBLEM WITH THE CHARGING SYSTEMS OF THE CAR. THE SYSTEM WAS UPDATED, BUT THE DEALERSHIP COULD NOT PROVIDE AN EXPLANATION FOR THE REVVING ENGINE, SHUDDERING, POWER LOSS AND STALLING THAT OCCURRED PRIOR TO THE INABILITY TO RESTART THE VEHICLE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.

AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN ON A CITY STREET, I TRIED TO ACCELERATE BUT THERE WAS A LONG HESITATION FOLLOWED BY A SURGE OF POWER. THIS HAPPENED ON 2 OCCASIONS. I HAD THE SALES MAN DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND ALSO THE SERVICE MANAGER DROVE IT FOR 1 WEEK - NEITHER TIMES DID THIS ISSUE REPEAT ITSELF. THE DEALERSHIP DID NOT HAVE ANY KNOWLEDGE OF THIS TYPE OF PROBLEM. I REFUSED TO DRIVE THIS VEHICLE AND RETURNED IT TO THE SUBARU DEALER IN BERLIN, CT.

HAD COMPLAINED ABOUT CAR JOLTING AT STOP LIGHTS ON OCCASION IN GEAR AT FULL STOP AT LIGHTS. NO DIAGNOSIS. CHANGED GAS THINKING IT MIGHT HELP. SEEMED TO. NO DIAGNOSIS. THEN CAR JUMPED HARD BACKWARDS IN REVERSE COMING OUT OF PARKING SPACE. COULD HAVE HIT CAR BEHIND HAD WE BEEN PARALLEL PARKED INSTEAD OF ANGLE. TOOK CAR IN AND DEALER REPLACED CVT AT NO CHARGE BUT WARNED US IT WOULD CONTINUE TO JUMP IN REVERSE WITH THE NEW CVT AND IT DOES JUST AS IT DID WHEN WE TOOK IT IN. NOW WE HAVE TO REMEMBER TO GRIND DOWN ON THE BRAKE PEDAL WHEN GOING INTO REVERSE. THAT ISN'T RIGHT OR SAFE.

THE KEYS BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN ATTEMPTING TO PARK THE CAR. UNABLE TO REMOVE. ALSO UNABLE TO TURN OFF THE CAR FULLY. SOMETIMES REPARKING MULTIPLE TIMES HELPS.

DROVE ON FREEWAY ABOUT 65 MPH PASSED BY THE BIG TRUCK SUDDENLY EXPLODED SUNROOF. NOBODY IN FRONT OF ME AND IT JUST HAPPENED OUT OF NOWHERE.

RADIO FREEZES OFTEN, WEEK AGO DEALER PUT NEW FIRMWARE BUT LOOKS LIKE IT DID NOT HELP. ANOTHER PROBLEM I HAVE FOR ABOUT 10 DAYS (SINCE MY LAST VISIT TO SUBARU SERVICE) MY IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK AND I CAN'T TAKE IT OUT FOR GOOD 15-20 SECONDS. AFTER PLAYING WITH IT RELEASES AND I'M ABLE TO TAKI IT OUT.

SPONTANEOUS CRACKS ON WINDSHIELD AND THEIR EXTENSION DURING HOT, SUNNY DAY. FOR THE SAFETY ISSUE, IT HAD TO BE REPLACED.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT ANY REASON.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHOUT REASON.

DRIVING ON A 4 LANE HIGHWAY IN A RURAL AREA AT 7:30 IN THE MORNING, NO OTHER TRAFFIC AROUND. I HEARD A SOUND LIKE A SMALL STICK BEING BROKEN. IT GOT MY ATTENTION AND I WONDERED WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT. ABOUT 10 MILES LATER I NOTICED A CRACK COMING UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDSHIELD RIGHT IN FRONT OF MY FACE. IT DEVELOPED INTO 2 CIRCLE CRACKS IN MY VIEWING AREA. DEALER SAID IT WAS A OLD CHIPPED PLACE OR A NEW CHIP THAT CAUSES IT. NEVER NOTICE A CHIP BEFORE OR AFTER I HEARD THE SNAP.

WHILE DRIVING SLOWLY ON STREET OR PULLING INTO INTERSECTION AFTER LIGHT TURNED GREEN, CAR HAS APPARENTLY SLIPPED INTO NEUTRAL FIVE TIMES IN THE LAST TWO YEARS. NO ABILITY TO ACCELERATE UNTIL PUT CAR INTO PARK AND THEN INTO DRIVE. NO WARNING LIGHTS OR ALARMS. DEALER UNABLE TO DUPLICATE AND SAYS WITHOUT DUPLICATING PROBLEM, CANNOT FIX. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE SINCE CAN EASILY BE REAR ENDED OR HIT ON SIDE IN INTERSECTION. I AM NOW AFRAID TO DRIVE THIS CAR SINCE DO NOT KNOW WHEN PROBLEM WILL REOCCUR.

THE IGNITION KEY DOES NOT RELEASE WHE THE IGNITION IS TURNED OFF AND THE CAR IS PUT IN PARK.

WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE IN 16 MONTHS. THE 1ST CRACK HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY WITH NO ONE AROUND ME- HEARD A POP AND HAD AN L SHAPED CRACK APPEARED ON MY WINDHIELD. THE WINDSHIELD WAS NOT STRUCK BY ANYTHING. AFTER MUCH NEGOTIATION WITH THE DEALER (THE CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY WITH ABOUT 10,000 MILES), SUBURU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. THE SECOND CRACK APPEARED WHILE STATIONARY IN MY DRIVEWAY AFTER TURNING ON THE VEHICLE. I LITERALLY WATCHED AS AN L SHAPED CRACK APPEARED ON THE WINDSHIELD. I HAVE NOT REPAIRED THAT YET. I DID NOT REPAIR IT BECAUSE IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN IN A FEW MONTHS. THE CRACK HAS SINCE SPIDERED THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD. TO DATE, I HAVE RECEIVED NO NOTIFICATION FROM SUBURU. I AM NOT LOOKING FORWARD TO ANOTHER FIGHT WITH SUBURU.

DEAD BATTERY. THREE TIMES MY CAR HAS FAILED TO START AND THE BATTERY WHEN TESTED WITH A LOAD TESTER SAYS,"BAD BATTERY". AFTER BOOSTING AND RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES IT TESTS "OK" AND THE ALTERNATOR AND STARTER TEST OK. UPON THE 3RD TIME IT MALFUNCTION I HAD IT TAKEN TO THE //DEALER ON A ROLL DECK. THE DEALER CAN NOT FIND THE PROBLEM AND JUST CHARGES THE BATTERY AND SAYS IT IS OK. "IT IS NOT OK WHEN IT HAPPENS @ 25,00 KM. AND 32,000 KM AND 40,000 KM. THE BATTERY HAS LESS CRANKING AMPS THEN MY RIDING LAWNMOWER, BUT THE DEALER SAYS THAT IS WHAT SUBARU RECOMMENDS . WHAT CAN I DO TO GET THEM TO TREAT THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOMS? EACH TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS LUCKY TO BE CLOSE TO HELP.

KEY I UNABLE TO BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION INTERMITTENTLY AT AN INCREASING RATE. DRIVER HAS TO REPEATEDLY PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE AND THEN PARK TO TRY TO REMEDY THE ISSUE TO BE ABLE TO TURN OFF THE CAR AND REMOVE THE KEY.

THE KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN I PARK THE CAR AND TRY TO TAKE IT OFF. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND THE KEY DOESN'T WANT TO COME OUT. THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME SEVERAL TIMES. IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T REALIZE THAT IT'S IN PARK ALREADY. NOT SURE IF THE PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER ASSY. THIS POSES A SAFETY PROBLEM IF ONE IS AT THE WRONG PLACE AT THE WRONG TIME AND FORCED TO LEAVE KEY IN IGNITION.

WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED. I HAVE DASHCAM FOOTAGE SHOWING BEFORE AND AFTER THE FORMATION OF THE CRACK. THERE WAS NO IMPACT OF ANY OBJECT TO CAUSE THE CRACK OVER ANY PERIOD OF TIME.

WHILE DRIVING SOUTHBOUND AT ABOUT 55 MPH ON A SMOOTH LEVEL DIVIDED HIGHWAY ON A CLEAR DAY WITH A TEMPERATURE OF ABOUT 45 DEGREES MY MOON ROOF EXPLODED. BOTH THE GLASS PORTION AND THE INNER SLIDING COVER WERE CLOSED. THERE WAS A LOUD "WHAM," AND THEN A RATTLING SOUND THAT TURNED OUT TO BE THE SHARDS OF CLASS BOUNCING AROUND ON THE INNER SLIDING COVER. NO DEBRIS OTHER THAN THE GLASS WAS INSIDE THE ROOF, AND WE CHECKED 100 YARDS BACK IN THE DIRECTION FROM WHICH WE CAME AND FOUND NOTHING THAT COULD HAVE HIT US FROM ABOVE. LUCKILY, THERE WAS A SUBARU DEALER NEARBY, AND WE WERE ABLE TO CONTINUE OUR VACATION WITH A LOANER WHILE THEY FIXED THE MOON ROOF. WE TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO REPLACE A LOST "SMART KEY" AT THE SAME TIME, AND THAT IS REFLECTED ON THE ATTACHED BILL BUT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS EVENT. WE WERE UNINJURED, BUT HAD THE INNER SLIDING COVER BEEN OPEN, WE WOULD HAVE BEEN SHOWERED WITH BROKEN GLASS WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED.

I HAVE LEARNED BECAUSE MY WIFES CAR IS ALSO A 2016 SUBARU THAT SOY BASED MATERIALS HAVE BEEN USED IN WIRING AND HOSES OF MY OUTBACK CREATING A DANGEROUS SITUATION SINCE RODENTS AND SQUIRRELS ARE ATTRACTED TO THIS PRODUCT AND WILL CHEW ON THEM THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT PROVIDED A REPLACEMENT TO THE SOY PRODUCTS SO THIS IS A LONG TERM SAFETY CONCERN THAT NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. WE HAVE ALREADY INCURRED DANGEROUS AND COSTLY DAMAGE TO ONE SUBARU AND ARE CONCERNED IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN TO ONE OR BOTH OF OUR CARS.

TAKATA RECALL (UNKNOWN WHETHER MY SPECIFIC VEHICLE AIRBAGS ARE SUBJECT TO RECALL) PURCHASED AS NEW CAR.

BATTERY DIES IF CAR IS NOT DRIVEN WEEKLY. STEERING COLUMN REPLACED TWICE AND STEERING RACK ONCE.

I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WITH THE CAR STOPPED AND THE CAR WAS IN "PARK" POSITION. THE CAR REMAINED IN THE "ACCESSORY" IGNITION POSITION (ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES REMAINED ON) BECAUSE THE KEY WOULD NOT GO TO THE IGNITION LOCK POSITION. I WAS THEREFORE UNABLE TO LOCK THE CAR STEERING OR LEAVE THE VEHICLE UNATTENDED UNLESS I HAD A SEPARATE SET OF KEYS WITH ME. EVEN WITH ANOTHER SET OF KEYS, THE CAR'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM REMAINED ON AND THE CAR WOULD EASILY BE STOLEN OR DRIVEN BY AN UNAUTHORIZED USER. I TOOK THE CAR TO A SUBARU DEALER AND THEY REPAIRED THE CAR UNDER WARRANTY AFTER A FEW DAYS WAITING FOR REPLACEMENT PARTS. THE DEALER TOLD ME THIS IS A KNOWN DEFECT WITH SUBARU OF AMERICA.

THE CENTER SEATBELT IN THE BACK SEAT ( THE ONE THAT COMES DOWN FROM THE ROOF OF THE VEHICLE) HAS FRAYED AND BECOME TORN THREE TIMES IN 20 MONTHS. THE FIRST REPAIR WAS DONE DEC 21, 2016, SECOND WAS OCT 27,2017 AND THE MOST RECENT WAS FEB 13,2018. THE BELT SYSTEM HAS BEEN REPORTED AS REPLACED ALL THREE TIMES, BUT IT KEEPS OCCURRING IN THE SAME PLACE AND MANNER EACH TIME. I AM CONTINUALLY TOLD THAT THIS IS FROM OUTSIDE FORCES, BUT HAVE INVESTIGATED AND DON'T BELIEVE THIS TO BE TRUE AT ALL, MY CHILDREN RIDE BACK THERE, TOYS AND OTHER OBJECTS ARE NOT BROUGHT INTO THE VEHICLE AND THE BOOSTER THAT IS OCCASIONALLY USED THERE HAS BEEN RULED OUT BY SUBARU.. I WAS TOLD THAT SINCE 2013 14 BELTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED BY THEY GENERAL PARTS MANAGER IN MY DISTRICT, AND THREE OF THEM HAVE BEEN MY CAR. I HAVE LEASED THIS WITH THE INTENTION TO OWN, BUT NOW FEEL THAT IF THIS HAS OCCURRED 3 TIMES IN 20 MONTHS THIS CAR IS NOT SAFE FOR MY CHILDREN. SUBARU ISN'T BEING MUCH HELP, I NEED ANSWERS SO THAT I CAN GUARANTEE MY CHILDREN ARE SAFELY SECURED IN THIS CAR.

FRONT WINDOWS KEEP GIVING TROUBLE. I HAVE GONE TO DEALER SEVERAL TIMES FOR THIS ISSUE WITHOUT ANY LONG TERM RESOLUTION. FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW AND DRIVER WINDOW ROLLS UP AND DOWN SEVERAL TIMES WHEN YOU TRY TO CLOSE IT. THIS OCCURS WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY AS WELL AS DRIVING. THIS IS VERY INCONVENIENT IN IN-CLIMATE WEATHER AND CAN POSE A SAFETY ISSUE.

SUDDEN 6" CRACK IN WINDSHIELD ORIGINATING ON THE LOWER EDGE UNDER THE WIPERS. I HAD DRIVEN THE CAR HOME FOR LUNCH AND BACK TO WORK AT 1:15PM AND THE CRACK WAS NOT THERE. WHEN I GOT OFF WORK AT 4PM THE CRACK WAS THERE. DROVE CAR HOME AND PUT IT IN THE GARAGE. THE NEXT MORNING AT 7AM THE CRACK WAS APPROXIMATELY 12" LONG RUNNING AT A DIAGONAL TOWARDS THE OUTER EDGE OF THE WINDSHIELD.

WHEN DRIVING ON SNOW AND ICE WITH GEAR IN THE BACK OR REAR SEAR PASSENGERS THE CAR CAN BECOME VERY UNSTABLE. THE BACKEND WILL START CHANGING DIRECTIONS ON ITS OWN, THIS IS REFERRED TO AS GHOST WALKING BY SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE POSTING ON THE INTERNET. FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND IT IS A DESIGN PROBLEM THAT ALLOWS THE CAMBER ADJUSTMENT TO CHANGE WHEN WEIGHT IS ADDED TO THE REAR OF THE CAR. IT IS A REAL PROBLEM AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO GET KILLED.

KEY STICKS IN THE IGNITION AND WILL NOT COME OUT. THE FAILING PARK POSITION SWITCH DID NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE TURNED TO THE FULLY OFF POSITION FOR KEY REMOVAL.

DRIVING ON HIGHWAY IN 18F WEATHER WITH LIGHT SNOW AND PREVIOUSLY PLOWED ROAD. NO ISSUES DRIVING AROUND 50-60 MPH UNTIL PASSING UNDER A HIGHWAY OVERPASS. THE CAR TURNED INTO THE OTHER LANE AND THEN CORRECTED ITSELF. THIS KEPT ON HAPPENING AT ALMOST EVERY OVERPASS WE WENT UNDER. SLOWING DOWN REDUCED THE DEGREE OF VEERING BUT WE KEPT EXPERIENCING THE WOBBLE EFFECT AS WE CROSSED UNDER EACH OVERPASS. ALMOST LIKE THE TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM WAS "SLOW IN RESPONDING". TOOK TO THE DEALER BUT THEY REPORTED THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE. DEALER SUGGESTED I BRING THE CAR IN AND HAVE A TECH RIDE WITH ME NEXT TIME THERE IS A SIMILAR WEATHER PATTERN.

MOON ROOF GLASS SHATTERED WITHOUT APPARENT CAUSE, WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY AT SPEED LIMIT IN GOOD WEATHER AND IN AN AREA WITHOUT TRAFFIC, OVERPASSES, TREES OR OTHER KNOWN HAZARDS TO GLASS. THOUGHT AT FIRST THAT I WAS MYSTERIOUSLY HIT BY ANOTHER VEHICLE FROM NOWHERE, BASED ON THE LOUD NOISE WHEN THE GLASS BROKE. FORTUNATELY, I WAS NOT IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, WHERE I MAY HAVE TAKEN EVASIVE ACTION TO AVOID ANOTHER APPARENT COLLISION. DEALER SAID THE NEEDED REPAIRS WERE NOT COVERED, SO I HAD THE WORK COMPLETED BY A LOCAL GLASS SHOP FOR $325 (RECEIPT IN MY FILES).

VEHICLE STARTING BECOMES SLOWER FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK AND THEN IT WILL NOT START AT ALL. I THEN GOT A BOOST FROM A SERVICE GARAGE IN THE FIRST INSTANCE AND DROVE THE CAR TO MY SELLING DEALER 40 KM. AWAY. THEY DID ALL THE TESTING, BATTERY, ALTERNATOR AND IT DID NOT SHOW ANY CODES. THEY ONLY DID DIAGNOSTIC WORK AND NO ACTUAL REPAIRS AND GAVE ME THE PRINT OUT JUST IN CASE IT HAPPENED WHILE WE WERE ON OUR 5 MONTH VACATION IN FLORIDA. THIS HAPPENED AT 25,000 KM ON THE ODOMETER IN SEPTEMBER OF 2017. IT IS NOW JANUARY 15, 2018 AND I AM IN FLORIDA. THE CAR HAS 33,000 KM. ON IT THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED, WITH A SLOW TO TURN OVER FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK AND THEN FAILURE TO START. I TESTED THE BATTERY WITH A LOAD TESTER AND IT TESTED AS "BAD" ON THE GUAGE. WE THEN BOOSTED IT TO START AND TESTED THE VOLTAGE FROM THE ALTERNATOR WHICH WAS 14 VOLTS AND THE BATTERY TESTED 12 VOLTS. AFTER A FEW MINUTES OF RUN TIME WE TURNED IT OFF AND IT FAILED TO START AGAIN. AFTER BOOSTING AGAIN I DROVE IT LESS THAN 1 MILE TO MY HOUSE AND LET IT RUN WHILE I CALLED THE ROADSIDE ASSIST AND GOT THE PHONE NUMBER OF THE NEAREST SUBARU DEALER, WHO INFORMED ME THAT ROADSIDE ASSIST WOULD BRING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY WOULD TEST IT. IF THE BATTERY WAS BAD THEN THEY WOULD REPLACE IT. AFTER 15 MINUTES I RETURNED TO MY CAR IN THE DRIVEWAY AND TURNED IT OFF. I THEN ATTEMPTED TO START IT SEVERAL TIMES AND EVERY TIME IT STARTED CORRECTLY. MY WIFE THEN DROVE IT 15 KM. TO GET GROCERIES AND IT RESTARTED EVERY TIME THAT SHE LEFT THE STORES. I THEN DID ANOTHER LOAD TEST ON THE BATTERY AND THE NEEDLE NEVER WAVERED FROM THE GREEN AREA OF THE GUAGE. IT LEAVES YOU WONDERING WHEN YOU WILL BE STRANDED IN THE WILDERNESS OR THE SIDE OF AN INTERSTATE HIGHWAY. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP THAT YOU MAY OFFER.

SUDDEN ACCELERATION: THIS SERIOUS UNSAFE CONDITION RELATES TO MY 2016 OUTBACK LIMITED 2.5L PURCHASED ON 2/29/2016 IN TAMPA FLORIDA. THE EXACT SAME UNSAFE CONDITION HAS HAPPENED TWICE; FIRST IN OCTOBER 2016 AT APPROXIMATELY 8800 MILES, AND SECOND IN DECEMBER 2017 AT APPROXIMATELY 24,000 MILES. DESCRIPTION OF INCIDENT: WHILE SLOWLY PULLING INTO A PARKING SPACE AND GENTLY APPLYING THE BRAKE, THE CAR'S ENGINE RPM ACCELERATED AND I HAD TO BREAK HARD IN ORDER TO STOP THE CAR. I MOVED THE TRANSMISSION TO PARK, BUT THE ENGINE CONTINUED AT HIGH RPM SO I MOVED THE TRANSMISSION TO REVERSE, THEN TO NEUTRAL, THEN I TURNED OFF THE CAR OFF SINCE THE ENGINE WAS STILL AT A HIGH RPM. A NOTICE APPEARED IN MY ODOMETER AREA TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK, WHICH I DID. I THEN RESTARTED IT AND EVERYTHING WAS BACK TO NORMAL AGAIN. NOTE: I DID NOT SIMULTANEOUSLY PUSH THE BREAK AND THE ACCELERATOR TOGETHER WHICH COULD POSSIBLY CAUSE THIS SITUATION. I AM FORTUNATE NOTHING WAS IN FRONT OF ME EITHER TIME. I HOPE NO ONE HAS BEEN INJURED, BUT IT IS LIKELY PROPERTY DAMAGE HAS RESULTED. PLEASE DETERMINE THE CAUSE AND CORRECT THIS POTENTIALLY DEADLY SITUATION. I AM TAKING MY CAR FOR A 24,000 MILE SERVICE ON 1/3/2017 AND WILL DOCUMENT THIS WITH THE DEALER (MASTRO SUBARU) AT THAT TIME. I SUSPECT THIS IS A COMPUTER GLITCH, AND A POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS ONE AT THAT. I ALSO SUSPECT OTHER CAR MANUFACTURERS CAN HAVE THIS SAME ISSUE IF THESE COMPUTERS AND PROGRAMMING ALL COME FROM THE SAME THIRD PARTY.

CAR BATTERY DIES COLD WEATHER. NO WARNING. OBVIOUS DEFECT EITHER BATTERY OR ELECTRICAL DRAINAGE. I NOT ONLY OWNER WITH PROBLEM. ON LINE MANY COMPLAINTS WITH BATTERY DYING AND LEAVING ONE STRANDED COLD WEATHER. SUBARU AND DEALER KNOW OF DEFECT WILL NOT WARRANTY PROBLEM. TWICE STUCK WHEN CAR PARKED ON STREET AND GARAGE. WOULDN'T START.

I HAVE HAD 3 CRACKED WINDSHIELDS SINCE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE IN MAY OF 2016.

ON NOVEMBER 18 WE WERE DRIVING ALONG INTERSTATE 10 WHEN A CRACK APPEARED IN THE WINDSHIELD. THERE IS NO EVIDENCE OF A ROCK HITTING ALTHOUGH WE CAN'T SAY DEFINITELY WHETHER IT DID OR DID NOT

DURING A 75 MPH DRIVE ON AN INTERSTATE HWY THE MOONROOF EXPLODED. DUE TO CIRCUMSTANCES WE COULD NOT VISIT A DEALER AND WERE COMPELLED TO TAPE A TEMPORARY COVER TO THE VEHICLE TO LIMIT WIND NOISE. LATER IN THE TRIP RAIN OCCURRED, WHICH LEAKED INTO THE VEHICLE DAMAGING THE INTERIOR.

ON 09/19/2017 I HAVE BROUGHT OUR VEHICLE TO LITHIA RENO SUBARU FOR SERVICE ON THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR PANEL. WHEN THE DOOR HANDLE WAS PULLED ON WHILE CLOSING THE DOOR, THE DOOR PANEL PULLED IN EXCESSIVELY. LITHIA RENO SUBARU DETERMINED THAT THREE SCREWS WERE MISSING ON INNER DOOR PANEL. I BELIEVE THIS DEFECT EXISTED FROM THE TIME THE VEHICLE WAS FIRST ASSEMBLED AT THE FACTORY. THIS DEFECT WAS NOT COVERED BY MANUFACTURER WARRANTY.

DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY EARLY IN THE MORNING, NO OTHER CARS AROUND, HEARD A LOUD POP FOLLOWED BY A LARGE UPSIDE DOWN "L" CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM.

I HAD DIFFICULTY SEVERAL TIMES REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. THE LAST TIME THIS HAPPENED, I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY, BUT THE CAR DIED. I CALLED THE DEALER AND THEY GAVE ME THE LOCAL TOWING COMPANY. NAPLETON SUBARU KEPT THE CAR FOR TWO DAYS AND COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I HAVE BEEN AFRAID TO DRIVE THE CAR ON THE HIGHWAY, OR GO TOO FAR FROM HOME.

THE WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED A CRACK WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED. THERE WAS NO DAMAGE FROM THE ROAD OR OTHER SOURCES. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN REPORTED BY DOZENS OF OWNERS OF SUBARU OUTBACKS, ESPECIALLY ONES WITH THE SUBARU EYESIGHT SAFETY SYSTEM, WHICH MY VEHICLE HAS.

THE WINDSHIELD DEVELOPED A FISSURE OVER 2 FEET LONG WITH NO KNOWN (VISIBLE OR AUDIBLE IMPACT) I SIMPLY NOTICED IT AS I WAS DRIVING HOME AND IT WAS NOT THERE WHEN I LEFT HOME. IT STARTS IN THE LOWER PASSENGER SIDE UNDER THE BLACK PORTION AND RUNS HALF WAY ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD.

INTERMITTENTLY ALL THE LIGHTS IN THE DASH WILL GO OUT FOR APPROXIMATELY TWO SECONDS, THEN COME BACK ON. DURING THIS PERIOD OF TIME, I HAVE NOTHING ON THE DASH, NO SPEEDOMETER, TURN SIGNALS, EYESIGHT, RADIO, ETC. TO ME THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. IT HAPPENS, SO FAST THAT I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO SEE IF MY HEADLIGHTS OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE ARE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY OR NOT, SO THAT I AM BEING SEEN BY OTHER MOTORISTS. IT HAS HAPPENED ON TWO OCCASIONS WHEN I HIT A POTHOLE. MY DEALERSHIP HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO RE-CREATE THIS PROBLEM. I FEEL IT IS A SHORT IN THE DASH. IT IS ALWAYS WHEN I AM DRIVING, BUT IT NEVER LASTS MORE THAN 2-3 SECONDS AND THE DEALER TELLS ME TO "BRING IT IN WHILE IT'S HAPPENING". THIS HAPPENS EVERY FEW WEEKS AND HAS HAPPENED SINCE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE.

WHY IS THIS SITE REJECTING THE VIN FOR THIS VEHICLE. VIN IS 18 NUMBERS AND LETTERS BUT SAFERCAR.GOV JUST ACCEPTS ONLY 17 NUMBERS AND LETTERS SO COULD YOU EMAIL WITH THE ANSWER AND IS THE OUTBACK ON RECALL FOR TAKATA AIRBAGS

TAKATA RECALL - NOTHING HAPPENED, RECEIVED NOTICE OF POSSIBLE RECALL.

TAKATA RECALL

WHEN MAKING STEERING CORRECTIONS AS YOU DRIVE, THE STEERING MAKES THE CAR VERY TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT AS YOU MAKE SLIGHT STEERING CORRECTIONS. THE PROBLEM IS VERY NOTICEABLE AT HIGH SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE SWAYS ALLOT TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT AS YOU MAKE STEERING CORRECTIONS. THE PROBLEM HAPPENS CONSISTENTLY UNDER SLIGHT ACCELERATION OR DECELERATION. I WOULD DESCRIBE AS A DEAD ZONE WHEN STEERING. AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 55 AND 75 THE VEHICLE CAME VERY CLOSE TO SIDE SIDESWIPING ANOTHER VEHICLE.

FRONT WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED FROM TOP OF DRIVER SIDE DOWN BOTH SIDES WHILE SITTING IN HOME DRIVEWAY FOR ABOUT TWO HOURS ON CLEAR, 90 DEGREE DAY. NO IMPACTS NOTED WHILE DRIVING ABOUT 25 MILES EARLIER IN THE DAY, AND NO CHIP IN WINDSHIELD AT APPARENT IMPACT POINT. NOTHING FELL ON THE VEHICLE IN THE DRIVEWAY OR EXERTED PRESSURE ON THE GLASS.

EYESIGHT TECHNOLOGY WARNING SHOWED INOPERABLE ALONG WITH LANE DEPARTURE AND FRONT END COLLISION AVOIDANCE SYSTEM. THE CAR HAD BEEN RUNNING LESS THAN 3 MINUTES AFTER OVER 24 . PULLED OVER CALLED DEALER WHO ATTEMPTED TO WALK ME THROUGH RESET. UNSUCCESSFUL NO AVAILABILITY FOR SERVICE SO SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT 3 DAYS LATER. CAR WARNING LIGHTS CLEARED ON THEIR OWN. SHOWED ADVISOR EMAIL FROM AUTO MESS. FROM SUBARU INDICATING WARNING LIGHT WAS AN ISSUE. WAS TOLD CODE WOULD BE CHECKED BUT SUBARU WAS AWARE OF THE ISSUE WHEN SOME CARS WERE OVERHEATED. DEALERSHIP WAS ADVISED TO CLEAR THE CODE AND SEND PEOPLE ON THEIR WAY. NO CODES REGISTERED AT ALL IN THE SYSTEM AND WHEN I LET THEM KNOW THAT CAR WAS ABSOLUTELY NOT OVERHEATED, I WAS TOLD THERE WAS NOTHING THAT COULD BE DONE BECAUSE SUBARU KNOWS THAT WHEN CARS OVERHEAT IT SOMETIMES HAPPENS. NOTHING COULD BE DONE BUT THE GREATER CONCERN IS THAT THEIR PREMISE OF WHEN THE ISSUE IS OCCURRING IS INACCURATE AT LEAST IN OUR CAR'S CASE AND IT DID NOT APPEAR, DUE TO THE REPETITION OF THE COMPANY CONTENTION THAT OVERHEATING WAS THE CAUSE OF THE ISSUE NOR WERE THEY WILLING TO ENTERTAIN ANY OTHER SCENARIO THAN THAT WHICH SUBARU ALREADY DECIDED. SPOKE WITH SUBARU OF AMERICA WHO 7/10/17 CUSTOMER SERVICE WHO STATED NOT AWARE OF ANY ISSUES BUT WOULD LOOK IN TO IT. BY THE END OF DAY 7.13.17.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT NOTICED THROUGH THE REARVIEW MIRROR THAT THE REAR WINDOW LOOKED FROSTED OR WHITE. WHEN THE CONTACT CLOSED THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR, THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED INTO PIECES AND LEFT A BIG HOLE AROUND THE GLASS. THE CONTACT CALLED BROWN SUBARU DEALER AND WAS INFORMED THAT IT WAS OK TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BROWN SUBARU COLLISION CENTER WHERE THE REAR WINDOW WAS REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 14,500. UPDATED 08/04/17*LJ THE CONSUMER STATED THE MANUFACTURER WOULD BE GRANTING A REIMBURSEMENT. UPDATED 09/25/2017*JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DEALER (PERFORMANCE SUBARU, 1810 DURHAM-CHAPEL HILL BLVD, CHAPEL HILL, NC 27514, (919) 897-2146) WAS NOTIFIED THAT THE THREE REAR SEAT BELTS FAILED TO SECURE PROPERLY AND UNLATCHED INTERMITTENTLY. THE DEALER INDICATED THAT THEY HAD NO SPECIFIC REMEDY AND ADVISED THE CONTACT TO CALL THE MANUFACTURER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY EXPERIENCED UNINTENDED ACCELERATION. THE DRIVER LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE AND CRASHED INTO A UTILITY POLE. THE FRONT END WAS SEVERELY DAMAGED AND THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED; HOWEVER, THE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE DEALER AND THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 4,000. UPDATED 08/09/17*LJ UPDATED 10/13/2017*JS

AT TIMES, NOT ALL TIMES, THE IGNITION SWITCH LOCKS UP AND YOU HAVE TO DO ALL KINDS OF THINGS TO GET FREED. IT HAS HAPPENED TO WIFE A FEW TIMES IN PLACES THAT IS NOT THE BEST PLACES. ALSO IN THE DARKS, IN PARKING LOTS, AT THE STORE. WE HAVE TAKEN IT BACK TO THE DEALER 3 OR 4 TIMES OVER THE SAME PROBLEM THEY SAY BECAUSE THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM THERE IS NO PROBLEM. MY WIFE HAS CALLED ROADSIDE ASSIST FOR HELP A FEW TIMES. WE FEEL THERE IS A PROBLEM AND FALLS ON DEAF EARS. WE THROUGH WE WERE BUYING A GOOD CAR AND OUR LAST CAR. MAYBE WE PICKED THE WRONG DEALERSHIP, THEY KNOW HOW TO SELL, TALK A GOOD STORY BUT DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM. ALL WE HERE IS CANNOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM. ALSO WE WERE TOLD TO LEAVE THE STEERING WHEEL IN THE 3 AND 9 0'CLOCK POSITION, BEFORE WE TURN THE IGNITION OFF AND IT HAS LOCKED UP THERE ALSO. HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE YOUR WIFE AND YOUR KIDS BE STRANDED BECAUSE THE IGNITION LOCKED UP AND COULD NOT GET IT UNSTUCK? ALSO HAS STARTED THE CAR AND IT HAS DIE RIGHT A WAY THIS HAS HAPPEN A COUPLE OF TIMES.[ THERE WERE MORE TIMES THAN 1 ONE.] STATIONARY, CITY

IN HOT WEATHER AND BUMPER-TO-BUMPER TRAFFIC CONDITIONS, BRAKE PEDAL BECOMES VERY SPONGY AND SLOWLY INCHES TO THE FLOOR WITH CONSTANT PRESSURE APPLICATION. THIS ISSUE OCCURRED ON SEVERAL HOT DAYS, WITH OBSERVED TEMPERATURES RANGING FROM 80-100F. ON ONE RECENT OCCASION, THE BRAKE PEDAL HIT THE FLOOR WHEN STATIONARY AT A RED LIGHT. THE VEHICLE'S OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE GAUGE REGISTERED 100F AT THE TIME OF THE MOST RECENT EVENT.

3 SEPARATE EPISODES OF ENGINE RACING WHEN STEPPING ON BRAKE PEDAL AND CAR LURCHING FORWARD. BRAKE PEDAL VERY SPONGY AND WITH CONTINUOUS PRESSING GOES ALMOST DOWN TO FLOORBOARD. OCCURS WHEN VEHICLE MOVING SLOWLY IN CLOSE QUARTERS. ONE EPISODE OF BRAKE PEDAL GOING ALMOST TO FLOOR WHEN STOPPED AT LIGHT

WHILE DRIVING DOWN AN OPEN ROAD GOING ABOUT 45MPH WITH NO TREES AND NO OTHER VEHICLES AROUND US, OUR SUNROOF EXPLODED. I SAY EXPLODED BECAUSE WE THOUGHT WE HAD BEEN SHOT. IT WAS A VERY LOUD POP AND THEN WE WERE INSTANTLY COVERED IN GLASS. LIKE ALMOST THE ENTIRE SUNROOF WAS NOW IN PIECES AND INSIDE THE CAR. I ACTUALLY GOOGLED "EXPLODING SUNROOF" BECAUSE WE KNEW WE DIDN'T HIT ANYTHING. THERE ARE LITERALLY PAGES OF ACCOUNTS OF THIS HAPPENING AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS MANUFACTURERS LISTED AS HAVING THIS PROBLEM. ANYWAY, SUBARU DID REPLACE IT AND WE DID NOT HAVE TO FILE A CLAIM WITH OUR INSURANCE BUT WE COULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY INJURED IF WE WERE GOING ANY FASTER. THE PREVAILING THEORY IS THAT IN ORDER THE SAVE WEIGHT ON THE AFFECTED VEHICLES, THE FRAME OF THE SUNROOF ISN'T RIGID ENOUGH ALLOWING THE GLASS TO MOVE TOO MUCH WHICH CAUSES THE SPONTANEOUS EXPLOSION.

HIT DEER WITH RIGHT FRONT FENDER AT ABOUT 40 MPH ON A DRY, STRAIGHT HWY. IMPACT WAS MINOR, SHEET METAL DAMAGE ONLY,NO FLUID LOSS OR SUSPENSION SYSTEM DAMAGE BUT AIR BAGS DEPLOYED VIOLENTLY, MUCH SMOKE. SIDE AIR BAGS DID NOT DEFLATE MAKING IT VERY DIFFICULT TO EXIT VEHICLE. AIRBAG IMPACT ON LEFT EAR HAS DAMAGED HEARING, PROBABLY PERMANENTLY. CLEARWATER COUNTY IDAHO SHERIFFS OFFICE CASE NUMBER P2017-00350.

WHENEVER IT RAINS, THE FRONT PASSENGER FLOOR IS FLOODED WITH WATER. I HAVE COMPLAINED ABOUT THIS ISSUE TO THE DEALERSHIP AND SUBARU OF AMERICA, THEY MADE 4 ATTEMPTS TO FIX THE PROBLEM. EVERY TIME I COMPLAINED ABOUT THE PROBLEM, THE DEALERSHIP KEEPS MY VEHICLE FOR MORE THAN 2 WEEKS, THEY TELL ME SOME CAR STORY THAT I DO NOT UNDERSTAND, REASSURE ME THAT THE PROBLEM IS FIXED, BUT THE NEXT TIME IT RAINS, I AM BACK AT THE DEALERSHIP. ALL THESE PROBLEMS HAPPENED WITHIN 18 MONTHS OF MY VEHICLE PURCHASE. AT THE MOMENT, MY CAR IS STILL AT THE DEALERSHIP, THIS WILL BE THE 4TH TIME THE FLOOR IS FLOODED WITH WATER. I HAVE ASKED SUBARU OF AMERICA FOR MY FULL MONEY BACK, BUT THEY KEEP TELLING ME, THAT THEY ARE INVESTIGATING THE PROBLEM AND A REPRESENTATIVE WILL REACH OUT TO ME. WHEN THE FLOOR WAS FLOODED WITH WATER, THE CAR WAS STATIONARY AND IT WAS PARKED AT A PRIVATE PROPERTY PARKING LOT (NOT A GARAGE).

THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM FAILED TO BRAKE THE CAR AUTOMATICALLY.

DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR CRACKED-OPEN UNEXPECTEDLY WHEN VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION (DOOR WAS CAUGHT BY LATCH, PREVENTING IT FROM SWINGING OPEN FULLY). ISSUE FIRST OCCURRED AT AROUND 4000MI IN EARLY OCTOBER 2016 WHEN TRAVELING ON I278 EASTBOUND AT 50MPH. DRIVER THOUGHT SOMETHING WAS STUCK IN DOORJAMB. ISSUE REOCCURRED AT 4500MI IN MID OCTOBER 2016 ON RT17 SOUTHBOUND WITH 4 PEOPLE IN TOW, TRAVELING AT 65MPH. LOCAL SERVICE CENTER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE TWO OCCURRENCES AT 4573MI ON 22 OCT. 16. DOOR LATCH MECHANISM WAS INSPECTED AND DETERMINED WORKING AS DESIGNED. ISSUE REOCCURRED 500MI AFTER DOOR LATCH MECHANISM WAS LAST INSPECTED ON I278 WESTBOUND, TRAVELING AT 20MPH. ISSUE WAS ADDRESSED AT 5071MI ON 15 NOV. 16. DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY WAS REPLACED AND NO ISSUE ENCOUNTERED SINCE REPAIR. OBSERVED CONDITIONS AT TIME OF DOOR LATCH FAILURE WERE: HUMID, 60-74F TEMPERATURES, SMOOTH ROADS, NO POTHOLES, VEHICLE WAS TURNING TWICE LEFT AND ONCE RIGHT.

FRONT PASSENGER SEATS LOOSENED AT THE FLOOR LEVEL (PERHAPS FROM THEIR ANCHORAGE TO THE FLOOR OR AT THEIR TRACKS). SPECIFICALLY, REAR PART OF SEATS CAN MOVE UP AND DOWN AND FORWARD ON AN ARC WITH DRIVER AND PASSENGER IN RESPECTIVE SEATS. EVENT HAPPENS WHEN DECELERATING AND WHEN VEHICLE IS DIVING FORWARD AS A RESULT OF A BUMP. THIS UNINTENDED SEAT MOVEMENT CAUSES THE DRIVER TO MOVE CLOSER TO THE STEERING WHEEL AND WINDSHIELD WITH THE SEAT. THE FRONT PASSENGER ALSO GETS PUSHED FORWARD TOWARD THE WINDSHIELD AND DASH. THIS ISSUE HAPPEN(S/ED) AT CITY AND HIGHWAY SPEEDS. ISSUES WERE MADE AWARE TO SERVICE TECHNICIANS AT 3748MI ON 08 OCT. 16 AND 4573MI ON 22 OCT. 16. DRIVER'S SEAT IS LOOSENING AGAIN WITH VEHICLE AT 9090MI ON 03 MAR. 17.

THE BREAKS LOCKED UP ON ME AS I WAS ABOUT TO PASS A TURNING CAR. THEY ALSO LOCKED UP ON ME ONCE WHEN A CAR WAS GETTING IN MY LANE. I SAW BOTH OF THESE CARS AND WAS NOT IN DANGER OF HITTING ONE OF THEM.

WINDSHIELD CRACK APPEARED SUDDENLY ORIGINATING NEAR THE HEATING ELEMENT AT THE BOTTOM .DO NOT SEE ANY VISIBLE ROCK HIT MARKS . DEALERSHIP DOES NOT ACKNOWLEDGE ANY MANUFACTURING DEFECTS AND I HAVE TO GET IT REPAIRED USING MY INSURANCE .

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ALL FOUR DOORS FAILED TO OPEN AND REQUIRED EXCESSIVE FORCE. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE ICE WOULD BUILD UP, CAUSING THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 12,029....UPDATED 03/29/17 *BF ...UPDATED 04/20/17 *BF *CN

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE BRAKES WERE DEPRESSED, BUT THE VEHICLE INCREASED IN SPEED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE COLLIDED INTO AN EMBANKMENT AND CRASHED INTO A POLE. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS INVALID. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000.

INTERSTATE DRIVING. 65 MPH. NIGHTTIME DRIVING. CRUISE CONTROL OFF. SUBARU EYESIGHT STEERING CORRECTION OFF. THREE ADULT PASSENGERS. NO LUGGAGE. NO EXTRA WEIGHT. THULE ROOF CARGO CONTAINER SECURED TO THE ROOF RACKS. SUDDEN ENCOUNTER OF ICE ON ROAD. SIGNIFICANTLY DEGRADED STEERING CAPABILITY. WE WERE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 1-90 AND ENCOUNTERED AN UNEXPECTED LONG PATCH OF ICE ON A STRAIGHT SECTION OF ROAD. IT WAS VERY SMOOTH ICE WITHOUT SNOW COVER. THE CAR FELT LIKE THE REAR END WANTED TO COME AROUND AND I HAD TO COUNTER STEER TO KEEP THE CAR STRAIGHT. I IMMEDIATELY LET OFF THE ACCELERATOR AND DID NOT TOUCH THE BREAK. THE CAR THEN BECAME EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO STEER. IT FELT LIKE THE CAR WAS CAUGHT IN DEEP ICE RUTS, BOUNCING BACK AND FORTH FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. THERE WERE NO ICE RUTS; THE ICE WAS SMOOTH. THE MOTION OF THE CAR WAS SEVERE ENOUGH THAT THE MOTION WOKE PASSENGERS. I LOST ALL CONFIDENCE THAT I COULD STEER THE CAR. I DID NOT TOUCH EITHER THE ACCELERATOR NOR THE GAS. I WAS ONLY TRYING TO REGAIN STEERING. I EVENTUALLY COASTED TO 40 MPH BEFORE I COULD REGAIN CONTROL. I HAVE DRIVEN ON ICE FOR 25+ YEARS AND HAVE NEVER ENCOUNTERED A CAR LIKE THIS. IT FELT LIKE THE CAR WAS TRYING TO STEER ITSELF AND THEN TRYING TO CORRECT ITSELF FOR AN OVER STEER. THIS LED TO ANOTHER CORRECTION BY THE VEHICLE. THIS BACK AND FORTH "MICRO" AUTO CORRECTION MADE STEERING EXTREMELY DIFFICULT. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS CAR. CAR HAS < 10,000 MILES. NO WRECKS. GOOD CONDITION. TIRES IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. ALL TIRES AT RECOMMENDED TIRE PRESSURE (40 PSI) THE MORNING BEFORE IN INCIDENT. THERE IS SOMETHING FUNDAMENTALLY WRONG WITH THIS CAR. IT IS A SERIOUS AND DANGEROUS PROBLEM.

THE CAR AFTER 6 MONTHS HAS BEEN MAKING AN INTERMITTENT RATTLE NOISE THAT I BROUGHT INTO SUBARU TO INVESTIGATE. I SHARE THE VIDEO BUT THEY STATED THEY NEED TO RECREATE THE NOISE TO KNOW WHAT WAS WRONG. AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS, THEY FINALLY HEARD THE NOISE AND WITHOUT TESTING STATED THE EVAPORATOR PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER REPLACING THE PUMP THE ISSUE WAS STILL THERE. I THEN PUSHED THE ISSUE FURTHER AND SUBARU AMERICA ONLY RECOMMENDED THAT I BRING THE CAR TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP. I DID THIS WHERE THEY PLANED TO DRIVE THE CAR TO AND FROM THEIR TOP MECHANICS HOME HOOKED UP TO THE DIAGNOSTIC SUBARU COMPUTER. WHEN WE PICKED THE CAR UP WITH NO RESOLVE, THEY ONLY DROVE THE CAR FOR 1 MILE WHICH MEANS IT NEVER WHEN BETWEEN MILFORD, CT TO MONROE, CT. AT THIS POINT MY FAMILY IS POISED TO LOSE THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS ON A BRAND NEW CAR THAT DOES NOT MEET THE LEMON LAW IN MY STATE AND HAS NO RESOLVE FOR A NOISE THAT WAKES UP MY 14 MONTH SON WHO IS A SOUND SLEEPER. THE NOISE IS EXTREMELY LOUD THAT PEOPLE CAN HEAR THE NOISE WHEN OCCURRING WHEN INSIDE THEIR HOMES AS I PULL UP. THE LAST DEALERSHIP ADVISOR TOLD ME SUBARU KNEW OF A SIMILAR CASE WHERE THE COMPUTER WAS DEFECTED AND HAD TO EXCHANGE THE MATTER BUT IN MY CASE THEY DID NOT RECOMMEND THIS AND WHEN I ASKED WHY TO THE SERVICE MANAGER, HE DENIED WHAT THE ADVISORS TOLD ME FROM THE NOTES. I FEEL SUBARU HAD DECEIVED ME AND IS TRYING TO COVER SOMETHING UP AS I DO NOT FEEL CONFIDED THAT THE EMISSIONS OR OTHER MECHANICS SYSTEMS ARE WORKING PROPERLY DESPITE SUBARU STATING EVERYTHING IS NORMAL.

THIS ISSUE IS A SAFETY ENHANCEMENT REQUEST AFFECTING TOP OF THE LINE SUBARU OUTBACK 2016 LIMITED/PREMIUM MODELS EQUIPPED WITH KEYLESS IGNITION SYSTEMS. THIS ISSUE IS SIMILAR TO THAT REPORTED IN NHTSA ID NUMBER:10881286. ISSUE: IT IS POSSIBLE FOR A DRIVER TO INADVERTENTLY TURN OFF THE ENGINE (WE ARE ONLY HUMAN) USING THE START/STOP BUTTON WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN DRIVE, PARK OR NEUTRAL. IF VEHICLE IS ON A SLOPE, THE VEHICLE WILL ROLL FORWARDS OR BACKWARDS ON IT'S OWN. THIS PRESENTS A SERIOUS RISK OF GRAVE BODILY HARM TO PEOPLE IN THE PATH OF THE UNATTENDED MOVING VEHICLE. THIS ALREADY HAPPENED WITH MY VEHICLE, LUCKILY IT HAPPENED INSIDE MY GARAGE ON A VERY SLIGHT SLOPE AND MY CLOSED GARAGE DOOR STOPPED THE VEHICLE. IF MY CHILDREN HAD BEEN BEHIND THE VEHICLE, REMOVING THEIR SCHOOL BAGS, THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN PINNED TO THE GARAGE DOOR BY A 3500 LB VEHICLE. UNACCEPTABLE. I REPAIRED THE SLIGHT DAMAGE BODY WORK ON THE VEHICLE AT THE DEALER BUT THAT IS IRRELEVANT COMPARED TO THE SAFETY RISK PRESENTED BY THIS "WORKS AS DESIGNED" BEHAVIOR OF THE CAR. POSSIBLE WORKAROUND: 1. SUBARU NEEDS TO CHANGE THIS BEHAVIOR AND ELIMINATE THE RISK BY AUTOMATICALLY ENGAGING THE ELECTRIC "PARK BRAKE" THAT IS ALREADY INSTALLED IN THIS MODEL VEHICLE, WHEN THE ENGINE IS TURNED OFF. 2. DISABLE ENGINE STOP UNTIL TRANSMISSION IS SET TO PARK. THE CURRENT AUDIBLE WARNING IS INSUFFICIENT. MY 15 YEAR OLD VEHICLE DID NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION SLOT UNTIL PARK LEVER WAS ENGAGED TO PREVENT THIS EXACT PROBLEM. *TR

1ST OCCURRENCE: WHILE DRIVING ON A COUNTY ROAD, ALL WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON. BROUGHT VEHICLE BACK TO DEALER, DEALER REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION. *TR

LESS THAN 1 WEEK LATER, 2ND OCCURRENCE: WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE, ALL WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AND VEHICLE SUDDENLY LOST FORWARD MOVEMENT. VEHICLE WAS RUNNING BUT NOT ENGAGING ENOUGH TO PROPEL VEHICLE. TOWED TO DEALER, DEALER REPAIRED PILOT PIN IN TRANSMISSION. *TR

3RD OCCURRENCE: WHILE DRIVING ON A STATE HIGHWAY, VEHICLE JERKED, ALL WARNING LIGHTS CAME ON AND VEHICLE LOST MOVEMENT WITH RESISTANCE. TOWED TO DEALER. *TR

THE SUBARU EYESIGHT SYSTEM IS DANGEROUS. I'VE HAD TWO INSTANCES WHERE THE VEHICLE ACTIVATED THE FORWARD-COLLISION WARNING AND STARTED TO BREAK FOR REASONS UNKNOWN TO ME. ONCE WAS IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION. FORTUNATELY, THE CARS BEHIND ME WERE NOT TOO CLOSE TO REAR END ME. THIS HAPPENED AROUND 2 P.M. IN THE MIDDLE OF SUMMER WITH THE SUN BEHIND THE VEHICLE. I BROUGHT THE VEHICLE IN FOR RECALL WORK TO THE LOCAL SUBARU DEALERSHIP SEVERAL MONTHS LATER AND ASKED THEM TO PULL ANY RELEVANT DATA FOR THE TWO INCIDENTS. BY THEN, THE SYSTEM CLEARED THOSE TWO EVENTS. THE DEALER SAID I SHOULD PURCHASE A VIDEO CAMERA AND RUN IT IN THE CAR WHILE DRIVING TO CAPTURE ANY FALSE ALARMS IN ORDER TO HELP THEM TROUBLESHOOT IT AS ACCORDING TO THEM THE SYSTEM DOES NOT CAPTURE ANY VIDEO/IMAGE DATA WHEN IT RECORDS AN EVENT. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY OUTRAGEOUS. SUBARU HAS CAMERAS IN THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM AND FLASH MEMORY TO STORE DATA IN - STORING AN IMAGE SNAPSHOT IS NOT OVERLY STORAGE INTENSIVE, AND YET I AM SUPPOSED TO INVEST SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS IN AN INDEPENDENT VIDEO CAMERA TO HELP SUBARU DEBUG THEIR SYSTEM. THE DEALERSHIP SUGGESTED NOT USING EYESIGHT ON SUNNY DAYS WHERE THE CAMERA COULD BE BLINDED BY THE SUN. HELLO - I LIVE IN NEVADA, IT'S SUNNY HERE OVER 300 DAYS PER YEAR. THIS WOULD MAKE THE EYESIGHT SYSTEM PRACTICALLY USELESS AND I'LL LOSE CRUISE CONTROL. HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO KNOW WHEN IT'S TOO SUNNY FOR THE SYSTEM THAT IT WILL MALFUNCTION?

THE 3.6R ENGINE IMMEDIATELY AFTER COLD START DOES ABOUT 5 CYCLING SURGES OF ABOUT 300 RPM WITH TRANSMISSION IN FORWARD OR REVERSE AND BRAKES APPLIED. THIS EVENT DOES NOT HAPPEN UNLESS TRANSMISSION IS PUT IN GEAR WITH BRAKES APPLIED. THE SURGE DOES NOT HAPPEN AFTER A SHORT WARM UP. IT DOES PRESENT A DRIVING PROBLEM WITH A TIGHT PARKING SITUATION OR TO DEPARTING A GARAGE.

FRONT WINDSHIELD CONTINUES TO CRACK CAUSING STRUCTURAL DEFECT IN VEHICLE. RECALL SUBARU 12-192-15R EXTENDED WARRANTY ONE TIME. WINDOW REPLACEMENT HAS CRACKED A TOTAL OF 6 TIMES IN 18,000 MILES. FRONT WINDOW CRACKED 4 TIMES WHILE VEHICLE WAS MOVING WITH NO APPARENT OBJECT BEING HIT. FRONT WINDOW CRACKED 2 TIMES WHILE BEING PARKED. REPEATED ISSUES NOTED IN WWW.SUBARUOUTBACK.ORG FOR MODEL YEARS 15, 16, AND 17.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WHILE DRIVING ON I-684. THERE WAS NO OBJECT THAT HIT THE GLASS OR SOUND OF ANYTHING HITTING. JUST A CRACK ORIGINATING FROM THE DEICER AREA OF THE WINDSHIELD TOWARDS THE DRIVER'S SIDE AND UP AND TO THE RIGHT THAT APPEARED SUDDENLY. THERE WAS NO ADVERSE WEATHER AND THE CAR WAS OPERATING AS NORMAL. THE DEFROSTER WAS ON AT THE TIME.

I EXITED THE EXPRESSWAY. I WAS APPROACHING A RED LIGHT. THIS WAS WHERE I USUALLY MAKE A RIGHT TO GO HOME. OBVIOUSLY I WAS TRYING TO SLOW DOWN THE CAR, AND I STEPPED ON THE BRAKE. AND THE CAR DID NOT SLOW DOWN. I CONTINUED PUMPING THE BRAKES BUT THE BRAKES WOULD NOT WORK. MY WIFE WAS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT, AND MY MOTHER-IN-LAW WAS RIDING IN THE BACK SEAT. AS THE BRAKES FAILED, I CONTINUED ATTEMPTING TO SLOW THE CAR. ULTIMATELY, WE WERE INVOLVED IN A TWO-CAR COLLISION IN WHICH THE PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL-WELL OF MY CAR WAS CRUSHED. MY WIFE, MY MOTHER-IN LAW, AND I SUFFERED SEVERE INJURIES. MY WIFE SUFFERED FRACTURED RIBS, A FRACTURED STERNUM, A FRACTURED PELVIS, AND HER ANKLE WAS CRUSHED. MY MOTHER-IN LAW SUFFERED FRACTURED RIBS AND A CONCUSSION. I SUFFERED FRACTURED RIBS, AND THE TRAUMA HAS LED TO A FLAIR UP OF MY PREEXISTING MEDICAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THE ACCIDENT, WE WERE RUSHED BY EMS TO THE HOSPITAL WHERE WE RECEIVED TREATMENT FOR OUR INJURIES. WHILE MY MOTHER-IN LAW AND I WERE RELEASED FROM THE HOSPITAL NEXT DAY, MY WIFE CONTINUES TO RECEIVE TREATMENT AT THE HOSPITAL. SHE HAD ON HER ANKLE EXTENSIVE RECONSTRUCTIVE SURGERY THAT REQUIRED THREE METAL PLATES TO HOLD HER BONES TOGETHER WHILE THEY HEAL. SHE WILL SOON BEGIN REHABILITATION, LEARNING TO WALK AGAIN. MY WIFE'S RECOVERY IS EXPECTED TO TAKE MANY MONTHS. SHORTLY AFTER BUYING THE CAR, IT WAS RECALLED DUE TO ISSUES WITH THE CAR'S STEERING COLUMN. RECENTLY, MANY MORE OF THE SAME CAR HAVE BEEN RECALLED DUE TO ISSUES WITH THE CAR'S BRAKE CALIPERS. I BELIEVE MY CAR MAY HAVE EXPERIENCED THESE BRAKE ISSUES TOO. I WOULD APPRECIATE AN INVESTIGATION INTO THE BRAKES OF 2016 SUBARU OUTBACKS. THANK YOU. *TR

I DESCEND A STEEP, CROOKED COUNTRY ROAD TO REACH MY HOUSE AND LOCK MY TRANSMISSION IN SECOND GEAR TO AVOID HAVING TO APPLY BRAKES. IN LOW IDLE, THE VEHICLE SPEED IS WELL CONTROLLED BUT WHEN THE FUEL CONTROL SHIFTS TO HIGH IDLE THE ENGINE SPEED INCREASES FROM 2000 TO ABOUT 3500 RPM WITH A CORRESPONDING INCREASE IN VEHICLE SPEED WHICH REQUIRES RAPID, SHARP BRAKE APPLICATION. DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS THIS IS ONLY MILDLY IRRITATING BUT WHEN THE ROADS ARE COVERED WITH ICE AND SNOW THIS WINTER SUDDEN BRAKE APPLICATION WILL BECOME VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE OF THE SHARP CURVES AND STEEP DROP-OFFS. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LOW AND HIGH IDLE SETTINGS IS EXCESSIVE AND SUBARU SHOULD BE FORCED TO CORRECT THIS DESIGN DEFICIENCY. I HAVE LIVED IN THIS LOCATION FOR OVER TWENTY YEARS AND DRIVEN THIS ROAD WITH ABOUT SIX OTHER VEHICLES WITHOUT DIFFICULTY BUT I DREAD THE APPROACH OF THIS WINTER. THE DEALER ADMITS THAT THIS IS A FREQUENT COMPLAINT BUT BEYOND THEIR CONTROL BECAUSE IT IS GOVERNED BY A COMPUTER IN THE FUEL CONTROL SYSTEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS SECURED IN PARK WITH THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ENGAGED, THE VEHICLE LUNGED FORWARD INDEPENDENTLY WHEN THE BRAKE WAS RELEASED. THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE CRASHED INTO ANOTHER VEHICLE. THE DRIVER THEN SHIFTED INTO REVERSE AND THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED INDEPENDENTLY IN REVERSE. THE DRIVER SHIFTED INTO DRIVE AND THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY ACCELERATED FORWARD AGAIN AND CRASHED INTO THE SIDE OF A BUILDING. THE VEHICLE JUMPED A CURB AND CRASHED INTO A TREE COMING TO A STOP. THE AIR BAGS FAILED TO DEPLOY. A POLICE REPORT WAS FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS INSPECTED BY THE DEALER; HOWEVER, A DIAGNOSTIC TEST SHOWED NO FAULT CODES. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,100.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A TURN, THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED HESITATION WHILE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FORWARD COLLISION AVOIDANCE SYSTEM MALFUNCTIONED AND THE VEHICLE EXPERIENCED UNINTENDED DECELERATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, BUT THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE REPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 10,000.

WHEN I BACK UP AND STOP AND PUT TRANSMISSION INTO DRIVE THERE IS A 3 TO 4 SECOND HESITATION BEFORE THE VEHICLE GOES FORWARD. THIS HESITATION PUTS ME INTO RISK AS I BACK OUT OF DRIVEWAY ONTO A BUSY URBAN STREET. THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THIS THE WAY THE CVT TRANSMISSION WORKS. THE PROBLEM WAS BROUGHT TO THE ATTENTION OF THE DEALER THE 1ST WEEK THAT I PURCHASED THE CAR ON 09/30/2015. THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS WHEN GOING FROM A QUICK REVERSE TO DRIVE.

VEHICLE WARNING LIGHTS IN PASSENGER SIDE MIRROR DO NOT ACTIVATE FOR SEMI-TRUCKS WITH TRAILERS, BUT DO ACTIVATE FOR CARS AND LIGHT TRUCKS. I TRIED DURING A 40 KM. TRIP ON A FOUR LANE INTERSTATE HIGHWAY. IF PASSED A CAR OR LIGHT DUTY TRUCK THEN THE LIGHT NOTIFIED ME THAT THERE WAS A VEHICLE IN THE BLIND SPOT, BUT IF I PASSED A TRACTOR-TRAILER UNIT IT DID NOT PICK IT UP AND THE LIGHTS DID NOT COME ON. I REPEATED MY SMALL EXPERIMENT FOR 40 KM. AND EVERY TIME WAS THE SAME. I THINK THAT THE TRACTOR TRAILER WOULD DO A LOT MORE DAMAGE THAT A SMALL CAR.

HAVE 2016 OUTBACK BUILT ON JUNE 15,2016. WINDSHIELD CRACKED AT 750 KM. MARK. TRAVELING ON PAVED ROAD AND NO KNOW STONES HIT WINDSHIELD. PAID FOR THROUGH INSURANCE COMPANY WITH A $300.00 DEDUCTIBLE. NOW READ OF ALL THE OTHER WINDSHIELD PROBLEMS. CRACK STARTED IN BLACK AREA JUST ABOVE PASSENGER SIDE WIPER.

A FEW TIMES WHILE SLOWING DOWN OR PUTTING ON THE BRAKES I FOUND MY FOOT WAS ALSO ON THE GAS PEDAL. I FIND THAT THE GAS PEDAL AND BRAKE PEDAL ARE VERY CLOSE AND AT THE SAME HEIGHT. THE LAST TIME AT THE DEALER I ASKED TO CHECK OUT THE BRAKE PEDAL AND WAS TOLD EVERY THING WAS IN ORDER.

THERE IS A GLARE ON THE INFO SCREEN THAT MAKES IT IMPOSSIBLE TO READ MOST DAYLIGHT TIMES, NEEDS TO BE RECESSED AND/OR HOODED, THE AREA BELOW THAT SAYS TEMP AND TIME IS PLAIN UNREADABLE -ALSO VERY SMALL. HAVE SEEN THIS PROBLEM ON SUBARU FORUM FOR YEARS - SEEMS TIME TO ADDRESS BEFORE SOMEONE HAS A CRASH WITH THIS VEHICLE THEY BOUGHT BECAUSE IT WAS SO SAFE.

WE BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE BASICALLY FOR THE SAFETY FEATURES "EYE SIGHT" AND ENHANCED SAFETY SYSTEM.I.E. CRUISE THAT AUTOMATICALLY KEEPS YOU A CERTAIN DISTANCE FROM THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF YOU AND STOPS WHEN THE CAR IN FRONT STOPS - TROUBLE IS YOU ARE GOING ALONG AND THERE IS A LINE OF CARS STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT - THE CAR DOES NOT ACT LIKE IT IS GOING TO STOP AND CERTAINLY DOES NOT KEEP THE "4 CAR DISTANCE" UNTIL YOU GET SCARED AND BRAKE - NOT GOING TO CRASH TO SEE IF IT WILL ACTUALLY STOP.

TOOK DELIVERY OF OUR CAR IN THE RAIN - DEALERSHIP DID NOT HAVE IT WAITING IN A SHOWROOM - SO DIDN'T NOTICE SCRATCH ON BOTH SIDES (IT IS BLACK) TIL GOT IT HOME AND CLEANED IT UP. DEALERSHIP ON RECHECK BUFFED OUT THE WHOLE CAR - STILL THERE - DISAPPOINTED - A LOT OF MONEY FOR A VEHICLE TO HAVE SUCH AN ELEMENTARY TROUBLE.

REAR VIEW MIRROR BROKE LOOSE FROM WINDSHIELD WHILE BEING ADJUSTED. VEHICLE STATIONARY, VEHICLE OFF, PREPARING TO DRIVE AFTER BEING PARKED DURING THE WORK DAY. A CHUNK OF GLASS REMAINED ATTACHED TO THE BASE OF THE MIRROR. VEHICLE HAS LESS THAN 600 MILES ON IT AND THE MIRROR HAD NOT BEEN SUBJECTED TO ANY ABNORMAL FORCES. BALL SOCKETS ON MIRROR SUPPORT SEEM VERY TIGHT.

I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE TOXIC CHEMICALS THAT MAY HAVE BEEN USED ON THE PLASTICS INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THE "NEW CAR SMELL" IS ESPECIALLY FRAGRANT, AND AFTER SITTING IN THE CAR FOR LESS THAN FIVE MINUTES, I DEVELOP A METALLIC TASTE IN MY MOUTH THAT LINGERS, EVEN IF I HAVE LEFT THE CAR. IT CAN LINGER FOR HOURS. I AM TAKING MEASURES TO WIPE OFF CHEMICALS THAT MAY RELEASE DURING A HOT DAY/OPEN THE WINDOWS, ETC. THIS SMELL IS SO INTENSE, HOWEVER, THAT THE TASTE IN MY MOUTH AND THE MOUTHS OF MY FAMILY MEMBERS, IS ALMOST UNBEARABLE AT TIMES. I AM CONCERNED FOR OUR HEALTH, FOR THE TOXIC GASES WE MAY BE BREATHING IN AND EVEN COMING IN CONTACT WITH. WE HAVE OWNED THE CAR SINCE APRIL 2016 (ABOUT TWO MONTHS) AND THERE IS NO SIGN OF IT GETTING BETTER. I HAVE READ THAT IT CAN TAKE UP TO 6 MONTHS FOR THE SMELL TO DIMINISH, BUT DOES THAT REALLY REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF HARMFUL CHEMICALS WE ARE BEING SUBJECTED TO? THANK YOU FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE. *TR

IT IS POSSIBLE TO INADVERTENTLY STOP THE CAR'S ENGINE WHEN PARKING AND TRANSMISSION PUT IN NEUTRAL. THERE IS NO VISIBLE OR AUDIBLE WARNING TO ALERT DRIVER TO SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO "PARK" POSITION OR AND/OR ENGAGE EMERGENCY BRAKE BEFORE STOPPING ENGINE AND EXITING THE VEHICLE. IF CAR IS ON A SLOPE WHEN IN "NEUTRAL", IT IS POSSIBLE TO EXIT THE CAR AND FIND THE CAR STARTING TO ROLL AWAY.I BELIEVE THERE SHOULD BE SOMETHING TO PREVENT THIS, OR AT LEAST ACTIVELY ALERT THE DRIVER OF THE DANGER, AND NEED TO PUT IN "PARK", BEFORE LEAVING CAR. I HAVE HAD SOME INSTANCES OF THIS HAPPENING, BUT ALWAYS MANAGED TO NOTICE IT BEFORE THE CAR MOVED AWAY. I AM WARY OF THE RISK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL ACTIVATED, THE VEHICLE VEERED TO THE LEFT WITHOUT WARNING. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,400.

WINDSHIELD CRACK ON A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK LIMITED WITH EYESIGHT, PURCHASED NEW IN APRIL 2016 AND CURRENTLY HAS 2,200 MILES ON IT. WENT TO RUN A QUICK ERRAND, DID NOT NOTICE ANYTHING UNUSUAL. ON THE WAY HOME WHILE DRIVING IN A RAINSTORM, I NOTICED A 6" CRACK ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE WINDSHIELD. THE CRACK RUNS FROM THE EDGE OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE, ABOUT 1/3 UP FROM THE BOTTOM AND ABOUT 4' IN TOWARD THE CENTER. THE CRACK HAS GROWN TO ABOUT 18 INCHES OVERNIGHT. THERE IS EVIDENCE OF A SMALL CHIP IN THE GLASS, BUT NOTHING I WOULD EXPECT TO CAUSE A CRACK AND I DON'T RECALL ANYTHING IMPACTING THE WINDSHIELD. THIS CRACK ONLY AFFECTS THE OUTER GLASS AND DOES NOT PROPAGATE THROUGH THE LAMINATION INTO THE INNER GLASS. THERE IS EVIDENCE OF DELAMINATION OF THE GLASS IN THE AREA ADJACENT TO THE CRACK. THIS IS A WIDE CRACK. I MEASURED 0.009" IMMEDIATELY ADJACENT TO THE CHIP DAMAGE ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGE OF THE GLASS WITH A STARRETT MODEL 66 THICKNESS GAGE. IT SEEMS THE OUTER GLASS MAY BE SUBJECT TO TENSION IN THE "AS INSTALLED" CONDITION AS EVIDENCED BY THE OPENING OF THIS CRACK. THIS MAY CONTRIBUTE TO THE APPARENT DAMAGE INTOLERANCE OF THE WINDSHIELD. PICTURES OF THE DAMAGE AND MEASUREMENT ARE ATTACHED.

WE PURCHASED A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6, FULLY-LOADED WITH EVERY BELL AND WHISTLE REGARDING SAFETY, COMFORT, AND CONVENIENCE IN THE MIDDLE OF DECEMBER 2015. THE SUBARU STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM'S TECHNOLOGY FROZE CAUSING THE CLOCK TO FREEZE AT 10:37AM AS WELL AS THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM (NO VOICE COMMANDS EITHER.) THE MULTI-TOUCH INTERFACE NOT ONLY LOST FUNCTIONALITY ACROSS THE BOARD, BUT IT AFFECTED THE MESSAGE DISPLAY BETWEEN THE TACH AND SPEEDOMETER, AS WELL AS THE TOUCH SCREEN OPTIONS DISAPPEARING FROM THE SCREEN, THE MAP WOULD NOT DISPLAY, YOU WOULD PRESS THE AUDIO BUTTON AND AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS, THE AUDIO SCREEN WOULD AUTOMATICALLY ENTER SPLIT-SCREEN MODE WITH THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM. WHEN TRYING TO EXIT SPLIT-SCREEN, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT RESPOND. IF I SHUT THE RADIO OFF BY THE BUTTON, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT SHUT DOWN. THE RADIO WOULD SAY, "AUDIO OFF - TOUCH HERE TO GO TO SOURCE SCREEN", HOWEVER THE SYSTEM WOULDN'T SHUT DOWN. THE SYSTEM WOULD STAY ON SPLIT SCREEN WITH THE MAP, ONLY THE MAP WOULD DISAPPEAR. I VIDEOTAPED WHAT WAS HAPPENING, CALLED STARLINK, SUBARU OF AMERICA, AND THE DEALER, WHO HAS BEEN AWESOME SO FAR, AND WAS TOLD THEY KNOW OF ONE OTHER VEHICLE WITH THIS SITUATION. SUBARU OF AMERICA SAID TO SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND "REBOOT" THE SYSTEM TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP BECAUSE IT DID IN ANOTHER INSTANCE, ALTHOUGH NOT TOTALLY CORRECTING THE PROBLEM AND ONLY ADDRESSING THE GPS FREEZE. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF TSBS (TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS) ON THE RADIO, HOWEVER NONE APPLIED TO THE SYMPTOMS BEING DISPLAYED BY MY VEHICLE. WAITING ON SUBARU OF AMERICA TO ADDRESS THIS AND A ROOF RAIL ISSUE. DEALER BELIEVES THERE WILL BE MANY MORE OF THESE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SUBARU STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM'S TECHNOLOGY. REGARDING THE ROOF RAILS, THEY DO NOT SIT FLUSH TO THE ROOF. DEALER REPLACED LEFT SIDE ALREADY AND STILL HAPPENING, SO SUBARU HAS TO ADDRESS IT NOW.

STEERING RECALL- NO PARTS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V292000 (STEERING). THE CONTACT LEFT THREE MESSAGES WITH THE DEALER CONCERNING PART AVAILABILITY, BUT DID NOT RECEIVE A RESPONSE. THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE REMAINED PARKED FOR WEEKS. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

I TOOK MY 2016 OUTBACK IN TO A DEALER PRIMARILY BECAUSE THE PASSENGER SIDE BLIND SPOT DETECTION WAS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, ACKNOWLEDGING THAT IT DID WORK AT TIMES. I TOOK IN WRITTEN DOCUMENTATION IN THE FORM OF RECORDED OCCURRENCES OF IT MALFUNCTIONING, BASED ON THREE TRIPS ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAYS TOTALING MORE THAN 150 MILES. THE DOCUMENTATION LISTED THE TYPE OF HIGHWAY, SPEED, MILES DRIVEN, WEATHER CONDITIONS (COULDS, SUN, RAIN, ETC), VEHICLE CLEANLINESS AND THE NUMBER OF SUCCESSFUL DETECTIONS OF OTHER VEHICLES IN THE BLIND SPOT AS WELL AS THE NUMBER OF DETECTIONS MISSED. IT WORKED CORRECTLY WELL LESS THAN 50% OF THE TIME ON EACH OF THE THREE TRIPS. DETECTION ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE SEEMS TO BE FINE. ON TWO OF THE TRIPS I HAD A SECOND VEHICLE THAT I OWN FOLLOW ME DIRECTLY. THAT VEHICLE ALSO HAS BLIND SPOT DETECTION. WHILE THE OUTBACK FAILED TO DETECT MORE THAN 50% OF THE TIME, THE OTHER VEHICLE NEVER FAILED TO DETECT ON EITHER TRIP. THE DEALER I TOOK THE CAR TO SAID THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND IT SEEMED TO WORK FINE. I CONSIDERED THAT AN INSULT TO MY INTELLIGENCE. FURTHER, THROUGH RESEARCH ON THE WEB I CAN TELL THAT AT LEAST SEVERAL OTHER OUTBACK OWNERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM WITH DETECTION ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. I BELIEVE THAT A SAFETY SYSTEM THAT IS THAT UNRELIABLE PRESENTS MORE OF A DANGER TO THE DRIVER THAN NOT HAVING ONE AT ALL. WHILE I UNDERSTAND FROM READING THE OWNER'S MANUAL IT CAN'T BE EXPECTED TO BE 100% ACCURATE ALL THE TIME, A DETECTION RATE THAT IS CONSISTENTLY LESS THAN 50% IS VERY POOR PERFORMANCE. THE VEHICLE COST MORE THAN $37,000. I PAID FOR THE ACCESSORY, AND IT SHOULD WORK.

I TRIED TO MAKE A LEFT TURN AT A TRAFFIC NIGHT LEAVING A SCHOOL PARKING LOT ON A SATURDAY MORNING. THE CAR WAS AT A FULL STOP BEFORE MAKING A LEFT TURN. THE SPEED WAS ABOUT 10-15 MILES/HR, JUST VERY SLOW. MY SUBARU DIDN'T RESPONSE TO MY STEERING. INSTEAD OF MAKING A 90 DEGREE TURN, I WAS STUCK AT 30, 45 DEGREES ANGLE. TO AVOID HITTING SOMETHING, I TURNED OFF THE ENGINE. AFTER I RESTARTED THE ENGINE, I THEN CAN REGAIN MY CONTROL.

I WAS TRYING TO LEAVE A PARKING SPACE IN A WET SATURDAY NIGHT AT A NEIGHBORHOOD SHOPPING MALL. AFTER I BACKED UP THE CAR, I SWITCHED THE GEAR TO D TRYING TO LEAVE THE SPACE. HOWEVER, THE CAR SIMPLY DOESN'T MOVE. TO REGAIN CONTROL, I TURNED OFF THE ENGINE AND RESTARTED THE CAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT NOTICED TWO LARGE CRACKS IN THE WINDSHIELD. THE VEHICLE WAS DIAGNOSED AND REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND WOULD NOT COVER THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 6,000.

CAR HAD 2578 MILES ON IT. WHILE PARKED OVERNIGHT WINDSHIELD CRACKED STARTING AT PASSENGER SIDE AND EXTENDING APPROXIMATELY 12 INCHES TOWARD DRIVER SIDE. WENT IMMEDIATELY TO THE LOCAL SUBARU SERVICE DEPT AND THEY DETERMINED THAT IT WOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO NO EVIDENCE OF A STRIKE CAUSING IT. WINDSHIELD WAS REPLACED WITH SUBARU BRANDED PART 6 DAYS LATER THROUGH SUBARU BUT BY THEN THE CRACK HAD GROWN TO APPROX. 18INCHS.

SECOND WINDSHIELD CRACK IN 10 DAYS. WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE IN THE RAIN, I TURNED ON THE FRONT DE-FOGGER. APPROX 20 SECONDS LATER THE WINDSHIELD CRACKED FROM THE CENTER BOTTOM UP AND TOWARD THE DRIVERS SIDE. CRACK CURRENTLY EXTENDS UP ABOUT 8 INCHES. AS BEFORE, THERE WAS NO STRIKE THAT CAUSED THIS AND PAVEMENT WAS CLEAN AND SMOOTH. THIS WAS A NEW SUBARU BRANDED WINDSHIELD THAT WAS INSTALLED LITERALLY 4 DAYS AGO. GOING BACK IN TO THE SERVICE DEPT FOR REPAIR AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL TO STOP THE VEHICLE, IT ACCELERATED AND BRAKED INDEPENDENTLY. THE FAILURE RECURRED VARIOUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS UNDETERMINED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 2,300. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED.

VEHICLE PURCHASED NEW 2/25/2016. 1990 MILEAGE. CRACKS DEVELOPED WHILE DRIVING AT 70MPH. NO SOUNDS OF STONES HITTING GLASS AT ANY TIME DURING DRIVE. STOPPED TO WASH WINDSHIELD AT GAS STOP. DID NOT NOTICE CRACKS UNTIL LATER IN DRIVE. AC WAS TURNED ON & OFF DURING DRIVE, IF THAT MADE A DIFFERENCE. DRIVEN 500 MILES IN MODESTLY WARM SUNNY WEATHER IN 8 HRS THAT DAY,4/24/2016. CRACK PROGRESSED TO DRIVERS LINE OF SITE WITHIN ONE HOURS TIME. WAS INFORMED BY SUBARU DEALER NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY. REPAIR IS MY EXPENSE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WINDSHIELD PREMATURELY FAILED AND CRACKED WITHOUT IMPACT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND HAD A DEALER SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT TO INVESTIGATE HOW THE WINDSHIELD GLASS PREMATURELY CRACKED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,600.

AT 9AM ON APRIL 20, 2016, I WALKED PAST THE FRONT OF MY OUTBACK, PARKED WITH THE IGNITION OFF, IN MY GARAGE. THE REAR TAILGATE SUDDENLY BEEPED AND OPENED FULLY. I HAD NO KEY FOB OPENERS ON MY PERSON NOR WERE ANY OF MY TWO KEY FOBS WITHIN 20 FEET OF THE CAR AT THE TIME. ALL DOORS HAD BEEN IN A CLOSED POSITION, INCLUDING THE TAILGATE, BUT THE CAR WAS NOT LOCKED AT THE TIME. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE IF IT COULD HAPPEN WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION, OR IF IT OPENED WHILE PARKED UNDER A LOW CEILING OR OVERHEAD, OF IF IT SHOULD HAPPEN IN A PUBLIC SPACE WHERE AN INTRUDER WOULD THEN BE TEMPTED TO ENTER THE VEHICLE IN HOPES OF STEALING IT OR TO LIE IN WAIT FOR THE OPERATOR.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WHILE SITTING IN A PARKING AREA. THERE WAS A SMALL CHIP IN THE DEICER AREA WHERE THE CRACK BEGAN. HOWEVER, IT APPEARS THE STRIKE WAS MINOR AND WOULD HAVE BEEN EASILY REPAIRED BEFORE SPREADING. ALREADY HAD ONE CHIP REPAIRED FOR ANOTHER MINOR STRIKE. WINDSHIELD APPEARS TO BE EXCESSIVELY FRAGILE WHICH COULD RESULT IN A MAJOR SAFETY PROBLEM. DEALER IS WILLING TO REPAIR, BUT I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE QUALITY OF GLASS BEING USED IN THE SUBARU.

STEERING WONDERING FROM SIDE TO SIDE, CAN'NT HOLD IN CENTER OF LANE. ON HIGHWAY OR STREET

WINDSHIELD CRACKED WITHIN FIRST 150 MILES/48 HOURS OF OWNERSHIP OF THE NEW CAR. A VERY SMALL PIECE OF GRAVEL HIT THE WINDSHIELD NEAR THE PASSENGER SIDE WIPER BLADE. IT BARELY MADE ANY NOISE. ON ANY OTHER CAR I'VE OWNED, IT LIKELY WOULD NOT HAVE DAMAGED THE WINDSHIELD AT ALL. IT LEFT A STAR ON THE OUTBACK, WHICH TURNED INTO A FOOT LONG CRACK WITHIN 30 SECONDS. SITTING OVERNIGHT THE CRACK DOUBLED IN SIZE. A WINDSHIELD WHICH FAILS UNDER TYPICAL DAY-TO-DAY CONDITIONS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

I PURCHASED A NEW 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ON OCTOBER 6, 2015. THE TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM ACTIVATED ON JANUARY 25, 2016, EVEN THOUGH ALL TIRES HAD 35 PSI IN THEM AS RECOMMENDED. SINCE THAT DAY, THE SYSTEM HAS ACTIVATED 17 TIMES, AGAIN EVERY TIME THE TIRES HAD THE CORRECT PRESSURE IN THEM. THE SUBARU DEALER HAS HAD THE VEHICLE IN THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT FIVE TIMES FOR A TOTAL OF 14 DAYS. EVEN THOUGH THERE WAS A SINCERE EFFORT AT FIRST TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM, I AM NOW BEING TOLD THAT THIS IS A NORMAL CONDITION FOR MY VEHICLE AND THERE IS NOTHING ELSE THAT CAN BE DONE TO REPAIR THIS VEHICLE SAFETY WARNING SYSTEM--THAT I MUST ACCEPT IT AS IT IS. THIS IS VERY FRUSTRATING TO ME SINCE THE VEHICLE HAS ONLY 2,200 MILES ON IT. THE SYSTEM MAKES A BEEPING NOISE, THEN A SCREEN COMES ON THE DASH WITH AN EXCLAMATION SIGN AND A TPMS SYMBOL, THEN ANOTHER SCREEN COMES ON THAT SAYS CHECK OWNER'S MANUAL. THIS USUALLY HAPPENS IN THE MORNING AS I AM BACKING OUT OF MY GARAGE AND MY VEHICLE IS ENTERING THE STREET IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE. ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL, IF THERE REALLY WAS A LOW TIRE PRESSURE, THE LIGHT WOULD STAY ON UNTIL THE TIRE WAS BROUGHT UP TO PROPER PRESSURE. MY MESSAGE FINALLY GOES AWAY AND DOES NOT ACT LIKE THE MANUAL SAYS A LOW TIRE WOULD INDICATE.

STATIONARY VEHICLE ROLLS BACK SIGNIFICANTLY WHEN ON ANY INCLINE WHEN IN GEAR. IT HAS AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WHICH ROLLS IN DRIVE AND REVERSE. THE DEALER SAID ALL VEHICLES ROLL WHEN IN GEAR. I HAVE OWNED 13 VEHICLES IN MY LIFE, THE ONLY VEHICLES THAT WOULD ROLL IN GEAR WERE MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES WHICH IS WHY THE LAST 8 VEHICLES I HAVE OWNED HAVE BEEN AUTOMATIC. THE DEALER DENIED THIS WAS A PROBLEM BUT ON THE SUBARU OUTBACK FORUM, THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM FOR AT LEAST THE PAST TWO ITERATIONS OF THIS VEHICLE. THE FIRST OCCASION THE VEHICLE ROLLED BACK ON A GOOD SLOPE FOR AT LEAST THREE FEET AND THEN THE TIRES SPUN WHEN I DEPRESSED THE ACCELERATOR. THE HILL ASSIST FEATURE ON THIS CAR MAY HAVE BEEN OF ASSISTANCE BUT I WAS UNFAMILIAR WITH IT. THE HILL ASSIST FEATURE SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BE ENGAGED DURING NORMAL DRIVING. HAD THIS SLIPPAGE HAPPENED AT A STOPLIGHT, THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE ROLLED INTO ANOTHER AND CAUSED DAMAGE TO BOTH VEHICLES. ABSOLUTELY DANGEROUS AND UNACCEPTABLE. THE TRANSMISSION ACTS LIKE A MANUAL WITHOUT A CLUTCH.

STATIONARY VEHICLE ROLLS BACK SIGNIFICANTLY WHEN ON ANY INCLINE WHEN IN GEAR. IT HAS AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION WHICH ROLLS IN DRIVE AND REVERSE. THE DEALER SAID ALL VEHICLES ROLL WHEN IN GEAR. I HAVE OWNED 13 VEHICLES IN MY LIFE, THE ONLY VEHICLES THAT WOULD ROLL IN GEAR WERE MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES WHICH IS WHY THE LAST 8 VEHICLES I HAVE OWNED HAVE BEEN AUTOMATIC. THE DEALER DENIED THIS WAS A PROBLEM BUT ON THE SUBARU OUTBACK FORUM, THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM FOR AT LEAST THE PAST TWO ITERATIONS OF THIS VEHICLE. THE FIRST OCCASION THE VEHICLE ROLLED BACK ON A GOOD SLOPE FOR AT LEAST THREE FEET AND THEN THE TIRES SPUN WHEN I DEPRESSED THE ACCELERATOR. THE HILL ASSIST FEATURE ON THIS CAR MAY HAVE BEEN OF ASSISTANCE BUT I WAS UNFAMILIAR WITH IT. THE HILL ASSIST FEATURE SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BE ENGAGED DURING NORMAL DRIVING. HAD THIS SLIPPAGE HAPPENED AT A STOPLIGHT, THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE ROLLED INTO ANOTHER AND CAUSED DAMAGE TO BOTH VEHICLES. ABSOLUTELY DANGEROUS AND UNACCEPTABLE. THE TRANSMISSION ACTS LIKE A MANUAL WITHOUT A CLUTCH.

I BOUGHT A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ON MARCH 5TH, 2016. AFTER TWO WEEKS I TOOK A TRIP DOWN TO ATLANTA AND BACK TO KNOXVILLE, TN. I WAS DRIVING ON I-75 AND GOING 70MPH. I HEARD NO SOUND NOR DID I SEE A ROCK OR DEBRIS HIT MY WINDSHIELD, BUT ALL OF A SUDDEN I SAW A CRACK APPEAR. WITHIN AN HOUR OF HOME THIS CRACK GREW FROM ABOUT 3 INCHES TO 5 INCHES. I CALLED SUBARU OF AMERICA AND ALL THEY TOLD ME WAS 'CRACKS HAPPEN.'

THE DAY AFTER DRIVING THE NEW CAR HOME FROM THE DEALERSHIP, A CRACK APPROXIMATELY 12 INCHES IN LENGTH APPEARED IN THE WINDSHIELD. THE CRACK WAS NOT NOTICED UNTIL THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY AND HAD NOT MOVED FOR ABOUT 24 HOURS. THE CRACK STARTED AT THE EXTREME EDGE OF THE WINDSHIELD ON THE PASSENGER SIDE TOWARD THE TOP AND CURVED DOWN.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE LEFTIST LANE (FOUR-LANE IN TOTAL) OF A BUSY HIGHWAY, I SUDDENLY FELT THAT MY CAR LOST BALANCE AND RAN TOWARD/ALONG THE GUARDRAIL IN THE MIDDLE OF HIGHWAY, WHICH SLOWED MY CAR IN SEVERAL SECONDS AND SAVED MY LIFE. LATER I FOUND THAT MY LEFT FRONT WHEEL WAS TOTALLY GONE (NOT ONLY THE TIRE, BUT ALSO THE WHOLE WHEEL SYSTEM). SEE MY PHOTOS TAKEN ON THE SCENE. IT WAS A CLEAR DAY WITH GREAT VISIBILITY AND THERE WERE MANY CARS ON THE HIGHWAY. THE ROAD WAS DRY, STRAIGHT AND SMOOTH, WITH ONLY GUARDRAILS IN THE MIDDLE OF HIGHWAY AND NO CONCRETE DIVIDENDS. THERE WAS NOTHING ON THE ROAD THAT I CAN HIT FIRST BEFORE THE WHEEL CAME OFF. THE AIRBAG WAS NOT ON. I DID NOTHING WRONG (NO CITATION AND TICKET). THIS IS A BRAND NEW CAR I BOUGHT JUST 20 DAYS AGO. HOW COULD A BRAND NEW CAR LOSE ONE WHEEL WHILE DRIVING WITHIN 20 DAYS OF PURCHASE? THIS MIGHT INDICATE A MECHANICAL PROBLEM OR A DEFECT WITH THE CAR. OF COURSE, SUBARU DENIED NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. FOR A TERRIBLE ACCIDENT LIKE THIS, I COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED. A THOROUGH INVESTIGATION WILL HELP TO SAVE LIVES.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE INFORMATION ON THE TOWING LABEL WAS INCORRECT, STATING THAT THE VEHICLE COULD TOW 3,000 LBS. THE DEALER CONFIRMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO TOW ONLY 2,000 LBS. FOR A HITCH. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.

WHEN DRIVING ABOUT 60MPH ON A SMOOTH FLAT HIGHWAY, A SMALL CLICK WAS HEARD. DIDN'T THINK ANYTHING OF IT AT FIRST. AFTER ABOUT 10 MORE MINUTES OF DRIVING I HEARD A LOUD POP. A 8 INCH VERTICAL CRACK STARTED ON THE WINDSHIELD. IT STARTED LOW, BY THE WIPERS, AROUND THE MID-LINE OF THE WINDSHIELD. THE CRACK HAS CONTINUALLY GROWN AND IS NOW RUNNING HORIZONTALLY ACROSS THE DRIVER-SIDE.

CRACK IN WINDSHIELD HAD CRACKS APPEAR IN WINDSHIELD ON 2 SEPARATE DAYS IN JAN. 2016 . HAD THE WINDSHIELD REPLACED IN MID JAN BY SUBARU DEALER. ON FEB 25 WHILE DRIVING ON I-95 IN GA. ANOTHER CRACK APPEARED IN NEW WINDSHIELD WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE . WE WERE DRIVING ABOUT 70 MPH AT ABOUT 70 MPH

WHILE THE CAR WAS GARAGED WITH THE GARAGE DOOR CLOSED, IT DEVELOPED AT ROUGHLY 12" CRACK RUNNING FROM THE RIGHT (PASSENGER SIDE) PILLAR. THERE IS NO ROCK STRIKE OR OTHER IMPACT, NOR HAD THERE BEEN ONE PRIOR TO IT BEING GARAGED. IT DEVELOPED OVERNIGHT.

BRIDGESTONE DUELER H/P SPORT AS 225/60R18 100H M&S D97WBZ. THESE ARE VERY DANGEROUS TIRES THAT CAME WITH BRAND NEW SUBARU. TERRIBLE ICE/SNOW TRACTION. SHOULD BE BETTER QUALITY ON AWD CAR. HAD TO BUY NEW MICHELINS WITH 55 MILES ON CAR.

DURING A RECENT TRIP TO FLORIDA, THE FRONT WINDSHIELD ON MY NEW 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK DEVELOPED OVER HALF A DOZEN SMALL PITS IN THE EXTERIOR GLASS SURFACE FROM CONTACT WITH VERY TINY PEBBLES. THE TINY PEBBLE STRIKES SHOULD NOT HAVE CAUSED SUCH PITS BASED ON MY EXTENSIVE DRIVING EXPERIENCE. I BELIEVE THERE TO BE A DEFECT IN THE GLASS ITSELF, MAKING IT UNUSUALLY BRITTLE. THE PEBBLE STRIKES OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING AT LOW SPEEDS ON HIGHWAY OFF RAMPS. THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE DURING THE PEBBLE STRIKES, WHICH TOOK PLACE OVER SEVERAL DAYS OF DRIVING, RANGED FROM 60 TO 85 DEGREES F. THE DEALER EXAMINED THE WINDSHIELD AND SAID THERE WAS NOTHING INFERIOR ABOUT IT.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND HEARD THE WINDOW CRACK (POSSIBLY A SMALL PEBBLE, BUT NOT A ROCK SOUND) AND SAW A CRACK ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW THAT EXTENDED TO NEAR THE LANE DEPARTURE SYSTEM. I DISABLE THE LANE DEPARTURE SYSTEM OUT OF CAUTION. WHEN I STOPPED I FOUND A TINY PIT LIKELY FROM A SMALL ROCK/PEBBLE NEAR THE EDGE OF THE WINDSHIELD. IT SEEMS LIKE IT FORMED A CRACK VERY EASILY WITH NO NOTICEABLE IMPACT..

TAKATA RECALL-WANTED TO PURCHASE A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6L, AND AFTER MULTIPLE INQUIRIES, FINALLY WAS TOLD THAT TAKATA AIRBAGS STILL BEING USED IN THE PASSENGER FRONT SEAT WHEREAS OTHER MANUFACTURERS' AIRBAGS ARE NOW BEING USED IN DRIVERS AND SIDE CURTAIN PARTS OF THE AUTO. SO PASSENGER FRONT SEATS ARE STILL VULNERABLE. WE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THIS MIX OF AIRBAG MANUFACTURERS IS KNOWN TO ALL CONSUMERS SO THEY KNOW THE RISK THEY ARE PURCHASING. WE DECLINED TO BUY THE SUBARU OUTBACK THIS YEAR UNTIL WE FIND A MANUFACTURER WHO USES NO TAKATA AIRBAGS.

2016 SUBARU OUTBACK WHILE DRIVING CAR ON I-95 , NOTICED 4-4 IN. CRACK IN LOWER DRIVER SIDE WINDSHIELD ,AFTER INVESTIGATING NOTICED SMALL PIT SIZE OF PENCIL POINT WHERE THE CRACK STARTED. CRACK KEPT GROWING. NEXT DAY CONTINUED MY TRIP ON I-95 , ABOUT 3 HRS LATER ANOTHER CRACK APPEARED IN THE UPPER CENTER OF THE WINDSHIELD , AFTER INVESTIGATING NOTICED SMALL PIT THE SIZE OF PENCIL POINT WHERE THE CRACK STARTED. SAME AS FIRST CRACK I DID NOT NOTICE ANY DEBRIS HITTING THE WINDSHIELD . I RESEARCHED ON THE INTERNET AND FOUND NUMEROUS SIMILAR INCIDENTS WITH SUBARU OUTBACKS. I BELIEVE THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE WITH THE GLASS IN THE WINDSHIELD

DRIVING IN THE CENTER OF MY LANE ON A WET HIGHWAY. CRUISE CONTROL ON AT 65 MPH. LANE SWAY ON. THE CAR ACTED AS IF THE LANE SWAY ACTIVATED AND GAVE A STRONG STEERING WHEEL BUMP LIKE IT DOES IF YOU ARE CLOSE TO THE SIDE ROAD STRIPE. I WAS DEAD CENTER IN MY LANE, AND THERE WAS NO REASON FOR IT TO BUMP THE STEERING. IT DID THIS TO ME THREE TIMES WITHIN A TEN MILE DRIVE. AFTER THE THIRD TIME I TURNED THE LANE SWAY OFF AND WAS SOON DRIVING IN TOWN AND IT DID NOT DO IT AGAIN. MY WIFE SAYS SOMETIMES WHILE COMING TO A STOP AT A LIGHT, THE CAR WILL PULL VERY HARD AND ABRUPTLY TO THE LEFT. THE CAR HAS 3400 MILES ON IT, SO THERE SHOULD BE NOTHING WRONG WITH BRAKE PADS OR ROTORS.

I JUST PICKED UP AND DROVE HOME. THE DRIVER MIRROR ALWAYS DETECTED - EVERY TIME. THE PASSENGER SIDE WOULD NOT ALWAYS DETECT , MAYBE MISSING 20-25%,EVEN SOME LARGE TRUCKS, I DID BRING BACK TO DEALER TWICE BUT THEY SAID CAN NOT DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. THAT MADE ME NERVOUS IN THAT "THE TECHNOLOGY MIGHT LEAD TO AN ACCIDENT ,NOW THE CAR WAS 3200 MILES AND NOT WORK AT ALL WHEN I DROVE FROM MY HOUSE TO WORK THIS MORNING FROM RENTON TO REDMOND ON 405 WITH AVERAGE 50 MILE PER HOURS

I WAS IN A STORE PARKING LOT. I DROVE APPROX. 2 BLOCKS AND CAME TO A FULL STOP WHERE THERE WAS A PEDESTRIAN CROSSING. I ACCELERATED MAKING A LEFT TURN AND BEGAN CLIMBING A SMALL HILL TO EXIT THE PARKING AREA. I TRAVELED APPROXIMATELY 20 FEET AND MY CAR LOST ACCELERATION. I PLACED MY FOOT ON THE GAS PEDAL AND PRESSED IT DOWN APPROX. 50 PERCENT. WHILE DOING SO, I DID NOT HEAR THE ENGINE RACING. THE SPEEDOMETER REGISTERED 2 MILES PER HOUR. I BRAKED, CAME TO A FULL STOP AND TOOK MY CAR OUT OF GEAR. I MOVED IT BACK TO DRIVE AND THE CAR RESPONDED NORMALLY.

MY CAR REQUIRED 2 REPAIRS 5 WEEKS APART OF THE WIRING BUNDLE CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS AND LOW OIL LEVEL SENSOR DUE TO A CRITTER CHEWING THE BUNDLE WHILE IT WAS PARKED. I NOW HAVE BOUNCE LAUNDRY SHEETS STUFFED AROUND THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AT THE SUGGESTION OF THE DEALER; THEY SEE THIS OFTEN FROM CARS OUT OF THE MOUNTAINS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HESITATED TO ACCELERATE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 112.

NON COLLISION OR OTHER VEHICLE DAMAGE CRACK IN WINDSHIELD. A CRACK APPEARED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE WINDSHIELD. ACCORDING TO OWNER WEBSITE THIS IS AN ONGOING PROBLEM OF WHICH SUBARU IS AWARE FOR THE 2015 AND 2016 MODEL YEARS. THEY OCCASIONALLY COVER THE REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY CLAIMING THEY DO SO AS A "COURTESY" CAR WAS STATIONARY, PARKED IN GARAGE ENGINE OFF. WINDSHIELD JUST CRACKED

I JUST PURCHASED A 2016 OB 2.5I PREMIUM. I HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR A WEEK AND A HALF. ON FRIDAY I DECIDED TO WASH MY CAR FOR THE FIRST TIME. I STARTED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE, RAISED THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER, WENT AROUND THE FRONT OF THE CAR AND RAISED THE PASSENGER SIDE WIPER. I THEN WASHED AROUND THE CAR. WHEN I WENT TO PUT THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER DOWN IT HIT THE PASSENGER SIDE WIPER AND SLAPPED IT DOWN ONTO THE WINDSHIELD. AN HOUR LATER I NOTICED A CRACK COMING FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE. I DID THE "PEN TEST" AND FOUND A SMALL DEPRESSION UNDER THE WIPER. NO ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD, IT WOULD HAVE HAD TO PASS THROUGH THE WIPER. THATS IMPOSSIBLE. BECAUSE I WAS JUST FREAKING AMAZED THAT IT COULD OF HAPPENED I RAISED THE PASSENGER WIPER AND LET IT COME DOWN ON THE WINDSHIELD TO SEE WHAT WOULD HAPPEN. IT PUT A SECOND CRACK IN THE WINDSHIELD, NOT ONE EMANATING FROM THE FIRST BUT A WHOLE NEW CRACK. IM TAKING IT TO MY DEALER TOMORROW.